Present day Dar es Salaam's origins have been influenced by myriad of Sultans, the Germans and the British. The city started as a fishing village in the mid 19th century, is now Tanzania's largest city, and has become one of East Africa_fs most important ports and trading centers.
With its great atmosphere, mix of African, Muslim, and South Asian influences, picturesque harbour, beaches, chaotic markets, and historical buildings, it is well worth extending your stay beyond the time between flights.
Dar es Salaam is Tanzania's financial and political hub despite having lost its status as official capital to Dodoma in 1973.
Dar es Salaam is certainly not at the top of the list of places to see for most visitors to Tanzania. It's often a necessary stop on their way to Zanzibar, the northern safari circuit or home. That being said, Dar has its charm. Walks around the city center are a great way to get a feel for the culture and Kariakoo market can be an interesting place for the more adventurous. It can also be a good base for visiting some of the nearby sites such as Bagamoyo, Bongoyo and Mbudja Islands, as well as learn to scuba dive or go deep sea fishing. For those looking for something more humanitarian, most international organizations are based in Dar and may be a good starting point if you wish to volunteer.
Most visitors to Dar arrive via Julius K. Nyerere International Airport, about 10 km west of the city center. Dar is flat and is bordered on the east by the Indian Ocean.
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Between December and February, in the dry season, temperatures can rise to the mid-30s (__C); due to the high humidity, discomfort can be very high. You should seek shelter from the sun during the midday heat and use copious amounts of sunblock.
Best times to visit are: June-Sept, after the rainy season, with milder temperatures and lower relative humidity.
North Americans and Europeans can obtain tourist visas upon landing in Dar es Salaam at a cost of US$50 (US$100 for US passport holders) paid in US dollars. However, some may prefer to get a visa before arriving. A visa can be obtained from the Tanzanian High Commission/Embassy. Fees are US$50 and you will need a passport sized photograph. Normally ready same day.
If you want or need a business visa, you will have to go to the Immigration Headquarter within 5 working days and pay another US$100. You will also need no less than four passport sized photos. If the secretary at your company offers to take care of the procedure, do not forget to ask about the status. They might forget to tell you if something is missing.
At the airport, stand in the visa line, which is on the right hand side of the queue for passport control. It can get a bit hectic because several international flights arrive almost simultaneously, so ask others where the queue starts. Once you've received your visa, there's no need to stop at passport control; they issue the visa and stamp you in at the same time, so just walk through to the baggage claim area.
The airport is 10 km from the city center and 20 km from the Msasani Peninsula. Most large hotels offer a pick-up and drop-off service upon request. A taxi from the airport to the city center should cost between 10,000TSh and 20,000TSh, but many will ask for as much as US$40. Prices will be higher at night. If you can't get a decent price, walk to the main road and flag a taxi, it may be cheaper. Do not do this at night. As of June 2008, petrol is about US$1.50/liter and climbing, this in a country where people earn less than $1 a day. Fares may rise quickly. Daladalas are also available if you walk out the the main road. Look for those marked '''POSTA''', which is the main Post Office in the city center. Hitchhiking is uncommon and most drivers will expect some form of payment from foreigners.
Dar es Salaam is served '''Internationally''' from:
Europe by:
Middle East and Asia by:
Africa by
And '''Domestically''' by:
These airlines provide almost daily service to and from Dar es Salaam to all major cities including Arusha, Mwanza, Mbeya, Zanzibar, Kilimanjaro and most national parks.
'''Warning:''' Domestic flights are often late but generally reliable.
'''Buying Tickets:''' When purchasing tickets for domestic flights with a credit card, travel agents will add-on a fee ranging anywhere from 3-6% of the ticket price. To avoid the fee, pay for your tickets in cash. There are no additional fees when purchasing tickets for international destinations.
'''Tazara''' runs a much nicer, though not much more on-time train to the south, which goes through part of the Selous Game Reserve, through Mbeya, and down to Kapiri Mposhi in Zambia (about 2 to 3 hours from Lusaka). Tazara has a large train station just out on the edge of town. Visas for Zambia are available on the train. This is a nice but slow way to travel, as it takes about 2 days.
