'''Quetzaltenango''', also known as '''Xela''' (pronounced SHAY-la) or '''Xelaju''', is the second largest city in Guatemala. Situated at the southwest of the country, the surrounding department has a variety of landscapes extending from the cold High Lands to the warm Pacific Coast. There are numerous volcanos, hot springs, valleys, mountains, rivers. The region provides a harvest of numerous products such as coffee, wheat, fruits and vegetables, as well as sheep and cattle breeding.

These qualities make Quetzaltenango an interesting place to visit.

Get in

Use the Panamerican Highway (CA-1) which crosses the High Lands or the International (CA-2), parallel to the Pacific Coast.

You can take a bus from many cities, including Guatemala City or Antigua, into Xela. While the local buses (called Chicken Buses), which are actually brightly painted school buses, take these routes, they are long, bumpy, noisy and crowded and much better suited for shorter trips around the city or to nearby locales, however they are cheaper (Oct 2007 Guate-Xela $3.30, Dec 2008: Panajachel-Xela Q20 for Latinos, Q25 for people with white skin, San Pedro de la Laguna-Xela Q20 for Latinos, Q30 for people with white skin) more entertaining and give you close-up access to normal Guatemalans, for better or for worse! For a few dollars more ($7.50 US in the Summer of 2006 to travel from Guatemala City to Xela), ride one of the private bus companies, such as Galgos (Greyhound style), which offers luggage storage, nice seats and quicker routes.

Get around

An able bodied person can walk from the center to any point in Xela in about thirty minutes. Minibus routes thread through all parts of the city and, although cramped, cost only 1.25 Quetzal flat fare. The bus costs less but is slower and less frequent.

For travel around the countryside the local buses are very reasonable. They can be entertaining, and at times, quite crowded. Do not plan on carrying much luggage with you on these: some buses have backpack storage above the seats, however, most of the time you must store bags that do not fit on your lap on the top of the bus. While they are generally safe up there, they are at risk for weather.

Taxis are relatively common around the city, especially around night-life hot spots. At night, it is not safe to walk around so taxis are highly recommended, especially if you are by yourself. Catch a taxi on a public square rather than on one of the side streets and note its number. Negotiate the cost of the ride before you leave. If the driver seems sketchy to you, make a reasonable excuse and don't take it.

Understand

The city of '''Quetzaltenango''', the Department's principal town is situated on an extensive plain and surrounded by hills and volcanoes. The city of Quetzaltenango conserves the Maya-Quiche's old traditions and the colonial past, while maintaining the dynamism of modern life.

The Mam authority, called ''Kulaha'', reached its most important expansion. Later Quiches's Lords conquered the area and founded Xelaju previously situated at the base of the volcano Santa Maria.

Then, it was transfered to the north, and the Nahuas who went with the Spaniards gave it the name of '''Quetzaltenango'''.

The center of the magistrate's authority during the Hispanic period and during certain time the capital of the so-called "Sixth State of the Central American Confederation ".

See

Historical Center

The town conserves traces of the colonial period in its streets and avenues. The classical, neoclassical and Italian renaissance styles are evident in the buildings and the houses which have been built during the past century and the beginning of the 20th, with volcanic stones by artistic "Quetzalteco" masons. Some examples of architectural styles:

  • '''Espiritu Santo''' Cathedral : Consist of two structures. The "Espiritu Santo" parish's ancient facade (1535/1896) and to the back the "Diocesis de los Altos" (1899).
  • The '''Municipal Theatre''' is a very important Neoclassical work.
  • The '''Central America park''' (known as "Parque Central): Situated in the centre of the town is also centre of cultural activities and amusements.
  • The '''Enrique Passage''' : Near the central park.
  • '''Gobernacion''' : one block from the central park.
  • Also visit the '''Cerro del Baul''', where one can have a beautiful view of Quetzaltenango's valley, day or night (accessible by foot, car or taxi).
  • '''Quetzaltenango''' has important cultural activities. There, you'll find the '''Occidental Cultural Centre''' (''La Casa de la Cultura de Occidente''), and '''Alliance Francaise de Quetzalteango''', numerous activities are scheduled all year.

