'''Ky?to''' (___s) [http://raku.city.kyoto.jp/sight_e.phtml] was the capital of Japan for over a millennium, and carries a reputation as its most beautiful city. However, visitors may be surprised by how much work they will have to do to see Kyoto's beautiful side. Most first impressions of the city will be of the urban sprawl of central Kyoto, around the ultra-modern glass-and-steel train station, which is itself an example of a city steeped in tradition colliding with the modern world.

Nonetheless, the persistent tourist will soon discover Kyoto's hidden beauty in the temples and parks which ring the city center, and find that the city has much more than immediately meets the eye.

Understand

Nestled among the mountains of Western Honshu, Kyoto was the capital of Japan and the residence of the Emperor from 794 until the Meiji Restoration of 1868, when the capital was moved to Tokyo. During its millennium at the center of Japanese power, culture, tradition, and religion, it accumulated an unparalleled collection of palaces, temples and shrines, built for emperors, shoguns, and monks. Kyoto was among the few Japanese cities that escaped the allied bombings of World War II and as a result, Kyoto still has an abundance of prewar buildings, such as the traditional townhouses known as ''machiya''. However the city is continuously undergoing modernization with some of the traditional Kyoto buildings being replaced by newer architecture, such as the Kyoto Station complex.

Orientation

Kyoto's city planners way back in 794 decided to copy the Chinese capital Chang'an (present-day Xi'an) and adopt a '''grid pattern''', which persists to this day in the city core. West-east streets are numbered, with Ichij?-d?ri (______, "First Street") up north and J?j?-d?ri (_\____, "Tenth Street") down south, but there is no obvious pattern to the names of north-south streets.

Get in

By plane

  • If you arrive at Nagoya's Chubu Centrair International Airport, Kyoto can be reached in 80 minutes by taking the Meitetsu Airport Line to Nagoya, then changing to the Tokaido Shinkansen.}}
  • Kyoto is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Japan but it does not have its own airport. However there are many ways to get there. Overseas travelers can fly into Kansai International Airport and then get a train to Kyoto. Kansai Airport Station is located opposite the arrival lobby where the Japanese Rail (JR) West Haruka Kansai Airport Limited Express Train can be caught. The best and fastest way to get to Kyoto from the airport is to buy a one-day JR West Kansai Area Pass and take the Haruka Limited Express (non-reserved tickets only). The Haruka Limited Express takes about 75 minutes, with trains leaving every half hour. The pass is for foreigners only and costs \2,000, which is \980 less than a regular Haruka Limited Express ticket from the airport to Kyoto. You will need to show your passport when purchasing a ticket.

    '''Buses to Kyoto from Kansai Airport''', Comfortable limousine buses run from the airport to Kyoto Station, twice an hour, stopping at some of the major hotels along the way. The ride takes 90 ? 135 minutes and costs \2,300 (children \1,1500) one-way or \3,800 for round-trip. Note that the trip can take longer when there is traffic. Bus tickets can be purchased outside of the airport's arrival lobby on the first floor.

    '''How to get to Kyoto from Itami Airport''', Located near Osaka, Itami Airport is Kansai's largest domestic airport. Travelers flying into Kyoto from other areas in Japan will most likely arrive here. The easiest way to get to Kyoto from Itami Airport is by limousine bus. The trip takes about an hour and costs just under \1,300. The buses run three times an hour. Alternatively, you can take a combination of monorail and train, which requires at least two changes (monorail to Hotarugaike, Kankyu Takarazuka Line to Juso, Kankyu Kyoto Line to Kyoto) but costs just \650 and can be completed in an hour.

    By train

    Most visitors arrive at JR Kyoto station by Shinkansen (bullet train) from Tokyo. ''Nozomi'' trains take approximately 2.15 hrs. to Kyoto and costs \13520 one-way. Travel agencies in Tokyo and Kyoto sell nozomi tickets with \700-1,000 discount. If you buy a ticket in an agency, it is "open date" - you can board any train as long as it is not full. All you have to do is show up at the train station, register your agency ticket and then you will be reserved a seat. The trains are equipped with vending machines and attendants selling snacks. ''Hikari'' trains, which run less frequently and make a few more stops, cover the trip in around 2.45 hours, but only the ''Hikari'' and the ''Kodama'' trains can be used by Japan Rail Pass holders at no charge.

    Travelers can also take advantage of the '''Puratto Kodama Ticket''' [http://www.jrtours.co.jp/kodama/], which offers a discount on the all-stopping Kodama services if purchased at least one day in advance. You get a reserved seat and a free drink on board. With this ticket a trip from Tokyo to Kyoto costs \9800 yen and takes 3.45 hours. Note that there is only one Kodama service per hour from Tokyo, and a few early-morning Kodama trains cannot be used with this ticket.

    During travel periods when the Seishun 18 Ticket is valid, you can go from Tokyo to Kyoto during the day in about 8.30 hours using all-local trains. Traveling in a group, is the best way to get discounts. The usual fare is \8000 fare however a party of three costs \3800 per person, and a group of five traveling together drops the price down to \2300 per person.

    For travel in the Kansai region, a cheaper and almost as fast alternative is the JR ''shinkaisoku'' (_V____) rapid service, which connects to Osaka, Kobe and Himeji at the price of a local train. For a slightly cheaper price you can use the private Hankyu or Keihan lines to Osaka and Kobe, or the Kintetsu line to Nara. The Kansai Thru Pass includes travel on the private lines through to Kyoto, and this may prove cheaper that a JR Pass if you are staying a few days in the area.

    By bus

    As Kyoto is a major city, there are many day and overnight buses which run between Kyoto and other locations throughout Japan, which can be a cheaper alternative than shinkansen fares.

    The '''JR Bus Group''' [http://www.kakuyasubus.jp/kanto_kansai/index.html (Japanese Website)] is a major operator of the routes from the Tokyo area to Kansai. Buses operate via the '''Tomei Expressway''' (to/from Tokyo Station) or the '''Chuo Expressway''' (to/from Shinjuku Station).

    Other bus companies offer trips between Tokyo and Kyoto, but it should be pointed out that seat reservations for JR Buses can be made in train stations at the same "Midori-no-Madoguchi" ticket windows used to reserve seats on trains. Moreover, the Japan Rail Pass is valid on ALL JR buses operating from the Tokyo area to Kyoto. ''(Note that the pass is NOT valid on buses to/from Yokohama.)''

    From Tokyo, buses run to and from Kyoto in approximately eight hours. Major bus locations are as follows:

  • '''Tokyo:''' Tokyo Station Yaesu Exit (_____w___d_F__), with a few buses discharging at the Nihombashi Exit (_____w___{____)
  • '''Shinjuku:''' Shinjuku Station New South Exit (_V_h_w_V____)
  • '''Kyoto:''' At Kyoto Station, most buses stop at the Karasuma Exit (___s_w_G____) to the north, while others use the Hachijo Exit (___s_w______) to the south.
  • All buses that run from Tokyo to Kyoto are '''double-decker buses''' and can be classified under the following two categories:

  • '''Seishun (Youth) buses:''' While not exactly targeted at "youth", these are the budget-conscious buses on the route. Seats are narrow with four per row with limited recline. Some of the cheapest buses offer extremely limited amenities however most buses will have a toilet.
  • '''Standard buses:''' These are the regular buses, which offer more spacious seating. Blankets are provided on evening routes.
  • The following services are available: ''(Current as of January, 2009)''

    Daytime buses from Tokyo

    Standard Bus

  • Two daily depatures on the Tomei from Tokyo Station (9:40, 12:20) and Shinjuku Station (10:20, 13:00). Two return trips from Kyoto Station (10:20, 12:20). \ 6000 each way and \5000 if purchased 5 days in advance on most departures.
  • Two daily departures on the Chuo from Tokyo Station (8:40, 10:50) and Shinjuku Station (9:20, 11:30). Two return trips from Kyoto Station (9:00, 11:00). \ 6000 each way and \5000 if purchased 5 days in advance on most departures.
  • Nighttime buses from Tokyo

    The nighttime bus service from Tokyo to Kansai is called '''Dream'''. This route name has several variants.

    Seishun Bus

  • The '''Seishun Dream Kyoto''' runs on the Tomei Expressway. One daily departure from Ueno Station (21:20) and Tokyo Station (22:00). One return trip from Kyoto Station (22:20). On Fridays, weekends and holidays, an additional departure from Shin-Kiba Station in Odaiba (22:20) and Tokyo Station (23:00), plus an extra northbound run from Kyoto Station (23:10). \ 5000 each way; and \ 4500 if purchased 5 days in advance on most departures.
  • The '''Seishun Chuo Dream Kyoto''' runs on the Chuo Expressway. One daily departure from Shinjuku Station (23:10) and Kyoto Station (22:40). \ 5000 each way and \ 4500 if purchased 5 days in advance on most departures.
  • Regular Bus
  • The '''Dream Kyoto''' runs on the Tomei Expressway. Two daily departures from Tokyo Station (22:00, 23:10) and Kyoto Station (23:00, 23:50). One bus departs from Shin-Kiba station in Odaiba (22:20). On Fridays, weekends and holidays, an additional departure from Ueno Station (23:10) and Tokyo Station (23:40), plus an extra northbound run from Kyoto Station (22:00).
  • The '''Ladies Dream Kyoto''' is a special bus for women only. One daily departure from Tokyo Station (22:30) and Kyoto Station (23:20).
  • The '''Chuo Dream Kyoto''' runs on the Chuo Expressway. One daily departure from Shinjuku Station (23:50) and Kyoto Station (23:10). On Fridays, weekends and holidays, an additional departure from Shinjuku (22:30) and Kyoto (22:30).
  • '''For the Dream Kyoto, Ladies Dream and Chuo Dream:''' \ 7000 each way for Monday-Thursday departures and \ 8180 each way for Friday, weekday and holiday departures. There is a \ 1000 discount on most departures if ticket is purchased 5 days in advance.

  • The '''Harbor Line Bus''' departs daily from Yokohama Station at 22:40, with the return bus leaving Kyoto Station at 22:40. \ 7950 one way and \ 5170 if purchased 21 days in advance on select Monday-Thursday departures.
  • Other bus operators

    Another bus provider on the Tokyo-Kyoto route is '''123bus''' [http://www.123bus.net/]. An advantage over the JR Buses is that the 123bus website offers bus descriptions and booking services '''in English'''. However, many services from this company do not allow you to carry large luggage (e.g. suitcases) with you. It is best to confirm with the company whether or not there will be space for luggage before making your booking. Along with Tokyo, it also offers buses to/from Okayama, Hiroshima, and Fukuoka.

    '''Kintetsu''' [http://www.kintetsu-bus.co.jp/highway/index.html (Japanese website)] and '''Hankyu''' [http://bus.hankyu.co.jp/highway.shtml (Japanese website)] also operate buses between Kyoto and Tokyo, as well as other major cities throughout Japan.

    Get around

    The sheer size of the city of Kyoto, and the distribution of tourist attractions around the periphery of the city, make the city's public transport system invaluable.

    One of the easiest ways to plan a route is through <listing name="Hyperdia" url="http://grace.hyperdia.com/cgi-english/hyperWeb.cgi"></listing> or <listing name="Kurage" url="http://kurage.kilo.jp"></listing>. These websites contain station-to-station route plans, which reference public and private trains and subways as well as buses throughout Japan.

