'''Iquitos''' is in the Amazonas region of Peru. This is not to be confused with the Department Amazonas where Chachapoyas is located. Iquitos is the capital of the vast Department of Loreto, which covers most of the northern Amazon region of Peru.
For travelers, Iquitos offers a vast selection of activities not found elsewhere in Peru, such as Amazon boat rides and great wildlife viewing. One way to see Peru is to visit the 3 areas - Costal, Andes, and Amazon -- and Iquitos is the best way to see the Amazon.
Get in
Iquitos is the widely considered the largest continental city unreachable by road. That leaves planes and boats as the primary means of entrance and egress for both people and supplies.
By Air
There are numerous flights to Iquitos from the capital Lima. LAN [http://lan.com] offers daily flights from Lima for around 140 USD. Star Peru ([http://www.starperu.com]) offers slightly lower prices. Flights to Iquitos do a brief 10-minute stopover at Tarapoto on the way to re-fuel and drop off/pick up passengers.
When arriving at the airport, consider stopping at the official iPeru information desk before exiting the terminal. You can get a free map (without ads!), a list of tour providers, and perhaps even recommendations about what to see and do.
By Boat
Iquitos can be reached by boat from any navigable port on the Amazon River. Boat prices will depend on the distance, speed of the boat, number of passengers, and your bargaining skills.
Coca, Ecuador to Iquitos
The trip from Francisco de Orellana (Coca), Ecuador to Iquitos takes over 8 days. The first five days are around the Yasuni National Park in the lagoon of Jatuncocha (Ecuador). It then leaves on an adventure from Nuevo Rocafuerte heading towards Iquitos. This expedition goes 1,140 km along the Napo River and the Amazon River. The Napo River is one of the most important tributaries of the mighty Amazon River. The source of the Napo comes from small streams flowing from the Cotopaxi and Antisana volcanoes. Normally, there is only 1 cargo ship every 10 days.
Yurimaguas, Peru to Iquitos
Yurimaguas has daily cargo ship trips to Iquitos that take 2-2.5 days to arrive (except Sundays or on holidays). Getting to Yurimaguas is non trivial, because its airport no longer has flights. Yurimaguas is 3 hour by bus from Tarapoto.
To get Yurimaguas, first you have to get Tarapoto, a large city that has daily flights from Lima on Star Peru (the airline). You can get Tarapoto by bus from Lima (about 20 hours) or Chiclayo in northern Peru (about 18 hours). From Loja, Ecuador, you can take a bus to Pedro Ruiz, a town in Peru, where you can get Chachapoyas or Tarapoto. Tarapoto and Moyobamba are known as "The Orchids Valley".
It takes around 4 days to get to Iquitos from Lima. It takes around 4 days to get to Yurimaguas from Quito, Ecuador.
Pucallpa, Peru to Iquitos
Pucallpa has daily cargo ship trips to Iquitos that take about 4 days to arrive (except Sundays or on holidays). You can get Pucallpa from daily flights from Lima on Star Peru or by bus (20 hours).
Peru/Colombia/Brazil border to Iquitos
It just so happens that if you continue down the Amazon from Iquitos, the point at which the river leaves Peru is at both the Brazilian and Colombian borders.
Tabatinga (Brazil) or Leticia (Colombia) has Monday to Saturday cargo ship trips to Iquitos, that take about 3 days. Therefore, you can choose the speedboats from Tuesday to Sunday, the trip takes 9 - 10 hours (USD 65.00).
Get around
The most common way to move around town is by '''motocarro''', a motorcycle with a small, rickshaw-like passenger cabin in the back. Taxis are available too, but the heat and availability of the moto-taxis makes it advisable to take a motocarro. Sometimes the 1.5/2 soles ride is worth the cost just for the breeze. Most places you will want to go within the city cost about 1.5 soles, but places further away (for example, from the airport to Plaza de Armas) usually costs about 3 soles or more. The drivers often make their money by kickbacks from the hotels they take you to.
