'''Hiroshima''' (_L__) [http://www.hcvb.city.hiroshima.jp/e_navigator/index.html] is an industrial city of wide boulevards, criss-crossing rivers and a dense city center. It is located along the coast of the Seto Inland Sea in the western Chugoku region of Japan. Although many only know it for the horrific split second on August 6, 1945, when it became the site of the world's first '''atomic bomb attack''', it is now a modern, cosmopolitan city with a lot of great food and nightlife.

Understand

Those expecting to step off the Shinkansen into a pile of smouldering rubble may be in for a surprise, as Hiroshima has all the ferroconcrete and blinking neon of any other modern Japanese city and a population of more than 1,100,000 people. It is the financial center of the Chugoku region and most of west Japan. Automobiles are a major local industry, with Mazda's corporate headquarters nearby. There is also a busy port, Ujina.

Hiroshima was founded in 1589 on the delta formed by the Ota River, flowing out to the Seto Inland Sea. It became a major industrial center and one of Japan's larger cities in the Meiji period. During World War II, the Japanese military used Hiroshima as a communications and supply center, taking advantage of its position on the Inland Sea. It was left largely untouched by aerial bombing campaigns before the atomic bomb was dropped. It is estimated that 140,000 people were killed in the explosion and its aftermath. The survivors, known as ''hibakusha'', were subjected not only to radiation-related diseases but severe discrimination from other Japanese, but have since been at the forefront of Japan's post-war pacifism and its campaign against the use of nuclear weapons. Although many visitors, especially Americans, may feel apprehensive about visiting Hiroshima, it is a friendly, welcoming city, with as much interest in Western culture as anywhere else in Japan. The exhibits related to the atomic bomb are not concerned with blame or accusations. Tourists are welcomed with open arms. Bear in mind, though, that many of the ''hibakusha'' still live in the city, and even most of the young people in Hiroshima have family members who lived through the blast. As such, the average Hiroshima resident isn't likely to relish talking about it, although you needn't shy away from the topic if one of the chatty fellows around the Peace Park brings it up.

Climate

Unfortunately, most travelers experience Hiroshima during the worst weather of the year, in July and August, when days of heavy rain give way to brutal, muggy heat. Don't book accommodations without air conditioning if that's when you're planning to visit. Also note that in the latter half of September, warm and pleasant days are interspersed with typhoons powerful enough to wreck buildings (such as the one that nearly destroyed '''Itsukushima Shrine''' on Miyajima in 2004) and keep travelers locked up in their hotels.

October and November are ideal, with less rain and cool, refreshing temperatures. The winter months are fine for a visit — the weather is dry, with very little rain or snow, and the temperatures are rarely cold enough to keep you indoors. As elsewhere in Japan, though, a number of museums are closed from 12/29 to 1/1 (or 1/3).

April and May also have excellent weather. The cherry blossoms come out in early April, and the parks around '''Hiroshima Castle''' will be a mob scene with ''hanami'' parties. For ''sakura'' with a bit more solitude, go for a hike on '''Ushita-yama''', overlooking the north exit of JR Hiroshima Station (see Recreation).

Literature

  • Eleanor Coerr's ''Sadako and the Thousand Paper Cranes'' tells the true story of Sadako Sasaki, a young bomb victim who was inspired to fold cranes by a Japanese folk tale, which said that anyone who folds over a thousand cranes will have their wish come true. According to some versions of the story, Sadako completed more than a thousand before she died of leukemia at the age of twelve; in Coerr's book, she finished about 640 before died, and her schoolmates completed the rest in her memory.
  • John Hersey's ''Hiroshima'' is a short but gripping book that describes the experiences of six people — five Japanese citizens and a German priest — before and after the blast. It was originally published as an issue-length article in ''The New Yorker'' in August 1946. Almost forty years later, Hersey returned to Hiroshima to write a follow-up article, which continues the survivors' stories in the post-war years, and it is included in new editions of the book.
  • Masuji Ibuse's ''Black Rain'' is a novel about the post-war experiences of a family of ''hibakusha'' as they face discrimination in post-war Japanese society for both employment and marriage, and cope with health problems from radiation poisoning, the consequences of which were barely understood by doctors of the time.
  • Keiji Nakazawa's ''Barefoot Gen'' is the most popular ''manga'' treatment of the atomic bomb story, based loosely on Nakazawa's own experience as a young boy in the days immediately after the blast.
  • Many Japanese people also associate Hiroshima with the ''yakuza'', thanks to the classic 1971 Bunta Sugawara / Kinji Fukasaku gangster film ''Battles Without Honor and Humanity'' (also known as ''The Yakuza Papers'') and its four sequels, which were set in the city.
  • Orientation

    Most visitors arrive at '''JR Hiroshima Station''', which is a 15 minute walk from the city center. If you arrive by ''shinkansen'', you will be at the back of the station (north exit). There is an underground pedestrian walkway leading to the main side of the station (south exit), where all other trains arrive. Take the pedway and head upstairs; you will see the taxis, trams, and buses that lead to the city center. If you continue on the underground walkway, you'll reach an escalator that exits by a major bridge, with the station now behind you; you can walk to the Peace Park from there, branching right on '''Aioi-dori'''.

    There is a '''tourist information office''' on the second floor of the south side of JR Hiroshima Station), and another on the first floor of the north side. Both are open 9:30AM-5PM daily. You can pick up an incredibly useful tourist map here that will point out the location of the major tourist sites as well as many of the well-known restaurants and bars.

    Other visitors may arrive at the '''Hiroshima Bus Center''' (_L___o_X_Z___^_[) [http://www.h-buscenter.com] on the third floor of the '''SOGO''' department store, which is just down the street from the Peace Park. '''Coin lockers''' are available at both the Hiroshima Bus Center and JR Hiroshima Station.

    Generally speaking, addresses in '''Minami-ku''' (Minami Ward) are in the station area, while '''Naka-ku''' (Naka Ward) covers the Peace Park and its surroundings.

    Get in

    By plane

    '''Hiroshima Airport''' ({{IATA|HIJ}}) [http://www.hij.airport.jp/english/] connects to domestic destinations in Japan. Both ANA and JAL offer flights from Tokyo Haneda and Sapporo Chitose airports. ANA also offers flights from Narita, Sendai and Okinawa. There are direct international flights from Bangkok, Beijing, Dalian, Guam, Shanghai, Seoul, and Taipei.

    Buses connect the airport to JR Hiroshima Station (48 minutes, ¥1300) and the Hiroshima Bus Center (51-53 minutes, ¥1300). There are also buses from the airport to Okayama, Onomichi, Iwakuni, Tottori, and other spots in the Chugoku region.

    By train

    Hiroshima is a major station on the '''JR West''' [http://www.westjr.co.jp/english/global.html] San'yo Shinkansen line, with ''Hikari'' use covered by the Japan Rail Pass. It is roughly 40 minutes from Okayama (¥5350) and 90 minutes from Shin-Osaka (¥9440). Tokyo is four hours away via ''Nozomi'' (¥17,540) and five hours via ''Hikari'' (change trains once at Shin-Kobe or Himeji).

    Traveling overnight by train from Tokyo, you can take the 10PM ''Sunrise Izumo/Sunrise Seto'' train to Okayama (arrival at 6:27 AM the next morning), then take an early ''shinkansen'' to Hiroshima, arriving around 7:45 AM.

    Regular train services run through Hiroshima on the San'yo Main Line (between Kobe and Kagoshima), along with several smaller, local lines.

    By bus

    Long-distance buses run from the north exit (''shinkansen'' side) of JR Hiroshima Station and the Hiroshima Bus Center.

    The ''New Breeze'' overnight bus runs from Tokyo to Hiroshima. There are two nightly departures in each direction: departing from Tokyo at 8PM and 9PM, with both buses arriving in Hiroshima at 8AM the next day. The trip costs ¥11,600 one way, ¥21,200 round trip.

    There are two overnight buses from Osaka — the ''Sanyo Dream Hiroshima'' from JR Osaka Station and the ''Venus'' from the Namba bus terminal. Both cost ¥5700 one way, ¥11,000 round trip. One overnight bus runs from Kyoto between JR Kyoto Station and Hiroshima at (¥6300 one way, ¥11400 round trip).

    Daytime express buses run from Osaka (about five hours each way), with five departures daily (¥5000 one way, ¥9000 round trip) and two from Kyoto (5 1/2 hours, ¥5500 one way, ¥10000 round trip).

