'''Tait?''' (____) [http://www.city.taito.tokyo.jp/foreign/english/taitou-e.html] is a northeastern district of Tokyo.
Understand
Talk to a Tokyoite about "downtown" (____ ''shitamachi''), and he will think of the Taito district: the train station of '''Ueno''', where migrants from the deep north first arrived in their search for a better life, and the temples of '''Asakusa''', once a boomtown full of prostitutes and gangsters but now long since past its prime. Stuck in a low-rent post-war time warp, here Japan's hypermodernity takes a bit of a breather, with such quaint oddities as bustling street markets and even the occasional wooden house.
Get in
Ueno station is the major hub, connecting together northbound ''Shinkansen'' passengers with the JR Yamanote line, the subway Ginza and Hibiya lines, and the Keisei trains to Narita.
If visiting Tokyo University, the Hong? Sanch?me Stations of the Marunouchi and ?edo subway lines are the most convenient.
See
'''Asakusa''', covered in a separate article, known particularly for '''Senso-ji Temple (Asakusa Kannon)'''.
'''Ueno''', covered in a separate article, packed full of museums and Tokyo's best-known cherry blossom viewing spot.
'''Asakura Sculpture Hall''' (___q___Y__ ''Asakura-ch?s?kan''), Yanaka 7-18-10, 03-3821-4549, [http://www.taitocity.net/taito/asakura/] (Japanese only). It will be shut from April 2009 to March 2013 to fix the weakness of the building for earthquakes. Closed Mondays and Fridays. Not a "museum" in any traditional sense of the word, this is the former custom-designed residence of scholar and sculptor Fumio Asakura. Built around a lovely garden and packed with art, this is a wonderful place to stroll and contemplate the meaning of life. Admission ¥400.
'''Shitamachi Museum Annex''', 2-10-6 Ueno-Sakuragi, 03-3823-4408, open 9:30 AM to 4:30 PM, closed Monday, and Tuesdays following a holiday. Many buildings scattered around the Yanaka district survived the bombings of World War II, including this former sake store built in 1910. Characteristic of Meiji-era architecture, the building now houses a small museum of sake and beer equipment. Admission free.
'''SCAI The Bathhouse''', Kashiwayu-Ato 6-1-23 Yanaka, [http://www.scaithebathhouse.com/en/]. Closed Su, M, holidays. A small gallery showing the work of contemporary artists, the building is a former ''sento'', or bathhouse.
'''Kyu-Iwasaki-tei Teien (Former Iwasaki Family House and garden),''' 1-3-45, Ikenohata, Taito-ku. ''On a side street between Ueno Park and Tokyo University Hospital. Look for small blue directional signs.'' Not a major tourist attraction, but an interesting bit of history. The house was built in the Meiji era in the style of an American or British mansion. In WW II the fire raids consumed most of the houses behind the mansion, which was used by GHQ during the occupation. A few attached Japanese-style rooms remain. Sit and sip green tea. The garden--mostly lawn and trees--is of no great interest.
Do
Buy
Markets
'''Yanaka''' (_J__), '''Nezu''' (____) and '''Sendagi''' (______) are adjacent low-key commercial and residential neighborhoods full of traditional, quirky little shops, particularly along the very tongue-in-cheek '''Yanaka Ginza''' (_J______, [http://www.yanakaginza.com/]) shopping street. The area is best reached on the Metro Chiyoda line to Sendagi or the JR Yamanote Line to Nippori.
'''Chaho Kanekichi-en''' (_______g__). Yanaka 3-11-10, [http://www.yanakaginza.com/koten/kanekitien/index.html]. An old-school tea shop near the entrance to Yanaka Ginza, just follow the smell of roasting tea. They prepare their own blends, which are uniformly excellent: try the slightly bitter Snow Plum (_____~ ''Yuki-no-Ume'', ¥600 per 100g) or the unusual Yanaka Midori (_J________, ¥600-1000 per 100g), a mix of roasted tea stems (the cheapest tea) with tea-ceremony grade ''matcha'' (the most expensive tea). Ask to see the private garden and if they're in a good mood they just might let you have a peek.
'''Got? no Ame''' (________). A traditional Japanese candy (''ame'') shop at the very end of Yanaka Ginza, everything sold here is made on premises and quite cheap (¥100+). Closed Wednesdays.
Eat
'''Zakuro''' [http://zakuro.oops.jp] , Nishi-Nippori 3-14-13 (''3 min. directly west of JR Nippori North Exit''), 03-3822-1543. Located in the heart of the traditional Yanaka neighborhood, this Persian/Turkish restaurant goes all-out on the "dining experience": you sit on the carpeted floor, they make you wear middle-eastern garb, and dessert includes a hookah (water-pipe) to puff on! And all the while, the owner wanders from table to table making wisecracks in Japanese. The set dinner course (¥2000) is guaranteed to leave anyone stuffed.
