The Hong Kong Special Administrative Region of the People's Republic of China is much more than a harbour city. The traveller weary of its crowded streets may be tempted to describe it as _gHong Kongcrete_h. Yet, this SAR with its cloudy mountains and rocky islands is mostly a rural landscape. Much of the countryside is classified as Country Park and, although 7 million people are never far away, it is possible to find pockets of wilderness that will reward the more intrepid tourist.
Hong Kong has a subtropical climate with at least one season to match your comfort zone. Boasting one of the world_fs best airports, it is the ideal stopover for those who wish to travel deeper into the Orient.
Hong Kong is much more than one city and can be divided into four geographic areas, each with its own unique character that merits separate exploration.
Archeological findings date the first human settlements in the area back to more than 30,000 years. It was first incorporated into China during the Qin Dynasty and largely remained under Chinese rule until 1841 during the Qing Dynasty, with a brief interruption at the end of the Qin Dynasty, when a Qin official established the kingdom of Nam Yuet, which later fell to the Han Dynasty.
In January 1841, as a result of the defeat of the Qing Dynasty of China in the First Opium War, Hong Kong became a British colony, under the Convention of Chuen Pi. After the defeat of China in the Second Opium War, the Kowloon Peninsula was ceded to Britain in 1860. In 1898, the New Territories — a rural area north of Boundary Street in Kowloon district — were leased to Britain for 99 years. Hong Kong fell into Japanese hands during the Second World War but returned to British control after the end of the war.
After the communists took control of mainland China in 1949, many Chinese people, especially businessmen, fled to Hong Kong due to persecution by the communist government. Unlike the restrictive policies imposed by the communists in mainland China, the British government took a rather "hands off" approach in Hong Kong, as proposed by former financial scretary John James Cowperthwaite, which led to a high degree of economic freedom. Under such conditions, businesses flourished in Hong Kong and its economy grew rapidly, earning it a place as one of the East Asian Tigers. In 1990, Hong Kong's GDP per capita surpassed that of Britain, the first time a colony's GDP per capita surpassed that of its colonial master. Hong Kong is now the world's fourth largest financial centre after New York, London and Tokyo.
In 1984, the Chinese and British Governments signed the Joint Declaration on the Question of Hong Kong, giving Hong Kong back to China on 1 July 1997. Hong Kong became a Special Administrative Region (SAR) of the Peoples Republic of China. Under the slogan "One Country, Two Systems", Hong Kong remains a capitalist economy without various restrictions that apply in mainland China such as news censorship and foreign exchange controls.
In accordance with the Joint Declaration, the Basic Law was enacted to serve in effect as a mini-constitution for the Hong Kong SAR. In theory, Hong Kong enjoys "a high degree of autonomy" in most matters except foreign and defence affairs. In practice, it is more complex than that: on the one hand, Beijing exerts much influence, on the other, there are groups pushing for a more democratic regime and universal suffrage.
In many respects, little has changed since the Handover to China in 1997. A Chief Executive, chosen by an elite electoral college, has replaced the Colonial Governor ? Beijing_fs man has replaced London_fs man. What was once a British colony now looks like a Chinese colony. Although _gpart of China_h, Hong Kong operates like a tiny country with its own currency, laws, international dialling code, police force, border controls and the like. It is also a member of international organisations that are normally restricted to sovereign states such as the WTO, APEC and the IOC.
There are four distinct seasons in Hong Kong. Hong Kong can be a little chilly in the winter (10°C) and hot and humid in the summer (33°C). The best times of year to visit are thus, spring (March-May), when the average temperature is around 25°C and autumn (September-December). Christmas in Hong Kong can be a delight with a fair chance of mild sunny weather that will appeal to those coming from colder northern climates. Hotels experience peak occupancy in the months of April and October. Typhoons usually occur between June and September and can bring a halt to local business activities for a day or less. The weather in winter is usually caused by the winter monsoon which brings dry cold winds from the north. In winter the air can be cold but the sun can still burn. Expect winter temperatures to rise to 22°C on sunny days and fall to under 10°C at night. Chinese New Year is notorious for cold wet weather and, since many businesses close, non-Chinese tourists will not see Hong Kong at its best. Should you find yourself in Hong Kong at Chinese New Year, you can make the best of the weather by going hiking if it is dry.
Non-guidebooks about Hong Kong.
In English:
'''Hong Kong''' by Jan Morris. In this well-written albeit overly detailed overview, noted Welsh travel writer Morris alternates chapters on Hong Kong's history with descriptions of its geography, economy, politics and society, interspersing word-portraits of some of its leading rulers and entrepreneurs.
'''Myself a Mandarin''' Memoirs of a colonial magistrate, by Austin Coates. Each chapter is an entertaining episode of an English man's time as a colonial magistrate in the New Territories.
'''East and West''' China, Power, and the Future of Asia. A memoirs of Chris Patten, the last governor of Hong Kong. Published in 1998, Patten provides his account of Hong Kong in the final years before the Handover.
'''Gweilo''' Memories of a Hong Kong Childhood, by Martin Booth. A well-written book that offers an insight into colonial life in Hong Kong through the eyes of a young English boy.
'''The World of Suzie Wong''' A classic novel published in 1957, later adapted to film in 1961. Set in Hong Kong, it is the fictional story of a young expat's life.
'''We Deserve Better''' An account of the "decline" of Hong Kong's "governance, spirit and ambition in the years following the Handover", by Hemlock.
'''Weather'''— For those who are seeking warm, dry and sunny weather, the ideal time is October to December. Those who are wanting to escape the humidity of tropical climates will appreciate the cooler months of January to March. The temperature ranges from 9°C to 24°C during winter, and from 26°C to 33°C during summer. The humidity is typically high in the spring and worse in the summer, when high temperatures (usual maximum of 32-34°C) are often recorded.
'''Events''' — During Chinese New Year, whilst there are some extra celebratory events such as a lion dances, fireworks, and parades, many shops and restaurants are closed for three to five days. The official public holiday lasts three days.
Culture lovers will be able to feast on a multitude of cultural activities from February to April. The Hong Kong Arts Festival, a month-long festival of international performances, is held in February and March. The Man Literary Festival, a two-week English language festival with international writers as guests, is held in March. The Hong Kong International film festival, a three-week event, is held in late March to early April.
Rugby fans, and those wishing to party, should come during the weekend of the Hong Kong Rugby Sevens [http://www.hksevens.com]
There is a second round of cultural activities in the autumn lasting till the end of the year.
Christmas is also a nice time to visit as many stores and shopping centres are nicely decorated and the festive mood is apparent across the city.
Hong Kong maintains a separate and independent immigration system from that of mainland China. This means that unlike the mainland, most Western and Asian visitors do not need to obtain visas in advance. However, it also means that a separate visa is still required to enter mainland China from Hong Kong. Macao residents may enter using their identity card while other PRC passport holders and residents of Taiwan holding ROC passports need to apply for a separate visit permit. Detailed visa requirements are available from the Immigration Department [http://www.immd.gov.hk/ehtml/hkvisas_4.htm] . Those who require visas should apply for one at a Chinese embassy, but note that the Hong Kong visa has to be applied for separately from the mainland Chinese one. Anyone arriving at Hong Kong International Airport who requires an onward visa for mainland China, will find a kiosk in the foyer in the arrivals area that issues them. A photograph will be required and the staff will be happy to accommodate you.
There are many direct flights to Hong Kong from every continent in the world. Most major cities in Oceania, Europe and North America are all served with at least one daily flight. Sydney has 6 daily flights, Melbourne 5, London 10, Frankfurt 2, Paris 3, Amsterdam 2, Los Angeles 4, San Francisco 3, Vancouver 3, New York 3, Chicago 2 and Toronto 2.
Flights between Hong Kong and other major Asian cities are also frequent: up to 40 flights per day connect Hong Kong with Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Taipei, Tokyo, Shanghai, Manila, Seoul, Bangkok and Beijing. Other routes may be cheaper, however. For destinations within China, it is often cheaper to fly from Shenzhen than from Hong Kong, as flights from the mainland to Hong Kong are considered to be international flights and therefore, priced as such. For elsewhere in Asia, consider Macau. The discount airlines land there because it has lower fees than Hong Kong. There are also less frequent flights between Hong Kong and several mid-Pacific islands and nations including a twice-weekly service from Guam.
Cathay Pacific [http://www.cathaypacific.com] and its subsidiary airline Dragonair [http://www.dragonair.com] are Hong Kong's main carriers, with Hong Kong Express [http://www.hongkongexpress.com] providing some welcome competition.
There are two terminals, creatively called T1 and T2. Signs on approach to the airport by car/taxi list the terminals and check in zones. The station is located between the two terminals, so follow the signs when you exit the station. Once checked in you can clear security at either terminal, there is an underground shuttle bus outside the security area. There are probably more shopping opportunities before security at T2, but the shops close earlier. There are lots of shopping opportunities after security as well. Travellers will find an efficient post office in the airport which provides boxes, wrapping material, scissors and tape. It might be more economical to send your excess luggage via surface mail, rather than paying fees to the airline.
Services at Chek Lap Kok are generally better, or on par with those in other major international airports.
Taking a bus to the airport is cheaper, but slower than the train. For example, the A21 ($33) bus will take you down Nathan Road, the main artery of Kowloon, stopping outside many hotels and hostels. Lines A10, A11 and A12 go to Hong Kong Island ($48, $40 and $45 respectively). Alternatively, take bus S1 to Tung Chung ($3.50) and connect to the ordinary MTR for a cheap ride to the city (Kowloon $17, Hong Kong $23). The free Airport Express shuttle buses connect Kowloon and Hong Kong airport express stations to various hotels in each area.
For a full listing of buses available at HKIA refer to the Hong Kong airport website [http://www.hongkongairport.com/eng/transport/to-from-airport/bus.html].
If you are on a budget, take an "E" route bus rather than the "A" routes bus, they take about 20 minutes longer (50-60 min instead of 35-40 min) and are about half price (e.g. $21 for the E11 from Central). These 'External' buses are aimed more at airport workers, so they make several detours around Tung Chung. They will give you a nice tour around the airport island. However, E21 (Kowloon KCR Station to Airport) takes about an hour to the airport comparing to A21 (as E21 tour around not only airport island but Kowloon peninsula).
A taxi from the airport to the city (Central/Mid-levels) will cost you around $350 depending on your exact destination. If you have three or more people travelling together, it is generally cheaper to travel by taxi than by Airport Express, but you may have a problem fitting so many bags into the taxi. Use a red taxi for destinations to Hong Kong Island and Kowloon, Green taxis are restricted to the New Territories and blue taxis are for Lantau Island.