It's hard to understate how available and prevalent the motocarros are in the city. Near the city center, it's common for 2 or 3 empty motocarros to pass you on the street in any given minute. They driver will make eye contact with you, hoping that you are interested in a ride. Not all motocarros are identical in the quality of their ride; older ones will tend to transfer the vibration of the motorcycle to the passenger cabin, while newer and better maintained ones won't. When taking a motocarro, it can be comfortable on longer rides to hail a newer-looking one.
If you're economically minded, it can be fun to learn about the economics of motocarros. As of May 2009, it's typical for the drivers to rent their taxis for 25 soles/day.
Many motocarristas (those who drive the motocarros) make excellent city guides. Motocarristas are extremely friendly and outgoing, in fact, they are too outgoing and even aggressive in their pursuit to gain a passenger. So tourists can enjoy some peace in Iquitos, do not take a ride from a taxi driver who asks you for a ride when you are sitting and eating.
When you exit the airport you will be approached very aggressively by the taxi drivers (this is a more acceptable place for taxi driver aggression.) Take the first one who offers to drive you for 2 soles. This is an excellent price, as the drive from the airport to the city center is quite a distance, relative to the size of the Iquitos area. As alluded to before, they will try to take you to a hotel or hostel that pays them. However, if you already have a hotel in mind, stay firm and they will take you there.
Understand
Iquitos is hot and humid (90 percent) year round. The population is very diverse: there were many periods of big wealth in Iquitos (mainly two with rubber and oil) that brought people from around the world and made it the most important fluvial port in the Peruvian Amazon. The city still has a lot of houses which were built during that age. 'Iquitenos' (or 'Iquitinos') are usually very friendly and like to party.
As a city not accessible by road, motocycles and motocarros dominate unlike anywhere else. Imagine if an American style biker-gang had taken over a city. This makes the city a bit more manic and loud. Other results include remarkably fluid (if chaotic) traffic, a preponderance of motocycle ads and repair shops, and a sub-industry of people who agree to guard your motorcycle while you shop (even placing cardboard on the seat to keep it cooler during the day).
Geographic and Climatic Data for Iquitos Peru
This data for Iquitos Peru is from the NASA Langley Atmospheric Science Data Research Center.
Latitude: Minus 3.75 degrees south of the equator.
The elevation above sea level is approximately 106 meters or 351 feet.
The Coordinated Universal Time of Peru is UTC-5, the same as Florida and New York, Eastern Standard Time. Remember that Peru doesn't observe daylight savings time, so Iquitos will be the same time as Central Standard Time for about half of the year.
The time difference between the longest day and the shortest day is only 18 minutes.
The temperature measured by __ F averaged from 22 years of data per month:
(Jan. 82.09) (Feb. 81.86) (Mar. 82.60) (Apr. 82.06) (May 82.42) (June 82.20)
(July 82.04) (Aug 83.55) (Sept. 85.78) (Oct. 86.59) (Nov. 84.88) (Dec. 82.87)
The average rainfall at the Iquitos Port is 103 inches per year. March and April have slightly more rain on a 10 year average, and July and August have slightly less than average, but contrary to popular belief there is very little difference in month to month precipitation in Iquitos. The water level of the river fluctuates by as much as 40 feet per year, triggered by rainfall and snow melt on the east slopes of the Andes.
See
The riverfront is just a few blocks from the Plaza de Armas. In the low water season it will retreat and thus not be terribly visible. The waterfront walk also seems to be the place where local high schoolers go to canoodle, so if you stroll it be prepared to see lots of this. There is a somewhat big crafts market right below the walk.
The Plaza de Armas is a mix of mostly modern and rubber boom styles. Cities like Iquitos turned into one long party during that age, where no expense was spared, nor eccentricity nor luxury lacking. As part of the legacy of this rubber boom age of abundance, Iquitos still bears traces of the extravagant taste of the rubber barons: mosaic tiles in Italian-style palaces, the bustling riverside walkway or the famous residence designed by Gustave Eiffel and which was built from metal sheets carried by hundreds of men through the jungle. There are a few street performers, a fountain, some statues, and one Catholic church. It is quite busy on a Saturday evening.
