There are 30 provinces in Iran:
<!-- PLEASE KEEP THIS LIST TO NINE ONLY, AND DISCUSS CHANGES ON THE TALK PAGE FIRST -->
Below is a list of '''nine''' of the most notable cities:
Pasargadae remained the Persian capital until Darius founded another in Persepolis. The modern name comes from the Greek, but may derive from an earlier one used during Achaemenid times, Pathragada, meaning the garden of Pars.
The archaeological site covers 1.6 square kilometres and includes a structure commonly believed to be the mausoleum of Cyrus, the fortress of Toll-e Takht sitting on top of a nearby hill, and the remains of two royal palaces and gardens. The gardens provide the earliest known example of the Persian chahar bagh, or four-fold garden design. (See Persian Gardens.)
Latest research on Pasargadae_fs structural engineering has shown the Achaemenid engineers constructed the city to withstand a severe earthquake, at what would today be classified as a '7.0' on the Richter magnitude scale. The foundations are today classified as having a base isolation design, much the same as what is presently used in countries for the construction of facilities - such as nuclear power plants - that require insulation from the effects of a seismic activity.
The monument generally assumed to be the tomb of Cyrus the Great.The most important monument in Pasargadae is the tomb of Cyrus the Great. It has six broad steps leading to the sepulchre, the chamber of which measures 3.17 m long by 2.11 m wide by 2.11 m high, and has a low and narrow entrance. Though there is no firm evidence identifying the tomb as that of Cyrus, Greek historians tell us that Alexander III of Macedon believed it was so. When Alexander looted and destroyed Persepolis, he paid a visit to the tomb of Cyrus. Arrian, writing in the second century of the common era, recorded that Alexander commanded Aristobulus, one of his warriors, to enter the monument. Inside he found a golden bed, a table set with drinking vessels, a gold coffin, some ornaments studded with precious stones and an inscription of the tomb. No trace of any such inscription survives to modern times, and there is considerable disagreement to the exact wording of the text. Strabo reports that it read:
Passer-by, I am Cyrus, who gave the Persians an empire, and was king of Asia. Grudge me not therefore this monument. Another variation, as documented in Persia: The Immortal Kingdom, is:
O man, whoever thou art, from wheresoever thou cometh, for I know you shall come, I am Cyrus, who founded the empire of the Persians. Grudge me not, therefore, this little earth that covers my body. The design of Cyrus' Tomb is credited alternatively to Mesopotamian or Elamite ziggurats, but the cella is usually attributed to Urartu tombs of an earlier period.[5] In particular, the tomb at Pasargadae has almost exactly the same dimensions as the tomb of Alyattes II, father of the Lydian King Croesus; however, some have refused the claim (according to Herodotus, Croesus was spared by Cyrus during the conquest of Lydia, and became a member of Cyrus' court). The main decoration on the tomb is a rosette design over the door within the gable.[6] In general, the art and architecture found at Pasargadae exemplified the Persian synthesis of various traditions, drawing on precedents from Elam, Babylon, Assyria, and ancient Egypt, with the addition of some Anatolian influences.
During the Islamic conquest of Iran, the Arab armies came upon the tomb and planned to destroy it, considering it to be in direct violation of the tenets of Islam. The caretakers of the grave managed to convince the Arab command that the tomb was not built to honor Cyrus, but instead housed the mother of King Solomon, thus sparing it from destruction. As a result, the inscription in the tomb was replaced by a verse of the Qur'an, and the tomb became known as "Qabr-e Madar-e Sulaiman," or the tomb of the mother of Solomon. It is still widely known by that name today.
Chogha Zanbil (Persian: ??????????) is an ancient Elamite complex in the Khuzestan province of Iran. It is one of the few extant ziggurats outside of Mesopotamia. It lies approximately 25 kilometeres west Dezfoul, 45 kilometres south of Susa and 230 kilometres north of Abadan by way of Ahvaz, which is 120 kilometres away.
It was built about 1250 BC by the king Untash-Napirisha, mainly to honor the great god Inshushinak. Its original name was Dur Untash, which means 'town of Untash', but it is unlikely that many people, besides priests and servants, ever lived there. The complex is protected by three concentric walls which define the main areas of the 'town'. The inner area is wholly taken up with a great ziggurat dedicated to the main god, which was built over an earlier square temple with storage rooms also built by Untash-Napirisha. The middle area holds eleven temples for lesser gods. It is believed that twenty-two temples were originally planned, but the king died before they could be finished, and his successors discontinued the building work. In the outer area are royal palaces, a funerary palace containing five subterranean royal tombs.
Although construction in the city abruptly ended after Untash-Napirisha's death, the site was not abandoned, but continued to be occupied until it was destroyed by the Assyrian king Ashurbanipal in 640 BCE. Some scholars speculate, based on the large number of temples and sanctuaries at Chogha Zanbil, that Untash-Napirisha attempted to create a new religious center (possibly intended to replace Susa) which would unite the gods of both highland and lowland Elam at one site.
