<!-- Keep this list limited to the 9 most important cities for tourists --> <!-- Keep this list limited to the 9 most important cities for tourists --> <!-- Keep this list limited to the 9 most important cities for tourists -->
<!-- Keep this list limited to the 9 most important other destinations for tourists --> <!-- Keep this list limited to the 9 most important other destinations for tourists --> <!-- Keep this list limited to the 9 most important other destinations for tourists -->
Archeological finds of prehistoric toolmaking date back to 70,000 BC, and the first pottery is found around 8000 BC. Comb-pattern pottery culture peaked around 3500-2000 BC.
Korea's history begins with the founding of '''Gojoseon''' (also called ''Ancient Choson'') by the legendary Dangun in 2333 BC. Archeological and contemporaneous written records of Gojoseon as a kingdom date back to around 7th-4th century BC. Gojoseon was eventually defeated by the Chinese Han Dynasty and Korea was governed as four commanderies of the Han. The political chaos following the fall of the Han Dynasty in China eventually allowed native tribes to regain control of Korea, eventually becoming the '''Three Kingdoms''' of Korea, namely Goguryeo, Baekje, and Silla,(Although Gaya Kingdom -100 ~ 1 B.C. - 562 A.D. existed, It was conquered by Silla) which vied for control of the peninsula. Despite repeated attempts by the Chinese Sui Dynasty and later, the Tang Dynasty to conquer the Korean peninsula, Goguryeo managed to repel them. Eventually, Goguryeo fell to a Silla-Tang alliance, which had earlier defeated Baekje, when it was attacked simultaneously from the north and south, thus unifying the peninsula under Silla. Even though the Tang later invaded, Silla forces managed to drive them out, thus maintaining Korea's independence, but at the same time serving as a tributary to the Tang. After the fall of Goguryeo, a man from Goguryeo, Dae Joyeong, formed an army of the Goguryeo and Malgal people(a Tungusic tribe) and settled eventually near Jilin in Manchuria, and there founded Balhae'''Unified Silla''' was replaced by the '''Goryeo''' (also ''Koryo'') dynasty, from which the modern name "Korea" derives. Goryeo was then replaced by the '''Joseon''' (also ''Choson'') dynasty after a coup by one of its generals, which ruled Korea from 1392 to 1910, one of the longest actively ruling dynasties in world history. It was also during the Joseon dynasty, during the late 16th century when Korea experienced the first of many invasions by the Japanese, then led by the warlord Toyotomi Hideyoshi, leaving their mark in the form of Japanese-style fortresses in the Gyeongsang region. However, an alliance between the Joseon dynasty and the Chinese Ming dynasty eventually defeated the Japanese, and this, in addition to the untimely death of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, forced the Japanese to pull out of Korea, though they would return with a vengence some 300 years later. Throughout most of its history from the Three Kingdoms period up till 1895, the various Korean states were tributary states to China, resulting in heavy Chinese influences in Korean culture, but at the same time preserving native Korean elements.
Korea's status as a Chinese protectorate ended in 1895 after China's defeat in the Sino-Japanese War and the signing of the Treaty of Shimonoseki. Under the terms of the treaty, Qing Dynasty China was to recognize the independence of Korea, which eventually became a puppet state of Japan.
In the early 20th century, Japan invaded Korea, thus beginning a 40-year occupation of the country, first, as a protectorate beginning in 1905, and through formal annexation beginning in 1910. There were numerous rebellions, but through means such as suppression of resistance and a cultural assimilation policy that included forcing Koreans to take Japanese names and forbidding them to speak the Korean language, Japan maintained control of the Korean peninsula as a colony until the end of World War II.
After Japan's defeat in World War II, US-occupied southern half and Soviet-occupied northern half each declared separate states in 1948. The '''Korean War''' (1950-53) began with North Korea's attack, and when US and other UN forces intervened on South Korea's side, China supported the North. An armistice was signed in 1953 splitting the peninsula along a demilitarized zone at about the 38th parallel, but a peace treaty has never been signed.
Thereafter, despite initially being economically outdone by North Korea, South Korea achieved rapid economic growth under the leadership of former dictator and president Park Chung Hee, with per capita income rising to roughly 20 times the level of North Korea, also earning it a place among the East Asian Tigers. South Korea is now a liberal democracy and the 10th largest economy in the world. In June 2000, a historic first summit took place between the South's President Kim Dae-jung and the North's leader Kim Jong-il (leading Kim Dae-jung to awarding first Nobel Peace Prize for South Korea), but the peace process has moved at a glacial pace.
Although it is the 12th most densely populated country, South Korea now has the '''world's lowest birthrate''' (1.16 children per woman nationwide and even less in Seoul), and dealing with this will be one of the major problems of the 21st century. The sex ratio is skewed strongly male, with about 112 men for every 100 women. About 85% of South Koreans live in urban areas.
