'''Brasilia''', the capital of Brazil, is a planned city. Inaugurated in 1960 in the Central Highlands of Brazil, it is a masterpiece of modernist architecture listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO and attracts architecture aficionados
worldwide. Brasilia is also an important transportation hub for travel within Brazil.
Understand
The basic structure of Brasilia was completed in just four years, from 1956 to 1960, under the leadership of President Juscelino Kubitschek, with the slogan "fifty years of progress in five", and the city is in a sense a memorial to him. The cathedral as six columns reprsenting two hands reaching up to almighty heaven.
The city plan is designed in the shape of a giant bird or airplane, with various separated zones assigned for specific functions such as housing, commerce, hospitals and banking. Running down the center of the "airplane's" fuselage is the thoroughfare called the ''Eixo Monumental'' ("Monumental Axis") and at one end lay the government buildings. The arched "wings" are residential zones, with several rows of medium-rise apartment blocks with small commercial districts. The intersection is the commercial and cultural hub, with stores, hotels, and the cathedral. A huge artificial lake serves the city as both a leisure area and to diminish the effects of low humidity in drier months (see ''Climate'' below).
After 48 years from its creation (1960), Brasilia is still developing a culture of its own. The city has often been criticized as a failed utopia where rationalized modernist planning has buried the human element. Yet Brazilians are quite proud of their capital, embodying a vision of a future when Brazil is no longer considered merely a "developing" country.
The original planned area (called ''Plano Piloto'') is home to about 400,000 inhabitants, most of the city's upper classes. The so-called satellite cities (15 to 40 kilometres away concentrate the remaining of the 2.2 million inhabitants of this great city of Brasilia (Distrito Federal).
Orientation and addresses
Getting a grasp of Brasilia's addresses may be a little perplexing at first, as they are usually shortened to acronyms. Here are some useful tips:
The Monumental Axis divides the city into north and south sectors. Acronyms ended in N refer to sectors on the northern side, while those ended in S are on the south.
SHS/SHN - Hotel sectors (''Setor Hoteleiro'')
SCS/SCN - Commercial sectors (''Setor Comercial'')
SQS/SQN - Residential sectors (''Superquadras'')
CLS/CLN (or SCLS/SCLN) - Local commerce sectors (''Comercio Local'') along the wings.
Climate
Temperatures seldom hit extremes. 17__C to 28__C (63 to 82__F) are the average lows and highs, but it can get as low as 1__C (34__F) in winter and get as hot as 34__C (92__F) in September/October. In dry season (August-September) the city's landscape, normally very green, becomes desert-like and everyone must drink lots of water to prevent the unpleasant effects of dehydration. On the other hand, during those months the city is blessed with a gorgeous sunset in spectacular shades of orange, pink and red. The best months to go are probably May and June - still green, but no longer so hot, with fewer chances of rainfall.
Tourist information
Official tourist info can be obtained from [http://www.setur.df.gov.br/ Brasilia's tourist authority] (in Portuguese).
Get in
By plane
Due to long distances and falling prices in air travel, flying has become a practical way of getting to Brasilia. The city is a national air travel hub, and there should be plenty of flights. In fact you may find your plane touching down at Brasilia airport even if you're not starting or ending anywhere near, such as Salvador to Belem. On the other hand, despite being a major international capital, getting in directly from abroad is difficult to impossible in most cases. Virtually all flights are domestic, and you will have to go through Brazilian customs and immigration elsewhere and re-board. Currently, there are only non-stop flights from Lisbon (TAP Portugal), and Buenos Aires (TAM Brazil). Delta Airlines will begin non-stop service from Atlanta to Brasilia in December of 2009.
'''Presidente Juscelino Kubitschek International Airport''' ({{IATA|BSB}}) ({{ICAO|SBBR}}), Brasilia's airport (''phone:(61) 3364-9000, fax: (61) 3364-9251''), is situated 11 km (7 mi) from the city center and has one of the few tourist information services in town (''phone (61) 3033.9488, from 7.30 am to 10.30 pm''). It also has an exchange office at the arrivals area, another one at ''Banco do Brasil'' (open Mo-Fri 11:00-16:00, departures area) and several ATMs.