Archaeological excavations undertaken between 1951 and 1962 revealed the site again, and the ziggurat is considered to be the best preserved example in the world. In 1979, Chogha Zanbil became the first Iranian site to be inscribed on the UNESCO World
zanjan soltaniehThe mausoleum of Oljaytu was constructed in 1302?12 in the city of Soltaniyeh, the capital of the Ilkhanid dynasty, which was founded by the Mongols. Situated in the province of Zanjan, Soltaniyeh is one of the outstanding examples of the achievements of Persian architecture and a key monument in the development of its Islamic architecture. The octagonal building is crowned with a 50 m tall dome covered in turquoise-blue faience and surrounded by eight slender minarets. It is the earliest existing example of the double-shelled dome in Iran. The mausoleum_fs interior decoration is also outstanding and scholars such as A.U. Pope have described the building as _eanticipating the Taj Mahal_f.
Emam sqaureBuilt by Shah Abbas I the Great at the beginning of the 17th century, and bordered on all sides by monumental buildings linked by a series of two-storeyed arcades, the site is known for the Royal Mosque, the Mosque of Sheykh Lotfollah, the magnificent Portico of Qaysariyyeh and the 15th-century Timurid palace. They are an impressive testimony to the level of social and cultural life in Persia during the Safavid era
The Armenian Monastic The Armenian Monastic Ensembles of Iran, in the north-west of the country, consists of three monastic ensembles of the Armenian Christian faith: St Thaddeus and St Stepanos and the Chapel of Dzordzor. These edifices - the oldest of which, St Thaddeus, dates back to the 7th century ? are examples of outstanding universal value of the Armenian architectural and decorative traditions. They bear testimony to very important interchanges with the other regional cultures, in particular the Byzantine, Orthodox and Persian. Situated on the south-eastern fringe of the main zone of the Armenian cultural space, the monasteries constituted a major centre for the dissemination of that culture in the region. They are the last regional remains of this culture that are still in a satisfactory state of integrity and authenticity. Furthermore, as places of pilgrimage, the monastic ensembles are living witnesses of Armenian religious traditions through the centuries.
Some other world famous historical sites of Iran
In general, Iran has an arid climate in which most of the relatively scant annual precipitation falls from October through April. In most of the country, yearly precipitation averages 25 centimeters or less. The major exceptions are the higher mountain valleys of the Zagros and the Caspian coastal plain, where precipitation averages at least 50 centimeters annually. In the western part of the Caspian, rainfall exceeds 100 centimeters annually and is distributed relatively evenly throughout the year.
To get the visa, US citizens must work in advance with an Iranian travel agency to set up a guided itinerary; only then can that travel agency apply for a visa authorization number from the Iranian Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Once approved, the authorization number is transmitted to the interest section. At that point the applicant can then apply for the visa. Turnaround times can be as short as a week, but the interest section does not reliably answer emails or phone calls. }}
A valid passport and '''visa''' are required for travel through Iran. In 2006 the rules for obtaining a tourist visa changed and it has become much easier for nationals of many countries to get in to Iran by obtaining a visa at the airport. Visa are issued at the Imam Khomeini and Mehrabad airports in Tehran, and also the airports at Mashad, Shiraz, Tabriz and Isfahan. The visa is valid for up to 17 days and costs US$50. You will receive the forms on arrival. You are advised to bring passport photos with you. However, in many cases they are not collected.
Visas are only issued at the airport for holders of ordinary passports from the states below:
Albania, Armenia, Austria, Australia, Azerbaijan, Bahrain, Belarus, Belgium, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Brazil, Brunei, Bulgaria, China, Colombia, Croatia, Cuba, Cyprus, Denmark,Egypt, Finland, France, Georgia, Germany, Greece, Hong Kong, Hungary, India, Indonesia,, Italy, Japan, Kazakhstan, Democratic People_fs Republic of Korea, Republic of Korea, Kuwait, Kyrgyzstan Lebanon, Luxembourg, Malaysia, Mexico, Mongolia, Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Oman, Palestine, Peru, Philippines, Poland, Portugal, Qatar, Romania, Russian Federation, Saudi Arabia, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Syria, Tajikistan, Thailand, Turkmenistan, Ukraine, United Arab Emirates, Uzbekistan, Venezuela, Vietnam.
It is generally not possible to get an extension for the one week visa. There is a large stamp on it which specifically states "non-extendable". If you wish to stay for longer than a week, or you are not resident of one of the countries listed above, you will need to apply for a Tourist Visa before you arrive in Iran. You will be refused entry/visa if you have an Israeli stamp in your passport.
Extending a tourist visa is very easy and can be done in most cities. The lonely planet advises not to do this in Tehran as it is very time consuming. This is no longer the case and the process of extending a visa in Tehran can be done in just one hour (including tea offerings and being the object of curiosity in the office). Extending a visa a second time requires the passport to be sent to a department in Tehran (no matter where you extend your visa from) and thus takes longer time than doing this the first time.
Although it has become easier to get a Tourist Visa in recent years, whether the process takes one day or one month depends largely on your nationality and the staff of the embassy you are applying to. Your best bet is to apply to the Iranian embassy in your own country at least three months before your departure, but it is possible to obtain one while traveling in other countries, with varying degrees of difficulty. Women need to make sure they are wearing the Hijab or a head scarf in their submitted passport-sized photos.
