'''Kampong Cham''' is the third largest city in Cambodia, but has yet to be heavily touristed like Phnom Penh or Siem Reap. It carries with it plenty of colonial French charm, and has a genuine "wild west" feel to it. Most travellers who do find themselves in Kampong Cham are in transit to elsewhere in the country, but those that choose to spend at least a couple of days in the provincial capital will enjoy the laid back atmosphere and quaint charm.

Most people in Kampong Cham are of course ethnic Khmer, but there is a sizeable Cham minority in the province's towns, including a disproportionately high number of Muslims and Christians.

Understand

Kampong Cham is the capital of the province of the same name. Because there is little foreign investment and no large scale tourism (almost every foreigner who comes here will be a backpacker), this city is very poor with few modern buildings, though not lacking in French architecture from the colonial period. It is similar to many other Cambodian cities, being rather dirty, with garbage a common sight. However, with the completion of a modern two-lane bridge across the Mekong, the city has begun a slow recovery from decades of irrevocable decline. The people of Kampong Cham are (like all Cambodians) very friendly and open to engaging with tourists.

If recent projects seem to be improving the state of things here (relative to other Cambodian cities), realize that both PM Hun Sen and former Phnom Penh Governor Chea Sophara are originally from this province.

Get in

The highway between Kampong Cham city and the capital, Phnom Penh, is one of the best in the country, being paved and divided. It runs along the Mekong, and buses frequent this route daily, so you should have no trouble getting between the two cities.

If you have your own motorcycle or car, the trip will be so much faster and easier, just make sure to bring a map.

To get from Phnom Penh to Kampong Cham, there are several options for buses. The standard rules for bussing apply here, and try taking as early a bus as possible, to avoid arriving close to or after dusk, where your choice of accommodation will be limited. The telephone numbers listed here are for locations in Phnom Penh.

  • '''Sorya''', Telephone 023-210359. Approximately 5 USD, with buses leaving throughout the day at 6:45, 7:45, 9:00, 10:00, 11:30, 13:15, 15:00, and 16:00. Typically a 3-4 hour trip.
  • '''GST''', Telephone 023-335199. Also 4.5 USD, but only leaving twice daily, at 9:00 and 15:00 with a 3-4 hour trip.
  • '''Taxis''' are a less popular and more expensive method, costing about $10-$15 USD one way. These do, however, offer much more comfort and speed than a bus usually does, but make sure the vehicle's air conditioning is functional before getting in!

    '''Trucks''' are also an option, but with much less comfort than buses or taxis, and are not advised.

    Get around

    Once in Kampong Cham, most of the sites worth seeing are outside the city itself, so you're going to need some form of motorized transport.

    An increasing number of visitors to Cambodia are buying their own motorcycles and then reselling them just before they leave the country (or return home), and this is a great way to see Kampong Cham. Smaller 110cc bikes are the ones seen driven by practically every Khmer in the city, while the larger 250cc bikes are more often driven by foreigners or expats. The smaller bikes are cheaper, but less suited for long distance travel and are more susceptible to theft. It's your call, though most travellers end up buying 250ccs. If you choose to buy a 250cc, expect to pay anywhere from $500 to over $2500 USD, depending on the age of the bike. Note that Vietnam currently does not allow anything larger than 150cc into it's borders, but this will likely change in the near future. Note that there are no places to rent motorbikes currently in Kampong Cham, so if you don't wish to buy you had best rent from elsewhere in the country.

    There are plenty of motodops offering their service for travel not only within the city, but to outlying areas of the province. For a scant $4 USD, you can be shown the temples at Nokor Wat, the endless jackfruit fields, and other attractions near the city. Be warned though, if your driver takes you to stalls or shops to purchase souvenirs, he will be receiving commission off of whatever you choose to buy. As usual, bargain with your driver. It's okay to set a price beforehand, but sometimes best to agree on the price afterwards. For one way trips within the city, don't pay more than 2,000 riel (and many will consider even that a rip off).