Taxis are the most convenient means of getting from the airport into the city. They are relatively expensive for Brazilian standards and the 20-minute drive to the hotel zone should cost about R$ 30-40. Buses number 102 and 102.1 are frequent and significantly cheaper. They link the airport to the main bus terminal at ''Rodoviaria'', from where you can catch buses or the subway to other parts of the city.
By bus
Due to its central location, Brasilia is well served by a bus network that connects it with the rest of Brazil. Travel times are about 15 hours to São Paulo, 18 hours to Rio, 10 hours to Belo Horizonte and 3 hours to Goiania. Buses from other States arrive at a dedicated bus station called ''rodoferroviaria'' (''phone:(61) 3363-4045''), that is located at the west end of the axis and is connected to the city centre by bus (number 131, frequency each 10-20 minutes, from 5 am to midnight) and taxis.
By car
Drivers coming from southern and Center-west states will arrive by the ''Saida Sul'' entrance. From other states, you'll enter Brasilia by ''Saida Norte''. After you're inside the Federal District, keep following the ''Brasilia'' signs and ''Zona Central'' if you're staying at the hotel sector.
Get around
Ride the buses, take a cab, hitchhike, but whatever you do, don't plan on getting around Brasilia on foot. The city was designed under the assumption that every resident would own an automobile. Obviously things didn't turn out that way, and the city's public transport is a solution to an almost deliberately designed problem. Fortunately it works fairly well. Note that the roads have few crosswalks or traffic lights, so being a pedestrian also requires some caution.
By bus
Most local buses start from or go through the ''rodoviária'', at the precise center of the city, and run along the "wings" - serving the residential zones - or through the ''Monumental Axis''.
Red-and-white minibuses, called ''Zebrinha'' (little zebras) or ''Transporte de Vizinhanca'' are very useful for moving around, as they link the central area of Brasilia (Setor Comercial, Setor de Diversoes etc.) to ''Esplanada dos Ministerios'', the airport and some of the main avenues (L2 and W3).
Unlike many other Brazilian cities, passengers in Brasilia board buses by the front door. Buses must be flagged, otherwise they will only stop when a passenger requests to hop off.
Single fares are R$ 2,00 for travel within Brasilia. There is no advance sale of tickets, pay as you board.
By taxi
Taxis are relatively expensive in Brasilia and usually cannot be hailed on the streets. Taxi stands, however, are close to all tourist attractions and any hotel will be able to call a cab or provide the phone number of the best known dispatch offices. All taxis must have taximeters and can start charging only after the passenger has boarded.
By subway
The [http://www.metro.df.gov.br/ Metro] subway system started operating in 2001. Its Y-shaped line starts in the main bus station (Rodoviaria de Brasilia - "Central" station) and makes its first stop at Setor Comercial Sul ("Galeria" station), which is fairly near some hotels South of Monumental Axis. It runs along the south wing, but stops only at block 114 (other stations seem to be forever under construction). Long open only Monday to Friday, the subway now operates on weekends as well from 6 AM to 11 PM. It's not particularly useful for tourists, but you may check Around Brasilia by subway, for a proposed itinerary that includes attractions such as the Buddhist Temple (EQS 115/116, access by "114 Sul" Station); Parkshopping mall (next to "Shopping" station) and a typical fair in the satellite city of Guara (access by "Feira" Station). Single fare: R$ 3,00, R$ 2,00 on Saturdays, Sundays and holidays.
By car
If you arrive by car or decide to rent one there, note that drivers behave differently than in other places in Brazil:
Stop at pedestrian crossings - pedestrians will wave a hand before crossing or usually simply start walking. Keep an eye on the sidewalks at all times. Policemen enforce this rule and you can get fined if you disrespect it.
Use of horns - do not honk unless you really need to. ''Brasilienses'' hate it and really appreciate their driving to be as silent as possible.
See
Nearly all of Brasilia's architectural sites are on the eastern part of the Monumental Axis.