    Among the many discount bus carriers that ply these routes, '''123bus''' [http://www.123bus.net] runs day and night services from Tokyo (¥6900 one way), Osaka (¥3400) and Fukuoka (¥2700), with an English call center (050-5805-0383).

    By ferry

    Ferries dock at Hiroshima's '''Ujina Port''', which also serves as terminus for several tram lines. '''Ishizaki Kisen''' [http://www.ishizakikisen.co.jp/] operates daily service to and from Matsuyama in Shikoku, with some boats stopping in Kure (__) along the way. The ride takes 70-80 minutes to reach Matsuyama and costs ¥6300 each way. Slower ferries arrive in about 2 1/2 hours at a much-reduced cost of ¥2700.

    Get around

    By tram

    Hiroshima is the last major city in Japan with an extensive tram (streetcar) network, which is operated by '''Hiroden''' [http://www.hiroden.co.jp/train/rosenzu/streetcar_map.htm] (_L_d). It's a slow but reliable way of getting around. The trams themselves are a mix of old rattle-traps (some of which have been in service for more than fifty years) and sleek, new "Green Liners" — although they all run on the same lines for the same fares. There's no difference other than the smoothness of the ride. Because the trams were bought up from other cities that decided to ditch their own, you're getting a tour of Japanese transit history — that might be an old Kyoto tram that's taking you through Hiroshima. During the summer, open-air trams are a rare but occasional sight.

    Most lines originate from JR Hiroshima Station, and run frequently during daytime and evening hours. Boarding and payment procedures vary by tram; however, the entrance and exit are usually clearly marked in English. (If in doubt, just follow the locals.) Pay as you exit. Change machines are usually available on board if you don't have exact change — check near the front or back of the car. Trips within the city are a flat ¥150, while trundling out all the way to Miyajima will set you back ¥280. One-day passes are available from the tourist office for ¥600 (¥300 children), or ¥840 (¥420 children) including the ferry to Miyajima.

    By bus

    Bus lines run through Hiroshima and out to the suburbs. Generally speaking, these serve areas more likely to be used by locals than visitors, but #30 does run to the Hiroshima Youth Hostel (see Sleep). Signs include English, and buses depart next to the tram depot in front of JR Hiroshima Station.

    By metro

    The modern '''Astram''' [http://www.astramline.co.jp/] (_A_X_g_______C__) links the city center with the northern suburbs, although there are only a few tourist sights out that way. Trips range from ¥180-470 by distance, with departures every few minutes between 6AM-midnight. The underground station at the end of Hon-dori, near the Peace Park, is the terminus in the city center.

    By bike

    Hiroshima is a great city for cycling. Most of the sidewalks in Hiroshima are fairly wide by Japanese standards, if you're just looking for transportation to and from the sights. But the paths along the branches of the city's rivers offer a very pleasant ride, and if you're looking to test your legs, head up to the hills around Hijiyama-koen (see below).

  • <listing name="Nippon Rent-a-Car" alt="" directions="" address="3-14 Kojin-machi, Minami-ku" phone="082-264-0919" email="" fax="" url="http://www.nipponrentacar.co.jp/english/" hours="24 hours" price=""> And rent-a-bicycle as well, with rates by the hour or the day. Walk left along the main street in front of the south exit of JR Hiroshima Station for about four blocks.</listing>
  • Many hotels will be happy to arrange bike rentals as well.

    See

    Peace Memorial Park

    Most of the memorials related to the atomic bomb are in and around the '''Peace Memorial Park''' (___a____ ''Heiwa-k?en'') [http://www.pcf.city.hiroshima.jp/top_e.html], reachable by tram line 2 or 6 to ''Genbaku Domu-mae''. Coming from JR Hiroshima Station, you'll see the Peace Park on your left just before crossing the T-shaped '''Aioi Bridge''', which is thought to have been the target of the bomb.

    Once part of the busy '''Nakajima''' merchant district, this area was destroyed almost in its entirety by the bomb. Today, there are more than fifty memorials, statues, and other structures in the Park. Some will be obscure in their meaning; others are devastating. There is no entry fee, save for the Peace Memorial Museum, and access is not restricted at night.

  • The skeletal remains of the '''A-Bomb Dome''' (_____h_[__ ''Genbaku D?mu'') are the most recognizable symbol of the atomic bombing in Hiroshima. In another lifetime, the building was one of the city's best-known sights for an entirely different reason; designed by Czech architect Jan Letzel in 1915, the Hiroshima Prefectural Commercial Exhibition Hall (and its fanciful green dome) had a bold European style in a city with few modern flourishes. Because the explosion took place almost directly above the building, the walls remained largely intact, even as the dome shattered and the people inside were killed by the heat of the blast. Virtually nothing else was left standing in the city center. Initially, as the city rebuilt, it was left alone simply because it was more difficult to demolish than other remains in the area; gradually, it became the symbol it is today. The "Hiroshima Peace Memorial" was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1996 amid some controversy — the United States and China both voted against the nomination for reasons related to the war. Today, the benches around A-Bomb Dome are a favorite spot for Hiroshima natives to read, eat lunch, or simply relax.
  • One block east of the A-Bomb Dome (outside Shima Clinic) is a plaque which marks the '''Hypocenter''', the exact point above which the bomb exploded.
  • The '''Statue of the A-Bomb Children''' is perennially draped in thousands of ''origami'' paper cranes folded by schoolchildren across Japan in the memory of the young bomb victim Sadako Sasaki (see Literature).
  • The '''Memorial Tower to the Mobilized Students''' commemorates the 6,300 students who were conscripted to work in munitions factories and killed in the atomic bomb. There are statues of doves scattered throughout its five levels; at the base is a beautiful Kannon statue, always draped with origami cranes.
  • Tens of thousands of forced laborers from Korea were working in Hiroshima at the time of the attack. But the '''Monument in Memory of the Korean Victims of the A-Bomb''' was erected outside the Peace Park in 1970, and only moved within its boundaries in 1999. Today, the turtle at the base of the monument — symbolically carrying the dead to the afterlife — tends to be draped in his fair share of colorful origami cranes and flowers.
  • The '''Bell of Peace''' is engraved with a world map, drawn without borders to symbolize unity. The public are welcomed to ring the bell — not subtly, the log is aimed to strike an atomic symbol.
  • The '''Atomic Bomb Memorial Mound''' holds the ashes of 70,000 bomb victims who were unidentified or had no living relatives to claim them. Services are held in their memory on the 6th of every month.
  • The '''Rest House''' was known as the '''Taishoya Kimono Shop''' at the time of the explosion. Only one employee, who was in the basement at the time, survived. However, the reinforced concrete building stayed mostly intact. (The interior has been entirely refurbished, but the preserved basement is possible to visit with advance request.) Today, it holds a gift shop, some vending machines, a helpful tourist information office, and — as the name would suggest — a place to rest.
  • Inside the '''Cenotaph for the A-Bomb Victims''' is a stone chest with a registry that is intended to contain the names of every known person who died from the bombing, regardless of nationality. (Names are added as ''hibakusha'' pass away from diseases thought related to the radiation of the bomb.) Under the arch of the Cenotaph is a flame which, it is said, will not be extinguished until the last nuclear weapons are gone from the earth. The Japanese inscription reads, "Let all the souls here rest in peace, for we shall not repeat the evil." Note how the arch frames the A-Bomb Dome in the distance.
  • Hiroshima National Peace Memorial Hall for the Atomic Bomb Victims. -6 Nakajima-cho, Naka-ku. 82-543-6271. ttp://www.hiro-tsuitokinenkan.go.jp/english/. :30AM-6PM March-July, Sep-Nov; Dec-Feb to 5PM, Aug to 7PM, closed 12/29-1/1. dmission free. The Peace Memorial Hall is dedicated to collecting names and photographs of people who died in the blast. The entrance of the museum leads downward to a quiet hall for contemplation, and then back up again to a set of kiosks with compelling stories and recollections from survivors (in English and Japanese). Along with the Cenotaph and the Peace Memorial Museum, it was designed by architect Kenzo Tange.

  • Peace Memorial Museum. __a_L_O______ Heiwa Kinen Shiry?kan. -2 Nakajima-cho, Naka-ku. 82-242-7798. ttp://www.pcf.city.hiroshima.jp/top_e.html. :30AM-6PM March-Nov, to 5PM Dec-Feb, to 7PM Aug, closed 12/29-1/1. ntry costs a token ¥50 adults, ¥30 kids; audio guides are available for an additional donation. This heart-wrenching museum documents the atomic bomb and its aftermath, from scale models of the city "before" and "after" to melted tricycles and other displays and artifacts related to the blast. Some are extremely graphic, evocative, and quite disturbing. The rest of the museum describes the post-war struggles of the ''hibakusha'' and an appeal for the abolition of nuclear weapons in the world today. Be warned: a visit here, while absolutely worthwhile, ''will'' ruin your day. Allow plenty of time afterward to decompress.