    If you are planning to travel beyond city limits you might consider using the tickets from '''Surutto Kansai'''. For use in west Japan, including Kyoto, there are some other useful tickets: a rechargeable smart card, '''ICOCA''', can be used on rail, subway and bus networks in the Kansai area and also Okayama, Hiroshima, Nagoya (Kintetsu trains) and Tokyo (JR East trains). These cards are available at vending machines at these rail stations, and cost 2000 yen, which includes a \ 500 deposit that will be refunded when the card is returned at JR West Station. For use in Kyoto only there are some other useful tickets:

  • The '''Kyoto Sightseeing Card''' can be purchased as a one-day (\ 1200/Children:\ 600) or two-day pass (\ 2000/\ 1000). It can be used for unlimited travel on the subway and city buses as well as a part of the Kyoto bus route. The two-day pass has to be used on two consecutive days.
  • The ''' Traffica Kyoto Card''' is a stored-value card in denominations of \ 1000 or \ 3000. It can be conveniently used up to face value on all subways and buses by simply sliding it through the ticket gate. They offer a 10% bonus value.
  • Check the [http://www.city.kyoto.jp/koho/eng/access/transport.html Kyoto City Webpage] for more information on how to use these cards.

    By bicycle

    Particularly in spring and fall, but at any time of year, getting around by bicycle is an excellent option. Cycling forms a major form of personal transport year-round for locals. The city's grid layout, makes navigation easy. You can rent bicycles in many places in Japan for a reasonable price. During the peak tourist seasons, when roads are busy and buses tend to be crammed beyond capacity, bicycles are probably the best way to navigate Kyoto.

    Kyoto's wide, straight roads make for heavy traffic in many parts of the city, but it is possible to find back alleys that are quieter and offer better chances to happen upon all sorts of sightseeing/cultural gems. Riding on major roads is OK, especially if you are confident and used to riding with traffic on the road, rather than on the sidewalk and especially again if you are used to riding/driving on the LEFT-HAND side of the road.

  • <listing name="Kyoto Cycling Tour Project(KCTP)" url="http://www.kctp.net/en/index.html" phone="075-354-3636">A five-minute walk from the North Exit (the side with the buses and Kyoto Tower) of Kyoto Station. Bikes range from \ 1000 to \ 2000 for an actual 27-speed mountain bike with city-tires on it; perfect for the average foreigner who is used to a 'real' bike in their home country. The following options can be added: bi-lingual cycling/walking map of Kyoto \ 100; light FREE; helmet \ 200; back pack; \ 100; rain poncho \ 100. They can hold on to your luggage while you are riding. There are four other locations of KCTP and you can return your bike to any location, however you will incur a \ 400 charge if you return the bike to a location other than the one you rented from. Guided bike tours are also available ranging from \ 4500 (three hours) to \ 13000 (7.5 hours) that include guide, bike rental, lunch/snacks, accident insurance and admission to some attractions on the tour. Minimum of two people to guarantee departure/maximum of 10. Needs to be reserved three days in advance if you want a tour. Don't worry if the mountain bikes sell out - Kyoto (like Tokyo) is a city with perfect kerb transitions so a 3 speed with basket and bell is fine, if a little bumpy on the river path.</listing>
  • There is a friendly bicycle rental shop across the street from the Keihan Demachiyanagi station, behind the taxi rank. \ 300 for a day, \ 450 for a day and night, and \ 2000 for a month. \ 2000 deposit. Has 22" children's bikes which come with a free helmet. Opens early (<9AM) - 7PM.
  • There is a small rental shop just north of Sanjo Keihan station on Kawabata Dori that rents bicycles, which doesn't have "tourist signs" attached. On the downside, they do not speak English. \ 1000 per day.
  • By scooter

    '''Kyoto Rental Scooters''', ? 075-864-1635, [http://kyotorentalscooter.com/e.htm]. Scooter rental from ¥4000/day, including map, helmet, gloves, waterproof jackets and a free tank of gas. All scooters can be collected from next to Arisugawa stn.(Keifuku line), Uzumasa stn. (JR) or Uzumasa-Tenjingawa stn.(Tozai line). An International Driving License with motorcycle entitlement is required for most nationalities.

    By train

    Kyoto is criss-crossed by several train lines, all of which are clearly sign-posted in English. Although the lines are run independently and prices vary slightly between them, transfers can be purchased at most of the ticket machines. The '''Keihan''' train line can be useful for traveling in eastern Kyoto, while the two '''Keifuku''' tram lines are an attractive way of traveling in the northwest. Across the street from the northern terminus of the Keihan Line is the '''Eidan Eizan''' line, which runs to Mount Hiei and Kurama. The '''Hankyu''' Line starts at ''Shijo-Kawaramachi'' downtown, and connects to the Karasuma Line one stop later at ''Karasuma''. It's useful for reaching ''Arashiyama'' and the ''Katsura Rikyu''; it runs all the way to Osaka and Kobe. '''JR''' lines run from Kyoto station to the northwest (JR Sagano line), to the southwest (JR Kyoto line) and to the southeast (JR Nara line). There are local and express trains so check if they stop at your station before you get on.

    By subway

    There are [http://www.city.kyoto.jp/koho/eng/access/subway.html two subway lines] which only serve a rather small part of the city. The north-south running '''Karasuma Line''' runs under Kyoto Station, and the west-east running '''Tozai Line''' links up with it near the city center. Both are useful for travel in the city center but not really suitable for temple-hopping. The Tozai Line does connect with the Keihan Line, however, which runs parallel to the Kamo-gawa, and is convenient for reaching ''Gion'' and southern Kyoto; it also gets you within a short walk of many of the sights in eastern Kyoto.

    A one-day pass for the subway costs \ 600.

    By bus

    The bus network is the only practical way of reaching some attractions, particularly those in north-western Kyoto. Many buses depart from Kyoto station, but there are well-served bus stations closer to the city center at Sanjo-Kawabata just outside the Sanjo Keihan subway line, and in the northern part of the city at the Kitaoji subway station. Most city buses have a fixed fare of \ 220, but you can also purchase a one day pass (\ 500 for adults and \ 250 for children under 12) with which you can ride an unlimited number of times within a one day period. The day passes can be bought from the bus drivers or from the bus information centre just outside the Kyoto Station. This is especially useful if you plan on visiting many different points of interest within Kyoto. You can also buy a combined unlimited subway and bus pass for \ 1200.

    Unlike most Japanese buses, Kyoto's buses have announcements and electronic signs in English. The municipal transport company publishes a very useful leaflet called '''Bus Navi'''[http://www.city.kyoto.lg.jp/kotsu/cmsfiles/contents/0000019/19770/bus_navi_en200801.pdf]. It contains a route map for the bus lines to most sights and fare information. You can pick it up at the information center in front of the main station.

  • '''Raku Bus''' - The city has three routes (100, 101, and 102) which are specifically designed for foreign tourists wishing to hit the tourists spots quickly. The buses skip many of the non-tourist stops and are thus a faster way to get from one sight to the next. The Raku Bus leaves from platform D2 at Kyoto Station. The cost is \ 220 per ride, but the day passes are accepted as well.
  • See

    Kyoto offers an incredible number of attractions for tourists, and visitors will probably need to plan an itinerary in advance in order to visit as many as possible.

    Japan National Tourist Organization's self-guided "Kyoto Walks" pamphlet is available in a ready to print PDF format here[http://www.jnto.go.jp/eng/location/rtg/pdf/pg-503.pdf]. The guide enables first time visitors to tour the city with ease and with minimum fuss by providing bus numbers, names of bus stops and clearly marked walking routes. There are a variety of self-guided walks in different districts to sample Kyoto's various sites. If you see the browser's dialog box popping up, just click on it till the entire PDF document opens.

    North-western Kyoto

    Visiting the vast temple complexes of north-western Kyoto can take the better part of a day. A suggested itinerary is to take the subway (Karasuma line) to Kitaoji station, and walk west along Kitaoji-dori. Daitokuji, Kinkakuji, Ryoanji and Ninnaji Temples are all on Kitaoji-dori, and about 15-30 minutes' walk apart. En route, you will see the giant "dai" (大) symbol burned on Mt. Daimon-ji, which can be climbed in an hour or so - look for the entrance near Ginkaku-ji (see below). If you're in Kyoto at night on '''August 16th''', look up - you'll see the (大) aflame. Hirano Shrine is a short walk south along Nishioji-dori from Kinkakuji. If you still have time left at the end of the day, take the pleasant electric railway (Keifuku Kitano line) from Omuro to Katabiranotsuji, then take the JR Sagano line from nearby Uzumasa station back to central Kyoto.

  • Daitokuji Temple. _____. 3 Murasakino. earest bus stop: Daitokuji-mae. 75-491-0019. A large temple complex, boasting many smaller sub-temples within its grounds. Daitokuji is the quietest of the temples in north-western Kyoto, and if you visit it at the start of the day, you could virtually have it to yourself. Eight of the twenty-four subtemples open to the public (most days 9am-5pm), and each charges an admission fee (around \400). The two most popular sub-temples are '''Daisen-in''', located on the northern side of the temple complex, which has a beautiful Zen garden, along with delicious cinammon sweets that only this temple has rights to sell/produce (you can sample one if you get the tea or buy a pack for \700), and '''Koto-in''' particularly noted for its maple trees, which are beautiful in autumn, if you don't mind the crowds.

  • Kinkaku-ji Temple . __t__. t's only a short walk from '''Ry?an-ji''' (below), making for an easy pairing (and study in contrasts). ''Nearest bus stop: Kinkakuji-michi'' or ''Kinkakuji-mae''. pen daily 9am-5pm. dmission fee is \400. The '''Temple of the Golden Pavilion''', formally known as '''Rokuonji''' (______), is the most popular tourist attraction in Kyoto. The pavilion was originally built as a retirement villa for Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu in the late 14th century, and converted into a temple by his son. However, the pavilion was burnt down in 1950, by a young monk who had become obsessed with it. (The story became the basis for Yukio Mishima's novel ''The Temple of the Golden Pavilion''.) The beautiful landscaping and the reflection of the temple on the face of the water make for a striking sight, but keeping the mobs of visitors out of your photos will be a stern test for your framing abilities. Get there early if you can to beat the school groups. Visitors follow a path through the moss garden surrounding the pavilion, before emerging into a square crowded with gift shops.

  • Hirano Shrine. _______. 'Nearest bus stop: Waratenjin-mae''. dmission is free. A small shrine, which is an especially popular destination during the cherry blossom season, setting up amusement and food stalls. A small park of cherry trees next to the shrine is hung with lanterns and drawings by local schoolchildren.

  • Ry?an-ji Temple. _____. 'Nearest bus stop: Ry?anji-mae''. pen daily 8am-5pm (Mar-Nov), 8.30am-4.30pm (Dec-Feb). dmission \500. Famous for its Zen garden, which is considered to be one of the most notable examples of the "dry-landscape" style. Surrounded by low walls, an austere arrangement of fifteen rocks sits on a bed of white gravel. That's it: no trees, no hills, no ponds, and no trickling water. Behind the simple temple that overlooks the rock garden is a stone washbasin called Tsukubai said to have been contributed by Tokugawa Mitsukuni in the 17th century. It bears a simple but profound four-character inscription: "I learn only to be contented". There is a fantastic boiled tofu (______ yud?fu) restaurant on the grounds, which you should be able to find by following the route away from the rock garden and towards the exit. It is slightly expensive, but serves delicious, traditional tofu dishes. The rest of the grounds are worth a look too - particularly the large pond.

  • Ninnaji Temple. m_a__. 'Nearest bus stop: Omuro Ninnaji''. 75-461-1155. ttp://www.ninnaji.or.jp/. pen daily 9am-4.30pm. alking around the temple grounds is free however, entrance to the former palace building costs \500. Another large temple complex which is often overlooked by tourists. Admission to the grounds is free, allowing visitors to view the 17th century five-story pagoda, and the plantation of dwarf cherry trees (which are always the last to bloom in Kyoto, in early-mid April). Inside the former palace building (which admission is charged to enter) some beautifully painted screen walls are featured, along with a walled garden. In the hills behind the temple, there is a delightful miniature version of the renowned
  • Toji-in Temple.