There is a large chart at the exit to the taxi stand showing the approximate fares to most destinations. The law is strict on taxi drivers who must charge according to the meter. The meter fare does not include the luggage fee, toll fee, waiting fee or pet fee.
Taxis from the airport to downtown Kowloon can suffer from traffic congestion. If you are going to Hong Kong Island, tell the taxi driver to use the "Western Harbour Crossing" to avoid congestion, but this will attract an additional surcharge.
From the airport there are private cars and vans operating illegally as taxis. Do not take these as they are not licensed and in case of accidents, your insurance will not cover you.
Because flying from Hong Kong to the mainland is considered an international flight, flying around mainland China using '''Shenzhen Airport''' ({{IATA|SZX}}) [http://eng.szairport.com/] is often significantly cheaper. Many hotels in Hong Kong offer a shuttle bus from the hotel direct to Shenzhen airport. In the recently completed Elements shopping centre above the Kowloon MTR station on the Tung Chung and the Airport Express line, there is a shop front waiting room where you can check-in and receive your boarding pass (although check in at this location is not available for China Southern Airlines passengers), and then board a bus direct to Shenzhen airport. This in-town check-in is completely separate from the in-town check-in provided for Hong Kong International Airport. Take the escalators up from the AE/MTR station to 1/F of the Elements Mall, turn right, and then it is opposite Starbucks. The bus uses the new western passage immigration facilities where both Hong Kong SAR and Chinese immigration formalities are completed under one roof. The cost of the service is $100 and the bus is advertised to take 75 minutes, but is more like 90 minutes in reality. Buses currently run every half an hour from 7:30 AM to 5 PM at Hong Kong side, and from 10 AM to 9 PM at Shenzhen side.
Because of higher fees at Hong Kong International Airport, it is often cheaper to fly out of '''Macau International Airport''' ({{IATA|MFM}}) [http://www.macau-airport.gov.mo/en/index.php]. Air Asia [http://www.airasia.com] has set up a hub at Macau and flies to destinations such as Kuala Lumpur, and Bangkok among others. Viva Macau flies to Sydney. Macau International Airport is easily reached by ferry from Hong Kong Island, Kowloon and Hong Kong International Airport. Before completing immigration formalities at the ferry terminal in Macau, one can take a direct bus to Macau Airport without going through Macau immigration.
Hong Kong is only a 1 hour '''hydrofoil ride''' away from Macau, and there are good connections to mainland China as well. There are two main companies handling the services, First Ferry and Fast Ride. The ferries are comfortable and make for a unique international ride. The main terminals are:
The Ocean Terminal in Tsim Sha Tsui is one of the hubs of Star Cruises [http://www.starcruises.com]. Cruise ships leave from here for various cities in Vietnam, mainland China and Taiwan. There are even long haul service all the way to Singapore via various points in Vietnam, Thailand and Malaysia.
There are six land checkpoints between Hong Kong and mainland China, namely Lo Wu, Lok Ma Chau Spur Line, Lok Ma Chau, Man Kam To, Sha Tau Ko and Shenzhen Bay. Lo Wu is a train and pedestrian crossing; Lok Ma Chau spur line is a pedestrian crossing; Lok Ma Chau and Sha Tau Kok are road, cross-boundary bus and pedestrian crossings; while Man Kam To and Shenzhen Bay bridge are road and cross-boundary bus crossings.
''Please note that all the crossings, save for Shenzhen Bay Bridge, are located in the Frontier Closed Area and everyone is required to have a permit to be there unless crossing the border. Lo Wu and Lok Ma Chau can be easily reached by train, but if you are just there to look around, be ready for some security questioning. It is also not easy to directly access the train departure area from the arrivals area.''
There are 6 lines of short trip cross boundary coaches serves the port,
# Jordan, Kowloon departs from Scout Centre, Austin Road, Tsim Sha Tsui (5 mins walk from Jordan MTR). # Mongkok, Kowloon departs from Portland Street, near Metropark Hotel Mongkok (exit from Prince Edward Hotel). # Wanchai, Hong Kong Island departs from Wanchai Ferry Bus Terminus. # Kwun Tong, Kowloon departs from Lam Tin MTR, stops at Kwun Tong APM Shopping Plaza and Kwun Tong Rd, Kowloon Bay MTR. # Tsuen Wan departs from Discovery Park Bus Terminus (10 mins walk from Tsuen Wan MTR). # Kam Sheng Road departs from Kam Sheung Road West Rail Station.
Except the route to Kam Sheng Road, 24 hour services are provided with half hourly or hourly departure in midnight and around 10-20 mins per bus during the day and evening.
Lok Ma Chau is a around-the-clock border crossing ; visa-on-arrival can be obtained on the Chinese side (subject to nationality, at the present, applications from USA passport holders are not accepted).
'''Man Kam To''' control point can be accessed by taking the cross-boundary coach on the bus interchange under the shopping centre of West Kowloon Centre, Sham Shui Po (near Sham Shui Po MTR)in Kowloon, which costs $35, the bus calls at Landmark North also, which is just adjacent to Sheung Shui KCR Station, with section fare of $22. It is seldom crowded with travellers even during holiday periods. You can also enjoy the free shuttle service outside the Chinese checkpoint, which takes you to the central area of Shenzhen. However, no visa-on-arrival can be obtained on the Chinese side, which means you need to arrange for your visa in advanced before arrival.
It is the best route to go to the downtown in Shenzhen especially during holidays.
'''Sha Tau Kok''' control point can be accessed by taking the cross-boundary coach on the bus interchange at Luen Wo Hui in Fanling and Kowloon Tong. It connects the eastern boundary of Hong Kong and Shenzhen and it is a bit remote from the central part on Shenzhen. As a consequence, only very few passengers choose to cross the boundary using this checkpoint. No visa-on-arrival can be obtained on the Chinese side.
Coaches departs from Kowloon Tong MTR from 7:00 to 18:30 every 15 minutes which costs $20, which is also the cheapest direct coach to Shenzhen.
'''Shenzhen Bay''' control point links Hong Kong directly with Shekou, Shenzhen, and can be accessed conveniently by public buses. Route B2 departs from Yuen Long Railway Station via Tin Shui Wai Railway Station to Shenzhen Bay, while B3 departs from Tuen Mun Pier. There is also a express coach service departing from Sham Shui Po to Shenzhen Bay.
Cycling across the border is possible at the four land crossings with Shenzhen, with Lo Wu probably the easiest to deal with. You can also take your bike across on the ferries, but cycling to or from the international airport is difficult to impossible.
'''Lok Ma Chau'''
Travellers entering Hong Kong first go through China immigration and then catch a bus to Hong Kong immigration checkpoint. Foot passengers have a choice of using the "yellow bus " to the Hong Kong Side or cross border buses which go eventually to different areas of Hong Kong. Bikes are currently not allowed on the yellow buses and have to be wheeled through China immigration to the bus terminus to buy a ticket the chosen destination. It's helpful to know where you want to go. Sometimes you need to pay for the bike (about $30). You then load the bike onto the bus yourself and have to unload again about 5 minutes later to go through Hong Kong immigration and then put it back on the bus. All passengers have to do this with their luggage. Usually this whole process is frenetic (even for locals) due to the number of people travelling over the border.
'''Lo Wu'''
A train runs from the border crossing at Lo Wu into the centre of Hong Kong and cycles are allowed on the train (known as the KCR) with the payment of between $20 and $40 depending upon the time of day and with the front wheel removed. As for all border crossings travellers have to pass through the Chinese side and then the Hong Kong side before boarding the train.
'''Man Kam To and Sha Tau Kok'''
These two border crossings are usually used by heavy lorries and cars although it is possible to transit with cycles. Sha Tau Kok is used if the onward route is to the east of Guangdong.
'''MTR Corporation''' runs regular '''Intercity Passenger Train''' services between Guangdong Province, Beijing and Shanghai. The intercity rail terminus is at '''Hung Hom''' Station on Kowloon side. The destinations of the Intercity Passenger Service are Guangzhou (East), Dongguan, Foshan and Zhaoqing in Guangdong Province, as well as Beijing and Shanghai.
The online directory of MTR Corporation [http://www.mtr.com.hk/eng/intercity/index.html] provides information on the timetable and fare information for the Intercity Passenger Service.
The Octopus card [http://www.octopuscards.com/consumer/en/index.jsp] (___B__, ''Bat Dat Toong'' in Cantonese,) is the heart of the public transport system. A contactless smart card, even when placed inside a wallet or bag, you can tap on card readers and the correct amount will be deducted from money stored. Those who are familiar with Singapore's eZ-Link card, London Underground's Oyster card or Japan Railway's IC cards will quickly understand the Octopus card. In addition to being used for all forms of public transport (except most of the red-top minibuses and taxis) Octopus is also accepted for payment in almost all convenience stores, restaurant chains like McDonald's and Cafe de Coral, many vending machines, all roadside parking and some car parks. Some housing estates and schools use the card for identification at entry.
When travelling by MTR and some bus routes, payment by Octopus card can sometimes be cheaper than cash, and it's always more convenient. As the Octopus has a fully refundable deposit on the card and on unused credit, there's really no reason ''not'' to get one.
Basic adult Octopus cards cost $150, with $100 face value plus $50 refundable deposit. A $7 service charge applies if the card is returned in ''less than'' 3 months. The maximum value that an Octopus card can carry is $1,000. The Octopus card also allows the remaining value to go negative once. For example, you may pay for a ride of $5 with a remaining value of $2, but you cannot use the card again until the value is topped up. The negative value of an Octopus card can go as far as $35.
Your Octopus cards' balance is displayed as you exit the gates after each ride, or after each transaction. The balance can also be checked using a small machine near regular ticket machines in MTR stations.
For travellers, there are three convenient ways to refill a card:
Hong Kong's Mass Transit Railway [http://www.mtr.com.hk] ('''MTR''') underground and overground network is the fastest way to get around the territory, but what you gain in speed you lose in views and (at least for short distances) price. There are ten lines, including the Airport Express, plus a network of modern tram lines operated by the MTR in the North West New Territories. The '''Kowloon Canton Railway''' (KCR), including its link to the mainland border at Shenzhen (Lo Wu), was merged into the MTR in 2007 and now operates as a integral part of it.
The most important lines for many visitors is the busy '''Tsuen Wan Line''' (red), which tunnels from Central to Kowloon and down Nathan Road towards Tsuen Wan in the New Territories and the '''Island Line''' (blue) which runs along the north coast of the Island. The new '''Tung Chung Line''' (orange) is the fastest route to Lantau and one of the cheapest ways to the airport when coupled with the S1 shuttle bus stationed at Tung Chung MTR station. The line also provides a link to Hong Kong Disneyland via a change at Sunny Bay station. The '''East Rail Line''' (light blue) (formerly the KCR East Rail) is important to those who want to go to Shenzen (and mainland China) by rail. All signs are bilingual in Chinese and English and all announcements are made in Cantonese, Mandarin and English so tourists should not have a problem using the rail system. Should you get lost, staff in the station control room usually speak some English so they would be able to help you out.