    There are tuk-tuks in Kampong Cham, but as the city is not nearly as heavily touristed than others in Cambodia, such as Phnom Penh or Siem Reap, there won't be many of these.

    Some of the larger hotels and guesthouses (such as the Mekong Hotel) will rent you bicycles, but these are next to useless, as they are too slow to see anything meaningful in a day, and if yours leaves your sight for an extended period of time, you won't see it again.

    See

    Kampong Cham isn't a city chock full of tourist attractions, but it's colonial charm and atmosphere will endear itself to you. There are a few temples to see in the area, including one of the country's mass graves.

  • '''Nokor Wat'''. An Angkorian temple dating from the 11th century, containing a standard assortment of Angkor architecture. Some of the mausoleums are open to tourists and contain piles of bones and skulls from the Khmer Rouge's genocidal reign. Inside one of the buildings is a very elaborate series of wall paintings, depicting torture and executions (of a religious nature), followed by scenes of heaven and the afterlife. This is not always an accessible building, as a Monk has to unlock it for you to enter. He usually does, though your driver may ask you to refrain. To get there by bicycle follow the road to Phnom Penh for about 1 km and turn left when you see a dusty road going down through a gate (there's also a sign). The visit to this site can easily be combined with a trip to the mountains Pros and Srei.
  • If you are interested in traditional Cambodian dances, there is a daily performance at 5 p.m. in the Wat Nokor (Nokor Bachey Temple) by the children and teenagers looked after and educated by BSDA, a Non Governmental Oranization (NGO) located at the temple site and managed by the monks. Entrance is free, donations are certainly welcome. No need for reservations.
  • There is also a '''French lookout tower''' on the other side of the river, once used for monitoring river traffic. It's still standing but in a decaying state. You can climb the stairs inside the tower and have a good view on the bridge, the Mekong and the small village next to the tower. The stairs are difficult and dangerous to climb, however.
  • An abandoned '''US airstrip''' that has been used by B52 bombers is a short distance west of town. To get there take the Highway 7 to Phnom Penh for about 3 km. Just before the factory on the left hand side (looks a bit like a prison) there is a dirt road going to the right between street vendors and two red-white striped poles. Follow this road for about 2.5 km. There is not much left to see apart from the pavement of the airstrip and two decaying buildings next to it - a pillbox and the control tower probably. Leaving the airstrip on the left (west) will eventually lead to Mountain Pros and Srey. Going right (east) to the end of the strip and turning right again will lead you back to Kompong Cham.
  • Do

    Kampong Cham is a sleepy provincial capital, and as such there isn't a whole lot to actually do, and those seeking plenty of activities to keep themselves occupied will become bored within a day.

  • '''The Bamboo Bridge''' and '''Koh Paen''', located a few blocks south of the bridge spanning the Mekong, is a solid bamboo structure built to Koh Paen island across the Mekong. On the other side is endless Cham and Khmer villages, entirely poor mounted on stilts. This is a great place to drive along if you want to check out the people of the land. The bamboo bridge can even withstand trucks, so don't worry about whatever you're taking, just be careful not to fall into the river.
  • West of the city are a pair of '''mountains''', with temples on top of them. To get there follow the Highway 7 to Phnom Penh for about 7 km and turn right when you see the hill on the right hand side, a gate and a road leading to the top. This is Mountain Pros. Take the road leaving to the right at about half way to the top of Mountain Pros to go to Mountain Srey. It makes an easy ride on a bicycle but road traffic can be heavy (for Cambodian standards). The '''Mountain Pros''' has a dull peak and is approximately 30 metres tall. There are a series of temples at the top, with the centrepiece being a five pagoda temple. There are outlying temples, most of which are ruined and falling apart. Sip at a sugar cane juice from one of the many stalls on the top while watching the monkeys fooling around and stealing bananas from the vendors tables. The '''Mountain Srey''' has 308 steps running up it, with a ruined temple at the top. There are no monks in this one, but there are several women and old men who collect donations from visitors. Between the two mountains lies one of the country's many killing fields where the Khmer Rouge dumped countless bodies, though in this case it's nothing more than a cement shed and a pile of bones.
  • [http://www.bsda-cambodia.org/index.htm Buddhism and Society Development Association],N__ 5, Nokor Bachey Temple, Ampil Village, Ampil Commune, Kampong Siem District is a registered NGO running several charitable projects for the local community. This includes a street children's theatre, a mushroom farm, education programs on HIV and drugs. There are opportunities for volunteering your help
  • Buy

