'''Wicker Park''' is the vanguard of music, nightlife, and fashion in Chicago. This article also includes the sly, enjoyable '''Ukrainian Village''', immediately south, and pieces of the greater '''West Town''' area.

Understand

Among the most pointless topics of debate in Chicago life is whether Wicker Park has changed, is full of yuppies now, isn't what it used to be, etc. The answers are simple: yes, maybe, and who cares? Just like the Velvet Underground would have been playing stadiums if everybody who claimed to have seen them in 1967 actually did, if everybody who claims to have been there when Wicker Park was cool actually ''was'' there, it would be a city roughly the size of Cleveland.

Wicker Park was founded by the Wicker brothers in the 1870s, and it became part of the row of prosperous immigrant neighborhoods on the West Side of Chicago — the wealthy Polish beer barons of Wicker Park were neighbored by the German farmers of Bucktown, the Ukrainians in their titular Village, the Greeks and Italians of the Near West Side, and the Czechs of Pilsen. The brewery fortunes left two legacies that survive today: gorgeous, European-style mansions and apartment buildings, and a truly world-class set of dive bars. Wicker Park is uniquely well-served by transportation among West Side neighborhoods, with the CTA's Blue Line elevated train and the major arteries of North, Milwaukee, and Damen all converging upon the center of the area.

After the economic decline of the West Side, Puerto Ricans became the majority population in Wicker Park. With them came the other two elements that would turn the neighborhood's commercial fortunes around: low rents in those great buildings, and an art scene that became known for exciting new work. Artists and musicians from outside the area moved in, finding cheap studios in places like the '''Flatiron Arts Building''' and good venues to exhibit and perform like the '''Double Door''' and the excellent '''Empty Bottle'''. Among many others, the Smashing Pumpkins were formed in the area, and Liz Phair's album ''Exile in Guyville'' re-cast the Rolling Stones' Main Street in Wicker Park; on the visual arts side, the long-running '''Around the Coyote festival''' continues as an annual gathering of the neighborhood's artistic highlights. (Years later, the John Cusack film ''High Fidelity'' attempted to capture Wicker Park in all of its elitist, obnoxious, trend-setting glory, and was generally well-received. However, when MTV's ''The Real World'' arrived in 2001, it sparked off a memorable neighborhood-wide fit.)

Of course, all vinyl pants must split in the end, and by the mid-90s, real estate prices were on the rise, and bar stools were colonized by conversations about who had been priced out (the Puerto Rican artists, for one) and where the next hot scene would be (opinions vary). Demand for housing in proximity to Wicker Park turned its neighbors Bucktown and Ukrainian Village into hot residential properties, and the boundaries between neighborhoods have become less meaningful with time. There are still a few Ukrainians in what's affectionately known as The Uke, but there are only a few places where their paths cross with the condo conversion kids: aside from the sidewalks in front of the astonishing churches in the area and in line at the terrific old bakeries, all style becomes equal at the historic '''Division Street Bath House'''.

Today, a few national chains have settled in among the independent fashion boutiques in Wicker Park, but it still raises a righteous middle finger to the glossy shopping on the Magnificent Mile, still offers the best places to get a cheap beer, and still has residents who, per capita, care more about quality music and restaurants than anywhere else in the city.

Get in

By train

The O'Hare branch of the CTA '''Blue Line''' has stops in West Town (Chicago, Grand), Ukrainian Village (Division) and Wicker Park (Damen). The Damen stop is particularly useful, as it's right at the epicenter of Wicker Park and the border of Bucktown, and a short walk south to Ukrainian Village and the nightlife on Division.

If you're going further afield in Ukrainian Village than Division — say, to the Empty Bottle (see Drink) — get to know the relevant bus routes, as the CTA trains don't run particularly close.

By bus

  • '''9 Ashland''' is an all-nighter that runs within walking distance of the shops and bars in Wicker Park (on Milwaukee) and the nightlife on Division.
  • '''49 Western''' runs down Western Avenue for nearly the full length of the city, passing through the western edge of Ukrainian Village. It's an all-night route.
  • '''50 Damen''' runs through the heart of Wicker Park and Ukrainian Village, but lacks night-owl service.
  • '''56 Milwaukee''' is the king of the West Side, running through the center of Wicker Park and along the eastern fringe of Ukrainian Village.
  • '''65 Grand''' runs from downtown to West Town, connecting with the Grand Blue Line stop, and the southern fringe of Ukrainian Village.
  • '''66 Chicago''' runs from the Near North through West Town (connecting with the Chicago Blue Line stop) and Ukrainian Village, and onward to Austin. It's also an all-night route.
  • '''70 Division''' is vital for the nightlife on Division, connecting to the Blue Line at the Division Blue Line stop.
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    By car

    '''I-90/94''', that shining exemplar of Chicago gridlock, runs close to Ukrainian Village — exit at Division and head straight west, or make a right off Division on Milwaukee to reach Wicker Park.

