'''Bishkek''' (_A_y___{_u_{, ??????) (population in 2005 approx. 900,000) is the capital and the largest city of the Kyrgyz Republic (Kyrgyzstan).

Understand

Bishkek is a relatively new city set along the Tien Shan mountains in the Chui Valley. It is a relatively new city and has little in the way of historical sites, but is a great base for trips to the mountains, Issyk Kul lake and trekking to the south. Bishkek is, however, an interesting example of a planned city; laid on a grid with wide boulevards flanked by irrigation canals and large trees, buildings with marble facades, and Soviet-style apartment complexes. Many young travelers find Bishkek's nightlife a delight and the people are friendly and very hospitable. Bishkek is a city of largely young people that hang out in parks or small cafes.

Get in

By plane

Bishkek's Manas International Airport (IATA: FRU) [http://www.airport.kg/eng/index.html] is a forty minute drive from the city center. Most of the international flights depart and arrive at very early hours of the morning.

You can connect to many cities of the world with daily flights on Aeroflot to Moscow's Sheremyetevo Airport and on Turkish Airlines to Ataturk International Airport in Istanbul. Aeroflot now uses new Airbus 320 aircraft (instead of the older and slightly cramped Tu-154) making the five-hour flight much more comfortable. Additional flights operate during the summer months. bmi flies four days a week from London Heathrow with a fuel stop in Almaty, Kazakhstan. It is nearly an 11-hour flight, and you are not allowed to leave the plane during the fuel stop. Iran Aseman Airlines flies weekly to Mashad, Iran.

You can find additional flights on local carriers to the following cities:

  • Urumqi, China
  • Yekaterinburg, Russia
  • Dushanbe, Tajikistan
  • Tashkent, Uzbekistan
  • Novosibirsk, Russia
  • Dubai, UAE
  • There are also occasional charter flights to Seoul, New Delhi, Sharjah, and Kabul.

    Kyrgyzstan Airlines operates flights to the following domestic locations:

  • Osh
  • Kerben
  • Kazarman
  • Beware that Kyrgyz airlines do not operate sufficiently on western standards, and all of them are banned from flying over or to the European Union. As there is no state of the art landing system, fog disrupts flights. Be prepared for longer delays in winter.

    Residents of the US and most European countries can purchase on arrival a 30-day visa at the airport for US$35. While there are occasional reports of requests for bribes or hassling of passengers, it is very rare. Airport personnel are generally formal and sometimes hospitable. There is an ATM is the basement of the airport, and several small cafes are open around the clock.

    Manas International is also home to a US Air Force Base that provides logistics support to the forces in Afghanistan. You can see American fuel tankers and cargo jets sitting alongside old Soviet passenger jets.

    '''Note''': There are many aggressive "unofficial" taxi drivers awaiting all incoming flights. The normal rate charged by the major taxi companies to the city center is 350 soms (~$9-10), so you should attempt to bargain for a similar rate if you choose to take one of these taxis. Be very cautious with "unofficial" taxis, there have been robberies.

    By train

    There is a twice-weekly train service to and from Moscow, called the "Kirgizia" with two days operated by the Kyrgyz railways, and the other two by the Russian railways. The train has 2- and 4-berth sleepers and a restaurant car.

    In addition, there is a service that goes to and from Balykchy on the western edge of the Issyk-Kul lake. Although slow and with minimal accommodation, it is one of the most scenic rail trips in Eurasia, sneaking through a thin mountainous alpine pass to the lake.

    By car and bus

    Bishkek is approximately a 3-1/2 hour drive from Almaty, Kazakhstan along a relatively good highway. There are also additional long distance road connections to Taraz, Kazakhstan (leading to Shymkent & Tashkent, Uzbekistan).

    You can also share or rent an entire taxi from Almaty. Both KLM and Lufthansa offer bus service from the Almaty airport to Bishkek and back again so travelers can meet their early morning flights. The normal price for a seat in a shared taxi is approximately 500 som.