Though East Asian tourists have been visiting Korea in droves since the turn of the millenium due to the Korean wave or ''hallyu'', it is still largely off the radar of most Western tourists, and Western visitors remain very much a rarity even in Seoul. As such, having locals stare or listen to your conversations is a common experience among Westerners. Children in particular will approach you or shout a "Hi!" in passing. Much of this is done out of curiousity and the eargerness to hear English spoken by native speakers. Although most Koreans have been educated in English since elementary school and most companies set a premium on possessing a certain level of fluency, in general the people will find it difficult to understand or speak it. However, most in the city will be able to read and write it. Tourists will normally find Koreans to be quite friendly and helpful when trying to find your way around.
Having been a part of China briefly, and a tributary state of China for much of its history, heavy Chinese influences are evident in traditional Korean culture. Nevertheless, some fundamental differences remain and Korea has managed to retain a distinct cultural identity from China. Koreans are fiercely proud of their heritage and their resistance to both Chinese and Japanese domination.
During the Joseon dynasty Korea's dominant philosophy was a strict form of '''Confucianism''', perhaps even more strict than seen in China. People were separated into a rigid hierarchy, with the king at the apex, an elite of officials and warriors below him, a small middle class of merchants below them, then a vast population of peasants and a hereditary class of slaves. Men were superior to women, educated were superior to the uneducated and everybody stuck to his defined role or faced the severe consequences. Buddhism and its supposedly dangerous notions of equality and individual spiritual pursuit were suppressed.
While the Joseon Dynasty ceased to exist in 1910, its legacy lives on in Korean culture: education and hard work are valued above all else, and women still struggle for equal treatment.
Koreans believe that the things that sets them the most apart from other Asian cultures is their cuisine, their language and their ''hangeul'' script. Outsiders will note their extreme modernity, tempered by a well-developed artistic and architectural joyfulness. Nothing goes undecorated if it can be helped, and they have a knack for stylish interior design. They have a vibrant film industry, and South Korea is one of only a few countries in the world in which local films have a greater market share than Hollywood films.
Korea has a significant number of '''Christians''' (26%) and '''Buddhists''' (26%). Some 46% of the country profess to follow no particular religion. Christianity is the dominant religion in Seoul and other major urban centres, while in more rural parts of the country, people generally practise a mix of Buddhism, Shamanism and other folk beliefs.
Badminton, table tennis and bowling are also popular and facilities for the public are widely available in cities. Korean martial arts such as Taekwondo are also popular. Golf also has a strong following, with membership fees for Korea's top golf clubs being more expensive than those in neighbouting Japan or even the United States, with many of the world's top female golfers either originating from Korea or being of Korean descent.
'''History'''
'''Culture'''
Military personnel travelling under the SOFA for South Korea are not required to possess a passport for entry, provided they hold a copy of their travel orders and a military ID. On the other hand, dependents '''must hold a passport and A-3 visa for entry'''.
Incheon International Airport, about 1 hour west of Seoul, is the country's largest airport, with good connections throughout the world. This is also arguably ''the best run and best designed airport in the world'' - a pleasure to use, although if you arrive late watch out for pushy taxi drivers lying about the hotel buses and trying to get you to pay 3x the normal fare. There are direct inter-city buses to many locations throughout South Korea just outside the international arrival hall. You can buy the tickets at the airport.
Busan's Gimhae airport and Jeju field significant numbers of international flights, links from the rest being limited to nearby major Japanese and Chinese cities. The "city shuttle" services from Seoul's otherwise mostly domestic Gimpo Airport to Tokyo-Haneda and Shanghai-Hongqiao are quite convenient though.
[http://www.koreanair.com/ Korean Air] and [http://www.flyasiana.com/ Asiana] are the principal carriers to and from South Korea. Air France, KLM, Lufthansa, Finnair, Aeroflot and Turkish Airlines serve Seoul-Incheon and Busan(Munich-Seoul-Busan) from Europe(including Russia). United, Northwest and Delta all serve Seoul-Incheon from the United States, although many flights stop over in Tokyo-Narita. [http://www.singaporeair.com Singapore Airlines] has nonstop flights from San Francisco and Vancouver.
Incheon's International Ferry Terminal 1 (Yeonan Budu, ????) has services to several cities in China, such as Weihai, Dandong, Qingdao and Tianjin. The largest operator is '''Jinchon''' [http://www.jinchon.co.kr/], but Incheon Port has full listings on their website [http://www.incheonferry.co.kr/]. The Chinese ports of Rizhao, Rongcheng and Lianyungang, all in Shandong province, can also be accessed by ferry from Pyeongtaek.
There are also weekly departures from Sokcho (Gangwon-do) to Vladivostok from US$270 operated by Dong Chun Ferry Co. Ltd. [http://www.dongchunferry.co.kr].
National train operator '''Korail''' [http://www.korail.go.kr] connects major cities in South Korea. Neglected for a long time, a large amount of money has been plowed into the network in recent years and trains are now quite competitive with buses on speed and price, and much safer and more comfortable to boot. The main problem is that the network is still a little limited and services in rural areas are limited, with trains only once every few hours.