'''The Square of the Three Powers''' (''Praca dos Tres Poderes'') at the extreme end of the axis includes the seats of the country's 3 highest authorities: the '''Congress''', the Presidential Palace (called '''Palacio do Planalto''') and the '''Supreme Court'''. The axis itself is aligned such that on April 21 (Tiradentes Day, marking the death of a Brazilian independence martyr), the sun rises precisely between the two towers of Congress. The bronze statue of two abstract figures is named ''Os Candangos'' and represents the pioneering spirit of the workers who built the city. There's also a "blind justice" statue by the Supreme Court, a small museum and a model, built to scale, of Brasilia itself.
The facade of the '''Palace of Justice''' has waterfalls that contrast with its stern geometrical beauty
'''Itamaraty Palace''' which houses the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, also stands out among the ministry buildings at '''Esplanada dos Ministerios''' and is open for guided visits from 2pm-4:30 pm on weekdays and Sat-Sun 10am-3:30pm. Tel. 3411-6148 [http://www.mre.gov.br].
'''Brasilia Cathedral''' is midway along the axis. With its sixteen curved 90-ton concrete pillars and stained-glass panels, is one of the world's most amazing modernist buildings. Mon and Sat 8am-5pm, Tue-Fri and Sun 8am-6pm. Tel. 3224-4073 [http://www.catedral.org.br/]
'''National Theater'''
The '''Television Tower''' is the best place for a sweeping panorama of the city. There is also a crafts and typical food market on the basis of the tower. As of December 2006, however, the lift to the viewpoint is closed for maintenance (or due to the lack thereof), although it is still possible to take an expensive guided helicopter flight from the vicinity.
The '''Juscelino Kubitschek Memorial''' on the western part of the axis is a museum dedicated to the life and accomplishments of the president, and houses his remains as well. It's located underground and has a slightly spooky 1960's science-fiction feel to it.
'''Palacio da Alvorada''' (Palace of Dawn) - The President's official residence. Its arches are icons of the capital.
'''Cultural Complex of the Republic''' - Open next to the Cathedral on December 2006, this large space-age oval museum currently holds only temporary exhibitions. Next to it, a huge library is also beginning to operate.
'''Public works of art''' - Some of the finest Brazilian artists have created works in Brasilia: Burle Marx (landscape design), Athos Bulcao (geometric tile panels), Oscar Niemeyer (buildings and sculptures) Ceschiatti and Bruno Giorgio (sculptures). These can be seen on the streets, open air and for free.
The "wing" sectors, while mostly residential, contain a few notable buildings:
'''Dom Bosco Church''', Av. W3 sul, quadra 702. A beautiful modern church built on concrete and blue stained glass. Bosco was a 19th-century Italian priest whose writings, some say, prophesied the creation of Brasilia. It's impossible not to notice the ''huge'' crystal chandelier hanging from the ceiling in the middle of the square church.
Besides the outstanding architecture and art, Brasilia also has attractions on the natural side:
'''Paranoa Lake''' - ''Pontao'' has lakeside restaurants and a park while the ''Ermida Dom Bosco'' chapel provides gorgeous views of the city from across the Lake, an excellent place to watch Brasilia's famous sunsets. You can swin in the lake at an Ecological Park next to ''Ermida'', but for some reason, it's not a popular amusement among ''brasilienses''.
'''City Park''' (''Parque da Cidade'') - Slightly larger than NYC's Central Park, this wide green area is the city's hot spot for sports such as jogging, cycling, skating and even kart racing, as well as barbecues and other outdoor activities.
'''Brasilia National Park''' - ''Cerrado'' vegetation and fauna, plus natural swimming pools.
'''Poco Azul''' - A waterfall forming beautiful blue pools on a quartz rock.
'''Chapada Imperial''' - Trekking, rappelling and mountain biking through the ''cerrado'' and waterfalls.
Although lacking major museums, culture vultures may enjoy the city's contemporary arts scene, one of the country's most active. Cultural centers like [http://www.cultura-e.com.br CCBB], Conjunto Cultural da Caixa (SBS Quadra 4), Espaco Cultural 508 sul (SCRS 508) and [http://www.eccobrasilia.com.br Espaco Ecco] hold frequent exhibitions from national and international artists.