  • International Conference Center. -5 Nakajima-cho, Naka-ku. 82-242-7777. ttp://www.pcf.city.hiroshima.jp/icch/english.html. AM-9PM. At the south end of the Peace Park, this complex of buildings has an '''International Exchange Lounge''' with English-language publications and city information; it also has '''Restaurant Serenade''' (10AM-7PM, tel. 082-240-7887).

  • The '''Statue of Mother and Child in the Storm''', completed in 1960 by artist Shin Hongo, is among the most powerful works of art created in response to the atomic bomb. It depicts a woman shielding her child from the black rain. It's in front of the '''Fountain of Prayer''' just south of the Peace Memorial Museum.
  • The '''Gates of Peace''' were installed in 2005 on Heiwa-odori, just north of the Peace Park, by a pair of French artists. On the sidewalk and the surface of the gates, the word "peace" is written in 49 languages. The ten gates are meant to represent the nine circles of hell from Dante's ''Inferno'', plus a new one: the hell created by the atomic bombing.
  • Outside the Peace Park

  • As you explore the city and outskirts, keep an eye out for maroon-colored marble '''historical markers''' such as the one outside the A-Bomb Dome or the one marking the Hypocenter, which have photographs and text in both Japanese and English. You'll come across markers as far as a few miles away from the Peace Park — which lends perspective to the distance and extent of the damage.
  • Honkawa Elementary School Museum. -39 Honkawacho 1-chome, Naka-ku. 82-291?3396. ttp://www.honkawa-e.edu.city.hiroshima.jp/peace/peacetop.htm. pen during school hours. dmission is free. Of the more than 400 students and teachers who were in the school when the bomb exploded, only one student and one teacher survived. After a new school was built, this section of the original structure was kept as a museum, housing a small collection of photos and artifacts.

  • Fukuromachi Elementary School Museum. -36 Fukuromachi, Naka-ku. 82-541-5345. ttp://www.fukuromachi-e.edu.city.hiroshima.jp/shiryoukan-index.htm. AM-5PM. dmission is free. Like Honkawa, part of the original school building that remained standing after the atomic bomb has been converted into a museum. In the days after the explosion, survivors used the school's chalk to leave messages for lost friends and family members on its blackened walls.

  • After the A-Bomb Dome, the former '''Bank of Japan''' (5-16 Fukuro-machi, Naka-ku — Fukuro-machi tram stop) is the best-known pre-bomb structure in Hiroshima. Built in 1936, the city's main branch of the ''Nippon Ginko'' was only 380 meters from the Hypocenter; although its exterior remained intact, all 42 people inside the bank were killed by the heat of the blast. Remarkably, the bank was back in service only two days after the bomb and continued operation until 1992, when it was acquired by the city. Occasional art exhibitions are now held there. Hours of access are irregular, but it's worth stopping by to check.
  • Somewhat incongruously, the 1925 '''Hiroshima Mitsui Bank''' (7-1 Hon-dori, Naka-ku) now serves as home of a busy Andersen Bakery cafe. The ground-level renovations and the ceiling of the Hon-dori arcade combine to obscure its age, but there's a historical marker on the corner, and stepping out of Hon-dori to the side street gives a better view of the building.
  • There is a fascinating, little-known pre-bomb house on the outskirts of Hijiyama-koen. Walk up toward the park on the street branching upward from the Hijiyamashita tram stop. You'll see a temple on your left with a historical marker out front. Just past the temple is a set of stone steps, leading up to a small house and explanatory plaque. (Notice the vane at the top of the house, warped from the heat of the bomb.) Please note that while visitors are welcome in the front yard, the rest of the area is private property, including the house itself.
  • From the ''shinkansen'' side of JR Hiroshima Station, you'll see an enigmatic silver tower on Futaba-yama, the mountain ahead. That's the '''Peace Pagoda''' (''Busshari-to''), built in 1966 in memory of those killed by the atomic bomb. To reach it, simply head uphill on the main street facing away from the station. You'll pass through a quiet, pleasant neighborhood of cafes and hillside houses, climb steps, and eventually reach '''Toshogu Shrine'''. Follow the road around the shrine and you'll reach the red lanterns and ''torii'' of '''Kinko Inari Shrine'''. Head through the gates and up the steps to reach the Peace Pagoda. It's an even more impressive sight from the top of the mountain; inside the Pagoda are two gifts containing ashes of the Buddha, which were a gift to Hiroshima from India and a group of Mongolian Buddhists, along with thousands of prayer stones. You'll also be able to see the whole jumble of the city below.
  • Chuo-koen area

  • Chuo-koen. _______. aka-ku. A big, sprawling green space in the middle of the city. Broadly defined, the park grounds include many of the attractions below, including the castle and the Carp's old baseball stadium (scheduled for demolition). But Chuo Park is worthy of note in its own right, with walking paths and athletic fields — there are quite a lot of open-invitation soccer, football, and ultimate frisbee games that are regularly held here, so don't be shy about showing up with your athletic shoes and seeing if anyone needs an extra.

  • Hiroshima Castle. L____ Hiroshima-j?. 1-1 Moto-machi, Naka-ku. 82-221-7512. AM-6PM, to 5PM Dec-Feb. yen;360 adults, ¥180 kids. The original Carp (''Rijo'') Castle was built in the 1590s by Hideyoshi's warlord Terumoto M?ri, predating the city itself. It was destroyed by the atomic bomb, by which time it was serving as a military headquarters, and reconstructed in 1958. Some of the original concrete foundations can still be seen. Today, the castle grounds are a nice place for a walk, and definitely Hiroshima's favorite place for ''hanami'' (cherry blossom parties), with more than 350 ''sakura'' trees. The five-story castle museum is an attractive reconstruction of the 16th century ''donjon'', with interesting relics and armor to see (and try on), as well as some informative displays about the history of the castle and the city. The view from the top is worth the entrance fee all by itself.

  • Gokoku-jinja. -21 Motomachi, Naka-ku. 82-221-5590. ttp://www.h-gokoku.or.jp/. A concrete shrine on the castle grounds. It has great significance to locals, having been rebuilt after the atomic blast and now the center for most annual Shinto traditions in the city, but other than a historical marker, there's nothing to see for travelers unless you're looking for New Year's Eve festivities.

  • Hiroshima Children's Museum. -83 Motomachi, Naka-ku. enbaku domu-mae tram stop. 82-222-5346. ttp://www.pyonta.city.hiroshima.jp/english/. u-Su 9AM-5PM. yen;500 adults, ¥250 kids. Great fun for kids, with hand-on science exhibits and a planetarium on the top floor. There's also a library with a few shelves of English language books.

  • Hiroshima Museum of Art. -2 Motomachi, Naka-ku. amiya-cho tram stop. 82-223-2530. ttp://www.hiroshima-museum.jp/english_top. AM-5PM. yen;1000 adults, ¥500 teens, ¥200 kids. Established by the Hiroshima Bank in 1978. The permanent collection covers European art from late Romanticism to early Picasso, including a couple of Japanese painters who painted in Western styles. There's at least one painting by every Famous Artist of the period, but no major works by any of them. It's on the other side of Jonan-dori from Hiroshima Castle.

    Hijiyama-koen area

  • Hijiyama-koen. inami-ku. ijiyamashita tram stop. A huge park to the south of JR Hiroshima Station, between two branches of the river. (Follow Ekimae-dori from the station to the southeast, and you'll walk directly into it.) There are the usual areas for sitting in the sun (and rather a lot of stray cats), but much of the park remains refreshingly undeveloped forest, save for a futuristic tunnel to a neighboring shopping complex.

  • Hiroshima City Manga Library. -4 Hijiyama-koen, Minami-ku. 82-261-0330. ttp://www.library.city.hiroshima.jp/english/. u-Su 10AM-5PM. ree. Around the corner from the City Museum of Contemporary Art (below). The vast majority of the ''manga'' are in Japanese, of course, but they do have a selection of Western superhero comics.