Particularly useful are the high-speed '''Korea Train eXpress''' ('''KTX''') [http://ktx.korail.go.kr/] services between Seoul and Busan via Daegu and Daejeon, which use French TGV technology to zip along at up to 300 km/h. The full trip currently takes 160 minutes, a figure which is expected to improve to 116 minutes by 2010 when the second stretch of high-speed track is taken into use. The KTX trains have 18 cars with the first 3 being first class and the rest reserved economy seating except the very last car (number 18) which is open seating. There are drink vending machines on board and an attendant that comes by with a snack cart which includes reasonably priced beer, soda, cookies, candy, sausages, hardboiled eggs, and ''kimbap'' (rice rolls).
<div style="float:right; margin-left:15px; margin-right:15px; text-align:center"> {| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" ! Type !! Time !! Price </div>
Non-KTX trains are poetically ranked as ''Saemaeul'' (???, "New Village"), ''Mugunghwa'' (???, "Rose of Sharon") and ''Tonggeun'' (??), corresponding roughly to express, semi-express and local services. Saemaeul trains are a little pricier than buses, while Mugunghwa are about 30% cheaper. However Saemaeul trains are extremely comfortable, having seats that are comparable to business class seats on airplanes. Though with the introduction of the KTX, there are much fewer Saemaeul and Mugunghwa services, they are worth trying them out. Tonggeun, formerly ''Tonggil'', are cheapest of all, but long-distance, non-aircon services have been phased out and they're now limited to short stopping commuter services.
Seoul also has an extensive commuter train network that smoothly interoperates with the massive subway system, and Busan, Daejeon, Daegu and Incheon also have subway services.
There is a somewhat pointless division of long-distance buses into '''express buses''' (???? ''gosok beoseu'') and '''inter-city buses''' (???? ''si-oe beoseu''), which often use separate terminals to boot. Express buses are marginally faster on long runs, but inter-city buses go to more places. For additional comfort, look for Udeung buses (?? ??) which have just three seats across instead of the usual four; these cost about 50% extra.
However, if traveling in the big cities, especially Seoul, driving is not recommended as the roads are plagued with traffic jams and many drivers tend to get reckless under such conditions, weaving in and out of traffic. Drivers would often try to speed past traffic lights when they are about to turn red, though they would still stop if the light turns red before they reach the junction. Driving habits in Korea, while not the best, are still significantly better than in China. Note that road courtesy is almost non-existent in Korean cities and it is best to read up on Korean road culture before attempting to drive.
Koreans speak '''Korean''', and knowing a few words of this will come in very handy. Unfortunately the language is rather drastically different from any Western language in its grammar, and pronunciation is rather difficult for the English speaker to get right (though not tonal). However Hanguel has contributed to Korea having '''the lowest illiteracy rate in the world'''.(Since 1989, UNESCO gives a '''King Sejong Award''' to the persons who make a distinguished contribution to helping illiterate people in the memory of King Sejong, who developed Hanguel).
Depending on which part of the country you go to, various different dialects are spoken, though standard Korean, which is based on the Seoul dialect, is understood and spoken by almost everyone. Most notably among the dialects, the '''Gyeongsang dialect''' spoken around Busan and Daegu is considered to be rather rough and aggressive compared to standard Korean, and the '''Jeju dialect''' spoken on Jeju island is known for being almost incomprehensible to speakers of standard Korean.
Han-geul is a phonemic writing system, and it consists of letters for consonants and vowels. Unlike general phonemic writing systems such as the Roman Alphabet, it was uniquely designed to combine consonant letters and vowel letters into syllabic units. For example, a word, _e??(man)_f is written like_e??_fnot like _e?????_f. The syllable as a letter is divided into three positions: the initial sound, the medial sound, and the final consonant?. Any one among 19 consonant letters can be an initial sound._e?_famong those 19 letters does not have a sound. For example, in case of _e??(milk)_f, two_e?_fs are just there filling the space without making any sound in _e?_fand _e?_f. Any one among 21 vowel letters can be a medial sound. One out of 16 single consonant letters(This is called Hotbatchim ;?,?,?,?,?,?,?,?,?,?,?,?,?,?,?,?)? and 11 double consonant letters(This is called Gyeopbatchim ; ?,?,?,?,?,?,?,?,?,?,?)? can fill the final consonant location. In Korean language, there are largely three levels of politeness depending on who you are talking to. Generally when you are talking to your friends or people who are younger than you, you can use _einformal forms_f(??! /Hi!); when you need to be very polite or in a formal setting, you have to use _eformal polite forms_f(??????? / Hello!); In most daily conversations, you can use _einformal polite forms_f (?????? / Hello!). The degree of formality and politeness is like the following: ???.(Thank you!) < ????.(Thank you!)< ?????. (Thank you!)
Many Korean words can also be written with much more complex Chinese characters, known as ''hanja'' (??,____) in Korean, and these are still occasionally mixed into text, but are increasingly few and far between. Nowadays, ''hanja'' are mainly used for disambiguation if the meaning is ambiguous when written in ''hangul''. In such instances, the ''hanja'' is usually written in parentheses next to the ''hangul''. Hanja are also used to mark ''janggi'' (??,____) or Korean chess pieces, in newspaper headlines as well as in personal names on official documents.