Most underground MTR stations have one '''Hang Seng Bank''' branch (except for the massive Hong Kong/Central station, which has two). Since they're a common feature, unambiguous and easy to find, they're a good place to tell people to meet you.
Note that in Hong Kong, a ''subway'' is an underground walkway, not an underground railway, as in most English speaking countries outside of North America. While many of the trains travel underground, there are also many stations whose trains travel above on raised platforms.
Fares depend on distance. Credit cards are not accepted to pay for tickets or passes except for rides on the Airport Express Line.
In addition to the Airport Express Octopus (see above), you can also buy a 24-hour pass for $50 at any MTR station; however, unlimited rides are valid ''only'' on regular MTR lines (i.e. Tung Chung line, Tsuen Wan line, Island line, Kwun Tong line, Tseung Kwan O line, Disneyland Resort line and non first-class or cross-border travel on the East Rail line).
Operated by '''Hong Kong Tramways''' [http://www.hktramways.com], the narrow double-decker '''city trams''' trundling on the north coast of Hong Kong Island are a Hong Kong icon. Trams are slower, but the route along the length of Hong Kong Island's centre is useful and with a flat fare of only $2, they're the cheapest sightseeing tour around. Passengers board a the rear, and the fare is paid upon alighting at the front of the tram. Exact change and Octopus cards are accepted.
In a league of its own is the '''Peak Tram''' [http://www.thepeak.com.hk/full/en/peak_tram.php], Hong Kong's first mechanised mode of transport, opened back in 1888. The remarkably steep 1.7 km track up from Central to Victoria Peak is worth at least one trip despite the comparatively steep price ($22 one-way, $33 return; return tickets must be purchased in advance).
There are three types of bus available in Hong Kong, operated by a multitude of companies. While generally easy to use (especially with Octopus), signage in English can be sparse and finding your bus stop can get difficult. Buses are pretty much your only option for travelling around the south side of the island and Lantau.
The large '''double-decker buses''' cover practically all of the territory, stop frequently and charge varying fares depending on the distance. The first seats of the upper deck offer great views. The franchised bus operators in Hong Kong include Kowloon Motor Bus [http://www.kmb.hk] (KMB) (and its subsidary Long Win Bus), Citybus [http://www.citybus.com.hk], New World First Bus [http://www.nwfb.com.hk] and New Lantao Bus [http://www.newlantaobus.com]. Route and fare information can be found on the companies web sites. Fares will depend more on where you board rather than where you get-off which means it is more expensive to board at the earlier stops rather than the later stops.
Van-sized '''public light buses''' carry a maximum of 16 passengers (seats only) and come in two varieties, '''red minibuses''' and '''green minibuses''' (the red buses are also called '''maxicabs'''); the colour refers to a wide stripe painted on top of the vehicle. Riding a minibus may not be easy for travellers, as it is customary to call out the name of the stop or ask the driver to stop in Cantonese. Red minibuses do not accept Octopus but will give you change, while green minibuses do accept Octopus payment but can not give you change if you pay in cash. The Hong Kong Island green minibus #1 down from the Peak to Central is particularly exhilarating. Red minibuses tend to have a more Chinese feel than green buses. Prices on red minibuses are often displayed only in Chinese numbers. The price displayed on a red minibus can legally vary according to the market price, so expect to pay more at busy times. Some people argue that the driving standards of red minibuses is lower than green minibuses; Minibus drivers generally drive fast, especially at night. Always use minibus seatbelts where available. You will notice that they all have an extra, large, digital speedometer in the cabin for the passengers to view, this is required by the government after a few fatal accidents due to speeding. Since the introduction of these passenger speedometers mini-bus accident rates have dropped.
Kowloon Canton Railway also maintains its fleet of KCR feeder buses [http://www.kcr.com.hk/eng/services/services/b_intro.asp]. KCR passengers can enjoy a free feeder service if the payment is made by Octopus. The route K16 is especially useful for tourists who need to go to Tsim Sha Tsui from the New Territories and mainland China by rail.
Note that if paying in cash, the '''exact fare''' is required and no change can be given. Paying by Octopus is much more convenient. The exception to this rule is if you use a red minibus, Octopus cards are not accepted on red minibus services, but they do give you change.
Route numbering is independent in six regions: bus on Hong Kong Island/ in Kowloon and in New Territories/ on Lantau Island, green minibus on Hong Kong Island/ in Kowloon/ in New Territories and several exceptional auxiliary buses route (red minibuses does not have a route number). This leads to duplication of routes in different regions. Although the Transport Department of Hong Kong Government has been working on the unifying of the route numbers, it is still a little bit messy at the moment. If you are confused a bit by the numbering of routes, here is a suggestion: just remember the route number of buses in Hong Kong Island/Kowloon/New Territories only whenever it is necessary. In other special circumstances, ask the driver or the station staff for the Lantau buses and green minibuses and they can answer you.
Generally you need not to mention which district the route belongs to when you are asking for directions (almost all people will assume you will asking for the route which runs in the district you are in, e.g. if you ask for bus route #2, locals will assume you will asking for bus route #2 running in Kowloon if you are in Kowloon), but you really need to mention whether the route is bus or minibus when you ask, since in some cases both bus and minibus can have same route number in the same area which are actually different routes. (e.g. there are both bus route #6 and minibus route #6 in Tsim Sha Tsui, which are actually different routes).
If you are curious enough, you may discover a pattern on the allocation of buses in Hong Kong/Kowloon/NT:
A vast fleet of ferries plies between the many islands of Hong Kong. The granddaddy of them all and an attraction in itself is the '''Star Ferry''' [http://www.starferry.com.hk], whose most popular line travels between Kowloon and Central from early morning until late at night, and offers amazing views (especially when coming from Kowloon). Upper deck seats cost $2.20 while the lower deck cost $1.70, both payable with Octopus or cash (change given). The Star Ferry also operates between Kowloon and Wanchai.
Ferries to Lamma, Lantau and other islands depart from a variety of ports, but the largest and most important terminal is at Central adjacent to the Star Ferry. Ferries are usually divided into '''fast ferries''' and '''slow ferries''', with fast ferries charging around twice the price for half the journey time, although not all destinations offer both kinds of service. Example fares for trips from Central to Yung Shue Wan (Lamma) are $10/15 slow/fast, and to Mui Wo (Lantau) $10.50/$21. Note that all fares increase by around 50% on Sundays and public holidays.
'''Taxis''' are plentiful, clean and efficient. They were rated as the cheapest of all big cities in the world. Not good news for the drivers, but good for the tourist. Fares [http://www.td.gov.hk/transport_in_hong_kong/public_transport/taxi/taxi_fare_of_hong_kong/index_t.htm] in Hong Kong & Kowloon start at $18, and you can ride for 2 km before additional $1.50 per 200m increments start ticking ($1 for fares of $70.50 and above). New fare increases are indicated in writing until the meter is adjusted. Tipping is not expected but nevertheless still welcome, and drivers often round up the fare to the nearest dollar when giving change.
Drivers are required to provide change for $100 notes, but not for higher denominations. If you only have a $500 or $1000 note and are going through a tunnel, let the driver know beforehand and he will change it when paying at the toll booth.
Life is made slightly more difficult by the fact that there are three different flavours of taxi. These can be distinguished by colour: '''red''' taxis typically serve the Island and Kowloon, and some parts of the New Territories (for example Shatin), but they are permitted to travel all over Hong Kong except to Lantau Island; '''green''' taxis serve the New Territories (only), but with a slightly cheaper fare than red taxis; '''blue''' taxis serve Lantau island. All three types of taxis can take you to the airport. When in doubt, just take a red taxi.
In addition, red taxis are based in either the Island ''or'' Kowloon, if they do take you across the harbour, they will charge you twice the bridge/tunnel toll so they can get back! But you can use this to your advantage by picking a homebound taxi from a cross-harbour taxi rank in places like the Star Ferry pier or Hung Hom station. In these cross-harbour taxi stands only single toll charge will be applied to the taxi fare.
There are no extra late-night charges. Baggage carried in the boot ("trunk" if coming from north America) will cost you $5 per piece and all tolls are payable. The wearing of seat belts is required by law.
All taxis are radio equipped and can be reserved and requested via an operator for a token fee of $5, payable to the driver. You are unlikely to need to call a taxi, though, as they are plentiful.
It is good practice to get a local person to write the name or address of your destination in Chinese for you to hand to the taxi driver, as many drivers speak limited English and Mandarin. For example, if you wish take a journey back to your hotel, ask a receptionist for the hotel's business card.
'''Renting a car''' is almost unheard of in densely populated Hong Kong. With heavy traffic, extremely complex road network and rare parking spaces, renting a car is very unappealing. However, if you must (which may be necessary if you need to get to more remote parts of Lantau Island or the New Territories), expect to pay over $600/day even for a small car. Nevertheless, driving habits in Hong Kong are generally much better than in mainland China with drivers generally following traffic rules. Roads are also generally well maintained and directional signs are written in both Chinese and English. Unlike in mainland China, International Driving Permits (IDPs) are also accepted in Hong Kong. Unlike mainland China, traffic in Hong Kong moves on the left (part of Hong Kong's British legacy).
If you wish to drive to mainland China, note that your vehicle must have a second set of number plates issued by the Guangdong authorities and a separate Chinese license will be required. You will also need to change sides of the road at the border.
Cantonese is the language spoken by 95% of the people in Hong Kong. Due to British influences from the colonial era, colloquial Cantonese in Hong Kong tends to incorporate some English words and slang, which may sound strange to Cantonese speakers from mainland China. Though Hong Kong is a former British colony, the degree of '''English proficiency''' is limited among non-professionals in those districts where more locals visit than tourists. Also, some locals, even if they can understand English well, do not feel comfortable speaking it. However, others including most taxi drivers, street vendors, salespeople etc. are fluent enough for sufficient communication, especially at tourist destinations such as hotels and certain restaurants. English is spoken fluently among the business community. English language education usually starts in kindergarten. To ensure that local people understand you, it is a good idea to speak in short sentences, use standard English and avoid slang or colloquial expressions.
Hong Kong also has several minority communities, such as the Teochews (''Chiuchow'' in Cantonese) and Shanghainese who fled to Hong Kong when the mainland fell to the communists in 1949. Some of them still speak their respective dialects, though most of them are also fluent in Cantonese. There are also non-Chinese resident communities in Hong Kong, largely originating from the Indian subcontinent, and among them, various South Asian languages are spoken, though it should not cause much of a problem as almost all of them are fluent in English and many are fluent in Cantonese as well.
