After Granada, which is better preserved, Leon has the best colonial architecture in Nicaragua. It is a university town that stubbornly remains somewhat pro-Sandinista. During the 1979 revolution, the Sandinistas took over Leon in violent street by street fighting. Somoza then had the city bombed, an unforgivable move considering he was bombing his own people. The National Guard took Leon back over, again in street by street fighting, but this time less intense since the Sandinistas melted away. Finally, the Sandinistas took Leon back over and held it until the Somoa government fell. You can still see bullet marks on some buildings. Also, there is a shell of a church on the road out of town that was destroyed during the bombing. Across the street from this church is the Museo de las Tradiciones (Museum of the Traditions), which prominently displays a statute of a Sandinista guerrilla holding a handmade bomb. Some sarcastically call it the Museo de las Traiciones (Museum of the Treasons) as a reference to how the Sandinista rank and file has been cheated by Daniel Ortega and the rest of the Sandinista elite.
Leon used to be the hub of cotton growing but that has declined. The economy is relatively depressed. Tourists are not a large, visible presence in Leon, though it is popular amongst more seasoned travellers. Leon still is a university town, filled with students. Backpackers, volunteers and other extranjeros usually meld with local students.
Leon has more colonial churches and cathedrals per capita than any other place in Nicaragua. If you are still on the church tour, there are thirteen, I think; you can check out in town.
Nearest commercial airport is in Managua. Managua is roughly an hour and a half drive from Leon.
Just about anyone in Managua can tell you how. The Carretera Vieja to Leon (old road to Leon) is in the best shape it has been, ever. It is well paved and signed. (The Carretera Nueva is in bad shape I hear). It's about 90 kilometers from Managua to Leon, about a 90 minute trip depending on how fast you drive. Stop for quesillo and tiste in Nagarote or La Paz Centro, the two towns the Carretera Vieja goes through on the way. You will find the turnoff to the Carretera Nueva a Leon at KM 6 1/2 on the Carretera Sur.
If you are coming from the north (Esteli) on the carretera norte, take the turn north of Matagalpa, at San Isidro I think, and save yourself the trouble of going through Managua.
Theres one bus from Esteli, if you miss it, you've got to change in San Isidro on the Panamerican Hwy.
The bus terminal is about 2 km northeast of the center, take on of the trucks waiting in front of the terminal - which serve as local buses (3 cord) - to the center, or take a taxi for about C$10.
From Matagalpa, there are 2 direct busses running daily, otherwise take a bus to San Isidro and transfer to Leon.
Direct transportation is also available directly from the Managua airport via private van service.
The city is very walkable if you can stand the heat. You do not really need a car once there, unlike Managua. The locals get around by bicycle and walking, and if you need to get across town you can take a taxi. However, to go to the places outside the city, such as the beach, a car is convenient.
Ruletos (trucks) serve as local buses (C$ 3 per ride). Taxis are C$ 10 per person anywhere in the city.
There are murals all over the city. One of the more unsettling commemorates a massacre of protesting local students by the militia.
Take advantage of the beaches of Poneloya and Penitas nearby. Be careful once there though, not of the people, who are just as friendly as in Leon, but of the surf. The waves are large and quite fun, but watch out for the currents. The surf claims a victim or two every year, including the young and fit. There are accommodations from hotel Lacayo, old and historic, all wood structure, to Hotel Poneloya, recently refurbished rooms w/ a/c across the street. They have upgraded the beds, famous for uncomfortable before. Still, the rooms have no real windows. Rooms were $25 dollars a night (they built some new rooms which I did not look at. There are better hotels in Penitas. Try the Hotel Suyapa Beach (885-8345). Rooms are a bit more expensive but well worth it if you have the money (still less than $60). They have a pool and a popular beachside restaurant.
Besides hanging out at the beach, there's a billiard hall popular with locals at the end of the paved road in Poneloya (though at night it gets a little rowdy as locals get drunk on Lijon - cheap sugar cane liquor), rustic restaurants past the billiard hall, and lots of Flor de Cana rum. There is also a Catholic Church in Poneloya in case you need to make atonement for what Flor made you do. Buses depart from the road to Poneloya on the outskirts of town (by Subtiava), they are quite affordable. Splurging on a taxi is also an option (C$150 to $250 depending). The beaches are less than 20 kilometers away.