    The first Sunday of each month, the "Quetzaltecos" install the artisans' market in the central park where handcrafts from Quetzaltenago and surrounding villages are displayed. In September, the annual fair and festival is offered from the 12th to the 18th.

    Do

    For Communication & Info Matrix Internet 5th Street Near to Central Park

  • Xela Pages Internet Cafe and Call Center. ta Calle 19-48, Zona 1 Quetzaltenango, Guatemala, C. A.. 02-7761-4396. ttp://www.xelapages.com/. .

    Xela has many volunteering opportunities. Many of the schools listed above offer opportunities for their students. For other volunteer opportunities, see the list below.

  • [http://www.casaxelaju.com/pedrera Volunteer work and internships. Work with an indigenous community. La Pedrera Community Project, a non-profit organization. Donations are tax deductible in the USA]
  • [http://www.entremundos.org Entremundos Volunteering Information]
  • [http://www.ahnh.org Asociacion Nuevos Horizontes, Women_Ls and children_Ls rights non-profit organization]
  • [http://www.amaguate.org/es_acera_historia.html Asociacion de Mujeres del Altiplano]
  • The salsa scene is also very active in Xela. Lessons are cheap and there are lots of clubs.

    Xela is also well-known for its abundance of volcanoes, mountains, and hot springs.

  • [http://www.quetzaltrekkers.com Quetzaltrekkers] offers trips to local natural wonders at reasonable prices, as well as extended treks to Lago de Atitlan and the Cuchumatanes. All guides are either foreign volunteers or local Guatemalans. All profits go towards La Escuela de la Calle, a school in the poorest neighborhood of Xela.
  • Learn

    Language Schools: Xela is an excellent place to take language lessons (both Spanish and some of the Mayan languages specific to the area). There are various schools and NGOs in the city most offer rates based on one week of instruction (approx. 5 hours per day). Some schools offer volunteer opportunities for an additional cost while others offer it for free. Most also offer home stay options, which is an excellent way to make sure you keep practicing at all times. One of the best reasons to learn in Xela is the price. You can expect to pay about US$140-160 per week including home stay. This often includes internet access at the school. Arrangements can be made ahead of time or upon arrival (most schools have multilingual administrators who can help make arrangements via email or phone - some even offer airport pick up from Guatemala City).

  • [http://www.casaxelaju.com Casa Xelaju] tel 612 235 4307
  • [http://www.celasmaya.edu.gt Celas Maya] tel (502) 7761-4342
  • [http://www.cbaspanishschool.com/home.html CBA] <do name="Centro Bilingue Amerindia" alt="" address="12 Avenida 10-27, Zona 1" directions="" phone="502-7761-8535" url="http://www.xelapages.com/cba/" ></do>
  • Founded in 1989, CBA is one of the oldest language schools in Xela. Its university-trained instructors teach classes in Spanish as well as Mayan languages in a family environment. School profits go to various development projects.
  • [http://www.centromayaxela.org Centro Maya Xela]
  • [http://www.spanishschools.biz Educacion para Todos]
  • [http://www.languageselnahual.com El Nahual Language School] 100% Non-Profit Volunteer Led Organization
  • [http://www.elmundoenespanol.org El Mundo en Espanol]
  • [http://www.guatespanish.org Guate Spanish]
  • [http://www.xelapages.com/ica ICA]
  • [http://www.inepas.org/ INEPAS]
  • [http://www.xelapages.com/juansisay Juan Sisay]
  • [http://www.schoolkamalbe.com Kamalbe Spanish school and cultural learning centre] tel(502)54888 317
  • [http://www.xelapages.com/kiebalam Kie Balam]
  • [http://www.lademocracia.net La Democracia]
  • [http://www.xelapages.com/lapaz La Paz]
  • [http://www.madre-tierra.org/ Madre Tierra]
  • [http://www.mesoamericaspanish.org/ The MesoAmerica Academy]
  • [http://www.spanishschool.com Miguel Angel Asturias Spanish School]
  • [http://www.learn2speakspanish.com Miguel Cervantes School of Spanish]
  • [http://www.xelapages.com/minerva Minerva]
  • [http://www.xelapages.com/pop-wuj Pop Wuj]
  • [http://www.xelapages.com/plqe Proyecto Linguistico Quetzalteco]
  • [http://www.sakribal.com Sakribal]
  • [http://www.spanishguatemala.org Ulew Tinimit Spanish School] tel (502) 77630516.
  • <listing name="Volunteer Spanish Academy" alt="" directions="" address="8a Calle 1-71 Zona 1" phone="502 7761 0798" email="contact@volunteerspanish.org" fax="" url="http://www.volunteerspanish.org" hours="" price="">USA tel +1-(206) 202-4828 </listing>
  • Buy