Do
'''Cinema Festival''' - Brasilia hosts one of the most important festivals of Brazilian cinema. The ''Festival de Cinema Brasileiro'' takes place late October/early November and screens independent and mainstream movies that will hit the theaters the following year. Both short and feature films are presented, but the movies have no subtitles.
Japanese Festival. onpa Hongwanji Temple, EQS 315/316. eekends of August - Sat and Sun from 6 pm. ree. The Japanese community of Brasilia celebrates the ''Obon Festival'', with ''bon odori'' dances and stalls selling typical food and other Japanese items.
Buy
Brasilia's residential wings have many local shops such as groceries, drugstores, bakers, restaurants, hairdressers and so forth, and that is where townspeople do much of their daily shopping. The now somewhat decadent W3 avenue used to be the equivalent of a city's high street and still concentrates a large portion of the city's street commerce. Shopping malls, however, also play an important part when it comes to shopping in town.
The '''Setor de Diversoes''' is a fairly nice shopping area at the center of the city, very close to ''Rodoviaria''. The northern side, called ''Conjunto Nacional'', is a bit more upscale, while the southern side has interesting small shops with books, music, and clothing that appeal to the local skateboard-riding youths. Notice that this southern side at night is very dangerous, being (unfortunately) the favorite spot for hookers and drug dealers.
On Sundays there is a flea market at the base of the ''Television Tower''.
Some off-center places can also be of interest for travellers:
The '''imports market''' (popularly known as ''Feira do Paraguai'') is the place to go for cheap electronics (cameras and replacement accessories, batteries etc.) and other travel items such as backpacks, flashlights and so forth. From ''Rodoviaria'', take bus 124.2 (shorter trip) or bus 124.
'''Records and books''' - ''FNAC'', at the ''Parkshopping'' mall has a good assortment of English-language travel guides and Brazilian music CDs. Livraria Cultura, at the ''Casa Park'' mall, has bilingual staff and an extensive collection of Brazilian CDs and foreign-language literature (especially in English, French, Spanish, Italian and German). Both malls are close to each other and can be easily reached by subway through the (almost self-explanatory named) ''Shopping'' station.
Eat
Brasilia does not have a typical, regional cuisine. Nevertheless, restaurants serve food from many Brazilian states, as well as international fare.
Self-service (''por quilo'') restaurants are very common and usually cheaper than their ''a la carte'' counterparts.
Most of Brasilia's "real" (table service) restaurants are located at the residential wings, usually a bus or taxi ride away from most tourist attractions. One of the most popular streets is ''405 sul'' (from rodoviaria, take bus 114), with choices ranging from sushi to Brazilian, Mexican and French food.
Budget
A convenient place for finding reasonably priced food is the food court of the '''Conjunto Nacional''' mall (also see ''Buy'', above). The mall is located right beside the main bus terminal (''rodoviaria'') and at walking distance from many hotels and of the main attractions such as the Three Powers Square.
Local chain '''Giraffas''' (several locations around town) rivals McDonalds in the fast food market by serving sandwiches and cheap beef/chicken + rice-and-beans set meals.
Pizzaria Dom Bosco. $ 1.50/slice. The oldest active pizzeria in Brasilia. Sells reasonably cheap pizza by the slice.
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:* <eat name="" alt="" address="CLN 306 Bloco C Loja 46" directions="" phone="(+55 61) 3347-0904" email="" fax="" hours="M-Su 9AM-11PM" price="" url=""></eat>
:* <eat name="" alt="" address="CLSW 303 Bloco A Loja 18" directions="" phone="(+55 61) 3341-2493" email="" fax="" url="" hours="M-Su 9AM-11PM" price=""></eat>
Mid-range
'''Don'Durica''' ? SCLN 201, Bloco A, (61) 3326-1045. (Mo-Sat 11:30am-3pm/6pm-midnight). This all-you-can-eat buffet offers more than 50 dishes for lunch, mainly from Minas Gerais cuisine.