'''Scandinavia Express''' [http://www.scandinaviagroup.com/Scandinavia%20Express/index.htm] used to be quite reliable but has fallen on hard times of late. However, they do travel on a schedule (when in good order) and provide a comfortable ride: some of the buses have air conditioning, and many are 4 seats across instead of the usual 5. Scandinavia run their own bus station in Dar Es Salaam, and tickets should be purchased ahead of time. Note that their cityterminal is far closer to town than central bus station. You can save a few dollars in taxi fares going to hotels in city centre, like those of Libya street area, by using Scandinavian.
If you're traveling to Arusha, '''Royal Coach''' is perhaps an even better option. The buses are very nice, have a/c (when working), a bathroom, and travel at 80kph for safety. The Royal Coach ticket office is located downtown near the Jambo Inn and Econolodge: buses leave from here early in the morning as well, although they then wait at the main bus stand for at least an hour.
All other buses leave from Dar Es Salaam's central bus station in '''Ubungo''', just west of the city (TSh5,000 taxi ride from downtown [or more, depending on your negotiation skills]). Here you can find buses to the majority of other cities. Although there are many touts outside of Ubungo's ticket area, they are mostly harmless. If you are put off by them, ask the taxi to take you inside the station for a small extra fee. The ticket offices are located just outside the station, though you can buy the tickets from the bus if you have entered already. This might be a better idea regardless, as you cannot tell the state of the bus from outside, nor how full the bus is (buses will only leave when completely full).
'''Warning:''' Some of the cheaper lines run buses which are remarkably dilapidated, uncomfortable, will take a very long time to fill up, and will likely have to stop more often on the way, assuming they make it at all. Bus travel by night is not allowed, so most buses except for those to nearby cities will leave early in the morning.
The nearest dala-dala stand is also called "Ubungo", just down the road: Leaving the bus stand, head right on Morogoro Road, going away from the city; cross Sam Njoma Road, and it will be on the left. Dala-dalas to downtown will be marked "Posta"; people are typically happy to point them out to you if you ask.
Taxi prices from Ubungo are highest inside the stand, where there is a fairly strong cartel (similar to the airport). However there are always taxis outside the stand as well, with whom better prices can be negotiated. If you make a deal with a tout, and not directly with the driver (sitting in the car) the price will include a commission for the tout. Your negotiating position will be affected by things like the weather, time of day, traffic, how many other taxis there are, whether you can bargain in kiswahili, whether you have lots of bags, etc. Starting to walk to the daladala stand can show you're serious about negotiating - actually going there and taking a dala will really save you money.
See the '''By car''' in the '''Get In''' in the Tanzania article.
There are quite a number of Internet Cafes in Dar located in Different places, But this particular one is the most popular especially for visitors '''CybeBase Internet Cafe'''' Located along Shekilango Road in '''Sinza''' +255-787-000157 OR +255-719-924389, cybebase@gmail.com
Some local tour groups offer guide bicycling tours around the city. This is a good way to get further a field and interact with the locals.
For a countryside cycle trip, the Pugu Hills Nature Centre 12 km. from the international airport (0754 565 498) is a good opportunity, but you need to come with your own bike and make a booking if you plan to visit the place ([http://www.puguhills.com]).
'''Choice of vehicle'''
'''Navigation'''
'''Driving in the city'''
'''Note:''' Carjackings are uncommon but opening doors or jumping through open windows to steal valuables is not. Keep your windows closed and doors locked. As of February 2008, reports have arisen of thieves aiming for golden and silver earrings at traffic lights, simply ripping them out. When stopped at traffic lights or parked in unattended locations, thieves have been known to steal mirrors, paneling, spare tires and anything that is not either engraved with the license plate number of bolted to the vehicle's body. Choose your parking spots carefully and don't leave valuables in plain sight. You can either offer the parking attendant a small tip to watch your vehicle, 500 to 1000 Tzs, or find a secured parking lot, especially if your leaving the vehicle overnight. Hotels often provide such parking areas.