    There are many opportunities to buy goods in Xela. Mayans will approach you, especially in parks, about selling purses, bags and blankets in the local styles. Markets occur regularly in and around Xela. Remember to negotiate prices-- walking away is often a good way to get the price down a bit.

    http://Casa Xelaju/rent offers seven fully furnished apartments and one house in the historic center of the city. All the units have an outdoor porch with a beautiful view of the city, mountains and volcanoes. Free unlimited cable and cable tv. Free private parking space.

  • . ttp:\\lunadexelaju.tripod.com. House and Apartment for rent - completely furnished
  • Luna de Xelaju - Casas/Apartments For Rent . ttp:\\lunadexelaju.tripod.com. contact casaslunadexelaju@yahoo.com - http:\\lunadexelaju.tripod.com House and Apartments for rent completely furnished.</buy>
  • Luna de Xelaju - House and Apartments for rent. ttp:\\lunadexelaju.tripod.com. contact us at casaslunadexelaju@yahoo.com or vist our web site http:\\lunadexelaju.tripod.com </buy>

    Eat

  • '''Comida Taiwanesa''' Their specialty is the Taiwanese empenada which is entirely vegetarian. They're Q2.50 a piece and two will make a decent size snack. They also sell soy milk and snow cones with all kinds of toppings. Located south of the Parque Central on 8a calle between 8a avenida and 9a avenida.
  • '''La Genovese''' A small Italian Restaurant just two blocks south of the Municipal Theater on 14 avenida A serves great pasta dishes perfect for vegetarians, as well as a great selection of meat based sauce dishes such as the famous Lasagna Bolognes, Spaghetti ala Amatriciana. You will also be surprised to find gourmet dishes such as Fettucinni with black trouffles and smoked salmon, Penne alla Gorbachov which is penne pasta with a vodka based sauce. Part of the charm of this restaurant is its chef Alfredo Trovatti who can entertain you with stories of his travels all around the world.
  • '''El Alquemista''' CLOSED and occupied by aggressive dogs. Do not make the trip, even though the website is still functioning!
  • Drink

    Don't drink the tap water. Some hostels will have a water filter, which many drink from, and it seems to be safe. Otherwise, drink purified water (agua pura).

    Cabro, which some consider one of the best beers in the world, is made locally in Quetzaltenango. Another local beer, Gallo, is more like the Bud Lite of Guatemala -- bland, available everywhere, and sponsoring everything.

