Understand
Fez is the medieval capital of Morocco, and a great city of high Islamic civilization. Fez has the best-preserved old city in the Arab world, the sprawling, labyrinthine medina of Fes el-Bali, which is incidentally also the world's largest car-free urban zone.
Get in
By plane
'''Royal Air Maroc''' offers daily flights from Casablanca and Paris-Orly to Fes-Saiss airport.
'''Jet4You''' flies from Paris-Orly to Fez.
'''Ryanair''' offers flights from Girona (Barcelona), Frankfurt (Hahn), Milano (Bergamo), Charleroi (Brussels) and Marseille to Fez, though not on a daily basis. From July 2009 Ryan air start direct flrights to Fez from Alicante also once a week on Sundays to start.
By train
There is regular train service along the Marrakech to Oujda and Tangier to Oujda train lines.
From Marrakech, the trip is about seven hours and fifteen minutes and costs exactly 276/180 dirhams. (First class / second class)
The trip from Casablanca takes about 4 hours and costs 155/103 dirhams. (First class / second class)
From Rabat takes about three and a half hours and costs 75-105 dirhams.
A petit taxi between the train station and Bab Boujeloud costs about 10Dh with taxi meter. Insist on using the meter, if necessary, say "khdm l-koontoor" (Work the counter) to the taxi driver.
By car
Fez is about 4 hours' drive by car from Casablanca. The stretch of toll highway from Rabat to Fez is in superb condition.
Traveling by grand taxi (inter-city taxi), though more expensive than trains, is viable for tourists. Seats in a taxi are sold individually, in order to travel in relative comfort, you may need to purchase more than one seat. A ride from Fez to Casablanca costs approximately 60-80 dirhams per seat. Note that grand taxi fares are regulated and it is worth checking the official rates with the tourist board, as some drivers or hotels will quote inflated prices.
Within Fez, ride in the petits taxis (local taxis) rarely cost more that 15-20 dirhams. However, the medina of Fes el-Bali is only accessible from a few points by car. Bab Boujeloud and nearby Place Batha are popular dropoff points, as is Place R'cif; for parking there is spaces at Ain Zleten on the northeast edge of the medina. Another openair parking is situated near Hotel Batha (price 20 Dhs / day). If you stay longer than 1 day don't pay in advance.
By bus
The old bus terminal ("gare routiere") is just outside the old city on the north side, near the Ain Zleten entrance to the medina. Grands taxis (inter-city taxis) can also be obtained here. The CTM terminal ("gare CTM") is in the Atlas neighborhood of the ville nouvelle, 7 km from the medina, but has taxi stands nearby. While the gare routiere covers more routes more cheaply, many travelers prefer CTM for its reliability and cleanliness.
Get around
Ignore the travel guides that tell you that you'll get lost in the '''medina''' and that you must hire a guide. If you are particularly worried, be sure to arrange a licensed guide through your hotel or the tourism office - they will be able to give you an accurate history and will make fewer shopping stops. The faux-guides in particular will simply take you from shop to shop where you will be pressured to buy goods, which will cost you extra because the seller will be obliged to pay the guide a hidden commission.
There are some basic landmarks that you can use to get around, and there is a path network marked by signs perched on walls. These signs have a 8-point star shape which will guide you between the main places in the medina. If you are lost you only have to find one of these signs and follow it in any direction until you arrive to a map or a known place. You may also find it useful to carry a compass, as the narrow, built-up streets can block the view of landmarks and be disorienting. Alternatively, just keep heading downhill and you will eventually get to a gate. The main street is the Talaa Kbira, which runs from Bab Boujloud to the Karaouiyne mosque in the heart of the medina. The Talaa Sghira also begins at Bab Boujeloud and eventually merges back into the Talaa Kbira. Once you get into the narrow, windy heart of the medina, you can also find your way out again by constantly heading downhill, which will eventually lead to the Place R'cif, a dropoff for buses and taxis, where you can get a petit taxi out of the medina.
