'''Yakushima''' (___v__) is an island off the south east coast of Kyushu next to Tanegashima and north of Okinawa in Japan. Officially a part of Kagoshima Prefecture, it is on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Though not too well-known outside Japan, Yakushima is a popular destination for Japanese tourists, hence the infrastructure (hotels, restaurants, transportation) is good.

Understand

Yakushima (circumference 135 kilometers) is a small, nearly round granite island that rises almost 2000m above sea level. It is one of the most rain-soaked places in Japan, with measurable precipitation 50% of the days of the year. Due to its isolation, steep terrain and exceptional climate Yakushima is one of Japan's natural wonders. The rocky coastline and the verdant mountains rising sharply in the center of the island are often spectacular. Wildflowers and blossoms decorate roads and forest. The pink sunrises and blood red sunsets over the Pacific are breathtaking. White clouds line the horizon and pile up billowing in the blue sky. Mists and rain clouds shroud the tops of the mountains. When the moon has set, the night sky is black and entirely filled with stars.

The island's forests are not virgin. Hundreds of years ago, most of its ancient trees were cut for lumber. The stumps remain everywhere, often uncorrupted and covered with moss or sprouting other trees, including second and third-generation cedar in the continually regenerating forest. The few remaining cedar trees over 1000 years old are termed ''yakusugi'' and each is revered and has been given its own name. The largest, called the ''Jomon sugi'', is estimated to be between 2100 years old (based on a core sample) and 7200 years old (based on its size).

The pristine ''yakusugi'' forests were an inspiration for acclaimed animator Hayao Miyazaki's 1997 epic ''Princess Mononoke''.

Because of the remoteness and difficulty of the terrain, there are relatively few tourists. Those who do come come to walk the forests. The well-trod hiking trails are entirely free of garbage. Visitors need to continue to ensure that no waste is left behind.

Human activity being a relatively small part of island life, there is abundant wildlife, notably a large deer and monkey population which goes about its life unconcerned by any humans in the vicinity. Wild monkeys should not, of course, be approached. Unlike some places where monkeys and humans interact, Yakushima monkeys are not fed by residents or tourists and so do not approach cars or persons for food. Don't feed the monkeys and this happy state of affairs will continue.

There are a few bilingual English/Japanese information signs on the hiking trails and in museums. As always the tourist information centers, particularly in Miyanoura, are extremely helpful although English may not be spoken.

Get in

There is a (charmingly small) airport with direct flights to/from Kagoshima.

There are ferry connections to Kagoshima and Shimama.

The "Toppy"[http://www.toppy.jp/fare_time/kagoshima_yakushima.html] and "Rocket"[http://www.cosmoline.jp/] Jetfoil ferries can be taken from Kagoshima; they both take approximately 2 hours depending on if there are stops at Ibusuki and Tanegashima. They cost approximately 7000 yen and 5000 yen respectively and run 4 times a day, although they may stop for bad weather. They can arrive at either Miyanoura port or Anbo port, so take care to plan the following transport and accommodation accordingly.

Get around

A highway runs around the island's coast. Buses travel most of this outer ring once an hour from 07:00 to 18:00, taking in the airport, the two major ports, the beaches and hot springs.

There are also infrequent buses to the entrances of the hiking trails in the island's interior: twice daily to the Arakawa trail (''Jomon sugi'') and Yakusugiland, and four times daily to Shiratani Unsuikyo.

The bus times from Miyanoura port are 08:00, 08:20, 10:00, 11:20, 13:00, 13:30, 15:30, and returns from Shiratani Unsuikyo are at 09:00, 09:30, 11:00, 12:00, 14:10, 16:00, 16:10 (as of May 2009). Fares are determined by the distance traveled and are not cheap — for example, the Miyanoura–Arakawa trail head is 1,400 yen one way.

Car rental starts at around 5,000 yen per day.

Mountain bike hire in Miyanoura (+81 (0)997-42-0091 and -0944).

See

Most visitors come to experience the ancient cedar trees and forests. This requires some--or a lot of--hiking (see '''Do''' below).

