'''Thong Nai Pan''' (or just '''TNP''' among backpackers) is an area on the northeastern tip of Ko Pha Ngan that includes the two beach resorts of '''Ao Thong Nai Pan Yai''' and '''Ao Thong Nai Pan Noi'''. They are maybe the most secluded but yet developed beaches on the island.
Understand
''Yai'' means "large", and it's the larger and more developed of the two beaches. ''Noi'' means "small", and the beach here is about half the size of Yai. The two are a 15-minute hike apart from each other.
Get in
To get to either of the Thong Nai Pan beaches, you first need to make your way to Ko Pha Ngan; see the article for details.
Once at the island's harbor of Thong Sala, there will be one or more '''taxi'''/pick up truck drivers waiting, holding up signs with the destination. Price is a fixed 150 baht/person. Note that some taxis don't go to both beaches so check for the Noi/Yai extension on their signs. Since the beaches are less traveled and quite a ride, sometimes you'll have to wait for the next boat or even the boat after that because the driver won't drive up and down for just 1 or 2 passengers. Once they do take off, the trip is about half an hour.
Since you've chosen this destination you're unlikely to be in a hurry. But if, for some reason you are and you are a little bit more adventurous, then catch a quick ride to the town (or even walk, out the harbor take a left on the main street till the round about). Here you can rent a typical Thai 125 cc '''motorcycle'''. But be aware that the road to these northern beaches is mainly unpaved and with really steep slopes, (see picture). So after one or two hours of rain, this trip can be a dangerous one for the less experienced drivers. It's about 15 km (10 mi) and it will take you around 50 minutes to drive.
See
The sunrise, day after day.
Also try to catch a glimpse of the huge, harmless lizards that are unique to this area.
Older, mostly European men, wearing thongs, speedos and other skimpy bathing attire.
Do
Take a walk from the one beach to the next.
Follow the track by the waterfall.
Bring some good books
Yoga classes and retreats- ask at Nu Bar on Yai beach.
Get a massage from Susie or Lee on Noi Beach.
Buy
There is really not much to buy. There are, however, 3 ATM's within crawling distance of each other in ''the financial district'' of Ao Thong Nai Pan Noi. Also in Ao Thong Nai Pan Noi you'll find a pharmacy which also ''sells second hand books''. Don't expect much of it but when you have decided to stay one extra week in this little paradise, it might come in handy.
There are now two ATMs on the main street of Thong Nai Pan Yai.
Eat
Fresh, deliciously steamed or grilled fish. Available at a few places, usually advertising the fish by having them on display on ice in front of the ''restaurant''.
Noi Beach
Ban Pong for good Thai and foreign food.
Que Pasa for not too bad Mexican.
Me'n'u is the signature restaurant of Rasananda serving five star modern cuisine
Rasta Baby for decent Thai and foreign food.
Yai Beach
Boozy's Deli for excellent fresh steaks, pasta, and Israeli food.
Chai Ya Bar & Restaurant for Thai and European food.
Under Sky Restaurant has excellent seafood and traditional Thai dishes.
Drink
All places in town are very much alike; i.e. open bamboo constructions with cold beer in the fridge, Western music on the stereo and a very relaxed atmosphere. Also on the beach you can find a couple of these bars. Some of them being part of a guest house they close between 10 and 11 PM. Others can stay open til around 2am.
Noi Beach
I Sea Bar on the beach
Flip Flop Pharmacy (very touristy) on the beach
Hideaway Bar in the village on Friday nights.
Yai Beach
Yai Bar on the beach
Nu Bar has Ladies' nights Wed. and Sun.
Makkar Bar for chilling, art and music.
Chillout Bar for pool, football on TV, and cocktails.
Nice Beach Resort Bar for heavenly Pina Coladas - made of freshly opened coconut and freshly pressed pineapple served at the beach. To die for.
Sleep
There are guest houses of different ranges all along the beach plus a couple of hidden places in the village. Prices for a bungalow at the beach range, depending on the season, from 200 to 1200 baht. So drop your bags at one of the bars and start picking out the ones you'll like best. At both ends of the Ao Thong Nai Pan Noi there are some classy resorts in the ''splurge'' range. Accommodation is cheaper on Yai beach.
The village rooms will give you a more local experience so don't be afraid to go back from the beach a bit.
Yai Beach
On Yai Beach, backpacker bungalows can be had for 300-800b/night at the following:
'''Candle Hut Bungalows''' - somewhat overpriced and poorly designed bungalows, prone to power outages.
'''Paradise Garden Resort'''
'''Thai Terrace Bungalows'''
'''Dolphin Bungalows'''
'''Nice Beach Resort'''
'''Starlight Bungalows'''
'''Havana Beach Resort'''
Noi Beach
'''Star Hut Resort'''
'''Baan Panburi Resort'''
'''Rasananda Resort and Spa''' - This new five star resort features 44 private villas all with swimming pools. The resort features a spa and a restaurant, Menu offering modern European cuisine.
Elsewhere
'''Panviman Resort''', on the headland between the two beaches.
Villa vadee - thing nai pan noi , see website www.villakohphangan.com
Contact
There are several Internet cafes charging steep prices for Thai standards of 3 baht/minute. There is also Wi-Fi available on both beaches (Ban Pong on Noi Beach, Indian Bar on Yai Beach) for around 150b/hr. so bring your laptop.