Most locals are not fluent in Mandarin, but can comprehend it to a certain degree. Mandarin proficiency is increasing, especially after the reunification with the Mainland. Due to the increasing number of tourists from mainland China, most (if not all) shops and eateries in the city centre and more touristy areas will have at least one staff member who can speak Mandarin.
All official signs are bilingual, in both Chinese (Traditional) and English. However, Chinese only signs have become more common in recent years, e.g. at minibus stops. Most shops and restaurants also have English signage, though don't expect this from the more local or obscure establishments. Under the "one country, two systems" policy, Hong Kong continues to use traditional Chinese characters and not the simplified Chinese characters used in Mainland China.
The '''Hong Kong dollar''' (_`__ or HKD) is the official currency and is '''the unit of currency used throughout this travel guide'''.
In Chinese, one dollar is known formally as the ''yuen'' (__) and colloquially as the ''men'' (?) in Cantonese. The official exchange rate is fixed at 7.80 HKD<!--please don't change this to 7.75-7.85--> to 1 USD, although bank rates may fluctuate slightly. The Hong Kong Monetary Authority (HKMA) issues the new purple plastic $10 notes while the rest are issued by three banks (the Hongkong and Shanghai Banking Corporation, also known as the 'Hong Kong bank', Standard Chartered Bank and Bank of China). The old green paper $10 notes, which were issued by HSBC and Standard Chartered Bank remain legal tender. The style of notes varies a lot between banks though the colour and size are about the same for notes of the same denomination. The larger the denomination, the larger the size of the banknotes. Banknotes come in denominations of:
Some shops do not accept $1000 notes due to counterfeiting concerns.
The coins come in units of
varying in a descending size (except $10 coin).
Since September 1997, the use of the small coins and change has been reduced due to the innovation of the Octopus card. Originally used just for fare payment for the MTR and buses, it now is used all over the city, for purchases in any amount at convenience stores, fast food restaurants, pharmacies, vending machines, etc.
Automated Teller Machines (ATM's) are common in urban areas. They usually accept VISA, MasterCard, and to certain degree UnionPay. Maestro and Cirrus cards are widely accepted also. They dispense $100, $500 or rarely $1000 notes depending on the request. Credit card use is common in most shops for major purchases. Most retailers accept VISA and MasterCard, and some accept American Express as well. Signs with the logo of different credit cards are usually displayed at the door to indicate which cards are accepted. For small purchases, in places such as McDonalds or 7-Eleven, cash or Octopus Card is the norm.
Hong Kong is still known as an excellent destination for shopping, especially for goods from the mainland. Prices are often comparably cheaper than Europe, North America, or Japan, especially since Hong Kong has no sales tax (VAT). Although Hong Kong prices are still expensive by regional standards, the choice and variety is a lot better than in most south-east Asian countries. Popular shopping items include consumer electronics, custom clothing, shoes, jewellery, expensive brand name goods, Chinese antiques, toys and Chinese herbs/medicine. There's also a wide choice of European clothing but prices are high.
As a generalisation, Hong Kong Island and nearby Tsim Sha Tsui have the upmarket shopping malls (particularly near '''Central''' and '''Causeway Bay'''), while Kowloon is the place to go for cheap open markets. '''Causeway Bay''' in particular is home to Hong Kong's youth fashion scene and is a good place to look for the newest fashion trends. Kowloon's '''Nathan Road''' has many shops selling electronics, cameras and gadgets, mainly to tourists (not locals!). Beware that some of the business practices there can be quite deceptive - see the section '''Tourist traps''' below.
Most shops in Hong Kong's urban areas open at about 10AM and stay open until midnight, even on weekends. However, there is no hard and fast rule and shops will typically stay open as long as there are customers, which makes Hong Kong a late night shopping paradise.
For cheaper goods, some Hong Kong residents shop in Shenzhen just across the border into China.
'''Antiques'''- Head for Hollywood Road in Central. Here you will find a long street of shops with a wide selection of products that look like antiques. Some items are very good fakes, so you should only buy things that you like and always try and bargain on the price.
'''Books'''- Swindon Books is one of the oldest English language bookstores in Hong Kong. Its main branch is on Lock Road in Tsim Sha Tsui but it also has smaller branches in malls like the Ocean Terminal. Page One [http://www.pageonegroup.com/hongkong.html] is a chain-bookstore with branches in Central, Festival Walk (Kowloon Tong) and Times Square (Causeway Bay) offering a wide range of English language and Chinese books, and an extensive selection of travel guides. Dymocks is an Australian chain and has stores in the IFC, The Princes Building, and other locations. The Commercial Press has bookstores in many shopping malls. It has more Chinese titles than English ones but its prices tend to be a bit more reasonable than many other booksellers that specialise in English titles. The Commercial Press has a large store in Miramar Shopping Centre that has a decent collection of English titles.
'''Cameras'''- As a tourist you should avoid camera shops in tourist areas such as Tsim Sha Tsui. Instead, seek out one of the larger electronics shops along Sai Yeung Choi South Street in Mong Kok or the Wan Chai Computer centre.
'''Chinese Art'''- Try Star House near the Star Ferry pier in Tsim Sha Tsui for more expensive items, otherwise buy from the street markets in Mong Kok.
'''Computers'''- The Wanchai Computer Centre is located above Wanchai MTR station and is worth a look for anybody seeking computers and computer accessories. Prices are reasonable and you may find a bargain. Don't be afraid to ask the seller to demonstrate to you that the product is in good working order.
'''Consumer Electronics'''- There are many small shops selling electronic goods but as a tourist you are advised to avoid such vendors unless you have the help and support of a local person. Major shops such as Broadway, Fortress or TaiLin are more reliable but may not provide you with the sort of of guarantee and after sales service as you would get in your home country (if you spend a lot of time on the mainland Gome provides warranty service there for most electronics). Do not assume that electrical goods are cheaper in Hong Kong, in some instances prices can be up to five times more than in Europe or North America.
'''Music and Film'''- HMV is a tourist-friendly store that sells a wide range of expensive products. For real bargains you should find your way into the smaller shopping centres where you will find small independent retailers selling CDs and DVDs at very good prices. Some shops sell good quality second hand products. Try the Oriental Shopping Centre on Wanchai Road for a range of shops and a taste of shopping in a more down-market shopping centre. Alternatively, brave the warren of CD and DVD shops inside the Sino Centre on Nathan Road between Mong Kok and Yau Ma Tei MTR stations.
'''Sports Goods'''- A good place to buy sportswear is close to Mong Kok MTR station. Try Fa Yuen Street and the roads around it for a wide range of shops selling sports wear (especially sports' shoes) - you could be spoilt for choice.
'''Tea'''- Buying good chinese tea is like choosing a fine wine and there are many tea retailers that cater for the connoisseur who is prepared to pay high prices for some of China's best brews. To sample and learn about Chinese tea you might like to find the Tea Museum which is in Hong Kong Park in Central. Marks & Spencer caters for homesick Brits by supplying traditional strong English tea bags at a reasonable price.
'''Watches and jewellery'''- Hong Kong people are avid watch buyers - how else can you show your wealth if you can't own a car and your home is hidden at the top of a tower-block? You will find a wide range of jewellery and watches for sale in all major shopping areas. If you are targeting elegant looking jewellery or watches try Chow Tai Fook, which can be expensive. Prices vary and you should always shop around and try and bargain on prices. When you are in Tsim Sha Tsui you will probably be offered a "copy watch" for sale.
# '''Harbour City''' [http://www.harbourcity.com.hk/] - Huge Shopping centre in Tsim Sha Tsui on Canton Road, to get there take the MTR to Tsim Sha Tsui, or take the Star Ferry. # '''Pacific Place''' [http://www.pacificplace.com.hk/homepage.html]- Also a big shopping centre. Take the MTR to Admiralty. # '''Festival Walk''' [http://www.festivalwalk.com.hk/eng/index.htm]- A big shopping centre with a mix of expensive brands and smaller chains. There is also an ice skating rink there. Take the MTR or KCR East Rail to Kowloon Tong. # '''Cityplaza''' [http://www.cityplaza.com.hk]- A similarly large shopping centre, also with an ice-skating rink. To get there, take the MTR to Taikoo on the Island Line. # '''Landmark'''- Many the luxury brands have shops here Gucci, Dior, Fendi, Vuitton, etc. Central, Pedder Street. It used to be a magnet for the well-heeled but has since fallen behind in its management. # '''APM''' [http://www.apm-millenniumcity.com/chi/index.php]- All new 24hr Shopping centre in Kwun Tong. Take the MTR to the Kwun Tong station. # '''Langham Place''' [http://www.langhamplace.com.hk/eng/index.php]- A huge 12 storey shopping mall adjacent to the the Langham Place Hotel in Mong Kok. Take the MTR to the Mong Kong station and follow the appropriate exit directions. # '''IFC Mall''' [http://www.ifc.com.hk/english/]- Located near the Star Ferry and Outlying Islands Ferry Piers. Has many luxury brand shops, an expensive cinema and superb views across the harbour from the rooftop. # '''Times Square''' [http://www.timessquare.com.hk/]- A trendy but not stylish multi storey Shopping Mall with food courts at the lower levels, and Gourmet Dining at the upper stories. Take MTR to Causeway Bay, and exit at "Times Square". Crowded on weekends. # '''Citygate Outlet''' [http://www.citygateoutlets.com.hk/index.html]- Located right next to Tung Chung MTR Station, the Citygate is a rare outlet mall with tonnes of mid-priced brands, some of them being Adidas, Esprit, Giordano, Levi's, Nike, Quiksilver and Timberland. # '''Golden Computer Arcade'''- Located in Sham Shui Po, this shopping centre is specialized in selling computer and TV gaming related products. Take the MTR to the Sham Shui Po station. Other computer malls with better environment would be Star City in Tsim Sha Tsui just right on top of the McDonald's as you get out of Star Ferry; Windsor House Computer City in Causeway Bay; Wan Chai Computer mall right outside Wan Chai MTR Station; and Mong Kok Computer Centre on Nelson Street 2 minutes from Mong Kok MTR Station Exit E2. # '''DFS''' (Duty Free Shopping)- Located in Tsim Sha Tsui (across from Harbour City Shopping Mall) and in Tsim Sha Tsui East. As Hong Kong is a tax-free city, you can find DFS in Hong Kong itself not just in airports. A fantastic way to find luxury items and buy them without the burden of sales tax. # '''Laforet''', Island Beverly and Causaway Place. Best places to find cheap stylish clothes, Asian style. Mostly girls clothes, but also bags and accessories, highly recommended if you are looking for something different. These three shopping malls are all located near exit E, Causaway Bay MTR station.
