The '''East Coast''' of Singapore is largely residential and offers few sights as such; most visitors just cross it on their way from and to Changi Airport. For Singaporeans, on the other hand, the main attractions are '''20 kilometres of white sandy beach''' and the '''food''': this is the home of many of Singapore's culinary icons. The true home of Singapore's Malay community is in '''Geylang Serai''', traces of Peranakan culture still linger in '''Katong''', and the East Coast also offers Singapore's solitary flashback to the past, the rustic little island of '''Pulau Ubin'''.

Get in

The '''East-West MRT''' runs the length of the East Coast all the way from the center to Pasir Ris and Changi Airport. The '''North-East MRT''' traverses up to Sengkang and Punggol on the northern coast of the island, but doesn't go to very many places of interest for even the most determined of travellers.

If you've got one day to spare, consider taking in the Changi Chapel and Pulau Ubin, with a lunch break at Changi Village and a seafood spread for dinner.

See

Tourist literature usually hawks the restored (and, in the daytime, near-empty) Arab Street near Bugis, but '''Geylang Serai''' is the true home of Singapore's Malay community. Especially during the Islamic month of '''Ramadan''' leading up to '''Hari Raya Puasa''' (Eid ul-Fitr), the entire area lights up in celebration as people eat and shop in the evenings after the sun goes down.

  • Changi Chapel and Museum. 000 Upper Changi Road North. us 29 from Tampines MRT or bus 2 from Tanah Merah. ttp://www.changimuseum.com/. ree. :30 AM to 4:30 PM daily. Singapore's memorial to the notorious WW2 Japanese POW camp, the setting of James Clavell's ''King Rat''. The current site is a reconstruction ''and'' in a different location, but contains a replica of the original chapel and informative exhibits about the squalid conditions of the prison.
  • Malay Village. 9 Geylang Serai. 10. 0 AM to 10 PM. A rather artificial recreation of Malay ''kampong'' (village) life in the heart of Geylang.
  • Sengkang LRT. hange at Sengkang MRT. ttp://www.sbstransit.com.sg/transport/trpt_lrt_overview.aspx. p to $1.10. .45 AM to 12:40AM daily. For the transport enthusiast or those interested in seeing the housing in which many Singaporeans live, the light rail is well worth a ride, as it traverses past row upon row of unit blocks. On the West Loop, detour to Jalan Kayu from LRT Thanggam station for some of Singapore's best ''prata'' (see Eat).

    The East Coast's second area of historical interest is '''Katong''' and '''Joo Chiat''', which retain a smattering of traditional shophouses and shops specializing in Peranakan crafts and food. The area is a fairly lengthy hike from Eunos, the nearest MRT station, but can be reached by eg. bus 12 from Bugis. There is also plenty of great food in the area.

  • Kim Choo. 09/111 East Coast Road. 65-67412125. ttp://www.kimchoo.com. Housed in an old Peranakan shophouse, Singaporeans know this shop best for its dumplings (''kueh chang''), but they've opened up their second story for visitors and also operate a Peranakan restaurant and gift shop with pottery, beadwork, kebayas and more. While most of what you see comes from China (as it did even back in the old days), some of their wares are still made in Singapore, and they conduct regular cooking and arts classes.

  • Koon Seng Road. A section of this short street, between Joo Chiat and Still Rds, has what are probably Singapore's prettiest shophouses. Houses on one side of the street are multicolored, while the other has more soberly decorated shophouses with elaborate flower-themed curlicues.

    Do

    The best bits of eastern Singapore's are its '''beaches'''. In addition to the ones below, try Pasir Ris or Punggol to really get off the tourist trail.

  • East Coast Park. ttp://www.nparks.gov.sg/park11.asp. Basically 20 km of free beach on Singapore's southeastern coast, very popular on sunny weekends. The water is on the murky side, but the (imported) white sand, palm trees, and skimpily clad rollerbladers zooming past on the promenade make up for it. Bicycle and skate rental available.
  • Pulau Ubin. ttp://www.nparks.gov.sg/park38.asp. Singapore's flashback to yesteryear, a little island off the northern coast where people still live in fishing villages on stilts. The island is covered in '''biking trails''' and is an excellent spot for a little steamy jungle offroading; bike rentals go for as low as $3 a day, and the 45-hectare Ketam Mountain Bike Park has a good 10-km trail. Access to the island requires a bit of effort though: take the MRT to Tampines, then ride bus 29 to the bus terminal in Changi Village, find the jetty and hop on a '''bumboat''' ($2 each way) for the 10-minute ride to the island.
  • Changi Beach. ear Changi Village. ttp://www.nparks.gov.sg/park8.asp. Right next to '''Changi Airport''', you can watch (and hear) the neverending parade of airplanes from here. If you walk along the beach to the southeast, you will eventually pass by Bedok Jetty and arrive at East Coast Park.

