'''Matsu''' (_n_c) is the name for a group of island's off China's southern coast, approximately 100 miles NW from the island of Taiwan. The island falls under the jurisdiction of the Republic of China (Taiwan) and along with Kinmen, forms the front lines between the ROC and PRC.
Regions
The main islands of the Matsu archipelago are, in order of size, Nangan, Beigan, Dongyin and Jyuguang.
Other destinations
Understand
Talk
Unlike the rest of the ROC-controlled territories, where Minnan or Southern Min dominates, residents of Matsu speak Mindong or Eastern Min, which is not mutually intelligible with Minnan. However, most residents are bilingual in Mindong and Mandarin.
Get in
By boat
Regular ferry service used mostly by military personnel runs between Matsu and Keelung. The Tai-Ma Ferry (tel. 02-24246868, [http://www.shinhwa.com.tw]) takes ten hours and departs nightly from Keelung at 11pm, calling at Dongyin after eight hours and then arriving two hours later at Nangan. The return journey is an hour later, but only calls at Dongyin on alternate days. Tickets vary between NT$400 and nt NT$1200, depending on the bed (steerage, dorm, quad or twin).
By plane
Matsu is serviced by Beigan and Nangan Airport with domestic flights from Taipei and other cities in Taiwan. Beigan has a larger landing strip, so more frequent flights, from more destinations touch down there. Nankan is served by only one carrier, five flights daily from Taipei. Fog can often delay flights, particularly between March and May. Ticket prices are set by the government, but travelers are advised to purchase the tickets a few days in advance (particularly over weekends/holidays) as the aircraft are small and the flights are often full on departure.
Uni Air (www.uniair.com / 02-25185166
Get around
Travel between Beigan's Baishagang (Baisha Harbour) and Nangan's Fuaogang (Fuao Harbour) by ferry. NT120. Regular, hourly service starting at 7am and finishing at 5h30pm. Fuao Harbour also has connections to the islands of Dongyi (Taima Ferry, ever other day), Jyuguang (3 sailings per day) and Dongjyu and Sijyu (6 sailings per day).
Scooters are the best way of transportation around the islands. On Beigan's FuAo harbour contact 0933933124 for scooter rentals, or ask at any of the shops/hotels a few hundred metres from the docks. On Nankan, there are rental shops within walking distance of both Baisha Harbour and the airport.
Rental is usually 500 - 600 NT per day, but you can negotiate for multi-day discounts.
See
'''Iron fort''' - Originally a training base for special forces, the fort has been opened to tourists.
'''Mazu Temple''' - The religious center of Matsu, goddess of the sea.
'''Folk Cultural Artifacts Exhibition Hall''' - Museum sheds light on life and culture on Matsu
'''Andong and Beihai tunnels''' - Hollowed out tunnels going in for hundreds of metres. Previously used by the military, they are now open to the public.
'''Suicide cliff'''
'''Dongyong and Dongcyuan lighthouses '''
'''Bird Watching '''
'''Fujian architecture '''
Do
Eat
Matsu is famous for its fantastic seafood. Be sure to try superb authentic northern Fujian cuisine at East Fujuin Pearl (22 Matzu village, Nankan) - the specialty is "Buddha Hand clams".
Fish noodles (fish meat rubbed into noodles) is a local specialty - best place is Qinbi village on Beigan.
Jiguang pastry - Made from flour and baked in charcoal urns, these pastries resemble bagels in appearance (and slightly so in taste). They were used by General Chi Jiguang in the Ming Dynasty, so that his soldiers could carry their food on strings on their chests during long marches.
Lao-jiu - Matsu distills Tunnel 88 brand rice wine (38 and 58 proof). Free tastings and a video about the process at the Matsu distillery.
Drink
Stay safe
Though formal hostilities with the PRC ended by the early 1980s, Matsu is still very much a front line area. Visitors are strongly advised not to wander off paved roads when exploring the island due to the possibility of running across old unmarked minefields. It is also advisible to avoid traveling to certain sensitive areas after dark, such as coastal areas or areas near military installations. Visitors should also obey all orders given by military personnel and avoid entering or photographing sensitive areas.
Get out