Hong Kong has a lot of street markets. Some of them just selling regular groceries, others clothes, bags or even electronics.
# '''Ladies Market'''- Gents, don't think that it only sells ladies' goods of the market name. Find fake brand label goods here, or illegal imports. Other goods include clothes, toys etc. Make sure to bargain here! Located in Mong Kok and accessible by MTR or bus. # '''Flower Market''' - Prince Edward. Follow your nose to the sweet scents of a hundred different varieties of flowers. # '''Goldfish Market'''- A whole street full of shops selling small fish in plastic bags and accessories ''Tung Choi Street, Mong Kok''. # '''Bird Market'''- MTR Station Prince Edward, exit "Mong Kok Police Station". Walk down Prince Edward Road West until you reach Yuen Po Street Bird Garden. # '''Jade Market'''- Stalls of the beautiful jade green jewels. # '''Temple Street''' - Situated in the middle of Kowloon, this is a place that sells anything and everything. Hong Kong is a really safe city, but this is probably one of the only places you might want to be more careful with your handbags. # '''Seafood Street'''- Sai Kung. Grab tonight's dinner here where the seafood is always fresh. # '''Apliu Street'''- MTR Station Shum Shui Po, this is the place where you can find cheap computer goods, peripherals and accessories. However this would be the worst place to buy your mobile phones, as they tend to be even more dodgy than small stores in Mongkok. # '''Stanley Market'''- One of the more touristy places, this market sells everything from luxury luggage items to cheap brand name clothes (usually overruns from factories). Accessible with number 40 minibus from Causeway Bay. Also, no.6 and 6A bus from Central.
Many stores in Hong Kong (even some chain stores) are willing to negotiate on price, particularly for goods such as consumer electronics. Always feel free to ask "is there any discount?" and "do I get any free gift?" when buying anything in the territory. You can often get an additional discount if you pay cash (since the store can avoid paying the credit card charges).
Just as in any city, there are certain areas with tourist traps. They are often nameless stores that sell electronics such as digital cameras, mobile phones, and computers. These shops can easily be identified with usage of attention-grabbing neon signs of electronics brand names, numerous employees in a very small store space, and often several of these stores in a row. There are many of these stores on Nathan Road, Kowloon and in Causeway Bay. The selling price in these places is often overpriced, so make sure you compare prices before you buy.
One common trick to be aware of, is for the store owner to offer a low price on a particular item, take a deposit or full payment from you and then "discover" that he doesn't have any stock, offering to substitute another (always inferior) item instead. Be sure that you see the actual stock that you will buy before parting with any money.
Another common trick is to give you a great price on a camera you have obviously priced in many shops, take your credit card number and then before handing over the camera point out that it isn't as good as another camera and that you should buy this other camera, always at an increased cost. The camera they are showing you will in fact be a much cheaper one. This happens in Victory company in TST and the shops nearby are in on the act and will tell you the second camera is worth much more so you will buy it. If buying a camera either beat them at this trick by sticking to the one you want or buy in Wan Chai at the Computer centre where they are more reasonable and you can get a bargain if you haggle with them.
If you are unsure of the prices that you have been given by a shop, you can use '''ShopCite''' [http://www.shopcite.com/Main.jsp?lang=eng&afid=2382] to check for the latest prices of electronic goods sold by large chain-stores and reputable shops in Hong Kong for price comparison. Since you can use '''ShopCite''' [http://www.shopcite.mobi/Home.jsp?lang=eng&afid=2382] on your mobile, you can use it anytime and anywhere to avoid the tourist traps.
The skyline of Hong Kong is one of the best in the world. See the stunning Hong Kong Island skyline from Kowloon - one of the best view is from the Avenue of Stars at Tsim Sha Tsui. On the other hand, you may choose to take the Star Ferry [http://www.starferry.com.hk/] which runs frequently from Tsim Sha Tsui, Central, Wan Chai, Kowloon City, and Hung Hom.
Hong Kong Tourism Board offers many free walking tours, including the Nature Kaleidoscope Walk and Architecture Walk.
Get a stunning view of Hong Kong Island on Victoria Peak with the giant, wok shaped Peak Tower. Within the building are shops, restaurants, museums, and viewing points. The Peak Tram runs from Central to the bottom of the Peak Tower. Although the view of Kowloon and Victoria Harbour can be good, be prepared for the view to be spoilt by air pollution. There is no point in spending the extra money to visit the observation deck of the Peak Tower. There are a number of nice walks around the peak that quickly leave the tourist area behind and offer nice views of all sides of the island. You will be able to catch a laser show at 8PM every day.
The racing season runs from September to June, during which time meetings take place twice weekly, the location alternating between Shatin in the New Territories and Happy Valley near Causeway Bay MTR station. Both off these races are easily accessible by MTR train but Happy Valley is the more convenient and impressive location, although live races only take place here on Wednesday night. For only $10 entrance fee, a night in Happy Valley can be filled with entertainment. Get a local Chinese gambler to explain the betting system to you and then drink the cheap draft beer! Be sure to pick up the Racing Post section in the South China Morning Post on Wednesday to guide you. A 'beer garden' with racing commentary in English available at Happy Valley near the finish line, and many expatriates congregate here during the races. One good tip, take along your passport and you can get in at tourist rate of 1 HKD. Please be aware that horse racing is a ''religion'' in Hong Kong. They have a live broadcast over the radio. Just remember that when one is out or in a taxi and someone is listening to the races, expect no conversation or business to occur for the 1-2 minutes that the race itself lasts.
The most effective way to know how Hong Kong people live is to observe the local life of an ordinary Hong Kong resident.
Go and visit a public housing estate and then a private estate on the same day and you can witness the differences between rich and poor in the city. Next, visit a fresh food market and a larger supermarket or "superstore" and you can witness the struggle between small retailers and corporations. Alternatively, go and visit one of the small shopping centres in Mongkok where you can see teenagers spending their pocket money on overpriced footwear and youth fashions.
Just wander and observe - and don't worry - most areas in town are safe.
There are many traditional heritage locations throughout the territory.
There are a variety of museums in Hong Kong with different themes, arguably the best museum is the Hong Kong Museum of History [http://www.lcsd.gov.hk/CE/Museum/History/en/aboutus.php] which gives an excellent overview of Hong Kong's fascinating past. Not the typical pots-behind-glass format of museums you find elsewhere in China. Innovative galleries such as a mock-up of a colonial era street make history come to life. Allow about two hours to view everything in detail.
'''The following is a list of major museums in Hong Kong:'''
'''Dr Sun Yat-sen Museum''' (Central). [http://hk.drsunyatsen.museum/index.php]
'''Fireboat Alexander Grantham Exhibition Gallery''' (Quarry Bay Park). [http://www.lcsd.gov.hk/CE/Museum/History/en/fbag.php]
'''Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware''' (Hong Kong Park). [http://www.lcsd.gov.hk/ce/Museum/Arts/english/tea/intro/eintro.html]
'''Hong Kong Film Archive''' (Sai Wan Ho). [http://www.lcsd.gov.hk/CE/CulturalService/HKFA/english/eindex.html]
'''Hong Kong Heritage Discovery Centre''' (Kowloon Park). [http://www.lcsd.gov.hk/CE/Museum/Monument/en/discovery_center.php]
'''Hong Kong Heritage Museum''' (Shatin). [http://www.heritagemuseum.gov.hk/english/main.asp] Housed in an impressive modern Chinese-style building, this museum will appeal to those who have a serious interest in Chinese culture.
'''Hong Kong Maritime Museum''' (Stanley). [http://www.hkmaritimemuseum.org/]
'''Hong Kong Museum of Art''' (Tsim Sha Tsui)- [http://www.lcsd.gov.hk/CE/Museum/Arts/english/intro/eintro.html] Hong Kong Museum of Art is a fascinating, strange and elusive place. The entrance lies up one floor, mimicking the _gtemple_h approach to the high altar of culture and art. Here it doesn_ft work, instead of the broad sweep and sense of grandeur, one feels threatened and unwelcome. Once you arrive on the first floor, the cold unwelcoming entrance is forgotten and you are bathed in light from the wall of glass that gives you a panoramic view of Hong Kong Island. The objects on show are Chinese ceramics, terracotta, rhinoceros horn and Chinese paintings. There is also a temporary exhibition space devoted to items from their own collection with additional lent material. There is also space for contemporary art produced by Hong Kong artists, most of whom have moved away from the traditional Chinese art forms to North American and British art.
'''Hong Kong Museum of Coastal Defence''' (Shau Kei Wan). [http://www.lcsd.gov.hk/CE/Museum/Coastal/en/index.php] Despite its dry title, this museum is worth a visit if you enjoy military history.
'''Hong Kong Museum of History''' (Tsim Sha Tsui). [http://www.lcsd.gov.hk/CE/Museum/History/index.php]
'''Hong Kong Museum of Medical Sciences''' (Mid-levels). [http://www.hkmms.org.hk/]
'''Hong Kong Police Museum''' (The Peak). [http://www.police.gov.hk/hkp-home/english/museum/]
'''Hong Kong Railway Museum''' (Tai Po). [http://www.heritagemuseum.gov.hk/english/branch.htm]
'''Hong Kong Science Museum''' (Tsim Sha Tsui East)- [http://www.lcsd.gov.hk/CE/Museum/Science/] A museum which decided to make an architectural statement about its purpose, yet somehow got it horribly wrong. This museum is primarily aimed at children. The maths puzzles and optical illusions on the top floor are challenging. There is a giant Rube Goldberg machine spanning the entire museum that is run for a few minutes every two hours. The cafeteria is closed and part of the museum is undergoing renovation as of July 2008.
'''Hong Kong Space Museum''' (Tsim Sha Tsui). [http://www.lcsd.gov.hk/CE/Museum/Space/e_index.htm]
'''Hong Kong Visual Arts Centre''' (Hong Kong Park). [http://www.lcsd.gov.hk/CE/Museum/Apo/en/vac.html]
'''Law Uk Folk Museum''' (Chai Wan). [http://www.lcsd.gov.hk/CE/Museum/History/en/luf.php] This museum is probably the only tourist attraction in Chai Wan.
'''Lei Cheng Uk Han Tomb Museum''' (Sham Shui Po). [http://www.lcsd.gov.hk/CE/Museum/History/en/lcuht.php]
'''Madame Tussauds''' (The Peak). [http://www.madame-tussauds.com.hk/] The usual Tussauds waxworks with characters that appeal to Chinese interests.