    Truly adventuresome travelers may want to attempt to get to Bishkek via the Chinese/Kyrgyz frontier crossing over the Torugart Pass. The pass connects Kashgar via an important route that runs along what was once the ancient Silk Road, linking Western China with the heart of Central Asia. The pass tops off at a height of 12,310 feet (3,752 meters) and is known as one of the most frustrating passes in Central Asia, as both sides can be closed for holidays, early snowfall, or just for seemingly random reasons. Only attempt this route if you have time and your patience can handle it.

    Get around

    There are several options for transportation in Bishkek. Generally tourists use the local taxi services which can be reached through several numbers: 150 Euro (Evro) Taxi, 152 Super Taxi [http://www.dos.kg/eng-152-tariffs-0-0.html], 156 Express Taxi and 188 Salam Taxi, Before 10PM most runs in the city are 75 som and after 100 and 200 som.

    There are hundreds of mini-buses (marshrutkas) that ply all parts of the city. They generally cost 5 som for inner-city routes and 7-10 som for longer routes. Ask a local which mini-bus number you should take or buy a map of mini-bus routes at tourist venues. Major stops are near the Tsum department store and Philharmonia. There is also an aging system of electric trolleybuses that run along the major streets for 3 som each.

    See

  • '''Ala-Too Square''' - The main city square is the site of frequent political demonstrations and regular festivals. At night many vendors set up photograph and karaoke booths, however travelers should avoid visiting the square after dark. There is also a military monument with an hourly changing of guards.
  • '''National Historical Museum''' - This museum sits between Ala-Too Square and the Parliament building. On the south side is an enormous statue of Lenin that was moved from the north side of the building after the Soviet Era. The bottom story of this three floor museum displays seasonal exhibits, while the second highlights Soviet-era achievements during the Communist Era. The top floor showcases the history and culture of the Kyrgyz people.
  • '''Panfilov Park''' - While this park may be in need upkeep and renovation, it's a great look into the past when Kyrgyzstan was a part of the Soviet Union. Beware that few of the rides have any safety mechanisms, and the safety mechanisms they may appear to have are probably not functional. The ferris wheel offers a great view of the greater city.
  • '''Osh Bazaar''' - If you're looking for a fresh sheep's head, locally made Korean picked salad, shashlik or any other type of Kyrgyz snack, this is the city's best known food bazaar. There are hundreds of products to choose from, especially in the spring and summer months when produce is fresh from farms in the outskirts of town. Like any crowded space, be wary of pick-pockets; however visiting the Osh Bazaar is a most and rewarding trip.
  • Learn

    Bishkek is a cheap place to learn Russian (or Kyrgyz). A private 1 1/2 hour lesson with a native Russian speaker should cost between $5-7. Courses are also available at the American University of Central Asia [http://www.auca.kg/] and the Kyrgyz-Russian-Slavic University[http://www.krsu.edu.kg/].

    There is also a private school that caters to individual learning: The London School in Bishkek [http://www.tlsbi.com]. This school offers Russian and Kyrgyz to anyone at anytime of the year for as little as 120 soms/hr. During the warmer months they are often full so book in advance.

    Work

    A number of international organizations have offices in Bishkek, however most employees are recruited from abroad. If you speak Russian, there might be occasional opportunities to find temporary or long-term work. There are also a number of English language schools that will employ native English speakers.

    Buy

    If you want to fit in with the locals, be sure to get one of the stylish Kyrgyz felt hats (kalpaks) worn mainly by men. You can also get textiles such as traditional patterned carpets (shyrdaks), which are well-made but can be expensive. For cheap souvenirs, avoid the Tsum department store and head directly for the Osh Bazaar. You may have to dig around the stalls as there isn't as much variety or quality as in Tsum, but the prices can be far cheaper if you put your bargaining skills to the test.

    Eat

    A typical Kyrgyz meal will feature starchy foods like bread, rice, and potatoes, usually centered around some sort of meat, usually lamb, mutton or beef or even sometimes horse meat. Some of the more popular staples are "plov", a Central Asian dish consisting of a bed of rice cooked in oil, topped with lamb or mutton, shredded carrots, and occasionally whole garlic cloves. Shashlyk, a marinated and grilled lamb, mutton or beef kebab, is popular all over the former Soviet Union and is typically eaten with bread, raw onion slices, a voluminous amount of vodka. Samsas, much like the Indian samosa, are available at roadside stands across the city. Usually these are cooked in a tandoor oven as a puff-baked pastry and filled with onions, mutton and mutton fat.