  • Hiroshima City Museum of Contemporary Art. iroshima MOCA. -1 Hijiyama-Koen, Minami-ku. 82-264-1121. ttp://www.hcmca.cf.city.hiroshima.jp/web/. u-Su 10AM-5PM. yen;360 adults, ¥270 college students, and ¥170 for other students. Probably the most deserving of a visit among Hiroshima's art museums. There are a few famous Western names in its collection, including Andy Warhol and Frank Stella, but the real focus is on interesting modern Japanese artists working in their own styles, and the exhibition designers make creative use of the museum space. Special exhibitions cost extra. There is a sculpture garden outside that can be visited for free, and a decent city-view from the plaza near the museum's front steps. (Head past the giant sloping gate-sculpture.)

    Other sights

  • Fudoin Temple. stram to Fudoin-mae. -4-9 Ushita Shin-machi, Higashi-ku. 82-221-6923. dmission is free. Only a short trip north of the city, the 14th century Fudoin Temple is another of the few structures in the area to have survived the atomic blast. The Main Hall is an impressive sight, and both the bell tower and the two-story gate are regarded as cultural treasures.

  • Hiroshima City Transportation Museum. -12-2 Chorakuji, Asaminami-ku. stram to Chorakuji Station. 82-878-6211. ttp://www.vehicle.city.hiroshima.jp/home/f_englis.html. u-Su 9AM-5PM. ree on the first floor, elsewhere ¥500 adults, ¥250 kids. Located on the outskirts of the city, the Transportation Museum has exhibits and interactive games about planes, trains, ships, and cars of the past, present, and future — and a transit nerd's treasure trove of details about the history and model numbers of Hiroshima's streetcars. (Tram #654, which remained in service after the atomic blast, is on display.) Outside, behind the museum, there is a track with many odd, funny and interesting kinds of bicycles to ride. It's great fun for children.

  • Hiroshima Prefectural Museum of Art. -22 Kaminobori-cho, Naka-ku. hukkeien-mae tram stop. 82-221-6246. ttp://hpam-unet.ocn.ne.jp/english/. u-Su 9AM-5PM, Sa to 7PM. yen;500 adults, ¥300 for college students, children free. Has a good permanent collection of modern European art, including major works by Dali and Magritte, and a a few modern Japanese artists as well. Special exhibitions are of a generally high quality, ranging from Persian carpets to ''The Legend of Ultraman''. It's located in front of Shukkeien, east of Hiroshima Castle, a couple blocks north of Jonan-dori and Hakushima-dori.

  • Mazda Museum. -1 Mukainada-cho, Shinchi. 82-252-5050. ttp://www.mazda.com/museum/. ours weekdays 9:30AM and 1PM in Japanese, 1PM in English. Space is limited, and they ask that you call first to make a reservation. ree. Mazda's corporate headquarters are a short distance outside of Hiroshima. The tour is a must for any automobile fan, but if you have any serious technical questions, then you should go on the Japanese tour and bring along your own interpreter, as there's less detail on the English tour. Highlights include the Mazda Cosmos (the world's first car with a rotary engine) and the 4-Rotor Mazda 787B, which is the only Japanese car to win at Le Mans. From there you will be taken to their Ujina plant and the actual assembly line, with a look at some of their concept vehicles. To get there, take the San'yo line two stops east to JR Mukainada Station, head two blocks south, turn right, and cross the street.

  • Mitaki-dera. 11 Mitaki-yama, Nishi-ku. 82-237-0811. dmission is free. Originally founded in 809 AD, Mitaki-dera is a tranquil, lovely temple to the west of Hiroshima, known for its three waterfalls, which supply the water for the annual Peace Memorial Ceremony (see Festivals), as well as its gorgeous autumn colors and fascinating statues. The ''tahoto'' (treasure pagoda) was moved here from

    Do

    Festivals

  • Flower Festival. ttp://www.hiroshima-ff.com/. irst weekend of May. dmission is free. This is Hiroshima's biggest festival, begun in 1975 to celebrate the Carp's first baseball championship. There are food vendors and things for sale, but live performances now dominate the program, with comedians and J-pop bands on stages along Heiwa-odori. It's the smaller performances that make the Flower Festival worthwhile, though, particularly in the stalls near Jizo-dori, where you might stumble across a phenomenal Cincinnati Reds-style logo. Red is intended to symbolize a never-ending fighting spirit.
  • The 1978-80 '''''Akaheru''''' (Red Helmets) team was almost certainly the team's apex, setting league records for home runs and winning two championships.
  • However, the Carp's last pennant was 1991, giving them the longest title drought in Japanese baseball.
  • Slugger '''Koji Yamamoto''' is '''Mr. Red Helmet''', the team's all-time great (now retired). The cream of the recent crop are outfielder '''Shigenobu Shima''', the '''Red Godzilla'''; outfielder '''Tomonori Maeda''', the '''arrogant samurai'''; and pitcher '''Hiroki Kuroda''', a recent export to the Los Angeles Dodgers.
  • Cash has been a recurrent problem throughout the team's history, with local citizens pitching in to keep the team afloat on more than one occasion. Today, '''Mazda''' is the team's largest minority owner, but without a deep-pocketed sponsor like Tokyo's Yomiuri Giants or even Sapporo's Hokkaido Nippon Ham Fighters, the Carp struggle to hang on to free agents.
  • The Carp's mascot, '''Slyly''', bears a striking resemblance to the Philly Phanatic because he was designed by the same firm.
  • In 2006, American-born manager '''Marty Brown''' caused a local sensation by throwing a base while arguing a call; t-shirts with the phrase "My Manager Throws Bases" immediately became ''the'' must-have item for Carp fans.}}
  • Chuo-koen Family Pool. -41 Motomachi, Naka-ku. 82-228-0811. AM-6PM. yen;670 adults, ¥340 kids. Open from July 1st-August 31st every year, right when it's needed most, this huge, open-air pool/water park is a popular place for kids and families to beat the heat. And it's easy to find, right in the center of the city.

  • Big Wave. stram to Ushita. 82-222-1860. ttp://www.sports-or.city.hiroshima.jp/locate/02/gaiyou.html. AM-9PM daily, except 8:30AM-9:30PM July-early September. wimming ¥260 kids, ¥530 adults; ice-skating ¥910 kids, ¥1520 adults. On the other hand, if you're a serious swimmer, Big Wave offers longer hours and an Olympic-size 50 meter swim lanes from July to early September. Then, from November to April, it turns into an ice-skating rink. (Rental skates are available, although people with big feet may not manage.)

  • Hiroshima Toyo Carp Baseball. azda Zoom Zoom Stadium, 2-3-1 Minami-Kaniya, Minami-ku. 0 minute walk west from the south exit of JR Hiroshima Station. 82-223-2141. ttp://www.carp.co.jp/. The much-beloved and much-bemoaned Carp are Hiroshima's entry in the Central League of '''Nippon Professional Baseball''' [http://www.npb.or.jp/]. After more than fifty years in a stadium across the street from the Peace Park, the Carp moved to the new '''Mazda Zoom Zoom Stadium''' to begin the 2009 season. While the team doesn't win much, the enthusiasm of the fans can hardly be faulted, and Hiroshima is as good a place as any to witness the fervor of Japanese baseball fandom. Tickets range from ¥1800 to ¥3500. Ask for the ¥1800 Carp Performance (_J_[_v _p_t_H_[_}___X) tickets — that's where the drums, chants, and excitement are. Tickets are on sale at the stadium starting at 10AM, the "Green Window" at JR Hiroshima Station, and a number of convenience stores.

  • Hiroshima Sanfrecce Soccer. ig Arch Stadium, 5-1-1 Ozukanishi, Numata-cho, Asa-Minami-ku. stram to Koiki Koen-mae. 82-233-3233. ttp://www.sanfrecce.co.jp/. ickets are available at most convenience stores. Reserved seats ¥3000-4500 in advance, ¥500 more at the stadium; unreserved ¥2300 in advance, ¥300 more at the stadium. Sanfrecce (Japanese/Italian for "three arrows", from a Japanese folk tale) are Hiroshima's entry in the '''J-League''' [http://www.j-league.or.jp/eng/], although they date back to 1938 as a semi-pro team. As such, they're thoroughly grounded in the local athletic tradition of rarely playing well yet never badly enough to be remarkable about it. But the fans are great, and the quality of play in the J-League is all right, although obviously not comparable to the major European leagues.

  • And if you're on a quest to complete the whole set of Hiroshima professional sports, visit the '''JT Thunders''' [http://www.jti.co.jp/knowledge/thunders/] of the '''V-League''' [http://www.vleague.or.jp/] (volleyball), who hold court at the Nekoda Kinen Gymnasium, and the '''Hiroshima Maple Reds''' [http://www.maplereds.net/] of the '''Japanese Handball League''' [http://www.jhl.handball.jp/eng/], Women's Division, who play at the Hirogin no mori Gymnasium.
  • Work

    Hiroshima features the standard array of English teaching opportunities, with branches of major ''eikaiwa'' like '''Geos''', '''AEON''' and '''ECC''' as well as small, niche language schools. The '''Hiroshima International Center''' (see Contact) is a good place to make inquiries, as is a Saturday night at '''The Shack''' or '''Kemby's''' (see Drink).