    Buy

    Geylang Serai market, the heart of Singapore's Muslim community and long one of the most atmospheric in Singapore, was unceremoniously '''demolished''' in 2006. A temporary market has set up next to Paya Lebar MRT, selling a wide array of Malay and Middle Eastern goods, and a rebuilt market should be ready by the end of 2008.

    Eat

    The East Coast is home to many of Singapore's best-known dishes, including '''chilli crab''', '''Katong laksa''' and '''roti prata'''. The strech of '''Geylang Road''' between '''Paya Lebar''' and '''Kallang''' MRT stations is arguably the most vibrant part of Singapore. Despite being famous for its red light district and abundance of sleazy karaoke bars, the area is also home to some of Singapore's best kept culinary secrets, and is a favourite for locals heading out for supper with friends.

    Budget

    '''Katong''' is the undisputed home of ''laksa'', the coconutty noodle soup that's one of Singapore's national dishes, but there's still plenty of dispute about who came up with it first and who does it best.

  • 328 Katong Laksa. 1 East Coast Rd. Just across the street from #49, this was one of the factions of the "laksa wars" of yore. Now franchised all over Singapore, but this is the original, still supervised by the owner.
  • Famous 49 Katong Laksa. 9 East Coast Rd. ong Tock Hin, off Ceylon Rd. The stall that started it all. No longer run by the original operators, but still one of the best.
  • Marine Parade Laksa. 9 East Coast Rd #01-57/59. Run by the people who originally ran #49, although some think the quality has gone down (see Zhen Shan Mei in Jurong for the competition).

    There are plenty of other famous yet cheap eats in the neighborhoods of the East Coast.

  • International Muslim Food. lk 2 Changi Village Rd #01-57. 2.50/plate. This nondescript stall has a neverending queue for Singapore's best '''nasi lemak''', Malay-style coconut rice with fried chicken, chili, egg and various goodies. Quite honestly, it's not ''that'' different from what you'll get elsewhere, but the fast turnover alone means that it's fresh and tasty.
  • Thasevi Food. 37/239 Jalan Kayu. min walk from Sengkang LRT Thanggam station. The original place for '''roti prata''' (Indian-style bread with curry dip), although the size of the portions has shrunk as their fame has grown. Still, most serves clock in at less than $2, and you can sample unorthodox variants like banana prata or ice cream prata, complete with whipped cream and chocolate sauce. Try the chicken murtabak and the Indian rojak. Halal.

    Mid-range

    The red-light district of Geylang is also famous for its culinary delights. Shops here tend to be no-frills affairs, but the food can be great and prices are reasonable.

  • Sin Huat Seafood. 59-661 Geylang Rd. ff Lorong 35. 50/crab (enough for two). Looks very unassuming, but the crab ''bee hoon'' stewed in rice noodles is legendary. Cooked to order, so expect to wait up to an hour and expect 'legendary' service as well: they won't serve you if you are eating duck rice from the neighboring shop.
  • Turtle House. 03 Guillemard Road. t corner of Geyland Lorong 36. 65-67451248. aily 11:30 AM to midnight. 30. ttp://www.liveturtle.com/. The speciality here is turtle soup ($14 upwards), but the menu also has a whole slew of other amphibian dishes, ranging from the merely exotic (frog legs) to the outright bizarre (crocodile flippers, turtle skin and intestines). Air-con and outdoor seating.

    Splurge

    Above all, the East Coast is associated with '''fresh seafood''', which is often excellent but always rather pricey; check prices before you order! The two primary clusters are in and near '''Marina Cove''' on the '''East Coast Parkway''' further out, and '''Kallang Oasis''' nearer to the city. Some better known restaurants:

  • Jumbo Seafood. 206 and 1208 East Coast Parkway. 65-64423435. ttp://www.jumboseafood.com.sg/. Best known for its chilli crabs. Other outlets at Riverside Point (opposite Clarke Quay), Serangoon Gardens, Changi and Riverwalk, but this is the original.
  • Little Red House. ast Coast Parkway. Another chilli crab joint.
  • No Signboard Seafood. utlets at ECP and Kallang Oasis. Known for its butter crabs.
  • Long Beach Seafood Restaurant. 018 East Coast Parkway. 65-64458833. ttp://www.longbeachseafood.com.sg. Known for a wide variety of seafood including black pepper crab and butter crayfish and one of the most crowded seafood restaurants in the East Coast area on weekends. One should also try the duck they serve, which is prepared in a unique way and is available only at the main branch. Other branches can be found in Jurong East and Marina South.
  • The Mango Tree. 000 East Coast Parkway, Blk B, Unit 23. 65-64428655. 40. ttp://themangotree.com.sg/. Offers Kerala-style Indian seafood in a tastefully decorated beachside restaurant, quite unlike the raucous Chinese places above. Plenty of vegetarian options too.

