Every day, a train makes it laborious way up from Mandalay, via steep hills and a breathtaking gorge, to Hsipaw (and onward to Lashio). One of the 'must do' railway journeys of the world, the railway line between Pyin u Lwin and Hsipaw is a masterpiece of British engineering, designed primarily to bring trade (and thus control) to the Northern Shan State, an important ally of the British after the conquest of Upper Burma. The journey takes fifteen hours (though the trains are usually late) and costs US$9 in First Class or US$4 in Second Class. Many travelers do the Pyin oo Lwin (Maymyo) to Hsipaw section (11 Hours) one way and return by road. Lashio is four hours from Hsipaw by train.
Pickups leave early in the morning from Mandalay (6 hours, 500 kyat) or Pyin oo Lwin (4 hours, 300 kyat) for Hsipaw. It is a long and uncomfortable ride and not recommended unless you can get a seat in the front.
Early morning buses leave from Mandalay to Hsipaw (3000 kyat) and from Hsipaw to Mandalay. For buses out of Hsipaw, the ticket offices for the two companies are on Namtu Road across from Mr. Food and, for the express bus, at the Shan Market. Buy your ticket on the previous day (your hotel will arrange one at no cost) and try for a seat towards the front of the bus and preferably not on the seat that folds into the aisle (yes, the aisles are blocked for the ride!). A bus ride to Lashio (800 kyat) takes two hours and buses, you got it, leave early in the morning. Both bus companies will pick you up from your hotel, sometimes an hour before the bus leaves (buses leave at about 6am), so you may find it better to walk to the bus yourself.
Depending on availability (shared taxis run with at least three passengers). Between Mandalay and Hsipaw about 10,000 kyat and between Pyin Oo Lwin and Hsipaw about 9000 kyat. Four hours.
Approximate cost about US$100 for the round trip.
It is easy to get around walking or on a rented bicycle (500 kyat/day). Trishaws are available if you don't want to walk and taxis can be found on the Lashio Road.
The Sawbwas of Hsipaw lived in the '''Shan Palace''' at the northern end of the town. The last Sawbwa disappeared during the military coup in 1962 and the palace is cared for by his nephew and his nephew's wife. It was possible to visit parts of the palace but, since 'Mr. Donald' (Sao Oo Kya), the nephew, is in jail, apparently for saying bad things about the military, visits to the palace are no longer possible. Still, do stop by and look at it from the outside.
At the southern end of town (across the Lashio Road) is the '''Mahamyatmuni Paya'''.
The '''Central Market''' at Hsipaw is one of the best markets to visit in all of Myanmar. Shans, Kachins, and other tribals come here to trade regularly. Because so few tourists visit Hsipaw, the merchandise is geared toward the villagers who go there to shop. Radios, spare parts, diverse foodstuffs, and of course, Shan clothing (trousers, hats, sandals) and the ubiquitous lyongi. The market begins and ends early, starting at 3:30am and pretty much wrapping up by 6am.
Sunset watching at '''Five Buddha Hill''' or '''Nine Buddha Hill''' is another recommended pastime. Both hills are about 2km out of town and are accessible by bicycle.
The '''Bawgyo Paya''', 8km out of town in the direction of Mandalay, is a revered Shan pagoda. In addition to the usual complement of Buddha's, the pagoda also has some ancient statues of Hindu origin in the plaza outside.
Lying in a valley, Hsipaw is a good place for easy day hikes. There are few restrictions on moving around and, unlike in the Inle Lake region, you don't need to hire a guide. Mr. Charles organizes half day boat trips and hikes to Shan Villages and nearby waterfalls, a good way to meet other travelers. (Please see [http://thorntree.lonelyplanet.com/messagepost.cfm?postaction=reply&catid=24&threadid=1274326&messid=11118923&iCountryId=98 this discussion on Thorntree] for caveats on Mr. Charles.)
'''Books''' can be bought at the store run by Mr. Book. It is always interesting to chat with him (he can also arrange tours) but some recent reports (unverified and anecdotal) seem to indicate that he is not as forthcoming as before, possibly because of the dominance of Mr. Charles in the Hsipaw tourist industry. Mr. Charles also runs a book exchange in the lobby across the front desk where you can either buy a book or exchange one for another (for a small fee).
Hsipaw has lots of food being cooked outdoors but few organized eateries. On Namtu Road, across the bridge and toward the turn off for Mr. Charles guest house, several open air eateries serve freshly deep fried veggies in a batter (sort of like an Indian pakora or Japanese tempura). Very delicious. The Market has several stalls that serve snacks (go well before mid-day) and Shan Noodles, the main dish in the Northern Shan State, noodles in a sweet and spicy broth packed with meat and vegetables.
'''Mr Food''' (Law Chun) runs the backpacker restaurant on Namtu Road. Along with the usual Chinese and Shan fare, draft beer (400 kyat) is available.
An '''Unnamed Shack''' across from Mr Food serves Burmese food. No menu or sign but you'll recognize it by the big pots full of curries outside. The food is good but, since it is prepared in the morning, best to go for lunch!
Maureen, an Australian woman married to a Shan, runs a cafe by the Dokhtawady River. Good coffee and conversation is available. (Last heard, her husband was in jail so please do ask her about his well-being.)
'''Mr Charles Guest House''', Awtha Street; private bath (US$7-10); shared bath (US$2-5). Mr. Charles is unusual for Myanmar in the sense that it is a true backpacker hangout with a nice balcony and lounge for meeting other travelers and drinking beer. Rooms in the older wing tend to have shared bathrooms and are noisier (they are close to the common space) while the new wing is quieter. It is possible to arrange anything, bus tickets, share taxis, hikes, trips to Namshan, from here. But do note the caveats in [http://thorntree.lonelyplanet.com/messagepost.cfm?postaction=reply&catid=24&threadid=1274326&messid=11118923&iCountryId=98 this discussion on Thorntree].
'''Nam Khae Mao Guest House''', Bogyoke Road; private bath (US$7-10); shared bath (US$2-5). On the Burma Road itself, the Nam Khae is clean and friendly and can offer everything that Mr. Charles can, except for other backpackers since most people go to Mr. Charles.
Mr. Kid GH is the friendliest place in town. Jsu to give another option. They restyled the GH and freshed up their garden. The family is helping out and a cup of tea is always available!