57th St Books. 301 E 57th St. 1 773 684-1300. iftysev@semcoop.com. 1 773 984-2804. -F 10AM-9PM, Sa-Su 10AM-8PM. ttp://www.semcoop.com. A branch of the University's Seminary Co-op that has frequent literary events, including poetry readings, author talks, and writing workshops.
Artisans 21 gallery. 225 S Harper St. 1 773 288-7450. -F noon-6PM, Sa 10AM-6PM, Su noon-5PM. A gallery cooperative selling everything from ceramics to paintings to jewelry.
Dr Wax. 225 S Harper Ave. 1 773 439-8696. -Sa 11AM-7PM, Su noon-6PM. ttp://www.drwax.com. Used records and new and used CDs. All sorts of music.
Hyde Park Records. 377 E 53rd St. 1 773 288-6588. ttp://www.hydeparkrecords.net. -Th 11AM-7PM, F-Sa 11AM-8PM, Su noon-6PM. A huge selection of vinyl and a smaller selection of CDs.
O'Gara and Wilson, Ltd. 448 E 57th St. 1 773 363-0993. ttp://ogarawilsonbooksellers.blogspot.com/. -F 11AM-7PM, Sa 11AM-8PM, Su noon-6PM. 1-2,000. garawilson37@sbcglobal.net. An impressively atmospheric antiquarian bookseller that has been open at this location for '''120 years''', with a wide selection acquired mostly from Hyde Park estate sales, students, and professors. The staff is incredibly knowledgeable.
Powell's Books. 501 E 57th St. 1 773 955-7780. AM-11PM daily. ttp://www.powellschicago.com. Used books overflowing the shelves, all over the place.
Seminary Co-op Bookstore. 757 S University Ave. 1 773 752-4381. rders@semcoop.com. 1 773 752-8507. -F 8:30AM-9PM, Sa 10AM-6PM, Su noon-6PM. ttp://www.semcoop.com. The world's largest academic bookstore has a collection covering ''every'' topic.
Eat
The center of dining in the Hyde Park area is along 53rd St and Harper Ct, although the University crowd packs itself into the nearer dining strip along 57th St. Accordingly, there is a significant difference in both atmosphere and price between the two dining centers (the latter being collegiate and overpriced). You can have a fine meal in Hyde Park in any price category, but there are no truly great, standout restaurants in this neighborhood, which suffers from having a captive audience — it is quite difficult to get to any other dining hot spots in the city without a car (the nearest being Chinatown or soul food in Chatham).
Budget
The odd "Thai Row" on 55th St deserves a mention. These are definitely not the best Thai restaurants in Chicago, but they serve tasty, greasy food in large portions on the cheap. No one seems to know why these Thai restaurants congregated in this one spot.
Daley's Restaurant. 09 E 63rd St. 1 773 643-6670. ttp://daleysrestaurant.com/. AM-9PM daily. 4-12. Huh? Daley worship in Woodlawn? No, that couldn't be and it isn't. Built by one ''John'' Daley, Chicago's oldest eatery has served as Woodlawn's neighborhood restaurant for about '''120 years!''' As the Irish fled to the suburbs, the menu shifted towards offering nothing but the soulest soul food around (the breakfast is a particular draw — wonderful french toast). Owing to the housing projects just north, the area around this Green Line stop is on the rough side, but Daley's will treat you to a strong dose of delicious food and friendly service with nice atmosphere.
Harold's Chicken Shack. 2-5. The great South Side fried chicken chain is cheap, usually a little dirty, and always delicious. Crowded at meal times.
:* <eat name="" alt="" address="1208 E 53rd St" directions="" phone="+1 773 725-9260" email="" fax="" hours="10AM-11:30PM daily" price="" url="">The Hyde Park location is easy to visit, with a parking lot and rare dine-in seating, although the quality vacillates.</eat>
:* <eat name="" alt="" address="6419 S Cottage Grove Ave" directions="" phone="+1 773 363-9586" email="info@haroldschickenshack2.com" fax="" hours="Su?W 11AM-midnight, Th 11AM?3AM, F-Sa 11AM?4AM" price="" url="http://www.haroldschickenshack2.com/">Another hit-or-miss unreliable Harold's location, just under the Green Line stop, in a considerably less welcoming environment than the Hyde Park location!</eat>
Istria Cafe. 520 E 57th St. 1 773 955-2556. -F 6:30AM-7PM, Sa 7AM-7PM, Su 8AM-6PM. 3-5. Premium coffee and an assortment of pricey, but well prepared panini, pastries, and gelato served right under the Metra stop.
