'''Ton Sai''' is a beach near Krabi in Thailand, offering a combination of inexpensive accommodation and great rock climbing routes that make it popular with both backpackers and climbers alike. Compared to neighbouring '''Rai Leh''' and '''Ao Nang''' it's relatively rough around on the edges; in particular, the beach is unsuitable for swimming and becomes quite rocky as the tide goes out.

Get in

There's no overland access to Ton Sai, so all visitors arrive by boat. Rai Leh is a two minute long-tail ride or a 10-15 minute walk away, while long-tails from Ao Nang to Rai Leh will also stop at Ton Sai on demand. Boats between Ton Sai and Rai Leh generally don't run at night. If you're arriving from Krabi (which most people are) its usually quicker and easier to get a taxi or songthaew to Ao Nang and then a share or charter a boat from there to Ton Sai. Boats do run directly from Krabi to Ton Sai, but they run infrequently, the touts can be pushy and usually they take you to Rai Leh beach, so you end up walking from there to get to Ton Sai.

There are three ways to reach Rai Leh on foot:

1) At low tide it's possible to walk around the rocky outcrop which separates Ton Sai from Rai Leh (10 minutes).

2) At high tide, most opt for the steep path which climbs up and over the rocky outcrop, which is densely covered with foliage (10 minutes).

3) The least used option is a longer trail which starts on the northern, forested, edge of Ton Sai and meanders past bungalows, thick jungle, and eventually to the back of Rai Leh, near the Diamond Cave area (20 minutes). This trail is smoother and easier to walk than the shorter one.

None of these options are possible at night without a flashlight/torch, and the jungle paths can be slippery and treacherous after the rain.

Get around

The only way to get around Ton Sai is on foot. The beach and the main road act as the primary through fares for the area. It may take five minutes or less to cover the entire area. During heavy rains, the dirt road becomes muddy and treacherous.

See

Ton Sai is more of an activity kind of place, rather than sights. It is worth visiting the Phra Nang shrine on Phra Nang beach, which is either a 30 min walk away or a 20 min kayak. Thai women come here in the hope of increasing their fertility, and the shrine is adorned with wooden penises. Quite a sight!

Do

'''Rock climbing''' is the primary draw for visitors, with Ton Sai offering as many routes as Rai Leh, and hosting a number of climbing schools and guiding companies, including:

  • '''PhraNang Adventures''' [http://www.adventuresinthailand.com/] specializes in all inclusive custom packages. Offers camp and climb on Ko Lao Liang.
  • '''Wee's Rock Climbing School''' [http://www.geocities.com/wee_rocks/] offers a variety of courses and has a gear shop. Course prices range from 800 baht for intro courses to 8000 baht for five day advanced courses. Also organises Deep Water soloing trips.
  • If you want to climb independently its easy to either rent gear from one of the shops, or bring your own. Shops usually give you a package of a guidebook, 14 quickdraws, a 60 m rope, 2 harnesses, 2 chalk bags and 2 pairs of shoes. This usually costs around 800 Bhat. Its also very easy to meet people if you're looking for a partner, so don't be afraid to just turn up alone but do be careful about who you climb with.
  • Almost all the routes are sport climbs on limestone rock, and are usually well protected. However, because of the close proximity to the sea the bolts tend to rust, so its worth sticking to new or rebolted routes. There are some climbs that are entirely protected by slings and sometimes these are worn through, so bring some extra slings or buy some there. You can also buy an excellent guidebook for the whole of Thailand at any of the climbing shops. It has dates and safety ratings for each climb, which is very useful.
  • The climbing is often athletic and overhanging. The rock quality varies depending on the crag, but its usually excellent and the rock formations are very impressive - lots of staligtites. There are some fantastic multi pitches, and you are rewarded with brilliant views from the top. Some of these can be climbed with one 60 m rope, some of them need two. Some of the hardest climbs are concentrated along the beach, which also makes a great bouldering spot because the sand is soft to fall on. There is also a good bouldering cave that stays nice and dry if it rains.
  • The best time to climb is probably during the winter months when its cooler, but it can get crowded, especially at Christmas time. The rest of the year its either very hot or raining, and many places shut down in low season. However there are often windows of beautiful weather during the monsoon and the rock usually drys quickly.
  • '''Playing with fire''' -- Ton Sai could well be the world centre for fire tricks: light something on fire, twirl it in the air, that's the basic idea. A lot of climbers can be found on the beach during their rest days practicing on the beach.