For more detailed tours and directions, look for the book ''Fez from Bab to Bab'' (Hammad Berrada). It has a complete map of the medina and several well-described walking tours. It can be found in most bookshops, both on the Talaa Sghira or at the large bookstore on the Avenue Hassan II in the ville nouvelle. However, be discreet taking out your map or you will have many offers from false guides!
See
Just walking around, you will see a great deal!
Get a shave in the medina, nowhere is it cheaper than here, and they really pay attention, even trimming your hair.
In the midst of the maze-like medina are the colorful leather-dying pits. Any number of young boys will offer to guide you to them: just listen for "you want to see the tanneries?" The tour is free (though it is appropriate to offer 1-5 dirhams to your "guide").
No chance of getting to see the tanneries by yourself, instead, be prepared for physical abuse for even trying! However, just 10m left of the entrance is a fabulous leather shop owner that gladly offers views to the tannery free of charge and no hassle at all, and you can see it all from his balcony!
It is possible to get into the tannery itself, hang around near the entrance until someone offers to take you in for 10 dirham. He will get you past the entrance and then you can wander in amongst the workers. A word of advice...wear closed shoes and maybe bring a mint leaf to sniff if you have a weak stomach.
'''Bou Inania madersa''': a breathtaking 14th-century religious college. The best example of Islamic architecture a non-Muslim can see in Fez, with wooden walls elaborately carved with geometric patterns and Arabic calligraphy, and a beautiful minaret. In the courtyard there is a portico with a still-functioning mosque, separated by the rest of the courtyard by a small moat.
The view from the hills surrounding the old city is spectacular- there are two fortresses overlooking the old city, the Borj Nord which contains an armaments museum, and the Borj Sud, which is being developed for tourism.
The '''Merenid Tombs''' next to the Merenid Hotel, provide excellent panoramic views over the medina and the wider city, as well as the olive tree lined hills surrounding the city, and sanctuary from the bustle of the rest of the city. Beware of the odd opportunistic tout.
The Sofitel Palais Jamai terrace has an incredible view over the medina if you are willing to pay 30 dirhams for a glass of tea in order to access it. This is particularly worthwhile if you can time your visit to coincide with the call to prayer, as you can hear multiple minarets from the terrace.
Entrance to the '''Moulay Idriss II shrine''', the tomb of Fez's founder, is limited to Muslims, but the view from just outside its doors is still well-worth hunting down. The mosque is just off the Talaa Kbira near the Souk Attarine.
Similarly, the '''Qaraouyine''' library and mosque and the '''al-Tijani mosque''' have beautifully decorated exteriors and worth a visit even by those who cannot enter them.
Do
One of the most fascinating activities to do in Fez is a trip in the '''medina''' (Old City). The medina is so complex to navigate that sometimes it's easier to simply lose yourself in the hustle and bustle of the various markets, and find your way out once you have had enough of all the sights, sounds, and smells that will overwhelm your senses. You will eventually find your way out via lots of dried fruit, leather goods, ceramics, textiles and food stalls!
Make sure you find an opportunity to escape from the bustle of the streets and see the '''medina''' from one of its rooftops - some shops and restaurants have rooftop terraces (see the food section below for some useful tips). The views are particularly spectacular during sunset and after dark.
The '''Berber pharmacy''' in the Medina has hundreds of jars of twisted root and twig neatly lined up along the walls. ''Don't eat the seed-pod like things the proprietor offers you.'' Although he's eating them also, they are ''very'' high in estrogen and can cause a man's nipples to be sore for several days afterwards.
The '''tannery''' in the medina features leather-making techniques unchanged since the Middle Ages. Men walk the narrow paths between huge vats of lye and colorful dyes, water wheels creak as the leather is rinsed, and buildings facing the tannery are covered with pelts hanging to dry. Visit early in the morning before the sun hits the tannery and the stench sets in.
There are several well-marked trails through the city: follow the green (Andalusian palaces and gardens), orange (walls and fortifications), or blue signs and you won't get lost in all the narrow twisting streets.
Learn
The '''Arabic Language Institute in Fez''', ''+212 35'' 62 48 50 (fax ''+212 35'' 93 16 08, <info@alif-fes.com>), [http://www.alif-fes.com/] offers high quality three-week and six-week courses in Arabic, both Modern Standard Arabic and the Moroccan colloquial language. The Institute can also arrange accommodation with a Moroccan host family for their students if required.