Learning to read hangeul before you arrive in Korea will make traveling much easier, as many signs and menus are written in hangul only. Even basic pattern-matching tricks come in handy: for example, if you know that a circle at the bottom of a block is read ''-ng'', you can already distinguish Pyongyang (??) from Seoul (??). Further, the Korean words for many common products -coffee, juice, computer- are often the same as the English words, but will be written in Hangul. If you can read hangul, you'll find survival Korean surprisingly easy.
The spelling of Korean words in Roman letters can be quite inconsistent, so don't be too surprised to see adjacent signs for ''Gwangalli'' and ''Kwanganri'' — it's the same place. In 2000, the government officially standardized on the Revised Romanization system also used in Wikitravel, but you will frequently encounter older McCune-Reischauer spellings and just plain weird spellings. Notably, words beginning with ''g, d, b, j'' may be spelled with ''k, t, p, ch'' instead, and the vowels ''eo '' and ''eu'' may be spelled ''o'' and ''u''. The letters ''l'', ''r'' and ''n'' also get swapped often, and the vowels ''i'' and ''u'' are sometimes written as ''ee'' and ''oo'' respectively. In foreign words imported into Korean, ''f'' turns into ''p'', so don't be too surprised by a cup of ''keopi'' or a round of ''golpeu''.
All Koreans who have attended elementary school have taken '''English''' lessons as part of their education, and the English level of the country is being improved by government policy and investments. However, due to lack of practice (as well as fear of mispronunciation), many Koreans have little more than a very basic grasp of English phrases in actual conversation. If you're in a pinch and need someone who speaks English, your best bet would generally be the high school students. Reading and writing comes much easier however, and often people will be able to read and understand a great deal of English even without any practice with real conversation. Nonetheless, travellers can get by in major cities with English only; however it goes without saying that learning basic Korean phrases will enrich your travel experience.
A common experience for western travellers in South Korea is to be approached by children interested in practicing their English skills. They will often take a picture of you, as proof they really talked to you.
Older folks may also still speak some Japanese. The city of Busan, being a short trip from Fukuoka in Japan has a larger number of Japanese speakers per capita, and the dialect itself is more similar to Japanese in the same way that the Japanese dialect in Fukuoka also has a large Korean influence. However, many Koreans (especially older ones) still resent the Japanese for the atrocities committed during the occupation, so try not to address a Korean in Japanese unless you have no other choice. Thanks to the "Korean wave" (''hallyu'') of Korean pop music and soap operas throughout East Asia, many shopkeepers in touristy areas speak some Japanese, Mandarin or Cantonese.
Coins come in denominations of ?10, ?50, ?100 and ?500, while banknotes come in denominations of ?1000 (blue), ?5000 (red) and ?10,000 (green). ?1 and ?5 coins, while they exist, are very rare. The largest bill currently in circulation is only ?10,000 (US$7, ?5), which makes carrying around large sums of currency a bit of a chore. However, a yellow ?50,000 banknote will be introduced into circulation in June. ?100,000 "checks" are frequently used, and some of the checks go up to ?10,000,000 in value. These checks are privately produced (by banks, etc.) which can be used as "c-notes".
A new series of notes was released in 2006/2007, so expect to see several versions floating around, and be prepared for hassles with vending machines which may not accept the new or old versions.
ATM are ubiquitous, but most Korean ATMs don't accept foreign cards, only special '''Global ATM'''s do. These can be found at airports and some subway stations in major cities, as well as in many Family Mart convenience stores, so stock up before heading to the countryside. Citibank cashcard holders can withdraw in every Citibank branches(ATM) in South Korea with charge of US$1 and check balance of checking account for free.(Chinese, English and Korean services are available on ATM.) '''Credit card''' acceptance, on the other hand, is very good, and all but the very cheapest restaurants and motels will take Visa and Mastercard. (It is illegal to refuse credit cards unless it's a very small shop)
'''Bargaining''' is common at outdoor markets and applies to everything they may have to offer. However stating a monetary amount would be a mistake. Normally what you would say is ''ssage juseyo'' (?? ???). That means "cheaper, please." Doing this once or twice would suffice. The drawback is you will rarely be discounted more than a few dollars. Refrain from doing this in any indoor venue whether there are price tags or not.
Few fall in love with Korean food at first bite, but like most acquired tastes, it's an addictive one once you get used to it. Korean food influences and has been influenced heavily by both China and Japan. Still, Korean food is definitely in a class of its own, mixing spicy chillies and copious amounts of garlic with delicate ingredients like raw fish. Although Korean food is quite low in fat, a fact attested to by the observation that very few South Koreans are overweight, those with sodium-limited diets should beware, as Korean cuisine has high salt contents.
A Korean meal is centered around rice and soup, invariably served with a vast assortment of side dishes known as ''banchan'' (??). The humblest meal comes with three types while a royal banquet may well feature twelve. There will normally be a couple of vegetable dishes other than some form of ''kimchi'' that will always be present such as bean sprouts (??? ''kongnamul'') or spinach (??? ''shigeumchi'') and a meat dish such as fried fish.
