Although made up of many diverse ethnic groups and tribes, Kenyans have strong sense of national pride which may be due in part to unity in the struggle for ''Uhuru'' (Kiswahili: "freedom") ? independence from British colonial rule, achieved in 1963. Most Kenyans seem optimistic about the country's future. Kenyans understandably pursue the business opportunities offered by tourism with a zeal that may be off putting to some visitors, but are usually open, talkative and friendly once business matters have been settled.
Although foreign visitors are now a common sight in many parts of the country, there still exist vast areas off the beaten track where a white or yellow face will attract cries of "''Mzungu! Mzungu!''" (Kiswahili: "white person") from local children. Visitors to these areas should think especially carefully about the long term effects of their visit on the local community, and should for example '''avoid giving out sweets or money''' without restraint ? merely playing with children, or talking to and helping villagers will yield far better results than merely giving out handouts.
Hominid fossils of significant scientific interest have found in the Rift Valley area, and it is often believed that this area of Africa is where the human species originated from.
For all others, visas may be obtained through an embassy prior to departure, valid for six months from the date of issue. The current (Feb 2009) costs for visas are: US$20 (transit), US$50 (single-entry), & US$100 (multiple entry). Unlike some contries' visas, the application for a Kenyan visa is short (1 page) and not very detailed and will be returned in 10 days, except 12-16 days during the busy May-August season.
Visas are available at international airports on entry. There is a separate line at immigration for those who require tourist visas. Ensure you are in the correct line at the airport to avoid additional wait. No photos are required, just US$50 per person for the most common single entry visa.
Kenya Airways [http://www.kenya-airways.com/] (KQ) is the national airline. KQ has extensive regional (Jo'burg-South Africa, Harare-Zimbabwe, Cairo-Egypt, Entebbe-Uganda, Accra-Ghana, etc) and international connections (Dubai-UAE, London-UK, Amsterdam-Netherlands, Mumbai-India, etc). It is also a SkyTeam associate member.
Kenya has three International airports:
Jomo Kenyatta is the primary arrival point for visitors flying into Kenya. There are excellent flight connections provided by KQ to major tourist destinations such as Mombasa, Kisumu and Malindi.
Major airlines that serve NBO are:
An increasing number of airlines are flying to Kenya, and Nairobi's Jomo Kenyatta International Airport has become a hub for East and Central Africa. National carrier and biggest airline in the country is Kenya Airways, which (among others) also provides direct flights from Nairobi to several West African countries, e.g., Lagos in Nigeria, Bamako in Mali, as well as direct flights to Bangkok and connections to Hong Kong and China. A recent code-share agreement with Korean Airlines has also brought the Korean peninsula within reach.
Beware of overland routes coming through the northern deserts as these are essentially lawless regions. Most vehicles traveling through the area travel via armed convoy.
Nairobi (Kenya) & Arusha (Tanzania); Nairobi (Kenya) & Kampala (Uganda); Mombasa (Kenya) & Dar-es-Salaam (Tanzania); Kisumu (Kenya) & Kampala (Uganda);
Reliable bus services on these routes include Akamba Bus, Scandinavian and Regional.
Most international visitors will arrive through Jomo Kenyatta International Airport (JKIA) in Nairobi (NBO). If you are already in Nairobi and need to get to the airport, please make sure that you plan at least two hours to get there as the main road to the airport has heavy traffic jams, and security checks are tedious.
Kenya Airways (KQ) offers the most scheduled connections from JKIA and regular daily flights to the following destinations: Mombasa, Malindi, Lamu and Kisumu. A return flight from Nairobi to Mombasa will cost about Ksh 11,000. Online booking is available. Check in is 45 minutes before departure for local flights and two hours for international. Pay attention to the announcements while in Unit 3 of JKIA as passengers on different flights are put in the same waiting area. If you are flying from another destination to Nairobi and using Kenya Airways in the tourist high season (July-September, December-February), note that KQ flights are frequently delayed and preference is given to international connecting passengers, platinum frequent-flyer card holders, and first-class passengers.
A low-cost, no-frills airline Fly540 also flies from JKIA and offers scheduled connections to Mombasa, Malindi, Lamu, Kisumu and Masaai Mara. Plans are to extend the service to the East African region. A return flight to Mombasa from Nairobi will cost about $99 (without tax) Online booking is possible.