Work
Buy
As a rough guide, you can expect to pay:
Leather satchel: Dh 200 - Dh 400 depending on quality
Drums: Dh 30 - Dh 150 depending on size and quality
''Tagine'' dish (see picture): 10 Dh - 20 Dh for a full size ''tagine'' dish, plus an extra Dh 10 if it's been varnished and / or decorated.
If you're interested in the cobalt-blue ceramic, you might go to the potteries where they make it. It's really cool to see how they model the clay into a tagine in 45 seconds. From Bab el-Ftouh, it's a 5 dirham taxi. Ask the driver to take you to "Les potteries de Fez". There're 2 big "factories", both show you the whole process if you want or you could just see the exhibition (and buy). Bargain ''really'' hard, prices seem to be fixed, but they are not at all!
Made in M. alaa Kabira. Unique boutic to find good quality articles as leader, passementerie, design ceramic, parfums, argan oil...
Eat
Mezzanine. 7, Kasbat Chams. n front of the jnaj sbil garden, less than 50 meters from the place Boujeloud. 21211078336. ww.restaurantfez.com. Set over three floors, with an additional outside patio,Mezzanine offers both a cosy lounge bar for a quiet cocktail tapas as well as a confortable larger seating area for dinners and parties.
Fully wifid Mezzanine transforms from a day time lounge into one of Fez most cosmopolitan dinner, music and venues.
This very nice tapas lounge bar offers a very nice music with it s residant dj.
Also, from 12 until 02am enjoy the tapas, ceasar salad, morrocan briouats, salads and don t forget the cheese cake and lemon tarte.</eat>
L'Ambre. 001. iad Fes, 5Derb Ben Slimane Zerbtana. 212 35 74 12 06. ww.restaurantfes.com. In the heart of a medieval city known for its diverse savory eateries, L'Ambre offers a dining experience that should not be missed when visiting Fez. A delightful selection of Moroccan cuisine with an original twist is served in any of our three dining rooms, in the garden or on the roof terrace.
L'Ambre : Clean oriental lines with artfully contemporary touches set the stage for a stately and elegant dining experience.
L'Oriental and Le salon Oriental provide the ultimate setting for a traditional Moroccan diner in a Moorish atmosphere with intricately carved stucco and wooden ceilings.
</eat>
Budget
'''Le Kasbah''' (near Bab Boujloud). Friendly service, a solid selection of inexpensive Moroccan staples (excellent vegetarian tagine) and a couple of lovely high terraces overlooking the Gate on one side and the medina on the other, makes it a comfortable atmospheric place to chat to other travellers and its a welcome haven from the bustle of the crowded streets of the medina. Street food is allow to eat at the terraces. You pay only the service for the drink.
'''Fez Lounge'''(Down the Tala Kbira, on a tiny street on your right)or F Lounge; is the new addition to the medina scene. With walls in dark grey tadelakt and an ambiance of an ultracontemporary arab dream, Fez Lounge is highly recomended for its mediterranean inspired tapas such as Camembert bruschetta with walnuts and balsamic vinegar or for its reputed warm Brownie with chocolate.Traditional moroccan dishes like Pastilla and tajines are also available. Owned by an italian, you can feel its style from the design of the tables to the dim lighting or the Hotel Costes Music, and dont be surprise if you end up lounging in the zen beds smoking a shisha and chatting with your neighbour about the benefits of being lazy.)95, Zkak Rouah- Tala Kbira www.fezlounge.com
'''Cafe Medina''' (near Bab Boujloud). Tasty and cosy cafe-style restaurant, maybe too touristy. Food is fine, specially the "boricuas" (deep fried thin dough layers wrapping meat-chicken-rice fillings). Mains starting in 60dh.
'''Restaurant Bouinania''' (near Bab Boujloud). Enjoy lunch on the terrace or a leisurely dinner on the carpet-adorned second floor. The service is very friendly and more than willing to fire up the grill to make you the first ''brochettes'' of the day. Tagine, couscous, and other staples are well-done and offered for around 40 dh, but prices are negotiable down to 25 dh.