Original Pancake House. 517 E Hyde Park Blvd. 1 773 288-2322. -F 7AM-3PM Sa-Su 7AM-5PM. 5-10. Often called the best pancake house in Chicago, vindicated by the ostentatiously long line on weekends. An exhaustive pancake menu and delightful service. As you would expect, though, it is extremely crowded, and on weekends you will be packed in with strangers like sardines.
Rajun Cajun. 459 E 53rd St. 1 773 955-1145. -Sa 11AM-9:30PM. 5-10. A hole-in-the-wall that, interestingly enough, serves a combination of Indian and soul food. Probably the only place around where you can sip a mango lassi while eating collard greens and fried chicken. While the seating area is a little neglected, the atmosphere benefits from the waiting-in-line dancing to the Hindi club/rock music.
Ribs 'N' Bibs. 300 S Dorchester. 1 773 493-0400. u-Th 11AM-midnight, F-Sa 11AM-1AM (sometimes closes early without warning). 2-20. ttp://www.hydeparkrecords.net/ribs&bibs.htm. A true Hyde Park institution serving BBQ sauce over everything, from the $2 Bronco Burger to more expensive rib plates. Food is smoked in a traditional wood-burning stove, which gives the neighborhood its salivatory smell. The BBQ here is actually pretty mediocre (at best), and there is far better cue to be had in Bronzeville and Chatham, but this one is awful convenient. Limited seating.
Siam Thai Restaurant. 639 E 55th St. 1 773 324-9296. 1AM-10PM daily. 5-12. Choose this one over the others if you are in the mood for pad thai.
Snail Thai Cuisine. 649 E 55th St. 1 773 667-5423. 1AM-10PM daily. 5-12. Weird name, but this is the most popular and brightly lit of the three Thai places on Thai row.
Thai 55th. 607 E 55th St. 1 773 363-7119. ttp://www.thai55restaurant.com/. 1AM-10PM daily. 5-12. Probably the least popular of the three Thai row locations, but the best bet for pad see ew and bubble tea.
Valois. 518 E 53rd St. 1 773 667-0647. :30AM-10PM daily. 5-8. Cash only diner/cafeteria institution for about 80 years that serves as the heart of the Hyde Park community — a favorite with lifelong Hyde Parkers, bleary eyed graduate students, police officers, tweed-jacket sporting professors, and a certain U.S. President. Breakfast served until 4PM.
Mid-range
Caffe Florian. 450 E 57th St. 1 773 752-4100. u-Th 11AM-11PM, F-Sa 11AM-midnight. 5-8. An Italian cafe popular with the students. Most of the menu at the Florian is uninspired, but their deep-dish pizza is a true neighborhood favorite.
Calypso Cafe. 211 S Harper Ave. 1 773 955-0229. 1 773 955-3500. u-Th 11AM-10PM, F-Sa 11AM-11PM. 10-15. ttp://www.thecalypsocafe.com. All sorts of Caribbean food in what is widely considered Hyde Park's best restaurant. Has a full bar.
Edwardo's Natural Pizza Restaurant. 321 E 57th St. 1 773 241-7960. -Th 11AM-10PM, F-Sa 11AM-11PM, Su 11AM-10PM. 8-15. Come here specifically for its famous stuffed spinach pizza and you won't regret it — well, you may regret the weight-gaining aftermath, but you won't regret the immediate experience.
Giordano's. 309 S Blackstone Ave. 1 773 947-0200. u-Th 11AM-11PM, F-Sa 11AM-midnight. 10-23. ttp://www.giordanos.com. Not all Giordano's are created equal, but this is the original location and one of the better places in the city to try Chicago stuffed pizza. If some in your party are afraid to face the behemoth, there are plenty of non-pizza options on the menu.
