The "little town" of Bethlehem, mentioned in any number of Christmas carols, attracts pilgrims worldwide on account of its description in the New Testament (and particularly the Gospels) as the birthplace of Jesus, whom Christians believe to be Messiah and Son of God. The '''Church of the Nativity''' is the focus of Christian veneration within the city.
In somewhat related circumstances, although no longer a Jewish city, Bethlehem is revered by Jews as the birthplace and home town of David, King of Israel, as well as the traditional site of '''Rachel's Tomb''' (on the outskirts of the town).
Although also home to many Muslims, Bethlehem remains home to one of the largest Arab Christian communities in the Middle East (despite significant emigration in recent years, resulting in a growing Muslim majority) and one of the chief cultural and tourism drawcards for the Palestinian community. The Bethlehem agglomeration also includes the small towns of Beit Jala and Beit Sahour, the latter also having biblical significance.
A long snake of town, the main thoroughfare of Bethlehem is '''Manger Street''' which stretches from Rachel's Tomb (and the road to Jerusalem) all the way to '''Manger Square''', the focal point of the city. Manger Square is flanked by the '''Church of the Nativity''' on one side and the '''Mosque of Omar''' on the other. The Old Town and the ''souq'' (market), which are best navigated on foot, stretch up the hill from Manger Square.
The name means "The House of Bread" in Hebrew, and "The House of Meat" in Arabic. However, it seems likely that both meanings have been retrofitted onto what was originally the House of Lachma, the Mesopotamian god of fertility. The area has been settled since 50,000 BC and there is some evidence that the town is mentioned in the Egyptian Amarna letters (1400 BC). The Old Testament Book of Ruth (''c.'' 1150 BC) has the first certain reference to Bethlehem; it tells the story of Naomi, who left Bethlehem during a famine, and later returned with her daughter-in-law Ruth. Still, Bethlehem remained a small town in the shadow of mighty Jerusalem, and according to most estimates it had some 300 to 1000 inhabitants at the time of the event that gave Bethlehem its fame, namely the birth of Jesus.
Somewhat surprisingly, aside from noting that the Nativity indeed took place there, the New Testament virtually ignores Bethlehem. And things didn't change immediately afterwards: wrecked during the Bar-Kochba revolt (132-135 AD), the Romans set up a shrine to Adonis on the site of the Nativity. Only in 326 was the first Christian church constructed, when Helen, the mother of the first Christian emperor, Constantine, visited Bethlehem. Afterwards it grew slowly but steadily, achieving its pinnacle as a strong fortified city during the Crusader era, but the Ottomans razed the fortifications and reduced Bethlehem back into the village it was 2000 years earlier.
The setback proved only temporary, and despite the turbulence of the 20th century the town has (as of 2000) grown to an estimated 184,000 inhabitants. On December 21, 1995, Bethlehem became one of the areas under the full control of the Palestinian Authority. In the city itself, 41% of the population is Christian, while 59% is Muslim. Christians used to be a large majority but their numbers have declined throughout the 20th century.
Nearly all travellers arrive via Jerusalem. Since Bethlehem is administered by the Palestinian Authority, an Israeli military checkpoint stands on the road connecting the two locations. All travelers are subject to rigorous questioning and searches. If checkpoint security is stepped up (usually owing to local disturbances or tension), buses and service taxis may be delayed or cancelled entirely. However to get into Bethlehem there is no checkpoint, but no Isrelis can get in. On the way out it is not a very rigorous checkpoint, just like any other border crossing
Arab bus 21 runs from the Arabic bus station at the Damacus Gate ("Bab el-'Amoud") in East Jerusalem via Beit Jala to Bethlehem. The average trip length is 40 minutes and costs 6 NIS. Note that this goes through the checkpoint (at least on the trip from Bethlehem to Damascus Gate) which may be more convenient depending on where you wind up in Bethlehem.
Shared taxis (sherut/servees) leave from Damascus Gate and manage the trip in 20 minutes.
Bus 124 also leaves from Damascus Gate, it costs 4 NIS and runs directly to the Bethlehem Checkpoint and back. You must travel through the checkpoint as you enter and exit Bethlehem. Make sure to bring a passport, and prepare for what can be a lengthy hassle. It may also be the case that you are waved through without any inspection. From the checkpoint, you can either walk or take a taxi to the center of Bethlehem. It is approximately 7 km to Manger Square. It is no longer than half an hour walk. The price quoted by taxi drivers as of June 2008 is 50 NIS although surely negotiable.
Devoted pilgrims often prefer to walk (and in happier times there has been a large procession at Christmas), at a brisk pace the trip is doable in 2 hours but there are plenty of ups and downs along the way and the summer heat is fearsome.
The '''All Nations Cafe''' [http://www.allnationscafe.org] organizes summer caravans where internationals can learn about the social, political and cultural fabrics of life in and around Bethlehem.
While Bethlehem's souq is no match for Jerusalem's, it is much less touristy and the sellers are less aggressive.
In peaceful times, Bethlehem's traders do a roaring trade in souvenirs for pilgrims to the town. In the current situation, the tour operators prefer to hustle the groups in and out of the Nativity Church without allowing them time to look around Manger Square. That means the shops here are blessedly free from pilgrims, and also that the shopkeepers there are in desperate need of business. They remain, however, substantially less agressive than Jerusalem's sellers.
Just of Manger Square on Milk Grotto Street there are a number of souvenir shops selling various religious gifts and Bethlehem's famous olive wood carvings. I found the Tabash Nativity Store friendly, not pushy, and willing to give discounts. They will also offer you a free Turkish coffee.
Visit one of Bethlehem's four refugee camps for traditional Palestinian handicrafts, including beautiful embroidery.
Bethlehem is a good base for visits to nearby Herodion (or Herodium), a fortress built by Herod the Great and located some 6 km to the south-east of the town. Herodion can be reached by ''sherut'' from Beit Sahour, while a taxi from Bethlehem costs about US$20 for a round trip. The Herodion is administered by the Israel Nature & National Parks Protection Authority [http://www.parks.org.il/ParksENG/company_card.php3?NewNameMade=46&from=116&CNumber=337735#data]. Information from a Palestinian website about the site is here[http://www.bethlehem.ps/cultural_sites/arch_sites/herodium.php].