'''Le Kasbah''' (Bab Boujloud) has 2 nice terraces, a set menu or a la carte dishes. If you're tired of potatoes everywhere, try the grilled lamb chops and ask the waiter to change the french fries and rice for salad. Great for lunch!
'''Cafe Clock''' (near Bab Boujloud) Magnificenty restored house in the old medina, turned into a cafe. The people are friendly (and speak English) and the food is excellent. Ask to be seated on the terrace, and listen for the call to prayer coming from several minarets in the area. Bring a camera, especially during the day.
Ville Nouvelle
'''Casa Nostra''' - For pizza, you can try this Italian restaurant, 1 block from Hasan II and Mohammed V.
Mid-range
'''Le Palais de Fes''' - also known as Dar Tazi (Place R'cif). A rooftop restaurant over a carpet shop, Dar Tazi offers Fez's best pastilla and other traditional dishes. The stairs up are steep and narrow and dinner runs about 350dh per person, but the food and view are well worth it.
'''Palais des Merinides''' (Talaa Kbira). Table d'hote menus with basic Moroccan specialties in a very grand setting. Decent quality, but fabulous surroundings.
San Remo. Fed up with Couscous and Tajine, then you could try this Morocco owned Italian restaurant in the new part of town. Just opposite the police station, it offers a lovely Italian deli and numerous pasta and pizza dishes for a decent price.
Splurge
'''Dar Saada Restaurant''' [http://www.restaurantdarsaadafez.com] Located in the centre of the medina.
L'Ambre: www.restaurantfes.com, located in the heart of the medina.
Drink
Almost all drinking establishments in Fez are hotel bars. The rest are local bars that women and anyone without a good command of Arabic might be uncomfortable entering. In bars of either type, prostitutes are frequent but mostly ignore western travellers. Fes is a much more traditional town than Casablanca or Marrakesh, and it is technical illegal to drink in public. Purchasing alcohol or seeming intoxicated are sure to draw stern looks from passersby.
'''The Bar at Hotel Batha''' Place Batha. In the rear of Hotel Batha are two bars - the first is more of a lounge, with comfortbale leather chairs and fireplaces. It is definitely the more stately of the two options. In the rear is a night-club type bar, with pounding music, that starts to fill up around 10pm.
'''Restaurant International''', The Car Park at Av. Abdellah Chefchawni. This little place is easy to overlook, but the fact that the outer windows are mirrored should be the first indication it won't be at the top of any tourist routes. The crowd here is all local, and foreigners might expect a few stares and side looks. They serve the basic selection of beer, as well as some of the best spaghetti and pizza in town. Three stories, but avoid the middle one - the band is usually blasting bad synthesizer-Arabic music. Also avoid the basement, unless you're looking for prostitutes.
'''The White Souk / Marche Centrale''', on Blvd Mohammed V is a good place to find alcohol if you prefer to drink at home. There are two brick-and-mortar liquor stores on either side of the Souk, and many of the vendors inside keep descrete stashes for thirsty foreigners.
Mezzanine. ww;restaurantfez.com. Set over three floors, with an additional outside patio,Mezzanine offers both a cosy lounge bar for a quiet cocktail tapas as well as a confortable larger seating area for dinners and parties.
Fully wifi d, Mezzanine transforms from a day time lounge into one of Fez most cosmopolitan dinner, music and venues with it s resident dj.
Open from 12 until 02 pm non stop.
Enjoy a coktail, beer or wine on the terrace. It s really unique</drink>
L'Alcazar Bar. iad Fes, 5 Derb Ben Slimane Zerbtana. ww.restaurantfes.com. After a high-energy day in the Medina, L'Alcazar Bar is a comfortable oasis of relaxation and refreshment, the perfect backdrop for a memorable moment with friends and family.
A stylish lounge area where stunning design is combined with a warm atmosphere exuding an oriental yet contemporary feel.