  • Jingoji Temple. _____. n front of Kyoto Station, take JR Bus bound for Takao/Keihoku and get off at Yamashiro Takao Station (free with JR Pass), walk down a flight of winding stairs, cross a small bridge, and walk up for about ten minutes.. pen9AM-4PM. dmission fee is \500. An overlooked gem among Kyoto temples, it is an ideal place to visit for those wanting to escape the tourist hordes. It is located in Mt. Takao in the north-western corner of Kyoto. Jingoji Temple was established by Priest Kukai as the head of the Shingon Sect during the Heian Period. Make sure you walk all the way to the back of the temple ground to a commanding view of the Kiyotaki River below wedged between two hills; here you can buy clay disks, which you throw down the mountain after making a wish. The temple is especially lovely in the fall, when the leaves all turn colors.

  • Saimyoji Temple. A former sub-temple of Jingoji.

  • Kozanji Temple. Registered as one of Kyoto's 17 UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

    Western Kyoto

    The '''Arashiyama''' (___R) area to the west of the city is dismissed in most Western guidebooks in a brief paragraph suggesting "other attractions". However, the area is rightfully very popular with Japanese tourists, and is well worth a visit. To get here, take the JR Sagano line from Kyoto station to Saga Arashiyama, or take the Hankyu Line from the city center to Katsura, and change to the Hankyu Arashiyama Line.

  • The walk through a forest of bamboo to '''Nonomiya Shrine''' and '''Okochi Sanso''' (a traditional house, previously occupied by a Japanese silent screen legend), is a real highlight of a visit to Kyoto. No admission fee for the shrine, ¥ 1000 for Okochi Sanso (price includes a cup of matcha, traditional Japanese tea, in the tea garden).
  • Feeding the macaque monkeys atop the mountain in '''Iwatayama Monkey Park''', to the south of the river, is worth the entrance fee (and the demanding climb!). Don't bring food up with you, though - peanuts are on sale inside the shack on top of the mountains, and the monkeys are well aware of it. There's a pond next to the shack, and the monkeys seem particularly fond of the keeper's motorcycle, which is usually parked there. There's a ¥600 admission fee to enter the park; peanuts cost extra, but you know the monkeys appreciate it.
  • Just outside Saga Arashiyama station is the '''19th Century Hall''' - a museum covering the unlikely combination of steam locomotives and pianos. Probably best to look at it from the outside, and listen to the amusing tinny music it blasts out.
  • The picturesque '''Togetsukyo Bridge''' spans the '''Hozu River''', which usually has at least a bit of water in it. If you're interested in a cruise down the river, you won't have to look far - small and large boats, both rowed and motored, are waiting on either side of the river. Be sure to confirm how far and for how long the trip goes, though. Some are as long as two hours, and others will do a quick turnaround in less then twenty minutes. For a 16km trip down the river take the JR Sagano Line from JR Kyoto station to JR Kameoka Station (approx. 20 minutes by rapid express) and turn left when you exit the station. It is a 10 minute walk to the boarding site along a rather busy road. Be prepared to get splashed and take appropriate precautions for electronic equipment. ¥ 3,900 for adults, ¥ 2,500 for children. Departures run from mid March to the end of November roughly on the hour from 9am. Last boat leaves at 3:30pm. During the winter boats with heated seats leave at 10am,11:30am, 1pm and 2:30pm. The drop off point sets you down in the perfect location to stroll around the sights of Arashiyama.
  • '''Tenryu-ji''' (8:30am-5:30pm Mar-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Feb; admission ¥ 600) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the main temple of the Rinzai sect of Buddhism in Kyoto; it's also considered one of Kyoto's Five Great Zen Temples. Tenryu-ji was founded in 1334, but the current buildings all date from the last century - pleasant, but unremarkable. However, there is a lovely garden and pond, designed by the Zen master Mus? Soseki, that is worth a look. The main gate is just beyond the busy intersection with the Togestu-kyo bridge.
  • Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple. ____O____. -5 Fukatani-cho. y bus, take #72 from Kyoto station to Otagidera-Mae, or within Arashiyama, catch #62 or #72.. 75-865-1231. ttp://www.otagiji.org/page014.html. pen from 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM. dmission is \300. Despite being omitted from virtually all guidebooks, it's one of the true unknown gems of Kyoto. It was founded in the eighth century, and went through an unlucky patch for a millennium or so; by turns it was destroyed by flood, fire and typhoon, and had to move location a few times. Today, it sits a short distance from the end of Saga Toriimoto, one of Kyoto's three historic preservation districts. Two fierce statues guard the entrance. Once you're through the gate, though, you'll find over 1200 small (knee-to-waist high) statues, each with its own unique character - you'll see a cheerful boxer near the entrance, but you could spend hours checking out the rest, and you'll do it in relative seclusion, since this is well away from the tourist trail. The statues were carved in 1981 by amateurs under the direction of master sculptor Kocho Nishimura. Moss and forest have begun to reclaim the area, and if you've ever wondered what Angkor Wat would look like crossed with Japanese ''kawaii'', this is your chance.

  • Daikakuji Temple. Saga-Osawa-cho. ttp://www.daikakuji.or.jp/english/index.html.

  • Adashino Nenbutsuji Temple. 75-861-2221. ttp://www.nenbutsuji.jp/. pen 9 AM to 4:30 PM.

  • Gioji Temple. 75-861-3574. ttp://www.giouji.or.jp/top.html. pen from 9 AM to 5 PM. ntrance fee: \300. Mentioned in the Tales of Heike, this is the site where sisters Gio and Ginyo come to devote their lives to Buddhism. Although the temple itself is rather small, the visit is made worthwhile by its vivid bright green moss garden.

  • Takiguchi-dera Temple. ocated on the same road as Gioji, at the end. A quiet, peaceful temple of less interest than nearby Gioji Temple.

  • Jojakkoji Temple. 75-861-0435. ttp://www.jojakko-ji.or.jp/main.php. pen 9 AM to 5 PM.

  • Nison-in Temple.

  • Hokyo-in Temple.

  • Seiryoji Temple.

  • Rinsenji Temple.

  • Horinji Temple.

    Central Kyoto

  • '''Nij? Castle''' (______). Certainly one of the highlights of Kyoto. The series of ornately-decorated reception rooms within the Ninomaru complex is particularly impressive, and known for its "nightingale floors" - wooden flooring which makes bird-like squeaking sounds when stepped on. From the donjon of the inner castle, you can get good views over the castle layout, and the rest of the city. Open daily, 8.45am-5pm, with last admission at 4pm. Admission ¥600. ''Nearest bus stop: Nijojo-mae. Nearest subway station: Nijojo-mae''.
  • The '''Imperial Park''' is a large, peaceful area in the centre of Kyoto, centred around the '''Imperial Palace'''. The Palace itself is only open to visitors on free guided tours - English tours take place at 10am and 2pm Monday-Friday, and bookings must be made at the Imperial Household Agency, located to the west of the palace complex. Show up an hour before the tour, and they'll let you join if there's space, or make a booking for another day if there isn't. Advance bookings can also be made online through the Imperial Household Agency's official website [http://sankan.kunaicho.go.jp/english/].The Palace is a reconstruction (dating from 1855), though, the Emperor doesn't actually spend much time there, ''and'' the guided tour doesn't actually enter the Palace buildings, only peeking at them from the outside, so don't consider it a priority. However, if you're in Kyoto for an extended amount of time, the park can make for a very pleasant afternoon, and it's large enough to let you forget the noise of the city outside the walls. It's home to 50,000 trees, including cherry, plum and peach tree orchards. ''Access: 10-minute walk south from the Imadegawa subway station (Karasuma subway line).''
  • '''The Museum of Kyoto''' is particularly worthwhile if you have a burning interest in ancient pottery, otherwise not really worth a visit. Open daily 10am-8.30pm. Admission ¥500. Located on Takakura-dori. ''Nearest bus stop: Shijo Karasuma. Nearest subway station: Karasuma Oike''.
  • '''Kyoto International Manga Museum''' (___s_____}___K_~___[_W_A__ ''Ky?to Kokusai Manga My?jiamu'') [http://www.kyotomm.jp/international/english/]. Housed in an old elementary school building, the museum holds over 300,000 manga-related items ranging from rare Meiji-era publications to the works of contemporary artists. One of its main attractions is the so-called "Wall of Manga": a vast collection of some 50,000 volumes arranged on shelves running along the building's corridors. Much of the collection is in Japanese, but there is a sizeable selection of manga translated into various foreign languages (including English) on the ground floor. Visitors are welcome to pick out and read anything they choose from the "Wall of Manga" (although the books can't be checked out for offsite reading), which explains the large numbers of children and young adults that throng the museum - and the large Astroturf field just outside - during opening hours. The museum also hosts special temporary exhibitions and other manga-related events. Admission \500 adults, \300 high-school students, \100 elementary school students; special exhibits cost extra. Open 10 AM to 6 PM (last admission 5:30 PM); closed on Wednesdays - or the following Thursday if Wednesday is a national holiday - and during the New Year holidays (as well as during regular maintenance periods). ''Access: 1-minute walk north from the Karasuma Oike subway station (Karasuma subway line).''
  • '''Higashi and Nishi Honganji Temple'''. The majestic main hall of Higashi Honganji, said to be the largest wooden structure in the world, can accommodate up to 5,000 people and is the headquarter of the Shinju Sect of Buddhism. From Kyoto Station, Higashi Honganji is a five-minute walk; Nishi Honganji, a 15-minute walk.
  • Toji Temple. ttp://www.toji.or.jp/. pen 9 AM to 5:30 PM. ntrance fee: \500 (special exhibitions have separate fees). Although its famed for its pagoda, the tallest in