'''Routes'''
'''Dangers and annoyances'''
'''NOTE:''' A senior government official has suggested that the Government purchase helicopters to ferry officials and dignitaries to and from the airport and around town in a bid to reduce traffic congestion. Needless to say that this request was not well received by representatives from the various donor countries and international aid agencies.
A price must be negotiated before your begin traveling, or the price will be considerably higher once you reach your destination. It is not customary to tip your driver. While there are many friendly and honest drivers, some will try their luck and quote an outrageous price to anyone who looks wealthy. Even if you can't see another taxi around, don't agree to it. Another taxi is sure to be just around the corner. It is quite practical to begin walking in the direction you want to go. You'll either find one on the side of the road or one will drive past. Cars owned by drivers are often maintained at a high level; taking a smooth air-conditioned trip around Dar is entirely possible if you know the right driver!
If you plan on hiring a taxi for a long journey, inspect the quality of the tires, which are often extremely worn.
Don't hesitate to tell the driver to slow down. "Pole Pole" in Swahili.
'''To/from the airport to/from the city center''' - the average price is 15000 Tzs. This can sometimes be negotiated down, especially if you pay in USD.
'''To/from city center to/from Msasani Peninsula''' - should run about 7,000 Tzs.
For a small premium, you can reserve a taxi for the whole day. This can convenient if your visiting a number of places and doing some shopping. You should be able to get it for 30000 Tzs.
You can jump on and off anywhere along the route by simply yelling out, "Shusha!" (pronounced SHOO-sha).
Their popularity is due to the low cost, TSh300/= per ride (as of Aug 2008), and sheer numbers. However, tourists should be aware that drivers will pile in as many people as possible, there is no a/c, some drive like maniacs, and the overall condition of the vehicles is poor, with many frequently breaking down along the way. That being said, travelers should not hesitate to use them for getting around. Watch out for pickpockets as you get into and leave crowded vehicles.
It helps if you know a little Kiswahili and are at least a little familiar with the city when using daladalas. If you_fre trying to get to the city center, hop onto any daladala marked 'posta'. They all go to the central post office on Maktaba/Azikiwe St. Since they tend to be very crowded, you should guard your belongings. This is especially true when you are at large bus stations such as Mwenge.
The best part is that locals will often strike up friendly conversations and are always willing to help you with your Kiswahili. Travel by daladala can be quite enjoyable so long as you are on the correct route.
Bahari Beach hotel, is about 20km to the north of Dar es Salaam along New Bagamoyo Road. The hotel charges a small fee for non-guests.
'''Kigamboni''' and '''Kipepeo''', also called "South Beach", are situated across the channel from the Zanzibar ferry. You can get to the other side by ferry, not the same as for Zanzibar. The ferry station is north of the Zanzibar ferry past the Kilimanjaro Kempinski Hotel near the main fish market. You walk onto the ferry which costs 100Tsh. The crossing takes about 5 minutes. Once across, you can hire a taxi to take you to the beaches, most of which are accessed through the various hotels along the coast. Public beaches have all been sold to developers. Hotels, such as the Sunrise, will charge a 5,000Tsh entry fee. 3,000TSh of which is returned to you in the form of food vouchers. Most hotels are about 5km from the ferry and you should be able to get there for 10,000 to 15,000Tsh depending on your negotiating skills. There are also daladalas which ply the road to the beaches.
Further south from Kipepeo, 35 km, are '''Amani''' [http://www.amanibeach.com] and '''Ras Kutani''' [http://www.selous.com/raskutani/rasoverview.htm] resorts. These are upscale resorts popular with locals and the ex-pat community. Ras Kutani does not accept children under 6.
