'''Princes_f Islands''' (Turkish: ''Prens Adalar?'', also ''?stanbul Adalar?'', ''K?z?l Adalar'' or ''Adalar''; _gIslands of Istanbul_h, _gRed Islands_h, and _gIslands_h respectively) are a group of nine islands off the Asian coast of Istanbul, Turkey. Their name is variously ?and incorrectly- spelled also as _gPrince_fs Islands_h or _gPrincess_f Islands_h across the world-wide web.
Understand
Princes_f Islands take their name from the fact that during Byzantine and early Ottoman period, members of dynasties who fell out of favor were sent to exile there. Until late 19th century, when regular steamer transportation showed up in the seas around Istanbul, these islands were considered remote and far-away places. Apart from the exiled princes, only a handful of monks found these islands inhabitable then, a fact which gives the islands their former name in Turkish: ''Ke?i? Adalar?'' (_gIslands of the Monks_h).
Princes_f Islands consist of four major and five minor islands. Major ones are as follows (from west to east, also from smallest to biggest): '''K?nal?ada''', '''Burgaz''', '''Heybeliada''', and '''Buyukada'''. Apart from these, only one more island of the archipelago is inhabited, that is '''Sedef''' which lies east of Buyukada. The other, unhabited ones are: '''Tav?an''' south of Buyukada, '''Ka??k''' (between Burgaz and Heybeliada), '''Yass?ada''' and '''Sivriada''' (both lying further away in the sea, southwest of K?nal?ada). This article will focus on the four major ones, as public transport to uninhabited islands is virtually non-existant, and much of Sedef is private property with limited access.
These islands prove to be a good day-trip especially when you are bored of the crowd, noise, and traffic of Istanbul. Quite a shock is what many travellers experience upon their return to the city, when full-blast car horns are still the way how they were when left behind early in the morning.
One of the best times to be on the islands is March: during March, the air is not that cold, the islands are not very crowded and the mimosa trees, which are some sort of symbol of the islands, are in full bloom of their yellow flowers. At weekends during summer (June-Sept), all of the islands are really crowded, and so are the ships. Avoid if you can.
If you don_ft have time to visit all of the islands, pick '''Buyukada''': it_fs undoubtedly the _gqueen_h of the islands.
Get in
The only way to get to islands is by sea: whether '''Istanbul liners''' or '''fast ferries'''. From European Side of Istanbul, you can take a boat from Eminonu (from _eAdalar_f pier) or Kabata?, while from Asian Side, the piers with a connection to the islands are located in Kad?koy and Bostanc?. The most frequent departures are from Bostanc? (especially in winter), which also has private mid-sized boat connection to the islands in addition to liners and fast ferries. See Asian Side article for an extensive detail of how to get to Bostanc? from more central parts of the city.
Almost all ferries call at all four major islands in a row, but sometimes they first call at Buyukada, and other times at K?nal?ada. Island names are not announced by voice inside the ships, so be sure to check the large signs on the quays to make sure that the island you are about to step on is the one that you ''want'' to step on.
Get around
On the islands
As the motorized vehicles (save for service vehicles like school buses or ambulances) are all banned on the islands, the most popular way of getting around is '''horse-drawn carriages''' (''fayton''), which can be likened to taxis, or the ''dolmu?'', of the mainland. There is a fixed price for every location (in Buyukada, they are announced on the sign in the main ''fayton'' stop near the quay). The greatest price is for a total loop (known as ''Buyuk Tur'') around the island (length: about 15 km, price: about YTL 45 for Buyukada in April, 2007). Price is per ''fayton'', i.e. not dependent on how much people the ''fayton'' carries (but they accept no more than 4, and some horses are not very comfortable with more than 3 pessengers). Please note that there are no ''faytons'' in K?nal?ada, as that island is not big enough to justify taking one.
Also renting a '''bike''' is another alternative. The fare was about YTL 3.00 per hour in winter, 2005. Most renters require you to leave an official identification to be returned after the payment is made. A student ID may suffice. Some renters distribute a road map of the island free of charge, don_ft forget to ask for it.
Between the islands
All boats operating between the islands and the mainland call at all of the major islands, so you can also take them for island-hopping.