  • '''Kodaiji Temple'''. This temple was built for Toyotomi Hideyoshi's widow by Tokugawa Ieyasu and is located right next to the Ryozen Kannon temple. If you really like temples this is a very nice one. It's got a nice bamboo grove that you walk through on the way out. If you're in the area it's a good sight to see.
  • '''Gion district''' (____). The flagstone-paved streets and traditional buildings of the Gion district, located to the north-west of Kiyomizu, are where you're most likely to see geishas in Kyoto, scurrying between buildings or slipping into a taxi. The area just to the north of Shijo-dori, to the west of Yasaka Shrine, is particularly photogenic - particularly around Shinbashi-dori and Hanami-koji. Sannen-zaka ("three-year-slope") and Ninen-zaka ("two-year-slope"), two stepped streets leading off from Kiyomizu-zaka, are also very picturesque - but watch your step, slipping over on these streets brings three or two years' bad luck respectively. At the northern end of Ninen-zaka is '''Ryozen Kannon''', a memorial to the unknown Japanese soldiers who died in World War II, with a 24-meter-tall statue of Kannon. Admission is ¥200, including a lit incense stick to place in front of the shrine.
  • '''Kenninji Temple''', Japan's oldest Zen temple, has handsome halls and sand and moss gardens, and is of particular interest to art lovers. Sotatsu's famed Edo-period screens of the Wind and Thunder Gods are on display. And on the high ceiling of the Hatto Dharma Hall writhe Koizumi Junsaku's splendid Twin Dragons, painted and installed in 2002. Admission is ¥500. Open daily, 10am-4pm.
  • '''Yasaka Shrine''' at the eastern end of Shijo-dori, at the edge of Gion, is the shrine responsible for Kyoto's main festival - the Gion Matsuri, which takes place in July. The shrine is small in comparison with many in Kyoto, but it boasts an impressive display of lanterns. Admission is free. ''Nearest bus stop: Gion''.
  • '''Maruyama Park''' is the main center for cherry blossom viewing in Kyoto, and can get extremely crowded at that time of year. The park's star attraction is a weeping cherry tree (''shidarezakura''). Main entrance to the park is through Yasaka Shrine. Admission is free.
  • '''Nanzenji Temple''', with its distinctive two-story entrance gate (''sanmon'') and aqueduct, is another popular temple in Kyoto, but its larger size means that it doesn't seem as crowded as many of the others. ''Nearest bus stop: Nanzenji, Eikando-michi. Nearest subway station: Keage''. Open daily, 8.30am-5pm. Walking around the temple complex is free, including the unusual Meiji-era aqueduct that wouldn't look out of place in Italy. There are three regions of Nanzenji that you can pay to enter: '''Sanmon''' - the two-story main gate to Nanzenji Temple charges ¥500 for admission, and offers pleasant views over the surrounding area of the city. '''Nanzen-in Zen Temple''' - a small, but relaxing temple and moss garden behind the aqueduct, dating back to the 13th century, charges ¥300 for admission, and is probably only worth it if you have a particular interest in Zen Buddhism. '''Hojo''' - the abbot's quarters, is a more interesting building, with a small raked gravel garden and some impressive paintings on the sliding doors of the buildings. Admission is ¥500.
  • '''The Philosopher's Walk''' (_N_w____ ''tetsugaku-no-michi'') is the name given to a 2km-long path through north-eastern Kyoto, along which a philosophy professor, Kitaro Nishida, used to frequently walk. It is a surprisingly pleasant and relaxing walk even today, though you will undoubtedly share it with more tourists than Kitaro did. The walk runs south from '''Ginkakuji''' beside an aqueduct to '''Nyakuoji Shrine''', many guidebooks suggest that the walk continues further south from there to '''Nanzenji''', but this southerly section of the walk is less consistently signposted. The route passes several temples ''en route'', notably '''Honen-in''', a beautiful secluded temple with a thatched gate. '''Ginkakuji''' (___t__, the Silver Pavilion) is at the northern end of the Philosopher's Walk. Much like its golden counterpart at Kinkakuji, the Silver Pavilion is often choked with tourists, shuffling past a scrupulously-maintained dry landscape Zen garden and the surrounding moss garden, before posing for pictures in front of the Pavilion across a pond. Do note, however, that major restoration works are being done on the pavilion, which is now surrounded by metal scaffolding. This is not expected to be completed until after 2010. ''Unlike'' its counterpart, however, the Silver Pavilion was never actually covered in silver; only the name had been applied before the plans fell apart. Be sure not to miss the display of ''Very Important Mosses''! Admission ¥500. ''Nearest bus stop: Ginkakuji-michi''.
  • '''Mount Daimonji''' isn't much more than a hill, but it provides a breathtaking (and perhaps the best) view of the city. So if you're in the mood for a hike, this is a pleasant forest walk, taking a little less than an hour. At the summit, you can take a breather and check out the views over the city, or climb the steps and keep hiking through the forest at the top for hours, as long as you don't mind winding up far away from where you started. There's a clearly marked path up the mountain that begins near Ginkakuji. To reach the trailhead, turn left when facing the gates of Ginkakuji, and, before the stone torii (the iconic gate found throughout Japan), turn right and follow the path upwards. You'll soon be greeted with a map of the hill. If you don't know Japanese, don't worry, just follow everyone up the very-obvious path to the summit.
  • Yoshida Shrine.

  • Heian Shrine. 75-761-0221. ttp://www.heianjingu.or.jp/index_e.html.

  • Ginkakuji Temple.

  • Kyoto Municipal Museum of Art. 75-771-4107. ttp://www.city.kyoto.jp/bunshi/kmma/en/index.html. pen 9 AM to 5 PM. Closed Mondays.

  • Eikando Temple. ttp://www.eikando.or.jp/English/index_eng.htm.

  • Kyoto National Museum of Modern Art. 75-761-4111. ttp://www.momak.go.jp/English/. :30 AM to 5:00 PM (on Fridays during special exhibitions, hours may be extended to 8:00 PM). Closed Mondays. 420. (college students receive a discount and special exhibitions require additional costs). An interesting museum featuring works from famous, as well as up-and-coming modern artists. Exhibits change frequently, so its best to call or visit the webisite to see exactly what will featured during your visit. You may also want to make sure they will not be changing exhibitions, as they often close an entire floor of the museum during the transition.

  • Rokuharamitsuji Temple. ttp://www.rokuhara.or.jp/.

  • Ryozen Kannon Statue. ttp://www.ryozen-kwannon.jp/.

    Back near Kiyomizu-dera and further to the southeast, along the Kamo River, are a few more sights:

  • '''Sanjusangen-do''' is definitely worth a visit. It was founded in 1164 and became famous for its 1001 beautiful wooden and gold-leaf covered statues of Kannon, goddess of mercy, housed in thirty-three bays (sanjusan = thirty-three, gendo = bays) in the main hall.
  • '''Kyoto National Museum''' [http://www.kyohaku.go.jp/eng/index_top.html] (9:30am - 5:00pm, closed Mondays; admission ¥500) is near Sanjusangen-do, and has a large collection of ancient Japanese sculpture, ceramics, metalwork, painting, and other artifacts. (It's quite similar to the Tokyo National Museum in Tokyo/Ueno.) The Museum building is fairly grand, but the statue of Rodin's ''The Thinker'' out front is a bit out of place, as there's no Western art inside. It's seven minutes east of Shichijo Keihan.
  • South Eastern Kyoto

    <see name="Fushimi Inari Shrine" alt="____________ Fushimi-Inari-taisha" directions="Keihan Main Line train to Fushimi-Inari Station or JR Nara Line to Inari Station" phone="+81-075-641-7331" url="http://inari.jp/" price="Admission is free" lat="34.967222" long="135.772778"> Another of Kyoto's often-overlooked jewels, about twenty-minutes to the south of Kyoto. Dedicated to Inari, the Japanese fox goddess, Fushimi-Inari-taisha is the head shrine (''taisha'') for 40,000 Inari shrines across Japan. Stretching 230 meters up the hill behind it are hundreds of bright red ''torii'' (gates). A visitor could easily spend several hours walking up the hillside, taking in the beautiful views of the city of Kyoto and walking through the ''torii'', which appear luminescent in the late afternoon sun. Countless stone foxes, also referred to as Inari, are also dotted along the path.

    Local delicacies are sold at the roadside approaching the shrine, including barbecued sparrow (__/______/''suzume'') and ''inari-sushi'' (sweetened sushi rice wrapped in fried tofu), which is said to be the favourite food of the fox. The ''suzume'' is still in a form that resembles the animal (essentially a barbecued bird on a skewer), so those not accustomed may be a bit squeamish. Watch your fingers as you go - the fox spirits are said to be able to possess people by slipping through their fingernails.

    Admission is free. From the city center, take the Keihan line to the Fushimi Inari station, and the foxes will point you in the right direction. Be warned, the shrine is located close to ''Fushimi Inari'' and ''Inari'' stations, but is nowhere near ''Fushimi'' station! You can also take the JR Nara line from Kyoto station to Inari station, which exits immediately opposite the entrance to the shrine. </see>

  • Fushimi Momoyama Castle. This castle was once a favorite of Toyotomi Hideyoshi. The original was dismantled in 1623, but a 1964 reconstruction went up in its memory with a small museum and gold-lined tea room.

  • Tofukuji Temple. ttp://www.tofukuji.jp/english.html. A large temple complex with many small and beautiful gardens nearby. Hordes of Japanese tourists visit during the fall months, when the leaves show a dazzling array of colors, but it's not as well known to foreigners.

  • Jonangu Shrine. ttp://www.jonangu.com/.

  • Daigoji Temple. 2 Higashioji-cho, Daigo. 75-571-0002. ttp://www.daigoji.or.jp/index_e.html. he Garan and Sanboin are open from 9 AM to 5 PM from March through November, and 9 AM to 4 PM from December through February. The museum is open from 9 AM to 4 PM. ach part costs \600 to enter however discount tickets can be purchased to see two (\1000) or all three (\1500). Daigoji is a large temple complex consisting of the garan (main complex), Sanboin Garden, and Reihokan Museum. The size and position of the temple, slightly removed from the city, creates a more peaceful, serene setting. As a registered World Heritage Site, the temple has a lot of history, with the oldest remaining structure being the five-story pagoda built in 951. The Sanboin is the temple's garden, and despite being rather pricey is truly beautiful. The museum houses many of the temple's treasures. Daigoji Temple is famous for being one of Kyoto's best places to view cherry blossoms in the spring and the leaves in the fall. Although the main temple complex is always worth visiting, those visiting in the autumn should consider paying the extra fee to see the Sanboin garden, as it becomes especially beautiful with the vivid colors of the leaves (sadly pictures are not allowed in the Sanboin).

  • Zuishin-in Temple. ttp://www.zuishinin.or.jp/.

    Video game giant '''Nintendo''' has its world headquarters in southern Kyoto. Sad to say, tours are not offered, and visitors are unlikely even to make it into the lobby; the best you'll be able to do is pose for a photo with the company logo on the plaza in front of the otherwise anonymous building.

    Southwestern Kyoto

    The Southwestern part of the city is often divided into the Matsuo area, which borders Arashiyama, and the Oharano area, which is further south.
  • Matsuo Shrine. ttp://www1.neweb.ne.jp/wa/matsuo/index-1/index.html.

  • Katsura Imperial Villa.

  • Umenomiya Shrine. ttp://www.umenomiya.or.jp/.

  • Suzumushi-dera Temple. ttp://www.suzutera.or.jp/.

  • Kokedera Temple.

    The Oharano area is named after Oharano Shrine, one of the most famous sites in the area. While it is not really so far from the bustling inner city, it does not reflect any of the stereotypical images one has when they think of Kyoto. The area feels as though the nearest city is hundreds of miles away, as it is extremely rural. Most tourists are not even aware this area exists, so it can be a nice change of pace for those who have the time to explore the outer regions.

  • Oharano Shrine. ttp://www.kyoto-web.com/oharano/.

  • Shoji-ji Temple.

  • Yoshimine-dera Temple. ttp://www.yoshiminedera.com/.

  • Nagaoka Tenmangu Shrine. ttp://www.nagaokatenmangu.or.jp/.

    Imperial Gardens & Teahouses

    Stroll through the regal retreats of the 3 imperial gardens intersperse with traditional teahouses on its grounds managed by the Imperial Household Agency. These are the Sento Imperial Palace (________) , Katsura Imperial Villa (_j___{), and Shugakuin Imperial Villa (_C_w_@___{), gardens of tranquility for successive imperial families. All 3 gardens are open to the public by obtaining a free entry pass through application. The gardens are at its most scenic during spring, cherry blossom season and autumn where a riot of colors enchant visitors. All 3 gardens are from time to time used as venues for official state functions or for private visits by the current royal family members.

    The Imperial Household Agency maintains a quota on the number of visitors to each site per day. Admission is free. Guided tours are conducted in Japanese only. Overseas visitors can apply online to the Imperial Household Agency in English here[http://sankan.kunaicho.go.jp/english/index.html]. On its website are write ups and videos in English for interested visitors to gauge which ones they would like to visit before making an online application. Please note that advanced applications are necessary on the first day of the month, 3 months in advance of the applicant's preferred tour dates. For example, if your preferred date of visit falls in the month of April, you need to submit your online application by 1 January latest. As these visits are over subscribed by the Japanese and overseas visitors, the Imperial Household Agency has to draw lots to pick the successful applicants. All applicants are notified on the status of their applications whether they are successful or otherwise within a week after closing date.

    If an applicant is not successful, they can still go direct in person to the Imperial Household Agency Kyoto Office to enquire whether there are vacancies in the event of withdrawals but chances may be slim. Address: Imperial household Agency Kyoto Office, 3 Kyotogyoen, Kamigyo-ku, Kyoto, 602-8611, tel: +81-75-211-1215.

    Do

  • A highly-recommended walking tour is the "Walk in Kyoto, Talk in English" tour (16/over ¥2000; 13-15 ¥1000; under 13 free; no reservations, cash only). The tour is given by Hajime Hirooka, better known to the tourists as Johnny Hillwalker. During the five-hour English-speaking tour, Hillwalker shows tourists a large Buddhist temple, a few Shinto shrines, and workshops in the back alleys of the city. The tour operates rain or shine on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays between March and November, excluding public holidays. Departure time is 10:15 AM sharp outside the main (north) entrance of Kyoto station. See [http://web.kyoto-inet.or.jp/people/h-s-love/ Johnnie's Kyoto Walking] for more information.
  • Riraku Spa. yatt Regency Kyoto Hotel, 644-2 Sanjusangendo-mawari, Higashiyama-ku. 81 75 541 1234. ttp://kyoto.regency.hyatt.com/hyatt/pure/spas/. nfo@hyattregencykyoto.com. Seemingly expensive. I would advise going to Takayama for a luxurious yet affordable spa experience (10,000Yen)!