Tourists can now receive their e-visa in less than 72 hours following confirmation of their application. Foreigners can access the Iranian Foreign Ministry website at '''www.electronicvisa.ir'''. After filling the application form and entering the required details, the user will be given a reference code to pursue his/her application. Once approved, applicants can choose to receive their visa either at Tehran_fs Imam Khomeini International Airport or at an official travel agency in their home country.[http://www.iran-daily.com/1387/3272/html/national.htm]
Transit visas are usually easier to get than tourist visas (usually for one or two weeks) and very useful for people traveling between Europe and South Asia. Various travel agents inside Iran help you obtaining visas, often through their home pages.
Chances are your bags won't be searched for '''salacious material''', but if found, it will be confiscated and will complicate your arrival. Don't try to bring in any magazines or books that might offend strict Islamic sensibilities or criticise the government. This has become much more loose in recent years.
As a notable exception, the beach resort of Kish Island, easily accessible from Dubai, does ''not'' require advance visas for visits of up to 14 days, including Americans. See the Kish Island article for details.
Dubai has scheduled flights to many Iranian cities, including Tehran, Shiraz, Isfahan, Kerman, Lar, Mashhad, Tabriz, Kish Island, Bandar Abbas, Bushher, Zahedan, and is therefore worth considering traveling to Iran from. Flights are operated by Iran Air, Emirates (for Tehran), Iran Aseman Airlines, Mahan Air and other Iranian companies. Fares are relatively cheap on Iranian carriers, ranging from $100 to $250 for a return trip depending on your destination and time of booking.
Iran Air and Mahan Air connect Tehran with some of the major European cities as well as destinations in Asia and Middle East. European companies landing in Tehran include BMI, Lufthansa, KLM, Alitalia, Turkish Airlines, Austrian Airlines and Aeroflot. Here are some of the Middle-Eastern airlines: Saudi Arabian Airlines, Emirates, Syrian Airlines and Egypt Air. So finding a flight to Iran should not be hard. Connections are also easily available via Manama, Bahrain using Gulf Air (Bahrain's national carrier). Additionally, Qatar airlines offers several flights to Iran and provides non-stop service to Doha from Washington DC (IAD).
In spite of economic sanctions the majority of Iranian based airlines did not have high level of incidents during recent years. However sanctions resuletd in inability to purchase new planes and the fleet of all airlines are old. Among Iranian based airlines Iran Air, Mahan Air and Aseman Airlines have been completly safe with no serious incidents during recent years. Due to safety issues flying with other Iranian based airlines is not recommended. Service and flying skill of Iranian pilots are fairly well known, BMI.
There are no direct flights from U.S.A at present due to sanctions, but you could travel via either Europe or Persian Gulf States. Non-stop flights from Dubai via JFK, IAD and Houston are good bets. Visitors from Australia or New Zealand can consider traveling via Dubai. You can also use direct flight from Caracas in Venezuela to Tehran via Damascus by Venezuela_Ls flag carrier Conviasa. You can use Iran Air or a Malaysian airline to Kuala Lumpur from any major city in Australia and changing from Malaysian airline to Iran air in Kuala Lumpur to Imam Khomeini airport in Tehran.
Many people drive to Iran via Turkey. This requires a Carnet De Passage unless you wish to pay import tax. A Carnet can be aquired from your local drivers association (such as the RAC in the UK). An international driver's license is highly recommend with translation into Farsi very beneficial.
The border is not busy at all, so when hitching you have to maily stick with the truck drivers and russian or farsi helps a lot here. Consider for yourself whether this is a safe option.
Starting in late 2007 and 2008; high quality semi-luxurious ferry service started between Kish Island and Abu Dhabi and Dubai. This service is of nominal fee (@ $50 USD) and the journey across one of the busiest stretches of water is sure to entertain. It is not currently known what the Customs and Entry Visa process is like using this service however as the boats do not enter via the airport. While the entry/exit process at the airport is fairly well established, it is unknown if the process is as well managed when entering via the docks. It is likely to be more chaotic and it is not know whether visas are issued on the spot as is the case at the airport. There are also ferries from Bandar Abbas to Dubai and Sharjah in UAE, and also ferries from Bushehr to Qatar, Kuwait and Bahrain.
Their services are frequent, reliable and safe are definitely worth considering to skip the large distances within Iran. Planes are aging, and maintenance and safety procedures are sometimes well below western standards, but it still remains the safest way to get around Iran, given the huge death toll on the roads.
Tupolev Tu-154 and other Russian planes are still used by some carriers (Iran Airtours notably). However, the odds are you will board a Shah-era B727 or some more recent Fokker, ATR or even Airbus A310 if you're lucky. Busy domestic routes are sometimes flown by B747SP, and the extra boarding and run-up time are worth the thrill of flying in one of the last of these shortened Jumbos still operated in the world. Saha Air, another internal Iranian airline, is also the last operator of the Boeing 707 in scheduled commercial passenger service. If you insist on flying, try getting some of the new planes leased from Russia.
Tickets can be bought at airports or travel agents dotted through the most major cities. '''Book early''' during the summer months of August and September since finding seats at short notice is virtually impossible. It is possible to pay extra to get onto a booked flight by bribing someone or paying them to take their seat on the plane. Some flights will auction off the last few seats to the highest bidder. For westerners, the conversion makes it easy to outbid everyone.