    '''Mazda''' is largest employer of foreign personnel in the area, due to their relationship with Ford Motors in Detroit and their manufacturing plants in South America. Contract workers from Southeast Asia and the South Pacific are brought in by Hiroshima-based firms for industries such as ship-building, notably in the nearby city of Kure.

    Some non-Japanese work legally — or under-the-radar — as bartenders or sell jewelry in Nagarekawa, which motivates occasional visa crackdowns (see Stay safe).

    Buy

    The city center is packed with shopping areas. Across the street from JR Hiroshima Station is '''Fukuya''', which has a good selection of English language fiction and travel books on the 10th floor. '''DeoDeo''' and '''Best / Yamada Denki''' are the major electronics stores. There's a towering Denki to your left as you exit JR Hiroshima Station, and a big DeoDeo on Aioi-dori close to the Peace Park.

    Hiroshima has a few major department stores, including the aforementioned Fukuya and '''SOGO''', which also has a good foreign language book section (6th floor), across the street from the Peace Park. For the latest in Japanese teen fashion, though, '''PARCO''' is the place to look. It's in a towering concrete block - just look up - on Hachobori and Hon-dori. '''Club Quattro''' is on the top floor of PARCO, and it plays host to most touring bands that deign to visit Hiroshima. The covered shopping streets of Hon-dori (_{_____jhave plenty of small shops for all purposes, especially clothing. '''SunMall''', at the far end of Hon-dori, has CDs and '''Uniqlo''', which has good, cheap clothing with larger sizes than most Japanese stores.

    A tip for souvenir hunters on a tight budget: check out the fourth floor of the DeoDeo just off Hon-dori, next to the old Hiroshima Mitsui Bank building. There is a 100 yen shop with an improbably excellent selection of distinctively Japanese souvenirs: pottery, sake sets, art, statuettes, signs and cheap ''ukiyo-e''. It's on the left side of the store. Remember, nobody at home knows you only paid 100 yen for it!

    Eat

    Hiroshima is famous for its style of '''''okonomiyaki''''' (___D______), which literally means "cook it as you like it". Often (and somewhat misleadingly) called "Japanese pizza", it is better described as a type of savory pancake made with egg, cabbage, soba noodles, and meat, seafood or cheese. It is grilled in layers on a hot plate in front of you and slathered liberally with ''okonomiyaki'' sauce, with optional extras such as mayonnaise, pickled ginger, and seaweed. It sounds and looks like a mess, but can be very tasty and filling. To give you a sense of the civic pride involved here, the Hiroshima tourist information office offers a map with a whopping ''97'' shops serving ''okonomiyaki'' within city limits.

    Hiroshima style and Osaka style are the two competing types of ''okonomiyaki'', and if you raise the subject of ''okonomiyaki'' with a local, be ready to state your preference between the two! Basically, in Hiroshima the ingredients are layered and pressed together while cooking, while in Osaka the batter is mixed together first. According to local legend, both dishes originate from a cheap snack called ''issen y?shoku'' (___K_m_H) or "one-cent Western meal", which consisted of a wheat and water pancake served with scallions and sauce.

    Hiroshima is also famous for its '''oysters''' (available between October and March) and a maple-leaf-shaped pastry called '''''momiji manj?''''' (_______\__). (''Momiji'' is the leaf of a Japanese maple tree.) Momiji manj? are available with a variety of fillings, including the more traditional ''anko'' (______), red bean and ''matcha'' (____), or green tea; it's also available in cream cheese, custard, apple and chocolate flavors. Boxes of ''momiji manj?'' are considered the quintessential Hiroshima souvenir, but Miyajima is the best place to buy it fresh.

    If you're pressed for time on your way out of town, the sixth floor of JR Hiroshima Station has a good, cheap ''ramen'' shop, an ''udon'' shop, a decent ''izakaya'', a conveyor belt sushi place, and '''STEP''', a good ''okonomiyaki'' joint with English menus. There are Japanese and American chain restaurants clustered near the station, including '''Starbucks''' on the third floor (south exit), '''McDonald's''' on both sides of the station, and the ultra-cheap (¥180 per bowl) '''Bikkuri Ramen''' (___________[____) just across the river from the south exit.

    Budget

  • Jupiter Import Foods. R Hiroshima Station (north exit). 82-242-7371. ttp://www.jupiter-coffee.com/. AM-9:30PM. If you're making dinner at your hotel or missing a certain snack, Jupiter packs a lot of imported foods and alcohol into a pretty small space, with a good selection of standard Western fare and others, particularly Thai and curries. They tend to have a basket or two of free dessert samples near the entrance. There's an entrance right outside the ''shinkansen'' ticket machines and outside the station as well.

  • Okonomi-mura. __D____. -3 Nakamachi, Naka-ku. 82-241-2210. ttp://www.okonomimura.jp/. he shops keep their own hours, but most will be open around 11AM, and a few stay open until 2-3AM. igure on ¥700-1500 for a meal. Three floors packed with no less than 27 ''okonomiyaki'' shops. This, indeed, is Hiroshima culinary nirvana. They all serve beer and ''okonomiyaki'' with some variations (''kim-chee'' oysters, etc), and they'll all start clamoring for your business as soon as you walk through the door. It's right behind PARCO, with a distinctive 'Okonomi-mura' arch out front.

  • Okonomi Monogatari Ekimae-Hiroba. __D______ _w_O_L__. 0-1 Matsubara-cho, Minami-ku. iroshima Full Focus Building, 6th floor. 82-568-7890. 0AM-11PM. eals run about ¥900. Another ''okonomiyaki'' village, with almost twenty shops sharing the same floor, in a vaguely Edo-ish atmosphere. This one is across the street from JR Hiroshima station, next to the Fukuya department store and across from the central post office. (You'll see a banner sign outside.)

  • Organ-za. -4-32 Tokaichi-machi, Naka-ku. orimoto Building, 2nd floor. 82-295-1553. ttp://organ-za.com/. -F 5:30PM-2AM, Sa 11:30AM-2AM, Su 11:30AM-midnight. ost entrees ¥850, with dessert sets and drinks ¥500. If you and your companion have completely different tastes in mind, Organ-za offers dishes from India, Japan, Thailand, Vietnam, and others direct from the imagination of a capable and creative chef. English menus are available. There's also a full bar (tended sometimes by Chie from the late, lamented '''Alcoholiday''') and frequent live music.

  • Otis!. -20 Kako-machi, Naka-ku. 82-249-3885. ttp://homepage2.nifty.com/live-otis/. -Sa 12PM-11PM, Su 5PM-11PM. ost meals ¥700-1200, shows ¥2300-4500 including a drink. Serving Tex-Mex in Hiroshima for more than twenty years, Otis! is the most vegetarian and organic-friendly restaurant in town. They also have a fairly busy schedule of live music, both Japanese and international.

  • Sankanou. O____. 1-2 ?suga, Higashi-ku. ttp://okonomiyakisankanou.seesaa.net. ood and a cold draught beer for about ¥900. A tiny ''okonomi'' shop in a little back alley near the railroad tracks and beside Hiroshima Station. The shopkeep speaks English and is a friendly, enthusiastic young manga fan. He's decorated his shop with Gundam models, moe-moe figurines, manga posters and baseball and wrestling action figures. This shop serves ''okonomiyaki'' in the traditional method, directly on the hot griddle built into the table in front of you. Highly recommended for a visiting anime/manga nerd in search of true Hiroshima ''okonomiyaki'' (the same way Ukyo serves it in ''Ranma ?''!)

  • Tachikoma. _______. -9 Dambara 1-chome, Minami-ku. ambara 1-chome tram stop. 82-262-7635. igure on ¥1000 for a meal. A small ''okonomiyaki'' restaurant about 300m coming from Hijiyama Park towards the main JR Station on the right. At least as good as the Okonomi-mura restaurants. You can also take-away your ''okonomiyaki''.