Vegetarians may try and escape ubiquitous meat dishes of Brazilian cuisine at '''Bardana''' - SCLS 405 bloco A, (61) 3242-3532. Try the tropical juices too.
El Paso Texas. CLS 404 - Bloco C , lj 19. 323-4618. $ 20-40. A favorite with Danish national Simon Cederholm, this restaurant offers a six-course meal, which changes every month. Inspired by Scandinavian cuisine, the place is popular with Nordic visitors to Brasilia. Reservations are a must.
Drink
Despite not being particularly famous for its nightlife, Brasilia has some hangouts that save visitors from night-time boredom.
'''Beirute''' - SQS 109 Bloco A (''take any bus that goes through ''Eixo W Sul'', drop at 109 Sul''), ''+55 61'' 3244-1717, [http://www.beiruteweb.com.br/]. Opens daily, until 2am. One of the oldest and most traditional bars in town, serves reasonably priced beer and Arab food, and attracts a mixed crowd of students, journalists, gay people and intellectuals. Is also one of the best places to pick up flyers and find out the best parties to go.
'''Clube do Choro''' - Setor de Divulgacao Cultural (''Near the Convention Center'') ''+55 61'' 3327-0494 (''producao@clubedochoro.com.br, fax ''+55 61'' 3425-1448'') [http://www.clubedochoro.com.br/]. This club is also a school of ''choro'', a genuinely Brazilian instrumental popular music style, played with a flute, guitar and cavaquinho (a small chordophone with four strings). Located near the TV tower, it has weekly presentations of national choro artists. Call in advance to check availability, as tickets are limited and often sold out days before the shows.
'''Gate's Pub''' - CLS 403 Bloco B. ''+55 61'' 3225-4576/3322-9301 (''viajando@loreno.net''). [http://www.gatespub.com.br/] This pub-cum-club has a dartboard and is one of the few places to offer a week-round choice of nights, ranging from Brazilian music to alternative electronic stuff. Opens Mo/We 9pm, Tu/Thu/Sat/Sun 10 pm. Fri 11pm. Admission R$ 5 - R$ 18 (there are usually discounts before 11 pm).
'''Manara''' - CRLN 706/7 Bl. E Lj. 60 - Asa Norte. ''+55 61'' 3273-3192. Cheap beer, narguile (hookah) and Lebanese food. Mo/Th 11h-0h; Fr/Sa 11h-2h. Currently closed due to the owner's death.
'''Por-do-Sol''' - CLN 408 BL C, s/n lj 24 - Asa Norte. ''+55 61'' 3274-8861. Favorite bar of University of Brasilia students. It is always crowded, so it is a great place to see different people. The beer doesn't get any cheaper elsewhere. You have to get it on the counter, though. You can see the youth of Brasilia over here, drinking beer and talking about anything. Some consider the whole 408 quadra as a sort of "alcoholic set-up", due to the many bars.
'''Brauhaus''' - CLS 303 BL A Lj. 31 - Asa Sul. ''+55 61'' 3224-3225. Sells beers from all over the world, with around 70 different brands. Mo-Th 17h-2h; Fr-Sa from 16h.
'''UKBrasil Pub''' - SCLS 411 BL B Lj. 28 - Asa Sul. ''+55 61'' 3346-5214. Live music with local bands, mostly covers of famous bands. Doesn't accept credit cards. There's a separate room where you can smoke. Tu-Sa from 18h. [http://www.ukbrasilpub.com.br/]
Although the city's music scene is no longer as vibrant as it was in the 80s - when it bred some of the greatest pop/rock talents of recent generations with bands like ''Capital Inicial'' and ''Legiao Urbana'' - live shows of local bands are frequent. Daily listings in Portuguese can be found at the local newspapers or the [http://divirtase.correioweb.com.br Correioweb] and [http://www.candango.com.br Candango] websites.
Sleep
Most of the city's accommodation is located at the Hotel Sectors (SHS and SHN), two central areas located on both sides of Eixo Monumental. During weekdays, hotels are usually busy due to the capital's political activity and it is advisable to book in advance. Typical prices are R$ 200 for a double room.