For a great day trip, head out to '''Bongoyo Island'''. Bongoyo is a small, uninhabited island just off the coast. The boat to Bongoyo leaves from Slipway, the upscale set of shops and markets on the Msasani Peninsula, just north of Dar es Salaam. A taxi from the city center should run you 7,000 Tsh. The first boat leaves at 9:30AM, with others at 11:30AM, 1:30PM and 3:30PM, with a minimum of four people. The ferry cost 11,000Tsh and another US$5 for the marine park fee. The return ferries are at 12:30PM, 2:30PM and the last one at 17:00. There is a small restaurant on the island which serves a variety of foods and drinks (chips, fish and chips, egg and chips, beer etc.). Another option is to buy food at the Shoprite at Slipway. You can relax without having to worry about anyone stealing your things. Take a hike around the island, or just relax under a banda on the beach. Bandas are free but a chair cost 1,500Tsh for the day. On the weekend, be sure to get on the first ferry if you want a banda, it gets very busy on Saturday and Sunday. When you come back, you can get ice cream or meal at several of the Slipway restaurants and watch the sun set. You can also check out the Tinga Tinga paintings at the market.
There are quite a number of night clubs in Dar es Salaam. Probably the most popular is Bilicanas, which is lively and sometimes not quite as full of prostitutes as the other clubs. It is popular with locals and ex-pats alike. Music is varied, depending on the night, from local to Congolese to dance to hip-hop. (The only time I've ever heard hip-hop played right before Aqua's "Barbie Girl"; the place goes nuts when they play the cheesy songs). California Dreamers is another club, but it is too full of prostitutes to recommend. There are numerous other smaller clubs that can be fun, but harder to get to.
'''Hiking''' is possible in the Pugu Hills, some 12 KM west of the airport. Selected villagers can assist as guide for a hike around the Pugu Hills or to the major cattle market of Dar es Salaam. Arrangements are through the '''Pugu Hills Nature Centre''' ([http://www.puguhills.com]). For directions to Pugu Hills see web site.
If you like to have a chillout evening, the '''Mediterraneo Lounge''' has a large collection of chill-out music. At the '''Mediterraneo Hotel & Restaurant Lounge''' you can enjoy the fantastic view of the Indian Ocean while sipping your favourite drink, and listening to the best lounge & chill-out music in Dar Es Salaam.
The wholesale textile markets are on Uhuru St. in the Mnazi Mmoja district near Kariakoo, although the number of people and the attention can be overwhelming for some visitors.
There is a fantastic craft market in Mwenge, the Mwenge Carvers' Market. Here you can watch many of the artists make the crafts that are sold throughout the country (although some crafts sold in Tanzania are imported from Kenya). Prices range from expensive to extremely cheap. There are many stalls selling similar things, and if you are savvy, you might be able to pit the vendors against each other. The perk of the Mwenge market is the sheer volume of crafts to choose from. If you like the style of something at a specific store (they tend to carry items made by one or two artists), and you have some time, you can meet the artist and have them custom make something for you. The market closes at dusk. Shopping around this time gets you the best deals.
There is a smaller market at Slipway, which is a good place to get Tinga Tinga paintings and large batiks as well.
Local paintings are often executed in a style unique to Tanzania, "tinga-tinga", named after the artist who founded the style, Edward Said Tinga Tinga. Some good places to find them are at the Slipway market, and in the alley off of Haille Selassie Road on the Peninsula, next to QBar.
In November 2006, the brand new "Mlimani City" shopping complex opened. As of early 2007, a "Shoprite" supermarket and a "Game" department store, both South African chains, are open for business seven days a week. Although it is a fair distance from the city center, it can be reached by taking a Dalla Dalla or taxi to the Mwenge bus terminal, and walking approximately ten minutes further past the craft market (see below).
If you run out of things to read, there are some surprisingly well stocked English language bookshops called '''A Novel Idea'''. See the Books section a little further down for a list of stores.
There is a good selection of electronics and appliance vendors on Samora Avenue.
There are a number of book stores near the Askari monument at Samora Ave & the Posta Road, selling mostly academic texts / school books.
If you're looking for an authentic shopping experience, a visit to Kariakoo market, especially on Saturday morning, could be just the thing. '''WARNING:''' This is not for everyone. The market is VERY crowded and for some the smells and noises can be overwhelming. If you're keen but hesitating, it might be best to find a Tanzanian friend or person familiar with the market to help you navigate around. '''DO NOT''' bring any valuables and only bring a small amount of money that you wish to spend, as pickpockets work the area and in the commotion your watch, cell phone, mp3, sunglasses and wallet can be expertly removed, or your nice leather handbag slashed with a razor. I_fve been to the market a fair bit and have witnessed many brazen theft attempts and successful thefts. Even seasoned Kariakoo shoppers occasionally fall prey to these sophisticated teams of thieves.
