'''Asuncion''' is the capital of Paraguay.

Asuncion, as all of Paraguay, is a very contrasting place. Some rank Asuncion as the world's cheapest capital. Few people would be able to explain why it is so charming despite having few traditional tourist attractions like beaches, mountains, or skyscrapers. As soon as you arrive, you will experience the sort of magic that exists in this place.

Few people speak English here and without at least some basic Spanish it might be hard to get by. From Saturday afternoon and all Sunday most businesses are closed and the city centre can become quite deserted.

Get in

Citizens of the U.S. and Canada must have a visa before travelling to Paraguay. Most citizens of the E.U. do not. [http://www.mre.gov.py/es/inicio_es.asp]

The bus terminal has an information office in its centre and can also help with tourist information. The official '''tourist information''' is on Palma 468 behind the glass door (no obvious sign outside).

By plane

From outside of South America, there are no nonstop flights to Asuncion (Silvio Pettirossi International Airport). The best options are Sao Paulo or Buenos Aires (from where you could alternatively also take a direct bus to Asuncion, 20h and 17h respectively) and change to one of the local carriers, e.g. TAM, Varig, GOL Airlines, Aerolineas Argentinas.

By train

There are no trains, apart from an infrequent tourist train to Aregua. The building once used as the train station is a museum and cultural events venue at Plaza Uruguaya.

By car

Driving a car yourself is not recommended since many streets are in disrepair and apart from the main roads many are unpaved. The traffic in the city can be quite chaotic and dangerous for unused drivers. However, it gets much better once outside of the city. The car rental companies can also provide drivers.
  • <listing name="Hertz Car Rental" alt="" directions="at the airport" address="" phone="" email="" fax="" url="" hours="" price=""></listing>
  • <listing name="National Car Rentals" alt="" directions="Yegros 501" address="" phone="(+595) 21-492 157" email="" fax="" url="" hours="" price=""></listing>
  • <listing name="Avis Car Rentals" alt="" directions="at Plaza Uruguaya" address="corner Antequera and Pte. Franco" phone="" email="" fax="" url="" hours="" price=""></listing>
  • By bus

    The bus terminal is about about 5 km from the historic center. So you better take a taxi or a bus to the centre. The street Fernando de La Mora in front of the terminal leads to the city centre. Some bus companies have offices on Plaza Urugaya in the city centre.

    There are normally two type of services to the bigger cities: ''comun'' and ''rapido''. While the first are cheaper, they also stop in every small town or community along the way and hence take longer then the rapidos which run direct or with a few stops only. Rapidos are less frequent.

  • '''Buenos Aires''', ca. 17h, several daily, 45 US$ (Crucero del Norte, Nuestra Senora de la Asuncion/Chevallier)
  • '''Encarnacion''', ''commun'': ca. 7h, several daily, 50.000 Gs; also ''rapido'': 5h, 75.000 Gs
  • '''Ciudad del Este''', several daily
  • '''Concepcion''', ca. 6h, several daily, 60'000 Gs
  • '''Colonies in the Chaco''' (Loma Plata, Filadelfia, Neuland, Mariscal Estigarriba, ca. 8h, about 1 to 2 services per day each, 70'000 Gs (NASA)
  • By boat

    The port is at the riverside end of Montevideo just after Paraguayo Independiente.
  • "Cacique II" leaves Concepcion to Asuncion on Sundays between 6-7 am 22 hours, 55.000 Gs. Returns to Concepcion on Wednesday morning. Bring warm clothes and your own food. A cheap meal might be bought on board but don't count on it.
  • There are also occasionally cargo boats doing the trip to Concepcion and even further up the Rio Paraguay.
  • Get around

    The historic centre of Asuncion is small enough to be explored by foot. However, some of the attractions are a bit outside.

    By bus

    Buses are ubiquitous, cheap and an experience in itself (be careful while exiting since many only slow down, rather than stop completely, for the passengers to get off). They go more or less everywhere in the city - destinations are displayed on boards on the front window, if in doubt just shout your intended destination at the driver when he stops and he'll tell you yes or no. The are sometimes a few different versions of each bus number - 16, 16.1, 16.2 etc. which often have completely different routes from each other, so watch out not to accidently get on the wrong one. There aren't many official bus stops in Asuncion, you can just stick your arm out and flag down a bus pretty much anywhere. You need a knowledge of Spanish to ask your way along. As of February 2009, the fare is Gs. 2.100 (USD 0.41).