Today, in the city of Iquitos, the modest local homes -not without a certain kitsch charm- exist alongside French mansions, today largely used as public offices. Over time, with the invention of nylon and other alternative products, demand for rubber dwindled, signifying the end of the rubber barons. The memory of this past filled with abundance, however, lives on in the eccentric buildings which testify to an exuberant and wild era.
La Casa de Fierro (The Iron House). On the corner of Prospero and Putumayo in front of the main square. It houses crafts shops and a restaurant
The old Hotel de Turistas stands in front of the new hotel, overlooking the Itaya River.
The Morey and Cohen houses still stand on the Prospero street, which is the main street. Worth photographing.
La Plaza 28, the biggest square in Peru, there are very good 'Chifa' (Peruvian Chinese) restaurants around the square.
One of the major attractions of Iquitos and the Amazon Rain Forest is the native tribes. For a good review of the various Amazonian tribes and how to meet them see the Amazon-Indians Non-Profit Organization Guide [http://www.amazon-indians.org].
Do
If you want to party, there are dance clubs all over the city. All Iquitenos love to party on their own way. That's non-stop partying all year round!. Beer and other cold beverages are cheaper than in Lima (subsidized by the government). Often times clubs will not let men in if they are wearing sandals or unbuttoned shirts.
There are many lodges and resorts close to the city but next to rivers. The experience is carefully controlled and the facilities are adequate, with some of them even very well appointed. You can book in the city or pay for a full package in Lima or through a travel agent.
iPeru, the official tourist information shop, has representatives at the airport and downtown. They are very helpful to any travelers struggling to make sense of their options.
Renting a motorcycle and driving around the city and out towards the airport is a cheap and an exhilarating way to experience Iquitos and the surrounding area. Only do so if (1) you are an experienced motorcycle driver, and (2) you can handle the manic traffic.
Note: The police have been known to target foreign-looking drivers, since they can often pay larger bribes. One way the police make extra money is to stand by the side of the road and flag over most everyone who drives by. The ones who do pull over will often pay a small fee for the privilege (perhaps to help the police "fix the crack in their windshield.") If you can tell that no one will come after you if don't pull over, consider pretending not to see them and continuing to drive on.
The Lagoon of Quistococha is also near the city. There is a small zoo.
Buy
The floating market, known as Belen, is located on the embankment in Iquitos.
Over 150 native communities from upriver come down here to sell their produce in the Market. Belen is the hub of every village within miles, chaotic, flavorful, practical and superstitious, thriving on and above a strip of land that is seasonally flooded. For a series of photo-essays on Belen, check out The Belen Street Market [http://www.iquitosnews.com/page06a.html], Pasaje Paquito (if you want to buy exotic drinks this is THE place) [http://www.iquitosnews.com/page05a.html], and Floating in Belen [http://www.iquitosnews.com/page04a.html].
If you want to buy crafts, you can go to the San Juan crafts market.
Be careful as there are many thieves and pickpockets in this market. Take extreme caution, don't carry valuables in ANY outwardly accessible pockets, and dress down so you are not an obvious target. Consider striking up conversations with police as you walk through, to make yourself even less attractive. (Though many of the police can be corrupt, they also like helping tourists out.)
Eat
If you are new to Iquitos and the Amazon, you are in for a real treat. The food in Iquitos is excellent. It is an exotic blend of peruvian, brazilian, and colombian food with influences from the Andes and the Pacific Coast. Try the 'juane' and the 'tacacho'. For a list of the top ten restaurants check out the Iquitos News [http://www.iquitosnews.com/page11a.html]. If you want something cool (most likely you will need it because of the heat) there are excellent 'heladerias' (ice cream shops) like Shambo (in the corner of Prospero and Morona St.) and La Favorita in Prospero St.
The Huasai, easy to find, half a block northwest of the Plaza de Armas, at Fitzcarrald # 131. One of the best values in Iquitos for lunch at $2.50, includes a pitcher of tropical fruit juice. Very popular with local business people.
Kikiriki, easy to find at Napo # 159, one block north of the Plaza de Armas, away from the river. Good for chicken and anticucho, good value for around $2.00. Opens at 6:00 PM.
Try the majas con yuca and the deer steak!