    This isn't one of the worst parts of the city for parking, but it can still be a challenge, and there are no public lots or garages in the area. Be patient and circle the side streets. Many upscale restaurants offer valet parking for $10 or so. Permit-only parking is in place on many side streets, so check street signs. Damen in particular has some oddball no-parking hours.

    See

    While the art scene has largely moved on from Wicker Park, there are a few opportunities to explore the remaining galleries. The '''Wicker Park/Bucktown Gallery Association''' [http://www.wpbga.com/] hosts Second Saturday Gallery Walks each month (meet at Around the Coyote, 6-10PM), while many of the galleries in the Flatiron Arts Building have First Friday open hours (6-9PM).

  • Around the Coyote Gallery. 935 1/2 W North Ave. amen Blue Line. 1 773 342-6777. ttp://www.aroundthecoyote.org/gallery/. u-F 10AM-6PM, Sa 12-6PM. One of the few galleries in Wicker Park to keep regular weekday hours, Around the Coyote is partly affiliated with the festival of the same name (see below). A board of directors selects applicants among emerging artists from around the country for short-term exhibits here.

  • Flatiron Arts Building. 579 N Milwaukee Ave. amen Blue Line. 1 312 335-3000. ttp://www.flatiron.tv/. This triangular behemoth was built in 1913 by the great Holabird & Roche, one of their few major products outside the Loop. The first floor is all retail, but the second and third floors have small art studios. Aside from the First Friday open hours (above), a few galleries also have Saturday afternoon hours.

  • Holy Trinity Cathedral. 121 N Leavitt. 1 773 486-6064. roika51@comcast.net. ttp://www.holytrinitycathedral.net/. pen for visits Sa 11AM-4PM. Orthodox church in Ukrainian Village, designed by Louis Sullivan in 1903. It was funded in part by Czar Nicholas II; today, it thrives as a neighborhood parish.

  • The Polish Museum of America. 84 N Milwaukee Ave. ivision Blue Line. 1 773 384-3352. -W 11AM-4PM, Th closed. 5 adults, $4 children. ttp://pma.prcua.org/homeen.html. Library and exhibitions on Polish heritage, both in Chicago and in
  • Ss Volodymyr & Olha Ukrainian Catholic Church. 247 W Chicago Ave. 1 312 455-0178. ttp://www.stsvo.org/. This huge, golden-domed, Ukrainian Catholic church has been a local landmark since its construction in 1973. The church was built during a brief neighborhood schism over a move to use the Gregorian instead of the Julian calendar. How to upstage a church modeled after Kiev's St Sophia's? Build one modeled after
  • VRmage. 242 N Milwaukee Ave. ivision Blue Line. 1 312 265-6666. ttp://www.myspace/com/vrmage. -Th 9AM-10PM, F-Sa 9AM-midnight, Su closed. 10/game, $5/hour internet. PCs with internet access are available, but they're something of an afterthought to the LAN gaming parties and stand-in virtual reality "pods." The staff are eager to help the uninitiated.

    Events & Festivals

  • <listing name="Around the Coyote Festival" alt="" directions="Damen Blue Line" address="Flatiron Arts Building at 1935 1/2 N Milwaukee Ave, and buildings nearby" phone="+1 773 342-6777" email="" fax="" url="http://www.aroundthecoyote.org/" hours="Twice per year, winter and fall" price="Day Passes cost $10 and cover admission to most venues, although some tours cost an extra $10; All-Access Weekend Festival Passes are $40, which include the Opening Night Party and all venues"> Once ''the'' independent art festival in Chicago and now more hit-and-miss, but it's still a huge collection of new visual art, music, theater (on stages and streets), film and video, jewelry for sale, and Wicker Park eclectica, curated by artists from around the city. Plenty of food and beer are around (especially beer).</listing>
  • Buy

    The intersection of Milwaukee, North, and Damen is the indie Magnificent Mile. Start at the six corners and explore from there — you'll find plenty of cutting-edge fashion boutiques heading north on Damen, and more in both directions on Milwaukee, along with national chains like American Apparel and the Levi Store.

