'''Gero Onsen''' (___C____) [http://www.gero-spa.or.jp/english/] is a hot spring town in Gifu prefecture, Japan.

Understand

One of Japan's Three Famous Springs (___{_O____ ''Nihon Sanmeisen''), not to be confused with Japan's Three Great Springs and several other competing variants, Gero Onsen is classic case of how overdevelopment can ruin what must once have been a beautiful spot. The town's hot springs made their first appearance in print in the Engi Era (901-923), but the present incarnation is packed full of colossal identikit concrete hotels, dubious bars advertising nude shows and Filipina prostitutes soliciting passersby from parking lots. Visitor in search of a quieter experience would do well to select one of the many hot springs hamlets on either side of the town instead, or head to the Oku-Hida Onsen Villages instead.

And there's one more thing that has changed for the worse over the years: the characters used for ''Gero'' actually mean just "lower bath", but in modern Japanese ''gero'' is also a common slang word for "vomit".

Get in

By train

Gero Onsen's train station, '''Gero''', is located on the '''JR Takayama Line'''.

The easiest method of reaching Gero Onsen is to take a shinkansen bullet train to Nagoya and transfer there to the '''Wide View Hida''' limited express train. From Tokyo the run takes about 3 1/2 hours via ''Nozomi'' at a cost of ¥13500. The Japan Rail Pass is NOT valid for Nozomi trains; using the ''Hikari'' service will take about four hours, including transfer time.

Gero is a 2 1/2 hour ride from Kyoto using the ''Nozomi'' to Nagoya (¥8880).

If you take local trains from Nagoya, the ride will take approximately three hours, with transfers required at Gifu and Mino-Ota, at a cost of ¥2210.

If you decide to take all local trains from Tokyo (i.e. while using a Seishun 18 Ticket), you will need to depart Tokyo very early in the morning, or stay over at an intermediate stop, since the ride to Gero will take about nine hours. A 7:00 departure from Tokyo will have you arriving in Gero after 16:00. (Without the Seishun 18 ticket this will cost ¥7670.)

Whatever method you choose, the views of the valley and the Hida River below as you approach Gero station are spectacular.

Get around

Gero Onsen can be covered on foot, although if you have much luggage you'll want a taxi or arrange a pickup with your lodgings — the train station lies on the south side of the river, while most hotels are across the long bridge to the north.

See

There are nice mountain views on the way in to Gero, a few distinctly ordinary temples, and one attraction:

  • '''Gassho Village''' (______ ''Gassh?-mura''). A traditional-style village with thatched-roof ''gassh?-zukuri'' (hands in prayer) houses. At least one house is authentic, having been constructed in the mid-1800s, and later relocated here to escape being submerged behind a dam. You can paint pottery and make paper yourself, and they will mail your handiwork back to you for an additional fee. There are displays of traditional festivals, and a museum of guardian-dog statues (____) used at shrines. Admission is ¥800. To get there from the station, take a 5 minute/¥150 bus ride (buses run about once per hour), taxi for the base fare, about ¥650, or walk, about 20 minutes.
  • Do

    As you'd expect in a hot spring town, the major attraction in Gero is to soak in hot springs. An easy way to sample a number of them is to buy the '''Yu-meguri Tegata''' (___________`) pass, a wooden amulet sold all over Gero. This will get you into 3 hot springs of your choice from a choice of over 20 for the flat price of ¥1200, which can be used up at your own pace as you'll get a stamp each time you visit.

  • '''Foot baths''' (____ ''ashiyu'') are popular in Gero, as the waters are reputed to have curative properties. True to the name, you just take off your shoes and sit down with your feet in the water. A number of free foot baths can be found around town, including the decidedly tacky '''Venus Foot Bath''' in front of the Shirasagi Hotel — no prizes for guessing what the statue in the middle is doing.
  • A '''giant hot water pool''' (___V___C ''notenburo'') can be found to the west side of the bridge, with access via the south side. Note that there are no facilities to speak of and the bathing area is mixed and clearly visible to passersby on the bridge above, but admission is also free so you get what you pay for.
  • Gero is also quite popular for sightseeing of seasonal cherry blossoms and fall leave colors due to its mountainous location.

    Buy

    The most popular souvenir from Gero (and the Hida region in general) is the sarubobo[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sarubobo], a small hooded red doll.

    Eat

    The tomato bowl is a known favorite in several eating establishments throughout the town.

    Drink

    Sleep

  • '''Izumi-s?''' (________). Yunoshima 212, tel. 0576-25-3160. A pleasant surprise, this new lodge looks unprepossessing from the outside but is traditionally decorated on the inside and has some small but nice ''rotenburo'' outdoor baths too. The downside is the location at the far western edge of town, a fair 15-minute hike on foot from the station. Room and full board from ¥8000 per night per person.
  • '''Suimeikan''' (______). Tel. 0576-25-2800, [http://www.suimeikan.co.jp/suimeikan/English/index.jsp]. This large upscale ryokan is a 3-minute walk from the station. With various restaurants, a large souvenir shop, and athletic facilities, it may not be necessary to leave the hotel to visit the town. There are three onsens including one rotenburo. This hotel has conference facilities.
  • Contact

  • Gero's small '''tourist office''', next to the station, can help you book if you arrive with no reservation.
  • Get out