'''Cape Maclear''' (aka Chembe) is a small fishing village on Lake Nyasa (Lake Malawi) in Malawi. It has one dirt road leading into (and straight out of) town. Along this road, there are a few hostels, some dive shops, a handful of vendors selling curios and fruit and a few bars. The pace of life here is . . . very . . . slow.

Understand

Cape Maclear is a fishing village of about 10,000. The fishermen live in the center of the town, while either end of the village caters to tourists. In order to get from Steven's Guest House, for example, to Fat Monkeys, you must go through the town. This is not a problem - in fact, it's a great way to see how the average Malawian lives. It can just be a bit surprising when the road opens up, and you see a village.

Get in

From the bus station in Lilongwe, take a minibus to Monkey Bay for a few bucks. Flag down a pick-up that will take you the rest of the way into Cape Maclear, for just a few more dollars. (If you get stuck, you can always stay in Monkey Bay.) Although the trip is fairly short, you should budget the entire day.

Get around

Cape Maclear is very small. A short stroll will get you wherever you need to go.

See

  • There is a beautiful '''beach''' to take in.
  • The '''missionary graves''' on the north end of town. These are the final resting places of the first missionaries who died in 1875.
  • Do

    Frankly, '''doing as little as possible''' is the whole point of Cape Maclear, but there ''are'' actual activities, in case you get bored.

  • Gecko Lounge. 265 09 787322. imongeckolounge@eml.cc" url="http://www.geckolounge.net. Best place to view the Malawian Sunsets are from the Gecko Lounge Veranda deck - Fantastic Food, Best Stocked Bar in the area & Biggest parties on the lake - private chalets and double rooms available as well - the Kampango Banger Cocktail is famous for causing many hurt locker hangovers!

  • Kayak Africa. 27 21 783 1955. etsgo@kayakafrica.co.za. 27 21 706 9771. ttp://www.kayakafrica.net. Runs day trips from Cape Maclear. Since the Lake is pretty calm, boat trips can be rewarding. Kayak Africa is the only PADI registered club in Cape Maclear. It offers''' Don't forget to arrange with one of the beach boys for an evening '''fish dinner on the beach'''. It's a lot of fun. Be careful, though -- they're likely to come back and ask for more money, for any number of reasons. Be firm but respectful.

    For restaurants try:

  • '''Gecko Lounge[http://www.geckolounge.net/malawi-resort/food-and-drink]''' is the place to be of the moment - fresh fish from the lake, variety of Western dishes & daily specials.
  • '''Fat Monkeys''' is an open-air restaurant with a cool beach-vibe on the south end of the village. They have Western-styled food (try the pizza) and sometimes play host to lively parties at night.
  • Drink

    '''Gecko Lounge'''[http://www.geckolounge.net/malawi-resort/gecko-photo-gallery] is the biggest and best stocked bar on the lake - monthly events take place, dance floor, Veranda Viewing Deck, DJ's, Live music, cocktails, wide variety of liqors, shots & shooters - found towards the northern part of the village.

    '''Fat Monkeys''' [http://www.fatmonkeys.com ]is another place to go for drinks.

    If you want a quiet night, buy some beers on the quiet side of the village and watch the moon rise over the Lake.

    Sleep

    Budget

  • Stevens' Guest House. 1301. 3/night.. Among the quirkiest options for accommodation, offering simple, cheap rooms, including a bathroom, mosquito net, and double bed! Mr. Steven is a gruff, elderly Malawian man who must have presaged Cape Maclear as a relaxing, hedonistic destination decades ago.

  • Gaia House. 265 (0)9 374 631. ttp://www.gaia-house.com/. ormitory $5/night, twin rooms $6/night (MK3,000), family room $10/night (MK5,000), camping $3/night. ontact@gaia-house.com. This small new establishment offers dormitory accommodation, twin rooms, and a family room for 4 people as well as camping on their site. All rooms at Gaia House share public toilets and shower areas. The small restaurant serves good food (home made bread and cakes!) with nightly specials. This is a great place for families with younger children. Internet (wireless) available.