Hong Kong is not all skyscrapers, and it is worthwhile to go to the countryside (over 70% of Hong Kong), including the country parks [http://parks.afcd.gov.hk/newparks/eng/country/index.htm] and marine parks [http://parks.afcd.gov.hk/newmarine/eng/index.htm].
Travelling on a bus or a tram is ideal for looking at different sides of Hong Kong. Not only it is cheap to ride on a bus or a tram, it also allows you to see completely different lifestyles in different districts in a short time. Below are some recommended routes.
The tram system refers to is Hong Kong Tramways [http://www.hktramways.com], a slow yet special form of transport running on Hong Kong Island. It has been operating since 1904 and is an obvious relic of the British administration. A trip on a tram is a perfect way to have a leisurely tour around Hong Kong Island's major streets and to have a glimpse of the local life. Fares are relatively cheap, just two dollars per trip for an adult and one dollar for Senior citizens (age 65 or older) and children.
It is recommended to ride from as far as Kennedy Town in the west, to as far as Shau Kei Wan in the east, in order to get a strong contrast of "East meets West" and "Old meets New".
A new, modern, tram system operates in the north west New Territories and serves New Towns between Yuen Long and Tuen Mun. Few tourists will be inspired by these trams but they may appeal to trainspotters.
Hong Kong's version of the Hollywood Walk of Fame, the '''Avenue of Stars''' [http://www.avenueofstars.com.hk/eng/home.asp] celebrates icons of Hong Kong cinema from the past century. The seaside promenade offers fantastic views, day and night, of Victoria Harbour and its iconic skyline. This is the place to have your picture taken by a professional photographer who is experienced in night photography. The Avenue can be reached from the Tsim Sha Tsui MTR station or the Star Ferry.
The Avenue of the Stars is also a great place to see A Symphony of Lights [http://www.tourism.gov.hk/symphony/], a spectacular light and laser show synchronised to music and staged every night at 8:00PM. This is the world's "Largest Permanent Light and Sound Show" as recognised by the Guinness World Records. On Monday, Wednesday and Friday, the light show is in English. On Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday it is in Mandarin. On Sunday it is in Cantonese. While at the Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront, spectators can tune their radios to FM103.4 MHz for English narration, FM106.8 MHz for Cantonese or FM107.9 for Mandarin. The same soundtrack can be accessed via mobile phones at 35665665 for the English version where normal telephone rates apply. However, whilst the show is not such a big deal, during festival times the light show is supplemented by fireworks that are worth seeing.
When on Hong Kong Island the best beaches to use include:
'''Repulse Bay''' is a large urban beach on the south side of Hong Kong island. It has recently had money spent on its facilities and will appeal to those who have young children.
'''Middle Bay''' is popular with gay people and is a 20 minute walk from the crowds at Repulse Bay. Middle Bay has lifeguards, showers, changing rooms, shark nets and a decent cafe serving drinks and snacks.
'''Shek O''' is a beach popular with many young Hong Kong people. It is away from the bustle of the city but is well served by restaurants and has a good bus service from the north side of the island. The Thai restaurant close to the beach is worth a try.
'''Big Wave Bay''' This beach is smaller than others on Hong Kong Island but still has good services which include a beach side cafe selling a range of drinks and meals that may appeal to Western tourists. Big Wave Bay, as the name suggests, has the sort of waves that appeal to surfers. From Big Wave Bay it is possible to take the coastal footpath to Chai Wan where you can find the MTR and buses. The walk to Chai Wan is about one hour, or more if you are not used to the steep climb up the mountain.
The '''Kowloon Park''' swimming pool complex (Tsim Sha Tsui MTR exit A1) is centrally located and offers visitors a wide range of services. Indoors is a main pool that is Olympic sized, a slightly smaller training pool, a diving pool and a leisure pool for younger swimmers. During the summer months the indoor pools are air-conditioned, whilst in winter the water is heated. Outdoors, during the summer season, they have four leisure pools to meet the needs of all ages. In summer, the pool is popular with teenagers but all age-groups make good use of the pools. A limited number of sun loungers are available.
The pools in Kowloon Park open at 6:30AM and close at 10PM. There are session breaks when the centre closes for lunch at 12PM until 1PM and then it closes for another hour from 5PM to 6PM. Most public pools in Hong Kong have similar opening and closing times.
Family changing rooms are available in addition to the regular changing rooms. Males and females have separate changing areas but changing rooms do not offer much privacy between users of the same sex. Swimmers are expected to provide their own towels and toiletries. A $5 coin is needed to operate a locker or you can provide your own padlock. An Octopus card or coins are needed for payment to enter the complex.
There are six public pools on Hong Kong island and a further 12 are located across the Kowloon peninsula. More pools of the same high standard are to be found in the New Territories. The pool located in Victoria Park is perhaps the least good because of its ageing facilities and close proximity to a major elevated highway.
Hiking in Hong Kong can be strenuous because of the steep trails, and during the summer months, mosquitos and the hot, humid, weather combine to make even the easiest trek a workout. It is highly recommended that you wear suitable clothes, and bring plenty of water and mosquito repellent. It is fairly unlikely that you will have a close encounter with venomous snakes, although they are present in most rural areas. Most local people choose the winter months to undertake the more demanding hiking trails. If you are not especially fit you might plan your route so that you take a bus or taxi to the highest point of the trail and then walk downhill.
Campsites in Hong Kong are plentiful and free of charge. Most are located within the country parks and range from basic sites serviced with only with a drop-toilet, to those that provide campers with modern toilet blocks with cold showers. Some sites have running water and sinks for washing dishes. A few campsites have places to buy drinking water and food, whilst many are serenely remote. Weekends and public holidays are predictably busy, especially in the more accessible places close to roads. Many Hong Kong people like to camp in large groups, talk loudly and stay awake until very late, so if you are noise sensitive try to find a remote campsite or learn to keep your temper.
There are four major trails in the Hong Kong SAR:
Hong Kong has some exceptional rural landscapes but visitor impact is an issue. Please respect the countryside by taking your litter home with you. Avoid using litter bins in remote areas as these are not emptied on a regular basis and your litter may be strewn around by hungry animals.
Hong Kong Outdoors [http://www.hkoutdoors.com] is packed with information on hiking and camping, and other great things to do and places to go in the wilderness areas of Hong Kong.
List of Locations in Hong Kong where you can hike
Perhaps the number one highlight of Hong Kong is the '''cuisine'''. Not only is it a showcase of traditional and modern Cantonese cuisine, the various regional cuisines from around China, such as northern Chinese, Chaozhou (Chiuchow/Teochew) and Sichuan are all well represented. There are also excellent Asian and some fairly good Western restaurants as well.
Residents tend to eat out a lot more than in other countries. Because of this, eating out can be fairly cheap, as long as you stick to local restaurants, and avoid the often overpriced Western counterparts.
While dining out, it is easy to find places offering mains for well under $80 offering both local and international food. Fastfood chains such as McDonald's and Cafe de Coral offer meals in the vicinity of $30. Mid-range restaurants generally charge in excess of $100 for mains, whilst at the top end the city's best restaurants (such as Felix or Aqua) can easily see you leave with a bill in excess of $1200 (including entrees (appetizers), mains, desserts and drinks).
Above all, Hong Kong is known for its '''dim sum''' (_y_S), delicately prepared morsels of Cantonese cuisine served from a never ending procession of carts and eaten with tea (for which reason the meal is often called 'yum cha', literally meaning, "drink tea"), . Dim sum is usually eaten for breakfast or lunch and is often the focus of family get-togethers on Sundays. An excellent place to go for dim sum is '''City Hall''' in Central - just be sure to ask for the dim sum restaurant. If you go to some restaurants in the more local areas (such as Kennedy Town) ask if they have an English menu. In such restaurants customers are often required to write their requirements on a tick-box sheet and hand them to the waiter.
Besides dim sum, Hong Kong is also known for its roasted meats, especially roast goose though duck and pork are also readily available. Roast meat is typically served with rice or noodles. Congee (__ ''jook''), a rice porridge, is also widespread in Hong Kong and is best eaten at the smaller eateries, though many of them have only Chinese menus. Nevertheless, that shouldn't put you off and nobody can claim to have experienced the cullinary culture of Hong Kong without having a taste of its congee.
Hong Kong also has some pretty good snacks, the most famous among ethnic Chinese tourists being a sweet pastry known as Sweetheart Cakes (_V_k__ ''lo po peng'') and the most famous shop selling this is ''Hang Heung'' (_P__), located at Yuen Long (___N) in the New Territories, though there are branches located throughout all of Hong Kong.
For those who wish to eat Hong Kong's famous seafood, there are different locations in Hong Kong's coastal areas where freshly caught seafood is cooked and served. Places like Sai Kung, Po Doi O, Lei Yu Mun, Lau Fau Shan are good places to find restaurants specialized in seafood. These restaurants have different tanks to keep the seafood alive and will present live seafood specimens to their patrons for them to choose before cooking. Raw fish, known as ''yu sang'' (____) in Hong Kong, is a relatively popular dish and is prepared differently from Japanese sashimi.
Many exotic delicacies like abalone, conch and bamboo clam can be found for sale in many seafood restaurants. The price of seafood increases where the species is a rarity. Some of the fish and seafood for sale may be endangered by overfishing, so the WWF urges consumers to be aware of buying endangered species. Try to avoid buying juvenile fish that have not had a chance to breed. A vigorous campaign has been fought in Hong Kong to stop people buying shark fin.
For those who want to have other, less endangered exotic food, snake meat is a popular delicacy in Hong Kong. The winter months are the season for eating snakes and it can be bought from a number of restaurants that specialise in this surprisingly tasty meat.
In addition to the usual Cantonese fare, Hong Kong is also home to several good Teochew (known locally as ''Chiuchow'') restaurants serving Teochew dishes such as braised goose (_b_@) and yam paste dessert (___D).
As with Chinese cuisine elsewhere, food in Hong Kong is generally eaten with chopsticks. The usual etiquette when using chopsticks, such as not sticking your chopsticks vertically into a bowl of rice, apply in Hong Kong as well. Dishes in smaller eateries might not come with a serving spoon though they would usually provide one if you request.
Hong Kong also has a staggering range of international restaurants serving cuisines from all over the world. These can often be found in, though not restricted to, entertainment districts such as Lan Kwai Fong, Soho or Knutsford Terrace. Of these, Soho is probably the best for eating as Lan Kwai Fong is primarily concerned with bars and clubs and on Friday and Saturday nights especially can become crowded with revellers. Top chefs are often invited or try to make their way to work in Hong Kong.