  • Shunkoin Temple. t___@. 2 Myoshiji-cho, Hanazono, Ukyo-ku. 81 75 462 5488. ev.taka.kawakami@gmail.com. ttp://www.shunkoin.com. -10:30 AM, 10:40 AM-12:10 PM, 1:30-3 PM daily. ccommodations: ¥4000-5000; Tour: ¥2000, including ''matcha'' green tea and sweet. The temple's American-educated vice abbot, Rev. Taka Kawakami, offers a detailed English tour of temple and leads Zen meditation lessons. The temple hosts many important artistic and cultural properties related to Zen Buddhism and also connected to Shinto and Christianity, and also offers accommodation for ¥5000/night.

  • '''Geisha walking lecture'''[http://www.kyotosightsandnights.com/walking.html]If your are interested about the world of the Geisha, you shouldn't miss the walking lecture by Peter MacIntosh . The walk will have you tour the Gion district where Peter, will give you an insider's view into the past, present and future of this unique and exotic world. If you're lucky you might see a Geisha walking by to one of her appointments. Reservation is to be made by phone: +81 090-5169-1654
  • During warmer months, Japanese and foreigners alike gather on the banks of the Kamo River to drink, set off fireworks, and make merry. The area around the Sanjo Bridge is the most popular. It's a friendly, welcoming scene. In summer months, on Fridays and Saturdays, a group of fire dancers and drum players occasionally hold free performances.
  • Photo session as Maiko/Geiko. F Ouka Bldg., 576 Gion-cho Minamigawa Shijo-tori Hanamikoji Nishi-iru Higashiyama-ku. ion. 75-661-0858. ttp://www.yumekoubou.info/english/index.html. 0:00am - 8:00pm. ,975yen. If you are interested in having a photo session dressed up as a Maiko or Geiko (geisha) or, for men, as a samurai, several studios in Kyoto provide this service at affordable price. The session includes full make up and dress in a kimono and normally lasts for 1.5-2 hours. Options include indoor or outdoor shots (strolling in Gion dressed up as a geisha!), plus at Yumekoubou they will take a few photos with your own camera while they dress you up, for free. It is recommended to select a plan and make reservation online - in some studios they speak very limited English. More links: http://www.yumeyakata.com/eng/index.html, http://www.maica.net/e/index.html

    Buy

    There is a nice selection of reassuringly non-tacky traditional souvenir shops around Arashiyama station in Western Kyoto, selling fans and traditional sweets. More tacky stores can be found in Gion and the approach to Kiyomizu Temple, selling keyrings, cuddly toys, and garish ornaments. Other traditional souvenirs from Kyoto include parasols and carved wooden dolls.

    More unconventional but colorful (and relatively cheap) souvenirs are the wooden votive tablets produced by temples, which bear an image relevant to the temple on the reverse. Visitors to the temples write their prayers on the tablets, and hang them up within the temple.

    Manga and anime enthusiasts should visit Teramachi Street, a covered shopping street off the main Shijo-dori, which boasts a large manga store on two floors, as well as a two-story branch of Gamers (a chain of anime stores), and a small two-story anime and collectables store.

    Many ATMs in Kyoto do not allow non-domestic credit cards to be used, but ATMs in post offices and Seven-Eleven usually do, so if you find your card rejected or invalid in an ATM then try and get to a post office (_X____ / ''yuubinkyoku'') to use their ATMs instead. Look for the PLUS or Cirrus logos, whichever you find printed on the back of your ATM card. Another option is Citibank, which should work, too. There is an old standby international ATM at the top floor of Takashimaya Department Store at Shijo/Kawaramachi in the "Cash Corner." The bank of ATMs in the basement of the Kyoto Tower shopping center (across the street from JR Kyoto Station) also includes one machine where international cards may be used.

  • '''Gallery Gado''' 27 Miyashiki-cho Hirano, Kitaku (''on Kinukake no Michi, near Kinkakuji''). 075-464-1655. Open everyday, 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM. Gallery Gado sells modern woodblock prints (''ukiyo-e'') with traditional themes. The gallery also has catalogs of the work of artists who are maintaining this art form. All prints are authentic woodblock prints; postcard-sized prints are available for ¥800, medium-sized prints for ¥2000-3000, and large prints for a few ten thousand yen. [http://www.gado.jp]
  • Books

  • '''Junkudo''' (''8th floor of BAL building on Kawaramachi-dori between Shijo and Sanjo streets''). +81 075-253-6460. Open daily 11 AM to 8 PM. Huge bookstore with big selection of English books and magazines.
  • Splurge

    In the shopping areas adjacent to Kiyomizudera (on the other side of the Kamo River), it is possible to purchase samurai swords and top of the line kimonos. Do not be surprised if the prices for either item exceed ¥3,000,000.

    Kyoto incense is also famous. It usually has a very delicate yet fragrant bouquet. Incense is relatively agreeable in price (¥400-2000). You will be able to find it between Nishi and Higashi Hongwanji.

    Eat

    If you've just stepped off the train and the first thing on your mind is a bite to eat, there are several restaurants on the tenth and eleventh floors of the Isetan department store attached to Kyoto station. Most of the offerings are Japanese, including a veritable Ramen village, with a few casual Italian cafes as well.

  • '''Local specialties''' include: hamo (a white fish served with ume as sushi), tofu (try places around Nanzenji temple), suppon (an expensive turtle dish), vegetarian dishes (thanks to the abundance of temples), and kaiseki-ryori (multi-course chef's choice that can be extremely expensive).
  • Budget

  • '''Musashi Sushi''' one of the oldest kaitenzushiya (conveyor belt sushi) restaurants in Kyoto, it is located directly across chain Kappa Sushi at the corner of Sanjo/Kawaramachi. All of the sushi is handmade, though it may take a while to see something new float by. Fortunately, the seats surround the chefs, so you can request whatever you want if you don't see something you like. Price: ¥137 per plate (usually 2 pieces per plate).
  • '''Mikoan''' - Owned by a female Joudou Shinshu priestess. Go here for some good, cheap vegetarian food, as well as to pet her two cats. From Teramachi, go across Shijo and walk down the street for a few blocks. There will be a very small alley with a sign on it that advertises the restaurant on the right hand side.
  • '''Kappa Sushi''' is a chain kaitenzushiya (conveyor belt sushi) restaurant on the corner of Sanjo and Kawaramachi at the entrance to the Shinkyogoku/Teramachi covered mall. Lots of variety and cheap prices, but the sushi isn't handmade — machines are used to cut the rice and fish. Price: ¥100 per plate (usually 2 pieces per plate).
  • '''Kick-up Bar''' is a tiki-themed bar & grill outside the Keage Tozai line subway station (nearest Exit 1) and on the opposite side of the street from the Westin Miyako Hotel. They have the best meatball sandwich in Japan for ¥800 and loaded pizza made from homemade dough (medium for ¥1500). It's a small place, but the food is good, and the owner and his son are American and speak English.
  • '''Santouka Ramen''' is a Hokkaido style ramen shop in the Sanjo-Keihan above-ground plaza & bus station. For about ¥900 they have excellent pork broth ramen. Don't forget the broth-boiled egg for ¥200. Look for the line outside.
  • '''Mr. Young Men''' is a pleasantly grubby okonomiyaki restaurant downtown, at the corner of Shijo and the covered shopping street of Teramachi. Basic English menus are available. A basic dish of Osaka-style okonomiyaki will run about ¥800, although a few variations (including a bizarre cheese and potato version) are available for about the same price.
  • '''Hati Hati''' is an Indonesian restaurant on Kiyamachi, near Takoyakushi. It has great food and atmosphere, but it's occasionally converted into a bar and a performance space for local bands and DJs at night on weekends. For really late night food on Kiyamachi, there is a cheap, open-air '''falafel''' cafe a couple doors down from Hati Hati that never seems to close.
  • '''Donguri''' is a cheap yet very nice okonomiyaki restaurant on the Northwest corner of Kawaramachi and Shijo. It's a sub-level place so it might take a bit to find it. It's next to the OPA department store. It's about ¥500 yen for an okonomiyaki and about ¥300-500 for a namachuu (mid sized mug of beer). Great place for a date or nicer evening.
  • Mid-range

  • '''Kappa Sushi (on Pontocho)''' is a reasonably-priced (for fresh sushi) restaurant. They have an English menu which is, unfortunately, inferior to the Japanese menu. Specials change daily, but are generally on the pricey side. Sit at the sushi bar, and eat well-apportioned nigiri off of banana leaves with your fingers. Not a bad place to try real o-toro for ¥800 a plate.
  • '''Cafe Rue Ribera''' is a new, very beautifully arranged and welcoming petit restaurant and bar that has just been open for a year. Opened by a very nice, welcoming woman who speaks very good English (having spent some time in England). Located just near Enmachi Station on the Sagano Line. Tel/Fax: +81 075-812-2351. Open 11:30am til 1:30am. Lunchtime 11:30am til 2:30pm. Closed Tuesdays.
  • '''efish''' 798-1 Nishihashizume-cho +81 075-361-3069 (''near the Idemetsu gas station, across the river from Keihan Gogo ________ station''. Open every day, 11 AM to 11 PM (until 10 PM in the winter). This cafe, tucked away down a hidden side street, has a trendy ambiance and river views. For lunch, try the okra curry (¥850) or soup and bread set (¥650). [http://www.shinproducts.com]
  • '''Siam''' (_V_____jA tiny but wonderful Thai curry restaurant on Marutamachi-dori about 100m east of Nishioji-dori. The food is delicious, reasonably priced and spice levels are indicated on the menu. Relax in a soft-lit room decorated with exotic paintings from Bali, while the friendly staff prepare your meal right in front of you. English menu available. Open: 11:30-15:30 & 18:00-21:00. Closed: Wednesdays.
  • '''Fuka'''(_n___jLocated west of the Imperial Palace and just a bit south of the Kyoto Prefectural Office, this old shop makes the best nama-fu (wheat gluten filled with sweet bean paste) in Kyoto and supplies many sweet shops and restaurants throughout the city. There might not be enough supplies to sell over the counter, so it is best to arrive early. Open: 9AM-5PM. Closed: Mondays
  • '''Tengu''' A chain izakaya offering their own beer and good shared food with occasional seasonal specials. One is located underground with an entrance near the corner of Sanjo/Kawaramachi.
  • '''Anil''' A nice Nepalese restaurant in the Daini Kankou building 6th floor on Kiyamachi. It's got a great atmosphere and awesome food. The dahl, cheese nan and momo dumplings are highly recommended.
  • '''Vietnam Frog''' Located just above Sanjo-Keihan station this nice little Vietnamese place as pho and other favorites at a moderate price: approx. 800-1500 yen.
  • Sweets Paradise. otokurosu Hankyu Kawaramachi 6th Floor. 75-212-2234. ttp://www.sweets-paradise.com/shop/shijokawara.html. pen from 10:30 AM to 9:30 PM. 1480. Sweets Paradise is the famed all-you-can-eat cake and dessert restaurant. While they do offer some main dishes, no one comes here for anything but the sweets! After you pay, you can eat as much as you want for 90 minutes.