'''Haggling''': Haggling is expected when purchasing almost anything in Dar. However, on several occasions I've observed unnecessary arrogant and aggressive behaviour from travelers trying to buy carvings and paintings in the various tourist markets. Although it is true that most merchants quote much higher prices to tourists than locals, sometimes three times the price, negotiations should still be undertaken with respect and good humour. Don't expect to pay the same as a local and don't be insulted when you aren't. The reality is that you probably have more money in your pocket than many Tanzanians see in a year. This also applies to backpackers. Remember the extra dollar or two you paid for that carving will most likely be used to buy food for the family. None of these merchants are rich. If you think it's too expensive leave and look elsewhere, don_ft call them thieves. Kariakoo is the cheapest market in Tanzania. If you want to buy cheap souvenirs, this is the place for you. If you're a ''Muzungu'' (i.e. white person) shop owners will try to charge you much more that is worth. But that will be cheaper than what you get in the city or everywhere else in Tanzania. General rules: African necklaces should not be bought for more than 2000 shilings (the correct price is TS1000 but you won't get that price easily), small drums should be bought for as much as TS4-5000 and soft stone products (hearts, plates, small animals, jewelry boxes etc) should not be purchased for more than 10,000 shilings.
When it comes to expensive souvenirs, Tanzania has cornered the market with a gemstone that can only be found (mined) in Tanzania, hence the name Tanzanite. Shops selling this exquisite blue stone are located in all major cities and towns, especially those popular with tourists like Zanzibar, Arusha and Dar. Your biggest problem will be knowing that what you're getting is the real thing and worth the money you're shelling out for it.
The rule of thumb is the darker the gem the more expensive it is. Light colored Tanzanite is genuine just not as sought after as the darker stones. But like all things there is much more to a stone's value than just its colour so do your homework if you plan on spending a lot on one of them.
Grading is on a alphabetical scale with AAA being the best and B being the lightest and cheapest. Expect to pay as much as US$850 per carat for AAA. If, like most visitors, you're new to this gem, buying from a reputable shop, such as Lothys at the Kilimanjaro Hotel Kempinski or Tanzanite Dream might be more expensive but you're assured of what you're getting. Nonetheless, there are several other good shops around Dar where you can get nice pieces or simply buy the gems and have them set back home. Like all things, negotiating is key.
You can get all kinds of delicious meals in Dar. With a large native South Asian population, the Indian food is amazing. Although scattered all over the city, some of the best places are found in and around Zanaki Street.
$ = Cheap (1,000 - 5,000Tsh for a meal for one) $$ = Average (5,000 - 10,000Tsh) $$$ = Moderate (10,000 - 20,000) $$$$ = Expensive (20,000+)
Traditional Tanzanian food can be had on almost any street. From grilled meats (mishikaki) to BBQ corn on the cob, and chips and eggs (chips mayai). If you're looking for something a little more sanitary, there are a number of small hotels and restaurants that serve a buffet style meal at lunch time which offers a variety of Tanzanian stews, deep fried fish and chicken, and vegetables. Some good choices:
For something even more upscale, try the Sunday Brunch at the '''Kilimanjaro Hotel'''. The restaurant on the ground floor offers a wide variety of Western dishes but also includes several local favourites taken up a notch. It's not cheap, about 30,000 Tzs per person, but if you're interested in trying Tanzanian cuisine without risking gastrointestinal complications, if you're from the USA(heartburn country), it's your best bet.
'''SeaCliff Village''' and '''Slipway''' (peninsula), '''Harbor View Suites Mall''' (Samora Ave), and the '''Steer's Complex''' (Ohio Street) have multiple fast-food type restaurants in one place, as well as shopping. Limited menus of pizza, burgers, indian, sandwiches, ice cream, etc.
For upscale meals, visit the '''Movenpick''' (formerly the Royal Palm Hotel), The '''Holiday Inn''', '''Kilimanjaro Kempenski Hotel''' in the city center.
