Though not too well-known outside Japan, Yakushima is a popular destination for Japanese tourists, hence the infrastructure (hotels, restaurants, transportation) is good.
The island's forests are not virgin. Hundreds of years ago, most of its ancient trees were cut for lumber. The stumps remain everywhere, often uncorrupted and covered with moss or sprouting other trees, including second and third-generation cedar in the continually regenerating forest. The few remaining cedar trees over 1000 years old are termed ''yakusugi'' and each is revered and has been given its own name. The largest, called the ''Jomon sugi'', is estimated to be between 2100 years old (based on a core sample) and 7200 years old (based on its size).
The pristine ''yakusugi'' forests were an inspiration for acclaimed animator Hayao Miyazaki's 1997 epic ''Princess Mononoke''.
Because of the remoteness and difficulty of the terrain, there are relatively few tourists. Those who do come come to walk the forests. The well-trod hiking trails are entirely free of garbage. Visitors need to continue to ensure that no waste is left behind.
Human activity being a relatively small part of island life, there is abundant wildlife, notably a large deer and monkey population which goes about its life unconcerned by any humans in the vicinity. Wild monkeys should not, of course, be approached. Unlike some places where monkeys and humans interact, Yakushima monkeys are not fed by residents or tourists and so do not approach cars or persons for food. Don't feed the monkeys and this happy state of affairs will continue.
There are a few bilingual English/Japanese information signs on the hiking trails and in museums. As always the tourist information centers, particularly in Miyanoura, are extremely helpful although English may not be spoken.
There are ferry connections to Kagoshima and Shimama.
The "Toppy"[http://www.toppy.jp/fare_time/kagoshima_yakushima.html] and "Rocket"[http://www.cosmoline.jp/] Jetfoil ferries can be taken from Kagoshima; they both take approximately 2 hours depending on if there are stops at Ibusuki and Tanegashima. They cost approximately 7000 yen and 5000 yen respectively and run 4 times a day, although they may stop for bad weather. They can arrive at either Miyanoura port or Anbo port, so take care to plan the following transport and accommodation accordingly.
There are also infrequent buses to the entrances of the hiking trails in the island's interior: twice daily to the Arakawa trail (''Jomon sugi'') and Yakusugiland, and four times daily to Shiratani Unsuikyo.
The bus times from Miyanoura port are 08:00, 08:20, 10:00, 11:20, 13:00, 13:30, 15:30, and returns from Shiratani Unsuikyo are at 09:00, 09:30, 11:00, 12:00, 14:10, 16:00, 16:10 (as of May 2009). Fares are determined by the distance traveled and are not cheap — for example, the Miyanoura–Arakawa trail head is 1,400 yen one way.
Car rental starts at around 5,000 yen per day.
Mountain bike hire in Miyanoura (+81 (0)997-42-0091 and -0944).
There are several '''waterfalls''' on the island, including Ooko-no-taki which is justly rated as one of Japan's best. It is on the remoter southwest coast of the island, a 60- and 90-minute bus ride from Anbo and Miyanoura respectively. The 90-meter falls are easily accessible, being a short walk away from the main highway on a paved road, and visitors can approach the base for a good view. Those wanting to get closer and wetter can scramble over boulders to the plunge pool.
If you leave the towns, villages and main highway, you are almost guaranteed close encounters with the resident '''deer''' (''shika'') and '''monkeys''' (''saru''). Both varieties are small. If you have a car, the most accessible place to see them is the short section of coastal road in the west (south of Nagata) that has not been widened into a highway and where buses do not run. Here, deer often scramble down to the road, and in the afternoons monkeys groom each other on the warm asphalt, stopping all traffic.
On several beaches, including Nagata-inaka-hama Beach, '''giant turtles''' come ashore to lay their eggs. This is a rare occurrence from the end of May to August and very early in the morning (1AM-2AM). Only red flashlights may be used so as not to scare away the turtles (who are blind to red light). Two ecotour centers offer guided tours: Native Vision (Miyanoura), ''+81 (0)997'' 42-0091, [http://www.native-vision.com/]. Outdoor Yakushima Guide System (Anbo), ''+81 (0)997'' 46-3220, [http://www1.ocn.ne.jp/~iwakawa/guide.html]. From \8000 per person.