Drink
Try tropical fruit juices, like Cocona. Pineapple in the Amazon region is quite different to the one found in the rest of Peru, and makes really good juices. Aguaje and ungurahui are also a good choice: you can try everything in the entrance of the Upper Belen central market. You can try also native alcoholic drinks (some of them reputedly aphrodisiac). Pasaje Paquito is the best place to buy them.
Para Para, (Up and up) made with honey.
Aguajina, sweet beverage made with aguaje pulp.
Sleep
Reasonable places can be found for around 30 USD per night, including air conditioning (important and very welcome in the brutal heat of the tropical environment) and a private bathroom. If you are staying in Iquitos and are not enjoying yourself, consider splurging for a room with AC, as it can make the difference between a good trip and a great one.
Given the louder-than-average noise of traffic, ask for a room away from the street.
'''El Dorado''', Plaza de Armas. Quite nice but expensive at over 100 USD per night.
'''Maranon Hotel''', on the block between the riverfront and Plaza de Armas. 35 USD per night for a double. Clean and air-conditioned.
'''Victoria Regia Hotel''', on Ricardo Palma St. About 30 USD per night. Pool, and a great breakfast spread.
'''La Casona Hotel''' (Add.: 147 Fitzcarrald St. | Tel.: (51 65) 234-394) | lacasonaiquitos@yahoo.com), right off the Plaza de Armas, is good compromise between roughing it and luxury. It's airy, secure, spacious, and only costs about S/.40 Nuevos Soles (USD 15.00). Most rooms have a fan, but the A/C room cost about S/.80 Nuevos Soles (USD 27.00). They have hot water, a kitchen, a rest area, and books for you. They also have a backpackers room for only S/.15 (USD 5.00). A great place to stay.
'''Aqua Expeditions Vessel''' Luxury cruise which takes travelers through an excursion to the most aloof ravines of this sector of the Amazonas river, where civilization has not yet spooked the megadiverse wildlife.
Otorongo Expeditions EIRL. utumayo 163 dpto 203 . 1 65 22 41 92. ww.otorongoexpeditions.com. Otorongo Expeditions offers a variety of services from comfortable Jungle Lodging, Amazon River Cruises, to Specialized services such as: serious bird watching, extreme fishing, jungle survival and extended camping trips.[http://www.otorongoexpeditions.com].<p>
Stay healthy
The main danger in the jungle surrounding Iquitos is the same as any tropical zone: malaria. There is very little malaria in the city, but it is common outside the city in the jungle. You should get anti-malaria pills from a doctor before your visit. Malarone (if that's what you've been perscribed) should be taken two days before arrival and 7 days after leaving. Bug repellent can be purchased in pharmacies anywhere in Peru and should be applied liberally whenever going out, and especially if taking an Amazon tour.
Get out
The main reason to visit Iquitos is that it serves as a launch point for trips into the Amazon. Single day or multi-day trips can be booked for around S/.150 Nuevos Soles per person per day. You are taken out on a boat and can view wildlife such as monkeys, alligators, giant lily-pads, baby caimans (sort of like mini-alligators), anacondas, boas, tarantulas, and more. Your taxi driver or hotel concierge will be more than happy to contact a tour guide for you, as they get a kickback for the referral. However by using this kickback referral system, you will be guaranteed the highest possible price and lowest possible service. There are not official tour guide associations so never pay attention to street guides; at the best, they are expensive, and at the worst, corrupt and dangerous. If you need know regular companies or guides get '''''iperu''''', the government tourist information office, their services are free and they can assist you in case you have problems anywhere over Peru. The '''''Iperu''''' address is 201 Loreto street (three blocks from the Main Square).
A good travel choice is to take a Cruise along the Amazon River, starting at Iquitos, passing by Leticia and ending in Manaus.
Government tourist and assistance office, iperu
Peruvian government features a free service that gives official information on the different attractions and assistance in case the service rendered does not comply with the one agreed by you. You may write to plan your travel to [mailto: iperuiquitos@promperu.gob.pe iperuiquitos@promperu.gob.pe] or call the 24 / 7 telephone: (51 1) 574-8000.