Sana'a is the capital of Yemen, located in the Yemeni Mountains and generally the first destination for travellers to that country.
Understand
One of the oldest continuously-inhabited cities in the world (others being Jericho, Damascus and Aleppo), Sana'a is believed to have been founded by Shem, the son of Noah. As a result, the city has the unlikely nickname of "Sam City".
Get in
By plane
Sana'a International Airport is the hub for Yemenia, Yemen's national airline. It is also served by other airlines, such as Emirates, Turkish Air, Royal Jordanian Airlines, Egypt Airlines, Syrian airlines and Lufthansa. Also budgetairline, Air Arabia (www.airarabia.com) is flying to Sana'a from Sharjah, UAE. Sharjah is just 15 kilometers from Dubai.there are two flights weekly from london (lhr).Qatar Airways connects from another prominent middle east hub, Doha, accecible to all prominent international airlines.
By bus
Yemen has a few bus companies. Sanaa is connected by all major cities (Aden, Ta'izz, Marib, Sayun, etc) via bus. Perhaps the best buscompany in Yemen is Yemitco (Yemen Internationl Transport company). their buses are in good condition and fares are reasonably. Remenber to obtain travelpermit (tashrih) from tourism police in Ministery of Tourism building. Every town has military checkpoint when entering/leaving the town. You are going to be turn back without the permit. Tashirih is issued free of charge. when applying, you need your passport - no photos - and list of places you are going to visit and time period for the travel. Then you need to take many photocopies of your permit which you handle over in military checkpoints if they ask. It's useful also to take photocopies of your passport pages. Very convinient way for you and for your fellow passengers is to give a pile of travelpermit copies to busdriver and he can distribute them to those in concern. Tell aso your nationality to driver or military personel, they need to know. Note that there are also many traffic police checkpoints. They are not interested in your permit, only those with green uniforms and big guns are. This system is created for your safety, be patient.
Get around
Sana'a is a big city which, in common with many other developing-world capitals, is spreading in all directions at once. Visitors will almost certainly have to use taxis or hired cars to get around, as the street maps often leave much to be desired.
There are many "Dabaabs" that go on different routes around the city. They are vans that serve as public buses and are quite cheap. They have fixed routes and cost 15-30 riyals/ride.
Taxi to the airport from the centre should cost 1000 rials (August 2008), the other way you are asked 2000 Rials, but with a bit of haggling and perseverance you can get it down to 1200.
Cars are used a lot but they are mostly 4x4s or pick up trucks which or second hand.drivers tend to use the horn which is a normal thing in this beautiful congested city.
See
The Old City of Sana'a is World Heritage listed and makes a great place to see the uniquely Yemeni style of architecture - multiple-storey tower houses with the distinctive ''qamariya'' windows. Within the Old City is the Souk al-Milh, arguably one of the better souks in the Arabian Peninsula.
Do
Sana'a is a great place for people-watching and dancing in niowere. The unhurried pace of Yemeni life, coupled with the almost total lack of industrialisation seen in nearby countries, means that it's quite possible to pull up a chair in a coffee shop and watch the world go by for hours on end.
If you want an experience you can only get in Yemen: participate in a qat session. Qat (khat) is a mild narcotic chewed by most males in Yemen. They spend their afternoons hanging out, chewing the leaf, and conversing. A bag will cost no more than 5 dollars, and you can get "inferior" product for a cheaper price. Side effects are lack of appeitite and insomnia.
Learn
Yemen is a great place to study Arabic for several reasons: 1. Very few people amongst the general population can speak English beyond simple greetings. 2. The living cost is low so you can afford to live and study here for longer period of time. 3. There several excellent Arabic language institutes that offer both group and private courses with flexible schedules and reasonable prices.
The Yemen Language Center in Sana'a offers courses in Arabic and also helps with in-country travel arrangements.
