'''Joao Pessoa'''[http://www.joaopessoa.pb.gov.br/], the capital of Paraiba, is a city on the northeast coast of Brazil.
Understand
Joao Pessoa is, for its sheer size, an undiscovered paradise: There are few foreigners and lots to do.
History
Joao Pessoa is one of the oldest cities in Brazil, dating back to 1585. From 1634 to 1654 it was controlled by the Dutch.
Orientation
The city center grids out on a hill between a lake (''lagoa'') and the river. Some 7 kilometers to the east, along ''Presidente Epitacio Pessoa'', are the beaches of ''Tambau'' (to the left as you hit the beach) and ''Cabo Branco'' (to the right), where most of the tourist infrastructure is found. The landmark and point of reference here is the ''Tropical Hotel Tambau'' and the ''feirinha'' (handicraft market) in front of it. Further north are the less attractive ''Manaira'', and then the pleasant but rather deserted ''Bessa''. The beachfront avenue receives several names: ''Avenida Cabo Branco'', ''Avenida Almirante Tamandare'' and ''Avenida Joao Mauricio''.
Get in
By plane
Airport some 25 km out of town. Taxi to the city R$ 40, negiotiated. You might find the much bigger airport of Recife more convenient, especially for international flights. Taxi R$ 160, negotiated.
By bus
Joao Pessoa's long-distance bus station is in spot in the center. To get to the beach of ''Tambau'', cross the road and enter the urban bus terminal to catch number 510 or 513 ''Tambau''. Taxi abot R$ 20.
To Recife every hour by '''Bomfim''', 2 hours, R$ 20-25.
To Campina Grande by '''Real Bus''' at least once an hour from 5 AM to 8 PM, R$ 17.
See
The centre of Joao Pessoa is worth a days stroll for its historical building, a growing number of which are being restored. There are numerous signs indicating the tourist trail:
One of nicest churches in all of Brazil, the '''Igreja do Sao Francisco''', built from 1589 to 1779, is on the north end of the city center. Its mixture of architectural styles is a fascinating reflection of the colonial empires at the time: the walls of the exterior courtyard, done in Portuguese ''azulejo'' tiling, are topped by curiously oriental looking lion statues, while the church itself is a mixture of Portuguese, Dutch, and French styles and the dome shows influence from Goa. The ceiling features a 40 meter wide mural, and the interior is inhabited by lots of bats.
The '''Ladeira de Sao Francisco''' leads westward and downhill from the church, and affords a magnificent view of the Sanhaua River and surrounding lush tropical forest. Just down the hill is the '''Casa da Polvora''', a small historical museum.
Further down is '''Praca Antenor Navarro''', currently the best restored cluster of colonial architecture, with the old '''Hotel Globo''' around the corner.
Uphill from the railway station is the old main square with its massive former post office, the ''Teatro Santa Rosa'' and the ''Policia Militar'' headquarters.
Pretty much on top of the city is ''Praca Joao Pessoa'', with its government buildings.
'''Ponta do Seixas''' is the easternmost point in the Americas, at 34°47'38" west longitude and 7°09'28" south latitude. There is a monument to mark the spot, and it has a sweeping view of the Atlantic. Ponta do Seixas is south of Cabo Branco beach, and accessible by city bus.
Taxi.
Do
Joao Pessoa is blessed with one of the most attractive urban beaches of Brazil: '''Tambau''' and its continuation '''Cabo Branco''' to the south. Large stretches are virtually deserted, and you can walk all the way to ''Ponta das Seixas''.
From the north end of the ''Cabo Branco'' beach, there are a number of boats that will take you out to '''Picaozinho''' (a reef with good snorkelling) or '''Areia Vermelha''' (a sandy patch offshore) for about R$ 25. Both destinations depend on low tide, so hours vary greatly. Drinks and snacks are sold on the boats.
Buy
In ''Tambau'' there are several handicraft spots, notably the ''feirinha'' and some stall up ''Rua Sen Rui Carneiro''.
Eat
For a quick bite, there are several hamburger stands around the lagoon.
'''Natural''', Rua Rodrigues de Aquino 177. Good health food and a nice setting as well.
