'''Caye Caulker''' [http://www.gocayecaulker.com/] is a small island off the coast of Belize. It's popular with backpackers and budget travelers for its (relatively) cheap prices, laid-back vibe, and abundance of restaurants and bars. There aren't really any proper beaches to speak of, but plenty of docks are spread around the island where you can pull up a plastic chair and get your sun on, or hang out at one of the ocean front restaurants.

There are only 3 roads in town, all sandy. Front Street runs along the east coast, Back Street along the west coast, and Middle Street exactly where you'd expect it. The vast majority of places of interest to a visitor will be found along Front St and the west coast.

Get in

By air

There is an airstrip on the southern end of Caye Caulker, and is served by both Maya Island Air and Tropic Air. Flights leave hourly from Belize City to San Pedro, and will stop here if there is demand. Cost from the municipal airport is Bz$54 one-way, and takes about 10-15 minutes, making it a very reasonable option. Both airlines also fly from the International airport, but will cost quite a bit more.

If you're coming in from Mexico you can fly from Corozal, 20 minutes from the Mexican border at Chetumal. The flights stop in Ambergris and Caye Caulker if there's demand, and will save you the 4+ hour bus ride to Belize City.

By sea

Catch a Water Taxi from the Marine Terminal in Belize City. Water taxis (speedboats) leave for Caye Caulker every one to two hours during the day. The ride takes about 45 minutes, and then continues on to San Pedro. On windy days the trip can be a little rough, but most times is smooth. Sit towards the back of the boat for a smoother ride.

  • [http://www.cayecaulkerwatertaxi.com/ Caye Caulker Water Taxi Association] - $15Bz one-way, or $30Bz round-trip. They will leave earliest in the Day from Caye Caulker to Belize City
  • [http://www.triplejbelize.com/ Triple J Water Taxi] - $15Bz one-way and $25Bz round-trip.
  • Get around

    There are only three main streets on Caye Caulker - Front Street, Middle Street and Back Street - none of which are paved. '''Front Street''', the easternmost street, is the busiest and has almost everything for tourists on it. Everything is within walking distance - it takes approximately 20 minutes to slow-walk from the Front Pier to almost anywhere.

    There are few cars on the island, so everyone gets around on golf carts, bicycles or on foot. With a golf cart, you can go around the entire island in 30 minutes. A taxi ride (in a golf cart) costs 5 BZ$ per person, or you can rent a bicycle for 5 BZ$ per hour, or 15 BZ$ per day.

  • [http://www.tsunamiadventures.com/ Tsunami Adventures] - Bike and golf cart rentals
  • See

  • '''The Forest Reserve''' covers the northern 100 acres of the island. It's mostly dense mangrove forest. The local Audubon group sometimes organizes morning birdwatching tours.
  • '''Caye Caulker Marine Reserve''', also known as the local reef. The local reef is close enough that you can see the waves breaking on it from the island itself.
  • '''Hol Chan Marine Reserve''', 4 miles (6.4 km) south of San Pedro, Ambergris Caye, tel: 226-2247 (''E-Mail: hcmr@btl.net''), [http://ambergriscaye.com/holchan/]. Has been protected for longer than the local reef, and so it usually has more mature marine life (i.e. bigger fish) as well as more people, though it's never terribly crowded. It's further away than the local reef.
  • '''Shark and Ray Alley'''. Tour operators will toss food into the water in order to attract nurse sharks and southern sting rays. You can swim with them, and even touch them if you're quick. Nurse sharks can bite, contrary to myth, but they are also territorial so these sharks are very used to humans.
  • '''The Blue Hole''' is a 40 meter deep circular hole in the ocean, with many fish, sharks, and corals. The Blue Hole is possibly the most famous dive site in Belize, even though it's nearly straight down. It's at least an hour boat ride away from Caye Caulker.
  • Snorkeling

    Short "half-day" snorkeling tours are offered by numerous local businesses for approximately $40Bz per person. They usually leave at 10:30am and 2:30pm. Stops include the local reef, the Coral Garden, and Shark and Ray Alley.

    Longer "Full-day" snorkeling tours are offered by numerous local businesses, for approximately $100-110Bz. They usually leave around 10AM and return around 4:30PM. Stops include the Coral Garden, Shark and Ray Alley, and Hol Chan Marine Reserve. Be sure to check whether your tour guide will include lunch, since some only include snacks. Some of them includes lunch, snacks, and a Rum Punch "happy hour" on the way back. With all operators, check to make sure they have equipment that is in good shape.