    '''From the bus terminal''' take bus number 8 from the main bus stop just outside the terminal on Fernando de la Mora. It will take you in about 20-30 min to Plaza Paraguaya (the first real square with trees and greens). Get off there or a few blocks later. There are also other buses going to the centre. '''To the bus terminal''' take any bus from Oliva telling "Terminal" on its front screen.

    By taxi

    Taxis are also available and reasonably inexpensive, a 30% surcharge is added on late at night (after around 10pm) and on sundays. Tipping isn't expected.

    See

    Asuncion may not have many conventional tourist attractions, but if you are willing to be your own tour guide, Asuncion can be an interesting place to visit.

    Every July there is a trade fair with exhibition booths, food, music and liquor. This is a good way to learn about what goes on in the country, the exhibitors range from agricultural suppliers to liquor manufacturers. Keep an eye out for the many free samples of food, soap, drinks, etc.

  • '''National Congress''' One of the more impressive new buildings in the city. It was built in 2002 with $20 million from the Taiwanese government. Paraguay is one of the few countries that recognizes Taiwan as opposed to mainland China. Most striking is its mirrored facade, which reflects the nearby slums along the bank of the river. You can ask for a tour in English - and maybe get one.
  • The '''National Cathedral''' Across the broad and picturesque plaza with fountains, but it is frequently closed, especially at midday siesta.
  • The '''Municipal Museum''' is modest, but has some tidbits about the old tram line from the 1880s and other civic history. Nearby is the '''Visual Arts Museum''' with temporary exhibits from national artists.
  • The '''Fine Arts museum''' is fairly unimpressive.
  • The '''Panteon del los Heroes''' houses the tomb of the unknown soldier along with other "heroes" from Paraguay's disaterous wars, as well as plaques for the heroes of the Chaco war. Changing of the guard occurs every other day.
  • '''Backyard birds''' in the city are interesting. There is the Great Kiskadee, Saffron Finch and Hornero. Kiskadee is like a yellow blue jay-- aggressive and large. Saffron finch is similar to a yellow house finch, Hornero is much like American Robin without the red breast. It builds a unique nest about the size and shape of a football completely out of mud and resembles a Paraguayan oven or ''horno''. Thus the name: "baker".
  • Do

    Learn

    Learning Guarani Language is a great oportunity to get into the paraguayan culture. [http://www.idipar.edu.py/ingles/principal.htm IDIPAR] institute has good choices for that.

    Work

    Teaching English is a possibility, but without a visa it can be difficult and wages are low. In a country such as Paraguay with widespread underemployment, obtaining paid work is almost impossible for foreigners. Volunteer work in poorer areas of the city is easy to come by.

    Buy

    The cost of buying goods and services is cheap. This is only partly due to the fact that Paraguay is a piracy and smuggling haven. Be aware that some goods may be cheaply made. Indigenous crafts are available such as tooled leather, carved wood, pottery and a particularly Paraguayan lace based on a spider's web called "Nanduti". Shopping malls, such as Shopping del Sol on Aviadores del Chaco and Shopping Mariscal Lopez on Avenida Mariscal Lopez, exist in the suburbs of Villa Mora and Carmelitas. Take buses 28 or 30 to reach them. Mall Excelsior on Chile, and the more basic Asuncion Supercentro on the western end of Oliva are both in the centre. These "Shoppings" are useful as places to eat on sunday evenings, when many more central places are closed. The huge Mercado 4, along Avenida Sivio Pettirossi, is a chaotic market where you can buy just about anything very cheaply, it is particularly good for counterfeit clothing and pirated CDs and DVDs (of varying quality).

    Typical souvenirs from Asuncion would include guampas/bombillas, t-shirts, traditional lace, or leather goods.

  • '''Palma''' is the main shopping street. Pretty much everything you can buy here, you can get cheaper in one of the parallel streets.
  • American Express '''Traveller Cheques''' can be changed at ''Banco de la Nacion Argentina'' (at Plaza de los Heroes). Above average exchange rate, 3 US$ comission. It will take a while though - time to experience the place which could be a sight in itself. ''BBVN'' supposedly does as well. Casa de Cambios don't. All banks close by 1:30 pm. Also can be changed at [http://www.maxicambios.com.py/index.html Maxicambios] which are located in all main shopping-malls.
  • Eat

    Don't eat raw food that might have been washed - and contaminated - with tap water, such as salads and unpeelable fruits.

    Paraguay has a tradition for beef which is normally good quality and cheap. Grilled meat (asado) is the thing to eat. Pasta is also popular as are the street stalls selling panchos (hot-dogs), hamburger and similar fast-food. Vegetables, salad and other types of meat are not that common but available. In restaurants you normally get manioc as a side dish for free (similar to bread in other countries).