Catch a baseball game if you are there during the season. The Leones won the championship in 2004 and are perpetual contenders. For fifty cordobas you can sit right behind home plate, or pay less for 3rd base side where the lively crowd sits with the unofficial band. Order some vigoron, get a Victoria and enjoy. If Chinandega is visiting, it can get quite rowdy and tickets sell out. The stadium is in the northern part of the city.
Visit the Museo Ruben Dario. Pick up some of his poetry (Azul is a good beginning). There is an art museum that has a good collection, including contemporary art. It occupies two houses. The main part on a southeast corner of the street that runs from Parque Ruben Dario to the Cathedral (Avenida Central).
For the best view over the city and the volcanoes, go to "el fortin", an old Somoza stronghold southwest of Leon, best reached from Subtiava. It's a 20 minute walk, ask locals for directions.
You also can get excellent classes with private teachers, which actually is much cheaper.
There are free-of-charge volunteer opportunities with [http://www.volunteer-nicaragua.org Quetzaltrekkers] an organisation raising money for street kids by offering hikes to volcanoes around Leon. You can volunteer as a hiking guide for a minimum of three months.
Las Tias - the supported organization - also takes volunteers, taking care of the streetkids, with a two months minimum.
Ask around at the cafe run by "Edad de Oro", whether this organisation got some (volunteer) work for you - they're pretty cool too.
some people find work at the big foot hostel, and for long time (6 month or so) stayers it's sometimes possible to teach english.
On the street behind the market is Buen Gusto, where you should grab some Pollo Vino on the cheap. A few blocks south of the Parque de los Poetas is Buena Cuchara, where the food is delicious-- 25 cordobas for a full lunch, including either fish or chicken (both delicious).
On the boulevard out of town toward Chinandega, across from the main police station, there's a green house with a porch. This 'Pelo de chancho', where you get the best Mondongo soup in Leon, but you have to get there early for lunch or they might run out.
Located two houses from the Nord West corner of the Central Park in front of the big Enitel building is Cafe La Rosita that offers an excellent environment (beautifully restored colonial house with large central patio), premium Nicaraguan coffees, a short but complete menu of panini sandwiches, salads, desserts, and even ice-cold beers.And free wireless internet access.
Los Pescaditos, located in Subtiava, is worth the cab ride (less than 10 minutes from Cathedral). You should check out the Subtiava Church on the way back to walk off your meal.
Montezerino is on the bypass near the Managua intersection. They serve a good fillet mignon or churrasco for under $10 US. The restaurant serves as a night club at night. It is open on the sides and large.
Payitas, El Sesteo during the day.
Don Senor's has a restaurant downstairs to eat, drink and watch tv. Upstairs is a club that charges a 30 cordoba cover.
Dilectus is fancier and larger then the other discos. Its on the edge of town and requires a taxi to get there and back. The cover is about c$50.
Salon Estrella is about 20 cordobas to get in, has slot machines in front, a small dance floor in the back, loud music and usually gets pretty full.
La Calabiza at night.
ViaVia has live music every Friday (follow the crowed when it closes at 11 pm - it's still a hostel, with tired travellers...).
El Divino Castigo (3 blocks north of parque central) got live music every Tuesday. La Esquina del Movimiento (one block east of the above) got Spanish alternative movies almost every Thursday, and often live music on Saturdays.
Cappuccino, espresso, granita etc.: Cafe La Rosita offers an excellent environment (beautifully restored colonial house with large central patio), premium Nicaraguan coffees, a short but complete menu (sandwiches, salads, desserts, and even ice-cold beers), wireless internet access, and best of all, prices that are in step with the Nicaraguan economy-- low. Here you'll find locals and foreigners alike all relaxing in the heart of downtown Leon. Located on Calle Real in front of Enitel, diagonal from the NW corner of Central Park.