    The creation of '''Swallow Caye Wildlife Sanctuary''' - a manatee reserve near Belize City is due to the efforts of a Caye Caulker local named Chocolate. He offers guided tours to the '''Manatee reserve''' approximately every other day, as do a few other tour operators. Chocolate's shop is at the north end of Front Street, near Ragamuffin Tours. Be warned that you don't get to swim with the manatees in the sanctuary and some days may be more difficult to see them. Most manatee tours include one or two snorkeling stops. Manatees can be seen all year long, and in the summer months can be seen near Hol Chan Marine Reserve as well as other local areas. The younger ones are curious and will swim close to you, unlike the more mature manatees, which generally avoid people (for good reason).

  • '''Seagull Adventures''', about a block from the Front Pier, offers snorkeling tours to more distant locations that most other tour guides will only go to for diving. Examples include Blue Hole (about $230Bz per person), Tourneffe Atoll (about $120Bz per person), etc. Ask the owner a few days in advance to find out what the schedule is. The best time to catch her is in the evening, around 6pm -- during the day she's usually gone on the snorkeling trips.
  • '''Carlos Tours''' next to the Sandbox Restaurant is another local favorite.
  • Diving

    Caye Caulker is popular with divers, and there are several '''dive shops''' on the island. Local dive shops offer trips to the Blue Hole, the Turneffe Atoll, Half Moon Caye, Hol Chan Marine reserve, and others. Check in a few days in advance to find out what their schedule is.

    You can get your Open Water PADI certification at Belize Diving Services for about $600Bz ($300US). It takes 3-4 days, providing the weather is fair. The certification includes 2 shallow-water dives, and 4 open-water dives. All dives are done in the ocean, since they have no swimming pool. Belize Diving Services is located near the soccer field, in the northern half of the town. Similar services and prices are offered at Frenchie's, near the Split.

    Sea Kayaks

  • '''Tsunami Adventures''', extreme north end of Front St., [http://www.tsunamiadventures.com/]. This is a great way to explore the northern mangrove forest. Head for the leeward side of the island (the west side) for smoother water and to avoid paddling into the wind. Cost for a two-person kayak is $15Bz per hour for the first hour, then $10Bz for each additional hour.
  • Do

    Caye Caulker is a small, very laid-back Caribbean island. In fact, its motto is "Go Slow" and that is exactly what you should do. It is an ideal place to spend a few days while taking a break from travelling around the rest of Central America.

    Chill out at '''The Lazy Lizard''' located at "the split," a little bar on its own near what can only be described as the island's only beach, however, do not expect Rio or Hawaii - there is no sand here. The "beach" is a sunken area of a picnic area surrounded by cement sea walls, damage from the hurricane and smartly kept as it was in 1961. On the walls you'll see the young and hip lazing about, catching a tan. When it gets too hot, you can jump into the water and climb back again, or make the short walk to the Lazy Lizard to refresh your drink.

  • Red Mangrove Eco Adventures. ront Street, Caye Caulker. 26 0069. ttp://www.mangrovebelize.com. Eco friendly small group snorkel tours to local sites and Turneffe Atoll

    Diving and Snorkeling

    Much of the activity on the island centers around snorkeling (about a dozen operators offering trips) and scuba diving. The prices at all the shops are basically the same. The local diving is at Hol Chan Marine Reserve, a 30 minute boat ride away. A little further out is Spanish Bay, Caye Chapel, and some other sites. Long distance trips to Turneffe Atoll and the famous Blue Hole are regularly available.

    There are five local dive shops:

  • '''Paradise Down''' Run by an American. Very professional, very organized, and bigger trips. They seem to offer the long distance trips (Blue Hole and Turneffe Atoll) more frequently.
  • '''Frenchies''' Run by a Belizian. Very friendly and laid back.
  • '''Belize Diving Services,Caye Caulkers only PADI Resort facility. Small groups, safety, and "Worry-Free diving"'''
  • '''Big Fish Diving'''
  • '''Black Durgon''' Run by Simeon. Takes small groups no larger than 6.
  • There are also operators on nearby Ambergris Caye that can pick you up if the local shops aren't going where you want.

    The '''cost of various trips''' varies according to the distance from Caye Caulker. Typical costs are:

  • Local dives (Hol Chan, Spanish Bay): $US 90 (2 tank dives)
  • Turneffe Atoll: $US 150 (3 tank dives)
  • Blue Hole: $US 150 (3 tank dives) plus $US 40 park permit
  • Other Activities

    You can also book various activities at many places on the island, such as

  • '''Sailing tours'''.
  • '''Tours''' to Maya ruins (on the mainland).
  • '''Cave tubing''' (on the mainland).
  • '''Manatee watching''' Tours normally include a snorkeling stop at Sergeant's Caye (on the barrier reef) and a short visit to St. George's Caye. There are many tour operators out of Caye Caulker, San Pedro and Belize City who do manatee watching trips. Visit Swallow Caye Wildlife Sanctuary that was set up by Chocolate Heredia, Belizean native and award winning conservationist. 9,000 acres of sea and mangrove became a protected area in July of 2002. Visit the site for more info: [http://www.swallowcayemanatees.org/ Friends of Swallow Caye]
  • Eat