    Drink

    Aside from a few beer bars in the East Coast Park there are few places to drink on the East Coast. The notable exception is '''Geylang''', adjacent to but distinct from Geylang Serai, which is Singapore's largest red-light district. Rule of thumb is, the establishments on odd-numbered alleys (''lorong'') are legit, while those on even-numbered ones are brothels.

    Sleep

    Most of the East Coast's accommodation consists of cheap hotels in and around the red-light districts of '''Geylang''' and '''Joo Chiat''', many of which rent rooms by the hour. The ubiquitous '''Hotel 81''' [http://www.hotel81.com.sg/] chain alone has 11 hotels in the area. Still, if you're on a budget and don't mind the local nightlife, Geylang/Joo Chiat are definitely worth considering: the rates are among the cheapest in town, the late night eating options are unparalleled, the area is perfectly safe, and both the airport and the city aren't too far away.

    Budget

    '''Camping''' is allowed in designated areas of Changi Beach Park, East Coast Park and Pasir Ris Park. All have showers and toilets and are free to use for stays of up to five days, although you have to register with park officers on weekdays — just show your ID and get a slip in return.

  • <listing name="98SG Hostel" alt="" address="96A Lor 27 Geylang, Singapore" directions="1 min from Aljunied MRT Station" phone="+65-62261221" url="http://98SG.com" hours="" price="Dorm $16-26, room from $45" lat="" long="" email="book@98sg.com" fax="">Clean, good beds, air-conditioned, free wifi, free breakfast. No food/drinks allowed and lockers cost extra. Very close to MRT.</listing>
  • Betel Box Hostel Singapore. 00 Joo Chiat Road. aya Lebar MRT. 65-62477340. ttp://www.betelbox.com. Located in the Katong district. The price per night is $18 which includes breakfast, bed linen, use of a security locker, free broadband Internet access and free use of fitness centre. All rooms are air-conditioned and there are hot and cold showers.
  • City Backpackers. A Jalan Ayer. allang MRT. 65-64925204. ttp://www.citybackpackers.com.sg/. orm $20. Budget dormitory a few minutes away from the city by MRT. Clean and safe.

    Mid-range

  • Gateway Hotel. 0 Joo Chiat Road #01-06. 00m to Paya Lebar MRT. 65-63420988. ttp://www.gatewayhotel.com.sg/. 98/148 standard/theme double. One of the few hotels around here with some character, the 82-room Gateway is housed in a restored shophouse and the theme rooms come in flavors including "Safari", "Paradiso", "Tatami" and even "Da Bronx". The standard rooms, though, are nondescript but clean. Internet and self-service laundry available.

    Splurge

  • Changi Village Hotel. Netheravon Rd. 65-63797111. 180. ttp://www.changivillage.com.sg. Formerly known as ''Le Meridien Changi Village'', the hotel has since changed its management and gone through a long-overdue renovation. It is located at Changi Village, an otherwise sleepy enclave of cheap (but surprisingly good) eateries and pubs, and is about 15 mins by taxi from the airport. The hotel also provides an hourly airport shuttle bus for its guests.

  • Crowne Plaza Changi Airport. 5 Airport Blvd #01-01. 65-68235300. 240. ttp://www.ichotelsgroup.com/h/d/pc/1/en/hotel/SINCP/welcome. Opened April 2008, this four-star airport hotel is directly connected to Changi's Terminal 3 and easily reached from T1/T2, but you do have to pass through immigration to stay here. Pool, gym, spa, bar, two restaurants, pay-per-minute Internet.

    Cope

    Laundry

  • <listing name="Systematic Laundromat" alt="" directions="Parkway Parade, 15 min from Eunos MRT" address="80 Marine Parade Road #04-K1/K2" phone="+65-64401554" email="" fax="" url="" hours="" price="">Self-service laundromat. 30 min washing machine for up to 6 kg of laundry for $6, then $1/8 min cycle of the dryer.</listing>
  • Contact

    '''East Coast Rd''' has a slew of cheap Internet cafes. Try '''Red Hot Internet Cafe''' at 63 East Coast Rd or '''CyberWorld Communications''' at 67 East Coast Rd, both offering rates of $1/hour.