Cheaper and more personalized options are [http://www.sialyemen.com Sanaa Institute of the Arabic Language (SIAL)], [http://www.calesyemen.com the Center for Arabic Language Studies (CALES)], and [http://www.saba-institute.com Saba Institute for the Arabic Language], all of which are located in the Old City.
Additionally, [http://www.yialarabic.com Yemen Institute for Arabic Language (YIAL)] a teacher owned institute that offers similar courses outside the Old City, although has a very good accommodation both in the Old City and in the institute itself. YIAL orgnises activities and trips with the cheapest price. It predominantly offers private courses, and at time of writing, offered the cheapest private tuition in Sana'a.
Work
Unless you have work lined up as an expat, work in Sana'a (and elsewhere in Yemen) will be very hard to come by. The majority of the locals sitting by the road will be waiting to be hired as manual labourers or domestic staff - in the latter role competing with guest workers from across the Red Sea. Those with good abilities in Arabic may be able to find work teaching English, however this will be informal and exceptionally temporary work.
Buy
Almost everywhere you look, you will have the chance to buy the curved dagger (jambiya) worn by local men. This purchase can be simply of the dagger and its accompanying sheath, however handmade belts and silver pouches are also for sale, with many tourists opting to purchase each item separately.
When purchasing a jambiya, remember first and foremost that it counts as a weapon for customs purposes, even though it is not used as one anymore. Secondly, bear in mind that the sheath is predominantly leather with either a base metal or (in more expensive models) silver working added. Traditionally, handles were made of animal horn or even ivory. While it is doubtful that the handles sold today as being made from either of these products are the real thing, a wooden or amber handle may be a better option.
If a real jambiya seems too much, there are also pendants and brooches commonly available in the shape of the knife and its sheath.
Necklaces and jewellery are also common souvenirs, and many of these will in fact be made of the semi-precious stones the souvenir sellers claim. Nevertheless, a healthy grain of salt should be added to any belief that one is actually purchasing a necklace of lapis lazuli or anything like that.
Contrary to guidebooks such as Lonely Planet, bargaining is expected and worthwhile. If you are with local guides, a common approach is to have them ask for the "Yemeni price", however any bargaining on the part of the tourist will result in discounts. Bear in mind, too, that what may seem an absurdly cheap price for an item in Western terms will still be a great return for many locals.
Yemen's currency, the rial (riyal), is subject to high inflation. As a result, many prices (particularly those quoted to white-skinned visitors) will be given in American dollars or even Euros. Any of these three currencies will be accepted by the seller, so ask for the cost in whichever currency you are carrying at the time. Discounts for paying in one currency or the other are not high enough to warrant only paying in local money (for example), but luck may be on your side.
Eat
Visitors should be careful when eating from street stands and the like, as the same warning which applies to tap water applies to poorly-prepared food. Salta is a popular Yemeni lunch dish that is served very hot.
Budget
Nearly all Yemeni food is budget. An average meal at a Sanaa restaurant will cost less than 2 dollars. Chicken is ubiquitous. A tuna steak served with rice costs 150-200 riyals.
Al Shamiri Plaza hotel (next to Central bank of Yemen on Ali Abdull Mugni St.) has a rooftop restaurant on 8th floor which offers great views over old and new part of Sanaa. Menu is also in English and prices are very reasonable.
Mid-range
Two words: '''Hadda Street'''. That is where the more "upscale" restaurants are located. If you want a clean environment with a larger range of food, this is where you should go.
Merkato Ethiopian Food, Across from Al-Hudda grocery.
Karmouche Pizza, Iran street.
Al-Hamra. Popular fast food place.
Pizza Hut, Sabeen Street.
KFC, Hadda Road.
Khaleej Restaurant (popular traditional place)
Shalal Wadibana, Tahrir street.
Splurge
The five star hotels (Sheraton and Movenpick) have decent, pricey western food (and beer!).