The ubiquitous '''kimchi''' (?? ''gimchi''), made from fermented cabbage and chili, accompanies nearly every meal and may be a bit of an acquired taste for visitors as it can be quite spicy. In addition to the common cabbage type, kimchi can be made from white radish (??? ''ggakdugi''), cucumbers (?? ??? ''oi-sobagi''), chives (?? ?? ''buchu gimchi'') or pretty much any vegetable that can be pickled. Many different dishes are made using kimchi for flavoring, and kimchi is served as a side dish as well. It is not uncommon to find Korean tourists carrying a stash of tightly packed Kimchi when travelling.
Two more condiments found in almost every dish are ''doenjang'' (??), a fermented soybean paste akin to Japanese ''miso'', and ''gochujang'' (???), a hot (or not so hot) chilli paste.
While many of these dishes can be found throughout Korea, each city would also have its own regional specialities, such as ''dakgalbi'' (???) in the city of Chuncheon on the east coast. See the various city articles for more details.
A common perception amongst Koreans is that foreigners simply don't ''like'' spicy food, so you might have to spend some time convincing people otherwise if you really want to eat something hot. Also, while Korean food undoubtedly has the neighboring bland-dieted Japanese and northern Chinese breathing fire, if you're accustomed to (say) Thai or Mexican food you may wonder what the fuss is about.
In many traditional households, children were taught that it was impolite to speak during meals. Don't be surprised if there's complete silence while eating. People, particularly men, will use mealtimes to quickly eat up and move on to other things. This can be attributed to the short mealtimes during military service that most Korean men must perform.
Some etiquette pointers:
Aside from the cultural taboo, there are some issues regarding how the dogs are raised, butchered, and processed. These days, dogs are generally ''not'' beaten to death to improve the taste, but calling the conditions in which dogs are raised and butchered humane would also be an exaggeration. Even in Korea people get quite opinionated on this matter, so take anything you hear with a grain of salt.
In any case, you're unlikely to end up chewing on Snoopy by accident, as dog is only served by speciality restaurants, and as they rarely advertise you will have to actively seek them out. If you do make the effort, a bowl can go for under W10,000 and you'll find that dog tastes broadly like beef or veal, if perhaps a tad gamier.}}
"Korean barbeque" is probably the most popular Korean dish for Westerners, split in Korea itself into ''bulgogi'' (???), which uses cuts of marinated meat, and ''galbi'' (??), which uses ribs, usually unmarinated. In both, a charcoal brazier is placed in the middle of the table and patrons cook their choice of meats, adding garlic to the brazier for spice. The cooked meat from both of these is placed on a lettuce or perilla leaf along with shredded green onion salad (??? ''pa-muchim''), raw (or cooked) garlic, shredded pickled radish (?? ''muchae'') and some chili-soya paste (?? ''ssamjang'') and then devoured. All are optional, so be creative.
The cost of a barbeque meal depends largely on the meat chosen. In most Korean restaurants that serve meat, it is sold in units (usually 100 grams). Pork is by far the most common meat ordered. It's much cheaper than beef and according to diners tastier. You'll rarely see filet mignon, instead common cuts of meat include ribs, unsalted pork bacon (??? ''samgyeopsal'') and chicken stir-fried with veggies and spicy sauce (??? ''dakgalbi''). Unmarinated meats tend to be higher quality, but in cheaper joints it's best to stick with the marinated stuff.
Another healthy and tasty option is ''gimbap'' (??), sometimes dubbed "Korean sushi". Gimbap contains rice, sesame seed, a Korean variety of spinach, pickled radish, and an optional meat, such as minced beef or tuna, all neatly wrapped in dried seaweed, topped with sesame oil and sliced. A single roll makes a good snack or meal depending on one's appetite, and they travel well. Basically what differentiates Korean ''gimbap'' and Japanese ''sushi'' is how they prepare rice: Korean style gimbap usually use salt and sesame oil to flavor the rice, while Japanese style uses sugar and vinegar.
More of a snack than a meal is ''tteokbokki'' (???), which resembles a pile of steaming intestines at first sight, but is actually rice dumplings in a sweet chili sauce that's much milder than it looks.
Common versions ''jjigae'' include ''doenjang jjigae'' (????), made with ''doenjang'' (Korean miso), vegetables and shellfish, and ''gimchi jjigae'' (????), made with — you guessed it — kimchi. ''Sundubu jjigae'' (?????) uses soft tofu as the main ingredient, usually with minced pork added, but there's also a seafood version called ''haemul sundubu jjigae''(?? ?????) where the meat is replaced by shrimp, squid and the like.
''Budae jjigae'' (????) is a interesting type of Korean fusion food from the city of Uijeongbu, where a US military base was located. Locals experimenting with American canned food like Spam, sausages, and pork and beans tried adding them into ''jjigae'', and while recipes vary, most of them involve large quantities of fiery kimchi. Most places will bring you a big pan of stew and put it on a gas stove in the middle of the table. Many like to put ''ramyeon'' noodle (?? ??) in the stew, which is optional.
