'''Panaji''' is the capital city of the tiny state of Goa in India. It has its own charm, a river flowing along one side of the city, some areas which are low-rise and red-roofed, and even a Latin Quarter at the eastern end of town. Increasingly, it is shaping itself as a centre where cultures (many from across the globe, and from diverse areas of India too) meet and creativity flourishes.
Get in
By Air
The nearest airport is at Dabolim, 30 km away.
By Rail
The nearest railway station is '''Karmali (IR station code : KRMI)''', about 10 km to the east, but many express trains do not halt there. A more important railhead is Madgaon Junction, 35 km to the south, being the main junction on the Konkan Railway all trains stop here.
From the railway station, taxis, rickshaws and buses go to Panaji, but if you are carrying only a backpack, motorcycle taxis are a bargain, plus you get to ride on the pillion seat! Be sure to fix fares before the ride.
If you are on a tight budget, and carrying little baggage, you could take the local bus. To get to the bus stop, get out of the Karmali station, a short climb and across the road is the bus stop. Wait across the road for busses going towards Panjim. There is no sign board marking the Bus stop.
The Konkan Railway Corporation runs regular trains from as far as Bhavnagar in the state of Gujarat in the north to Ernakulum in Kerala State in the south. It also connects with the Indian Railway system to get passengers from every corner of the country. You can make reservations online, or track status of tickets at [http://www.irctc.co.in/] You would be required to register first.
The classes available for travel are Second class sitting (gets extremely crowded and is not recommended for the overnight journey) Sleeper class (Non Air conditioned), Aircon sleeper with 2-Tier bunk beds, Air Con Sleeper 3-Tier, Aircon Chair car ( Only on the Jan Shatabdi express), First Class and Aircon First Class.
Travel by the sleeper if you enjoy the wind in your hair. The Airconditioned coaches are cleaner, quieter, and relatively comfortable. Food is available on most trains from an attached pantry car, though alcohol and smoking is prohibited.
The Konkan Railway line between Panvel in New Bombay to Ernakulum in Kerala, passes through some of the most scenic routes in the country. The railway line comprises of a single track along most of the route, hence trains have to get into a siding to allow passenger and goods trains moving in the opposite direction to pass. The entire system is precisely timed to enable very short waiting times during train crossings. As the railway was built in some of the most difficult terrain in the world. It comprises over 2000 bridges and 92 tunnels. it is still plagued with sinking soil, land slides, and washaways specially during the monsoon months so be prepared for delays due to events usually beyond the control of the Railways. The completion of this project was a huge achievement for the Konkan Railway, and many of the Engineers initially involved with the project have been absorbed by other Major Railways in Europe and other countries.
You can track the movement of trains online to know their status.
[http://www.konkanrailway.com/website/visual/train_position.html]
By bus
Panaji is connected with the state of Karnataka to the south and Maharashtra to the north by winding highways.
A wide range of busses are available. The Non Airconditioned, State transport bus, that though cheap is an interesting way to travel, if you dont mind the discomfort of a rattling bus body, ridgid seats, over crowding and stopping at umpteen villages and bus depots along the route. You could also take a reserved ticket, which assures you of a seat, though is no protection against over crowding. Locals usually share seats. The State Transport corporations, also have semi luxury and luxury busses. Luxury meaning the seats are padded and recline.
The major state transport corporations operating in Goa are the Kadamba Transport Corporation (KTC), from Goa, Maharashtra State Road Transport Corporation (MSRTC), from Maharashtra, and the Karnataka State Road Transport from Karnataka.
All the State Transport busses, usually begin and terminate at the Kadamba bus stand at Panaji. Bookings, time tables etc. can be had here.
Dozens of semi luxury and luxury busses also connect Panaji with Mumbai, Pune, Mangalore, Bangalore, and Hyderabad. A relatively comfortable option is the Air conditioned Volvo coaches that operate towards the later hours. Find out prices before you purchase a ticket, as it is not uncommon to find that your neighbour on the bus has paid a much higher or lower price for the ticket. Many travel agents have their offices in the building adjacent to the Kadamba bus stand.
A famous romantic Bollywood film "Bombay to Goa" starring the Indian super star Amitabh Bachchan, was based on this bus journey.
All private busses leave from the bus stand at the beginning of the Mandovi bridge. Bus departures start daily from 4:00 pm and go on till almost 10:00 p.m. when the last Volvo coaches leave.
