'''Dakar''' is the capital of Senegal.

Understand

The Senegalese are very proud of their reputation for "teranga" -- hospitality. Locals are extremely friendly and helpful, but as anywhere else, watch out for scams.

Get in

Dakar is a major West African hub, so there are lots of flights coming from and going to Europe, North America and other African cities. Be prepared to arrive and leave at a godforsaken time of the night - many flights come in at around 2 and leave at around 4 AM.

By plane

From South Africa: SAA (Johannesburg), Delta (Johannesburg), Delta (Cape Town begins June 3, 2008 pending government approval)

From Europe: Air France (Paris-CDG), TAP Air Portugal (Lisbon), Air Senegal (Paris Orly, Marseille, Milan), Alitalia (Milan), Iberia (Madrid, Las Palmas), SN Brussels (Brussels)

From Africa: TACV Cabo Verde (Praia and Bissau), Royal Air Maroc (Casablanca), Air Ivoire (Abidjan), Ethiopian (Addis Ababa via Lome and Abidjan or via Ndjamena), Kenya Airways (Nairobi via Bamako), Virgin Nigeria (Lagos), SN Brussels (Banjul), Delta (Nairobi begins on June 3, 2008), Air Senegal (Abidjan, Accra, Bamako, Banjul, Bissau, Cap Skirring, Casablanca, Conakry, Cotonou, Gran Canaria, Lome, Niamey, Nouakchott, Ouagadougou, Praia, St. Louis, Tambacouanda, Zigunchor), Tunisair (Tunis), Air Algerie (Algiers), Air Mali International (Bamako), Air Mauritanie (Nouakchott), Bellview Airlines (Lagos)

From North America: SAA (Washington-Dulles and New York-JFK), Delta (Atlanta), Delta (New York-JFK begins June 3, 2008 pending government approval)

By rail

A railway connects Dakar and Koulikoro in Mali. It stops at many cities in Senegal, including Thies. Stops in Mali include Kayes and Bamako. More information on ausenegal [http://www.ausenegal.com/transport/rail.htm].

By road

The main method of travel around the country is by ''sept places'' (from French, "seven seats," literally questionable station wagons in which they will pack seven people so that you are basically sitting on the next person's lap throughout the journey). You can also come with a group and rent out an entire ''sept place'', but this will be expensive. If you are obviously a tourist, they WILL try to rip you off, so make sure to set a price before you agree to a driver. There are set prices to often-travelled locations. The main ''sept place'' station in Dakar is '''Gare Routieres de Pompiers'''. Watch out for pickpockets!

Get around

  • '''Taxis'''. Cheap and safe and everywhere. Just don't mind the broken windshields. All taxi fares are negotiated beforehand and will require bargaining. If you're not from Senegal, you will probably have an outrageous price proposed, so check with locals before to get an idea of what they pay, in order to know what you will be able to get.
  • '''Buses'''. The Dakar bus system, known as Dakar Demm Dikk (Dakar coming and going), is fairly dependable. Fares are 150 CFA, and there are no transfer. Unfortunately, for newcomers, there's not much in the way of a map of the bus system, so you'll have to figure it out on your own. The number 10 bus runs along the Corniche de l'Ouest and turns into the suburbs at Rue Aime Cesaire.
  • '''Cars Rapides'''. These are the usually blue and yellow mini-buses that careen through Dakar and some of Senegal's other cities. There are somewhat fixed rates for certain distances, but you need to check with a Senegalese beforehand. To find out where one is going, flag it down and shout out your destination at the apprenti, the boy in charge of collecting fares who hangs out the back. If she shouts back at you the destination you want, signal it to stop and hop aboard. To stop, bang loudly on the side of the bus or signal to the apprenti you want off. Apprenti's don't always speak French, so be prepared to communicate otherwise if you do not speak Wolof.
  • See

  • Check out the incredibly rich '''musical scene'''.
  • '''Ile de Goree''', or Goree Island, was the location where slaves were transferred to slave ships headed to the Americas. The island has interesting colonial architecture including the landmark "House of Slaves" museum.
  • Buy

