'''Darjeeling''' is in a small city in West Bengal, India.
Understand
Originally just a cluster of villages that was administered intermittently by Nepal and Sikkim, Darjeeling grew in prominence during the mid 19th century when, because of its climate, the British first established a hill station there after leasing it from the Chogyal of Sikkim and later discovered that the area was particularly well suited for tea plantations. In 1849, the British annexed the area and Darjeeling became a part of British India. The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway was opened in 1881 (it is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site) and the town became the de-facto summer capital of India during the days when the Raj was governed from Calcutta.
Because it was a popular hill station during the days of the Raj, a lovely Victorian town was built among the Himalayan foothills, the remnants of which are still visible around the Chowrasta and Darjeeling remains a popular summer and fall resort for the natives of Kolkata today. For foreign tourists, the main attractions are the cultural diversity (many Tibetan refugees moved here after Tibet was annexed by China and they co-exist with the descendants of the many Nepali and Bihari laborers brought to work in the tea plantations), the beautiful views (including the wonderful vista view of Kanchenjunga), a variety of trekking options, and the opportunity to cool down after a stint in the plains. The town is also a jumping off point for travelers heading to Sikkim.
There has been intermittent political action from Gorkha groups demanding an independent state (Gorkhaland). In june 2008 a strike paralyzed the area, with closed hotels, restaurants and shops, and the accompanying protests even turned violent a couple of times. Though inconvenient, tourists generally are not at risk, but recently they do check the status before going here.
Get in
By plane
The nearest airport is Bagdogra, near Siliguri, 96 km from Darjeeling.
'''Air India''' (fomerly Indian Airlines), India's largest airline, has flights from:
Delhi - IC 880 (Tu/Th/Sat) and IC 879 (Mon/Fri - via Guwahati)
Guwahati - IC 879 (Mon/Fri)
Kolkata - IC 721 (Tu/Th/Sat)
'''Jet Airways''', a private airline, has flights from:
Delhi - 9W 601 (Mon/Wed/Fri - Via Guwahati) and 9W 602 (Tu/Th/Sat/Sun)
Guwahati 9W 601 (Mon/Wed/Fri)
Kolkata 9W 617 (Daily)
'''Spice Jet''' also operates flights from Kolkata & Delhi.
'''Air Deccan''' also known as Kingfisher red, runs budget flights to and from Bagdogra from Delhi, Guwahati and Calcutta.
All other cities major cities can be accessed by taking a flight to Delhi/Kolkata and connecting.
By taxi/shared jeep
Siliguri is the nearest town connected to the mainline rail network. Ample transport is available to Darjeeling from here. The most popular modes of transport are taxi (usually shared by three to four passengers), shared jeep (ten passengers) @Rs.120/-.
Shared jeeps depart regularly, from several locations around town. They leave when full, and are a cheap, fast and reasonably comfortable way to get to Darjeeling.
If you have arrived by train at NJP, you can take a taxi or shared jeep to reach Darjeeling from the booking counter at the taxi stand in front of the railway station. There is also a prepaid taxi stand in front of the train station. Note that if you arrive too late for the jeep to make a return journey from Darjeeling, you may end up paying more, e.g. Rs.200 per person. The prepaid counter will tell you that no jeeps are available, so you'll have to find one via a fixer or by negotiating directly with drivers.
Tourists often opt to buy an extra seat or two to have more space for the 3 hour journey up to Darjeeling! Luggage is carried for free on the roof. Jeeps may stop for a snack and toilet break on the way up (normally a few km short of Kurseong).
By bus
There is a regular bus service from Silguri to Darjeeling. However, they are quite slow due to the steep, twisty climb up to Darjeeling. Shared jeeps are almost as cheap, and faster.
By train
New Jalpaiguri (NJP) near Siliguri is the nearest station on the main inter-city line. Direct trains to NJP run from Delhi (approx 27 hours) several times a day. If you are traveling from Kolkata the best train for you will be Darjeeling Mail (circa 12 hours). From there, the famous Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, known to all as the 'Toy Train' completes the journey to Darjeeling. This route is very popular with tourists as it passes through some very picturesque mountain scenery and has been the subject of many romantic articles. The line has a series of zig zags and loops to gain height and runs straight up several village main streets! Trains depart NJP at 9 a.m. and arrive in Darjeeling at 3:30. Now the train is diesel hauled is reasonably reliable and punctual. The steam 'Joy' train operates from Darjeeling to Ghoom round the famous Batasia Loop, once or twice a day ? enquire at Darjeeling station. Costs about Rps250(First class)/Rps 50(General Class). A steam train also operates Siliguri to 'Agony Point' above Tindharia most Saturdays and Sundays. Enquire to Siliguri station.