'''Island Seafood'''— No visitor to Hong Kong should leave without a visit to an outlying island to try one of the many excellent seafood restaurants. Take a ferry from the Central ferry terminal (opposite the IFC and alongside the Star Ferry) to either Lamma Island or Cheung Chau. Both of these islands have many seafood restaurants that are easy to find in attractive car-free locations. The fish and seafood is fresh, very fresh - indeed at the best restaurants you are expected to point and issue a death sentence upon your chosen fish or crab. Expect to find a mismatch between the high prices for the food and the quality of the restaurant. Sometimes the best food is served in the most basic eateries where tables maybe covered in cheap plastic covers rather than a more formal tablecloth. Often, Cantonese people value the food more than the decor. If one of your travelling companions does not like seafood, don't panic, many seafood restaurants have extensive menus that cater for all tastes.
'''Barbecue''' (BBQ) meals are a popular local pastime. Many areas feature free public barbecue pits where everybody roasts their own food, usually with long barbeque forks. It's not just sausages and burgers - the locals enjoy cooking a variety of things at BBQ parties, such as fish, beef meatballs, pork meatballs, chicken wings, and so on. A good spot is the Southern Coast (Hong Kong Island), where almost every beach is equipped with many free BBQ spots. Just stop by a supermarket and buy food, drinks and BBQ equipment. The best spots are Shek O (under the trees at the left hand side of the beach) and Big Wave Bay.
'''Wet Markets''' are still prevalent. Freshness is a key ingredient to all Chinese food, so frozen meat and vegetables are frowned upon, and most markets display freshly butchered '''beef and pork''' (with entrails), live fish in markets, and more '''exotic shellfish''', '''frogs''', turtles and snails. Local people often go to the market everyday to buy fresh ingredients, just like the restaurants.
'''Cooked Food Centres''' (''Dai Pai Dong'' ___v?) are often found in the same building as some of the indoor wet markets. Tables that were once located on the street have been swept into sterile concrete buildings. Inside, the atmosphere is like a food court without the frills. Cooked food centres provide economic solutions to diners, but you might need to take along a Cantonese speaker, or be brave.
Supermarkets include Wellcome, [http://www.wellcomehk.com], Park N Shop, [http://www.parknshop.com], and CRC Shop [http://www.crc-shop.com]. Speciality markets catering to Western tastes include City Super [http://www.citysuper.com.hk] and Great [http://www.greatfoodhall.com]. 24 hour convenience stores 7-Eleven and Circle K can be found anywhere.
Traditionally, Chinese people are more likely to drink tea, rather than an alcoholic beverage. Many east Asian people are genetically predisposed to alcohol intolerance, a condition that often manifests itself as the so-called 'Asian flush'. Nevertheless, a number of Chinese people do drink, but in moderate amounts, so don't expect to find a bar or pub in every neigbourhood.
Drinking alcohol with food is acceptable, and some enterprising cafe owners will offer beer to foreign tourists. Overall, there is no expectation to order alcohol with your meal, and if you are eating out with Chinese friends it may be the last thing on their minds. Away from the tourist gaze, due to lack of consumer demand, some restaurants do not sell alcohol.
If drinking alcohol is not your thing, then Hong Kong might be described as a teetotaler's paradise. Many eateries offer a good range of non-alcoholic drinks, including extravagant mocktails that might seem more like a dessert. Such drinks are often consumed with a thick straw and may contain a variety of exotic sweet ingredients.
In Hong Kong, bars are almost synoymous with expats and tourists. '''Lan Kwai Fong''' (Central), '''Wanchai''' and '''Knutsford Terrace''' (Kowloon) are the three main drinking areas where locals, expats and tourists mingle together. Here you will certainly find a party atmosphere, but don't expect the drunken brawls and rowdiness that you might be used to back home. If you come to Hong Kong and get drunk you will certainly risk drawing considerable attention to yourself if you cannot hold your drink.
The minimum age for drinking in a bar is 18 years. There is usually no requirement for young adults to prove their age.
Drinking out in Hong Kong can be expensive, especially if you choose imported drinks in fashionable western-style bars. However, away from the tourist trail, some Chinese restaurants may have a beer promotion aimed at meeting the needs of groups of diners. In cooked food centres, usually found at the wet markets, young women are often employed to promote a particular brand of beer. Convenience stores such as Circle-K, and supermarkets all sell a reasonable range of drinks. In Lan Kwai Fong, the 7-Eleven there is a very popular 'bar' for party-animals on a budget.
''Tsing Tao'' (pronounced 'ching dow') is a famous pilsner beer that began life in 1903 in the former German colony of Qingdao. Here, German brewers began production to meet the needs and palates of European expats. Other brews that are widely available include, San Miguel, Carlsberg and Blue Girl. Beers and rice wines produced for the market in mainland China are popular and are sold at competitive prices in supermarkets. The sales tax on alcohol is low compared to many western countries.
Details and recommendations for particular bars maybe found in the district pages of this travel guide.
Accommodation in Hong Kong tends to be on the small side, but ranges from cheap backpacker hostels to the ritziest luxury hotels can be found in the city. As a rule of thumb, expensive luxury accommodation are on Hong Kong Island while cheaper digs can be found in Kowloon and the New Territories . However, five-star hotels in Hong Kong are generally cheaper than in other major cities such as New York City, Sydney, Paris or London, though rooms are usually much smaller than their Western counterparts.
Besides luxury five-star hotels, there are also a variety of more affordable hotels, guest houses, backpacker hostels, and holiday camps. The government maintains an online list of licensed hotels and guesthouse. The online directory can be found here: [http://www.hadla.gov.hk/english/]. Prices can be checked, for reference, from one of the local travel agencies.
A few youth hostels [http://www.yha.org.hk] are available in Hong Kong for booking, but most of them are located outside the city. The YMCA 'The Salisbury' is a real YMCA, with a 3-4 Star hotel with nice, clean rooms (including family suites that overlook the harbor), private bathrooms, good security and so on. Located right at the southern end of Kowloon, in the Tsim Sha Tsui neighbourhood (next door to the Peninsula Hotel), with room rates starting around HK$900 per day, it is an ideal place for budget-minded travelers. For the truly budget-minded, there are numerous cheap hostels that can be found inside Chungking Mansions and Mirador Mansions buildings, near the intersection of Nathan Road and Mody Road in Kowloon. Chungking Mansions has been for decades the den of ultra low budget travellers. Today, the clientele is primarily African, Middle Eastern, Indian and Pakistani; the building is often accused of providing sleeping quarters for illegal foreign workers and undocumented immigrants. Unless you cannot find another place to stay, avoid Chungking and Mirador Mansions.
Also note that consumer protection is practically non-existent when dealing with the cheap hostels located at Nathan Road, if you must stay there never pay more than one night beforehand and if possible, use a credit card. Always demand to check the room beforehand, otherwise you can be charged for equipment that somebody else broke. Also be aware that many rooms do not have windows. If you are cheated, contact the tourist information centre near the Star Ferry pier in Kowloon.
Education is taken very seriously in Hong Kong and the territory has three universities which have a world-class reputation. The major tertiary/post-secondary institutions in Hong Kong are:
Visitors to Hong Kong will soon notice that school children wear 'British-style' uniforms that have been adapted to the sub-tropical climate. Unlike their western counterparts, students here look smart and wear their uniform with pride. It is a tradition for school students to sell 'flags' and collect money for charity on a Saturday morning.
You will need an '''employment visa''' in Hong Kong to take up any paid employment, even if you are from Britain or mainland China. This usually involves any potential employer making an application to the Immigration Department on your behalf; crucially you should have skills that are probably not available from the local job market. In June 2006 the Immigration Department revived a rule that allows the spouse of anyone currently working legally in Hong Kong to get a "dependent visa". This allows the spouse to take up any employment they wish, without having to seek approval from the Immigration Department. Unfortunately, a dependent visa is not available if the spouse is from mainland China, unless they have been living abroad for more than one year. In 2006, the Hong Kong government introduced a new program called the Quality Migrant Application Scheme which targets skilled, preferably university educated, labour with good knowledge of languages to come and settle in Hong Kong and seek for employment. For more information, visit the Hong Kong Immigration website[http://www.immd.gov.hk].
As large international cities go, Hong Kong is one of the '''safest''' in terms of crime and personal safety. The chances are that your home-town is far more crime-ridden than Hong Kong. Nevertheless, Hong Kong does have its share of '''petty crime''', that can be avoided with some street smarts.
Hong Kong cinema has often portrayed the triads (_O____) as machine gun wielding gangsters who shoot anything that gets in their way and just kill for the thrill. This reputation is very much undeserved and while the triads are still very active and powerful, even running a number of businesses, they generally would not target the average person on the street. Just avoid the triads by using some commonsense, such as not engaging in illegal betting or borrowing money from loan sharks, and they will not bother you.
Do not do business with people pushing their cards to you on the streets (so called street hawkers, mainly legal and illegal immigrants near Nathan Road, Kowloon). They may advertise tailor services and consumer electronics and the prices are much lower than in reliable chain stores and department stores. Usually you are asked to pay half beforehand, and when you come to claim your product, they say it's sold out and offer another model for much higher price. It can be very hard to get your money back from them as they might even hold your credit card as a 'hostage' and refuse to give it back unless you agree to take the more expensive item. Don't buy electronic items from brands you'd never heard of because they might be overpriced low quality Chinese products without any warranty anywhere else. Best advice is to avoid street hawkers completely (don't even reply to them or you will attract only more!), and if already in trouble, contact the nearest police officer immediately.
There are likely to be a number of scams to be found along the Avenue of Stars, Tsim Sha Tsui, where a group of people may target tourists. They will ask you to put banknotes into their bags for their magic performance, and of course after the performance you will find yourself getting back forged banknotes. Unlike places such as Thailand, monks in China are not always held in high regard and you should be suspicious of requests for money. In fact, Chinese Buddhist monks are fed by volunteers working in the temples and usually do not beg for food so if you see any monks begging for food, they are likely to be fake. Use your common sense at all times.
Watch your purse and wallet at all times. When in restaurants, do not sling your pack or purse behind your chair. Clutch any bags or purses in front of you when on the buses and railways. Always look like you know what you are doing or where you are going to avoid any pickpockets.
The emergency number for the police, fire and ambulance is 999. Be aware that police officers have the authority to check your ID/Passport without prior cause or suspicion. When there is a search for illegal immigrants, visitors, especially those who are not Caucasian, are also sometimes checked. Cooperate with the police during these investigations, though if police violate their authority, do not hesitate to call the Police Complaint hotline on 2866-7700. Police officers have a badge number displayed on their shoulders, remember it, dial the number mentioned above and report the matter.
