'''Copacabana''' is a small town located on the Bolivian shore of Lake Titicaca. Situated relatively close to the capital of La Paz, it's a popular resort destination for foreign travellers and locals alike.

Understand

History

This is the ''original'' Copacabana -- actually lending its name to the beach in Rio (and yes, the Barry Manilow song). The name derives from the Aymara ''kota kawana'', meaning "view of the lake", and the region was revered by the Inca even before the Spaniards built their chapel of the Virgin and turned it into a Catholic pilgrimage site.

Orientation

The town's central square is '''Plaza 2 de Febrero''', and from there '''Avenida 6 de Agosto''' slides down to the lakeside. It's packed with souvenir shops, hostels, and restaurants, largely catering to foreign tourists. '''Avenida Jaregui''' one block north has a more local feel, with street markets and grocery stores.

Get in

By bus

Buses leave from La Paz' cemetery bus terminal; the fare is around Bs16 and travel time is 3-1/2 hours. At the Tiquina Strait, you get off the bus and take a quick ferry ride (Bs1.50) to pick up the bus (which is ferried across by barge) on the other side. Buses arrive in Copacabana at Plaza 2 de Febrero and leave from Plaza Sucre.

Buses also leave from Puno in Peru, and take roughly the same 3-1/2 hours to arrive in Copacabana; half an hour is typically spent at the border, just 5 miles south of Copacabana.

Vans and/or shared cabs leave for the Peruvian border from Plaza Sucre as soon as they fill up. 3 Bs, 30 minutes. From the border to the Peruvian town of Yungani its about 2 km, 1 Sol by van. From Yungani to Puno buses and vans leave several times every hour, 5 Soles. This way is somewhat slower and less comfortable, but cheaper, than direct buses.

It is possible to get to/from Sorata without going back to La Paz. Get on a La Paz bound bus/minibus/micro from either town, tell the driver you wish to go to Sorata/Copacabana and you will be dropped off at the small lakeside town of Huarina (2 hours from La Paz). Cross the road and wait for a Sorata/Copacabana bound bus/minibus with space to pass. They should honk their horn if they have space and see people waiting, but it wouldn't hurt to keep an eye out and flag one down if you see it first. Best to get started early as you may have a bit of a wait at Huarina - it should still be quicker than going all the way to La Paz then 2 hours back in the same direction though.

Get around

The town is quite small, so taxis are hardly needed. From 2 de Febrero, you can hire pedicabs to carry luggage to your hotel.

See

  • '''Copacabana Cathedral''', completed in 1619, is one of the oldest churches in Bolivia and is a fine example of Moorish style architecture. (The current structure dates to 1805.) It houses the statue of '''La Virgen de la Candelaria''' (also called the "Dark Virgin"), reputed to have miraculous healing powers. The original statue was carved from cactus in 1583 by Francisco Tito Yupanqui, nephew of Inca emperor Huayna Capac. It has made the church Bolivia's most revered pilgrimage site, and its reputation traveled far and wide in its time, even leading someone to create a replica and build a chapel for it on a beach in Brazil...
  • Do

    The imposing hill of '''Cerro Calvario''' overlooks the town from the north end of the beach, and it's a moderately strenous 30-minute climb. There are fourteen stations of the cross along the way, where you may want to stop and pray for stronger legs and lungs. The best time to go is around sunset, and hope the weather cooperates.

    On the other end of the shore are two hills with ancient Inca ruins.

    Money

    There is one well guarded bank in Copacabana on Avenida 6 de Agosto, between Plaza 2 de Febrero and the cathedral, with an ATM that only supports cards issued by the bank itself. However, it is possible to withdraw money from ATM machines inside; bring your passport for identification.

    There are several ''cambistas'' changing dollars, euros or Peruvian soles, but with poor rates. '''Prodem''' also change dollars for a better rate and gives cash advances on VISA and mastercard creditcards.

    Eat

    The one and only culinary specialty is ''trucha'', or salmon trout, fished from the lake. Practically every single restaurant serves it, and there's a long row of identical stalls on the beach. Many places also serve pizza and pasta, presumably for those who've had enough (or don't like) fish.

  • '''Pueblo Viejo''', Av. 6 de Agosto. They have a real espresso machine. Friendly and helpful (free tour guide!) English-speaking owner. Live music at nights.
  • '''Pachamama''', Av. 6 de Agosto
  • '''Mankha Uta''', Av. 6 de Agosto
  • '''Kala Uta''', Av. 6 de Agosto
  • '''Sujna Wasi''', Av. Jaregui
  • '''La Nimbo'''
  • '''Kota Kauhana''', [http://www.hotelrosario.com/lago/], The most expensive restaurant in town and dinner is under US$10. Located inside the Hotel Rosario del Lago.
  • Sleep

    Budget

    Av. 6 de Agosto has enough hostels and inexpensive hotels to accommodate hordes of backpackers.

  • '''Hospedaje Aroma''', Jauregui & Destacamento. Basic but seriously cheap. Try to get a room on the top floor, the views there are great. Price Bs.10.
  • '''Hostal Sonia''', a 5-10 min walk from the main tourist drag. Cheap, but the terrible shower had us changing accommodations after one night. No hot water, and the shower was located in our tiny bathroom almost overtop of the sink. Trucks and buses cruise by at all hours, always honking to make the turn around the hostel. Bs.50 for a room with double bed and private bathroom.
  • Mid-range

  • '''Hotel Chasqui d'Oro''' [http://www.geocities.com/chasquihotel], Av. Costanera 55 (''on the lakeside, 2 blocks south of Av. 6 de Agosto''), 2-862-2343. A grand-looking terraced hotel with a wonderful view of the lake. $10 per person (January 2005).
  • '''La Leyenda''', down on the beachfront. Beautifully decorated, inside and out. The hotel_Ls owner has a real suave and passionate manner about him, which is a treat. Although the breakfast is the same continental style of most other hostels, they put a little bit of extra love into it. Try to get a room on the second or third floors, as the views (especially sunsets) are great. Bs. 100 for a very large room with double bed and private (excellent) bathroom. Highly recommended - support the little guy!
  • '''Hotel La Cupula''' [http://www.hotelcupula.com], La Cupula is nestled on the hillside of lake Titicaca, a location, which overlooks both the lake and the Village of Copacabana. Calle Michel Perz 1-3, Phone 862-2029, bolivia@hotelcupula.com. Singles from 75 Bs, heating, breakfast extra. Real hot showers.
  • '''Hotel Rosario del Lago''' [http://www.hotelrosario.com/lago/], Considered the best hotel in town and it's only US$35 a night (single, US$45 double, larger/suite US$45-95). The modern hotel is designed in the local contemporary style and decorated in traditional Bolivian textiles. Every room has a view of the Lake and the hotel includes a small museum and the top restaurant, Kota Kauhana.
  • Contact

  • '''Internet''' is among the most expensive in the country at Bs 8-12 an hour.
  • Get out

  • There's hardly any point in going to Copacabana without a trip to Isla del Sol. Boats leave around 8:30 for full day tours with stops at the north and south of the island. Half day tours are also available in the afternoons, typically visiting just the south.
  • Walk all the way to Yampupata. It's about 17 kilometres or 4-5 hours, along a dirt road with a few ups and downs and very little traffic. The scenery on the way is superb. If you don't want to continue to Isla del Sol, it can be kind of hard to arrange transport back. A better option is probably to go there by car/bus/truck and return on foot. This also brings the advantage of walking with the sun mostly in your back.