    You're also liable to do well searching for vinyl records here, both in Wicker Park and Ukrainian Village.

    Books

  • The Boring Store. 331 N Milwaukee Ave. ivision Blue Line. 1 773 772-8108. ttp://www.826chi.org/. 2-6PM daily. Most certainly ''not'' a secret-agent supply store, as the Chris Ware signs take pains to stress. Inside, proceeds from the sale of ''perfectly normal'' items like cough silencers support a non-profit writing/tutoring center for kids founded by Dave Eggers of McSweeney's fame.

  • Myopic Books. 564 N Milwaukee Ave. amen Blue Line. 1 773 862-4882. ttp://myopicbookstore.com/. -Sa 11AM-1AM, Su 11AM-10PM. Justly beloved used book store with cats, clutter (80,000 books worth), and ''great'' hours. They occasionally host Experimental Music Mondays and poetry readings on Sundays, but with three floors, there's always a quiet corner.

  • Quimby's Bookstore. 854 W North Ave. amen Blue Line. 1 773 342-0910. ttp://www.quimbys.com/. -F 12-10PM, Sa 11AM-10PM, Su 12-6PM. Lots of edgy books, indie comix, and hip zines (hand-stapled and well-polished alike). If somebody out there is publishing about it, Quimby's probably has it.

    Clothes

  • Alcala's Western Wear. 733 W Chicago Ave. 1 312 226-0152. ttp://www.alcalas.com/. ,Th-F 9:30AM-8PM, Tu-W,Sa 9:30AM-7PM, Su 9:30AM-5PM. One perfectly reasonable reaction to the trendy fashion in Wicker Park is to go country. Alcala's has been in the neighborhood for a long time, back when the Mexican cowboy look ruled the local scene. The big, family-owned store has a ''ton'' of leather boots & jackets, not to mention 5,000 hats.

  • Andina Buenos Aires. 740 W Division St. ivision Blue Line. 1 773 227-6225. ttp://www.shopandina.com/. u-Sa 11AM-7PM, Su 11AM-5PM, M closed. Small boutique featuring stylish, sturdy Argentine leather handbags and accessories.

  • Beadniks. 937 W Division St. amen Blue Line. 1 773 276-2323. ttp://www.beadniks.com/. -F 11AM-9PM, Sa 11AM-10PM, Su 11AM-7PM. Beads for the true bead fiend, both ready-made and ready to be made. There are classes for beginners on Tuesday nights (7-9PM, $60), and occasional workshops — check the calendar.

  • Hejfina. 529 N Milwaukee Ave. amen Blue Line. 1 773 772-0002. ttp://www.hejfina.com/. u-M 12-6PM, Tu-Sa 11AM-7PM. Great clothes boutique for men and women, with work by local designers mostly in the Swiss Moderne style.

  • Ouest. 751 W Division St. 1 312 421-2799. 1 312 421-0590. ttp://www.shopouest.com/. -F 11AM-7PM, Sa 11AM-6PM, Su noon-5PM. An upmarket women's clothing boutique focused on classic French designs.

  • Penelope's. 913 W Division St. 1 773 395-2351. ttp://www.penelopeschicago.com. -Sa 11AM-7PM, Su 12-6PM. Good-looking clothes — Penelope's carries younger, hip brands for men and women, but it's quality stuff, made to last. They have some good handbags, messenger bags, and cool gifts as well.

  • Saint Alfred. 531 N Milwaukee Ave. amen Blue Line. 1 773 486-7159. ttp://www.stalfred.com/. -Sa 12-8PM, Su 12-6PM. Collectible sneakers both classic and modern are sold here, along with cool kicks and other gear by local designers.

  • Silver Room. 442 N Milwaukee Ave. amen Blue Line. 1 773 278-7130. ttp://www.thesilverroom.com/. -Th 11AM-8PM, F-Sa 11AM-9PM, Su 11AM-6PM. Need a great gift for someone back home (or yourself)? Silver Room has cool stuff for men and women — good purses, hats, jewelry and accessories. The staff make shopping here a pleasure.