  • '''Marla's kitchen''' is the price/quality place in town, with a huge BBQ she prepares the best lobster in town, another tip is the day special with 5 sides!!!
  • '''The Sandbox''', located right near the Front Pier, has good food at reasonable prices. This is the only place on the island where you can get a veggie burger.
  • '''The Bamboo Grill''' next to Rasta Pasta has good fish and shrimp dishes, but chicken is also available. Friendly hostess.
  • Look up a small, small place one block off Front Street called '''Wish Willy's'''. It is laid back and in the chef's (Maurice) backyard. The food is fresh, tasty, and very reasonable and Maurice is very friendly. He also makes a great rum punch.
  • '''Habaneros''' on Front Street has great food for lunch and dinner, but at high prices (for the island).
  • '''Don Corleone''', an expensive Italian restaurant on Front Street.
  • '''Glenda's''', Back Street near the microwave tower, serves eggs, bacon, a cinnamon roll, and coffee for just $US 3.50.
  • '''Jolly Roger''' is located on Front Street. For 25 BZ$ you can get catch of the day (lobster, snapper, baracuda) with garlic bread, mashed potatoes, rum punch and a small desert. The grilled seafood is delicious (like everywhere else), but the lack of hygiene and running water means you need a robust digestive system and a bit of luck if you want to avoid food poisoning.
  • '''Femi's Bar and Lounge''', Front Street, a little south of the Lazy Lizard. Great lunch, dinner, and drink specials on a pier overhanging the sea.
  • '''Fran's''' - Roger's sister, her fare is similar to that of Jolly Roger's, for the same price. Located across the street from the Miramar Hotel.
  • '''Caye Caulker Bakery''', Back Street, ''just North of Chan's Grocery''. Opens at 7:30AM. Serving a mixture of sweet and Savory foods. The ham and cheese turnover (if available) is exceedingly delicious and is a filling breakfast on its own.
  • Buy

    Like most of Belize, most shops accept US Dollars, $1 US equals $2 Belizian. Prices will be posted in Belizian dollars, but always confirm before making a purchase.

    There are 2 ATM's on the island. One ATM is for local cards only and another ATM accepts foreign cards. Often on weekends, ATM's run out of money, so stock up on your money in Belize City.

  • Gift shops along the Front Street sell mainly t-shirts, hammocks and souvenirs. Vendors can be found along the main street selling a variety of crafts and jewelry.
  • '''Caribbean Colors Art Gallery''', Front Street. Art gallery on Caye Caulker.
  • '''Chocolate's Gift Shop''', Front Street ''near the split''. Sells beautiful sarongs and clothing from Bali. Nice sarongs and silver jewelry.
  • Drink

  • '''The split''' is the place where hurricane Mitch split the island in two. (It was actually hurricane Hattie in 1961, a bit of dredging and currents that really formed the split) There is a bar just next to the split called the Lazy Lizard. Good place for a binch while watching large tarpons, and rays just swimming by.
  • Check out the '''I&I reggae bar'''. Great place to hang out on a hammock or swing with a cocktail. From the top deck you can see the whole island, eerily peaceful at night.
  • The '''Sports Bar''' (they have a couple of TVs tuned to ESPN) is right across from Rasta Pasta and the Police Station and occasionally has live music. The food is pretty good and it's a nice place to grab a beer in the shade on a hot day.
  • '''Oceanside''' has dancing and/or live music from time to time, and can be a popular destination on weekend nights before midnight.
  • '''Sunset View''' - a disco on the back side of the island just north of the soccer field. It is only open from 11PM on weekends (it doesn't get going until 1AM), but you will see a different side of the island - DJs spin reggae, punta, and other caribbean music and the locals cut loose and dance in a surprisingly large room -- be prepared to be one of the few tourists there, but it is great fun if you like music and dancing.
  • Sleep

  • '''Tinas Backpackers''' is the hostel on the island, just next to where the watertaxi lands. A social place and this is the way a hostel should be!
  • Many other high quality lodging facilities are available for $20-$30 per night. Don't get ripped off by the rental companies charging $60 or more per night, they are run down, and a complete rip off.
  • Da Real McCaw. 50-210USD two beds. ttp://www.derealmacaw.com/. Great place, quiet, hammocks on porches right across from beach.

  • '''Blue Wave Guesthouse''': Near the split, across from Ragamuffin Tours. Deals can be had for a room with balcony, (cable)TV, private bathroom for B$60 per night. Nice and new.
  • Contact

    Caye Caulker has internet access, but the island is served by a single hard line to the mainland and is therefore prone to bandwidth problems and interruptions.

    There are several internet cafes and WiFi hotspots on the island.

  • '''Cayeboard Connection''' is open from 08:00 to 21:00.
  • Get out

    Water taxis leave the island for Belize City from early in the morning till the end of the day.