You can also find domestic tickets in some Iran Air offices abroad (Dubai for instance), but expect to pay a little more due to the change rate applied. Domestic tickets for other companies must be bought inside Iran.
There is little difference between the various bus companies, and most offer two '''classes''': 'lux' or 'Mercedes' (2nd class) and 'super' or 'Volvo' (1st class). First class buses are air-conditioned and you will be provided with a small snack during your trip, while second class services are more frequent. Given the affordability of first class tickets (for example IR 33,000 from Esfehan to Shiraz), there's little financial incentive to opt for the second class services, espcially in summer.
You can buy tickets from the bus terminals or ticket offices up to a week in advance, but you shouldn't have a problem finding a seat if you turn up to the terminal an hour or so before your intended departure time.
Most cities operate comprehensive '''local bus services''', but given the low cost of taxis and the difficulties of reading Persian-language signs (which, unlike road signs, do not have English counterparts) and route numbers, they are of little use to the casual traveller. If you're cash strapped and brave enough to try, however, remember that the buses are segregated. Men enter via the front or rear door and hand their ticket to the driver before taking a seat in the front half of the bus. Women and children should hand their ticket to the driver via the front doors (without actually getting on) before entering via the rear door to take a seat at the back. Tickets, usually around IR 200, are sold from booths near most bus stops.
Raja Passenger Trains [http://www.rajatrains.com] is the passenger rail system. Travelling by train through Iran is generally more comfortable and faster than speed-limited buses. Sleeper berths in overnight trains are especially good value as they allow you to get a good night's sleep while saving on a night's accommodation.
The rail network is comprised of three main trunks. The first stretches east to west across the north of the country linking the Turkish and Turkemenistan borders via Tabriz, Tehran and Mashhad. The second and third extend south of Tehran but split at Qom. One line connects to the Persian Gulf via Ahvaz and Arak, while the other traverses the country's centre linking Kashan, Yazd and Kerman.
Tickets can be bought from train stations up to one month before the date of departure, and it is wise to book at least a couple of days in advance during the peak domestic holiday months. First class tickets cost roughly twice the comparable bus fare.
Known as a "gatar" in Farsi; trains are probably the cheapest, safest, most reliable and easiest way to travel around the country. As an added benefit; you'll get to meet the people, sample food and see other tourists. You also avoid all the checkpoints will driving on the road. Trains are frequently delayed so leave plenty of time between destinations.
Official '''shared local taxis''' or '''Savari''', identifiable by some kind of orange paint marking, also ply the major roads of most cities. Their usually run straight lines between major sqaures and landmarks, and their set rates (between IR 1,000 and IR 6,500) are dictated by the local governments.
Hailing one of these taxis is an art you'll soon master. Stand on the side of the road with traffic flowing in your intended direction and flag down a passing cab. It will slow down fractionally, giving you about one second to shout your destination--pick a major nearby landmark instead of the full address--through the open passenger window. If the driver is intereseted, he'll slow down enough for you to negotiate the details.
If you're in a hurry, you can rent the taxi privately. Just shout the destination followed by the phrase ''dar bast'' (literally 'closed door') and the driver will almost be sure to stop. Negotiate the price before departure, but since you are paying for all the empty seats expect to pay five times the normal shared taxi fare.
You can also rent these taxis by the hour to visit a number of sites, but you can expect to pay from IR 40,000 to 70,000 per hour, depending on your bargaining skills.
Foreigners arriving in Iran with their own car will need to have a ''carnet de passage'' and a valid international drivers' license. Petrol stations can be found on the outskirts of all cities and towns and in car-filled Iran, a mechanic is never far away.
Do not underestimate the sheer chaos of Iran's '''traffic'''. The often ignored road rules state that you must drive on the right unless overtaking and give way to traffic coming on to a roundabout. Drivers frequently top 160 km/h (100 mph) on intercity highways. Laws requiring car occupants to wear seatbelts is are not always complied with.
Be aware also that motorcycles are sometimes seen transporting up to five people, sans helmets.
Avoid large rocks in the middle of highway. These are often placed there in an attempt to burst your tires. Afterward, a passerby will offer to replace your tire for $50 USD. This is of course a scam that occurs mostly at night time but has diminished due to aggressive policing.
You can also rent a car, usually for 20 - 50 dollars a day. Insurance and legal liability may make you think twice about renting a car, especially considering the fact that renting a car with a driver usually costs the same.
Many young Iranians in major cities, and almost certainly those working in international travel agents and high-end hotels will speak conversational English but basic Persian phrases will definitely come in handy, particularly in rural areas.
Road '''signs''' are often double signed in English, but few other signs are. As an extra challenge, most Persian signage uses an ornate calligraphic script that bears little resemblance to its typed form. This can make comparing typed words in phrase books--such as 'bank' and 'hotel'--to signs on buildings quite difficult. However it is still worth memorising the Persian script for a few key words such as restaurant, guesthouse, and hotel (see relevant sections below for the script).
Be aware that Kurdish and Azeri languages are also spoken in areas of large Kurdish and Azeri populations.
See also: Persian phrasebook
The '''rial''' (????) is the official currency of Iran, however to save time in a high-inflation economy prices are most commonly quoted in '''toman''' (?????). One toman is equal to ten rials. As of May 2009, the exchange rate is about IRR 9,807 per U.S. dollar.