    Mid-range

  • Cusco Cafe. -23 Hachobori, Naka-ku. 82-502-7366. ttp://barco.ftw.jp/u4737.html. u-Th 11AM-midnight, F-Sa 11AM-1AM. ulti-course set meals from ¥1500-3500; burgers, chicken, and other dishes from ¥590-950; ''tapas'' from ¥390 each. South American food (served by Peruvians) with the occasional Japanese twist — care for some squid ink on your ''paella''? There's a pleasant, eclectic ambiance to the decor and the menu, and a full bar if you're not in a hurry.

  • J Cafe. -20 Fujimi-cho. 82-242-1234. u-Th 12PM-2AM, F-Sa 3AM. yen;1100-1700. A stylish cafe with a menu of lighter fare such as waffles, sandwiches, and crepes. The comfy red couches make it a place to hang out for a while, which locals do — note the late hours. It's just off the intersection of Heiwa-odori and Jizo-dori. (The circle 'J' logo is easily mistaken for an @ sign.)

  • Kurobutaya. _____. -5-14 Funairi-dori, Naka-ku. obashi-cho tram stop. 82-295-9510. 1:30AM-2PM, 5:30PM-11PM. xpect —2000 with a drink. Offers an English menu and a variety of small dishes. Perfect to have a taste of many things. Nice ''izakaya''-like ambiance with jazzy tunes and friendly staff.

  • Nanak. -2 Fukuromachi, Naka-ku. 82-243-7900. 0AM-3PM, 5PM-10PM. unch sets from ¥700, dinner from ¥2300. Probably the biggest of Hiroshima's many good Indian restaurants. Individual sets are available, but ordering as a group is the best value. It's easily recognized by the uniformed fellow in the window booth facing the street, hard at work on the day's curry and oblivious to the passersby. English menus are available.

  • Nono Budo. 8-6 Motomachi. ogo-Pacela Credo Building, 7th floor. 82-502-3340. 1AM-3PM, 5:30PM-9PM. yen;1575 for lunch (¥2100 for dinner); for ''nomih?dai'' (_________j(all you can drink), add another ¥1900. A non-smoking, healthy "viking" buffet style restaurant with a wide selection of curries, tempura, and other Japanese dishes, some of which are made with locally-grown and organic ingredients. They have a great selection of juices, tea, and coffee, too.

  • Roopali. 4-32 Wakakusa-cho, Higashi-ku. 82-264-1333. -Sa 11:30AM-2:30PM, 5PM-9:30PM; Su 11:30AM-9:30PM. ets from ¥2000. The best food in the under-developed area on the ''shinkansen'' side of JR Hiroshima station — coming out of the gates, head up to the main street and turn right. It's about three blocks away. A wide range of curries are on offer, and there is plenty to eat for vegetarians. The ''thali'' sets are good and filling. Comprehensive English menus are available, and it's kid-friendly to boot. If you're just arriving in Hiroshima on an empty stomach, you can't do much better than this.

  • Shichida Life Cafe. -3 Mikawa-cho, Naka-ku. 82-246-0700. -Th 11AM-10:30PM, F-Sa 11AM-11:30PM, Su 11AM-9:30PM. ttp://shichida.co.jp/english/. unch sets from ¥1200, dinner courses ¥2800. Offers numerous organic and vegetarian options, such as salads, sandwiches, veggie burger, rice and noodle dishes; also a good selection of teas, coffee, and other beverages.

  • Spicy Bar Lal's. -12 Tatemachi, Naka-ku. 82-504-6328. 1AM-2:30PM, 5PM-10PM. unch sets from ¥880, dinner sets from ¥1700. Indian and Nepali cuisine, with several good course dinners for individuals and pairs. Befitting the name, they're specific about their spiciness: you can choose a strength from 1-100. Basic English menus are available. It's just off Hon-dori, near the post office.

    Splurge

  • Kanawa (Oyster Boat). cross from the Otemachi Building, Naka-ku. 82-241-7416. ttp://www.kanawa.co.jp/. -Sa 11AM-2PM, 5PM-9PM; Su to 8:30PM. unch sets from ¥3100; dinner ¥7000-¥15,000, not including drinks. Docked just south of the Peace Park, this floating restaurant offers some of the tastiest oysters in Hiroshima, along with lovely traditional decor and nice river views (moreso at night). There's plenty of room aboard, but it does fill up, so reservations are suggested.

  • Shabuchin Shabu Shabu. -1-6 Kokutai-ji, Naka-ku. 82-246-7327. 1:30AM-2PM, 5PM-10PM. xpect to pay from ¥3,000-5,000, including drinks. Small, friendly, family run ''shabu shabu'' restaurant in the fashionable Jizo-dori area. They make their own sauces, and all the ingredients are fresh; dip fresh meat and vegetables in a hot sauce to lightly cook it before dipping it in a savory sauce to eat.

  • Sumojaya Takabayama. cross from Nobori-machi Park, Naka-ku. bisu-cho tram stop. 82-223-0400. ttp://takabayama.co.jp/menu/menu/menu041015e01.html. -Sa 11:30AM-1:30PM, 5PM-11PM. yen;3000 per person for dinner; lunch specials around ¥1000. ''Chanko nabe'', the food of sumo wrestlers, is a filling, fun, and healthy dish for anyone to enjoy, especially on colder days.

    Drink

    '''Nagarekawa''' has the highest concentration of bars in Hiroshima — the good, the bad, and the hostess — but there are a number of good, quiet wine bars on Hakushima-dori, and plenty of foreigner-friendly pubs clustered around the giant PARCO building [http://www.net-flyer.com/]. Yagenbori-dori is full of bars and clubs that are spread across floors of the various high-rise buildings.

    '''''Sake''''' enthusiasts should not miss the chance to visit the breweries of '''Saijo''', particularly during the annual festival in October — see above.

  • Barcos. -9 Yagenbori-dori, Naka-ku. anwa Building, 2nd floor. 82-246-5800. ttp://barco.ftw.jp/u4720.html. PM-5AM. All races and creeds are in attendance on an average night at Barcos — from the locals to the international community (and not just English teachers), from fashionistas and lunkheads to lost souls and chatterboxes. If you come on a weekend or a holiday, be prepared for a massive crowd. The DJs play a wide range of music, including soul, techno, R&B, and Latin, but they're happy to take requests.

  • Fukuya Beer Garden. -1 Matsubara-cho. ukuya Department Store, 11th floor. 82-568-3111. pen 6-10PM, varies by season. Many of the department stores have beer gardens on their roofs, and this is a nice one, directly across from JR Hiroshima Station — just you and a few hundred of your closest friends under the stars, sharing a terrific city view. Regardless of the crowds, though, there's plenty of room and the lines are well-managed. Admission varies from ¥1000 to ¥2500 by day of the week and season, which includes all you can drink, some desserts, and a ''ton'' of Western and Japanese fried food.

  • Kemby's. -9-1 Ote-machi, Naka-ku. 82-249-6201. ttp://www.kembys.com/k-top-e.html. u-Th 6PM-1AM, F-Sa 6PM-2AM. A big, friendly bar that's a favorite with locals for watching major sporting events. There's plenty of seating, and pool & darts as well. The English menu offers enough food (mostly Italian, Mexican) to make this a valid dinner spot (and Happy Hour is at dinner time, 6PM). The same folks run the smaller '''Kemby's AM''' [http://www.kembys.com/a-top-e.html] at 8-27 Nagarekawa, open 10PM-6AM daily.

  • Kulcha. -45 Fukuro-machi, Naka-ku. 82-543-5006. pens 6PM daily, closes late. A popular bar just off Hon-dori, frequented mainly by ex-pats. It's known for monthly theme parties and televised rugby and soccer games. If you're walking towards Parco from Rijo-dori, take a right at Andersens. Walk one block down (past Daiei supermarket) and turn left. The bar is on the right.

  • Mac Bar. -18 Nagarekawa-cho, Naka-ku. 82-243-0343. -Sa open 6PM, close varies — as late as 6AM. A friendly, venerable hole-in-the-wall owned by a chatty fellow with a ''massive'' collection of rock CDs. He's happy to take requests or just talk about music.

  • Molly Malone's. -20 Shintenchi, Naka-ku. eigeki Building, 4th floor. 82-244-2554. ttp://www.mollymalones.jp/. pen 11:30AM daily, close late. appy Hour M-Sa 5-7PM. Another popular foreigner hang-out. It's a reliable source for rugby and soccer games, but arrive early if you want a good viewing spot. The Irish food is just all right (¥1000-1800), but the desserts (¥500) are quite good with a beer.

  • Mugen 5610. -3 Yagenbori-dori, Naka-ku. tsuma Bulding, 2nd & 3rd floor. 82-240-7788. ttp://mugen5610.com/. 0PM-4AM. over is usually around ¥1200, which may include a drink or two. Local and traveling DJs spin quality dubstep, reggae, and drum 'n bass with the aid of a great sound system. The two floors are split between a big dance space and a more laid-back bar area.