'''[http://www.pontaldocabo.com.br Pontal do Cabo Bar & Restaurant]'''The visual best of the seafront of the Cabo Branco, live music and screen with nacional and international clips. Try the Delicious Shrimp. Cabo Branco Street, 4912. Tel: (55) (83) 3247-4336.
'''Bahamas Restaurant''' on the beach in ''Tambau''.
'''Mundial Lanches''', in front of ''Hotel Tropical'', Tambau. Hot dogs and other quickies.
Vale do Sabugi. ua Carlos Alverga, Tambau. nter from the beach front near Portugal Flat. unch. uffet with grilled meats R$ 6.
Mangai. venida General Edson Ramalho 696, Manaira. ll day. $ 30 per kilo. Large buffet of reional foods.
Drink
The densest concentration of nightlife is just behind the ''feirinha'' in ''Tambau'':
Emporio. Intimate and lively. Both gay and straight.
'''Jacares Bar''', is one of several shacks on the riverfront where weekend sunsets are accompanied with Ravel's Bolero live on a saxophone.
'''Parque Solon de Lucena''' is the official name of the greenery surrounding the ''Lagoa''. Many shacks serve drinks and snacks at rock-bottom prices. Quite a party on Sundays.
Daytime drinking is in any of the string of shacks along the beach promenade of ''Tambau'' and ''Cabo Branco''. A couple of these have their specialties:
GiraMundo. v Almirante Tamandare. n front of Lion creperie. venings. arge beer R$ 4, sausage platter R$ 13. German style sausages with real mustards are the specialty. Swiss owner.
Sleep
The 5 kilometre beachfront of ''Cabo Branco'' and ''Tambau'' is dotted with hotels of all kinds, although rock-bottom budget options are few. Off peak discount can reach 40%. Bargain hard.
Budget
Mar Azul Hotel Pousada . v. Joao
Mauricio 315, Manaira" directions="Just past Hotel VerdeGreen, 300 m from Tropical Tambau" phone="+55 83 3226 2660" email="" fax="" url="" checkin="" checkout="" price="Single/Double R$ 50, triple R$ 60">Beachfront on a less attractive part of the beach. Small apartments with cooking facilities, tv and fan. No breakfast.</sleep>
Pousada Canta Mare . ua Osorio Paes 60. blocks inland from Tropical Tambau. 55 83 3247 1047. ingle R$ 40.
Pousada Alternativa. ua Antonio Lira 591, Tambau. ne block from the beach. 55 83 9922 8303. lia_564@hotmail.com. ouble R$ 40. No breakfast, shared bathroom. Kitchen facilities. Also has larger rooms
Mid-range
'''Hotel Aurora''', Praca Joao Pessoa, 51 ? Centro. Good location.
'''[http://www.hotelguarani.com.br Guarany Hotel]''' Rua Almeida Barreto 181, Centro, +55 83 21068787 (reservas@hotelguarani.com.br, fax: +55 83 21068787), Check in: 12:00; Check out: 12:00. R$ 72.
'''[http://www.hoteljr.com.br J. R. Hotel]''' Rua Rodrigues Chaves 87 Trincheiras, centre, +55 83 21068700 (reservas@hoteljr.com.br, fax: +55 83 21068700), Check in: 12:00; Check out: 12:00. R$ 83.
Splurge
Tropical Hotel Tambau. ttp://www.tropicaltambau.com.br/. ingle R$ 200.
Stay safe
Cope
<listing name="Lavamatic" alt="" directions="Right off Rua Sen. Rui Carneiro, one block from the beach" address="Rua Carlos Alverga 37, Tambau" phone="+55 83 3247 3737" email="" fax="" url="" hours="Mon-Sat 8 AM - 6 PM" price="Wash and dry 4 kg R$ 25">Same day service if you come in the morning.</listing>
Internet at the ''Centro Turistico Tambau'', R$ 3/hour. At the ice cream bar ''Pigelatti'', R$ 5/hour. Next to ''Pousada Gameleira'', R$ 2/hour.
Get out
Tambaba is famed as the first regulated nudism beach in northeastern Brazil. 40 km to the south on Highway PB-008.