Kikuya. 601 E 55th St. 1 773 667-3727. -Sa noon-10PM, Su 4:30PM-9PM. 10-15. ttp://kikuyaonline.com. Hyde Park's one Japanese restaurant serves tempura, sushi, sashimi. It may be the ''only'' Japanese food on the South Side.
Medici. 327 E 57th St. 1 773 667-7394. -Th 11AM-11PM, F 11AM-12PM, Sa 9AM-12PM, Su 9AM-11PM. 8-18. An Italian place ''very'' popular with the students, that can lay claim to above average baked goods, fine thin-crust pizza, Italian dishes, and a fun ambiance in their downstairs seating area (a separate door to the west of the street-level bakery). Also serves excellent floats with flavors like almond and grenadine. If you ask the admissions office to recommend a nice place nearby to take your kid, they'll point you in this direction.
Pizza Capri. 501 E 53rd St. 1 773 324-7777. -F 10AM-11:30PM, Sa-Su 9AM-midnight. 11-20. Good upscale Italian cuisine and stuffed pizza at a reliable Chicagoland chain. Try the gourmet ingredients like feta cheese and fine sausage on a stuffed pizza for a deliciously fattening night. ''Great'' bread.
Salonika. 440 E 57th St. 1 773 752-3899. AM-10PM daily. 7-14. Adequate, but overpriced, diner fare with some Greek and Mexican entries, and a constant flow of coffee. The nice atmosphere and comfy booths are the real reason to come and lounge about.
Splurge
Cedar's Mediterranean Kitchen. 206 E 53rd St. 1 773 324-6227. ttp://eatcedars.com/. u-Th 11:30AM-10PM, F-Sa 11:30AM-11PM. 13-19. Cedar's is the most stylish choice of restaurants in Hyde Park, and the Lebanese cuisine should not disappoint.
La Petite Folie. 504 E 55th St. 1 773 493-1394. 1 773 493-1450. unch: T-F 11:30AM-2PM, dinners: T-Su 5PM. 15-25. ttp://lapetitefolie.com/. A very good, unpretentious French restaurant on the south end of the Lake Shore shopping center. The U of C alumnae who own the place apparently tired of scientific research and moved to France for a while to graduate with honors from the prestigious Cordon Bleu Paris school of gastronomy. And Hyde Park rejoices. Prix fixe menu available daily 5PM-6:30PM.
Park 52. 201 S Harper Ave. n the same building as the New Checkerboard Lounge. 1 773 241-5200. ttp://www.park52chicago.com/. u-Th 5PM-10PM, F-Sa 5PM-11PM. 22-40. Jerry Kleiner's new restaurant, distinguishing itself by being the only truly upmarket fine dining in the neighborhood. New American cuisine, fancy offbeat decor, and right next to the Checkerboard Lounge. Reservations recommended.
Drink
One of the University's many powerful Hyde Park legacies is the general lack of nightclubs and bars, which once covered the now desolate stretch of 55th St west of the Metra tracks. Ask any student, Jimmy's (a.k.a. Woodlawn Tap) is really ''the'' place to go for a beer. And fortunately, the current University president happens to be a jazz pianist; one of his more notable neighborhood ventures was to get the Checkerboard Lounge reopened in a new location in the Harper Court strip.
BackStory Cafe. 100 S Blackstone. 1 773 324-9987. ackstory@TheExperimentalStation.com. ttp://backstorycafe.com. AM-8PM daily. ood: $3-6. Chicago's most hidden gem is nearly impossible to find, but may be Chicago's finest cafe. Run by Woodlawn's artsy/social-cause-chasing Experimentation Station, this extraordinarily laid-back cafe serves incredible fresh coffee (details like the measurement of coffee beans really pay off) and whole pots (for 2-4 people) of quality loose leaf teas for just $4.50. And they have free WiFi. And they screen free indie films/documentaries on Sunday nights. And open mic on Friday nights. To find the place, which is located in an odd industrial/construction zone, with minimal signage, head south from the Midway on Dorchester to take a left on 61st St. It's just around the corner at the dead end on what barely passes for a street. Lastly, don't worry about the location, the streets around the cafe are perfectly safe.