    Sleep

  • Hotel Villa Real Plaza. 2 Ave & 4ta Calle Zona 1. ttp://www.xelapages.com/villarealplaza/. pm. 1am. 30 up. The Villa Real Plaza sits on the same block as Quetzaltenango's wonderful Central Park. It is a lively area with lots of restaurants and nightlife. Nice rooms, hot showers with Cable TV in every room.
  • Hotel Modelo. otel Anexo. 4 Ave A. ttp://www.xelapages.com/modelo. pm. 1am. 30 up. Owned and operated by the same family for over 100 year the Hotel Modelo offers old world charm in the heart of Quetzaltenango.
  • Hostal Posada La Estacion. a Calle, Callejon 15 2-34. 761-9957. osadalaestacionxela@yahoo.com. 0 Q for a Dorm room, 40 Q for a single room. ttp://www.hostalposadalaestacion.com. Between 15 Avenida "A" and 16 Avenida, Zona 1. Further off the beaten path than Casa Argentina, but closer to parque central. Run by a very nice woman with years of experience hosting backpackers (Dona Blanca). It has a kitchen, 24 hr. hot water, free bicyles that guests can borrow and a family atmosphere.
  • Itzamna Xela Homestay. tzamna.xela.homestay@gmail.com. ttp://www.itzamnaxelahomestay.tk/. is a service placing travelers with a family for a homestay. They can accommodate stays of a few days to months.
  • Casa Xelaju. 12 253-4347. ttp://www.casaxelaju.com/rent/index.htm. SD35/day. ail@casaxelaju.com. Offers two-story house for rent. It is completely furnished including central heated water, washing machine, two bathrooms, a dining room, living room, a kitchen and three bedrooms and den on the second floor. Casa Xelaju has five more fully furnished apartments for rent $400.00 for $400.00 per week. Our apartments have huge windows with a beautiful view of the city, volcanoes, mountains etc. They are located five minutes walking distance from Central Park in the Historic Center of the City. They also have an outdoor porch. Free private parking, internet, cable tv. http://casaxelaju.com/rent</sleep>
  • Posada San Andres. a calle, D12-41, Zona 1. 02 54815000. 5 blocks from the park, 7 rooms surround a colonial courtyard. Guests share a kitchen and two bathrooms with hot water. Wireless internet also available. Perfect for more long term guests. Q700 a month. Attached to the posada is Bab_Ls Home Bakery, serving some of the best bagels and brownies in Xela.
  • Casa Argentina. iagonal 12 8-37. Friendly and central, very close to a small fruit and vegetable market. Home of Quetzaltrekkers, a non-profit trekking company. It has a wifi (or use their computer), kitchen, hot water (use the top one - hottest, and it's solar (?)). 20 Q for a Dorm room, 30 Q for a single room. Check your mattress for signs of bed bugs.
  • CASAS LUNA DE XELAJU. ttp://lunadexelaju.tripod.com/. Very nice house and apartments completely furnished. visit the web site http://lunadexelaju.tripod.com

    Get out

    It may be possible to arrange a tour of the Gallo brewery by calling ahead.

    You can spend hours in and around the Mercado de la Democracia in the commercial center of Xela. It is where the locals shop for most of their needs.

    Any concert is worth attending in the Municipal Theater. It is beautiful inside.

    Evening marimba concerts are often given on the steps of the Municipalidad on the west side of Parque Centro America.

    Walk around town. In the side streets, you'll often come upon a master giving guitar lessons or a group of men practicing Marimba.

    Go to a football game: Xelaju M. C. vs anyone. The crowd is animated and the fireworks alone can be worth the price of admission. Don't pay extra for the high priced seats, they remove you from much of the fun. Try to sit in the corner near the band. A "Xelaju M. C." flag to wave costs Q10. Grilled sausages are less. No alcohol permitted in the stadium.

    Fireworks! If it's your birthday, or you just feel like it, spend a couple of Quetzals for a big string of firecrackers. You'll normally hear them any evening or early morning.

    Weekend nights are also an option, you will find night clubs in all the center, from the Central Park, to the Theatre, for 30 quetzales you can get in anywhere and drink something. Also in some seasons the "14A" is closed to the traffic because of some music festival, concerts, street art exhibitions etc.