There is also a daily 'School Train' that leaves Kurseong at 06:15 arriving Darjeeling at 08:45. It leaves Darjeeling at 16:00 arriving Kurseong at 18:30.
This is still hauled by a steam engine and is one of the last 'day to day'/ordinary steam trains running anywhere in the world. IR keeps changing the times for it and it is notoriously unreliable often running hours late.
Get around
Darjeeling is a small town and the salubrious climate means walks around town are an extremely enjoyable means of getting around. For longer trips, taxis are available in stands near the entrance to the Mall.
See
'''Himalayan Mountaineering Institute''' (HMI)
'''Himalayan Zoo''' - Padmaja Naidu Zoological Park (shares the premises of HMI), It has a good collection of animals found in himalayan region.
'''Buddhist monasteries'''
'''Japanese Peace pagoda'''
'''Mount Kanchenjunga''' - the world's 3rd highest mountain, best seen at dawn from Tiger Hill (check out the weather as best you can though, a cloudy day can ruin the effort of getting up at 0300 hrs. Also for traffic jams, can take hours in the morning rush when almost all the taxis here are at the Tiger Hill)
'''The Darjeeling Rungeet Valley Ropeway''' Is closed at the moment (Dec 2008).
'''Deolo Hill, Kalimpong''' This is a must see for all the nature lovers visiting Darjeeling. The view of tea gardens from a park on the top of this hill will sweep you off your feet. You will find yourself in a garden on the top of the hill. You'll be surrounded on all sides by tea gardens going thousands of feet deep, and the entire picturesque landscape guarded well on all sides by high rise mountains. Kalimpong is a little warmer than Darjeeling. On your way from Darjeeling to Kalimpong, you will come across many hill points and a picturesque view of river Teesta. You can enjoy rafting on the river, if you have enough number of enthusiasts in the group.
'''Mirik''' - The lake of Mirik is a nice stretch of water where you can enjoy horse riding and boating. You will be chased by a number of horse riders who will offer you an affordable ride on the horse, even if you don't want one. The best way to avoid them quickly is to tell them that you will take a ride after boating and lunch. Some riverside restaurants can offer average quality meals.
'''Tiger Hill''' - Ideal to visit early morning when the first rays of the sun kiss the Mt Kanchenjunga and give it a golden color. To visit the hill, one needs to get up at 3:00 am in the morning. You can taste some excellent tea on your way to the hill, which will provide much needed warmth on cold Darjeeling mornings. When getting into a taxi at 4AM keep in mind that they are shared taxis and your driver might wait around in vain for others to join your taxi causing you to miss the sunrise! Those travelling alone or as a couple might want to squeeze into an already occupied jeep to insure full viewing pleasure. Though it has executive lounge (Rs.40/- per person) and special lounge (Rs.30/- per person), nothing beats having view from open area as you can have a full paranomic view from outside avoiding crowd in the lounge.
Do
Darjeeling is one of the oldest hill stations in India, and has plenty of options, both for those seeking a lazy getaway from the hot plains, as well as nature enthusiasts and adrenaline junkies. Apart from sights within the town, there are plenty of trek options along the Himalayan ridges on the Indo-Nepal border near Darjeeling. The most popular one being the Singhalia Ridge Trail. Bookings for guides, porters and accommodation on the trail can be made in Darjeeling or in the nearby town of Manebhanjang, which serves as the trail-head. Be aware that from july to mid-september the Singalia park is closed, but because of the rain, clouds and fog it is less enjoyable anyway.