Bar Louie. 550 S South Shore Dr. 1 773 363-5300. ttp://www.barlouieamerica.com/hydepark.html. 1AM-2AM daily. A chain bar & grill, with unexciting food, and very slow service, but... stiff mojitos, outdoor seating, and location right by the beach makes for a great time in the summer. That the clientele is very diverse is another plus.
CHANT. 509 East 53rd St. 73-324-1999. nfo@CHANTchicago.com. 73-324-9994. ttp://www.chantchicago.com/. u-M noon-10PM, Tu-Th 11:30AM-midnight, F-Sa 11:30AM-1AM. CHANT is a restaurant and bar, but skip the food and go straight to the bar. (The food is fine, but the service is not.) The decor is extraordinarily chic for Hyde Park, and there's live entertainment (often jazz) F-Sa starting at 9:30PM.
Cove Lounge. he Cove. 750 E 55th St . 1 773 684-1013. u-Th 10:30AM-2AM, F 11AM-2AM, Sa 11AM-3AM. A loud, upbeat dive bar that's way more eclectic than whatever bars you've been to in the past. Its got a weird 70's nautical theme, interesting music on the jukebox, and cheap drinks. Unfortunately, it's also a tiny space and can get overcrowded.
Falcon Inn. 601 E 53rd St. -F 10:30AM-2AM, Sa 11AM-3AM, Su noon-2AM. The sleeper dive bar in Hyde Park, largely unknown to the student crowd. It's tucked away on a quiet section of 53rd Street, and serves an eclectic crowd of friendly locals, who come to relax, enjoy the very cheap beer, and the pizza through the window to Cholie's next door. (Cholie's pizza is a Chicago travesty, but hey, you're drinking $1.50 beer.)
New Checkerboard Lounge. 201 S Harper Ct. 1 773 684-1472. 1AM-2AM daily, live music usually starts after 9:30PM. over $3-20. A new location for the newly reopened legendary jazz and blues club. Serves an eclectic crowd. Nightly blues is the staple, with jazz on Sundays.
Seven Ten Lanes. 055 E 55th St. 1 773 347-2695. 1 773 472-1978. -Th 11:30AM-1AM, F-Sa 11:30AM-2AM, Su 11:30AM-midnight. Beer, bowling, shuffleboard, and an art deco ambiance. Its proximity to the University allows it to be overpriced, but it's the only place around to satisfy bowling urges, or to have a good beer outside. They also happen to have some very good foreign beers on tap.
Woodlawn Tap. immy's. 172 E 55th St. 1 773 643-5516. u-F 10:30AM-2AM, Sa 10:30AM-3AM. over $3-20. From the University perspective, this is the one and only real bar in Hyde Park (and accordingly, the only establishment that was saved from the University-driven "urban removal"). A good place to be served beer by PhDs and to listen in on the intense intellectual debates about topics you didn't know existed. Some famous writers used to frequent the bar, including Saul Bellow and Dylan Thomas. Live jazz on Sunday nights and you might catch a University improv comedy group during the week. But above all, the dark cavernous atmosphere, the low-key vibe, and the greasy burgers make this one of the best dives in the city. While it's a university favorite, ''don't'' expect a rowdy singles scene here—it's the U of C, folks.
Sleep
Considering the hordes of university-affiliated visitors Hyde Park is oddly devoid of hotels. Most visitors stay downtown; the Loop along Michigan Avenue is the best bet, since the southbound Metra stops are just outside the hotels. There are some nice quiet options, though, if you know where to look.
Abode. 412 S Blackstone Ave. 1 773 955-4561. tb.abode@gmail.com. 1 773 439-6901. PM. oon. 150/night. ttp://web.mac.com/ltb.llc/iWeb/ABODE/. Short term apartment rentals located near Hyde Park's "downtown" area. 15-20 minute walk to the University. Kitchens fully stocked.
Hyde Park Arms Hotel. 316 S Harper Ave. 1 773 493-3500. er week $145-$155. If Kerouac and the Blues Brothers have interested you in checking into a transient hotel, the Hyde Park Arms is the place for you, as it is far cleaner and safer than its peers elsewhere. Hotel rooms leased weekly, bi-weekly, or monthly. The 70 rooms include standard hotel furnishings and a fridge, but no stove or microwave; all utilities are paid by the building, unless you want cable.