  • '''Yakusugi Museum''' (''Yakusugi Shizenkan''), 2739-343 Anbo (''3 kilometers inland from Anbo port; 40 minutes by bus from Miyanoura; 6 minutes by bus from Anbo; part of a museum complex at the base of the road leading to Yakusugiland and the Arakawa trail to Jomon sugi''), ''+81 (0)997'' 46-3113. Every day, 9AM-5PM (''last admission 4:30PM; closed 1st Tu of month, and 12/29 to 1/1''). There are photos, movies and hands-on exhibits showing the island's natural wonders and the history of the logging industry. You can also hug a section of a 1660-year-old ''yakusugi''. English explanatory pamphlet provided. \600 (''student reductions'') A short walk away is the '''World Heritage Conservation Center'''.
  • '''Yakushima Fruit Garden''' (''Yakushima Fruuts Gaaden''), 629-16 Nakama (''on the southwest coast, south of Kurio; 50 minutes by bus from Anbo to Nakama bus stop then 20-minute walk''), ''+81 (0)997'' 48-2468. Every day 8:30AM-4:30PM. Walk among the hundreds of tropical fruit trees and plants, with seasonal fruit like papaya, mango, guava and starfruit available to eat or drink. \500.
  • '''Shitogo Gajumaru-en Banyan Garden''' (''Shitogo Gajumaru-en'')(''on the coast north of Miyanoura; 10 minutes by bus from Miyanoura to Shitogo bus stop, then a 5-minute walk''), ''+81 (0)997'' 42-0100. Every day 8:30AM-5:30PM (''April to August -6:30PM''). There are 300-year-old Banyan trees and a variety of sub-tropical plants in a park setting. \200.
  • There are several '''waterfalls''' on the island, including Ooko-no-taki which is justly rated as one of Japan's best. It is on the remoter southwest coast of the island, a 60- and 90-minute bus ride from Anbo and Miyanoura respectively. The 90-meter falls are easily accessible, being a short walk away from the main highway on a paved road, and visitors can approach the base for a good view. Those wanting to get closer and wetter can scramble over boulders to the plunge pool.

    If you leave the towns, villages and main highway, you are almost guaranteed close encounters with the resident '''deer''' (''shika'') and '''monkeys''' (''saru''). Both varieties are small. If you have a car, the most accessible place to see them is the short section of coastal road in the west (south of Nagata) that has not been widened into a highway and where buses do not run. Here, deer often scramble down to the road, and in the afternoons monkeys groom each other on the warm asphalt, stopping all traffic.

    On several beaches, including Nagata-inaka-hama Beach, '''giant turtles''' come ashore to lay their eggs. This is a rare occurrence from the end of May to August and very early in the morning (1AM-2AM). Only red flashlights may be used so as not to scare away the turtles (who are blind to red light). Two ecotour centers offer guided tours: Native Vision (Miyanoura), ''+81 (0)997'' 42-0091, [http://www.native-vision.com/]. Outdoor Yakushima Guide System (Anbo), ''+81 (0)997'' 46-3220, [http://www1.ocn.ne.jp/~iwakawa/guide.html]. From \8000 per person.

    Do

    You came to see the ''yakusugi'' cedar forests. There are three general areas to do this: the trail to and from the ''Jomon sugi'', the Shiratani Unsuikyo (___J______) forest, and the trails of Yakusugiland. Because of its (dubious) reputation as the oldest tree on the island, the ''Jomon sugi'' is the premier destination for most visitors. It can only be reached on foot, and to get there, hikers must be reasonably fit and start before dawn in order to complete the arduous 10 or 12-hour round trip. It is a beautiful and interesting enough hike, but the steep trail to and from ''Jomon sugi'' does not go through the most impressive forest on the island. To see the silent, mossy, primeval forest pictured in the tourist brochures, the better destination is the Shiratani Unsuikyo forest, and it doesn't require an early start and hours of tough hiking to get there.

    '''The Shiratani Unsuikyo forest''': This can be reached by car up the recently widened road, or by bus from Miyanoura (40 minutes; 530 yen). Admission to the trail is 300 yen, to cover maintenance. A map and suggested routes based on your time constraints are provided at the trail head. There are two main hiking options: a 3 to 4-hour route through an awe-inspiring forest with a half-dozen or so ''yakusugi'' and more moss than you can shake a stick at; and a 30-minute there-and-back hike to the magnificent 3000-year-old cedar called ''Yayoi sugi''. The longer route begins with a series of wooden steps and walkways past waterfalls. A loop to the right takes in the ''Yayoi sugi'' but it's recommended to leave this until last. Keep going ahead for 15 minutes until you come to a suspension bridge. Don't cross the bridge but walk ahead into the forest proper where the trail climbs past mossy stumps and ancient trees, and drops down to boulder-strewn drinking streams, leading you deep into another silent world. Deer and monkeys graze and feed unafraid. After about two hours of walking with stops to take in the natural marvels of the forest, the trail divides, with an option to turn right to Shiratani hut and ''Mononoke-hime no Mori'', a part of the forest named after Hayao Miyazaki's anime movie ''Princess Mononoke.'' You miss nothing by turning left here and heading back via the original Edo-period Kusugawa trail. After an hour's walk, it ends in the trail's old granite steps down to the suspension bridge. Cross the bridge, turn right, take the loop up to the left to ''Yayoi sugi'' if you still have the energy, and return down to the trailhead. This hike is not especially arduous, and is arguably the most beautiful on the island.

    '''Yakusugiland''': In spite of its theme-park name, this is another natural area for walking in the forest among ''yakusugi,'' with a variety of hiking options based on time (there are 30, 50, 80 and 150 minute round trip trails). It is less accessible than Shiratani Unsuikyo, being further from the coast with a narrower access road and fewer buses.