  • '''Islam Couture/ Embroidery''' Dakar has some amazing (and amazingly expensive) stores specialised in haute-couture, embroidered traditional west African Muslim clothes.
  • '''Marche Sandaga''' Madness. A decrepit concrete structure that has - despite appearance - three levels of activity: meat and vegetable stalls on the main floor, fish in the basement dungeon and - surprise - restaurant stalls on the roof. You will need to brave the crumpled stairs and step around guys cleaning dead chicken to make it up. Around the market building a sprawling network of stalls offer everything from copied music CDs, Manchester United shirts, electronic gadgets and islamic books - but be aware the hawkers can be ''very'' aggressive. The place is also famous for pickpockets, so take only the amount of money you need and keep it in a safe place.
  • '''Marche HLM''' A smaller market geared primarily towards fabric vendors, Marche HLM is slightly less crazy than Sandaga. Hundreds of options for fabric that you can buy and then get tailored into perfectly fitting traditional Senegalese wear (if you will be in Dakar for awhile, ask a Senegalese person who his or her tailor is, and go there. A little less convenient for travellers who will only be staying a week). Most vendors won't sell less than 3 to 6 meters of fabric. A reasonable price is 1000CFA/meter.
  • '''Marche Kermel''', near the city centre.
  • '''Soumbedioune''', a popular evening fish market
  • Eat

  • '''La Fourchette''' Stylish place serving international cuisine (Mexican, Japanese, Moroccan, etc.) at moderate prices. Next to Marche Kermel.
  • '''Glacier/ Nice Cream:''' City centre: Over 30 flavours of the best ice cream you will ever eat.
  • '''Hotel de l'Independance''' Eat here for the magnificent views from the restaurant on 16th floor.
  • '''Chez Ndeye / Ker Ndeye''' (On a street parallel to Ponty) Inexpensive. Authentic Senegalese food. Besides the lovely Thiebou Dien, the place features home-made Tamarind juice. Try to catch the excellent Kora player.
  • '''Cafe de Rome''' (City center) Welcome to Cafe du Rome, authentic French food (as a matter of fact, you ARE in France), from oysters to steak tartar, and the famous Sole Meuniere that doesn't disappoint. It is pricey by Dakar standards, but the food is great.
  • '''Patisserie Laetitia''' Walking along the street of Cafe du Rome towards La Corniche (the sea) - away from the center - two blocks up on your right hand side, you find the ultimate place for breakfast in Dakar. No, they don't serve eggs, bacon or sausage, but fresh, slightly warm croissants, pain au chocolat, and (my personal favourite) pain au raisins. The coffee is good and the juices freshly squeezed. Sit in the little room to the right of the counter, it features the most amazing orange and yellow lamps and little triangular tables with stools to sit on. You will be surrounded by locals in beautiful Muslim outfits, reading the paper and discussing the latest news. What a great place. In fact, a reason to move to Dakar.
  • '''Hotel Farid/ Lebanese Restaurant''' Drink a gigantic Arrak (made from anis) as an aperitif and then order the 20 Mezze.
  • '''Le Jardin Thailandais''' Huge menu of delicious Thai food, great atmosphere. A little pricey, but worth it. Across the street from UCAD (Universite Cheikh Anta Diop) off of Avenue Cheikh Anta Diop/Rue de Ouakam. After eating, check out the jazz club across the street!
  • '''Lalibela''' Little Ethiopian restaurant with a fantastic rooftop dining area. The ambiance alone would be worth coming here, but luckily the food is great too. A little difficult to find -- between the VDN and Avenue Cheikh Anta Diop at the intersection with the Mobil-On-The-Run and la Poste Fann.
  • '''Centre Culturel Francais''' [http://www.institutfr-dakar.org] Ask for the local food they serve for lunch (not on the menu) during the week. On weekends you must ask nicely to convince them to let you try what they prepare for the staff.
  • '''Peanuts''': The roasted peanuts you can buy on the street or get with your order of beer in any bar are delicious. These nuts are not greasy at all and have just the right amount of salt - and sometimes they are still slightly warm from being roasted.
  • '''Other Street Food''': You can find all sorts of street food practically anywhere in Dakar. Apart from peanuts, there are other nuts, lots of fruit, and other special Senegalese treats and snacks. There are also a ton of sandwich shops and little bread stands, where you can get egg sandwiches or quick and cheap food.
  • '''Ali Baba''': Greasy Spoon where you can get cheap Lebanese food. Good falafel sandwiches with french fries and lots of tahina sauce, shwarma, kebab and all sorts of other delicious (also western) snacks. Find it halfway up Ave. Pompidou.
  • Drink