Shruberry Health Club. less visited but offers unique and charming views of Kanchenjunga.Few locals can been found jogging here and offering prayers to various objects
Singalila National Park. est of Darjeeling, adjacent to Nepalese border. Singalila is a trekking destination in the far northwest corner of West Bengal state. Kanchenjunga, the world's 3rd highest peak, is visible for much of the trek, to the north, on the Nepalese border with Sikkim. Usually the park is accessed from Maneybhanjang, approx. one hour, or 30 km. west of Darjeeling. The park can also be accessed from Rimbik, where many trekkers finish up, or from Bijanbari, with one extra day's walking. Trekkers must pay a 100rp fee to enter the park, and must hire a guide. Porters can also be hired in Maneybhanjeng. Many trekkers sign up for a 3, 5 or 6 day trek in Darjeeling, where various trekking companies make all of the arrangements. Passports must be carried, as the trek crosses briefly into Nepal, then back into India. Sleeping bags and layered warm clothing are a must, as the temperature dips well below freezing most nights. Overnight lodging is done at assorted huts or simple guesthouses along the way, and hot meals are available at the same. Starting from Maneybhanjang, most trekkers stay overnight in Gairbas or Kalipokhari, and press on to Sandakphu for the 2nd night. Sandakphu at 3636 meters, is a favorite spot to view the high Himalayan peaks of LLotze, Everest, Makalu, etc., in early morning when visibility is good. 3 day trekkers turn aside and head downhill to Rimbik for their final night, while others head further north for spectacular views from Sabarkum and Phalut, then downhill for Raman, and finish in Rimbik for the last night. For greater cash outlay, non-trekkers, or those pressed for time can hire a jeep as transport from Maneybhanjang to Sandakphu, and stay overnight to catch the sunrise views. The ideal time to visit is April or May, in spring when the rhododendrons are in bloom, but Singalila can also be done in the fall, after monsoon season.
Buy
'''Tea'''. Darjeeling is famous the world over for its teas, which are very aromatic and have a delicate taste. Shops selling teas (usually owned by local tea gardens), dot the area in and around the Mall. Nathmulls is especially known for their tea and also ship worldwide. Stop by to smell the numerous varieties they have to offer.
'''Curio items''' pertaining to '''Tibetan and Himalayan cultures''', such as ''thangkas'', miniature monasteries and garments made from yak wool.
'''Books''', Oxford Bookshop, Chowrashtra. Excellent selection of titles.
'''Posters and picture postcards''', Das photo, the Mall. Excellent selection of posters and cards depicting scenes of the Himalayas.
Eat
'Momos' ? a steamed Tibetan delicacy are a staple food offered by almost every eating joint. Several eateries which dish out North Indian, Nepali, Tibetan, and continental fare dot the area around the Mall.
'''Glenary's Bakery and Cafe'''. A good place for cakes, pastries, the ubiquitous Darjeeling cuppa, sizzerlers and North Indian fare. Offers nice views of Mt Kanchendjunga on clear days.
'''Hot Stimulating Cafe'''. On the way to Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, on Hooker Road, is this lovely little cozy place. The Momos here are awesome! They even offer a Momo-cooking course! The guy who owns it can double up as your local guide, trekking along with you to some adventurous outings from Darjeeling.
'''Hotel Lunar'''. This is probably the best vegetarian restaurants in town where you can enjoy a great view and wonderful service.
'''Hotel Chanakya'''. If you are looking for a authentic Bengali restaurants in town where you can enjoy both veg and nonveg dishes then this is the place where you should go.
'''Kunga'''. An excellent Tibetan place, situated just above the clocktower. It serves superb tibetan food, including hearty tibetan soups (the Thentuk is recommended). It is, however, tiny, so is often full.
The Park. 0 meters from the clock tower. s 90-150. Located near the clock tower this restaurant is especially popular with tourists. They have two menu cards, one thai and the other indian, and the cook mastered both cuisines.
One major problem is everything closes pretty early in the night (9 PM). So do keep something in stock to eat, if you are planning to stay up late.
Drink
'''Tea''' ? Darjeeling tea is world renowned after all.
'''Joey's Pub''' ? Pop into Joey's Pub for some cheap beer, great hospitality, cricket on TV etc. A British-looking pub popular with travellers.
Sleep
There are several forest guest houses in the Darjeeling area, although in order to stay at any of these a special permit from West Bengal Forest Department is required.
Budget
There are about 200 hotels and lodges in Darjeeling. So you can get a room easily for different budgets. However, on the whole budget accommodation is poor value compared to elsewhere in India. [This section seems to contain commercial plugs and needs editing to restore balance]
Hotel Aliment. 0AM. s 250-600. Due to it's location on the top of the hill the views are nice, but the 15min walk from the clocktower is quite steep. In some double rooms there is hot water from 6.30-7.30PM, but they can fill up a bucket with hot water the rest of the day. There is also a simple restaurant, which is also the home of an impressive library.