    '''To and from ''Jomon sugi''''': The usual way to approach the giant tree is via the Arakawa trail, a round trip of approximately 10 hours. There is no parking at the trail head, which can only be reached by a complex series of buses. First, drive, or take a bus or taxi to the Yakusugi Museum (''Yakusugi Shizenkan'') Complex. The trip from here to the trail head at Arakawa Tozanguchi bus stop is on two further buses with the change halfway and a combined fare of 1010 yen. The first, easy part of the hike is along the tracks of the railroad used to haul out cedar logs. After about two hours, the trail turns off the rails and from here it's a hard two-hour climb up the well-maintained path, passing ''Wilson's Stump,'' the huge hollow remains of a logged tree, and on up to ''Jomon sugi'' itself. Many visitors make the hike in a group with a guide. This isn't necessary as the trail is well-marked, but a guide enriches the experience by pointing out and giving you the (Japanese-language) inside information on the history and landmarks. Food and water must be carried in, but water can be replenished halfway along the railroad and at the drinking streams near the destination. Solid walking shoes or light hiking boots are best, with sneakers possible if you're careful. It rains at least part of most days, so pack an umbrella or plastic rain jacket. Because of the hiking time and time required to get to the trails from the coast, hikers often start out before 5 am. If you have not reached ''Jomon sugi'' by 1 pm, it may be advisable to turn around or you may by caught on the trail by night fall. An alternative way to ''Jomon sugi'' is starting at Shiratani Unsuikyo. This route begins with the hike through the Shiratani Unsuikyo forest (see above), taking the right fork to Mononoke-hime-no-Mori, then climbing steeply toward (but not to) Taikoiwa rock, and going over the Tsujitoge pass before descending to join the Arakawa trail where it turns off the railroad, for a 12-hour round trip.

    '''Longer hikes''' with overnight stays are available for the adventurous. The hiking trails are among the most pristine and lonely in Japan. The hike to the top of the highest peaks Miyanoura-dake (1867 meters) and Nagata-dake (1886 meters) and back is tough, typically requiring two to four days depending on the route you select. There are a few mountain huts along the way, but they are nothing more than empty structures so bring your own bedding and provisions. It will rain.

    There are a few white sand '''beaches''' with clear water at various places on the coast. If there is no lifeguard, swim with caution. Nagata-no-hama beach has a small reef system nearby so it is possible to see some marine life. At the southern/western end of this beach there are some showers available for use.

    '''Scuba''' is also available.

    Seaside onsen can be enjoyed at Kaichuu onsen_i_C______) in Hirauchi_i____), and a few kilometers west at Yudomari onsen below picturesque Yudomari village. Both have 100 yen entrance fees, placed in a trust box. Kaichuu onsen is only available for a few hours before and after low tide. It is also very well-known, and the constant flow of visitors can make it a less-than-relaxing place to bathe. Far better is Yudomari onsen (open 24 hours). The tiny main pool has a bamboo screen that offers a modicum of separation between the sexes. But keep walking down the concrete path to the left of this bath and you will come to an even smaller, more private pool. Between soaks, slip down to the sea for a swim among the rocks. Just outside the entrance to Yudomari onsen, a small bar serves cold beer and other drinks and snacks.

    Buy

    Using the local cedar, artisans craft a great variety of goods such as chopsticks and sake cups in all price ranges for the souvenir trade.

    Eat

    Local specialties include flying fish and two varieties of orange: tankan and ponkan.

    On the coast road south of Anbo, by the parking lot for Toroki Falls, a produce center sells fruit in season and other local goods and produce including tankan juice, ice cream and sherbet. (The Toroki Falls are a 5-minute hike away. They fall directly into the sea, but are underwhelming.)

    Drink

    The local shochu is worth sampling. The most famous is called Mitake, and comes in a 25 percent and 32 percent variety.

    Sleep

    Budget

    Camping is not allowed in the national park, but backpackers can find several small huts along the trails in the central mountains of the island that they can stay in free of charge. These huts vary in size and can accommodate anywhere from 20-60 people. However, they are little more than four concrete or wooden walls and a roof, and at night they get very cold. Backpackers should be well equipped with sleeping bags and heavy clothing even when weather along the coast is warm and pleasant. Rental equipment from Miyanoura is not always up to par. Camping sites at the coast are about 800Yen and a few backpackers starting from 1600Yen for accomodation only.

    Mid-range

    There are many small lodges which run 5000-8000Yen with 2 meals.

    Shiki no Yado Onoaida (_l_G___h_@___V__) [http://www.h3.dion.ne.jp/~yasuakim/] in Onoaida (___V__) is a small family run lodge with a choice of Japanese style rooms, Western rooms or cottages. The price is around 8000 yen per person, per night including breakfast and dinner.

    Splurge

    JR Hotel Yakushima [http://www.jrhotelgroup.com/eng/hotel/eng154htm] in Onoaida has twin rooms from 15,000 yen per person per night including breakfast and dinner. The modern nonagonal hotel building is situated on a point so the Pacific horizon seems to stretch endlessly. Opposite, the island's mountains rise in a sheer rock face. The rooms and food are excellent, and there is a hot spring (including ''rotenburo'' outdoor pool) overlooking the ocean. But what most impresses is the polite and thoughtful staff and service, impeccable even by Japanese standards.

    Stay safe

    Some snakes. The coastline is beautiful, but rough; bathing in the wrong place might be dangerous.