Coins are issued in values of 50, 100, 250, and 500 rials with banknotes produced in 100, 200, 500, 1000, 2000, 5000, 10000, 20000, and 50000 rial denominations (Yes, the largest banknote has a value of ''five U.S. dollars''.).
As a general guide, written prices are given in rials and prices quoted in conversation are in tomans. To confuse you even further, shopkeepers will often omit the denomination of high prices, so you may be told a jar of coffee costs 2 tomans (meaning 2,000 tomans or IR 20,000) and that a fine rug will cost 3 tomans (meaning 3,000,000 tomans or IR 30,000,000).
Most travellers spend the first few days of their trip coming to grips with this mind-boggling system, and money changers on the border will often exploit this confusion to rip you off. Be careful, and if in doubt, always ask a shopkeeper or moneychanger if they are quoting a price in rials or tomans.
'''Travellers' cheques''' Although in theory central banks in provincial capitals are able to cash them, the paperwork and time involved make them impractical for tourist use.
'''ATMs''' exist in most cities, and there are point-of-sale devices in some larger stores for only Iranian customers, but only local bank cards and some cards from Arabian countries are accepted,
A better compromise are the '''private exchange offices''' (''sar?fi'') scattered around most large cities and major tourist centres. Although their rates are comparable to those of the banks, they are far quicker and, unlike their black market colleagues, they can be traced later on if something goes wrong.
The most widely-accepted currency is the US dollar ($), but euros(?) and UK Sterling Pound(__)are also widely used. Other currencies are harder to change. $100 unfolded notes attract the highest prices, and you will be quoted lower rates for any old or ripped notes.
'''Bargain''' ruthlessly when buying handcrafts, rugs or big ticket items and modestly when hailing private taxis. In most other aspects of life prices are fixed. '''Tipping''' is generally not expected, but locals will generally round up the bill in taxis and add around 10% in classy restaurants. Porters and bellboys will expect IR 2,000 - 3,000. A discreet gift of a few thousand ''tom?ns'' may help grease the wheels of Iranian society and serve to thank an extraordinarily helpful local, but ''bakhsheeh'' and bribing are not a major part of Iranian life.
You won't be able to escape the government-sanctioned '''dual pricing system''' that applies to accommodation and some tourist attactions in Iran; foreigners often pay up to ten times the price quoted to locals. However thanks to the government's recent commendable efforts to eliminate 'foreigner' prices from many tourist attractions, most notably Persepolis, low food and transport costs make Iran a cheap travel destination.
If you are prepared to stay in the cheapest guesthouses, travel only by bus and eat only at fast food outlets or ''kab?bis'', you can get by in Iran on a minimum of around IR 100,000 per day. If you want to eat a decent restaurant meal every now and then and stay in mid-range accommodation, a more realistic budget is around IR 250,000. If you want to eat and sleep in luxury and fly between major sights, you can easily chew through IR 700,000 per day.
The importation and consumption of '''alcohol''' is strictly banned. Penalties are severe. Religious minorities, however, are allowed to manufacture and consume alcohol, but not to sell or import it. '''Pork''' and pork products are forbidden and, like alcohol, their import is illegal.
The good news for travellers is that Iranian cuisine is superb. A wide range of influences from Central Asia, the Caucasus, Russia, Europe and the Middle East have created a diverse, relatively healthy range of dishes that focus on fresh produce and aromatic herbs. The bad news, however, is that Iranians prefer to eat at home, rather than in restaurants, so decent eateries are scarce and stick to a repetitive selection of dishes (mainly kebabs). An invitation to an Iranian home for dinner will be a definite highlight of your stay. When visiting an Iranian household for the first time or on a special occasion it is customary for Iranians to bring a '''small gift'''. Flowers, sweets or pastries are popular gift choices.
The rice and kebab dish '''''chelo kab?b''''' (??? ????) and its half-dozen variations are the most common (and often the only) items on Iranian restaurant menus. A grilled skewer of meat is served on a bed of fluffy rice, and accompanied by an array of condiments. You can add butter, grilled tomatoes and a sour spice known as ''som?gh'' to your rice, while some restaurants also provide a raw egg yolk. Raw onion and fresh basil are used to clear your palate between mouthfuls. Variations in ''kab?b'' dishes come from the meats they are served with. You will commonly see:
At home people most often eat rice with a '''thick stew''' (''khoresht'', ?????) containing a modest amount of meat. There are dozens of ''khoresht'' variations such as the sweet and sour ''fessenj?n'' made from ground walnuts and pomegranate syrup, ''ghormeh-sabzi'' based on fresh herbs, dried limes and kidney beans, ''gheimeh'' flavoured with split-peas and often garnished with French fries, and the sweet ''sib-?loo'' which uses apples and plums.
Hearty Iranian '''soups''' (''?sh'', ??) are meals in themselves. The most popular is the vegetarian ''?sh reshteh'' (?? ????) made from herbs, chickpeas and thick noodles, and garnished with yoghurt and fried onions.
Flat '''bread''' (''n?n'', ???) is another pillar of Iranian food. It is served at breakfast with herbs, feta cheese and a variety of jams, or as an accompaniment to meals. ''Sangak'' (????) is a dimpled variety cooked on a pebbled oven while ''lav?sh'' (????) is a thin and bland staple.
