'''Dushanbe''' is the capital of Tajikistan.
Get in
For Westerners there are only a few ways to fly into Dushanbe. It is possible to transit Moscow - Domodedovo Airport, which has daily flights to Dushanbe, without a visa if you have no checked luggage, otherwise a transit visa is required (flight is on Domodedovo Airlines). There is also twice a week a flight from Istanbul - Ataturk on Turkish Airlines. If you have checked in luggage you need a transit visa because the airlines will not transfer it for you. For that reason you have to collect the luggage yourself and check it in for your final flight. In order to collect it you have to pass passport control for which you need a visa. These policies are subject to change without a notice. Check with your airline(s) to find out whether they currently transfer luggage.
Turkish airlines fly 2 or 3 times per week from Turkey. Aussie, Brits, and such countries can apply for a visa at the very small airport in Dushanbe. Don't loose your "beeline travel slip"; the luggage x-ray machines are very poor and they pay little attention to the screens. Watch the kids when you leave the airport they will offer to take your bag to the car and start to pull it off you. though not with intentions of stealing, just wanting to help and gain a tip.
Latvia's national airline airBaltic will operate flights Riga-Dushanbe as of June 1, 2009. airBaltic will be first EU carrier to fly to Tajikistan. Riga is hub between West and East, so check available connections at airline's website. airBaltic operates flights to 57 destinations in Europe, Scandinavia, CIS and Central Asia.
Get around
Very few streets in Dushanbe have names, so it is important to know landmarks and how to navigate with them. Every cab driver knows the airport, Somoni statue, and opera-ballet, but beyond that, it is a toss-up. It is essential to know "straight ahead," "to the left," and "to the right" in Russian or Tajik.
Turkish airlines flies 2 or 3 times per week from Turkey. Aussie, Brits, and such countries can apply for a visa at the very small airport in Dushanbe. There is a consulate there; be sure to bring 2 passport photos, and know the person's address in which you are staying. They think everyone is suss so do not take it to heart when in the consulate! And do not loose your "beeline travel slip" (to repeat ourselves).
Dushanbe is an interesting city, but only for a few days. The center is basically one long street, with a few other main streets intersecting it. Other than a few museums and monuments, there is not much here. The nightlife is terrible. There are three main clubs: Port Said, Dior, and Vastan (all on or near Rudaki Street). The clubs are pretty bad and attract bad music, prostitutes, and are mostly filled with men. If a man goes out with a Tajik women, he will be expected to pay for her (and her friends).
See
'''Massive Statue of Somoni''': This statue commemorates the one for whom the currency is named. It is located on Prospekt Aiani. Apparently, the crown is 10 kilograms of tajik gold. Beware: the police at the bottom may ask for money.
'''Victory Park''': Hike to the top for a seasonal tiki-themed beer garden offering views of the city. The truly brave can take the rickety gondola. Turn left off of Rudaki at the TSUM and pass the beer factory.
'''Fort Hissar''': Barter with a taxi to drive you 10 km out of town to this rebuilt 13th century fort and madrassa. It was destroyed by Soviet troops in their hunt for Enver Pasha[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Enver_Pasha]. Entrance fees are 1 to 3 somoni.
Rudaki statue . Recently opened for the Shanghai summit, the new park on Rudaki Avenue has a huge statue of Rudaki, a new government palace, and enough fountains to drain the whole of Dushanbe. Go at night to see the lights.
Do
There is not much "to do" in Dushanbe. You can visit the '''Museum of Antiquities''' on the main square. It is quite old fashioned, and include a number of exhibits that detail the country's history.
Buy
Eat
'''Delhi Darbar''': The most well-known of three local Indian restaurants serves excellent butter chicken and spinach. It also offers private "family rooms." It is located on Rudaki near the Pedagogical Institute.
'''Merve''': Happening, casual Turkish cafeteria always packed with students and young locals. Have several choices in mind, as they never ever have everything on the menu, no matter how basic. It also serves an authentic Turkish breakfast. It is located on Rudaki next to Orima supermarket.
'''Salsa''': The only Ecuadorian restaurant for hundreds of miles. It is a reasonable imitation of Latin cuisine and popular with Europeans. It is located just off the north end of Rudaki near Starry Night (Zvezdnaya Noch) billiards.
'''Tiflis''': One of two Georgian restaurants in the city with some of the best meat dishes in the city (and a substantial wine list). It is located behind the opera-ballet, across the park.
'''Georgia Cafe''': the other Georgian restaurant, located about a block north of the Opera Square on Rudaki Avenue. It has simple and tasty dishes, good cheap house wine, and a nice friendly atmosphere. Be sure to either book or come early, as the seats go fast.
'''La Grande Dame''': The only French Restaurant in town. It serves great steaks and other food at a hefty price. It is, however, popular with consultants with hefty ''per diems''. The place offers a good taste of the West for those missing their homes.
Kellers. A nice, well-hidden restaurant that serves European and Chinese style food (although worryingly the lines between the two are often blurred). Also, the home made beer (3 som.) is well worth trying. It is located on left side of Somoni street near Rudaki end, at the side of a block of flats.
Drink
'''Irish Pub''': A brand-new, Irish pub serving Guiness in a can with Irish charm (considering this is Southern Asia). To find it, go to the Gurminj museum, head south to the corner and turn left.
Sleep
Stay Safe
In general, Dushanbe is a safe. Robberies and street crime does occur -- even in broad daylight -- although this is rare. The police force is almost totally ineffective, which can lead to criminals acting without much fear of consequence. People keep to themselves; they are very private; you cannot even ask someone the time. Although some are friendly, people (both Russians and Tajiks) can be quite rude and unhelpful.
If you are a woman, be careful. Be prepared for harassment, not just verbally. Be prepared for a lot of staring from large groups of men and even "groping" on public transport (just to get thrills of touching ones skirt or something). Take care as a woman!
Furthermore, do not travel alone at night ''as a male''; street gangs are common.
Stay Healthy
Never drink the water from the tap, nor use the water to brush your teeth. Failure to do this will leave you with frequent toilet visits and cramping belly pains that will cause lack of sleep! Always wash your hands after being on the street. Always wash fresh produce, especially when bought from the local bazaar. Medical facilities are very poor and unhygienic with primitive medical tools.
Get out