    At lunch time there is no shortage of cheap restaurants to dine in or take away - you can't miss them. The places where you help yourself and pay by weight are usually very cheap and a decent option besides the slightly more expensive restaurants with their daily menu. At dinner time only very few eating places are still open and finding a good deal - especially if you are budget-conscious - is a lot harder.

    Budget

    Most shopping malls have decent food courts with a variety of restaurants, however, they are located away from the centre. Bigger supermarkets often have a cheap self-service restaurant inside.
  • Burger King. alma between 14 de Mayo and 15 de Agosto. If you fancy something you know. Also open in the evening.
  • Supermercado El Pais. ntequera and 25 de Mayo. n Plaza Uruguaya. pen until 9:30pm, Sunday only until noon.
  • Restaurant Internacional. ernando de la Mora. pposite the bus terminal. A good and not too expensive place. Sometimes with life music. Popular also with locals to hang out for a beer. Open in the evening.
  • La Vida Verde. alma 634. to 14. o more than 5 US$ per person. Good chinese-vegetarian food.Self-service. Very popular at noon.

    Mid-range

  • Confiteria/Snack Bar/Restaurant Bolsi. orner Estrella and Alberdi. o-Su, also open in the evening. It has been there for decades, serving some more and some less traditional food to a mixed crowd of people.
  • Hacienda Las Palomas. enador Long 1481. orner Senador Long and Guido Spano. 05-111. Really good Mexican food (not "chips & salsa Tex-Mex"). The margaritas are particularly good, but the food is even better.
  • Shangri-La. viadores del Chaco c/ San Martin. orner Aviadores del Chaco and San Martin. 61-618. Good Chinese food.

    Splurge

    For a traditional Paraguayan meal, visit "La Paraguayita." Don't miss a Brazillian steak house called a "churrasqueria."
  • Acuarela. cal. Lopez 4049. ear San Martin. 595 21 609 217.

    Drink

    General

    Drink only bottled or chlorinated water. The latter you get sometimes with your coffee.

    The most common drink in Paraguay is '''Mate''' made of ''Yerba Mate'' (Mate herbs) that is similar in style to tea but the preparation is distinct. To add sugar is not common in Paraguay. When it is summerly hot, it is more common to drink it with cold water and called '''Terere''' (pronounced ''tae-rae-rae'') - often drunk from a cow horn fasioned cup. Cold or hot, it is drunk through a communal silver-plated straw (the ''bombilla''). It is a social activity so the cup is passed around - with in between a refill for each person. If you are offered either you should accept at least one cup. Another variation of preparation is to boil the yerba on the stove with sugar then strain it before serving it with milk. It tastes a bit like smoked tea. In this form it is called '''Cocido''', which simply means "cooked".

    '''Gaseosa''' means fizzy drinks of any description. All the usual brands are available. Try the local ''Guarana''.

    '''Coffee''' is mostly of an Italian variety. There are several locations of Cafe Havanna, a Starbucks-like Argentine coffee chain. One is just off the corner of Avenida Mcal. Lopez and Avenida Rca. Argentina.

    Bars & Clubs

  • Brittania Pub. erro Cora. e to Su. Many foreigners

  • Older. erro Cora. Great bar opposite Brittania. Run by a friendly guy named Francisco. Excellent selection of retro classic rock. Friendly local crew and local prices. Food darts and outdoor seating area available.

  • Coyote. ucre 1655 and San Martin Avenue. ww.coyote.com.py.

  • Alejandria. alma 680. n the downtown, close to Vida Verde and Unicentro. r and Sa from around midnight. 5.000 Gs. LGBT dance venue

  • Glam. v. San Martin 1155 and Agustin Barrios. ext to Salemma Carmelitas Supermarket. ww.glam.com.py. hu Fri Sat from midnight. One of the finest dance clubs in Asuncion

  • Kandi. v. Aviadores del Chaco. wo or three blocks from Sheraton Hotel and Shopping del Sol.

  • Short Bus. ariscal Estigarribia 991. LGBT club

    Sleep

    While a great many hotels exist in Asuncion and to find a bed should never be too difficult, decent places in the budget range are rare. The highest concentration of hotels from budget to splurge can be found in the city centre between the streets Cristobal Colon and Estados Unidos. There is also quite a number of cheap places opposite the bus terminal (in particular on Lapacho a side street of La Mora), though you get normally better value in the city centre. During off-season you may be quoted discounted prices before even asking for it.