    Kampong Cham features a few markets, but the best is the one the locals use. It features all sorts of food, ranging from standard mangoes and other fruits, to pig heads and live fish. As with all other food places in the area, use common sense when buying here, as there are health hazards to the unsuspecting Westerner. It's just down the road from the Mekong Crossing restaurant, but stalls only open during daylight hours. Some food and juice stalls stay open until late, i.e. 9 pm.

  • '''Cambodia Public Bank''' (5-7, Ph Angduong, coming from the bridge turn right at the roundabout from where it is about 200 m) exchange money and has an ATM accepting VISA, MasterCard and Maestro. This is the last ATM when heading north until Pakse in Lao.
  • '''Canadia Bank''', not to be confused with Canada, this bank is wholly Cambodian owned. This particular branch doesn't take baht, and exchanges money at a slightly poorer rate (approximately 4,000 riel to the USD) than you'll get at your guesthouse or on the street. They will cash traveller cheques and offer free advances on MasterCards. Best to avoid this one unless you need to replenish your supply of American cash while you're in town.
  • '''Acleda Bank''' (31-33, Ph Khemarak Phomin) also has an ATM but doesn't yet accept international cards. They can change dollars and Thai baht only but they accept traveller cheques. Western Union services are also available.
  • '''Money changers''' are available throughout the city, particularly in and around the markets - look out for packets of money on display. They will give you a slightly better rate than the banks but you have to ask around for the best deal. Some of them do also change other currencies than dollars such as Thai baht and Vietnamese dong. Occasionally, other western currencies are changed as well but expect a poor rate. It is not possible to change Lao kip.
  • '''Internet cafes''', there are a couple of internet cafes around town, especially on Ang Duong Street between the market and the bridge over the Mekong. The going rate is 2,500 riel per hour.
  • Eat

  • '''Mekong Crossing''', 12 Pasteur Street, ''012''-432427, on the road between the food market and the riverbank. A popular (at least among foreigners) restaurant run by an American expat, this small place serves up a variety of western foods, including burgers, pasta, and pizza. Though it does serve "khmer" food, it's heavily westernized as well. Service tends to be slow, even by Khmer standards. Costlier than most, but at no more than $5 USD per dish, it's not going to burn a hole in your moneybelt.
  • '''Lazy Mekong Daze''', Ph Sihanouk (at the riverside), is very similar to Mekong Crossing. The style of the place as well as the menu targets mainly foreign customers.Since last april, thee new french owner welcome you with a new choice of dishes and cocktails. You have also a free pool table and good music.
  • '''Hao An''', ''012''-941234 - Large restaurant on Monivong Blvd. Very tourist friendly, and serves plenty of genuine Khmer food, as well as other Asian cuisine. Excellent place to lounge about and drink beer, and good for shared dishes. Most dishes fetch for around $2-$3 USD.
  • '''San Te Hap Rest'''. Southeast side of the market in front of pharmacy. Cheap, tasty tofu and seafood dishes for around 2,000 to 4,000 riel. Try the seaweed curry.
  • '''Spien Thmei Restaurant''', Ph Preah Bat Sihanouk. Down the road from the Mekong Hotel, Spien Thmei Restaurant (New Bridge Restaurant) is your standard Khmer and Asian restaurant. It's quite large, with oversized doors that never close as long as it's open, though without a doubt you'll remember this place for it's whacky menu. The food is of great quality, but rarely matches what's on the menu. Still, since it's good food regardless of what arrives at your table and you aren't charged more (or perhaps because the staff don't speak much English), be a good patron and don't complain.
  • Drink