  • Sacred Spirits. -3 Tate-machi, Naka-ku. pex Building, lower level. 82-240-0505. u-Th 7PM-2AM, F-Sa 7PM-5AM. over varies — usually ¥1000 or so, with a drink included. In business for years as '''Jamaica''', Sacred Spirits has a long, narrow basement space devoted to mostly decent, occasionally great dance music, at least until it's too crowded to move any more. Foreigners should be sure to bring an ID, as they do check. It's on a side street just off the Hon-dori arcade — there will inevitably be people milling around outside, despite the owners' best efforts at neighborly noise control.

  • The Shack. -10 Shintenchi, Naka-ku. akarazuka Building, 6th floor. 82-504-4170. ttp://www.kembys.com/s-top-e.html. u-Th 6PM-1AM, F-Sa 6PM-4AM. appy Hour 6PM, and again at midnight. Probably the most spacious bar in Hiroshima, with separate areas to chat around the bar, settle into restaurant-size tables, or play darts & pool. The bar food is all right, but the salad bar is the best deal if you're hungry. It's a popular meeting spot and a good place to start (but not finish) a night out.

    Sleep

    In August 1945, Yamaguchi was sent to Hiroshima on a business trip. With the job done, his co-workers left, but Yamaguchi realized that he had forgotten his personal seal for signing official documents, so he headed back into town to pick it up. That's when the atomic bomb was dropped on Hiroshima. Badly burned, deaf, and partially blind, he spent a night in the ruins of the city, and then found a railway station on the western edge of the city that was back in operation. He managed to catch a train home to Nagasaki, where — as Yamaguchi explained to his disbelieving boss what had happened in Hiroshima — the second atomic bomb was dropped.

    In 2009, the Japanese government certified Tsutomu Yamaguchi as the first known person to have been at ground zero of both atomic blasts.}}

    Budget

    For a short night before an early train, the cheapest digs in town will be to nap in the easy chairs at the two Internet cafes outside the south exit of JR Hiroshima Station (see Contact), or possibly a Nagarekawa karaoke box. You won't be the only one doing it, particularly on weekends.

  • K's House. -8-9 Matoba-cho, Minami-ku. 82-568-7244. ttp://kshouse.jp/hiroshima-e. yen;2500 for a 6 person dorm, ¥10,800 yen for room for 3 people with private bathroom. Part of the popular "K's House" hostel chain. No curfew or lockout, free wi-fi, computers with internet access available in the lobby for a small fee, and laundry facilities. Take the south exit from JR Hiroshima Station, then follow the tram tracks across the river. K's House is a blue fronted building.

  • Hana Hostel. -15 Kojin-machi, Minami-ku. minute walk from Hiroshima Station. 82-263-2980. ttp://hiroshimahostel.jp. -6 bed dorm ¥2700, private rooms from ¥3500 per person. A comfortable hostel close to JR Hiroshima station. Every private room has a bathroom or a toilet/washstand. They offer free wifi with your laptop (¥100 per 30 min for hostel computers), and rental bikes at ¥500 per day. There's no curfew or lockout, and they're willing to hold luggage early or after check-out.

  • J-Hoppers Trad Guesthouse. -16 Dobashi-cho, Naka-ku. obashi-cho tram stop. 82-233-1360. ttp://hiroshima.j-hoppers.com. bed dorm ¥2500, private rooms ¥3000 per person. A lively backpackers hostel with English speaking staff. Every private room is Japanese style. They also offer free wifi with your laptop (¥100 per 30 min for hostel computers) and rental bikes (¥500 per day), with no curfew or lockout and held-luggage services.

  • Business Ryokan Sansui. -16 Koami-cho, Naka-ku. oami-cho tram stop. 82-293-9051. ansui@ccv.ne.jp. ooms by reservation only, from ¥4200 single, ¥7500 double. Only a few minutes away from the Peace Park. Run by Kato-san and her family, this ''ryokan'' is quiet and clean, with breakfast available at ¥600. An excellent place to stay if you wish to practice your Japanese, meet and mingle with the locals. Kato-san closes the doors at midnight.

  • Capsule Inn Hiroshima. J_v_Z___C___L__. -6 Yagenbori. 82-248-0101. yen;2300 per capsule, ¥100 per hour for checking in early, and another ¥100 to hold passport/valuables. Available only for male visitors. In the Shintechi Entertainment District. On Aioi-dori, after M5 Kanayama-cho tram stop, turn left at the corner with a post office. Enter the sixth small street on the left. (There are actually two hotels on the both sides of the street.) Has a decent ''sento'' (hot bath) for guests.

  • Hiroshima Town Hotel. -20 Nishi Hiratuka-cho, Naka-ku. 82-546-0705. ttp://www.townhotel24.co.jp/shop/hiroshima.html. Sort of a hybrid of a business hotel and a love hotel, featuring a bewildering array of cheap rates from the 70 minute "shower" (¥2300) up to 20 hours (¥5900). That said, it is clean, convenient, and comfortable.

  • Hiroshima Youth Hostel. -13-6 Ushita-Shinmachi, Higashi-ku. 82-221-5343. yen;1930 per night. ttp://www.ttec.co.jp/~hyh/. Off the beaten path, but well worth the savings. Kitchen facilities, Internet, and a swimming pool (summer only) are included in the rate. They do have an 11PM curfew, though. Take Bus #30 from JR Hiroshima Station.

  • Ikawa Ryokan. -11 Dobashi-cho, Naka-ku. obashi-cho tram stop. 82-231-5058. kawa@go.enjoy.ne.jp. ooms ¥5775-4725 single with/without bath, ¥9450-8400 double. Communal bath is available. Plain but serviceable ''ryokan'' with Japanese and Western-style rooms.

  • Minshuku Ikedaya. -36 Dobashi-cho, Naka-ku. obashi-cho tram stop. 82-231-3329. ingle rooms with/without bath from ¥4200 to ¥5775; double rooms from ¥7350 to ¥9450. The rooms at this ''minshuku'' are clean, bright, and pleasant. The staff speak enough English to get you checked in, although you may not see a trace of them afterward.

    Mid-range

  • Chisun Hotel Hiroshima. 4-7 Nobori-cho, Naka-ku. 82-511-1333. ttp://www.solarehotels.com/english/chisun/hotel-hiroshima/guestroom/detail.html. conomy to deluxe single rooms for one person range from ¥7500-9500, including "ladies-only" rooms, while a variety of twin rooms cost ¥13-14,000. Bright, new, small rooms in a good location for exploring the city, right outside the Kanayama-cho tram stop. Buffet breakfast is available for ¥1200.

  • Comfort Inn Hiroshima. R___t_H_[_g_z_e___L__. -17 Komachi, Naka-ku. huden-mae tram stop. 82-541-5555. ttp://www.comfortinn.com/hotel-hiroshima-japan-JP027. ooms from ¥5775 single, ¥8400 double. A branch of the American hotel chain, offering Western-style rooms with plenty of business amenities not far from the Peace Park.

  • Dormy Inn. -18 Komachi, Naka-ku. huden-mae tram stop. 82-240-1177. ttp://www.hotespa.net/hotels/hiroshima/. ooms from ¥7500 single, ¥9750 double. Centrally located along Heiwa Odori, this is a comfortable and friendly full-service hotel with Western-style rooms, free laundry facilities, bike rentals, and a great ''sento'' bath. There's a complimentary taxi service from JR Hiroshima Station with advance reservation.

  • Hiroshima Grand Intelligent Hotel. -4 Kyobashi-cho, Minami-ku. 82-263-5111. ooms from ¥6300 single, ¥10,000 double. ttp://www.intelligent-hotel.co.jp/en/. A tall, pleasant Western-style hotel on the other side of the Ekimae bridge from JR Hiroshima Station, with a suitably grand lobby and comparatively modest guest rooms. Breakfast is served for ¥1350 buffet, ¥600 toast set. LAN Internet access is available in every room.

  • Hiroshima Intelligent Hotel Annex. -27 Inari-machi, Minami-ku. 82-263-7878. ooms from ¥6300 single, ¥10,000 double. Just down the street from the Grand, with comparable facilities.

  • Toyoko Inn Heiwa Odori. -15 Tanaka-cho, Naka-ku. 82-504-1045. ttp://www.toyoko-inn.com/e_hotel/00083/. ooms from ¥6090 single, ¥8190 double. An affordable business hotel on Heiwa Odori, within walking distance of the Peace Park. Also has a small shuttle from JR Hiroshima Station. There are three Toyoko Inns in Hiroshima, but this one is the most centrally located.