Popular ''tang'' soups include ''seolleongtang'' (???), a milky white broth from ox bones and meat, ''gamjatang'' (???), a stew of potatoes with pork spine and chillies and ''doganitang'' (????), made from cow knees. One soup worth a special mention is ''samgyetang'' (???, pron. saam-gae-taang), which is a whole spring chicken stuffed with ginseng and rice. Thanks to the ginseng, it's often a little expensive, but the taste is quite mild. It's commonly eaten right before the hottest part of summer in warm broth in a sort of "eat the heat to beat the heat" tradition.
''Guk'' like the seaweed soup ''miyeokguk'' (???) and the dumpling soup ''manduguk'' (???), but a few like the scary-looking pork spine and ox blood soup ''haejangguk'' (???), a popular hangover remedy, are substantial enough to be a meal.
''Naengmyeon'' (??) are a Korean speciality, being thin, chewy buckwheat noodles served in ice cold beef broth, and hence a popular summer dish — although it's traditionally winter food! They're also a classic way to end a heavy, meaty barbeque meal. The key to the dish is the broth (?? ''yuksu'') and the recipes of well known restaurants are usually closely guarded secrets.
''Japchae'' (??) is made from yam noodles, which are fried along with some vegetables (commonly cabbage, carrots, onions) and sometimes beef or odeng (fishcake). ''Mandu'' (??) dumplings are also very popular and are served up in steamed or fried as an accompaniment to other foods, or boiled in soup to make a whole meal.
''Ramyeon'' (??) is Korea's variant of ''ramen'', often served with kimchi (what else?). Korean ''ramyeon'' is well known for its overall spiciness, at least when compared to Japanese ones. Try ''shin ramyeon'' (???) for example.
''Jajangmyeon'' (???) is a noodle with a black sauce that usually includes pork, onions, cucumber, and garlic.
Finally, ''u-dong'' (??) are thick wheat noodles, similar to the Japanese ''udon''.
''Hoe'' (?), pronounced roughly "hweh", is raw fish Korean-style (similar to sashimi), meaning it's served with spicy ''cho-gochujang'' (Korean hot pepper sauce with vinegar) sauce. ''Chobap'' (??) is raw fish with vinegared rice, similar to Japanese ''sushi''. If ordering fish as ''hoe''/''chobap'', the bony parts not served raw are often made into a tasty but spicy soup called ''meuntang'' (???).
Another cooked specialty is ''haemultang'' (???), a spicy red hotpot stew filled crab, shrimp, fish, squid, vegetables and noodles.
If barbequed meat is not to your taste, then try Korean-style beef tartar, known as ''yukhoe'' (??). Raw beef is finely shredded and then some sesame oil, sesame, pine nuts and egg yolk are added, plus soy and sometimes ''gochujang'' to taste. It's also occasionally prepared with raw tuna or even chicken instead.
''Sundae'' (??, pron. "soon-deh") are Korean sausages made from a wide variety of ingredients, often including barley, potato noodles and pig blood.
A squirmy delicacy is '''raw octopus''' (??? ''sannakji'') — it's sliced to order, but keeps wiggling for another half hour as you try to remove its suction cups from your plate with your chopsticks. '''Sea squirts''' (''meongge'') are at least usually killed before eating, but you might be hard-pressed to tell the difference as the taste been memorably described as "rubber dipped in ammonia".
Most stews will not use beef stock, but fish stock, especially ''myeol-chi'' (??, anchovy). This will be your bane, and outside of reputable vegetarian restaurants, you should ask if you are ordering any stews/hotpots or casseroles.
Spicy (red) kimchi will almost certainly have seafood, such as salted tiny shrimp, as an ingredient. Since it disappears into the brine, you will not be able to visually identify it. Another type of kimchi, called ''mulgimchi'' (???, "water kimchi") is vegan, as it is simply salted in a clear, white broth with many different vegetables.
On the bright side, vegans and vegetarians are perfectly safe at Korean monastery cuisine restaurants, which uses no dairy, egg, or animal products, except perhaps honey. There has been a recent vogue for this type of cuisine, but it can be rather expensive.
There is an increasing number of vegetarian restaurants in Korea - most are in the larger or medium-sized places. Some of these are run by Seventh-Day Adventists or Hindus.
Booking clubs are the Korean version of night clubs. What makes them interesting is the "booking" part of the name. It's basically a way to meet new people of the opposite sex by introduction of the waiters (who usually bring women to visit tables of men, but increasingly vice-versa). Booking clubs are slightly more expensive than normal bars and hofs, but can be extremely fun. These can be different from American-style clubs, in that in addition to a cover charge, you are pretty much expected to order booze and side dishes (which can be quite pricey in W200,000-W500,000 range and up). But other than that, the dancing and atmosphere is about the same.
One of the customary things to do at a booking club is to "dress-up" your table or booth by purchasing expensive liquors and fruit plates, which signals your 'status' to the other patrons of the club (especially your gender of interest). Scotch whisky is especially is marked up a great deal in Korea, so don't be surprised to pay very high prices for that innocuous bottle of Johnnie Walker. On the other hand, it is a better value overall to buy a bottle of liquor or a "liquor set" than to purchase drinks individually.
On the other end of the spectrum, many locals go out to drink and eat with their friends at the many Korean grillhouses found throughout the city. It is not uncommon for people to consume several bottles of ''soju'' (see below) each, and mixing beer and hard liquor is encouraged. Group bonding over liquor and food is a cultural feature across South Korea.