In the Haddah neighborhood you will find a number of more expensive restaurants like Grill 101 restaurant, Deja vu restaurant and coffee shop (pricey), Zorba's coffeeshop (Greek) and Mehraja(indian food). Near the Sumaila Hari Supermarket you will find the coffeetraders where you can get a good cup of latte or cappuccino at Starbucks prices and at the same time check your mail over their wireless internet connection.
Drink
As in the rest of the country, the tap water should be '''avoided at all costs'''. Bottled water, both chilled and at room temperature, is readily available and very cheap - as is the normal range of juices and softdrinks.
Liquor, dancing, and prostitutes are available at the Russian club. Liquor (dunno about the other two) is available at the Movenpick.
Nice tea and coffee house is "Friends Kafeteria" in Al-Tahrir area, Mocka Intersection. Here you can involve yourself into interesting conversations with Yemeni men. Also food is availabe. It looks like this place never closes down.
Sleep
Budget
The [http://arabiafelix.free.fr/ Arabia Felix Hotel]in Old Sana'a is a cheap way to get a feel for the old city. Rooms are basic but the charm is in staying in an authentic old Yemeni townhouse. Breakfast and the courtyard garden are excellent. Prices weigh in at a hefty USD25 for a double room. Other hotels in the old town include the Daoud (David) and the Talha. All three hotels offer excellent views over the old town.
Good option to stay is new part of Sana'a. It's walking distance to Old part of town but hotels offer better value to money. Around Tahrir area there are about 10 hotels to choose, ranging from five star Taj Sheba hotel to no-star hotels. recommended are 2 Wadi Hadramout hotels. More expensive Wadi Hadramout hotel is cross the main road from Tahrir Square, other more economical is near Taj Sheba hotel at Ali Abdulmogny Street. There double room with bathroom and tv costs about 2000 Rials (usd 10). Staff is very helpful and friendly and some speak english.
Mid-range
Mercure Sanaa Al Saeed
Sheraton Sanaa Hotel
Sam City Hotel; located right in the old city. Staff make an effort to look after you and a great deal at US$25/35 per night. al-mamoon@y.net.ye
Shammr Hotel and Suites (http://www.shammrhotel.com) is the ideal choice both for business travellers and holiday-makers. This well-equipped, cosy, and clean (even by European standards) hotel is located in Hadda district, only 10 minutes from the center. 24-hour catering, excellent breakfast at any time of the day, gym, and massage. Rooms are spacious and prices are reasonable for a four-star hotel. Super friendly staff makes it a pleasure to stay there.
Splurge
Movenpick Hotel
- A large hotel with pool outside the city center. Great view and probably one of the safest hotels in Sanaa.
Sheraton Hotel
Hilton Hotel
Plaza Hotel
Contact
Stay safe
Sana'a itself is relatively safe, in contrast to some other parts of Yemen.
Travellers should, however, take care particularly in the Old City as the streets are poorly signposted and unwary visitors will often find themselves in someone's courtyard. The city can also get very crowded, although pickpocketing is rare (possibly due to the weakness of the local currency).<br>
Maps of Yemen tend to have details of the city, but (as with road maps in the country) they are unreliable. If at all possible, visitors should find themselves a local guide. Security escorts are probably unneccessary, although the situation can change rapidly.
Gun crime is very normal as many men hold or have a gun for traditional reasons.
Cope
Get out
The awe-inspiring [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Imam_Yahya Dar Al-Hajr] (often known as the Rock Palace) is located in Wadi Dahr roughly 30 minutes from the city centre and makes a very easy afternoon's excursion. You will be able to take one of the local taxis. A full day excursion can take you to Thulla, Kawkaban and Shibam (not the Hadramout version but the Amran version) which is approximately 55 km from the outskirts of Sana'a. It is possible to stay overnight in Kawkaban, although there are only two hotels (more like full-board guesthouses as there are no restaurants). Accommodation and meals costs about 7 euros.