'''Bring a phrasebook.''' As this journey takes you far off the beaten path, don't expect anyone to speak English. Bringing a Russian phrasebook is not only recommended to help the traveler socialize with fellow cabin mates during the trip, and thus enriching the experience of this trip immensely - but also perhaps more importantly, it's invaluable help should you encounter any emergencies.
'''Have your papers in order'''. Sakhalin is designated a special border region, and as such, the movement of foreigners is limited. Because of this, travelers should pay special attention to the Russian registration rules if he or she plans on entering Sakhalin, and have all the paperwork (registration stamps and train tickets) ready on disembarkation in Kholmsk. It is also advisable to have the name, address and telephone number for the intended accommodation on Sakhalin island written in Russian, for the Sakhalin customs officials.
Certain nationalities require Visa to enter Japan, while citizens from most Western nations, can obtain landing permission on arrival. There is a Japanese consulate in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk. Also note that you are required to provide information on your first nights accommodation on the landing permission, as well as to purchase ferry tickets for the Korsakov-Wakkanai ferry.
'''Pack warm clothes'''. Even in summer, Sakhalin can be quite chilly, so be sure to bring a jacket and long pants.
There are two possible options of reaching Sakhalin, the easiest of which is branching off the main Trans Siberian line in Khabarovsk, the last major station before the terminus in Vladivostok. More adventurous travelers can travel by the more exotic but poorly served Baikal-Amur Mainline to Komsomolsk and enter the route from there.
There are several options to consider on this leg of the journey. The easiest no doubt, is by train, but a more interesting way, is to take the daily hydrofoil services, connecting the two cities, up the Amur river.
If you do not want to attract the wrong kind of attention, be considerate when you board the train, as the passengers who boarded in Vladivostok will mostly be asleep. The train ride is quite scenic, with occasional views over the Amur river. Note that there is no longer stops on this leg, where you can can stock up supplies from the usual station sellers, but train does have a decent restaurant car, with a small shop, in case you forget to bring food and drinks.
In Komsomolsk there is a 1 hour layover, the station has a large amount of shops selling fresh foods and other supplies.
This hydrofoil service, departs from the Rechnoy Vokzal (river terminal), located a short but steep walk southwest of the city's massive cathedral. Stay in a hotel near the river due to the early departure times. It takes approximately 6 hours to cover the 300 kilometers between the two cities. In Komsomolsk the ferry arrives at the river station, about 2 kilometers south of the railway station, but they are connected by tram line number 2.
The train connection to Vanino does not depart Komsomolsk until 12:17 (19:12 local time). So you have a few hours to explore the city. Luggage can be stored at the station.
Well fed, and safe on the train, there is some good scenery to be seen; as the train follows a river flowing through a valley, before it starts climbing a small mountain range, and darkness sets in. Next morning you will wake up with a view over the Pacific ocean, and a attractive coastline. If you have come from St Petersburg, you have a little time to reflect on the achievement of traversing the Eurasian continent coast to coast, before arriving in the port city of Vanino. Upon arrival, it is a good idea to have your luggage ready, so you can be first in line to exit the train.
Be advised, buying ferry tickets in Vanino is an altogether unpleasant experience, that even the local population consider a test of endurance. Below is some tips on securing some hard fought tickets.
When you have secured a ticket, you can wait in the adjacent waiting room, until the bus leaves to the ferry. Schedules are random, so watch for the line in front of the ticket gate to empty, and then make your way to the parking lot in the northern end of the train platform. Be forewarned, the standard is squeezing twice the number of people as the bus was designed for in Korea.
The ferries are in a somewhat sorry state, with huge patches of rust everywhere on the ship, but all safety equipment you expect from a western ferry seems to be present. Facilities are limited, but there is a cafe on the main deck, with an assortment of Russian foods and alcoholic beverages.
The ferry arrives in the dull port of Kholmsk on Sakhalin's eastern coast early morning. As you leave your cabin, make sure you have your ferry ticket, as it is required to get off the ship. During disembarkation you are required to show your ferry tickets, as well as your passport to local officials. So make sure both are within easy reach, as the cramped space makes disembarkation a rather crowded experience.
As of 2008, Sakhalin is designated a special border region, so the law now requires that you register with local authorities. At disembarkation the customs officer will keep your passport, until all passengers have left the vessel. After which you will be led inside the ferry terminal, where the officer will check your papers, and subject you to a brief interview. No English spoken, so having the following information written in Russian, will shorten your waiting time considerably.
Expect the above procedures to take at least one hour. Once finished, head outside the main gate of the ferry terminal, for connections to Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, where you can either break up your journey, or continue to Korsakov
In Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk the parking lot between the the train station and post office doubles as a bus terminal. Once again, while there are a few scheduled departures for Korsakov, the easier option is to ask around for a minibus (200 RUB). It's an easy 40 minutes drive, and road conditions are good.
If you are a train buff, and have endured the hardships of riding the Baikal-Amur Mainline across the Siberian plains, you might find it worthy of the extra trouble to take the Japanese built narrow-gauge railway to Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, and onwards to Korsakov but note, as this is Russia, the above train times should be taken as guidelines only.
Ferries connect Korsakov and Wakkanai once or twice a week between May and October. The ferry are operated by the Japanese company; Heartland Ferry [http://www.heartlandferry.jp/english], schedules available on their website. By now you are well off the beaten path, and information is very hard to come by if you don't know any Russian.
'''Tickets''': 2nd class (Economy) 24.000 JPY, 1st class 29.000/34.000 JPY, for one way tickets.
There are two options of buying tickets inside Russia, both of them are on Sakhalin. Tickets should be bought ''at least'' one day in advance, so leave room in your schedule for this - however accommodation is unusually steep on Sakhalin, so budget travelers would probably want to limit their time spent on the island.
The ferry departs Korsakov at 10.00 am, from the Southern Pier (Yuzhno Port). Passenger facilities are located inside the <listing name="Sea terminal" alt="Morvokzal ()" directions="a low rise building just, on your right hand side by the entrance to the pier" address="2 Reidovyi Lane" phone="(42435) 22352" email="" fax="" url="" hours="" price=""></listing>
You pay a departure tax here on the counter on the right, customs facilities are located behind the door to your left as you enter. Customs officers here seem fairly relaxed compared to their counterparts at the Chinese and Mongolian border crossings. Once all passengers have been through customs and immigrations, are bus shuttles you to the ferry. '''Note''': you part with your luggage at this point, and it is not handed back until after immigration on the Japanese side, so pack everything you need in a day pack.
'''Be alert'''. Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk has the highest instance of youth crime in the entire Russian Federation. While there is no need to be overly paranoid about this, do travel sensibly and stay alert around young Russian men.