'''Mandalay''' [http://www.mandalaycity.net] is the second largest city (after Yangon), and a former capital of Myanmar. The city is the economic and religious hub of upper Myanmar. The city is centred around the Royal Palace, and has wide lanes filled with bicycles and motorcycles. Mandalay is known for its millionaires, its monks (half of the country's monks reside in Mandalay and surrounding areas), and its cultural diversity.
Understand
History
Mandalay, the very name evokes the splendors of the Burma of old! But, most people will be surprised to learn that Mandalay is not an old city, not even a medieval one, but rather a new city that was created by King Mingdon Min of Burma in 1857 as the new capital of the kingdom of Ava. Only two Burmese kings ruled from there, King Mingdon and King Thibaw, before the British conquest of Upper Burma in 1885. History records it as a city of splendor between 1858 and 1885 but most of the magnificence is gone, destroyed by the fire that consumes wooden structures, by the cavalier attitudes of its colonial rulers, and by intensive bombing by the allies during the reconquest of Burma in the Second World War. The city, neatly planned with its lettered roads and numbered streets, is a British creation. The once magnificent Royal Palace and the great Atumashi (incomparable) pagoda, King Mingdon Min's finest creations, are modern reconstructions supervised by the ruling Military junta with the help of forced labor. Today, Mandalay lies at the end of the Lashio Road and it is, by Burmese standards, relatively prosperous as a center for trade with China and as a center for the growing trade with India.
People
Mandalay is ethnically diverse, with the Bamar (Burmans) forming a slight majority. In recent years, there has been a major influx of Chinese from Mainland China, and the Chinese (both recent migrants and colonial-era immigrants) form 30 to 40% of the population. Their influence is seen in the China-style glass buildings throughout the city. Other prevalent ethnic groups include the Shan, who are ethnically and linguistically related to the Thais and Laotians, and the Karen (Kayin). There is a sizable ethnic Indian population, including Nepalis and Sikhs.
Climate
Mandalay has a semi-tropical climate. Winter (which is dry and cold) lasts from November to February, and summer lasts from March to May. Because Mandalay is in the central dry zone, it receives far less rain than the more tropical south.
Get in
By plane
Mandalay International Airport, a gleaming modern facility, serves the area with flights to most places in Myanmar and some international flights (Air Mandalay flies into, but not out of, Mandalay twice a week from Chiang Mai). There are also 3 flights weekly to and from Kunming on MU2029 for about RMB2000 one way. The airport is far from the city, 45km on a modern highway (with a few hiccups). Expect to pay US$8 to downtown Mandalay, US$6 from downtown Mandalay, and US$30 to/from Pyin U Lwin.
By train
'''From Yangon'''There are several trains daily from Yangon. While the tracks are old and, in some cases, the carriages may be old, the fifteen hour journey is quite pleasant. Note that in Fall of 2006 all trains were rescheduled to travel during the day (so that trains do not cross Pyinmana in the dark) but at least one train (the privately managed Dagon Mann Express) now runs overnight. Fares range from about US$15 (ordinary class/hard seat) to US$50 (Air Conditioned Sleeper on the Dagon Mann Express).
'''From Lashio, Hsipaw, and Pwin U Lwin''' There are two trains daily from Pyin U Lwin (US$4/$2) and one from Lashio via Hsipaw and Pwin U Lwin (US$9/3 from Hsipaw). These trains are slow, crowded, but fascinating. The Pyin U Lwin - Hsipaw section includes the famous Gokteik Viaduct, a feat of Raj ingenuity (and American construction!).
'''From Myitkyina''' This twenty-four hour journey is on old rolling stock and even older tracks so expect it to be bumpy!
Get around
Taxis are relatively inexpensive and are excellent for travelling around Mandalay.
Many sights are centred around Mandalay Hill, which makes foot-walking feasible in that area.
The best and cheapest way to see the city is by bicycle, as traffic isn't as heavy as in other Asian cities.
See
Religious sites
'''Maha Myat Muni Paya''' (Burmese: ''ma-ha myah mu-ni pei-ya'') [http://www.mahamunipagoda.org.mm] is Myanmar's second holiest pilgrimage site. It is a 4-metre high Buddha statue, made of gold and decorated with precious jewels. The image was brought from Rakhine State, southeast of Mandalay.
'''Shwe Kyi Myin Paya''' (Burmese: ''shui ji myin pei-ya'') was built in the 1st century, by Prince Min Shin Saw.
'''Sandamuni Paya''' (Burmese: ''san-da-mu-ni pei-ya''), located at the foot of Mandalay Hill, is similar to Kuthodaw Paya, an adjacent site. Sandamuni contains the world's largest iron Buddha image.