Another airline Airkenya flies from Wilson Airport Nairobi to Mombasa, Malindi, Lamu, Amboseli, Maasai Mara, Meru, Nanyuki and Samburu. The lounge features a Dormans cafe. Check in can be done up to 15 minutes before departure. Wilson Airport was once the busiest airport in Africa outside South Africa and still remains a major hub for local flights to the nature reserves in Kenya and to cities in neighboring countries. Anyone using Air Kenya is advised to lock their checked-in bags. Things have been known to go missing from luggage while in the care of Air Kenya.
The East African Safari Air also flies from Nairobi to Malindi, Kisumu and Lokichogio.
Most charter tourists fly directly to either of the coastal airports of Mombasa or Malindi.
Local buses in town are run by private companies, such as the green and yellow Citi Hoppa, which provide transportation for an inexpensive fee (usually around US$ 0.66). They have regular services in and out of the Nairobi city suburbs. They usually seat 20-35 passengers (no standing passengers allowed by law) and are a cleaner and less hectic mode of transport than matatus, while still plying many of the same routes.
Although most matatus ply their trade along set routes, it is often possible outside of major towns to charter a matatu on the spot as a taxi to your your desired destination. Make sure you have categorically confirmed your negotiated price and exact destination '''before''' the vehicle goes anywhere, or you may find yourself in the shadier areas of Nairobi at night at the mercy of an indignant matatu driver.
Matatus provide a very cheap and quick method of transport in all the major towns and many rural areas. The name matatu hails from the Kiswahili word for the number three ? ''tatu'' ? because some time ago the standard fare was three ten-cent coins.
Getting around in Kenya, especially for roads out of the city, is difficult. Though Kenya does have a lovely countryside,the roads are often in a dilapidated state due to neglect. Rent a heavy duty car/jeep to get you there. A good map is essential, and if you are self driving to game parks and the like a GPS would be very useful - sign posts are rare and you are never quite sure if you are on the correct road, leading to many wrong turnings and backtracking.
Central car hire [http://www.carhirekenya.com] are a reliable, trustworthy and helpful rental company based in Nairobi. Two-wheel drive and four-wheel drive vehicles are available and are well maintained.
The annual wildebeest migration (from Maasai Mara to the Serengeti) is an awesome sight and best experienced in a balloon safari. Bookings to watch the migration are best done months in advance due to the high demand and limited lodging available in the Mara. Migration is during August and September.
Kenya also is a great destination for beach holidays and has some of the world's most beautiful beaches, located along the coastal regions and the city of Mombasa.
Kenya is also becoming a preferred golf holiday destination, with an abundance of beautiful courses around the major urban areas. Green fees range from US$15 to US$40 per round, plus US$5-7 for caddy fee.
It is best to book a tour with a reliable operator to take care of all the details of your safari experience. This will allow you to see all the great wildlife that Kenya has to offer.
English is one of the two official languages and is spoken in the major cities as well as by those connected to the tourist industry. Outside of the large cities, Kiswahili (known in English as Swahili), is the other official language, and a few words of this language will go a long way.
There's also Sheng (a slang of English, Kiswahili and local languages), spoken mostly by urban youths.
Tribal languages, such as ''Maa'' spoken by the Maasai, are commonplace in more remote areas; however, you will usually be able to find a local who can speak Kiswahili ? although in such areas a guide will be indispensable.
Common Kiswahili Phrases:
''Jambo'' ? Hello. This is pidgin Kiswahili ? expect to be greeted with this if you look like a tourist. Kenyans never say ''Jambo'' to each other, although they may sometimes use the more grammatically pure "''Hujambo?''" to which the correct response is "''Sijambo.''"
''Habari gani?'' ? How are you? (lit. "Have you any news?")
''Mzuri sana'' ? Fine, thank you (lit. "[I am] very good"
''Tafadhali'' ? Please
''Asante sana'' ? Thank you very much
''Asante hapana'' - No thank you
''Wacha'' - Stop it!
''Karibu'' ? You're welcome / Welcome to ...
''Jina langu ni Nancy'' ? My name is Nancy
''Shilingi ngapi?'' ? How much does it cost? (lit. "How many shilling?")
''Kwa heri'' ? Goodbye
''Pole pole'' (pronounced pol-ay pol-ay) ? Slowly, slowly
''Hakuna matata'' ? No problem (lit. "There are no problems"
"Bob" is slang for shilling
Apart from the typical souvenirs such as wood carvings, it may be a good idea to buy one of the large books with photos of wildlife, nature, or culture.
Do listen to and buy some local Kenyan music. Reggae is also quite a frequent feature of matatu journeys.
