'''Havelock Island''' (Hindi: ?????? ?????) [http://tourism.andaman.nic.in/islands.htm] is the most visited of the Andaman Islands. It's becoming popular for its beaches, laid back vibe and great scuba diving.
Understand
The Indian government has been advocating eco-friendly tourism development on Havelock for a while now, and while it's the most visited of the islands it sees only a fraction of the visitors that crowd other island destinations such as Thailand. The pace of life is slow, the locals are friendly and still not too affected by tourism, and the facilities are moderately basic for the most part. While many of the lodges have 'resort' in their names, none come even close, thankfully.
The beaches have been given a rather boring numbering system instead of names, although some names like Radhanagar are in popular use. The arrival port is at Beach #1, the junction at the center is Beach #3 (aka Govind Nagar), the junction near Dolphin Resort is Beach #5 (Vijay Nagar) and so on. Govind Nagar, the main "town", is small and has only a handful of shops and local ''dhabas''. Most accommodation is grouped along the road from Beach #3 to Beach #5. From the 'junction' near Beach #3 a road veers off to Beach #7 (Radhanagar Beach), the most beautiful spot on the island.
Mid-January until mid-May sees the best weather, and often the best diving conditions. The days are mostly sunny at this time of year, and the sea sometimes flat enough to reflect the clouds. The monsoon usually hits around late May, lasting until the end of July, and is probably the worst time to visit the island – strong winds, frequent rain and low visibility underwater. August thru November see some occasional showers and slightly rougher seas, but diving can still be great at this time of year. The weather often takes a turn for the worse for the month of December through early January.
Havelock island does not have an ATM and almost none of the hotels are able to perform card transactions, although Barefoot Scuba, Barefoot at Havelock Jungle Resort and Island Vinnies can accept credit cards. Make sure you take plenty of cash with you from Port Blair. Also, it is hard to buy some items in the market - differing factors of sun cream can be hard to find, as can mosquito repellent.
Get in
'''Ferries''' are the major way on or off the island. 2-3 arrive daily from Port Blair (2-4 hours) and one from Rangat, one of which comes via Neil Island. Schedules vary according to day and season, so enquiry locally, and see Andaman and Nicobar Islands about the differences between the ship types.
In busy seasons, ferries can get booked up. You can buy tickets yourself from the Port Blair ferry office on arrival, or resorts will often offer to pre-book your tickets for the journey there and back, which you can either pick up from a travel agency on Port Blair, or they will send someone to meet you prior to your ferry. This is a good idea particularly if you're trying to make it from your flight to your resort on the same day, as the schedules don't leave much room for error. If you don't have a return ticket, try and get your resort to book - or you will need to get the Havelock port early and elbow your way to the front of the queue as the Indians do, and even then the ferry can still be fully booked with all of the resorts taking the tickets. On the return, the 4:30pm ferry gets booked up first, so it's often safer to get the 10am if you need to be sure of making onward connections.
Flight times from Port Blair to mainland India sometimes are changed without warning - including being brought forward. So it's definitely worth calling the day before to confirm your onward flights. Also be prepared to stay couple of days more than planned in Havelock because the boats to Port Blair will be cancelled if the weather is bad.
Helicopter service (+91-3192-233601) exists in theory, but only runs a couple days per week and isn't very reliable. Fares are around Rs 850.
Get around
'''Walking''' is the most common form of transport.
Local '''buses''' and '''shared jeeps''' ply the 2 main roads between the port (on Beach #1), Radhanagar Beach (Beach #7), and Beach #5 where the bulk of the accommodation is located. There is a local bus for Radhanagar waiting at beach #1 at around the time the ferry (10-10:30AM) arrives. The cost of a ticket from Beach #1 to Radhanagar is around Rs 6, shared jeeps a little more. Try to get off the ferry quickly and walk out of the parking area (where all the taxis and autorickshaws are parked) to catch the bus, although foreigners tend to have to stay back a bit to complete their permit formalities. The journey from Beach #1 to Radhanagar is around 30-45 minutes.
'''Auto-rickshaws''' are also available. Fares are more or less standardized: from Beach #5 resorts to the market costs Rs.20, from Beach #1 (the port) to Beach #5 Rs 50, and a return trip from the market to Radhanagar Beach (with waiting time) is Rs. 300. You can usually flag them down on one of the main roads, or at the market.
