Bagan became a central powerbase of the mid 9th century under King Anawratha, who unified Burma under Theravada Buddhism. It is estimated that as many as 13,000 temples and stupas once stood on this 42-sq km plain in central Myanmar, and Marco Polo once described Bagan as a "gilded city alive with tinkling bells and the swishing sounds of monks' robes". Approximately 2,200 remain today, in various states of disrepair. Some are large and well maintained, such as the Ananda Pahto, others are small tumbledown relics in the middle of overgrown grass. All, however, are considered active sacred sites, so when visiting roaming among the stupas, feel free to show off all your best behavior.
Bagan's golden age ended in 1287 when the Kingdom and its capital city was invaded and sacked by the Mongols. Its population was reduced to a village that remained amongst the ruins of the once larger city. In 1998, this village and its inhabitants were forcibly relocated a few kilometers to the south of Bagan, forming "New Bagan" where you will find accommodation in its handful of cheap, quaint, clean hotels and religious centers.
Despite the majesty and importance of Bagan, Unesco has failed to include it on its world heritage site, because it says some temples were rebuilt in an ''un-historic'' way. Nonetheless, the site is arguably as impressive as the Pyramids of Egypt: a dry, vast open landscape dominated entirely by votive architecture.
When entering Bagan you pass through a ticket booth where you present your passport and purchase a US$10 ticket valid for your entire stay (March 2008). These passes are also needed for accommodation as hotels and hostels take down the ticket number when you check in.
Staff at the ticket booths round out their salaries by selling pirate copies of George Orwell's "Burmese Days" for around US$5.
'''SAFETY RECORDS'''
Founded in 2004, Air Bagan had its only accident when an ATR had to abort take-off on 19/02/08: 57 passengers with zero fatalities.
Founded in 1994, Air Mandalay has had no accidents so far.
Founded in 1943, Myanmar Air has had 132 accidents; 98 of the accidents are attributable to the US Army Air Force, the Royal Air Force and wartime twin-engine cargo flights into China. Since 1999, Air Myanmar has had only two accidents, one of which is the Air Bagan F-28 cited above because Air Bagan is a subsidiary of Myanmar Air. See http://aviation-safety.net/database/dblist.php?Country=XY for the full list. The airline had a streak of accidents 11 years ago, but has since cleaned up its act.
All data is from the Flight Safety Foundation as at Dec 1 2008.
There is a direct train service running from Mandalay to Bagan. Third-class tickets are available directly at the railway station and cost US$4 USD (March 2008). They may refuse kyat.
Third class is rough, however. Most train routes in Myanmar are fairly nice, however when going on the Mandalay/Bagan route expect the train to be incredibly crowded. You will also have limited room to store your stuff, as well as cramped uncomfortable sitting conditions.
Comfortable bus links to Mandalay are also available for US$8 one way.
Bagan offers lacquerware, cloth paintings, T-shirts and other handicrafts. As elsewhere in Asia, it is "friendly" to grant a client 10% off. If you probe further, remember to always keep the bargaining friendly and to know when to stop eroding the seller's margin.
There are many places to eat in Old Bagan serving the traditional Burmese dishes, especially good old noodle soup. Some of the buffets are excellent; for about USD 1.50 you can eat to your heart's content from literally dozens of different traditional dishes, brought straight to your table.
One of the best restaurants in Bagan is Mahar Bagan (Khayee Road, Khan Laung Quarter, New Bagan). Mahar Bagan has a cheerful and friendly owner who speaks great English and seems happy to indulge customers in stories about the area. The menu consists primarily of Chinese-style dishes. The restaurant does serve up an excellent array of traditional Burmese food, but you have to drop by 4-5 hours in advance to let them know your order, as most Burmese dishes take a long time to prepare.
Thasin Hotel. Bungalows and rooms overlooking a (rebuilt) pagoda. There is also a salon, expensive internet access, a limited library, billiards, a scenic pool, and a nice breakfast room. Mid-range prices in the summer, may be more expensive during the year.