Imported and local wines and spirits are widely available, and it is advisable to avoid local brews such as "changaa" and "busaa," which are illegal, unhygenically brewed and whose consumption has led to deaths on many occasions.
There is an excellent selection of soft drinks especially from the Coca Cola stable, but try the Tangawizi brand of ginger ale.
If you are in Nairobi, visit the Diamond Plaza in Highridge where you will get a range of freshly squeezed juices including tangerine, sugarcane and mango. In addition, most large malls in Nairobi and Mombasa have juice bars with a wide array of juices on offer.
Nairobi has a wide variety of tourist hotels, from backpackers' campsites (Upper Hill Campsite off Hospital Road) to five-star establishments such as the Norfolk Hotel.
Nairobi International Youth Hostel (on Ralph Bunche Rd) has dorm beds available for 600sh. The Nairobi YMCA has doubles with a shared bathroom for 1,100/; however, checking in after 9 pm is not allowed unless you have previous reservations. There are a number of guesthouses that offer private rooms both with shared bathrooms and self-contained rooms for between 1,000/- and 4,000/- per night. As long as you don't mind basic accommodations, there is no need to spend more than $100US per night on a hotel or hostel. In less touristy areas, lodging can be found for as cheap as $5USD per night. Be wary of bed bugs, though - it may be advisable to purchase insect spray and bring along your own sheet if you plan to travel very cheaply.
In addition, the international Intercontinental and Hilton chains are also represented as well as a number of very highly regarded local chains(Serena and Sarova Hotels). Small boarding and lodging establishments are ubiquitous in downtown urban areas for low cost, although these are rarely safe as they are located in high crime areas.
Homestays are increasingly gaining popularity. Part of the reason is that one is able to experience Kenyan culture in a deeper and more meaningful way. Most homes charge about $20 per night inclusive of meals. Some may include laundry on that price. [http://www.my-kenya-guide.com/kenya-hotels.html]
Apart from Nairobi, in Western Kenya there are nice hotels such as Kisumu's Imperial Hotel, Kisumu Hotel, etc., that offer a range of standards and costs of accommodation.
Villas are also a new type of accommodation gaining popularity in Kenya. The top Villa (Villa Annchen) is situated near Mombasa on the shore of Indian Ocean inlet Mtwapa Creek [http://www.kenyavilla.com Oceanfront Villa Annchen] affordable and in a class of its own. Other Villa(s) on Kenya Coast are mostly overexpensive or just simple holiday houses. Check out '''Laikipia Plateau''' which stretches from the slopes of snow-capped Mount Kenya in the Aberdare Mountain Range to the rim of the Great Rift Valley and the start of the Samburu tribal lands. '''The Sanctuary at Ol Lentille''' offers four luxury villas [http://www.kenyasafari-direct.com/laikipia-plateau/the-sanctuary-at-ol-lentille]. Laikipia boasts one of the largest elephant populations in East Africa with over three thousand elephants and is one of the last strongholds of the endangered Black Rhino. Despite its scattered mosaic of farms and cattle ranches, it is essentially still a wilderness, a wildlife refuge supporting huge numbers of game. The Plateau boasts game second only to the Masai Mara in its abundance. Laikipia also has guest houses and hotels.
renting: People staying longer-term may rent accommodation; prices range from estate-agent 'international style' rentals at $150+ pw, to privately arranged furnished apartments, from $50-$100 pw, to 'local' style accommodation, usually unfurnished, in a price range from ksh5-7000 per month with windows, water, electricity, down to ksh500 per month with no windows, no electricity, loud neighbours, mosquitoes, shared access to a tap. To arrange privately rented accommodation, you'll need to ask around - cab drivers, shopkeepers, market traders, could all save you the estate agents' fees.
There is a large number of international expatriates who work for non-profit agencies such as the U.N and other affiliated agencies. Their pay is very high in relation to local living standards, and as a result their employees can afford to live in luxury.
There are numerous opportunities for volunteering in Kenya, whatever skills you have. Websites such as Idealist carry details of many of these placements, which could be centered on education, conservation, community development, or a number of similar areas. Kenya's English-speaking history and relative stability (despite recent events following the disputed 2007 elections) make it extremely well suited for this kind of work. In most cases, volunteering can be undertaken with a standard tourist visa, although it is worth checking with your host organization before travelling as the authorities may not always take this view.
If you have specialised skills, there are a number of more focused volunteering programs available. These range from opportunities for medical and engineering placements (for example, with MSF or VSO), to short sabbaticals for people with generic business experience, spent mentoring local businesses, with Skills Venture.