Aoi Marushin. -4-4 Asakusa. 03)3841-0110. Tempura, Tempura, Tempura. Aoi Marushin is the largest tempura restaurant in Tokyo!
Bentenyama Miyakozushi Souhonten. -1-16 Asakusa. 03) 3844-0034. This is a very small, very expensive (min $100/person for dinner)sushi restaurant in Taito. If you are a sushi buff this is that place for you, with fantastic sushi and great ambiance.
Drink
Cafes
'''Yanaka Bossa''', 6-1-27 Yanaka, 03-3823-5952 (''yanakabossa@r9.dion.ne.jp'') [http://www.yanakabossa.jp] (Japanese only). 11:30 AM-8 PM, closed Tu. Coffees and light meals with a Brazilian theme.
Sleep
Taito has Tokyo's best range of cheap to midrange accommodation. The listings below cover only more far-flung bits of the district, see Asakusa and Ueno for listings of hotels in the immediate vicinity of the two central stations.
Budget
The area around '''Minami-Senju''' (_____Z), near the northern end of the Tokyo Metro Hibiya Line, has some of Tokyo's cheapest budget accommodations. The typical room is an individual tatami flat of 2 square-meters, with television and air-conditioning. The bedding is Japanese style (futon set and pillow). All hotels listed here cater regularly to backpackers and have some English ability.
'''bakpak Tokyo Hostel''', 3-12-5 Ryusen, Taito-Ku, (Hibya line MINOWA STATION ,H19 , EXIT # 1B) tel. +81-3-38753264, [http://www.tokyohostels.com/]. Dorms from $18/night. private from $25 /night .
'''New Koyo''' [http://www.newkoyo.jp/], 2-26-13 Nihonzutsumi, tel. +81-3-3873-0343. Single room range from \2500 to \2700 depending on the size.
'''New Azuma''' [http://www9.ocn.ne.jp/~h-azuma/uk/], 38-3, 2 Chome, Kiyokawa, tel +81-3-6802-0716. Single room range from \2500 to \3100 depending on the season.
'''Juyoh Hotel''', 2-15-3 Kiyokawa (''10 min. walk from Minamisenju station''). 03-3875-5362, (''fax 03-5603-5775''). [http://www.juyoh.co.jp/]. Very nice cheap hotel, prices ranging from ¥3200 for a single (''¥2980 with a discount coupon printable from their web page, includes cleaning service every other day'') to ¥6400 for a double (''¥5960 with coupon''). Internet access available in the lobby, five PC's and Macs available; wireless and ethernet support for laptops.
Mid-range
'''Annex Katsutaro Ryokan''' (_A_l_b_N_X_____Y____) 3-8-4 Yanaka (''near Yanaka Ginza shopping district''), 03-3828-2500 (''fax 03-3821-5400''). [http://www.katsutaro.com/]. Japanese-style rooms, 1 person ¥6300, 2 people ¥10,500. Internet available. Built in 2001.
'''Sawanoya Ryokan''', 2-3-11 Yanaka, (''7 min walk from Nezu station, 10min taxi from Ueno station''), (03)3822 2251 ([mailto:sawanoya@tctv.ne.jp sawanoya@tctv.ne.jp], fax (03)3822 2252) [http://www.sawanoya.com/]. Closed Dec 29 - Jan 3. Well-known ryokan, all bedrooms with tatami floors. 2 rooms with bath, the 10 others share two Japanese-style baths and showers. Good neighbourhood to simply wander and look at the houses and gardens. Free internet and LAN points in all rooms. Friendly helpful staff. Single ¥4935-5250 without bathroom, double ¥9240/9870 without/with bath, triple ¥12600/14175 without/with bath.
Andon Ryokan. -34-10 Nihonzutsumi Taito, Tokyo, Japan 111-0021. mins walk from Minowa subway station; check website for map.. 3-3873-8611. 3-3873-8612. ttp://www.andon.co.jp/. yen;8190 for double/twin. Run by the same family as New Koyo, this is a well-kept ryokan north of Ueno.
'''Weekly Nippori Center''', _____s_______J__ 3-2-12 tel. +81-3-5834-0150, [http://www.weeklycenter.co.jp/nippori.html].Rates from 3700 for single to 7800 for triple. 8 mins walk from JR Nippori Yamanote Line and 3 mins from Sendagi Station Chiyoda Line Tokyo Metro
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