    Budget

    Try it also in the following streets next to Plaza Uruguay: Mexico, Paraguari and Antequera.
  • Hotel Miami. v Mexico 449. ight off Plaza Uruguaya. 44 950. ingle from 50.000 Gs (fan, no TV). Avoid noisy rooms facing square.
  • La Espanola. uis A. de Herrera 142. ear Yegros. ouble 80.000 Gs (Aircon, Cable TV, breakfast). A friendly and clean option in the centre, with free WiFi. Some of the beds are on the hard side.
  • Hotel Sagaro. residente Franco 657. etween 15 de Agosto and O'Leary. +595 21 440 377. ttp://www.hotelsagaro.com.py/index.php?option=com_frontpage&Itemid=1. ouble 70.000 Gs (Aircon, Cable TV, breakfast at additional cost). A place that has seen its best day. However, it's very central though the disco on the weekend can be a nuisance (get a room on the left).

    Mid-range

  • Hotel Palmas del Sol. venida Espana 202. acuary, near Plaza Uruguaya. ttp://www.hotelpalmasdelsol.com/. ingle/double 137.000/ 192.000 Gs (incl. IVA and breakfast). Popular with groups. Has pool and a feel more appropriate to a seaside hotel. Quiet. Free Internet and WiFi.
  • Hotel Chaco. aballero 285. orner Mcal. Estigarribia, near Plaza Uruguay. 595 21 492 066. ttp://www.hotelchaco.com.py. ouble from 75 US$. A decent hotel in the centre of the city.
  • Hotel Westfalenhaus. ttp://www.westfalenhaus.com/. ouble from 75 US$. Cheaper per week.
  • Apar-T-hotel Porta Westfalica. r. Camacho Dure 555 . 98-906. w@suncion.de. ttp://www.paraguay-aparthotels.com/. ouble from 55 US$. weekly and monthly rates.
  • Hotel Los Alpes - Villa Morra. el Maestro 1686. el Maestro off of Avenida San Martin. 06-286. osalpesvillamorra@hotmail.com. ouble from 45 US$. Great hotel, well-located, and very comfortable.
  • Hotel Los Alpes - Santa Teresa. vda. Santa Teresa 2855. n Santa Teresa, a few blocks away from Shopping del Sol. 07-348. ouble from 45 US$. Owned by the same people who own the Los Alpes in Villa Morra. The Santa Teresa is larger and has better swimming pools. Wi-Fi, breakfast included. This location is better except for the fact that it's harder to catch a bus from here since they don't pass down Santa Teresa.

    Splurge

  • Sheraton Asuncion. viadores Del Chaco 2066. 17-7000. Reservas.Asuncion@Sheraton.com. 17-7001. ttp://www.starwoodhotels.com/sheraton/property/overview/index.html?propertyID=1450&EM=VTY_SI_asuncion_1450_overview. :00pm. 2:00pm. 100+.
  • Crowne Plaza Asuncion. erro Cora 939. n downtown, on Cerro Cora between Estados Unidos and Tacuary. 21-452-682. ttp://www.crowneasuncion.com.py/. 100+. eservas@crowneasuncion.com.py. 21-452-683. Nice hotel in downtown. Opened in 2005 so it is in very good condition. Good location if you need to be in downtown, but far from offices and attractions in the nicer parts of town. Has a gym, open-air pool, restaurant, and free wifi throughout.
  • Hotel Excelsior. hile 980. anduvira Street. 595 21 495 632. ttp://www.excelsior.com.py. rom 100 US$.
  • Asuncion Internacional Hotel. ttp://www.hotelinternacional.com.py.
  • Apar-T-otel Porta Westfalica " alt="" address="Dr. Camacho Dure 555 " directions="The Hotel are situated between the Silvio Pettirossi International Airport (7 kms) and the centre of Asuncion (7 kms) and the modern shopping centres (3 kms) with Banks, Money Exchange Bureaus, automatic cash machines, supermarkets, cinemas, fast food restaurants, shops, etc. 800 mts. from the hotel there is a large supermarket." phone="021-298-906" url="http://www.paraguay-aparthotels.com" checkin="" checkout="" price="$55+" lat="" long="" email="Pw@suncion.de" fax="021-293-855">. Has a gym, open-air pool, sauna, and free wifi throughout.</sleep>

    Contact

    Internet places are everywhere and usually cost between 3.000 and 5.000 guaranis per hour. Connection speeds are usually good.

    If you're traveling with an iPhone (or laptop) and want to use Wi-Fi, it's very easy now to find open signals. Many restaurants have free Wi-Fi.