'''Bicycles, scooters and motorcycles''' are available for hire near the center of 'town' (Beach #3), or inquire at your guesthouse. A Bajaj scooter will run around Rs 200/day. Geared motorcycles are available for Rs 200/day and gearless scooters (Honda Activa etc.) for Rs 250. If you intend to hire for more than one day, then bargaining can bring down the price further.
See
'''Radhanagar Beach''' (Beach #7) is the most beautiful on the island and was rated as the best in Asia by ''Time'' in 2004. Gorgeous, silky white sand backed by a forest that provides welcome shade looks out over turquoise water, some stretches with a sandy bottom good for swimming and some with excellent coral reefs that are great for snorkeling – a great combination indeed. Sunsets here are often spectacular and it's a popular time to be at the beach, but be careful not to miss the last trucks back if you're not staying here. A man with an elephant walks through the forest occasionally, offering rides for a fee. Buses run throughout the day until sunset, as do auto-rickshaws and shared 4 wheel-drive trucks. There are a few food shacks where the road hits the beach, all of which rent snorkels and fins.
'''Elephant Beach''' is further north from Radhanagar and is popular with Indian tourists. The shoreline here was largely swept away by the 2004 tsunami and the beach is a fraction of what it used to be; however, the coral here is probably the best on the island, making this an excellent spot for snorkeling. It's reachable on foot from Beach #7 or by fishing boat from the east side of the island; many resorts arrange snorkeling and diving trips here. A path to the beach starts from the road to Radhanagar — look for a dip in the road on a curve where there will usually be a few motorbikes parked. Several paths head off from this point, ask around for the correct one. The walk is about 30 minutes at an easy pace with dry weather. Since the tsunami, the path ends in an expanse of un-inviting looking swampy water. Rather than attempting to go around, wade straight through it — the beach is only 100 meters straight ahead, the water is rarely above knee-height and the ground is solid. Wear sandals when crossing to avoid sharp shells. While snorkeling, keep an eye out for the glass-bottom boats!
Do
Scuba diving
Scuba diving is probably the biggest activity on the island other than lying around and eating great seafood. Both operators on Havelock, Barefoot Scuba and Dive India are [http://www.padi.com/ PADI] certified dive centers, provide good equipment and offer training up to instructor. They share pretty much all of the same discovered dive sites, and prices are more or less standardized at Rs.3000 for two dives, with a 10-15% discount for your own equipment.
The diving possibilities around the Andamans are vast and it feels that what has been discovered is only the beginning... and even that is pretty great. Look for more sites to open up soon. As of now Havelock is the main center for diving in the island chain. If you're an experienced diver, also enquire about dive expeditions, where they will take you out hunting for new and undiscovered sites. There's much to find – a manta cleaning station would be nice.
All that said, diving here is still a bit of a seat-of-the-pants operation. Diving is done off converted ''dungi'' fishing boats, with a rack for tanks and a tarp for shade. Powered by ear-splittingly loud and temperamental yet inefficient piston engines, journeys to dive sites regularly take up to two hours each way, more if the sea is choppy or the engine breaks down. In the event of an accident, the nearest recompression chamber is at the naval base in Port Blair, so it's wise to keep your diving profiles on the conservative side.
'''Barefoot Scuba''' [http://www.diveandamans.com], Cafe Del Mar, Beach #3.
'''DIVE India''' [http://www.diveindia.com], Island Vinnie's Tropical Beach Cabanas Resort, Beach #3.
'''Lacadives''' [http://www.lacadives.com/havelock.html], Silver Sands, Beach #3.
Snorkeling
Snorkeling is also popular, with several options.
Radhanagar Beach (Beach #7) has a couple of food shacks at the end of the road that rent out fins and masks for Rs 50/each. There are great reefs for snorkeling in both directions from the end of the road.
Elephant Beach also has some good snorkeling sites.
Both of the dive shops can also take along snorkelers to some of the off-shore sites.
Local fishermen offer daytrips and half day trips to different locations. South Button Island is particularly good as the reef is shallow, colorful and beautiful. It makes sense to get a group of 5-10 people together to share the cost of the boat.
Trekking
If you've had enough of the beach, try a little hot and sweaty jungle trekking. If you're into confluence hunting, you can find [http://confluence.org/confluence.php?visitid=15948 12__N 93__E] just 800 meters away from the end of beach #5. Guides can be arranged through resorts, or call Sanjit Dhali at tel. +91-94-74278303, +91-99-33234884; he's a local autorickshaw driver who knows the jungle trails like the back of his hand.