For those who love singing as well as drinking, karaoke is popular and therefore widely available in South Korea, where it's called ''noraebang'' (???). In addition to Korean songs, larger establishments may include some Chinese, Japanese and English songs.
Younger people often have a difficult time refusing a drink from an older person, so be aware when asking someone younger than you if they want to drink more as they will often feel unable to say no to you. Of course, this works both ways. Often times, if an older person feels you are not keeping up with the party, he may offer you his glass, which he will then fill and expect you to drink. It is considered polite to promptly return the empty glass and refill it.
Traditionally, soju was made by distilling rice wine and aging it, which created a smooth spirit of about 40%. This type of traditional soju can still be found, for example ''Andong Soju'' (?? ??) — named after the town of Andong — and ''munbaeju'' (???). These can be expensive, but prices (and quality) vary considerably.
History tells that there were numerous brewers throughout the country in the past until late Chosun dynasty and before Japanese colonization. However, by the Japanese colonization and the oppressive and economy-obsessed government in the 60-70s, using '''rice''' for making wine or spirits was strictly prohibited. This eliminated most of the traditional brewers in the country and Korea was left with a few large distilleries (Jinro ??, Gyeongwol ??, Bohae ??, Bobae ??, Sunyang ??, etc), that basically made 'chemical soju'. Brewery distribution and markets were regionalized, and until the 1990s it was difficult to find a Jinro soju anywhere else than Seoul (you would have to pay premium even if you found one), Gyeongwol soju outside Gangwon, or Sunyang outside Chungcheong.
Also, there are soju cocktails such as "socol" (soju + coke), ''ppyong-gari'' (soju + pocari sweat - sports drink) and such, all aimed at getting you drunk quicker and cheaper.
Traditional unfiltered rice wines in Korea are known as '''''takju''''' (??), literally "cloudy alcoholic beverage". In the most basic and traditional form, these are made by fermenting rice with ''nuruk'' (??), a mix of fungi and yeast that breaks down starch in rice into sugar, for a short while (3-5 days usually). Then this is strained, usually diluted to 4-6% and imbibed. However, as with the case of traditional soju, unless explicitly stated on the bottle most ''takju'' are made from wheat flour and other cheaper grains. '''''Makgeolli''''' (???) is the simplest ''takju'', fermented once and then strained, while in '''''dongdongju''''' (???) more rice is added once or more during the fermentation to boost the alcohol content and the flavor. Typically you can find a couple of rice grains floating in ''dongdongju'' as a result.
'''''Yakju''''' (??) or '''''cheongju''''' (??) is filtered rice wine, similar to the Japanese rice wine ''sake''. The fermentation of rice is sustained for about 2 weeks or longer, strained, and then is kept still to have the suspended particles precipitate. The end result is the clear wine on top, with about 12-15% alcohol. Various recipes exist, which involves a variety of ingredients and when and how to add them accordingly. Popular brands include ''Baekseju'' (???) and '''Dugyeonju'' (???).
Those with an interest in the wine production process and its history will want to visit the Traditional Korean Wine Museum in Jeonju.
Coffee (?? ''keopi'') is also widely available, especially from streetside vending machines that will pour you a cupful for as little as W300, usually sweet and milky. Latte snobs will also be glad to know that Starbucks and assorted copies are spreading like wildfire. Starbucks is particularly widespread in Seoul and the drinks served taste exactly as they do in Starbucks locations in the United States, so make sure you hunt around for a decent cup.
Some higher-end hotels offer a choice of both Western-style and Korean-style rooms. The main feature of Korean rooms is an elaborate floor-heating system known as ''ondol'' (??), where hot steam (or, these days, water or electricity) heats stone slabs under a layer of clay and oiled paper. There are no beds; instead, mattresses are laid directly on the floor. Other furniture is typically limited to some low tables (you're also expected to sit on the floor) and maybe a TV.
The easiest way to find a motel is to just look for the symbol "?" and gaudy architecture, particularly near stations or highway exits. They're harder to find online, as they rarely if ever show up in English-language booking sites, but Hotel365 [http://www.hotel365.co.kr] (Korean only) has comprehensive listings for the entire country.
In some motels picking your room is very easy, as there will be room numbers, lit pictures and prices on the wall. The lower price is for a "rest" (?? ''hyusik'') of two to four hours, while the higher price is the overnight rate. Press the button for the one you like, which will go dark, and proceed to check-in. You'll usually be expected to pay in advance, often to just a pair of hands behind a frosted glass window. English is rarely spoken, but the only word you need to know is ''sukbak'' (??, "staying"). You may or may not receive a key, but even if you don't, the staff can usually let you in and out on request — just don't lose your receipt!