    '''SCUBA Diving'''

  • '''Scuba Talent DIve Center''', tel: +66 84 627 5227, [http://www.scuba-talent.com]. The only one dive center at Tonsai Beach will guide you to the underwater world.
  • Share or charter a boat to nearby islands. '''Chicken Island''' is good for snorkeling.

    '''Rent kayaks''' from one of the bungalow operations along the beach and paddle around to Railay or the beautiful Phra Nang beach.

    '''Look out cave''' Next to the Freedom Bar, there is a bamboo ladder that climbs to a lookout point of the bay. Although the ladder is fairly safe, be cautious especially after the sun goes down.

    Buy

    There are very few shops in Ton Sai, and they are pricey (for Thai standards) as everything is brought in by boat. It's probably best to bring everything with you or make a trip to Krabi, which is a much larger town with better choice. However there are a few mini marts selling cold drinks, snacks, phone credit and some tacky clothes, similar to the ones at Rai Leh.

    Eat

    There are several restaurants and bars on the beach and most bungalow operators have restaurants as well. Beware that many operations in Ton Sai are not electrified throughout the day meaning that unless they are careful with food storage you'll end up with a nasty case of food poisoning. Normally there is electricity from 6:00pm-6:00am during low and mid season. During high season there is electricity for most of the businesses.

    The street vendors also make fantastic authentic Thai food. Try the mango with sticky rice or Som Tum (papaya salad). Cheap too!!

    Drink

    There are several bars on the beach, several of which (oddly enough) feature non-stop reggae music. You can even chill out with a "special" coffee or tea. A popular climber's hang out is Ton Sai Roof, at the east end of the beach, where the routes begin at the foot of Freedom bar, another hot spot with glorious views of both the rock and the whole bay.

    Sleep

    All accommodation is set off of the beach and tends to be of the bamboo bungalow variety, and a little more rustic (and certainly more affordable though prices have more than tripled over the past five years) than at Rai Leh. Rubbish piles and noisy generators are common nuisances but as TonSai has no mains electricity it is a necessary nuisance.* '''Andaman Nature Resort''' - set well off the beach near the base of the cliffs, the basic bamboo bungalows are popular with budget travelers. The Andaman is largest collection of bungalows in Ton Sai. Rates are around 800 baht during the high season for a basic room with private bathroom. 100-150 baht during low season.*

    '''Country Side Resort''' - set back behind the beach (follow the path up the hill from the internet cafe, and take the right-hand fork by Wee's Climbing School - follow the signs), this set of 10 bungalows or so are lovely, well-kept and have views. Each is built on stilts, with its own deck, clean tiled bathroom, single or double beds, many windows and a wall of three glass doors opening onto the porch. During low season it is the best deal on Ton Sai at 250- baht. During high season the rate may rise to 7-850 baht. Aircon rooms are also available at 1200 baht in high season. Plenty of helpful advice and smiles. The downside, as elsewhere, is ongoing construction across the street - not a big intrusion since most days are spent at the beach, on the water or on the side of a mountain. Countryside has recently been taken over (2008) by a new owner, as the old one had left TonSai, and is meant to be investing some heavy money into the place to improve things further including wireless Internet for guests, new and improved restaurant and a funky new bar. The path to Railay East over the back of TonSai (past CountrySide) is also being improved for guest access.

    Contacting some of the bungalow operators for reservations can be difficult, although Country Side now has it's own website [http://www.countryside-krabi.com]. You can email them '''info@countryside-krabi.com''' for resrvations and information. Some of the climbing schools including Wee's (he updates the price list for the bungalows each year as well) [http://www.geocities.com/wee_rocks/room.html] will book reservations for a flat fee.

    Get out

  • Ao Nang
  • Rai Leh
  • Krabi
  • Ko Lanta
  • Ko Phi Phi
  • Phuket