  • '''Riverside Beers''', in the late afternoon and early evening, food and drink stalls set up shop here opposite the Mekong Hotel right on the riverfront. Trees line the side of the road, making it a great place to pitch up a hammock, crack open a bottle of Angkor Beer, and strike up a conversation with any of the motodop drivers who will congregate here (of course they'll be asking you what your plans are and where you're going the next day). Beers are 2,000 riel a pop, and any of the stands will stay open as late as you want to sell drinks to you.
  • '''Fresh sugar cane juice''' is sold on literally every corner. Some of the sugar cane presses are engine driven others require manually turning the wheel. It's fun to watch and makes a refreshing drink. Try out a few vendors since the taste is always a bit different (about 1000 riel a glass).
  • Sleep

    There are hotels and guesthouses offering decent accommodation options. Although a large number of guesthouses can be found around town, the decent places are concentrated at or close to the riverside. For 5 USD you can get a fan room of a comfortable size with private bathroom (cold water) and TV. There are many more guesthouses around town than mentioned here (especially near the market). They are sometimes (but by no means always) 1$ or 2$ cheaper than a fan room in a hotel but offer tiny and dull rooms in some cases more often rented out by the hour than by night. They are rather a last resort if everything else is fully booked or if you are really on the cheap of the cheap.

  • '''Mekong Hotel''', #56 Samdach Pann Rd., ''042-''941536. The best, in terms of quality, hotel in town, and good value for your money, even if you are travelling during the peak season. To find the hotel from the roundabout at the bridge, head north until you get to the food market, turn right until you get to the riverbank, turn left, and it's the big yellow building, impossible to miss. Rooms have fans, TV (with the best range of stations in town), and a private bathroom with hot water and optional air conditioning. Considering how this hotel is so much better than virtually every guesthouse in town, many end up here. Sometimes tour groups fill all the rooms but in general you don't need a reservation. Most rooms are doubles. Make sure you ask for a view of the Mekong river, as the only view from the windows on the other side of the building is of piles of garbage. $5-10 (''fan room - air conditioning'').
  • '''Mittapheap Hotel''', Ph Kosmak Neary Roth (between the roundabout and the riverside). The outside of the hotel looks better than it is in the inside. Still it is one of the better options in town. The rooms are of a comfortable size and come with a fan, cold shower and TV and optional aircon and hot shower. $5-10 (''fan room - air conditioning'').
  • '''Leupviraksa Hotel''' (coming from the bridge over the Mekong, turn left at the roundabout from where it is about 150 m). The standard is almost identical to the Mittapheap Hotel. It is mainly the view from the upper floor rooms that is better. The drawback is its location a bit outside of the centre. The rooms are okay and come with a fan, cold shower and TV and optional aircon and hot shower. $5-10 (''fan room - air conditioning'').
  • '''Phnom Prosh Hotel ''', Ph Kosmak Neary Roth (at the roundabout). They have windowless fan rooms with cold shower and TV for 6$ and better aircon rooms (with windows) for 12$. Cleanliness could be better as well as the service from the staff. It might be a place to consider if the other options are full.
  • '''Monorom Hotel ''', the pink building just behind the Mekong hotel. The room rates are 5$ for a basic fan room with private bathroom and TV and 10$ for a aircon room or a luxury fan room. This place seems to be very popular but probably not for the quality of the rooms but rather the massage services provided. The staff hardly speaks any English. It might be a place to consider if the other options are full.
  • '''Kim Srun Guesthouse''', PH Sihanouk (at the Riverside), ''012-''941507. The best of the guesthouses. Rooms come with fan, cold shower and TV. While the windowless single rooms (4$) are merely okay, the double rooms (5$) are much better value for money. Compared to other guesthouses the rooms are large (about the size you can expect in the hotels around) and there is a nice balcony with good views of the river.
  • '''Spean Thmey Guesthouse''', PH Sihanouk (at the Riverside). The rooms are basic but okay. Price range is 3$-5$ depending on single, double and amenities.
  • '''Serey Pheap Guesthouse''', #110, Route #7, ''012-''864565. Very large and good quality rooms. A quiet, family-run establishment with staff that will bend over backwards to please you and your cohorts. $3-$4 (''single-double, TV and air conditioning extra'').
  • Rana Country Home Stay. rey Siam village. 12-686240. ttp://rana-cambodia.blogspot.com/. hone for reservation : 7am-noon. Traditional Khmer house, home cooked meals with home grown food in a country setting. A couple of pleasant walks can be taken from there. The place is located 7km over the bridge in Kampong Cham, on the main highway to Kratie. Phone or email in advance due to a current occupancy of 5 people. $18/per person/perday. For full info and updates go to rana-cambodia.blogspot.com</sleep>