    The national dish of Kyrgyzstan is called besh barmak (literally: five fingers, because the dish is eaten with one's hands). It usually consists of horse meat, although sometimes mutton or beef is substituted in, that has been boiled and served mixed with homemade noodles. A sheep's head is usually served along side it. If you can land an invitation to a wedding in Bishkek, you'll most likely get a chance to eat besh barmak, although you can also find it are traditional restaurants.

    Russian dishes are also fairly ubiquitous in Bishkek because of the large number of ethnic Russians who still live in the city. There are a also growing number of restaurants and cafes catering to more varied tastes.

    Budget

    There are hundreds of stands that sell "gamburgers", a local adaptation to the American hamburger but really share little in common. They are sliced doner kebab-style meat served on a bun with cole-slaw, cucumber, mayonnaise, ketchup, and some fries. They usually cost around 20 som. One of the most popular gamburger stands in Bishkek is at the corner of Sovietskaya and Kievskaya, across the street from the main post office. It's a popular area for local students to pick up a cheap meal and they even serve the rare chicken hamburger.

    Throughout the city are a lot of street-side vendors selling samsis, which is a staple of most locals' lunch. You can usually find a row of shashlyk grills inside any bazaar or just outside any chaykhana (teahouse).

    For some pre-independence nostalgia, try the cafeterias of government ministries and universities. For about a dollar you can experience what it was (and still is) like to eat Soviet-style cafeteria food.

    Cheap

  • '''Fakir''' - (Behind Bishkek City shopping mall) Provides authentic and safe traditional Kyrgyz food and is very popular with locals. Good sized portions and excellent prices. Open for lunch and dinner. Beer and non-smoking areas available. (80-160 som)
  • '''Faiza''' - (Jibek Jolu) Excellent local food frequented by locals. Great samsas and laghman (noodles). Dirt cheap. (80-160 som)
  • Mid-range

  • '''Cafe Stari Edgar''' - Located behind the Russian Drama Theatre; this is one of the most popular places with the expat crowd. In the summer, there is ample outdoor seating and in the winter, the bomb-shelter style building (decorated in a unique nautical motif, interesting considering the landlocked location of Kyrgyzstan!) presents Bishkek's most original dining venue. The food tends to be average, but the house band has entertained generations of visitors.
  • '''Aria''' - One block south of Vefa Center, this Iranian-owned restaurant serves good Iranian and Turkish dishes while also offering Russian fare. The multi-flavored kalyan-hookahs attract a varied, hipster-like crowd.
  • '''Dolce Vita Pizza''' - (on Akhunbaeva, to the east of Manas, about one block) Possibly the best pizza available in Bishkek. Its thin crust is baked in an open-fire oven; there is also a whole range of Italian dishes and pastas. (~250-380 som)
  • '''Doka Pizza''' - (corner of Akhunbaeva and Sovietskaya) Possibly the most popular restaurant in Bishkek. Regular entertainment and a menu featuring other dishes than pizza; shashlyk is also good here. Brush up on your Russian or Kyrgyz language skills as there is no menu in English (~210-300 som)
  • '''Metro Pub''' - (Chui and Turizbekova) This is where international aid workers, embassy staff, mining personnel, and Manas Airport contractors from all come together to down a pint and grab a decent meal. The staff are also quite popular and used to back and forth flirting between themselves and the expat patrons. Especially crowded on St. Patrick's Day and Halloween. (~210-300 som)
  • '''Shao Lin''' - (Jibek Jolu and Isanova) One of the best known Chinese restaurants in Bishkek. The quality is up to most western standards, but tends to still be a little oily. The soups are especially large - better to be shared. (~210-300 som)
  • '''Watari''' (corner of Frunze & Schevchenko, near the Grand Hotel) Japanese cafe with good vegetarian options. Healthy and delicious - a good break from the standard Bishkek food. (~210-300 som)
  • Splurge