The lounge bar and fumoir feature a vast choice of cocktails, malt, cognac, wines but also a selection of cigars. </drink>
Sleep
Riad Reviews. ttp://www.riadreviews.com/cities/Riad_Hotels_in_Fes_Morocco.html. Information on riads in Fes including contact information, pictures, traveler reviews and ability to search by amenity or riad type.
</sleep>
Riad Fes. 001. Derb Ben Slimane Zerbtana. 212 35 94 76 10. ww.riadfes.com. .00PM. 2.00PM. Riad Fes is renowned for its luxury, impeccable service and fine restaurant.Its Andalous pavilion and lounge have brought an even more vibrant edge to Fez_fs most stylish Riad.
With spectacular views of the Medina and the Atlas Mountains, Riad Fez is ideal for those travelling for business or pleasure.</sleep>
Riad Tizwa. 5 Derb Gurebba , Batha. 212 66190872 London +447973238444. ww.riadtizwa.com. Riad Tizwa is Morocco's FIRST recognised environmental riad (by Clef Verte) a traditional Moroccan home in the heart of the medina. Five double bedrooms and English speaking staff makes for good service. Easy to find in the best area of the old town of Fes, the riad has wonderful freshly made breakfasts, a lovely roof terrace to relax on, and nice touches like handmade soap, rose petals, and a great selection of tasty Moroccan food.
Budget
'''Camping Diamant Vert''', Rue Ain Chkef. Decent amount of shade, french toilets and (sometimes warm) showers. 25 Dh a person, 15 Dh per tent. Free access to the swimming pool.
'''HI youth hostel''', 18 Rue Abdeslam Serghini. Clean, bright, friendly and well placed in the ''ville nouvelle''. Unfortunately there is a debilitating 10 pm curfew and a five hour lockout. Dorms / twins with shared bath from Dh 45 / Dh 55, plus Dh 5 surcharge for non HI members.
'''Hotel Cascades''' (near Bab Boud Jeloud - main gate) in the Medina. The rooms are clean, noisy and simple. There is a shared bathroom on the first floor. A double costs 150 dh / night, this makes it cheaper than the youth hostel with a better location and no lockout. Sleeping on the terrace, recommended by some, is not advisable due to midday heat, lack of space during the day, and lack of security for luggage.
'''Hotel Erraha''' (near Bab Boud Jeloud - main gate) in the Medina. Ugly and noisy, not absolutely clean but could serve for a night if you don't find another place, 100 Dhs. One of the employees, Mohammad, is a good man, and will gladly tell you about the history of Fes, and help you out if you need anything.
'''Hotel Mauritania''' (near Bab Boud Jeloud - main gate) next to the Cascade, ugly and dark, I didn't want to see the rooms when I was there.
There are a few more hostels near the main gate walking down any of the two parallel main streets, but not many of them. Try to arrive well before dark, I can't say it is dangerous, but it can be very stressful to find a bed in this area. The streets beyond the two main ones can be frightening at night.
'''Pension Batha''', (100-250 Dhs) 8 Sidi Lkhayat Batha, Fax: 05-574-1150, just across from Hotel Batha, around the corner from Bab Boud Ganoush. It has limited rooms, and fills up quickly, but they are clean and include private bathroom. It comes with breakfast on a nice (but small) terrace on the top floor. Double Room with bathroom 250 Dhs. Breakfast very simple but OK. Ask for Laila (english spoken).
'''ChezMaMounia - Bed And Breakfast''', (34-55 $) [http://www.chezmamounia.com www.chezmamounia.com] Avenue Saint Louis, Tel: 06-68076175, Behind Hotel Jnan Fes Palace. For those who want to discover or rediscover the magic city of Fez and that in an authentic
Moroccan family, our family open the doors of his house.
Mid-range
'''Dar Bennis''': traditional 18th century house (riad) in the Medina for vacation or holiday rental for up to five people, starting at 80 euros for entire house. This website [http://www.houseinfez.com/] also has lots of information about Fez museums, architecture, restaurants, real estate & monuments.
'''Hotel Batha''': (near Bab Boud Jeloud beside Post Office) Tourist Hotel in font of Pension Batha. Almost full. About 520 Dhm for double room with bathroom. The price is very high for the quality. The outside of the hotel is great but the room are very basic and old.