    Must See

  • Zunil is 9 km from Quetzaltenango. Monday is market day. Located on the Samala river and on the main highway leading down the coast, Zunil's people wear attractive clothes made by hand using traditional techniques featuring intricate designs and bright colors. This picturesque town is the center for the worship of "Maximon" or "San Simon" a life-sized mannequin endowed with occult power: Just 8 km from town on the slopes of the inactive Zunil volcano you'll find the beautiful "Las Georginas" thermal springs, equipped with restaurant and bungalows. They are newly open for business and restored since the hurricane.
  • Destinations

    The "Quetzaltecos" villages of Quiche and Mam origins, have small places with impressive colonial style churches where the tourist will see the regional handcrafts displayed on market days.

  • Salcaja: 9 km from Quetzaltenango. Market day: Tuesday. local festival the 25th of August. Here was constructed the church of San Jacinto, the first of the religious constructions of the region and a beautiful example of colonial architecture. Also famous for its hand-woven "jaspe " materials and unique alcoholic beverages known as "caldo de fruta" " and "rompopo" .
  • San Juan Ostuncalco 12 km from Quetzaltenango. Situated in a valley of the mountainous region, it is the commercial centre for the Mam-speaking villages which border the departament. Here you may acquire musicals instruments, wicker furniture as well as lovely hand woven materials.
  • Almolonga 5 km from Quetzaltenango. Market on Wednesday and Saturday. Annual festival the 26th-29th of June. Known for its variety of vegetables which are cultivated on the smell farms which surround the village. You will also enjoy thermal springs such as "Las aguas amargas" and "El rosario" .
  • Cantel 10 km from Quetzaltenango. Visit the interesting cooperative for handmade blown glass.
  • Olintepeque : 7 Km from Quetzaltenango. The place where according to legend, the famous Maya-Quiche prince Tecun Uman died in battle against Pedro de Alvarado in 1524.
  • San Andres Xecul : 7 km from Quetzaltenango, in the direction of the "Cuatro Caminos" highway junction, with a colonial-style whose facade is both colorful and picturesque.
  • '''Volcan Santa Maria''', 12,256 feet & '''Santiaguito'''. The summit of the Santa Maria Volcano lies at the end of the steep 3-4 hours climb from the village of Llanos del Pinal (located 6 km above Quetzaltenango). You'll best enjoy the truly awesome view during the clearer weather of the early morning hours. The whole coastal plain lies at your feet, along with the cities of Quetzaltenago and Tapachula, Mexico. You can look down into the very active '''Santiaguito''' crater which erupts at least once every hour. You can still enjoy the view minus the ragged hike by driving to the top of the adjacent '''Siete Orejas Volcano'''. (10,384 feet above sea level).
  • '''La laguna de Chicabal''', 3 hours by foot from the village of San Martin Sacatepequez (also known as Chile Verde) (14 km from Quetzaltenango). At this very picturesque lagoon, the sorcerers of the whole region meet on the 3rd of may.
  • The High Country

  • Totonicapan Near Quetzaltenango, you have to visit the principal town Totonicapan (in the departament of the same name). Known for its hand woven textiles and his potteries.
  • San Francisco El Alto Friday this is the site of the Central America's largest market. If you can buy it in Guatemala, you can buy it here, although there is very little aimed specifically at tourists. If you can, drop by the cathedral and see if someone will take you up on the roof for a bird's-eye view of what's going on.
  • Momostenango: Wednesday & Sunday: Market. This curious "Riscos de Oro", rock formation produced by erosion.
  • San Cristobal Totonicapan Church and Convent of the XVII.
  • Toward the Coast

  • El Palmar Town destroyed by Santiaguito Volcano. Lagoons and tropical vegetation.
  • Retalhuleu 62 km,Cuyotenango y Coatepeque 120 km from Quetzaltenango. Swimming pool and tropical climate.
  • Pacific Beach

  • Champerico, Tilapa, Las Delicias, Tulate.