Buy
Govind Nagar has a few basic shops selling daily essentials plus a small pharmacy. If you pick up one of the ubiquitous Andaman & Nicobar T-shirts sold everywhere for Rs.50, take one with black printing, as white text bleeds off the first time you wash it.
Eat
Some food is grown on the island (like tasty bananas), but most vegetables and fruits are imported. The best thing to eat is the locally caught fresh seafood.
Budget
'''Dhabas''' near the junction at Beach #3 serve seafood and basic local Indian food, and are the cheapest way to eat on the island. There are also snack stands near here selling samosas, sweets and the like. More dhabas can be found near Radhanagar Beach (Beach #7), serving fresh sea food at reasonable prices; you may have to wait up to an hour for the food out here.
'''Catch of the Day''' is for sale near the port on Beach #1 in the afternoons, and you can have your guesthouse cook it up for a fee.
'''Pristine Beach Resort''', '''Orient Legend Resort''' and the others in the same vein all have restaurants serving the catch of the day, local Indian food and some traveler's favorites like french fries and chow mein.
Splurge
'''Red Snapper''' at the Wild Orchid Resort is the one of the better and most expensive restaurants on the island, serving freshly caught and well-prepared seafood and a selection of Indian and continental dishes. It's best to go from the specials board or ask your waiter for his recommendation. Lunch or dinner will run about Rs 300-600 per person.
'''Emerald Gecko''' is run by the same couple who run the Wild Orchid. The food is similarly tasty, the menu is much, much smaller, and it's a bit cheaper – dinner will probably run more around Rs 200.
Mahua. adhanagar Beach (Beach #7). s 600-700 per person. An Italian restaurant offering great lunch and dinner options, run by a native Italian chef couple Giulio di Anastasio and Enrica Cerchi. The salads and pastas are particularly good and the deserts are a must try. It's located near and managed by Barefoot Resort; however, it's soon scheduled to move to new digs near the ferry port.
Drink
'''Beer''' is available at most of the resorts and at the "English Beer & Wine Shop" near the port (it's open to all, not just Brits.)
Fresh '''coconuts''' are available around the island - after you drink the juice they'll be happy to whack it open so you can eat the flesh too.
Sleep
The majority of accommodation on offer are cheap palm-thatched beach huts.
Budget
The recent boom in tourism means that there is not always enough accommodation to meet demand — the majority of the places between Beaches #3 and #5 have huts for around Rs 200/night, so it makes sense to start at one end and work your way down looking for an available hut. In busier times you may end up pitching a tent if you have one, or sleeping in a hammock for a night or two until something frees up.
'''Pristine Beach Resort''' is one of the more popular. The restaurant serves good food and they're licensed to sell beer. Sea facing Huts and stilted cottages ranging Rs 200-1500.
'''Cafe del Mar''', Beach #3. Perennially popular melting pot. Has a range of options from tents and/or basic A-frame huts with sheets for doors (the cheapest option on the island) to deluxe sea-facing huts. Rs 200 to Rs 2000.
'''Orient Legend Resort''', Beach #5. Another popular cheapie with huts for Rs 200 and a basic restaurant. Has hammocks if everything else is full, Rs 50.
'''Sunrise Beach Resort''', Beach #5. Similar to Orient.
'''Island Camping''', operated by the Andaman Tourist Office, offers pre-setup tents on Beach #7 where the road meets the beach. Tents range from Rs 150-500. The more expensive ones come with private bath and toilet, though no hot water is available. Bookings must be made in advance at the Tourism Office in Port Blair.
'''El Dorado''', Beach #3. Quite new, huts with communal showers and toilets Rs 200. Huts with en suite toilet and shower Rs 500. Due to the place being quite new most huts are reasonably clean and well maintained. Reasonable restaurant, serves beer.
'''Gold India''', Beach #3. Another new-ish resort. Huts with en suite toilet and shower Rs 500. Average restaurant, serves alcohol.
Mid-range
'''Emerald Gecko''', at the end of Beach #5, [http://www.emerald-gecko.com/]. Quieter than some of the others and a little more expensive with slightly nicer huts. Also very popular, and has a great restaurant and friendly owner who can also arrange fishing trips. Huts Rs 500, bamboo bungalows Rs 1500, bamboo lodges Rs 2000.