Most food outlets in Iran are either kab?bis or fast food outlets serving a standard fare of burgers, sandwiches, felafels or pizza (?????). A burger and a soft drink at a snack shop will fill you up at lunchtime for around IR 15,000, while pizzas start at IR 20,000.
Many teahouses (see '''Drink''' below) also serve traditional snacks and light meals. The most common of these is '''''?bgusht''''' (??????) a hot pot made from lamb, chickpeas and dried limes that is also known as ''dizi'', also the name of the dish in which its served. You will be given a bowl (the ''dizi'') containing the ''?bgusht'' and another, smaller one. Drain the broth into the smaller bowl and eat it like a soup with the bread provided. Then pound the remaining meat and vegetables into a paste with the pestle provided and eat with even more bread, pieces raw onion and wads of fresh herbs.
Iranian ''baghlava'' tends to be harder and more crystalline than its Turkish equivalent while the pistachio noughat called ''gaz'' (??) is an Isfahan speciality. ''Sohan'' is a rich pistachio brittle popular in Qom, and freshly-baked pastries are often taken as gifts to people's houses. ''Lav?shak'' fruit leathers are delicious fruit leathers made from dried plums.
Honey-saffron and pistachio are just two local flavours of ice cream, while ''f?loodeh'' (??????) is a deliciously refreshing sorbet made from rosewater and vermicelli noodles made from starch, served with lashings of lemon juice.
It's a safe bet that all food in Iran is '''halal''', but those seeking a '''kosher''' or other diet may have some trouble.
Tea houses (''ch?i kh?neh'', ??? ????) are favourite local haunt for men (and less commonly families) to drink tea and puff away on a water pipe.
Lovers of coffee (''ghahveh'', ????) have little to cheer in Iran but their choices have increased recently. Where available, it is served Turkish style, French coffee or espresso. Imported instant coffee (''nesc?ffe'', ??????) and instant Cappuccino are available also.
A wide variety of fruit juices (''?b miveh'', ?? ????) and drinks are available from shops and street vendors including cherry cordial (''sharbat ?lb?loo'', ???? ??????) and banana milkshakes (''shir moz'', ??? ???).
Soft drinks are widely available, both international makes such as Coca-Cola and Pepsi, and their brand names including 7up, Sprite, Fanta, etc., and local makes such as ''ZamZam''. Note that "Coca-Cola Original" and "Pepsi Original" etc. are NOT made of original The Coca-Cola Company's and PepsiCo's ingredients and taste exactly the same as ''ZamZam''.
''Doogh'' (???) is a sour drink made from yoghurt, salt, and water (sometimes gaseous) and sometimes flavoured with mint or other plants. It takes some getting used to, but will rehydrate you quickly in the heat of Iran's summer. It is the same as Turkish ''Ayran''.
Drinking '''alcohol''' is illegal, and if seen by police may be met with punishment. Of course, you will not find any place in Iran that openly sells alcohol. Drinking is, however, common among some of people especially during parties, weddings and is begrudgingly tolerated for use among the tiny Christian community provided it's not bought and sold for profit. An interesting item of trivia is that both wine and distilled spirits are believed to have first originated in Iran. Non-alcoholic drinks are widely available.
Iran has a large network of private, public, and state affiliated '''universities''' offering degrees in higher education. State-run universities of Iran are under the direct supervision of Iran's Ministry of Science, Research and Technology [http://www.msrt.gov.ir/] (for non-medical universities) and Ministry of Health and Medical Education [http://www.hbi.dmr.or.ir/] (for medical schools).
The maximum working week is 44 hours, with no more than eight hours any single day unless overtime compensation is provided. Overtime could not exceed four hours per day. Friday is the weekly day of rest. Overtime is payable at 40 per cent above the normal hourly wage. There are allowances for shift work equivalent to 10, 15 or 22.5 per cent of a worker's wage, depending on working shift (eg. evening, morning and night)
Workers are entitled to public holidays and a paid annual one-month leave. For workers with less than a year of employment, annual leaves are calculated in proportion to the actual length of service. Furthermore, every worker is entitled to take one full month of paid leave or one month of unpaid leave (if no leave is available) once during his or her working life in order to perform the pilgrimage to Mecca.
The employment of workers less than 15 years of age is prohibited. Young workers between 15 and 18 years of age must undergo a medical examination by the Social Security Organisation prior to commencing employment. Women are entitled to a 90-day maternity leave.
There is a minimum national wage applicable to each sector of activity fixed by the Supreme Labour Council. Workers and employers have the right to establish guild societies. Collective bargaining is allowed. Membership in the social security system for all employees is compulsory.
To have a valid '''contract''' concluded under the Law, the following provisions must be included:
In general, Iran is much safer than Westerners might expect. Most people are genuinely friendly and interested to know about you and your country, so leave aside your pre-conceptions and come with an open mind. Iran is still a relatively '''low-crime''' country, although thefts and muggings have been on the increase in recent years. Keep your wits about you, and take the usual precautions against pickpockets in crowded bazaars and buses.
In particular, the tourist center of '''Isfahan''' has had problems with muggings of foreigners in unlicensed taxis, and fake police making random checks of tourists' passports. Only use official taxis, and never allow 'officials' to make impromptu searches of your belongings.