Splurge
There are a growing number of beautiful, comfortable guest-houses ("riads") in the medina of Fes el-Bali. They are expensive by Moroccan standards but offer luxury for about the price of a North American chain hotel. Some European proprietors prey on Westerners' culture-shock to direct business toward favored or overpriced services, so it is worth doing your research before going.
''www.rentinfez.com'' rent a tradicional house in the Fez Medina.
Riad Fes, 5* Guesthouse with Traditional and Modern Decoration
''Riad Arabesque''' [http://www.arabesquehotelfez.com]. Traditional hotel.
'''Best of Morocco''' [http://www.morocco-travel.com/morocco/HotelsAndRiads/FesRiadsAndHotels.html] offer a range of upmarket hotels and riads in Fez.
Contact
www.fezguide.com
On how to enjoy Fez in style.
www.riadfes.com
Stay safe
Fez is safe, but crowded. Take standard precautions regarding wallet, purse, etc. If you hear "Belek! Belek!" behind you, stand aside because a heavily-laden donkey is bearing down on you! Appear to know where you are going, even if you don't, or you will get offers from false guides. False guides are not dangerous but they can be exasperatingly tenacious. Best technique is to not even acknowledge their presence. That is rude and they won't be pleased, but it is better than to have them walk with you for half an hour. If you have to ask directions ask to someone that is obviously busy in his own business and try to appear as sure as you can of the way you are going ("This way to R'cif, right?"). Getting caught with a faux guide will cost you, but it will cost the faux guide more: they can receive up to 2 days imprisonment if they get caught. Cops are often in plain clothes, so be wary! A useful strategy will false guides is to say all the lines they have been taught before they have said them to show you know what you are doing; they all say the same thing so just learn it and repeat.
You should also beware of hustlers (aka con-artists); Fez has a far larger number of them than almost everywhere else and they use more sophisticated techniques. An example of a prominent scam occurs where you come into Fez by train and someone talks to you saying he is coming to visit his relatives, and is actually a respectable outsider (e.g. an owner of a hotel). He will then ask you to come eat with his relatives and when you get there they will spend most of the time trying to suggest accommodation, offering you tours where they gain commission from all the shops and even organising expensive desert excursions that are actually just you driving in circles just outside the city for three days.
Cope
For a North American traveller, Fez requires a real change of outlook or it will be a very high-stress trip! Shopkeepers and guides are very assertive and you will have to get used to saying "no" a lot. On the other hand, they can be genuinely warm and friendly even while trying to sell you something, an idea that is pretty alien to North Americans where it is assumed that a business relationship is the opposite of sincerity!
Non-Muslims are not allowed to visit mosques, although they can visit the medersas (religious schools). In the busiest part of the medina, there is a lane that is blocked by a wooden beam at eye-level. It is a very busy intersection but the beam indicates the precinct of a revered shrine, and non-Muslims are not supposed to pass it. It is likely you will be tut-tutted if you do!
Bargaining is a way of life that has survived for centuries, and shows no sign of changing. Moroccans even bargain among each other for everything except perhaps their utilities. Don't believe anyone (and you will hear it all the time) who tells you prices are being "regulated". Every other souk claims to be a "Government Regulated Co-op".
There is a single, genuine government-regulated fixed price shop in the Ville Nouvelle where all prices are posted, the goods are of decent (if not amazing) quality, and the single bored cashier will just stare incredulously at you if you attempt to bargain with him. Ask any hotel manager or petit taxi driver to take you to the "Artisana." All products sold in Artisanas come directly from the artists who made the products.
Get out
Alternatively, '''Meknes''' itself is worth a visit, if only due to its calmer and less crowded medina, which has ample shopping opportunities.
(
Going from Fez to Rissani (Merzouga is another 30km taxi ride after Rissani) there is one CTM bus a day. It leaves the Fez bus station at 9pm.
You can leave Fes by train in the direction of Tanger (~5 hrs; 97dh/145dh) or towards Marrakech (~7 hrs; 180dh/276dh; passing by Rabat and Casablanca).