    Splurge

  • '''Pontoch?''' (___l__) is a narrow lane running from Shijo-dori to Sanjo-dori, one block west of the Kamo River. One of Kyoto's most traditional nightlife districts, the restaurants here run the gamut for super-exclusive geisha houses to common yakitori bars. Many have pleasant open-air riverside terraces. Rule of thumb is, any establishment with a menu and prices outside is OK, but others are best skipped.
  • '''Mishima-tei:''' If you have a yearning for ''sukiyaki'', and your pockets are deep, you must visit Mishima-tei at the junction of Teramachi-dori and Sanjo-dori. Here you will be bowed in and shown to your own private tatami room by your personal kimono-clad hostess. There, having helped you to order, she will prepare your ''sukiyaki'' feast on the hotplate set between you. Order the "premium beef", and the richly marbled meat will just melt in your mouth, and require almost no chewing whatsoever: it is delectable ? and it should be since two of you will spend around ¥25,000 in less than an hour on 360 grams of beef and a few vegetables! (although there is a 'tourist set' Sukiyaki 150gms on the menu which results in a bill of about ¥13,600 for 2 (probably only americans will leave feeling hungry)
  • Drink

    Kiyamachi, between Shijo and Sanjo, is packed with drinking establishments. There are the inevitable hostess bars with tuxedo-ed touts pacing out front, but there are also plenty of pubs and block-buildings full of idiosyncratic one room bars as well. Near the Sanjo end, keep an eye out for '''Pretty Space''', also known as "Mushroom Bar", and be sure to compliment the owner on committing to the theme with his haircut. Also on that end of Kiyamachi is '''Rub-a-Dub''', a one-room reggae bar in the basement on the main corner that can either be an over-crowded mess or a box of delirious fun, depending on which record is on (and how much you like Red Stripe) either way you must try the jerk chicken.

    A good start to the evening would be '''A-bar''', a hard-to-find (on 2nd floor) izakaya close to the Shijo/Kiyamachi corners. Food is good and reasonable - daily sashimi specials and fried goods, especially. You share long tables with foreigners and locals alike; a friendly thing to do would be to pour beers (¥550 Yebisu) for your neighbors and Suei-san, the proprietor.

    Nearby is a cafe owned by the photographer Kai Fusayoshi, who created the book "Beautiful Women of Kyoto." It's called '''Hachimonjia.''' Lots of interesting people, from artisans to doctors to people who you can't exactly figure out show up. On Kawaramachi, go north until you see the huge red ball. Look up, and on the third floor, above a blues bar, you'll see a sign for it, although it's in kanji.

    Another excellent, and quite hard-to-find, izakaya is '''Ichariba'''. It is on the second alley between Kiyamachi and Pontochiyo if you come from Pontochiyo's north end. They serve excellent food for the price and the drinks are good too.

  • '''Zen Cafe''' - ¥390 per drink (Spirits, basic cocktails and draught beer) and bar snacks. A place to meet travelers and locals as it is located next to popular hostel "K's House". The staff are friendly and speak good English and are happy to offer advice on what to see and do from a local's point of view.
  • '''Bar Africa''' - bland, but if there's a football match from home that you need to catch, they have cheap Asahi jugs. Also, their foosball table is very well kept. Across from the Hub, infra.
  • '''Bar Moonwalk''' [http://www.barmoonwalk.jp/] offers a large selection of drinks for ¥200 each. Also, finger food available. [http://www.barmoonwalk.jp/shopinfomation_rokkakukiyamachi.html This one] located in the city center is a small and cozy place. Use the elevator to get in.
  • '''Bar This Way''' [http://www.barthisway.com/] is a Dutch owned bar located next to Royal Hotel (between Kawaramachi Sanjo and Oike dori). They offer a large selection of beers especially from The Netherlands and Belgium and many other drinks and food (including handmade gyozasoup). The staff speaking Dutch, English, Japanese, Chinese and German are friendly and prices very reasonable. Bar This Way is on the 3rd Floor (Tanakabld.) and you need to use the elevator to get in.
  • No night in Kyoto is complete without the requisite after hours visit to all-night '''Ing''' (a.k.a., "Box Bar," or "the office"). Proprietor Hako-san will keep bringing you big bottles of Sapporo (¥600 each shareable bottle), happy to join for a drink when offered. Food there is always an option - tofu salad & potato pizza are good for the price (¥600). Get ready for Rolling Stones, competitive Jenga, sharing tables with odd drunk people, and clothes permanently soaked in smoke. Good luck finding it. If you see '''Hamid's Falafel''' you're on the right track. Ing is on the second floor of a building slightly south of Hamid's.

  • '''Bar Eclipse''': near The Museum of Kyoto, this snazzily designed basement bar is tucked away at the back of '''Restaurant Crescent''' open 6pm until midnight and closed on Monday. No charge, drinks from ¥800 served by slickly dressed competent bartenders.
  • The Fushimi district is known for its sake breweries; tours are available at '''Gekkeikan'''.

  • Sake Bar Yoramu. __a_`_q______. ijo-dori east of Karasuma. arutamachi and Karasuma-Oike subway stations. 81-75-213-1512. oram@sakebar-yoramu.com. ttp://www.sakebar-yoramu.com/index_eng.html. pm - 12 am, closed Mondays and first Sunday of the month. From the unusual to the standard, this sake bar has both an impressive selection of traditional Japanese rice wine. Even more impressive is the barkeep and owner, who's from Israel, who can translate your preferences in wine into sake. Well-aged sake is available, busting the myth that sake does not age. Traditionally-brewed sake ranging from slightly cloudy to yogurt-like may also be available.

  • Nikki's Bar. ishi-Kiyamachi 804 Daini Kankou Building. 000-0500. 00yen. This is a nice little bar ran by a gregarious Nepalese guy named Nikki. It's got a great bunch of regulars and new customers are always warmly welcomed. It's located just north of Hamid's Kebab shop. Mixed drinks and beer run ¥700 per drink and shots are ¥500. It's a little hard to find because it's on the 8th floor. If you can't find it ask the folks working at Hamid's.

    '''British and Irish pubs:'''

  • '''The Hub''': on the small streets connecting Kiyamachi to Kawaramachi, lots of TVs for sports, cheap beer (¥700/pint) (especially with a ¥500 membership) and more expensive imports; food, however, is mediocre. This is basically the headquarters for English-speaking tourists and gaijin residents for happy hour. Avoid the cheap cocktails at Happy Hour - they are mostly ice cubes with little to drink. If you want some inside information about where to go, where to eat, what to see, etc., ask a group here. One of the larger bars in Kyoto, it is a popular spot for happy hours and goodbye parties. The real draw is the foosball, darts tournaments, and, upstairs in the back, the pool table.
  • '''Pig & Whistle''': underwent a renovation last year, adding a more stylish whiskey bar to its original drinks bar. This is a popular spot, located right above the Sanjo Keihan subway station. If you hear live music, go on up; though it probably won't be great music, it will draw a crowd. Food here is also mediocre.
  • '''The Gael Irish Pub''': (formerly known as "Tadg's Irish Pub") convenient location if you are downtown (located in Gion at Shijo and Kawabata-dori). Open mic nights can be a mixed bag depending on who comes (always excellent jazz, no longer holding poetry readings apparently). Great portions of food. Definitely go for rugby games.
  • '''Hill of Tara''': a quiet Irish-style pub with good food. A bit more expensive than the frozen stuff from the Pig or the Hub, but a much mellower scene. In the Spring and Summer, they have a nice, though small, second floor balcony.
  • '''McLoughlin's''': Is presided over by the most amiable owner/chef Tadg McLoughlin (formerly of Tadg's Irish Pub), located on Kiyamachi between Sanjo and Nijo. Food is reasonably priced, with main course starting at \1,200 and a 5 course special menu which is great value. Great quality beers, domestic and foreign (including microbrews). The staff are friendly and speak English. Live music on weekends. Giant screen TV (Mr McLoughlin being a Rugby fanatic), darts, foosball and a great view of east Kyoto. Happy hour is 5pm-8pm.
  • '''Kick-Up Pub''': across from the Westin Miyako Hotel, a gaijin-friendly tiki-themed bar with fresh Bass Ale pints (¥800) and ice cold Asahi mugs (¥600). Not a problem if alone because the proprietors, Masuyo and Rick, speak both Japanese and English and are up for a good chat. See the Budget Food section for food information.
  • Sleep

    Kyoto has a wide range of accommodation, much of it geared towards foreign visitors. During peak seasons, when accommodation is difficult to get, consider staying in Osaka. A thirty minute train ride from Kyoto Station to Osaka will cost you \540 one way.

    Budget

    Temple lodgings

    Many temples in Kyoto own and run their own lodging complex known as ''shukub?'' (_h_V), usually located on or near temple grounds. Guests are often invited to participate in morning prayer service (''otsutome'') held at the temple. Unfortunately, most temple lodgings do not have English-speaking receptions, and curfews and check-in/out times tend to be strict.

  • Hiden-in. __c_@. 5 minutes by foot from Sennyuji-michi Stop on buses #202, #207, and #208. 81 075-561-8781. PM. 0 AM. 4,500 per person with breakfast. In southern Kyoto near Fushimi Inari Shrine and Tofuku-ji Temple. Rooms are separated by sliding doors only; maximum capacity: 20; one shared bath.

  • My?ren-ji Temple. __@__. eranouchi Omiya Higashi-iru, Horikawa, Kamigyo-ku. hree minutes by foot from Horikawa Teranouchi Stop on Bus #9 and 12 - the former leaves from Kyoto Station, the latter from Shijo Karasuma subway station. 81 075-451-3527. PM. AM. 3,800 per person (including entrance fee to public bath). Facilities: in-room air-conditioner; no bath but a public bath is nearby; guests should bring their own bath towel and shampoo as the public bath only lends out mini-towels and soap.

  • My?shin-ji Daishin-in. __S_____S_@. 7 Myoshinji-cho, Hanazono, Ukyo-ku. 0 minutes by foot from Hanazono Station on JR Sagano Line or 7 minutes by foot from Myoshin-ji Mae Stop on buses #8, #10, and #26. 81 075-461-5714. 81 075-461-5714. 4,700 with breakfast. 10 rooms with a maximum capacity of 50; in-room air-conditioner, kotatsu heating table in winter, shared bath and toilet. Lights out at 10pm.

  • My?shin-ji Shunko-in Temple. __S___t___@. 2 Myoshinji-cho, Hanazono, Ukyo-Ku. ive minutes by foot from the JR Hanazono station, 12-15 minutes away from the JR Kyoto station by JR Sagano Line. 81 075-462-5488. ev.taka.kawakami@gmail.com. ttp://www.shunkoin.com/. 5:00 - 19:00. y noon. yen;5,000 per person (including a tour of temple and rental bicycle). Zen meditation & tour: ¥2000 (including a bowl of maccha green tea and Japanese sweet).. The only English available temple accommodation in Kyoto. The guest house has two rooms. A room has a private shower room, toilet, and AC (or a heater). Next to the guest house, there is a fully equipped shared kitchen. The temple hosts many important artistic and cultural properties related to Zen Buddhism, Shinto, and Christianity. One of the properties is the Bell of Nanbanji, which is designated as a national cultural important properties. Call or e-mail for reservation.

  • My?shin-ji T?rin-in. 9 Myoshinji-cho, Hanazono, Ukyo-ku. 0 minutes by foot from Hanazono Station on JR Sagano Line or 7 minutes by foot from Myoshin-ji Mae Stop on buses #8, #10, and #26. 81 075-463-1334. 4,700 with breakfast; \6,000 with breakfast and dinner; Shojin meal (Buddhist vegetarian) \3,000 - \8,000; Shojin cooking class \3,000. Only accept reservations from foreigners if they are with a Japanese person. 10 rooms with a maximum capacity of 40; shared bath. Curfew at 9pm. Lights out at 10pm.

  • Roku?-in. ____@. 4 Kitahori-cho, Saga, Ukyo-ku. ear Arashimaya, six minutes by foot from Saga-Arashiyama Station on the JR Sagano Line. 81 075-861-1645. 4,500 per person with breakfast. Only for female visitors. 10 rooms with a maximum capacity of 30; during peak season, guests traveling alone may be asked to share a room with another single guest; towels not provided; one bath. Crowded during autumn foliage season. Curfew at 7:30pm. Closed during New Year's holidays.