Try not to travel in the '''southeastern''' area of Iran, meaning the province of Sistan va Baluchistan. The drug trade thrives based on smuggling heroin from Afghanistan. There is plenty of associated robbery, kidnapping and murder. Some cities as Zahedan, Zabol and Mirjaveh are particularly dangerous but that doesn't mean that every place in this area of Iran is dangerous. Chahbahar, which is close to the Pakistani border, is a very calm and friendly city.
'''Women travellers''' should not encounter any major problems when visiting Iran, but will undoubtedly be the subject of at least some unwanted attention. Perceptions of Western women among local men, fuelled largely by satellite television and ''Baywatch'', have led to the assumption that foreign women like to dress and act like Pamela Anderson. A stern look should be enough to deter amorous locals. Contrary to popular belief Iranian women differ little to those in the West, unless they follow extreme religious family lifestyles. In Tehran western clothing and formality is accepted but becomes more strict in rural areas.
'''Gay and lesbian travelers''' should also not encounter much trouble while visiting Iran, although discretion in public places is advised. Though there are many gays and lesbians in Iran (as there are everywhere), under the strict Sharia law, sodomy is punishable by death and sex by lesbians is punishable with lashes. This law, however, is rarely enforced and only applies to those who engage in such activities with Iranian citizens. While public displays of platonic affection between members of the same sex -- such as holding hands, arms draped over shoulders and kissing on the cheek -- are very common, foreign visitors who are gay or lesbian probably should be discreet about overtly romantic displays of affections considering the possibility of harassment by security forces. Many Iranians still have unfavourable views of same-sex relationships, but personal, violent attacks against homosexuals or homosexual couples are very rare.
Even though travellers may arrive with the image of a throng chanting "Death to America", this is a superficial media presentation of the Iranian people and your chances of facing '''anti-Western sentiment''' as a traveller are slim. Even hardline Iranians make a clear distinction between the Western governments they distrust and individual travelers who visit their country. Americans may receive the odd jibe about their government's policies, but usually nothing more serious than that. However, it is always best to err on the side of caution and avoid politically-oriented conversations, particularly in taxi cabs. In addition, a few Iranian-Americans have been detained recently and accused of espionage. These kind of incidents are rare, but still the broader implications are worth considering and bearing in mind.
Iranian '''traffic''' is horrendous. Drivers attack their art with equal amounts of aggression and incompetence and road rules are ignored enough to be non-discernable! Guidelines are lax and rarely followed. Take care when crossing the roads, and even greater care when driving on them - Iranian drivers tend to overtake along pavements and any section of the road where there is space. Watch out for '''''joobs''''' (???), the open storm water drains that shoulder every road and are easy to miss when walking in the dark.
There are a lot of military and other sensitive facilities in Iran. '''Photography''' near military and other government installations is strictly prohibited. Any transgression may result in detention and serious criminal charges, including espionage, which can carry the death penalty. Do not photograph any military object, jails, harbours, or telecommunication devices, airports or other objects and facilities which you suspect are military in nature. Be aware that this rule is taken very seriously in Iran.
Iran has state-of-the-art medical facilities in all its major cities. Apart from being up to date with your usual travel vaccinations (tetanus, polio, etc) no special preparation is needed for travel to Iran. For minor ailments, your hotel can contact an '''English-speaking''' doctor. In case of serious illness or accident, you can ask to be taken to a hospital with English-speaking staff (such as Mehrad Hospital, Day Hospital or Khatam ol-Anbia Hospital in Tehran). Make sure that your health insurance covers illness or accident on holidays since free medical service is not available in Iran.
'''Tap water''' is safe to drink in most of the country (and especially the cities), although you may find the chalkiness and taste off-putting in some areas (mainly Qom, Yazd, Hormozgan and Boushehr provinces). Bottled mineral water (''?b ma'dani'') is widely available. Also, on many streets and sites, public water fridges are installed to provide drinking water.
The liberalisation in Iran is going backward and the legally-enforced Islamic codes of conduct dictate many aspects of public life. Respecting the dozens of unspoken rules and regulations of Iranian life can be a daunting prospect for travellers, but don't be intimidated. As a foreigner you will be given leeway and it doesn't take long to acclimatise yourself.
The culture, like most others in the Middle East and Central Asia, has a strong tradition of hospitality. Guests are often treated extremely well. On the other hand, there is some insularity; any foreigner may be regarded with suspicion.
Iran is a country of over 2500 years of written history and organized civilization. It was conquered three times by the Greek, Arabs and Mongols. "Persia" is a name of Greek origin attributed to Iran; hence, "Persian" incorrectly refers to Iranian, as Iran has several different cultural groups, including Persian, Azeri, Kurdish, Mazandarani, etc.. Arab conquest was the most destructive of all as it banned public and official use of Parsi, the Iranian language, for about two centuries, and changed its alphabet. The ban resulted in the elimination of many basic Parsi words from the language.
Over 19th and 20th centuries, Iran was frequently subject to unfavorable political interference by Russian Empire and its successor the USSR, the UK and the USA. In 1980, Iraq under Saddam Hussain, supported by the global community, invaded Iran and caused the country to suffer a bloody eight-year war that drastically undermined its infrastructure and used up its resources.