  • '''Restaurant Adriatico''' - (Chuy and Togolok Moldo) Owned by an Italian who imported his own Italian chef. The handmade mozzarella and homemade gelato are well worth the higher price. (~640-850 som)
  • '''Four Seasons Restuarant''' - (across from the Hyatt) Delicious food with a large selection of European and Asian cuisine. Outside dining is available in the summer. Live music year-round, baby-sitting for the kids, and popular with foreign dignitaries. While it's not to be confused with the Four Seasons Restaurant in New York City, it's a great dining experience nonetheless.
  • Drink

    For young and single people, Bishkek's nightlife is impressive. Foreigners are welcomed at most venues with open arms, and many times they do not need to pay a cover charge. See the "Stay Safe" section for more on how be aware while you're having fun in Bishkek.

  • '''Golden Bull''' - (near the White House) One of the most popular nightclubs in Bishkek. On any night of the week you are guaranteed to find a large and lively crowd full of locals, expats, and tourists. Out-of-towners get in free on weekends.
  • '''Fire and Ice''' - (Chui and Erkindik) This popular, Pakistani-owned disco near the Bishkek city center is located right above a bowling alley.
  • '''Retro Metro''' - You'll find the DJ spinning from inside a Volkswagen camper van. The 80's kitsch is a popular spot for really late night partying.
  • '''Promzona''' - A trendy Russian rock establishment with a mostly Russian clientele. Jazz musicians play on Tuesdays with rock and blues acts on the weekends. Check out their extensive drink menu.
  • '''Sweet 60s''' - (Molodaya Gvardia and Kievskaya; near cinema Oktyabr) Live music everyday, with jazz evenings on Wednesday and Sunday.
  • Sleep

    Budget

  • Nomad's Home. revesnaya 10. 996 312 299955. omadshome@gmail.com. ttp://nomadshome.googlepages.com/. Two Kyrgyz women, Raisa and Gulnara, run this friendly homestay. Dormitories, double rooms, and tent camping are available (with one of the double rooms inside a yurt!) Breakfast served everyday with a dinner menu available on request. Informational notes posted on the walls by past visitors can be very helpful. Pick-up from and drop-off to Manas International is available as well as visa assistance.

  • South Guest House. 996 312 472623. south_gh@mail.ru. ttp://www.geocities.com/south_gh. A great bargain with a nice view of the mountains outside Bishkek. The young Kyrgyz host, Nanchan, can help accommodate to your needs with traveling suggestions, sightseeing tours, before you arrive. Pick-up from Manas International is available.

    Mid-range

  • Alpinist. anfilov 113. 996 312 595647. lpinist@elcat.kg. ttp://www.alpinist.centralasia.kg/. A great value in the center of Bishkek; the Alpinist has single, double, and triple occupancy rooms available with satellite TV and internet ports, a full service cafe, a conference room, and - being true to its name - a climbing wall!

  • MBA Business Center Hotel. anfilov 237. 996 312 623120. Lots of space, a friendly staff, but questionable comfort at this large hotel located inside an actual business center on the 4th floor.

  • Radison Guest House. bdymomunova 259. 996 312 935025. ad_1983@mail.ru. 996(312)66-37-85. ttp://www.radisonhouse.com. Smaller hotel, but with nice clean rooms, TVs in each room and air conditioning. The owner speaks English.

    Splurge

  • Ak Keme. rospekt Mira 93. 996 312 540143/44/45/52 . nfo@akkemehotel.com. ttp://www.akkemehotel.com/. PM. 2PM. Upscale hotel located about 8 kilometers from the Bishkek city center offers a conference center, a health club, indoor and outdoor pools with bar access, and spa services.

  • Hyatt Regency Bishkek. ovietskaya 191. 996 312 661234. ishkek.regency@hyatt.com. ttp://bishkek.regency.hyatt.com/hyatt/hotels/. 2PM. PM. 5-star hotel in Bishkek's business district houses Kyrgyzstan's largest in the country. Popular with foreign dignitaries and businessmen.