    Hostels

  • bAKpAK Gion Hostel. -244 Miyagawa Suji, Higashiyama-ku. 81 75-525-1433. 81 75?525-1433. ixed dorm ¥2500, quad room ¥3500. In the midst of the Gion (geisha district), close to Kaburen-jo Theater, a place for Kyo Odori (Kyoto Dance).

  • bAKpAK Kyoto Hostel. -234 Miyagawa Suji, Higashiyama-ku. etween Kawaramachi and Gion, next to the Minamiza theater. 81 75-525-3143. ttp://www.kyotohostel.net/. orm ¥2500/person to Japanese-style quad ¥14,000/room.

  • Bola Bola Guest House. 5-17 Horigauchi-cho Uzumasa, Ukyo-ku. ear JR Uzumasa train station on the western part of Kyoto, 15 min. train ride from Kyoto station. 81 75-861-5663. ttp://www.bola-bola.jp/top_english.htm. PM - midnight. 1 AM. yen;2500 dorm, ¥3500 private room (¥2500 each for 2 or more people). A friendly and well kept guest house. The owner speaks English and is very willing to help foreign guests.

  • Gojo Guest House. -396-2 Gojobashi-higashi, Higashiyama-Ku. min. walk from Keihan Gojo Station. 81 75-525-2299. ttp://www.gojo-guest-house.com/. -10 PM. 1 AM. orm ¥2500/person, twin ¥6000/room, triple ¥9900/room for three people, ¥12,000 for four. A Japanese style hostel with a cozy cafe located in the Higashiyama area.

  • Guest House - The Earth Ship. 3-15 Naka-Adaticho, Yoshida, Sakyo-ku. ear Kyoto University, 10 min. walk from Keihan Demachiyanagi Station. 81 75-204-0077. ttp://www.eonet.ne.jp/~earthship. ormitory ¥2,500, Private room starts at ¥4,000 for one person, ¥6,000 for two people, ¥7,500 for three, ¥8,000for four. There is an additional discount on these prices for long stays. Friendly shared living room.

  • Guesthouse Yahata. 44 Yahata-cho, Gojo-agaru, Nishinotoin, Shimogyo-ku. ff Gojo-dori, west of the subway station. 81 75-204-5897 (Japanese only). ttp://yahata-inn.com/. -9 PM. 1 AM. unk beds from ¥2,500, private rooms from ¥8000 (2-4 people), with free breakfast.

  • Hirano's B&B Kyoto. 8 Nakano-cho Oshikoji-sagaru, Shinmachi-dori, Nakagyo-ku. min. walk west from the Karasuma-Oike subway station. 81 75-256-3081. r_hirohira12@yahoo.co.jp. ttp://www.geocities.jp/hiranosguest_house/. yen;4000 single, ¥3500/person for two, includes breakfast. A quiet and intimate B&B (three guest rooms), near Nijo Castle. Guests experience being at home with a Japanese family.

  • J-Hoppers Kyoto Guesthouse. 1-2, Nakagoryo-cho, Higashikujo, Minami-ku. min. walk south from Kyoto Station, near Kujo subway station. 81 75-681-2282, SKYPE:jhoppers. ttp://kyoto.j-hoppers.com/. -10 PM. -11 AM. ormitory bed ¥2,500. A new and clean backpackers hostel. Rental bikes ¥500/day, Internet ¥300/hour. No curfew; up-to-date local information by native staff.

  • K's House Kyoto. 18 Nayacho, Shichijo-agaru, Dotemachi-dori, Shimogyo-ku. min. walk east from JR Kyoto Station along Shichijo-dori, 4 min. walk from Keihan Line Shichijo Station. 81 075-342-2444. nfo@kshouse.jp. 81 075-342-2440. ttp://kshouse.jp/kyoto-e/. -10 PM. 1 AM. ormitory room ¥2500, twin/double/triple room from ¥2900, single room from ¥3500 (prices per person). Opened in November 2003, this foreigner-friendly hostel with English speaking staff, has received favorable reviews for reasonable prices, cleanliness and amenities like internet access and kitchens. The hostel itself can be difficult to find, as it is located down a narrow street off the main road.

  • Tomato Guesthouse. 35 Shimizu, Nishi-iru Shiokoji-Horikawa, Shimogyou-ku. min. walk west from Kyoto Station. 81 75-203-8228. ttp://pascon.gozaru.jp/enindex.html. -9 PM. ates ¥3900 - ¥2200.

  • Tour Club. 62 Momijicho, Higashinakasuji, Shomensagaru, Shimogyo-ku. min. walk northwest from Kyoto Station. 81 75-353-6968. ttp://www.kyotojp.com/. ouble en-suite ¥3490 per person, quad en-suite ¥2,930 per person. A friendly, clean hostel with both dorm and private rooms. There is a beautiful zen garden and traditional Japanese-living room. Free wifi, coffee and tea and the chance to try on a kimono. Air-con, bicycle rental and laundry are also available.

  • Utano Youth Hostel. Nakayama-cho, Uzumasa, Ukyo-ku. ff Kitaoji-dori. 81 75-462-2288. tano@yh-kyoto.or.jp. ttp://www.yh-kyoto.or.jp/utano/. :00-11:30 PM. efore 10 AM. orm room ¥3300, twin ¥4000/person. Near Ryoanji and Kinkakuji in northwestern Kyoto. There are three bus lines that go out there (26 from Kyoto Station, 10 and 59 from Sanjo-Keihan station) and the stop is right in front of the hostel (Utano Youth Hostel Mae). Bicycle rentals are available and guests are welcome to use the kitchen, bath and laundry facilities.

    Budget Hotels, Minshuku & Ryokans

  • Budget Inn. ear Nishi-Honganji, 7 min. walk northwest from Kyoto Station. 81 75-344-1510. ttp://www.budgetinnjp.com/. :00-9:30 PM. 0:30 AM. orm bed ¥2500/night, private rooms ¥10,980 triple through ¥14,980 quad. Under the same management as Tour Club (above). A variety of dorm and private rooms, with elevator access. Kitchen and laundry facilities available. Offers discounts for stays beyond 4 nights.

  • Crossroads. 5-14 Ebisu Banba-cho, Shimogyo-ku. 0 min. walk west of Kyoto Station, or #205 bus to Ume Koji Koen-mae then 2 min. walk northwest. 81 75-354-3066. 81 75-354-3022. ttp://www.rose.sannet.ne.jp/c-inn/. PM. 0 AM. hree rooms: one person \4000, two persons \7350, three persons \10,400. A ryokan with shared shower & toilet facilities. 11 PM curfew.

  • Duo Inn. f___I_E_C__. F, 1039-31 Kamiyagawa-cho, Nishi-iru, Onmae, Imakoji-dori, Kamigyo-ku. bout 50 min. from Kyoto Station via #50 bus, or 15 min. walk north from JR Enmachi Station. 81 75-465-8800. 81 75-464-1110. ttp://www.duo-inn.com/eg/. ingles ¥6300, doubles ¥8400—10,500, triples ¥12,600, 2-4 person Japanese-style room ¥14,700. Apartment hotel. Fairly far out in northwest Kyoto but the prices are reasonable. Prices are significantly lower for stays of 7 or more nights. Payment by cash only. No daily cleaning and no bath towels provided. Bus journey from Kyoto Station takes about 50 minutes.

  • Econo Inn Discount Hotel. 7 Hirai-cho, Kawaramachi-Gojo Sagaru, Shimogyo-ku. 5 min. walk northwest from Kyoto Station, or just south of Kawaramachi-Gojo stop on buses 4, 17, 205. 81 75-343-6660. 81 75-343-6667 . ttp://www.econo-inn-kyoto.com/en/. PM - 11 PM. 1 AM. liding rate scale depending on length of stay: singles go from ¥5880 for one night down to ¥3880 for 21 nights or more; a few small short-term singles range start at ¥3780. 21 Western-style private rooms: singles, doubles, and triples. All rooms have a bath unit, air-conditioner and TV. Caters more to long-term stays.

  • GuestHouse Bon. Q_X_g_n_E_X_w_}_x. 3-2 Kamimonzen-cho Murasakino, Kita-ku. min. west of Kita?ji subway station K04, north exit. 81 075-493-2337. ttp://www.guesthouse-bon.com/e-index.html. -10 PM. 1 AM. ingles ¥3800—4500, doubles ¥4500-6000, triples ¥7500. Located in northwest Kyoto, immediately east of Daitokuji. Inexpensive bicycle rentals. The guest house owner has lived in Western countries before and can speak fluent English and a pinch of Spanish. All Japanese-style rooms, but can be converted to dorm style upon request for larger parties.

  • Hotel Chrysantheme. 1, Hirano Kamihatcho Yanagi-machi, Kita-ku. ear Ritsumeikan University, 30 min. from Kyoto Station via buses #50 or 205. 81 75-462-1540. 81 75-462-1571. ttp://www.chrysantheme.co.jp/english/. -9 PM. 1 AM. ingles ¥4800, doubles ¥9600 (without long-stay discounts). Western-style rooms with shower and bath shared between every two rooms. Also oriented towards the longer-stay market, with discounts starting at 5 days and increasing through 30.

  • Hotel Iida. z_e_____c. 17 Shiokoji-agaru, Akezu-dori, Shimogyo-ku. min. northeast of Kyoto Station. 81 075-341-3256. 81 075-351-3051. ttp://www.hotel-iida.co.jp/e-menu.html. ingles ¥5250-7875 (Japanese), ¥6300-7875 (Western); doubles ¥8400-14,700; triples ¥12,600-23,625. Mostly Japanese style rooms, with a few Western rooms, both varieties with or without private bath.

  • Ikoi-no-Ie. e____. 85 Ushitora-cho, Rokujo-dori, Shinmachi Higashi-iru, Shimogyo-ku. 2-15 min. walk northwest from Kyoto Station, 5 min. west from Gojo subway station. 81 075-354-8081. 81 075-354-8068. y arrangement. 1 AM. ingles with shared bath ¥4750, private bath ¥7600; doubles ¥7600-8400 shared, ¥9600-11,000 private; triples ¥9600 shared, ¥12,000-¥13,500 private; quad ¥15,000 private. New facility, opened 2007. All non-smoking rooms, some en-suite. The ground floor rooms near the lobby can be noisy. LAN ports in most rooms.

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  • '''Kyoto Cheapest Inn''' (''Near Nijo castle, 1-3 min walk from bus stop Horikawa Marutamachi & Marutamachi Chiekoin''), e-mail : kyoto@cheapest-inn.com, [http://kyoto.cheapest-inn.com/]. Dorms from, ¥1,000-2,500/night, private rooms, ¥7,800. Convenient locations with transportation, shopping, banks and a post office close by. Credit cards accepted, English available, sheets included. Long Stay Discount. Special offer with winter price, sometimes : ¥1,000-2,000/night (dormitory), ¥6,200- (private suite).
  • -->

  • Kyoto Travelers Inn. __s_g___x___[_Y_E_C__. 1 Enshojicho, Okazaki, Sakyoku. min. walk northeast from Higashiyama subway station T10, exit 1. 81 075-771-0225. 81 075-771-0226. PM. 0 AM. ingles ¥6825 and up, doubles ¥12,600 and up. One of the fewer hotels in eastern Kyoto, near Heian-jingu.

  • Palace Side Hotel. arasuma Shimodachiuri Agaru, Kamigyo-ku. min. walk north from Marutamachi subway station K07. 81 (0)75-415-8887. 81 (0)75-415-8889. PM. 1 AM. ingles ¥6000-7000, twin ¥9000-9800, doubles ¥9800. It's exactly where the name suggests: across the street from the Kyoto Imperial Palace and park, on Karasuma (near the intersection with Marutamachi). It's a Western-style hotel reminiscent of a much more expensive hotel that could use a good scrubbing. The staff speak fluent English, and the front desk is always open, as are computers with Internet access in the lobby. It's often used by academic groups from nearby universities, though, so advance reservations should be made. There are discounts for stays of three or more nights.