'''Kuthodaw Paya''' (Burmese: ''ku-tho-dau pei-ya'') is site of the world's largest book, located at the foot of Mandalay Hill. Built by King Mingdon in the 1800s, 729 white stupas within the complex contain the complete text of the Tripitaka, Theravada Buddhism's most sacred text. A very friendly half-German half-Burmese guide called Cherry, normally in the tea-house next door, can provide an informative and interesting tour.
'''Mandalay Hill''' (Burmese: ''man-da-lei thaonh'') is a 230-metre hill located near Mandalay. Along its path are several monasteries and temples. At its top are famous pagodas and temples.
Miscellaneous sites
'''Royal Palace''' (Burmese: ''man-da-lei nan-dau'') is a walled city within Mandalay. It was built in 1861 by King Mindon, to fulfill a prophecy. The palace, although destroyed in WWI, was renovated, and was renovated recently. It was renovated using forced labour, and locals may advise you not to visit the place. The palace contains several pavilions and chambers. Those who enter from the "foreigners-only gate" should expect to fill out an extensive and probing form. However, to avoid such a form, use the "locals-only gate" (''myao-pao'') and pay bribes to the army officials there.
Do
'''Mandalay Hill''' In the old days you had to climb Mandalay Hill on foot, a long and grueling journey. Nowadays visitors can take a pick-up for a handfull of kyats and hang on to their dear lives (downhill is even scarier). The pick-ups leave every twenty minutes and bring you to the foot of the hill pagoda, where an entry fee of US$3 is collected and footwear is prohibited. The pagode offers nice views of Mandalay and the surrounding plains.
Buy
'''Zegyo Market''' (Burmese: ''zei-gyo'') is a collection of bazaar street markets located near the city centre.
Eat
'''Shan cuisine''' is popular in Mandalay, because of a large Shan minority. Shan dishes usually include fermented pastes, vegetables, and meats.
'''Muslim Chinese noodles''' (pronounced ''pan-THEI-kao-sweh'') are famous in Mandalay and surrounding hills. Consisting of flat thin noodles mixed with an array of spices, chili, and chicken, they are delectable. Typically, noodle shops owned by Muslim Chinese (known locally as ''panthei'', or "little flowers"), which are recognisable by bilingual Arabic and Chinese signs, sell this dish.
'''Htou moun''' (pronounced ''to-moh'') is a traditional Burmese dessert sold only in Mandalay. Two chains specialise in htou moun. Beware, it contains a lot of oil and is extremely sweet. It is gelatin-like in texture.
Too Too Myanmar Cuisine. 8th. street, between 74th. street and 75th. street. Supposedly has the best Burmese food in whole Mandalay.
Drink
Sleep
Mandalay has several tourist-friendly accommodations. Many hotels face the Royal Palace.
Budget
Peacock Lodge. 61st St., Mandalay. 0. Terrific homestay B&B @ 20 USD per night, with very friendly family staff. A little bit out of the center, also has a bike rental.
Mid-range
'''Sedona Mandalay''', No. 1, Junction of 26th & 66th Street, [http://www.sedonahotels.com.sg/oh_mya_ma_loc.asp] is a Singaporean-owned hotel built blending traditional Burmese and modern architecture that faces the Royal Palace and Mandalay Hill.
'''Mandalay Hill Resort''', No.9, Kwin (416.B),10th Street, [http://www.mandalayhillresorthotel.com] is an 8-storey hotel located at the foot of Mandalay Hill, with many modern amenities including an international standard spa.
'''Mandalay Swan Hotel''' No 44-B, 26th street, Between 66th & 68th streets [http://www.mandalayswanhotel.com]
'''Great Wall Hotel''', Block 901, 78th road, between 42 Street and Theikpan Street, Mandalay-Yangon Highway, Maha Aung Myay township [http://www.greatwall-hotel.com]
'''Zegyo Hotel''', 84th street, between 27th and 28th streets, next to Zegyo market. Great location, clean rooms.
Stay safe
Mandalay is a haven for drug kingpins and is a main trading centre of illicit drugs. In 2005, an explosion occurred at Zegyo Market. Always be cautious, and attempt to keep a low-profile as a tourist. That being said, Mandalay is generally a very safe city.
Get out
Amarapura (Pyi) - famous for its ancient sights, and for U Bein bridge, the world's longest teak bridge.
Maymyo (Pyin U Lwin) - former British hill station in a lush alpine forest. The small town contains a variety of colonial relics, and is most famous for its botanical gardens (modelled on England's Kew Gardens). Also known for the Defence Services Academy, the top-ranked military academy in Myanmar.
Mingun - best known for the Mingun Bell (one of the largest bells in the world), is a boat ride away.
Sagaing (to the east) - has many Buddhist temples and monasteries, especially on Sagaing Hill.