Native speakers of English who have four-year university degrees may find it easy to obtain employment in one of Korea's many private academies (''hagwon''). These schools have proliferated in response to perceived failings of the public education system, although there are also hagwons aimed at adult instruction. Often, people interested in these teaching positions find them via professional recruiters. There are pros and cons to teaching ESL in the hagwon system. On the plus side, the money can be quite good. As of late 2005, the average monthly salary is approximately 2 million KRW, and housing is usually provided. It's possible to live comfortably on half of one's salary, and to save the rest. However, it is important to evaluate each prospective employer before accepting an offer; tales of unscrupulous academy owners and incompetent directors abound. Dave's [http://www.eslcafe.com/ ESL Cafe],[http://www.worknplay.co.kr/ WorknPlay], and [http://www.esljobsworld.com/ ESL Jobs World] have general Korean job ads. Korea-specific sites include a blog called The Daily Kimchi [http://thedailykimchi.blogspot.com], a job ads site called HI Teacher [http://hiteacher.com/] and the Hagwon Blacklist [http://www.geocities.com/hagwonblacklist/]. A web search will turn up many more.
University employment is also possible. Those who have a graduate-level degree, preferably in TESOL (Teaching English as a Second or Other Language) may find professional opportunities at the postsecondary level preferable to teaching in private academies.
Caution: Korean employers tend to be very discriminatory towards people of color, especially Blacks and Indians. Korean job applications usually require you to attach a photo of yourself; if you are a person of color, your application will almost always be denied. Discrimination based on race, unfortunately, is still legal in Korea. Please be advised when looking for jobs.
See also Teaching English.
Korean police have been known to ignore crimes commited by Koreans against foreigners, while vigorously investigating any crimes committed against locals, and any crime you become a victim of is unlikely to be investigated unless your country starts a diplomatic row with the government. The press is also known to sensationalise crimes commited by foreigners, but not report at all on crimes committed against foreigners, leading to stereotypes that foreigners only enter their country to disrupt their social order. As such, visitors should always be prudent in major cities, especially in areas frequented by foreigners, and try to avoid any signs of trouble. Single women should opt for high security apartments as there have been reported cases of women being raped in their apartment by someone who broke in through the window.
Pedestrian crosswalks stay green for a very short period of time. When the walk signal is yellow and you are still at the curb '''do not cross'''. Instead, you should wait and be ready for the light to turn green. The moment it turns green, wait for about 3 to 5 seconds and see if other pedestrians start to cross, and if all the traffic has indeed stopped, then walk briskly to cross safely. It is safer to take underground passageways at busy intersections.
Traditionally, Koreans bow to each other to show their respect when they meet. Today, they may also shake hands at the same time. However, with people you are friendlier with a quick nod of the head and a simple "'''anyeong haseyo'''" meaning "hello" should suffice.
When picking something up or taking something from somebody older always use two hands. If you have to reach to get it and this is not possible, you can simply support your right arm with your left hand. Likewise, when shaking hands with somebody older support your right arm with your left hand.
It is also customary that you must take off your shoes in the house and also in many traditional restaurants.
As with anywhere, politics is a poor topic of conversation. In particular, avoid bringing up the Japanese occupation, the Korean war of the early 1950s and US foreign policy, as these delicate topics are certain to get you on someone's bad side and can lead to intense debates. Also, Koreans are particularly proud of their cuisine, and do not welcome criticism of it — although they do understand that foreigners may find some dishes too spicy.
Many Koreans still have negative feelings towards the Japanese due to the atrocities committed and "cultural assimilation" policy during the Japanese occupation. However, these have subsided somewhat in recent times as the Korean Wave or ''hallyu'' of Korean soap operas and pop music has drawn many Japanese tourists to Korea, with Japanese tourists now being the biggest spenders in Korea. Even though there is resentment towards the Japanese government, Japanese people visiting Korea are unlikely to run into any major problems. Nevertheless, some Koreans, particularly those born before the early 1930s, will still feel very offended if you associate them, the country or Korean culture with the Japanese in even the slightest way. Some Koreans also harbor some degree of resentment towards China, their other former colonial master and the North's main supporter.
The country has three service providers: SK Telecom, KTF and LG Telecom. They offer prepaid mobile phone services (''pre-paid service'', ''PPS'') in South Korea. Incoming calls are free. Phones and prepaid services can be acquired at any retail location found on any street. Second-hand phones are also available at selected stores in Seoul.
South Korea uses the CDMA standard and does not have a GSM network, so most 2G mobile phones from elsewhere will not work. Even quad-band GSM phones are useless. However, if you have a 3G phone with a 3G SIM card, you can probably roam onto the UMTS/WCDMA networks of SK Telecom or KTF; check with your home operator before you leave to be sure.
All the carriers offer mobile phone rental services, and some handsets also support GSM SIM roaming. They have outlets at the airports in Seoul and Busan. You can find service centres for SK Telecom and KTF at Jeju airport as well. Charges start from W2000/day if you reserve in advance via the [http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/RE/RE_EN_1_2_4_1.jsp visitkorea website] for a discount and guaranteed availability.
The 1330 Korea Travel Phone service is a very useful service provided by the Korea Tourism organization. It is a 24 hour service and offered in four different languages (Korean, English, Japanese, Chinese). The operator will answer questions on bus schedules, accommodation, museum hours, etc.
Korea has several English language media sources for daily news and other information.
Daily Newspapers
TV
Radio
AFN channel 1530 AM and 102.7 FM