'''The Shiratani Unsuikyo forest''': This can be reached by car up the recently widened road, or by bus from Miyanoura (40 minutes; 530 yen). Admission to the trail is 300 yen, to cover maintenance. A map and suggested routes based on your time constraints are provided at the trail head. There are two main hiking options: a 3 to 4-hour route through an awe-inspiring forest with a half-dozen or so ''yakusugi'' and more moss than you can shake a stick at; and a 30-minute there-and-back hike to the magnificent 3000-year-old cedar called ''Yayoi sugi''. The longer route begins with a series of wooden steps and walkways past waterfalls. A loop to the right takes in the ''Yayoi sugi'' but it's recommended to leave this until last. Keep going ahead for 15 minutes until you come to a suspension bridge. Don't cross the bridge but walk ahead into the forest proper where the trail climbs past mossy stumps and ancient trees, and drops down to boulder-strewn drinking streams, leading you deep into another silent world. Deer and monkeys graze and feed unafraid. After about two hours of walking with stops to take in the natural marvels of the forest, the trail divides, with an option to turn right to Shiratani hut and ''Mononoke-hime no Mori'', a part of the forest named after Hayao Miyazaki's anime movie ''Princess Mononoke.'' You miss nothing by turning left here and heading back via the original Edo-period Kusugawa trail. After an hour's walk, it ends in the trail's old granite steps down to the suspension bridge. Cross the bridge, turn right, take the loop up to the left to ''Yayoi sugi'' if you still have the energy, and return down to the trailhead. This hike is not especially arduous, and is arguably the most beautiful on the island.
'''Yakusugiland''': In spite of its theme-park name, this is another natural area for walking in the forest among ''yakusugi,'' with a variety of hiking options based on time (there are 30, 50, 80 and 150 minute round trip trails). It is less accessible than Shiratani Unsuikyo, being further from the coast with a narrower access road and fewer buses.
'''To and from ''Jomon sugi''''': The usual way to approach the giant tree is via the Arakawa trail, a round trip of approximately 10 hours. There is no parking at the trail head, which can only be reached by a complex series of buses. First, drive, or take a bus or taxi to the Yakusugi Museum (''Yakusugi Shizenkan'') Complex. The trip from here to the trail head at Arakawa Tozanguchi bus stop is on two further buses with the change halfway and a combined fare of 1010 yen. The first, easy part of the hike is along the tracks of the railroad used to haul out cedar logs. After about two hours, the trail turns off the rails and from here it's a hard two-hour climb up the well-maintained path, passing ''Wilson's Stump,'' the huge hollow remains of a logged tree, and on up to ''Jomon sugi'' itself. Many visitors make the hike in a group with a guide. This isn't necessary as the trail is well-marked, but a guide enriches the experience by pointing out and giving you the (Japanese-language) inside information on the history and landmarks. Food and water must be carried in, but water can be replenished halfway along the railroad and at the drinking streams near the destination. Solid walking shoes or light hiking boots are best, with sneakers possible if you're careful. It rains at least part of most days, so pack an umbrella or plastic rain jacket. Because of the hiking time and time required to get to the trails from the coast, hikers often start out before 5 am. If you have not reached ''Jomon sugi'' by 1 pm, it may be advisable to turn around or you may by caught on the trail by night fall. An alternative way to ''Jomon sugi'' is starting at Shiratani Unsuikyo. This route begins with the hike through the Shiratani Unsuikyo forest (see above), taking the right fork to Mononoke-hime-no-Mori, then climbing steeply toward (but not to) Taikoiwa rock, and going over the Tsujitoge pass before descending to join the Arakawa trail where it turns off the railroad, for a 12-hour round trip.
'''Longer hikes''' with overnight stays are available for the adventurous. The hiking trails are among the most pristine and lonely in Japan. The hike to the top of the highest peaks Miyanoura-dake (1867 meters) and Nagata-dake (1886 meters) and back is tough, typically requiring two to four days depending on the route you select. There are a few mountain huts along the way, but they are nothing more than empty structures so bring your own bedding and provisions. It will rain.
There are a few white sand '''beaches''' with clear water at various places on the coast. If there is no lifeguard, swim with caution. Nagata-no-hama beach has a small reef system nearby so it is possible to see some marine life. At the southern/western end of this beach there are some showers available for use.
'''Scuba''' is also available.
Seaside onsen can be enjoyed at Kaichuu onsen_i_C______) in Hirauchi_i____), and a few kilometers west at Yudomari onsen below picturesque Yudomari village. Both have 100 yen entrance fees, placed in a trust box. Kaichuu onsen is only available for a few hours before and after low tide. It is also very well-known, and the constant flow of visitors can make it a less-than-relaxing place to bathe. Far better is Yudomari onsen (open 24 hours). The tiny main pool has a bamboo screen that offers a modicum of separation between the sexes. But keep walking down the concrete path to the left of this bath and you will come to an even smaller, more private pool. Between soaks, slip down to the sea for a swim among the rocks. Just outside the entrance to Yudomari onsen, a small bar serves cold beer and other drinks and snacks.
On the coast road south of Anbo, by the parking lot for Toroki Falls, a produce center sells fruit in season and other local goods and produce including tankan juice, ice cream and sherbet. (The Toroki Falls are a 5-minute hike away. They fall directly into the sea, but are underwhelming.)
Shiki no Yado Onoaida (_l_G___h_@___V__) [http://www.h3.dion.ne.jp/~yasuakim/] in Onoaida (___V__) is a small family run lodge with a choice of Japanese style rooms, Western rooms or cottages. The price is around 8000 yen per person, per night including breakfast and dinner.