International House. 414 E 59th St. 1 773 753-2270. ttp://ihouse.uchicago.edu/residency/residency_short.shtml. 1 773 753-1227. PM. oon. -house-housing@uchicago.edu. 60-128. A student dormitory, which provides budget short-term accommodations to those "affiliated with either the University of Chicago or another cultural, educational or professional institution" (and their guests). They do their reservations (and information requests) by email. The rooms are mostly dorm rooms, but there are a couple nicer ones with private baths available (at significantly higher rates). Discounted weekly rates ares also available.
Ramada Lakeshore Chicago. 900 S Lakeshore Dr. 1 773 288-5800. 1 773 288-5819. oon. PM. 125-140. ttp://www.ramada-chicago.com/. This is the only major hotel in the area. It is unfortunately far from anything in the area of interest, but its rates are low and it has plenty of free parking and a downtown shuttle.
University Quarters B&B. 137 S Kimbark Ave. 1 773 855-8349. eservations@universityquarters.net. 1 773 409-5434. 150-165. ttp://www.universityquarters.net. Comfy and close to the University, albeit awkwardly south of the Midway. Rest assured the owners will take good care of you.
Wooded Isle Suites. 750 S Stony Island Ave. 1 800 290-6844 . ttp://woodedisle.com. 180-217 (can go as low as $60 off-season). eserve@woodedisle.com. 1 773 288-8972. A pretty fantastic option for staying in Hyde Park, the Wooded Isle suites are right next to the Museum of Science and Industry, Jackson Park, the 57th St Metra station, and the 57th St dining strip. All rooms include a fully equipped kitchen and housekeeping service every other day. It's a bit of a walk to the University (0.8 miles), but make your student come visit you ''here'' — it's also just a couple blocks from the beach.
Contact
The following public libraries offer free public internet access:
<listing name="Blackstone Branch Library" alt="" directions="" address="4904 S Lake Park Ave" phone="+1 312 747-0511" email="" fax="+1 312 747-5821" hours="M-Th 9AM-9PM, F-Sa 9AM-5PM" price="" url="">This particular library is not just a free internet joint, it's a beautiful work of art, filled with marble and murals. It was created as a charitable work by Timothy Blackstone, a 19th century railroad baron who also founded the Union Stockyards on the Southwest Side.</listing>
<listing name="Bessie Coleman Branch Library" alt="" directions="" address="731 E 63rd St" phone="+1 312 747-7760" email="" fax="+1 312 747-7768" hours="M-Th 9AM-8PM, F-Sa 9AM-5PM" price="" url=""></listing>
Stay safe
Many University students seem to live in fear of their neighborhood, and the University takes pains to explain to visitors that it is not unsafe, and that they have appropriate security measures to keep their students safe. Nonetheless, the fear persists. Know that this is '''wholly irrational'''. Hyde Park and to a somewhat lesser degree Kenwood are some of the safest inner neighborhoods in Chicago, with ''very'' low violent crime rates. Moreover, the University famously fields the third largest police force in Illinois, and the second largest private police force in the world (the first being the Pope's), with full police powers. That means there are twice as many police in Hyde Park than any other neighborhood around. Feel safe walking down the street at night, because you are. The only places you should actively worry about crime are in Woodlawn (south of 61st St), where there is a good deal of violent and drug-related crime, which categorically does not spill over across the Midway.
Get out
The famous '''Museum Campus''' and McCormick Center are just to the north of Oakland in Chicago's Near South.
Chicago's Bronzeville, the historic '''Black Metropolis''', is just a stone's throw away from Hyde Park, and well worth a visit for its huge role in African-American history. In particular the '''DuSable Museum of African-American History''' (which is just across the street from the University of Chicago Hospital) is very easy to visit when in the University area and should not be missed.
'''Oak Woods Cemetery''', outstanding Memphis-style '''barbecue''', and some of the best '''blues''' in the city are located a few miles south on Cottage Grove in Chatham and Greater Grand.
If you are up for a little drive, head south to the historic planned industrial community of Pullman, on the Far Southeast Side, and afterward grab some incredible smoked shrimp at the 95th St bridge.