  • <listing name="CyberKing" alt="" address="" directions="corner Oliva and 14 de Mayo" phone="" url="" hours="Open 24h - more or less" price="5.000 Gs/h with Skype" lat="" long="" email="" fax="">A good place for Internet and one of the only ones open late as well.</listing>
  • Stay safe

    Federal police have a highly visible presence. Some already decked out in riot gear as if an uprising were forthcoming at any moment. Because the dictator did not tolerate crime in any form-- a violator simply disappeared, possibly in the river-- crime is not prevalent. Although the perception of crime now that the dictator is no longer in power runs high. Houses are protected by twenty foot high walls topped by barbed wire and electric fence or razor wire. Many, who can afford it, have a full time 24 hour guard on their grounds. Prostitution is rampant and obvious after dark on the main avenues. Tranvestite prostitutes are common around many areas, and are best avoided as they are known to cause trouble occasionally. Despite the locals' rather high perception of crime, Asuncion is one of the safer capitals in South America and violent crime is very uncommon. Due to the low numbers of tourist in Paraguay in general, visitors are not likely to be specifically targeted by criminals. Key things to watch out for are petty thieves (watch your pockets on crowded buses) and taxi drivers trying to rip you off (make sure they use the meter). Wandering around the city centre on sundays and public holidays is probably best avoided, as there will be virtually nobody on the streets, though this is still far from being a dangerous thing to do.

    Liquor is easily available but not widely abused, there are a fair few street drunks in some parts of the city, but they are invariably harmless. There are casinos for gambling but only with electronic machines so again not abused. Pickpocketing is said to be prevalent in crowded downtown streets near expensive hotels. Women travellers should be aware that they will revieve a lot of unwanted attention from Paraguayan males -this is mostly intended as innocent banter in the form of shouts or wolf whistles etc, but can sometimes be accompanied by touching, especially in clubs. This sort of attention is best just ignored.

    Be extremely careful when crossing streets in Asuncion. Most drivers consider stop signs and traffic lights to be merely suggestions, even if police are nearby. Buses will stop for almost nothing, so be very careful.

    The United States CDC recommends that all visitors to Asuncion receive a Typhoid vaccination prior to travel. Dengue fever is frequently a risk one takes when traveling to Asuncion; unfortunately, no vaccine for this currently exists. To avoid insect-spread diseases, ensure that you use bug spray at all times of the day, without exception.

    Cope

    Asuncion is just south of the Tropic of Capricorn so the weather is tropical. That is, mostly hot, especially in South American summer (winter in the northern hemisphere). Temperatures in December through March can consistently climb over 38 C / 100 F. Humidity can be high and uncomfortable. However the weather is highly variable! When the sun shines you bake. When the rains come they come in buckets and the temperature drops precipitously.It can be very dry when the rains hold off for just a few days. Then the clouds build and it becomes cold.

    Flies, ants and especially mosquitoes (but no large, creepy bugs) are everywhere. There are no screens, windows and doors are simply flung open for ventilation. Air conditioners do exist but most people depend on less expensive fans. Heaters do not exist, though on the chilliest days they would be welcomed. The soil is bright red and as many streets are unpaved dust becomes a problem. There are trees (some in the middle of roads!) for shade, but palm trees are planted everywhere. Dogs and farm animals of every description are all over the roads. There is no humane society to care for wild dogs and some are pitifully mangy. It is not uncommon to see pigs wallowing in a mud puddle in the middle of a road, chickens are everywhere, horses, donkeys and cows run loose and can be found in anyone's property.

    It is brutally hot in Paraguay's summer. If you've ever wondered why Latin culture has a "siesta" where everything closes down at noon for a few hours, you'll soon know why if you spend time in Asuncion during the summer. You'll also understand why people eat dinner so late and stay out partying all night: it's too hot during the day to enjoy being outside.

    Get out

  • A visit to an '''Estancia''' makes a good day off or so from Asuncion (some are within easy reach of public transport). Horesriding, fishing, swimming, guided nature walks are among the activities offered. Those that participate in APATUR (get the booklet from the tourist information) have generally a high standard. Some can only be visited during the day others have accommodation (expect about 80 US$ per night incl. all food and activities). Bookings can be made through TACP (021-210 550) or by contacting the Estancias directly. Travel agencies also offer trips to Estancias and typically include private transport back and forth.
  • '''Circuito de Oro''' (Golden Circuit) is a day-trip to a couple of historical towns in the sourrounding of Asuncion
  • '''Aregua''' is a lakeside town about 20km from Asuncion and makes a good day trip. On Sundays, there is a steam train running including a theatre on the way. There are also buses going there costing the standard fare, e.g. from in front of the Bus Terminal.