Stay alert when walking or driving through Nairobi. You should be careful always to be aware of your surroundings and, if possible, ensure that you have a guide with you. Even daylight muggings on crowded streets are not uncommon. Violent and sometimes fatal criminal attacks, including armed carjackings and home invasions/burglaries, can occur at any time and in any location, particularly in Nairobi. Particularly avoid walking after dark. Take a taxi if you can afford it, or a bus if you can not.
Avoid ostentatious displays of wealth and property, particularly tempting objects such as cameras, mobile phones, laptops, MP3 players, etc. The bus from the airport to downtown is a notorious target for pickpockets
If you are unlucky and get mugged, a good tactic is to wave your arms and start screaming at the would-be mugger. Confrontations with armed robbers, however, should be avoided ? in this instance, remember that your possessions are far less important than your life. Most criminals in Nairobi are more interested in a quick grab and dash than they are in a prolonged encounter. Since robbery is frequently punished by lengthy prison terms or even death, most muggers can be dissuaded by a good show of force. It is perfectly possible to see much of Nairobi without incident if you take sensible precautions.
The north of the country has a reputation for lawlessness, becoming more dangerous the closer you get to the Sudanese, Ethiopian and Somali borders. Armed robberies and abductions by ''shiftas'' (bandits) on the roads in these areas are frequent. Avoid travelling to this part of the country if possible, and take special precautions if travelling by road. Armed convoys are normal for this part of the country. Visitors to Lake Turkana (indicated on the map as Lake Rudolf) in the northwest and Lamu in the northern end of the coast are advised to travel there by air. Lodwar, Lokichokio ('Loki') and Moyale are towns best avoided by the casual traveller, unless you have business with the humanitarian organisations based there.
Protect yourself from mosquitoes, as they carry numerous diseases such as dengue fever, malaria and yellow fever. Get expert advice on malaria preventatives. Guard against mosquito bites. Wear long sleeves and long trousers and apply an effective insect repellent, for example, one containing DEET. If travelling to other East African countries, you should have a yellow fever vaccination so as to prevent complications and paying of bribes at the border. These can be administered at an affordable price at most reliable Nairobi clinics and hospitals.
Malaria prophylactics can be highly effective. Consult your physician.
If you get flu-like symptoms, including fever, consult a doctor immediately. If no doctor is available, take a treatment dose of an appropriate anti-malarial and go immediately to a hospital. While the public hospitals are slightly cheaper, long waits and poor conditions and care at these facilities may make it worthwhile to go to a private clinic. Costs will vary, but a typical trip to the hospital for malaria testing, doctor's consultation, and medication will cost between $12 to $30USD depending on the clinic. As malaria can become serious, a trip to the hospital is recommended at the first symptoms of malaria.
If you get such symptoms within twelve months of returning home, seek a doctor's advice very quickly and immediately tell him where you have been in the last year. Delayed treatment, even by just a few hours, can lead to permanent brain and liver damage or death.
Do not have unprotected sex as '''HIV/AIDS''' and other sexually transmitted diseases are a risk. The country's Adult HIV Prevalence rate (15th in the world) is over '''6%''' or '''1 in 16''' adults. Voluntary Testing and Counseling (VCT) clinics offer free testing and counseling for HIV/AIDS.
Cholera is another danger. When in affected areas, see a doctor immediately and drink plenty of water.
All water should be treated, either by boiling or through purifying tablets or filters. This includes Nairobi as well as rural areas. Typhoid fever is a risk and, like malaria prophylactics, the vaccination is not 100% effective. All fruits and vegetables should be thoroughly washed. While eating from the roadside kiosks is part of the cultural experience that one should not miss, note that such places do not always have the highest sanitary conditions and stomach illnesses can result.
It is advisable to have traveller's and accident insurance.
Although Kenya is predominantly Christian and somewhat liberal, there are areas with major Muslim influence, such at the Coastal regions, where it is considered indecent to wear short dresses. This is true in rural Christian areas as well.
Beachwear is acceptable on the beach but not while strolling around town. Even though some hotels allow topless or nude sunbathing, these are in restricted areas and not in public areas.
Kissing or heavy petting is frowned upon in public, even though Kenyan youth engage in both liberally in night clubs.
Homosexuality is against the law but is practiced secretly. Any overt displays of homosexuality may, at times, result in open hostility. It is best to be discreet if engaging in any such activities with travel mates or locals. However, it is customary to hold a same sex person's hand while engaged in conversation.
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