Birds Eye View. oon. s 500+. Bird_fs Eye View is by far and away Darjeeling_fs BEST budget hotel since its opening in October 2008. The views from this hotel are unmatched by any other hotel in Darjeeling. The open dining room windows stretching ALL the way across the front and sides of the hotel offer unimpeded views of sprawling Darjeeling below with the spectacular panoramic Kanchanjunga backdrop. The huge roof-top patio has similar views and is the best place to watch both sunrise and sunset. Up here at night, the kind and friendly hotel manager, Uttam Waiba gets a small fire going to keep you warm as you enjoy a beer or tea, the moon-lit views of Kanchanjunga and the sea of lights scattered lights throughout the surrounding hills. When staying here there is no need to get up early and join the crowds at Tiger Hill since the views from the hotel are equal if not better. All the rooms are extremely clean and have different vibrantly painted walls and large, comfy beds (both single and double). 4 out of the 5 rooms have exceptionally clean attached bathrooms (with western-style toilets). The hotel is located on Dr. Zakir Hussain Road near the top of the hill on the south end of Darjeeling. From the jeep drop off and train station it is _gup to the very top and then keep going right_h. You can call Uttam Waiba at (+91) 977 597 2955 to reserve a room.
Mid range
Darjeeling Tourist Lodge. hanu Sarani. minutes from Mal, near Gymkhana Club. 91 354 2254411/12/13. ort1@dte.vsnl.net.in. 91 354 2254412. ll double bed rooms ? Rs.500-1600. ttp://darjeeling.gov.in/govt-accomodation.html. Property belongs to West Bengal Tourism Development Corporation and has a breathtaking location with a grand view of Kanchenjunga peak from the rooms
Hotel Sinclairs. ttp://www.sinclairshotels.com/darjeeling/index.php3. A decent accommodation, offers a view of Kunchenjunga. It has 46 beautiful rooms and suites, with satellite TV channels, telephones and attached baths with hot and cold water. The wooden interiors give it an ambience of a traditional country home. Food is excellent even in the off season.
Hawk's Nest Resort.
Hotel Dekeling. ww.dekeling.com. a nice hotel with cheap lodging facilities. Has rooms with nice views of the peak on clear days. This hotel is for those who wants to have good clean accommodation within budget.
Hotel Dil.
Hotel Fairmont. 354 2253649. s. 1050-2000.
Hotel Heritage.
Hotel Pineridge. reat location, on the chowrasta. n the left before the Mall. 25 4088. 50 to 1100. All rooms face Kanchenjungha. 033 2264=2051,329=53360 Rooms are dank & dreary with rickety old furniture. Offers a hint of the old world charm
Hotel Prince. great hotel to stay with.
Sonar Bangla. s 1050 to 2200. olkata booking. 33 2249=2716.
Hotel Sunflower.
Hotel Windamere. ttp://www.windamerehotel.com.
Jimkhana Resort. (354) 225-7325.
Swiss Hotel. A charming Colonial style hotel with own garden.
Viramma Villa. n Jalapahar Road, above TV tower.
Splurge
'''Mayfair Darjeeling''', opposite to Governor House, The Mall, 91 354 2256376, fax 91 354 2252674, email:darjeeling@mayfairhotels.com, [http://www.mayfairhotels.com/darjeeling/abouttheresort.asp]. Perched at 700 ft high, this hill resort offers breathtaking scenery & evokes memories of the royal joy. This heritage property was once the erstwhile summerhouse of the Maharajah of Nazargunj. Tariff: INR 8000.
Hotel Seven Seventeen is an ideal place to stay , the mall, the main bus and taxi stands, the local market, banks are all within easy walking distance from the hotel. Lonely Plannet- India says :- a Tibetan run place exceptionally friendly and clean. 91 354 2254717 2255099 email
manager@hotel717.com / hotel717@hotmail.com website:-www.hotel717.com
Going Back
When travelling back to the Airport (Bagdogra) or the Railway Station (NJP) you can stay at Viramma Resort a comfortable natural resort which comes on the Darjeeling Highway, five minutes before of the main city of Siliguri.
Also the scenic drive to Mirik (which is a detour to Siliguri on Darjeeling-Mirik-Siliguri). check out the Mirik lake and the monastery nearby
A great way to spend a day is to take a share-jeep to Ghoom (the next town down the valley), visit some monasteries there and walk back to Darjeeling via some of the villages.