Hong Kong has some great hikes, but be safe and always walk in a group, particularly on Lantau Island and the New Territories. Although you are never more than a few kilometres from urban areas, you may encounter natural obstacles such as steep ravines and washouts. Incomplete mobile phone services in some areas may add to the risk of exploring country parks. In many places you will only be able to pickup a mobile phone signal from mainland China, so you should carry a phone that is able to make international calls. If you are forced to use a signal from the mainland you should note that it is not possible to dial 999 for emergency assistance.
A number of hikers get lost each year, occasionally resulting in tragic death or injury. Hikers should equip themselves with detailed hiking maps, compass, mobile phone, snacks and adequate amounts of drinking water. Hazards include falling, overheating and snakes. Robberies have also been reported on remote footpaths, but the risk is very low, especially if you hike with friends. In some places hikers will encounter stray dogs, wild pigs, buffalo and monkeys. Please, do not, under any circumstances, feed wild animals.
The hiking and camping season is also the time of the year when hill fires are most likely to occur. At the entrances to country parks you will likely observe signs warning you of the current fire risk. With an average of 365 hill fires a year, you should take the risk of fire seriously and dispose of cigarettes and matches appropriately.
'''Typhoons''' normally occur during the months of May to November, and are particularly prevalent during September. Whenever a typhoon approaches within 800km of Hong Kong, typhoon warning signal 1 is issued. Signal 3 is issued as the storm approaches. When the storm is expected to hit, signal 8 is issued. At this point, most of business activities shuts down, including shops, restaurants and the transport system. However, some entertainment facilities such as cinemas may still open for business. Signal 9 and 10 may be issued depending on the intensity of the storm. During a typhoon visitors should heed all warnings very seriously and stay indoors until the storm has passed.
Taxis may still be available when signal 8 or above is raised, but they are under no obligation to serve passengers as insurance cover is no longer effective under such circumstances. It is sometimes possible to negotiate a fare with the driver, typically up to twice the meter fare.
'''Rainstorms''' also have their own warning system. In increasing order of severity, the levels are amber, red and black. A red or black rainstorm is a serious event and visitors should take refuge inside buildings. A heavy rainstorm can turn a street into a river and cause serious landslides.
The Hong Kong Observatory [http://www.weather.gov.hk] is the best place to get detailed weather information when in Hong Kong. In summer a convectional rainstorm may affect only a small area and give you the false impression that all areas are wet.
'''Signage''' on the roads in Hong Kong is similar to British usage. Zebra lines (zebra crossings) indicate crossing areas for pedestrians and traffic comes from the right. To stay safe, visit the Transport Department's website [http://www.td.gov.hk/road_safety/road_users_code/index.htm] for complete details.
'''Crossing''' roads by foot should also be exercised with great care. Traffic in Hong Kong generally moves fast once the signal turns green and motorists frequently drive across pedestrian crossings even when the green man is showing that it is safe to walk. To help both the visually impaired and even people who are not, an audible aid is played at every intersection. Rapid bells indicate "Walk"; Intermittent bells (10 sets of 3 bells) indicate "Do Not Start to Cross"; and slow bells indicate "Do Not Walk".
''' Jay-walking''' is an offence and police officers maybe out patrolling accident black-spots. Its is not uncommon to see local people waiting to cross an empty road - when this happens, you should also wait because it maybe that they have noticed that the police are patrolling the crossing.
One unexpected cause of sickness in Hong Kong is the '''extreme temperature change''' between 35__C humid summer weather outdoors and 18__C air-conditioned buildings and shopping malls. Some people experience '''cold symptoms''' after moving between the two extremes so often; it is not unusual to wear a sweater or covering to stay warm indoors (though the Hong Kong Government currently encourages the temperature in air-conditioned buildings be kept at 25.5 __C for energy saving, etc.)
'''Tap water''' in Hong Kong has been proven to be drinkable and safe, although not all the locals drink it. Old habits die hard and a number of people still prefer to boil and chill their drinking water when it is taken from the tap. The official advice from the Water Board is that the water is perfectly safe to drink unless you are living in an old building with outdated plumbing and poorly maintained water tanks. Bottled water is widely available but remember that Hong Kong's landfill sites are filling up fast and plastic bottles are a major environmental problem.
Healthcare standards in Hong Kong are generally on par with the West so finding a doctor is not much of problem should you get sick. Most doctors can also speak English fluently.
Pollution is a contentious topic in Hong Kong and is the number one issue among environmental campaigners. Much of the pollution originates from factories in mainland China and from Hong Kong motorists. Levels of pollution can vary according to the season. The winter monsoon can bring polluted air from the mainland, whilst the summer monsoon can bring cleaner air off the South China Sea.
Some Westerners say Hong Kong can be a rude city with the large crowds, pushing, shoving, and crowdedness — similar to New York City or London. However, it can be best described as hurried and efficient (terse, perhaps), but not mean spirited. Even on a night out, the atmosphere is rarely menacing and most people in shops and restaurants are helpful and friendly. Most folks know a modicum of English, since Hong Kong was a British colony, so you don't have to worry about offending anyone by speaking English. Some Hong Kong people use the term ''gwai lo'' (commonly translated as "foreign ghost" in English; it literally means "ghost guy") to refer to Caucasian foreigners. However, locally, this term is simply used as a term to refer to Caucasians and usually no longer carries the derogatory meaning it once intended.
Manners are very important to local people. However, their ideas of manners can be different from Western ideas and this is especially obvious when it comes to table manners. A good number of the people you see on streets are visitors, and it can be difficult to tell the difference between mainland Chinese, Hong Kong Chinese and other Asians. All these may carry no meaning at all to non-locals, but they do to local people and it is especially apparent in terms of manners. The culture itself and the level of public education is very different across the region (per Americans and Mexicans, Germans and Italians). English is a second language to the locals, and they are usually a lot more reserved (i.e. especially polite) when using it.
In any case, one should note that Hong Kong has significant cultural differences from mainland China due to British influences and the lack of communist influences. In particular, as Hong Kong was then a British colony, it was largely spared the Cultural Revolution that devastated much of the mainland. For instance, spitting on the pavement, which is very common in the mainland, is considered uncivilised in Hong Kong. The mad dash for seats seen in the underground train systems in mainland cities is also considered uncivilised in Hong Kong, so move in an orderly manner when entering the MTR trains.
Due to increased tourism and competition from both mainland China and other places, courtesy in Hong Kong has increased dramatically. Now, when you approach a department or chain clothing stores, staff greet you when you enter the store and thank you when you leave the store, even if you haven't bought anything. Just a quick glance at a particular item will instantly provoke an employee to ask if you need assistance. Usually, they will stay at your side getting the right sizes, etc until you are ready to make the purchase. Some visitors will be impressed by this kind of service, though others might find the service rather pushy. Although it is perfectly fine to ignore the sales staff, it is courteous to at least respond with a simple hello/good-bye.
As with anywhere in China, politics is generally a sensitive topic not to be discussed. While nobody denies that Hong Kong has been a part of China since the handover in 1997, the political camp is somewhat split between pro-Beijing and pro-democracy groups. Current issues include a request for universal suffrage for the people of Hong Kong, which the central government in Beijing has been reluctant to grant. Relations between the mainland and Hong Kong are also rather complicated. On one hand, people in Hong Kong like mainland tourists as they are the biggest spenders in Hong Kong. On the other hand, they also blame mainlanders for stealing the jobs from Hongkongers as mainlanders are usually willing to accept lower pay. To sum it up, avoid political discussions unless you know the situation or you listen well.
Hong Kong has '''communications facilities''' as modern as anywhere in the world. The cost, particularly for mobile phone users, is one of the cheapest globally.
Postal services are efficient and of high quality. You will find post offices in major city areas and outside of opening hours, coin-operated stamp vending machines. You can buy stamps (sets of ten stamps of $1.4, $2.4, $3) from many convenience stores such as 7-Eleven or Circle K (OK). It is relatively inexpensive to ship your purchases back home from any Post Office.
Hong Kong has one of the highest penetrations of broadband in the world, and almost all homes and businesses are connected to the Internet through high-bandwidth broadband connections. '''Cyber cafes''' are widespread in the city, but they are generally geared towards gamers and some require a deposit, usually around $100.
For simple internet access, you may want to go to free computer terminals in cafes such as Pacific Coffee Company [http://www.pacificcoffee.com] and sometimes Starbucks. Free terminals can be found in some public areas, such as shopping malls, the airport, the MTR (e.g. Wanchai station, Central Station, Tsim Sha Shui Station) and public libraries.
Hong Kong has a total of 11 different mobile operators, of which CSL is the largest. If you have a GSM handset (GSM 900, 1800) or W-CDMA (UMTS or 3G-GSM) handset, you can purchase a prepaid SIM card to use in your phone. They can be bought for cash at most convenience stores. Cheaper 2G (from any provider) and newer 3G cards (only from 3) are available, but both are relatively inexpensive. If your CDMA handset has a SIM slot, you can pick up the less popular CDMA SIM cards (only from 3), note that the CDMA network is not popular in Hong Kong, so coverage is not as great as that of GSM and W-CDMA (UMTS). A card with a value of around $50 should be sufficient unless you are making international calls or you plan on using data services (3's HSDPA mobile broadband SIM is most likely cheaper at $48 per day than using the hotel's internet connection). Most cards provide standard services such as SMS and voice mail. For the adventurous types, discounted prepaid SIM Cards can be purchased in Ap Liu Street in Sham Shui Po, and "Sin Daat" arcade in Mongkok (Argyle St - close to Lady street). Cheap GSM and 3G phones can be purchased here as well (be careful, some phones sold here are 3G only). Mobile phone numbers have eight digits and begin with 5, 6 or 9.
For those on short visits, international roaming is available in Hong Kong onto its GSM 900/1800 and 3G (UTMS/W-CDMA) networks, subject to agreements between operators. For those coming from the mainland, some China Unicom SIMs will provide Hong Kong roaming at purchase time, and China Mobile provides a dual-number service which results in cheaper rates than straight roaming.
Although the mobile phone toll in Hong Kong is one of the lowest in the world, all mobile phone companies charge for BOTH incoming and outgoing calls (similar to USA, but different from most European countries, Japan, Taiwan or Korea). Coverage is generally excellent except in some remote areas, and is available on almost all operators even when underground, including the whole MTR system, on board the trains and cross-harbour tunnels.
Payphones are available and $1 is for a local call for 5 minutes usually. If you don't have a mobile and need to make a short local call, most restaurants, supermarkets and shops will oblige if you ask nicely. Public payphones are becoming more and more difficult to find on streets nowadays, but MTR stations usually have public phones. The airport has a courtesy phone just before you step out of the glassed area after the customs - you cannot go back there once you have left.
Hong Kong has some foreign embassies or consulates for your visa needs.