'''Island Vinnie's Tropical Beach Cabanas and Dive Centre''', Beach #3, [http://www.islandvinnie.com] is also home of DIVEIndia. Accommodation is in either basic beach huts or safari-style tents, both of which are unfortunately starting to fall apart. Formerly great value, now starting to feel a bit overpriced for what you get. Food is overpriced and mediocre. Rs 450-2000.
'''Dolphin Beach Resort''' is a government run resort. It's sterile, ugly, and popular with Indian families. On the plus side if you can't live without a/c, then you can find it here in large huts for around Rs 1000, cheaper than you'll get elsewhere. There's a restaurant on site, and pre-booking in Port Blair is advised. Rs 500-2000.
Splurge
'''Wild Orchid Resort''', [http://www.wildorchidandaman.com]. Offers reasonable accommodation in the mid range (real beds, nice bathrooms, some with a/c), with a semi-private path through the jungle to a nice spot on #5 beach, with wooden sun-beds for hire. Also has a very good restaurant, the Red Snapper. Occasionally organize low-key evening beach parties/gatherings, with music and food. Rs 3000-4000 high season, Rs 1500-2000 low season.
'''Silver Sand''', [http://www.silversandhavelock.com/]. Probably the most expensive place on the island. Accommodation ranges from large rooms with en suite, TV and a/c, to whole two storey cottages suitable for families. Rooms are clean, in good condition, and decorated IKEA style. Does not come cheap however; rates start at Rs 4,500. Also the rooms are not very well soundproofed considering the price - hope for quiet neighbours unless you are booking an entire detached cottage for yourself - and the section of #5 beach is not the best, although it's only a short walk to nicer parts.
'''Barefoot Resort''', tel. +91-3192-236008, [http://www.barefootindia.com]. This eco-friendly resort is located in seclusion at the far end of Beach #7 (Radhanagar Beach), perhaps the most beautiful location on the Island. It offers spacious detached accommodation in independent fan-cooled and duplex fan-cooled Nicobari Cottages and Airconditioned Andaman Villas. Doubles vary from Rs 5300-15000 or more depending on type and season. It offers the islands only genuine Italian cuisine in its speciality restaurant by the beach "Mahua" (including a decent espresso) and also has great ''thalis'' and other authentic Indian fare on offer in its main restaurant.
Contact
Mail
There is a small post office next to the port at Beach #1.
Phones
Landlines are scarce, and with the exception of a couple of the nicer accommodation options, most places don't have a phone.
'''PCO/ISD's''' (phone booths) are located on Beach #5, near the junction at Beach #3 and near the port at Beach #1.
'''Mobile phones''' can be used in many parts of island. Service is provided by [http://www.bsnl.co.in BSNL] and [http://www.airtelworld.com Airtel].
Internet
Internet access on Havelock is extremely slow and unreliable, so don't count on it.
'''Pristine Beach Resort''' has a couple of computers which every once in a while are connected to the internet via a near-dead dial-up connection.
'''Anu's Internet Cafe''' has two computers set up in a shop just off the main road near Dolphin Resort in village no.3. It is not fast but still usable.
'''Island Vinnie's''' can burn photos onto cd's or dvd's for a fee, and claim to have non broad-band internet access.
Stay safe
'''Mosquitoes''' are a nuisance, particularly at dusk and after rain, and the Andaman Islands are malarial. Use mosquito repellent, wear long sleeves and long trousers in the evening, and sleep under a mosquito net.
'''Wild dogs''' can be a problem, especially along the beach at night – people are regularly bitten. You'd be well-advised to carry a stick to scare them off... or a handful of stones.
If you plan to be out until sunset or beyond it's a good idea to carry a flashlight (torch). It can get pretty dark, especially if there's no moon out, and the beaches are often backed by dense forest.
Beware of '''currents''' at Radhanagar Beach during monsoon (June - Sept). There have been two recorded accidents as people have been caught out by powerful waves during the monsoon months. Supposedly the authorities have taken action to employ trained lifeguards and put up watchtowers.
Beware of jagged edges of '''Bleached Coral''' at Beaches #2, #3 and #5 as the shallow beachfront waters on the northern coast of Havelock (the backpacker strip) is covered with this.
Get out
Neil Island – a smaller and quieter island, with only 2 accommodation options. Some say it's best to stop here ''before'' Havelock.
Diglipur – the far north of the island chain, and the jumping off point for Smith and Ross Islands.