  • Jannat. icro Rayon 7. 996 312 911210. ttp://www.jannat-hotel.kg/. PM. 2PM. ffice@jannat-hotel.kg. This new hotel is located about 20 minutes outside the city center and is home to the Monte Carlo casino. Silk and felt textiles add a bit more of a Kyrgyz feel to the hotel.

  • Club Hotel Bishkek. runze 425-B. 996 312 683888" email="info@dostuk.kg" checkin="12PM" checkout="3PM" url="http://dostuk.kg/en/" >This upscale luxury hotel is located on the 5th floor of the Dostuk Hotel.</sleep>

    Stay safe

    While relatively safe compared to many major Asian cities, one should use caution after hours in Bishkek. It is highly recommended against taking an unaccompanied stroll after dusk and you definitely avoid parks at night.

    Nightclubs and their surrounding areas can be a hotbed for crime in the form of theft, prostitution, or even assault by people waiting to take advantage of an unsuspecting traveler or expat. Ask locals or hotel staff which areas are safer than other and take precautions if you plan on club hopping. Do NOT walk from nightclub to nightclub at night; instead spend the 100 som ($2.50) on a taxi instead. Potential muggers have been known to wait outside bars and clubs (especially the ones frequented by ex-pats), follow drunk ex-pats, and then rob them. Keep a cool head and be aware of your surroundings when hanging out inside and outside of nightclubs. Most clubs have numerous buff, semi-professional security guards, but you should be vigilant nonetheless. Do not leave any belongings on the table while you go to dance. Be careful around the taxi area outside the club; occasionally, unsavory characters pick this location to mug drunk foreigners as they leave the club late at night. You might not get much help from club security when it comes to theft.

    Bishkek has a large number of prostitutes and sexual-transmitted diseases are on the rise in Kyrgyzstan and Central Asia. Always take proper precautions if you plan on being sexually active.

    If you are a victim of a crime, you are probably best served by reporting the incident to your embassy, rather than to the militsya (police). Sometimes militsya will approach foreigners and ask them for documents, such as your passport. It's best to keep a photocopy of your passport and leave the original at your hotel if you can. On the rare occasion they try to fine you for having "the wrong visa", you are most likely just being set up for a shake down. Be polite, but firm, in your refusal and insist that you be put in touch with your embassy first.

    Irrigation ditches and other holes in the ground can seriously injure the unaware person - especially when walking at night. Many streets are poorly lit or not lit at all, and it is easy to fall into them. Avoid manhole covers, grates, and similar fixtures - they are frequently loose and may also cause you to fall (or they may be missing altogether)!

    Cope

    For some, Bishkek is a little like Eastern Europe 20 years ago; more or less like a museum relic of the Soviet Union. For others, this historical quality may make it seem more like a poor city with little character. Bishkek is not an old city and possesses few, if any, ancient landmarks, aside from those leftover from the Soviet era. For most travelers, it's just a stop on the Silk Road to refresh supplies before the return to the mountains. For many international workers and their visiting guests, however, it is home. If you come with modest expectations, you might find yourself pleasantly surprised!

  • <listing name="The Spektator" alt="" address="71 Kommorova" directions="" phone="" url="http://www.thespektator.co.uk/" hours="" price="" lat="" long="" email="editor@thespektator.co.uk" fax="">This monthly guide magazine features society, culture and tourism articles on Kyrgyzstan and Central Asia. It also has a fairly extensive listing of the happenings at local clubs, bars, and restaurants. View online at http://www.thespektator.co.uk</listing>
  • Bishkek Video Rental & Used Bookstore. 59 Prospect Chui. 996 503 928016. u-T 10AM-9PM, F-Sa 10AM-10PM. This unique store stocks a large quantity of English-language movies and used books, and is located near the Metro Pub. They will buy your used books if you need to unload a few copies you've lugged around during your travels.

    Get out

    Thirty minutes outside of Bishkek the 13,000 foot (4,000) meter "foothills" of the Tian Shan range (Celestial Mountains).

  • '''Al-Archa National Park''' - This park goes the length of a beautiful valley where you can hike in several kilometers to a glacier. Inside the park is a hotel and couple of small cafes. Taxi services can take you and wait a few hours for about 1000 som ($25).