    Mid-range

  • Fat Monkeys. 265 (0) 9948501. ttp://www.fatmonkeys.com/. atMonkeys@africa-online.net. There are various types of accomodation available: standard double rooms, en-suite double rooms, lake view family chalets and camping. Rates start at 20 U$D per room per night; 5U$D for camping. Situated on the beach with an excellent bar, very friendly staff and good cheap food. Activities such as boat trips, kayaking and scuba diving can be arranged by Fat Monkeys (or by the beach boys). Fat Monkeys has long been popular with backpackers. FatMonkeys is a Skyband wireless Internet hotspot.

  • Gecko Lounge. 265 (0)9787322. imongeckolounge@eml.cc. amily sized, self contained en-suite lakeside Chalets $70 ($35pp) double & then can sleep a further two people in the bunk bed for $10 pp & there are two further Double rooms with en-suite called Baobab & Acacia @$50 per room plus there is $10pp per night for an en-suite 11 bed dorm as well. Gecko Lounge has a lively bar & quality restaurant as well as WIFI internet access & laptop hire, book exchange, speedboat, hammocks, braii areas. Diving can be organised from here (as long as people have their open water PADI etc) and there are Kayaks and snorkel Gear for hire as well.

  • Cape Mac Lodge. 9621279. ttp://capemaclodge-malawi.com/. ate: includes dinner, bed and breakfast $67.50 pppn (twin/double), $91.50 pppn (single). ogerl@africa-online.net. Situated next to Fat Monkeys is this lovely new establishment offering elegantly decorated rooms (with lofts) for singles, couples or families. Some of the things that set this place apart from the others is 1) the French cuizine (truly looked after by a real, live French woman with years of experience in Africa) and 2) a small inground pool just perfect for lounging with a drink in your hand from the well stocked bar and restaurant. Book through Jambo Africa http://www.jambo-africa.com/cape_mac_lodge.htm

  • Chembe Lodge. 265 996-5171. 265 9960-707 . round $60/night. A chalet or tent on the beach, with en-suite chalets available. Watersports equipment and a speed boat can be hired.

    Splurge

  • Danforth Yachting. 265 996-0077. 265 996-0707. round $150/night including activities.

    Stay healthy

    Remember that Malawi suffers from malaria and in this part of Malawi there is a high risk all year round. Talk to your doctor before you go, wear insect repellent and cover your skin while it's dark, and sleep under a mosquito net.

    Some parts of the lake are contaminated with '''flatworms''', which can cause '''schistosomiasis''' (bilharzia). The parasites enter your body through the skin, so just getting your feet wet could make you sick. However, you are not guaranteed to acquire it, even if you swim daily. Among the symptoms (which might not appear for months after exposure) is painless, bloody urine. Bilharzia is easily treated, but convincing a Western doctor that you have bilharzia can be tough; explain that you've been to Malawi and ask for a test.

    '''Don't drink the water from the taps''', it comes straight from the lake.

    Contact

    Cape Maclear has recently been blanketed by a '''Skyband hotspot'''. You are now able to browse the Internet at lightning fast speeds from any one of the lodges on the bay. Access is controlled by the purchase of access cards at a very reasonable price. For more information on the service and locations in Malawi log on to http://www.skybandhotspots.com

    Get out

    Cape Maclear has a reputation for being a sort of ''traveler's black hole.'' In other words, once you get there, you won't want to leave.

    If you want more beach time, you might try '''Senga Bay''', '''Monkey Bay''', or '''Nkhata Bay'''.

  • '''Zomba''' - if you've gotten a little bit sunburnt, you can head south to the former capital of Malawi, and a beautiful, wooded mountain-town that feels very little like Africa.
  • '''Lake Malawi National Park'''