On the first floor of the KTC Bus stand at Panaji is the Konkan Railway ticketing office, you can make or cancel all Indian Railway tickets here. A Rs. 10/- service fee is levied on each transaction, which is well worth it, as it saves you making a trip to Karmali, Thivim or Madgaon station to do ticketing work. The ticketing office is Air conditioned, has seats, and issues tokens, so you dont have to stand in a queue awaiting your turn. The counter is open from 8:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. on week days.
By car
NH-17 (National Highway-17) passes through Panaji. (This is the route buses will take while coming down from Bombay). The route is scenic, and roads in good condition compared with other routes, but narrow and risky along part of the journey, so driving down is not recommended unless you are used to Indian roads.
A detour from NH-17 towards Kolhapur joins you to the Expressway and further on to the Mumbai Pune Expressway. Take this route if you intend including Lonavala, Khandala or Pune on your itinerary. The expressway is also faster and safer, though the additional distance will not save you much time.
NH-4A connects to the NH-17 from Panaji. This is the main highway connecting Goa with the state of Karnataka. Be prepared for a rattling travel, as the road condition has deteriorated beyond repair on a 20 kms stretch near Anmod, as soon as you enter Karnataka. The Government of Karnataka should be condemned in strongest words for neglecting this important tourist link, which connects Goa with world heritage sites at Badami, Pattadkal and Hampi. This road is one of the reasons why Karnataka lost the Tata Nano project to Gujarat, as its bad condition almost deprived Dharwad of the nearest port facility.Mn.
[http://www.travelmarg.com/distances/from-Panaji For a list of distances from many cities in India from Panaji click here]
Get around
See
Don't miss out on the '''old city'''.
See the '''islands''' that are just across the river. It only takes a couple of minutes to cross on the car ferry, and on the other side there are unpopulated fields of high marsh grass, sweeping views and utter peacefulness.
To access the islands go to Ribandar, on the road to Old Goa, and take the ferry at Ribandar going to Chorao. Or go further down, just past the Goa Institute of Management and take the other Ferry. The ferry service is free to passengers, though cars, motorcycles and other vehicles pay a small fee. The Islands can also be accessed from the Ferry crossing at Old Goa, behind the Church Complex, also a calm spot for a bit of fishing.
Miramar Beach - A lovely golden beach of soft sand girdled with palm trees. The main beach outside of state-capital Panaji. The usual hangout for urbanites from Panjim and around, and also for 'desi' (domestic, Indian) tourists visiting the region. Try the fast-food of both Goan origin.
''D'Silva's'', serves delicious authentic Goan snacks. Located opposite the childrens park, just past the roundabout. The place is obscure and easy to miss out.
For other Indian snacks, Chaat (Bhel Puri) and Mid-East shwarma-based food go a little ahead on the beachside stalls.
Cafe Coffee Day is a hip hang out for the younger set.
Nice playground for kids, including a giant fish made of cement.
Dona Paula A beach outside Panaji and beyond Miramar. This is where so many Bollywood (Hindi) films have been shot. No wonder it is hyped up among Hindi film audiences. Scenic. In fair weather, a boat service connects this point with Vasco da Gama.
Do
'''Casino Caravela''', Renaissance Goa Resort, Varca Village, Salcette, Goa 403721 (''this is the starting point for the cruise''), ''+91 832'' 745-200 (''FAX - +91 832 745-225''). India's only legal casino (on board a yacht!) offers a combination of sightseeing and gaming - American Roulette, Black Jack, Rummy, Stud Poker, Baccarat, Pontoon and Flash. Rs. 900 (''For entry and buffet. Does not include casino chips. Other packages that do are available. '')
'''Dive Goa'''
'''Barracuda Diving'''
'''Bird Watching ''', The Dr. Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary is located on the island of Chorao and can be easily accessed from Panjim. Take a bus, or drive down the causeway along the river Mandovi towards Old Goa. A little after the turn at Ribandar, take a ferry across the river to reach the Bird Sanctuary. The best time to spot birds is between October and March, when many species of migratory birds visit the sanctuary from as far as Siberia. Don't forget to bring along some mosquito repellent, as the marshy land and mangrove forests have a lot of mosquitoes.
Watch the latest Bollywood flicks at the INOX theatre at Panjim.
Go for a short boat ride on one of the many "Cruise" boats, that sail up and down the river, with loud music, and frantically dancing revellers. Located beside the Captain of Ports jetty on the Mandovi river at Panjim. The Santa Monica is the oldest and best known of the lot, though the others are as good. Cruises start from around Sunset. There is also a floating restaurant, on the same pier.