  • Ryokan Hiraiwa. _______. 14 Hayao-cho, Kaminokuchi-agaru, Ninomiyacho-dori, Shimogyo-ku. 5 min. walk northeast from Kyoto Station, or take buses #17 or #205 from pier A2 to Kawaramachi-Shomen, the third stop. 81 (0)75-351-6748. ingles ¥4200?5250, doubles ¥8400. A self-proclaimed ryokan (really a minshuku) catering almost entirely to the foreign market, in an old Japanese house plastered with English signs, warnings and tips. All rooms are Japanese style. Traditional breakfast is available for an extra charge. Shared bathrooms or a public bath half a block away. But it's cheap (¥4200 for a single, ¥8400 for a double, breakfast not included) and reasonably friendly, though opinions beyond that vary widely. Slightly inconveniently located halfway between the station and the center of town (it's bit of a hike to either).

  • Ryokan Kyoraku. 31 Kogawa-cho, Shichijo-agaru, Akezu-dori, Shimogyo-ku. min. walk north from Kyoto Station. 81 075-371-7161. 81 075-371-1260. ttp://www.ryokankyoraku.jp/en.index.html. -10 PM. 0 AM. ingles ¥5200-6000 with shared bath, ¥6000-6600 private; doubles ¥9200-10,200 shared, ¥11,000-12,300 private; triples ¥13,800-15,200 shared, ¥16,000-17,700 private. Recently renovated, with 14 Japanese-style rooms (half with private bath, half without) and two Western-style double rooms (both with private bath). 11 PM curfew.

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  • Ryokan Nakajimaya. ukkoji-agaru, Takakura-dori, Shimogyo-ku. minutes walk from exit 15 of the Karasuma subway station. 81 075-351-3886. ingle ¥6000. Very friendly Japanese style ryokan, located in downtown Kyoto. Shared bath and toilets. The owner speaks a little English. Can be booked via the Welcome Inn Reservation Center. -->

  • Station Ryokan Seiki. 4-5, Kitakarasuma-cho, Higashikujo, Minami-ku. min. walk south from Kyoto Station. 81 075-682-0444. 81 075-682-0171. ttp://www5.ocn.ne.jp/~seikis/index_e.html. ingles ¥5500, doubles ¥8000-9000, triples ¥12,000-13,000. Shabby building, but the staff is friendly.

  • Super Hotel Kyoto Karasuma Gojo. arasuma Dori, Gojo Kudaru, Osaka Machi 396-3. 0 min. walk from Kyoto Station, or at exit 8 of Gojo subway station. 81 075-343-9000. 81 075-343-9001. ttp://www.superhotel.co.jp/en/s_hotels/karasuma.html. PM-midnight. 0 AM. ingles ¥6090 (¥5040 off season, ¥7140 peak season); doubles ¥7140-8180-9240. A Japanese budget hotel chain. All rates include tax and breakfast.

  • Toyoko Inn Kyoto Gojo-Karasuma. 93, Gojo-Karasumasho Karasuma-dori Matsubara-sagaru Shimogyo-ku. 5 min. walk north from Kyoto Station, 3 min. walk from Gojo subway station, exit 2. 81 075-344-1045. 81 075-344-1047. ttp://www.toyoko-inn.com/e_hotel/00040/index.html. PM. 0 AM. ingles ¥6200, doubles ¥7200, triples ¥8200. A Japanese budget hotel chain. Good value for twin rooms. Online reservations showing vacancies & bookings available on all sites, enter as "General Guest" if you do not have membership. Two other locations nearby, at Shijo-Omiya [http://www.toyoko-inn.com/e_hotel/00027/index.html] and Shijo-Karasuma [http://www.toyoko-inn.com/e_hotel/00053/index.html], with similar prices

    Midrange

  • Gimmond Hotel. min. walk east from Karasuma-Oike subway station. akakura-Oike-dori, Nakagyo-ku. 81 (0)75-221-4111. 81 (0)75-221-8250. ttp://www.gimmond.co.jp/kyoto/english/e_index.html. PM. 1 AM. ncluding taxes and fees: Singles ¥9,586–10,741, doubles ¥16,170, twin rooms ¥16,747–23,100. A foreigner-friendly hotel, neat and tidy and located downtown near City Hall. Discount for Internet booking.

  • Hearton Hotel Kyoto. igashi no Toin Dori Oike Agaru, Nakagyo-ku. min. northeast of Karasuma-Oike subway station, exit 1. 81 (0)75-222-1300. 81 (0)75-222-1313. ttp://www.heartonhotel.com/kyoto/. PM. oon. ingle ¥11,000, twin ¥22,400. Mid range, Western-style hotel located downtown.

  • Hotel Monterey Kyoto. Jyo Minami Karasuma-dori, Nakagyo-ku. est side of Karusuma, south of Sanjo. 81 (0)75-251-7111. PM. 1 AM. ingles around ¥15,000–18,000, doubles around ¥20,000–23,000. Opened in March 2007 the staff are very keen to please. 15 minute stroll to '''Sanjo Shopping Arcade''' and less than five minute walk from subway station. Rates vary but they have discounts for internet booking and travel agents offer combined JR tickets and room rates. Includes spa and two restaurants (French and Japanese).

  • Kyoto Garden Hotel. uromachi-dori, Oike Minamiiru, Nakagyo-ku. bout 1 min. west of Karasuma-Oike subway station (Karasuma subway line), exit 4-1. 81 75-255-2000. ttp://www.kyoto-gardenhotel.co.jp/index.html. PM. 0 AM. ingle \9,240, double \12,600-13,650, twin \14,700-16,800, triple \19,950. ffice@kyoto-gardenhotel.co.jp. 81 75-255-2389. Convenient downtown location; a short walk away from the Kyoto International Manga Museum, a long (but manageable) walk away from Nijo Castle. All rooms are non-smoking. Guests with their own LAN-enabled laptops/netbooks can get internet access in their rooms free of charge; just borrow a connection kit from the front desk. Actual rates vary depending on the time of year and discounts/special offers are available for online bookings.

  • Kyoto Tower Hotel. arasuma-dori Shichijo-sagaru. Shimogyo-ku. min. walk north from JR Kyoto Station, immediately across the street. 81 (0)75-361-3212. 81 (0)75-343-5645. ttp://www.kyoto-tower.co.jp/kyoto_tower_hotel_chain/. PM. 1 AM. yoto Tower: Singles ¥8,000–14,500, twin ¥16,000–31,000. Annex and Dai-Ni: ¥6,500–11,500, twin ¥14,000–¥19,800. Foreigner-friendly hotel, and the location across the street from JR Kyoto Station is impossible to miss. The same company operates two additional hotels nearby: the '''Kyoto Tower Hotel Annex''', a few blocks northwest, and the '''Kyoto Dai-Ni Tower Hotel''', east of the station.

  • Ryokan Shimizu. 44 Wakamiya Agaru Shichijo, Shimogyo-ku. min. walk northwest from Kyoto Station, near Nishi-Honganji. 81 (0)75-371-5538. 81 (0)75-371-5539. ttp://www.kyoto-shimizu.net/. yen;6,000/person (¥5,000 during winter), higher near holidays. A modern style ryokan which is welcoming to foreign visitors. The owners can speak some English. En-suite facilities are provided and a Japanese style breakfast is available. There is a communal Japanese bath facility.

    Splurge

  • Hyatt Regency Kyoto" address="644-2 Sanjusangendo-mawari, Higashiyama-ku" directions="Near Shichi-jo station on the Keihan line, or you can take buses #206, #208, or #100 from JR Kyoto station" phone="+81 75-541-1234" email="info@hyattregencykyoto.com" price="¥43,000 for twin room" url="http://kyoto.regency.hyatt.com/" >5 star hotel with contemporary interior design. All its restaurants feature show kitchens, which is a first in Kyoto.</sleep>

  • Kyoto Hotel Okura. awaramachi-Oike, Nakagyo-ku. t Kyoto Shiyakusho-mae subway station, T12. 81 75-211-5111. 81 75-254-2529. ttp://www.kyotohotel.co.jp/khokura/english/. PM. 1 AM. yen;19,000 for a single, through ¥49,000 for a double-occupancy corner room; top-floor suites climb higher still. A large, modern Western-style hotel located downtown.

  • New Miyako Hotel. V_s_z_e__. 7 Nishikujo-Inmachi, Minami-ku. cross street from Kyoto Station, Hachijo exit. 81 (0)75-661-7111. 81 (0)75-661-7135. ttp://www.miyakohotels.ne.jp/newmiyako/english/. PM. 1 AM. yen;11,550 singles through ¥57,750 suites, tax included. The largest hotel in Kyoto with over 700 rooms, and the prices to match: starting at ¥10,000 for singles and ¥21,000 for doubles. Located immediately south of Kyoto station. If you get a room facing north, you'll be able to see the bullet trains coming in and out of the station, as well as the glass windows from the exterior of the Isetan department store that seem to reflect the sky if the weather conditions are just right. The new and slightly more expensive south wing opened in late September of 2005.

  • Ryokan Tamahan. 77 Gion, Shimogawara-cho, Higashiyama-ku. ion District, 10 minutes by taxi from Kyoto Station. 81 75-561-3188. ttp://tamahan.jp/. pm. 1am. 25,000 per person. Traditional Ryokan in quaint Gion district. It's worth the experience for at least one night. The price includes Japanese dinner and a choice of Japanese or Western breakfast. There is free wifi access. Staff are friendly but speak limited English.

  • Westin Miyako Kyoto. eage, Sanjo, Higashiyama-ku. 81 (0)75-771-7111. 81 (0)75-751-2490. ttp://www.miyakohotels.ne.jp/w_m_kyoto/english/. PM. 1 AM. Established in 1890, this is the oldest Western-style hotel in Kyoto. It has over 400 rooms, starting at ¥33,000 for twins. (If you make a reservation through a travel agency, you may get a lower price.) It has about 30,000 square meters, and a few Japanese gardens, one of which, Aoiden (___a____) was built by Jihei Ogawa (_________q). The gardens can be visited by non-guests. It's near Keage Station (subway - Tozai Line, T09), or you can take a shuttle bus from JR Kyoto Station.

    Get out

  • Amanohashidate - literally "the bridge to heaven", it is considered one of Japan's top three scenic view (along with Matsushima in Miyagi prefecture and Miyajima in Hiroshima prefecture). It forms a thin strip of land straddling the Miyazu Bay in northern Kyoto Prefecture, hence the name. Visitors are asked to turn their backs toward the view, bend over, and look at it between their legs.
  • Himeji - about an hour by Shinkansen west of Kyoto, Himeji boasts a spectacular traditional castle.
  • '''Miho Museum''' [http://www.miho.or.jp/english/] - an hour southeast of Kyoto deep in the hills of Shiga prefecture. Building designed by I.M. Pei. Closed in winter.
  • Mount Hiei - an ancient hilltop temple complex that traditionally guarded (and occasionally raided) Kyoto.
  • Otsu - home to some great historical temples, Mount Hiei, and one of Lake Biwa's ports.
  • Lake Biwa - if the summer humidity has drained your will to sightsee, take a day swimming at the underrated beaches of western Lake Biwa. Popular choices include Omi Maiko and Shiga Beach, each about 40 minutes from Kyoto on the JR Kosei Line.
  • Nara - less than an hour's journey by train on the JR Nara line from Kyoto station, Nara is an even older capital than Kyoto and has a stunning collection of temples in a giant landscaped park
  • Osaka - about half an hour from Kyoto by JR rapid train, this bustling city offers more retail opportunities and a central castle.
  • Uji - the best tea in Japan and the Byodo-in temple.
  • Kurama - less than an hour's journey by a local train from Kyoto Demachi-Yanagi station, small village of Kurama has real ''onsen'' (Japanese natural hot spring).