    Get out

    Kampong Cham features road links with most major Cambodian cities, including Phnom Penh. Since many travellers who pass through here are on their way north to Kratie and other areas, the best thing to do is to simply hop on a bus to wherever it is you are going. If you have your own transportation, just get out and drive. The National Highway 7 is in good condition all the way up to the border with Lao.

    Bus

    The bus station is on the main road. From the roundabout, walk southwest, on the right side. You buy your ticket at the counter.

  • '''Bus Hoh Wa Genting''', Telephone 012-923551. Approximately 7,000 riel, with buses leaving throughout the day at 7:30, 8:10, 9:00, 10:00, 12:30, 14:00, 15:00, 16:00 for a 3-4 hour trip.
  • '''GST Express''', on the west end of the boulevard,
  • '''Rith Mony''', on Highway 7 about 200 m from the Mekong bridge roundabout, has buses to a couple of destinations including Kratie and Phnom Penh. It is generally a bit cheaper than other bus companies but the buses are also a bit older.
  • Most '''Minibuses''' and other non-Bus transports leave from or stop for a short time at the petrol station or just on the roadside of Highway 7 close to the Mekong bridge roundabout
  • Boat

    There are two types of boats in Kampong Cham (really all of Cambodia), the slow boats and the fast boats. The slow boats are obviously slower than the other option, but are safer.

  • '''Slow boats''' don't have a pier, but simply land on the muddy river bank north of the bridge. Buy your tickets (for approximately 12,000 riel to either Phnom Penh or Kratie) underneath the huge cigarette advertisement. You can sit either on the roof or inside, and regardless of whichever you choose, you're in for a noisy, crowded ride. Get on the boat 1 hour prior to departure. To Phnom Penh the trip takes about 2-3 hours, to Kratie about 5-6 hours, with both boats departing throughout the day.
  • '''Fast boats''' are located on the riverside road, 20 minutes north from Route #7. These are more comfortable. As a result of the competition with road transport, however, there are no scheduled boats going to Kratie and Stung Treng anymore. Occasinally, there might be a fast boat doing the run. Kampong Cham to Phnom Penh costs 15,000 riel, and takes less than 2 hours, while to Kratie costs 20,000 riel and takes 3-4 hours.
  • Two Wheels

  • '''Bicycle and Motorbike''', Kratie is about a 100 km ride from Kompong Cham along the Mekong. It is mostly a dirt road in good condition so it is possible even by bicycle to reach Kratie in one day. Otherwise stop in Chlong for the night. Take road 223 north out of Kampong Cham up to Stung Trang (Preaek Barang), then take the ferry over the Mekong (1500 riel) and continue along road 338. It should also be possible to first cross the bridge in Kompong Cham and take road 338 from there but this stretch of road is in a very bad condition (although the first few kilometers are smooth) and not recommended.
  • Border Crossing to Vietnam

    The border from Trapeang Phlong in Cambodia to Xa Mat in Vietnam is open to international tourists. On the Cambodian side you have to organise your own transport either all the way from Kampong Cham or take first a Kratie bound bus to Krek and then a motorbike for the remaining 14 km to the border. On the Vietnamese side there are regular public busses running to Tay Ninh a few hundred metres from the border. Visas are not available at the border and the formalities may take a while. Be aware that people in Kampong Cham may tell you that this is not an international border although it is since January 2006.