'''Sao Luis''' is the capital of the Brazilian state of Maranhao.

Understand

Although it was founded by the French in 1612 and has also been occupied by the Dutch in the past, Sao Luis remained a markedly Portuguese colonial city. The buildings with beautiful ''azulejo'' (tiles) walls and the cobblestone streets of its well-preserved historic center have been listed a World heritage site by UNESCO.

The city is roughly divided in two regions, divided by a river of sorts:

  • Sao Luis proper with the center, Old Town and industrial and working class suburbs.
  • Sao Francisco and its neighbours, which comprise a newer commercial district, all urban beaches, and many new high rise apartment buildings.
  • Sao Luis is also one of those places that have a distinctive culture of its own - typical cuisine, popular traditions and festivals and lively ''reggae'' parties that make the culture of Sao Luis stand out among Brazilian cities.

    Get in

    By bus

    Bus station some 8 km southeast of the center, close to the airport in Avenida dos Franceses 5073 - right north of the intersection with Rua Tres. Telephone ''+55 98'' 3249 2488. The bus ''Socorrao 2 / Rodoviaria''(and others) takes you pretty straight to/from the waterfront of Old Town. Taxi about R$ 20. To Belem, 3 daily, 12 hours, R$ 75-90, by ''Boa Esperanca'' and ''Transbrasiliana''[http://www.transbrasiliana.com.br/] An exhausting 20 hours to Fortaleza by ''Guanabara''[http://www.expressoguanabara.com.br]

    By train

    Train three times a week [http://www.antt.gov.br/destaques/TrensDePassageiros_PrecoHorarios.pdf] to Parauapebas via Santa Ines, Acailandia, Maraba and others. The train station is located in a street named: Companhia Vale do Rio Doce - next to Avenida dos Portugueses - some kilometers south west of the center. ''Companhia Vale do Rio Doce'' is the name of the company that operates the train.

    By air

    Airport some 13 km from the centre. Domestic flights by Gol[http://www.voegol.com.br], TAM[http://www.tam.com.br], Oceanair[http://www.oceanair.com.br], TAF[http://www.voetaf.com.br] (also flies to French Guiana) and Litoranea[http://www.voelitoranea.com.br].
  • The bus ''901 Sao Cristovao / Alemanha'' leaves from right outside the terminal (follow the signs) every 25 minutes or so, and takes about 45 minutes to reach ''Praca Deodouro'' in the city center (where you can hop on to get '''to''' the airport). Get off one stop after, on ''Rua do Passeio'' and walk down the pedestrian ''Rua Grande'' for 10 minutes to get to the eastern edge of Old Town.
  • If the above bus is not about to leave, a faster way is walking for 10 minutes along the main exit from the airport. Keeping to the right you will see a ''Shell'' gas station. From here you take the bus ''Socorrao 2 / Rodoviaria''(or ask what other goes), pretty straight to the Old down, about 30 minutes. To get '''to''' the airport, a number of buses from the ''Praia Grande'' terminal pass by the Shell station.
  • Taxis run at fixed prices, displayed at a table just as you exit fromluggage pick up: To Old Town R$ 30, to the beaches R$ 40.
  • Distance to other important cities:

  • Fortaleza: 1070 km
  • Recife: 1600 km
  • Brasilia: 2160 km
  • Rio de Janeiro (city): 3060 km
  • Get around

    Staying in the Old Town, most is walkable. There is a big bus terminal, ''Praia Grande'' by the sea side:
  • ''T065 Sao Raimundo / Band Tribuzzi'' takes you to Sao Luis Shopping in about 15 minutes.
  • ''403 Calhau/Litoranea'' goes by all the beaches.
  • Many buses pass by the ''Praca Dedouro''.

    See

  • '''Beaches'''. These all suffer from an enormous tidal variation, -reportedly more than ten metres on spring. On high tide there is no dry sand left. The most popular beach is '''Ponta d'Areia''', -far nicer if you continue a couple of kilometers: The beach of ''Sao Marcos'' continues into the beach of ''Calhau'' covering a stretch of some 5 kilometers with plenty of simple bars and restaurants and a broad pavement by the road.
  • '''Old Town''' is the main attraction of the city. Plenty of colonial architecture, but still quite needing of more refurbishing.
  • Do

  • '''Bumba-meu-boi''' - From 13 to 30 June - This beautiful folklore manifestation of Iberian origin is one of the highlights of the city's culture. It has been kept alive by the black people of Sao Luis and is performed by groups in costumes, telling a tale of a certain ''Bull'' through music, dance and theater throughout the city.
  • Cinema

    There is an art cinema in the Old Town, with a mix of Brazilian and weird imports.