Many simple ''pousadas'' are located at ''W3 Sul'' avenue. They are often non-regulated by tourist authorities and their quality and security may vary greatly. In 2008, the local authorities shut these pousadas; do not rely on them existing anymore.
Budget
Hospedagem Alternativa. ia W3 Sul, Quadra 703, Bloco G, Casa 61. 55 61 3224 6775. ingle R$ 35, Double 60-75. Many similar in the neighbourhood.
'''Hostel Brasilia''' - Setor de Areas Isoladas Norte - Camping - Lote 2 (''From Rodoviaria, take bus 143''), (61) 3343-0531/3344-9191 (''hibsb@zipmail.com.br, fax (61) 3342-2476'') [http://www.hostel.org.br]. This ''albergue da juventude'' is a member of FBAJ, the national hostels federation that is a member of Hostelling International. Although it is cheaper than hotels, it is also more distant from most urban facilities and attractions.
Mid-range
'''Bristol Hotel''', SHS Qd. 04 Bloco F. ''61'' 3962-6162, fax ''61'' 3321-2690, ''bristol@bristolhotel.com.br'', [http://www.bristolhotel.com.br]. Central location with easy access to a shopping center and bus lines. Rates from R$80 per night.
Splurge
'''Blue Tree Park''' - SHTN, Trecho 01, (61) 3424-7000 (''fax: (61) 3424-7001; reservas@bluetree.com.br''). [http://www.bluetree.com.br] This large hotel by the Paranoa Lake and right next to the Alvorada Palace is reputed as the city's best. Rates from R$ 250.
'''Melia Comfort''' - SHS, Quadra 6 - Conjunto "A" - Lote 1 - Bloco "D", (61) 3218-4700 (''fax: (11) 3043-8353; reservas.park@meliaconfort.com.br''). [http://www.meliabrasilia.solmelia.com] Strategically placed in the Monumental Axis, between the Television Tower and 50 m from the City Park. It is also within easy reach of the Esplanada of Ministries and 13 km from the airport. Rates from R$ 200.
Sonesta Hotel Brasilia. HN Quadra 5 ? Bloco B ? CEP 70.705-000. ww.sonesta.com/brasilia. A luxury 18-story 148-room hotel, adjacent to the central business and banking districts.
Stay Safe
Brasilia is a safe city, but usual measures should be taken. The surrounding cities like Taguatinga aren't tourist destinations and aren't considered to be as safe as Brasilia itself. At night, the area near the central bus station is not considered to be safe (prostitution and drugs).
Contact
The area code to Brasilia is 61 (also add Brazil's 55 if dialing from abroad). All 7-digit telephone numbers have recently been converted to 8-digit by adding a ''3'' before the number. To reach a number like 241-0000 from abroad, dial (55 61) 3241-0000.
By web
'''Neon Lights''' cybercafe [http://www.neonlights.com.br/], SRTVS, Patio Brasil mall - 2nd Floor, (61) 3322-8060, [mailto:webmaster@neonlights.com.br webmaster@neonlights.com.br]- Conveniently located inside a large shopping mall next to the South Hotel Sector. Opens Mo-Sat 10 am - 10 pm. R$ 6/hour.
'''Media Cyber'''[http://www.mediacyber.com.br/] - Brasilia Shopping mall, G1 floor. (61) 3201-7300. Next to the North Hotel Sector. Has printing and scanning services and sells disks and recordable CDs.
'''RedShot'''[http://www.redshot.com.br/], SCLS 409 Bloco D Loja 30 (''from rodoviaria, take bus 114''). (61) 3443-4359 - This ''lan house'' is aimed primarily at gamers, but has cheaper connections. Opens daily from 10am. R$3-4/hour
There are also many '''Wi-fi''' hotspots scattered around town, including the food court of the airport and various hotels.
Get out
Nearby attractions include:
Pirenopolis - an old Portuguese colonial town surrounded by several waterfalls.
Chapada dos Veadeiros - A National Park with plenty of cerrado wildlife and spectacular waterfalls.
Itiquira waterfall - this beautiful 168m-high warterfall is little more than 100km from Brasilia