Given the above, the Iranian people feel that history has frequently not been on their side and that the global community owes them respect and sensibility."'''the Persian Gulf'''" that the Iranians, authorities as well as general public, are extremely sensitive about and insist that this internationally recognized name be used for the body of water. Do not, under any circumstances, use the expressions "the Gulf" and especially "the Arabian Gulf"; otherwise, you may encounter oppositions of various types, official and unofficial.
In short, do not lump Iranians in as "Arabs" or as "Muslims". They are not Arab, they are Iranian or at least Persian. Also, they are ''mostly'' Shia Muslims.
The most common uniform consists of a '''head scarf''' (''roo-sari'', ?????) to conceal the head and neck, a formless, knee-length coat known as a ''roo-poosh'' (?????) and a '''long dress''' or pair of pants. In holy sites, you will be expected to dress even more modestly in a ''ch?dor'', a full-length swathe of black cloth designed to cloak everything but your face from view.
As a foreigner, a female traveller is officially expected to cover her hair and body excluding hands and feet. Usually more tolerance tends to be shown towards foreigners over the detail of the dress code than is the case for Iranian women. However, this does not include leaving one_fs hair fully uncovered under any circumstance. "Acceptable" outfits may include a long, loose dress or shirt worn over loose skirt or pants and a scarf in the summer, and a full-length woolen coat and scarf in the winter (calf-length is acceptable if worn over pants). All colors and modest designs are acceptable. Even when undertaking sporting activity in public (such as tennis or jogging), the dress code described above must be maintained.
'''Men''' also require to abide the following dress code: Short-sleeved shirts and t-shirts are acceptable for daily wear. '''Shorts''' and three-quarter length pants are only acceptable on the beach. Dress attire for men is similar to that in Europe. Neckties are better to be avoided if visiting one of the more conservative government bodies. Regarded by the authorities as a sign of American imperialism and a reminder of the pro-western kingdom era, wearing neckties by the authorities and office workers of state-run companies is forbidden. It is quite acceptable in the areas outside though it denotes indifference toward or opposition against state regulations and values. Jogging in tracksuits (but not shorts) is acceptable for men.
'''Greet people''' of the same sex with a handshake, three kisses or both, but avoid physical contact with people of the opposite sex in public. Place your hand over your heart and bow slightly to greet them instead. In private, only shake hands with a member of the opposite sex when he/ she holds out his/ her hand first.
Be careful of initiating '''political discussions'''. The relative political freedom of ex-President Mohammad Khatami's era is fading quickly and vocal opposition can be more trouble than its worth, even if your Iranian companions get engaged in it. It's best not to discuss topics such as the Israeli-Palestinian Conflict or the role of Islam in society regardless of what opinion you hold.
The prevalence of ''tarof'' often gives rise to different styles of negotiation than one would see in a European or North American culture. For example, a worker negotiating a salary might begin with a eulogy of the employer, followed by a lengthy bargaining session consisting entirely of indirect, '''polite''' language -- both parties are expected to understand the '''implied''' topic of discussion. It is quite common for an Iranian worker (even one employed in an Iranian neighborhood within Europe) to work unpaid for a week or two before the issue of wages is finally broached. Likewise, a shopkeeper may initially refuse to quote a price for an item, suggesting that it is worthless. ''Tarof'' obliges the customer to insist on paying, possibly several times, before a shopkeeper finally quotes a price and real negotiation can begin.
''Tarof'' also governs the rules of '''hospitality''': a host is obliged to offer anything a guest might want, and a guest is equally obliged to refuse it. This ritual may repeat itself several times before the host and guest finally determine whether the host's offer and the guest's refusal are real or simply polite. It is possible to ask someone not to ''tarof'' (''tarof nakonid''), but that raises new difficulties, since the request itself might be a devious type of ''tarof''. The best approach to handle Tarof is to be politely direct. Accept or reject as soon as you wish to, and be sure that Iranians will not be offended. Even though Tarof is purely about the art of civility, your engagement in Tarof might enter you into a vicious cycle of hypocrisy that may ruin your entire stay.
Some mosques, and most holy shrines, require women to be wearing a ''ch?dor'' before entering the complex. If you don't have one, there are sometimes kiosks by the door that lend or hire ''ch?dors''. It is better for men to wear long-sleeved shirts inside a mosque or shrine, though this is not mandatory.
Shoes are not worn within prayer areas of a mosque or shrine. Busier mosques have free shoe repositories where you trade your shoes for a token. Also try to avoid mosques on the holy day of Friday and don't photograph a mosque while prayers are taking place.
Holy shrines, like those in Mashad and Qom, are usually off limits to non-Muslims, although the surrounding complexes are fine. Always ask first before you enter a room you are unsure of.
When making international calls from Iran, the prefix to be dialled prior to country code is '''00'''.
Some websites are blocked based on words appearing in their URL, although savvy coffee net users may be able to show you how to circumvent these restrictions. You can expect to pay between IR 4,000 - IR 9,000 per hour and speeds range from acceptable in major cities, to the infuriatingly slow in small towns and rural areas. More recently, some facilities in major cities use broadband wireless or DSL connections. Most coffee net places will also have a DVD burner for downloading photos from digital cameras.
You will also find Internet connectivity in most middle-class Iranian homes.