See
'''Hagios Giorgios Church''' (Saint George/''Aya Yorgi'') is located on one of two summits of Buyukada. After reaching the central point of the island (known as ''Birlik Meydan?'' Square), you should climb a steep cobblestoned path on foot to get there (it_fs too steep for a ''fayton'', as well as a bike, to climb). It takes about 35-40 minutes. Although the church building itself is unexceptional with nothing really fascinating, the backyard of the church offers some very beautiful sights of the other islands and the sea. On April 23rd every year, which is considered as St George_fs holy day, a crowd of seemingly tens of thousands attend the church to make wishes. '''Wishmaking''' rituals that day range from usual burning a candle to climbing the cobbled path on bare feet to untying wool balls all along the path. The final part of the path that day is as crowded as a rock concert (except very early in the morning, like 6AM, it_fs reported), because police officers let people in in groups of 10-15 at once, to avoid an overcrowding inside the church. If you decide to burn a candle that day keep in mind that nearer the church you are, cheaper the candles being sold around (for example, in 2007 it was YTL 2.00 near the quay, while the going price very near the church was YTL 0.50 per candle). But better of all would be to buy the candle inside the church for a donation (it_fs up to you how much to pay) as none of the profit of the candles sold on the streets benefits the church. And a sidenote: Most of the people attending the church and waiting for a blessing from the priest upon exit that day are non-Christian Turks, but there is nothing surprising about that: This is Turkey, where east meets west (and vice versa) and cultures truly mix.
On the other summit of Buyukada lies the abandoned '''Greek Orphanage''' (''Rum Yetimhanesi''). Originally built as a hotel in late 19th century, this completely-wooden, 4-story building is the second largest wooden construction in whole world (the largest in Europe). It_fs dangerous to enter the building itself (because it_fs slowly decaying), and also forbidden ? but you may try to coax the guard for a permission at the garden gate.
Both the eastern and western side of Buyukada is full of wooden Victorian-style '''mansions''' dating back to late 19th/early 20th century, similars of which have been bulldozed in the rest of Istanbul (with the exception of neighborhoods on Bosphorus banks) to make way for concrete, multy-story apartment buildings. The ones on the western side (right side when looking out of quay) seem more splendid. Just don_ft be surprised and don_ft start looking for them as soon as you get off the ship: Around the quay is more like a town centre. They are located about 15 min walk away from the quay.
Do
'''Great/Total Circuit''' (''Buyuk Tur'', about 15 km in Buyukada): Either by ''fayton'' or bike. It_fs not as hard as it may sound, except a few slopes.
Enjoy '''swimming''' (water is not that clean anymore though).
Have a '''picnic''' in a scenic spot.
Buy
Eat
Alibaba Restaurant. ulistan Cad. no: 18, Buyukada. n the town centre, on the left side when walking out of the ferry quay. 90 216 382 37 33. 90 216 382 36 00. 0AM-1AM. isa, Mastercard and AmEx accepted. Seafood restaurant in Buyukada. Reservation is advised on Saturdays.
Konak Lokantas?. ecep Kocak Cad. no: 87, Buyukada. 90 216 382 54 79. isa and Mastercard accepted. Kebab and traditional Turkish cuisine.
Ada Ev Yemekleri. ecep Kocak Cad. alk toward the clock tower as you exit the ferry and take a left at the clock. 0-10. ery reasonable prices. Small quaint resturant run by a family. Features traditional Turkish and Eastern Med cuisine at great prices. Very tasty and an authentic slice of the Islands and Turkish cuisine.
Drink
Sleep
Buyukada and Heybeliada both have a limited range of hotels, some of which serve in a boutique style, preferred by many tourists but not spectacularly clean.
Mimoza Pansiyon. uyukada. 90 216 382 74 35. imozapansiyon@hotmail.com. ttp://www.mimozapansiyon.com/. Guesthouse offering rooms with central heating, air conditioner, hot water, and wireless internet.
Splendid Palace Hotel. 3 Nisan Cad. no: 53, Buyukada. 90 216 382-6775. nfo@splendidhotel.net. ttp://www.splendidhotel.net. Located in an Art-Nouveau building which dates back to 1908.
Stay safe
If you are doing the great circuit of Buyukada, beware of '''dogs''' near the cemetery, which suddenly start barking at and chasing you when you are about to re-enter the built-up area in the east of the island if you are circumambulating the island counter-clockwise (or after you have just entered the wooded section if you are doing clockwise). The best reaction is to speed up as much as your legs and the bicycle can endure, they give up after a certain length of chase. This warning is especially true for winter.
Also, whether you are a pedestrian or a cyclist, always give way to ''faytons'' to avoid dangerous collisions. Don_ft be fooled by the absence of motorized vehicles: Always '''check the road''' first when crossing. The horses can and do have real high speeds.
Contact
The telephone code for islands is (+90) '''216''', which is same with the Asian Side but different from European Side.
Get out
If you are not going to stay overnight in the islands, don_ft forget to take a note of departure times of ships back to the city before leaving the quay building. Ships are less frequent after the night falls, especially in winter. Generally the most frequent line (and the one with the latest departure) is Islands-Bostanc? one. From Bostanc?, you can take ''dolmu?'' or public bus (#112) to Taksim in European Side. (once in Bostanc? quay, cross the street, walk straight ahead, cross the pedestrian passage under the railway, climb up the second stairs on the left. You_fll come across a little square, on the opposite edge of it is where ''dolmu?''es and buses to Taksim depart)