  • Una Mae's Freak Boutique. 528 N Milwaukee Ave. amen Blue Line. 1 773 276-7002. ttp://www.unamaesclothing.com/chicago/. -F 12-7PM, Sa 11AM-8PM, Su 11AM-6PM. Vintage clothing store run by nice people. Una Mae's has been around for a while, and they have great items for men and women, particularly from the 1960s and 70s.

    Music

  • Dusty Groove America. 120 N Ashland Ave. ivision Blue Line. 1 773 342-5800. ttp://www.dustygroove.com. 0AM-8PM. This record store is regarded as one of the best in the country for R&B, soul, and jazz.

  • Permanent Records. 914 W Chicago Ave. 1 773 278-1744. ttp://www.permanentrecordschicago.com/. u-Th 11AM-8PM, F-Sa 11AM-9PM. This may be the friendliest, most down-to-earth record store in Chicago. They stock mostly vinyl and used CDs, but will order anything on request, and have a rack of vintage clothes at the back of the store.

  • Reckless Records. 532 N Milwaukee Ave. amen Blue Line. 1 773 235-3727. ttp://www.reckless.com/. -Sa 10AM-10PM, Su 10AM-8PM. Hipster music shop with plenty to sell and no particular interest in selling it to you (there's a reason "High Fidelity" was set here). Zines and vinyl spruce up the CDs and DVDs.

    Others

  • Odd Obsession. 822 N Milwaukee. amen Blue Line. 1 773 276-0894. ttp://www.oddobsession.com/. -Sa 12-10PM, Su 12-9PM. Ultra-eccentric video rental store. YouTube pales, cuts its hair and goes to law school next to the rarities found here. It_fs cheap, too.

  • Rapid Transit Cycling Shop. 900 W North Ave. 1 773 227-2288. ttp://www.rapidtransitcycles.com/. -Th 10AM-8PM, F 10AM-5PM, Sa 10AM-6PM, Su 12-5PM. Plenty of streets in the area have nice, wide bike lanes, and considering the state of parking, this is a great place to have a bike. Rapid Transit is a family-owned shop that sells equipment and can do quick repairs.

  • Rotofugi Designer Toy Store & Gallery. 953 W Chicago Ave. 1 312 491-9501. ttp://rotofugi.com/. -Sa 12-8PM, Su 12-5PM. Now is battle coming tofu robot, plush ninja, Glow Kaiju Eyezon. It is the proposal of bad weather for justice. CAN YOU DO NO LESS?! Right here to bring you.

    Eat

    Budget

    The twin low-price culinary delights around here are the bakeries of Wicker Park and the delis of Ukrainian Village, many of which have been in business for several decades. The Uke also has some great Ukrainian grocers, particularly on Iowa.

  • Alliance Bakery & Cafe. 736 W Division St. ivision Blue Line. 1 773 278-0366. ttp://www.alliance-bakery.com/. -Sa 6AM-9PM, Su 7AM-9PM. 3-7. Just a look at the whirls of frosting and gingerbread fortresses in the window tends to bring a smile. The tarts, cupcakes, and coffee back that up. Alliance has been here for more than 80 years. There's a pleasant, inviting cafe next door with free wi-fi.

  • Caesar's Polish Deli. 01 N Damen Ave. 6 Chicago bus. 1 773 486-6190. u-F 10AM-6PM, Sa 8AM-noon, Su,M closed. 4-8. A great place for self-catering, Caesar's has a wide selection of home-made pirogies, with both savory and sweet fillings, as well as a good selection of fresh foods, and prepared products imported from

    Dive bars

  • Beachwood Inn. 415 N Wood St. 1 773 486-9806. -F 4PM-2AM, Sa 3PM-3AM, Su 3PM-2AM. A good, down-to-earth dive bar — dark, kind of dirty, offering cheap beer and a solid jukebox. Nothing trendy here, just the kind of neighborhood bar that brought people to Wicker Park in the first place.

  • Club Foot. 824 W Augusta. 1 773 489-0379. u-F 8PM-2AM, Sa 8PM-3AM. Friendly punk/rock/ska hipster bar with games and pop knick-knacks in Ukrainian Village.

  • Gold Star. 755 W Division St. ivision Blue Line. 1 773 227-8700. u-Th 4PM-2AM, Sa 4PM-3AM. An old, speakeasy-era bar among the Division nightlife that now caters to a younger crowd, but hits all the marks: cheap beer, a good jukebox, pool, and cheap beer. (Also cheap beer.)