    The largest and most modern movie theatre[http://www.boxcinemas.com.br], with 10 showrooms, is at the Sao Luis Shopping, mostly showing Hollywood fare.

    Buy

    There are three malls in the city with one of them being in the historic part of town. There are numerous shops that sell souvenirs. The city center_Ls main pedestrian mall is '''Rua Grande''', which has most shops but hardware and foodstuffs.

    Eat

    Local dishes include ''Peixada''(fish) and shrimp pie, and '''Arroz de cuxa''' -rice with herbs.

    In Old Town:

  • La Pizzeria. izza for 2 R$ 17-29. Real Italian style, probably the best in the state
  • Toca da Amizade. ua Joao Victal, Old Town. et meals R$ 5-10. Serves late lunch.
  • Dom Francisco. ld Town. unch R$ 20 per kilo, dinner a la carte.

    Drink

    Maranhao has its own version of the ''guarana'' soft drink, called ''Jesus'' (nothing religious, it was the inventor_Ls name). It is pink and rather sweeter than the others. Many small bars around Old Town, but quite dead on Sundays, when most action goes along the beaches. Another area is along the ''Lagoa da Jansen'', near the beach ''Ponta d'Areia''. A third is on the beach of ''Calhau''. Night buses go past these areas every half hour on weekends.

  • Kabao. n the seafront 2 km west of old town. Big open air
  • Bar do Porto. Reggea spot by the boat terminal
  • Bar do Nelson. ear the end of Avenida Litoranea, Calhau. eekends. ntry R$ 10. Bar come club, mostly reggea, some live. Drinking on the street outside.
  • Pirata. venida Litoranea, Calhau. eekends. ntry R$ 10. As big as it gets in this city. Forro. Also quite a party on the pavement outside.

    Sleep

    Plenty of options within the Old Town, which is where most visitors wisely choose to stay. If you for some reason prefer a beach, ''Calhau'' has many pousadas (no budget options), beach bars and a few restaurants.

    Budget

    There is a youth hostel in Old Town that also offers singles, doubles and family rooms:
  • Solar das Pedras. ttp://www.ajsolardaspedras.com.br/. orm bed R$ 20, double R$ 60.
  • Pousada Internacional. ua da Estrela, Old Town. 55 98 3231 5154. ingle R$ 25, Double R$ 40, shared bathrooms. This old time LP favourite seems to be pricing itself out..
  • Pousada Reviver. ld Town. 55 86 3231 4465. ouble R$ 25, also dorms and larger rooms.. Bright and clean, high ceilings. Shared bathroom. Kitchen. No breakfast.
  • Pousada Cantaria. ua da Estrela, Old Town. ouble with fan R$ 50.
  • Hotel Lord. ld Town. ouble with fan R$ 65, also air con.. Decadent
  • Pousada Maranhense. ld Town. Here people mostly pay by the hour, but you might use it in emergencies.
  • Pousada Beira Mar. ight by the bridge. ingle R$ 25. Basic, small rooms

    Mid Range

  • '''Praia Mar Hotel''' [http://www.brazils-hotels.com/saolprai.htm] - Nice rooms right on the beach, good food.
  • Solar dos Nobres. outheast of the center. ttp://www.pousadasolardosnobres.com.br/. ingle R$ 50.

    Cope

  • '''Laundry''' at ''Lavamatic'', upper end of Rua Ribeirao, R$ 9/kg, next day if you are lucky.
  • Get out

  • Alcantara - Reached by an approximately hour long boat ride from Sao Luis. Timetables are not entirely stable as they depend somewhat on tides, bust mostly around 7 and 9 AM there should be a boat, R$ 10, with return in the late afternoon. Doublecheck at ticket office the day before.
  • Lencois Maranhenses through Barreirinhas