  • Via Inn. 82-264-5489. ttp://hiroshima.viainn.com. ooms from ¥6195. A tall business hotel with tiny rooms but a fair number of amenities, including Internet access in the lobby. It's tucked away behind the Hiroshima Post Office, outside the south exit of JR Hiroshima Station. Head between the coffee shop and the convenience store to find the front desk.

    Splurge

  • Aioi Ryokan. -3-14 Ote-machi, Naka-ku. 82-247-9331. ooms with private baths from ¥21,000 single, ¥37,800 double. The closest traditional Japanese accommodations to the Peace Park, although only the upper floors have a view. Breakfast and dinner are included in the rate, and their versatile kitchen earns rave reviews for dishes high and low on the elegance scale. All of their tastefully appointed rooms have private baths, but there are communal baths on the seventh floor with a memorable view of the A-Bomb Dome.

  • ANA Crowne Plaza Hiroshima. -20 Naka-machi, Naka-ku. ukuro-machi tram stop. 82-241-1111. ttp://www.anacrowneplaza-hiroshima.jp/en/. ooms ¥16-20,000 single, ¥24-33,000 twin. Great location near the Peace Park, with multiple restaurants, a health club, free Internet, and all the amenities the price would suggest.

  • Hotel Granvia. -5 Matsubara-cho, Minami-ku. 82-262-1111. ttp://www.hgh.co.jp/english/. Located right outside the ''shinkansen'' gates (north exit) of JR Hiroshima Station, this will be the most convenient hotel for any late-arriving travelers. The cheapest single rooms with no meals (¥7600) aren't much more than an average business hotel, but spending time at the elegant lounge and restaurant — and splurging on a luxury twin room with a terrific view (¥22,000) — will raise the price tag.

  • Hotel Sunroute Hiroshima. -3-1 Ote-machi, Naka-ku. 82-249-3600. ttp://www.sunroute.jp/HotelInfoSVE. ooms from ¥8925 single, ¥16,800 twin. Just off Heiwa-odori, the top floors of this tall, modern hotel offer the best views of the Peace Park other than the Rihga Royal (below). There are two restaurants (Italian and Japanese) on-site. The amenities are basic (free Internet), but the location is excellent.

  • Rihga Royal Hiroshima. -78 Motomachi, Naka-ku. 82-502-1121. ttp://www.rihga.com/hiroshima. ooms start from ¥16,170 single and ¥23,100 double. Found a suitcase full of money? Royal suites clock in at a mere ¥346,500. Overlooking the Peace Park, this luxury hotel is also the tallest building in Hiroshima. There are several restaurants and lounges on premises, and a massive swimming pool/sauna for a fee (¥3150 adults, ¥1575 kids). Baseball fans take note: this is where visiting teams stay when they're in town, so the lobby is a good place to pick up autographs.

    Contact

  • <listing name="Aprecio" alt="" directions="" address="10-3 Matsubara-cho" phone="082-506-1323" email="" fax="" url="http://www.aprecio.co.jp/hiroshima_ekimae/" hours="24 hours" price="¥300 for membership; ¥180 first 30 minutes, and ¥70 every 10 minutes thereafter"> An elegant net cafe with a wide variety of free drinks, ice cream and hot soup included in the price of admission. There's even a pool table and darts (and private showers towards the back). It's on the other side of the street from the south exit of JR Hiroshima Station, on the fifth floor of the building next to Fukuya and directly across the street from the post office.</listing>
  • <listing name="Futaba@Cafe" alt="" address="2-22 Matsubara-cho" directions="" phone="082-568-4792" email="" fax="" url="http://www.futabatosho.co.jp/net_cafe/" hours="24 hours" price="¥105 for membership; ¥405 first 60 minutes, then ¥94 every 15 minutes thereafter"> Free drinks and soft-serve ice cream are included in the price. Just ask for a "net open seat" (or a "game open seat" to include a PlayStation). Right next to JR Hiroshima Station — on the sixth floor of the GIGA/Futaba Building immediately to your left as you walk out of the station (south exit). </listing>
  • <listing name="Futaba@Cafe" alt="" directions="" address="2-2-33 Kamiya-cho" phone="082-542-5455" email="" fax="" url="http://www.futabatosho.co.jp/net_cafe/" hours="24 hours" price=""> Same deal as above, but closer to the Peace Park (on Hon-dori) in the Futaba Tosho Building, first floor.</listing>
  • <listing name="Global Lounge" alt="" address="1-5-17 Kamiya-cho, Naka-ku" directions="" phone="082-244-8145" email="" fax="" url="http://www.hiroshima-no1.com/lounge-eng.html" hours="M-Th 12PM-9PM, F-Sa 12PM-11PM" price=""> Part of a hodge-podge of foreigner-centric businesses — Outsider is a language school, Book Nook sells used books (albeit with a sorry selection), and the Global Lounge offers Internet access (¥200 for 15 min) and a meeting space. Coffee, tea, and soft drinks (¥200) are served, with beer and cocktails on Friday and Saturday nights.</listing>
  • <listing name="Hiroshima International Center" alt="" address="8-18 Naka-machi" directions="Crystal Plaza Building, 6th floor" phone="082-541-3777" email="" fax="" url="http://hiroshima-ic.or.jp/hice" hours="Tu-Sa 9AM-8:30PM, Su 9:30AM-6PM" price="Entry and basic facilities are free; some events require membership or a small fee"> The HIC offers an English reference library and "friendship lounge" with books, newspapers, and local info. For long-term visitors, there are free Japanese language lessons, cultural events (such as the Saturday Salons), and help with residency issues. Take the tram or bus to the Fukuro-machi stop.</listing>
  • Stay safe

    Hiroshima has a rough reputation among Japanese people from other cities, thanks largely to the ''yakuza'' movies that were filmed in town. In reality, though, it's much safer than any large Western city. As with most places in Japan, petty theft is virtually non-existent. Nagarekawa, the nightlife district, does have its share of prostitutes, sex clubs, and rip-off hostess bars, but to no greater extent than Tokyo or Osaka.

    There have been a few surprise police raids on bars that offer dancing after 1AM, in accordance with a semi-obscure local law about public immorality that Hiroshima occasionally feels compelled to enforce — probably in order to catch people who are in the country illegally. Japanese citizens are generally allowed to leave right away, but foreigners have been made to stand in line to have their paperwork checked. If you find yourself in one of these situations, just stay calm, show the police your passport, and you'll eventually be allowed to leave without any trouble.

    Cope

    Hiroshima is a safe and friendly city, well-accustomed to foreign visitors. The average English level among Hiroshima residents is relatively high for a Japanese city, particularly around the Peace Park. Directions to the major sights are very clearly sign-posted in English throughout the city.

    The Peace Memorial Park is a very popular school trip destination for Japanese students, and you may be accosted by kids working on school projects, asking you (in halting English) where you're from, what your name is, or whatever else their teacher has assigned them to ask. They travel in packs, so you should be able to see them coming from a distance and avoid (or engage) accordingly.

    As mentioned above, visiting the sights related to the atomic bomb can be an '''intense experience'''. If you only have one day set aside for Hiroshima, you'll naturally wind up spending most of it at the atomic bomb memorials. For your own peace of mind, though, try to set aside time to relax and reflect in other parts of the city, such as '''Chuo-koen''' or '''Shukkeien''' (see above), both of which are only a short walk from the Peace Park.

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    Get out

  • Miyajima is an easy day-trip from Hiroshima — about an hour away by a combination of tram and then a short ferry ride. It's one of the Three Great Views in Japan and has a UNESCO World Heritage Site - Itsukushima Shrine and the famous floating torii gate. It also offers some terrific hiking opportunities.
  • A longer ferry ride from Hiroshima Port (which could be reached by tram) could take you to Matsuyama for a day at the famed '''Dogo Onsen''' hot springs.
  • Iwakuni, about 45 minutes away by train, features the '''Kintai-kyo''' samurai bridge and a scenic castle reconstruction - as well as a U.S. Marine Corps Air Station.
  • Onomichi, a hillside town of temples and Japanese novelists, 75 minutes away by train.
  • Okayama is the other major transit hub for the region, about 45 minutes by shinkansen, and it offers access to the museums and canal of Kurashiki.
  • '''Aki no Kofuji'''. Off the beaten track, old style Japanese village, a great hike and wonderful views.
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