  • Happy Village. 059 N Wolcott Ave. ivision Blue Line. 1 773 486-1512. -F 4PM-2AM, Sa-Su noon-2AM. Yeah, it's a ping-pong dive bar. God bless America, and the beer garden too, which is the best on (well, off) Division — like walking into a backyard family reunion.

  • Innertown Pub. 935 W Thomas St. 1 773 235-9795. u-F 3PM-2AM, Sa 3PM-3AM. It's hard to say exactly what sets it apart, but with the fall of Tuman's, any survey of Ukrainian Village residents would place the Innertown first among dive bars. (Excepting the neighbors, that is, who are trying to get it closed down.) It's not easy to find but it's a landmark, so follow the noise or spend the cheap-beer savings on a cab.

  • Phyllis' Musical Inn. 800 W Division St. 1 773 486-9862. u-F 3PM-2AM, Sa 3PM-3AM. Everyone feels welcome at the Musical Inn. Outdoor seating is packed on Division in the summer, which is why this is one to know — few people are aware that a great beer garden lurks behind the tall stone fence next door to Phyllis', which looks like a garden variety dive bar at first glance. (Befitting the name, there are bands here sometimes.)

  • Rainbo Club. 150 N Damen Ave. amen Blue Line. 1 773 489-5999. u-F 4PM-2AM, Sa 4PM-3AM. An old bar — the classic neon sign tips that right away — with a few literary references in its history. In a neighborhood of hipster dives, this is ''the'' hipster dive, but at least you can say you've been.

    Music venues

  • Debonair Social Club. 575 N Milwaukee Ave. amen Blue Line. 1 773 227-7990. ttp://www.debonairsocialclub.com/. u-F 9PM-2AM, Sa 9PM-3AM, Su closed. The emo-rap electro kids like it here. There are two floors of video walls, color lightboxes, ferocious deployments of lacquer, and DJs who fly around the room. It's all a little stressful, but perhaps you're into that sort of thing.

  • Double Door. 572 N Milwaukee Ave. amen Blue Line. 1 773 489-3160. ttp://www.doubledoor.com/. -F 8PM-2AM, Sa 8PM-3AM. 3-20. No music venue in Chicago has a better location than the Double Door, right at the six corners of Wicker Park and the Damen train stop. The sound system is good, too. It's run by the owners of the Metro in Lakeview, which means that the roster of bands can seem like the Metro's leftovers — jam bands, local bands, and the occasional 90s alt-rock refugee.

  • Empty Bottle. 035 N Western Ave. estern Blue Line, transfer to 49 Western bus going south. 1 773 276-3600. ttp://www.emptybottle.com/. -W 5PM-2AM, Th-F 3PM-3AM, Sa-12PM-3AM, Su 12PM-2AM. 10-15, Mondays free. To Chicago as the Knitting Factory is to

  • <listing name="Eckhart Park Library" alt="" directions="Chicago Blue Line" address="1330 W Chicago Ave" phone="+1 312 746-6069" email="" fax="" url="http://www.chipublib.org/002branches/eckhart/eckhart.html" hours="M,W 10AM-6PM, Tu-Th 12-8PM, F-Sa 9AM-5PM, Su closed" price=""> In the Eckhart Park field house.</listing>
  • <listing name="Midwest Branch Library" alt="" directions="66 Chicago bus" address="2335 W Chicago Ave" phone="+1 312 744-7788" email="" fax="" url="http://www.chipublib.org/002branches/midwest/midwest.html" hours="M,W 12-8PM, Tu,Th-Sa 9AM-5PM, Su closed" price=""> Near Ukrainian Village.</listing>
  • Stay safe

    Wicker Park keeps a slightly rough appearance, but that's mainly for the enjoyment of the younger residents. Use common sense while drinking and you'll have nothing to worry about. (Don't leave valuables in cars, though.) Ukrainian Village is much the same, but stay alert around alleys while walking on side streets. In that distinctly Chicago fashion of invisible barriers respected on both sides of the law, crime stays almost exclusively on the west side of Western Avenue. But if you parked on the west side of Western, take care while walking back to your car after dark.

    Get out

  • Pilsen is the most-quoted inheritor of Wicker Park's original bohemian mantle, and makes for an interesting contrast.
  • If, on the other hand, it is the demise of Wicker Park's Puerto Rican community that you are lamenting, retrace its migration west along Division Street into Humboldt Park on the Far West Side — the best Puerto Rican food in the city awaits.