'''Wagah''' (or ''Wagha'') is a border town straddling the line between Pakistan and India, 29 km from the town of Lahore on the Pakistani side and 27 km from Amritsar on the Indian side. This is the only crossing point between Pakistan and India that is regularly open to foreigners.

Get in

The closest significant town to Wagah from the Indian side is Amritsar, Punjab.

By train

The ''Samjhauta Express'' from Delhi to Lahore passes through Wagah. The last station on the Indian side is '''Attari'''.

By road

From Lahore Station, take a bus, or taxi. Minibus No.12 leaves from outside Lahore Railway Station every 15 minutes (~US$0.20), while a taxi should cost US$8. The trip takes around half an hour.

From Amritsar, Wagah is about 45 minutes away by car. There are public buses to Attari station, from where you can continue the last 3 km to the border by cyclerickshaw.

Most tourists can take a taxi through their hotels for a round trip, which includes the waiting time at Wagah. As of Jan 09, a typical fare for such a trip from Amritsar is about Rs. 800 (US $17)

Get around

If you're planning on actually crossing the border, you should aim to get there as early as possible. As of 2009, the border is open every day from 8:30 AM to 2:30 PM. Border formalities can take anywhere from 30 minutes to over two hours, and you '''will''' need to arrange a visa before you arrive.

Regular buses or taxis are not allowed into the no-man's land between the countries, so unless you're on one of the few deluxe international buses, you'll have to walk across the 500m between the border posts yourself. Porters -- blue coats for the Indians, green coats for the Pakistanis -- can carry your belongings for a few dollars.

See

There is daily flag raising and lowering ceremony at Wagah Border, done with overblown pomp and ceremony that involves lots of tall soldiers in massive turbans goose-stepping about and slamming gates. Both the Indian and Pakistani border forces do this and it has become a tradition and people from both sides gather and see this. Both sides synchronize their parade and the entire event is meant to create a feel-good/patriotic fervor amongst the crowd.

As of Jan 2009, the flag lowering ceremony which happens around 4:15 PM everyday has become the main event for tourists. In addition, there is now a short cultural programme also done by local folk dancers (Bhangra) for the waiting crowd before the flag lowering. Please take note that a peak crowd of upto 2000+ people can assemble on the indian side on weekends/long weekends/public holidays. The crowd consists of mostly tourists & locals. The noise and atmosphere of the assembled crowds on both sides of the border is similar to that of a sporting match and very entertaining.

The border gates have a visitor gallery on each side, basically concrete steps created around the border main road. This allows most people in the crowd to get a seat but it is not uncommon to see up to 500-1000 people standing at the periphery. There are metal fences to help direct and control the crowds in and out of the seating areas.

Ideally, one should reach the border gates by 3:30 PM to get some seating if you're going on a rush day.

The seating area is as follows:

  • VIP seating - closest to the gates and requires a special pass which can be made from the BSF station near the Amristsar bypass road a couple of days in advance.
  • Ladies exclusive - this is new, a section where only ladies, small children are allowed. This comes after the VIP seating and is little further from the gates (about 80m away)
  • General seating - These days (Jan 09), this seating is given to men only as it tends to get very crowded and congested during rush days. Occasional pushing/jostling may happen.
  • Cellphones, Cameras (any kind), men's wallets are allowed. No covered bags (including ladies purses & handbags) are allowed inside the visitor areas. However, border personnel allow carrying of clear plastic bags with few snacks, water, childrens food etc. The restrictions are usually dependant on the crowd and perceived security alertness on that day.

    For tourists coming in to see the ceremony, note that the taxi/cars need to be parked about 500m away from the entry gates to the border area. You will need to walk in and reach the visitor gallery.

    Be prepared for minor traffic jams when the ceremony has finished as up to 200-300 vehicles try and exit around the same time. The main road to Wagah is being widened to a 4 lane one, and should be ready by Jun 09.

  • There are no tickets to see this event, it is free for viewing for anyone on the Indian side as of Jan 09.
  • Do

    Relax at nearby Jallo Park, or enjoy in Suzo Water Park.

    Buy

  • You can buy some snacks/drinks at the entry gate and also along the roadside as you are walking the 500 or so metres to the seating area.
  • Lot of local boys sell DVDs of the ceremony, selling for about Rs. 20 (< US $1). Be careful of pickpockets.
  • Eat

    There is an official tourist center, called "Aman Umeed" at the entry gate. It is a nice clean facility with bathrooms etc and has comfortable seating, although food options are very limited inside.

    However, there are 2-3 large local food stalls outside the gate opposite the tourist center which serve food, offer packaged snacks and soft drinks. You can take these inside when you watch the ceremony.

    Drink

    Sleep

    Contact

    Note that cellphones may not work here, as calls/SMSs are jammed.

    Get out