Since being "discovered" as a tourist destination in the 1970s, Virgin Gorda is still not over-commercialized. It is reminiscent of Saint John (Virgin Islands) before the designer shoe and handbag stores arrived. With only a few resorts and a sprinkling of villas, it has a pleasing intimacy. The passengers you meet on the nine-seat plane are likely to show up at the next table at dinner. The local people are well educated, friendly and caring, family oriented and remarkably aware of their place in the world. As elsewhere in the BVI, English is spoken, with a more or less strong accent. It is courteous to begin a conversation — even a brief question — with "Good Morning," or other salutation appropriate to the time of day.
Virgin Gorda is a small island, about eight square miles, only a few miles from Tortola and its airport on Beef Island. In 2001, the population was 3100. The southwestern part of the island is known as the Valley. In this area of low gentle hills will be found most of the population, businesses and services, mostly in and around Spanish Town, the capital. Below Spanish Town, the landscape and seascapes are strewn with granite boulders the size of houses; these provide dramatic settings for accommodations, restaurants and beaches. In the center of the island, a low mountain rises from the sea to about 1350 feet. This area is sparsely inhabited, except for small neighborhoods in the North Sound area on its northeastern edge. Extending northeast from there is a chain of wooded hills accessible only by boat. A convenient excursion to one of the nicest outer island areas in Virgin Gorda would require hopping on the local Resort Ferry (Bitter End etc) in Gun Creek. This Ferry will take you on a short, but neat cruise into the heart of the North Sound area. Small islands in this area contribute to the very sheltered harbors in the sound.
'''Air Sunshine''', +1 800 327-8900 from US and Canada, [http://www.airsunshine.com/main.htm] flies from San Juan to the tiny Virgin Gorda airport four times a day; in winter the last flight may be diverted to Tortola, as the airport operates only from sunrise to sunset. The Virgin Gorda experience begins with an exciting approach as the small plane drops over a ridge and descends along the side of the hill that obstructs the approach to the landing strip. The reservation process is cumbersome, requiring faxes and a delay of up to 48 hours for confirmation, but Air Sunshine has a loyal following among regular visitors, many of whom are on a first-name basis with the pilots.
'''Fly BVI - Caribbean Air Charter''', +1 866 819-3146 Toll Free from US & Canada, +1 284 495-1747 Worldwide Reservations Line. [http://www.fly-bvi.com] Specializes in private charter flights to and from the BVI, as their name implies. Fly BVI operates a number of aircraft from the reliable Piper PA-23-250 "Aztec" with 6 seats, up to the King of the Ramp, the Cessna 404 "Titan", Cessna's Largest Piston Twin, configured for 9 Passengers. Prices will be comparable to commercial airline travel if you have at least four passengers.
'''Seabourne Airlines''', +1 888 359-8687, [http://www.seaborneairlines.com/] offers less frequent seaplane service from San Juan Harbor via St. Thomas to the Gun Creek Ferry Terminal in North Sound.
'''North Sound Express''', +1 284 495-2138, links Beef Island, site of Tortola's airport, to Spanish Town, Leverick Bay and Bitter End.
For those staying at resorts, taxis are readily available for the occasional excursion. Most people staying in cottages or villas will want to rent a car for at least part of the stay. Driving is on the left. All major roads are paved except for the road to Mango Bay and Nail Bay; paving is underway there at this writing (Spring 2008). Some roads are narrow with steep drop-offs, dips and speed bumps. The roads to Leverick Bay and Gun Creek are alarmingly steep. Motorists must be alert for pedestrians (there are no sidewalks), livestock, cars parked on the roadway and vehicles passing on curves. That being said, traffic is light and drivers are courteous. Speeds are low but distances are short. Gasoline (premium only) is available at stations at each end of Spanish Town.
'''Mahogany Rentals''', +1 284 495-5469, [http://mahoganyrentals.puzzlepiece.net/], rents late-model 4WD SUVs, has taxi service and gives tours. '''Speedy's''', +1 284 495-5240, [http://www.speedysbvi.com/] also has rentals, tours and taxi service.
Some of the resorts in the North Sound area are accessible only by ferry service from Gun Creek.
All the usual tropic island activities are available—sailing, fishing, snorkeling and scuba.
Along the southwestern shore below Spanish Town, there is a string of beaches, with light surf, beautiful sand and blue water. Each beach is separated from the next by the huge granite boulders that make the scenery so memorable. All are public, but respect the privacy of the villas that face some of the beaches (OK, go ahead and peek through the fences—some are stunning).
Beginning at the southern end:
Tired of the beaches? Trails lead from North Sound Road to '''Gorda Peak''', where an observation tower offers views of the whole island with its beaches, coves, reefs, offshore islands and blue water. The peak is over 1300 feet but most of the climb is made by road. The first trailhead (coming from the south) leads to a longer route (55 minutes) with more vertical climb. The next one is shorter but steeper. Either climb can be made by anyone in average condition with ordinary shoes. Bring water.
'''Double "D",''' +1 284 499-2479, [http://www.doubledbvi.com/] has a variety of full- and half-day cruises by catamaran or motor yacht to islands around Virgin Gorda.
The '''Sviva Spa''' at Leverick Bay, +1 284 495-7375, [http://www.thebvispa.com/] will pamper you in many ways, either at their location or on your yacht (or your villa or hotel room).
'''Learn to Sail.''' The Sailing School at Bitter End Yacht Club [http://www.beyc.com/] is open to visitors as well as guests.
Prices are high at Virgin Gorda restaurants. Food must be imported from the US and farther afield, and reshipped from deepwater harbors on small boats. '''Service charge''', usually 15%, is almost always included in the bill. It may not be obvious; if in doubt, ask.