All of these hotels offer excellent fixed-price breakfast buffets, which often include sparkling wine, and can be a good value if you are hungry or want to escape for a while.
But the best place to eat, both in terms of price and atmosphere, is on the street. Places to try include the corner of Morogoro road and Jamhuri street, or the large open space in front of the Dar Express bus company ticket office. Chips mayai (chips in an omelet) should be about 700 or 800 shillings.
You should only drink bottled water. A 1.5 liter bottle will cost you only 450 shillings, but you can also drink tap water if you've purified it with iodine tablets or boiled it.
'''Kilimanjaro''', '''Serengeti''' and '''Safari''' (a stronger beer, 5.5% alcohol) are local beers and popular with Tanzanian's and foreigners.
Import beer available in Dar include '''Tusker''', '''Ndovu''', '''Stella Artois''', '''Castel Lager''' and '''Heineken'''.
'''Konyagi''' is a popular local gin, and its variant '''Konyagi Ice''' is comparable to hard lemonade and other sweet drinks.
'''Krest''', bottled locally by Coca Cola, offer Club Soda, Tonic Water and Bitter Lemon drinks. '''Stoney Tangawizi''' (ginger ale) is one of the more popular soda drinks. Sodas come in glass bottles and you'll usually be asked to return the bottle or pay extra to take it, but they don't usually like that.
All of the large hotels have full bars with air conditioning. Many offer 2-for-1 happy hour specials in the late afternoon/early evening.
The cost of accommodation can vary from 1500 Tzs a night for very basic rooms to hundreds of dollars for the '''Movenpick'''. The '''YMCA''' (near Posta daladala stand) is the main place to stay and meet fellow backpackers. It fills up quickly. Items left in locked rooms at the '''Jambo Inn''' near Mnazi Moja have a way of disappearing, which can turn a cheap bed into a very expensive night.
Dar also has many inexpensive guest houses outside of the city center, particularly in the area south of the university. If you feel like experiencing Dar as most of its residents do, ask for help finding a cheap "gesti" and be prepared to go off the beaten track.
City center:
Msasani Peninsula: In September 2007, the '''Sea Cliff Hotel''' was almost completely gutted by fire. This was a popular upscale hotel on the Peninsula with a beautiful view on the Indian Ocean. It has now resumed operations.
If you're wanting to escape the city, there are a few upscale hotels just outside of Dar. Just off the road to Bagamoyo, New Bagamoyo road, about a 45 minute drive from the city center, without traffic of course, there is the '''White Sands Hotel'''. Some people may like this option as there are several scuba diving schools situated in and around the hotel.
<sleep name="Jangwani Sea Breeze Resort" phone="+255 2647215" email="gmjangwani@eclipsehotelsafrica.com" url="http://jangwaniseabreezeresort.com">Eclipse Group of Hotels</sleep>
Hannes Prinsloo runs '''Sea Breeze Marine Ltd''' from the water park adjacent to the White Sands Hotel. His staff are professional and friendly. E-mail him at [mailto:info@seabreezemarine.org info@seabreezemarine.org] Information about the diving can be found on the website www.seabreezemarine.org [http://www.seabreezemarine.org]or call +255 754 783 241.
'''Organizing safaris or travel out of Dar'''
You can organize all safaris and travel around Tanzania from Dar es Salaam. There are several good travel agents that can help you organize anything.
'''Kearleys Travel and Tours''' [http://www.kearsleys.com] which has offices in the Movenpick and at the Sea Cliff Village and '''Emslies Travel Ltd''' [http://www.emsliestravel.com/index.php] across from the Movenpick are excellent. You can also contact many safari lodges directly to arrange accommodation. Be advised that in many cases, lodges and safari tours require cash payment. More and more places are starting to accept credit cards, but do not assume that you can pay with a credit card.
In the south and around Dar '''Foxes Safari''' [http://tanzaniasafaris.info] run several safari and beach lodges. Mikumi, Ruaha, Sadaani, and Lazy Lagoon, just to name a few places they operate.