Catch up with plays, dramas and Musicals at the open air theatre at the Kala Academy in Campal.
Visit the Central Library, the oldest public library in India, founded in 1832, and housing a vast collection of books, some printed almost half a century ago.
Relax under a palm tree on Miramar beach, feel the sea breeze in your hair and watch the surf on the waves. Watch the many iron ore barges cruise lazily down the river towards the Arabian sea, in a typical "Socegad" Goan manner.
Buy
Cashew Nuts of various varieties, spiced, roasted and in a host of different flavours.
The famed Goan Cashew Liquor, and port wines.
Spicy Goa Sausages "Choricao", made of pickled dried Pork.
Goan Handicrafts shell and terracotta ware.
Hotel Mandovi packs in a surprising amount of interesting reading material, specially books related to Goa, in its limited space.
Broadway Book Centre boasts of the "largest bookshop in Goa" (approx 5000 square feet) and also some good prices.
'''Singbal Bookstall''', tel. 2425747. Near the Panjim Church
'''Book World''', tel. 2421857.
'''Jeevit Bookshop''', tel. 2438638. Religious books.
'''Velha Goa Galeria''' and '''De Goa Ceramics''', for local hand-painted ceramics.
'''18th June Road Night Market'''
Eat
Some of the best food in the world is found in this calm and breezy capital city. Goan Chef's have since generations, graced many a royal kitchen in Europe and have been practicing their culinary skills on some of the grandest cruise ships in the world.
Try out the native '''Vindaloo curry''' with fish or chicken. It's hot!
Godinho's and George Bar and Restaurant (near Municipal Gardens) serve authentic Vindaloo, Sorpatel, Cafreal and Goan Sea food dishes.
Kamats, situated opposite the Municipal Garden serves good Goan Vegetarian dishes. Famous for their vegetarian Thaali (A stainless steel tray with Rice, Puris, various types of Daals, Vegetables served in small steel bowls)
Cafe Real, near the Azad maidan serves excellent vegetarian snacks. Piping hot, Bhaaji pao (Curried vegetables with local Goan Bread), Crisp Hot Kandea Bojjea (batter fried Onions), Mirchi Bojjea (Batter fried Green Peppers that are not half as hot as you would have imagined) over a hot cup of tea shouldn't be missed.
Drink
There are lots of places in Goa where one can find a bar and restaurant. There's one around every corner of every road. Visitors arriving in Goa during the very early hours, stand a better chance of getting a tipple than a cuppa.
Many small village bars also serve authentic Goan fare. Some of the best and freshest Fish Curry and Rice and fried Fish, squid, mussels, crabs etc can be had here. You can be sure it is authentic Goan fare as few tourists visit these places. Most of these bars offer a quiet laid back atmosphere to sip your drink and contemplate, unless ofcourse a Cricket match is on television.
Sleep
Panjim Inn is a heritage hotel(one of the best in panjim) room prices are upwards of 1600/night. available only on advance booking.
A Pousada Guest House on Luis de Menezes Rd. Telephone: (083) 2422618 Mobile: 09822175680 Doubles are 300-500 Rs per night. This is a small guest house so best to book ahead.
There is a wide choice of hotels to stay in, in and around Panjim. The week between Christmas and New Year however tends to be very crowded, as in the rest of Goa.
Contact
Cybercafes around Panjim:
Yeshwant Anant Kamat Tarcar, Ground Floor, John Paul Building, Panjim 403001 Ph 2426537
E-Com Synergies G-2 Unitech City Centre, Panjim 403001 5641305
Magsons Network (P) Ltd, 2 Ground Floor, Maganlal Sadan, Dada Vaidya Rd, Panjim 403001
Magsons Network (P) Ltd 707, DB Marg 403012 Ph 2463700
Cybercafes around Miramar:
M/s SharpShooters.Net, Opp: Maruthi True Value, D.B.Marg, Miramar 403001 Alto Porvorim:
Kool Dude Cyber Cafe, H.No.860/3, Alto Porvorim, Bardez 403521 Ph 2415502
Shaileshdotcom, Shop No.14, New Housing Board Market Com 403521 2412376
Arte D Ouro Cell World, Nova Cidade Building Complex, S-1, Porvorim 403521 Ph 2276790
Get out
Dona Paula - A beach town outside Panaji and beyond Miramar. This is where so many Bollywood (Hindi) films have been shot. No wonder it is hyped up among Hindi film audiences. Scenic. In fair weather, a boat service connects this point with Vasco da Gama.