    '''Gazelle''' is the local favourite beer - it comes in serious bottles, or Flag, which is stronger and more expensive.

  • '''Le Hanoi''' You can't go wrong with a bar that has palm trees painted on one wall, a French military guy (opinions differ if he was secret service or just a regular drunk) behind the bar who insists the black waitress is his "little sister".
  • '''Hotel de l'Independance''' Take the elevator to the 16th floor of the hotel on Place de l'Independance, order your drink at the bar, and walk up to the rooftop 17th open air deck and enjoy beautiful 360 degree views of Dakar. You can also dine in the restaurant on the 16th floor, with the same views.
  • '''Le Viking''' On the Ponty, in the midst of Sandaga madness, Le Viking is a popular spot for expats and tourists. Pricey drinks, but great atmosphere. Live music on weekend nights!
  • Sleep

  • Oun Deux Tua. 425 Par do Me. o right Go Left Go right and you're there. 47-581-902. Very good restaurant. Bravo with the food. We want YOU to go to Oun Deux Tua.

    Budget

  • '''Auberge Poulagou''' - Yoff Tonghor Plage. +221 8202347 http://www.poulagou.ch
  • Le Poulagou is a nice small hotel, 2 kilomters from the airport. Ideal for the first days in Senegal and to escape the madness of Dakar. Free Internet access. Poulagou is advised by most of the tourist guides. Good report quality/price
  • '''Hotel Oceanic''' - 9, rue de Thann. +221 822-2044 (fax +221 821.5228)[http://www.hoteloceanicdakar.com/] - Oceanic is a budget option for around 30 euro (roomrate). Centrally located. Rooms and beds are (a bit) run down but the bathroom is OK. Good breakfast at neighbouring self-service restaurant. See videoclip on internet.
  • '''Hotel Farid''' - 51, rue Vincens. +221 33 823 6123, email:hotelfarid@orange.sn.
  • Central location. Rooms with AC,Tv,Minibar,Locker safe and Free Internet Access. Good quality/price.

    Mid range

  • '''Al Afifa Hotel''' (City Center) Clean air-conditioned rooms at reasonable prices. Not budget though!
  • '''Sofitel Teranga''' - Between Independent Square and the Atlantic Ocean (City center). Very good setting. It is a good (although not cheap!) starter for medium budget travellers to acclimate in Senegal. Comfortable rooms, cosy atmosphere. Roomrate round 100 euro. Breakfast is 15 euro and splendid!
  • Stay Safe

    Crime in Dakar is relatively high; crime against tourists is common, even around Place de l'Independance. Use common sense: women should not walk around alone after dark. Watch your pockets in crowded places, such as Sandaga, and keep a close eye on your belongings. There are many different scams to get money from tourists, so be wary. Avoid the beaches at night. Try not to wear any outwardly expensive items of clothing or jewelry. Overall, though, the Senegalese are an incredibly friendly and hospitable people and you will meet many people who are genuinely interested in talking to you.

    The Senegalese people are in no way violent. The main crime that they suffer from is due to their lack of mental health. Some people turn to stealing so that they can drink alcoholic beverages and eat. Senegal is one of the most governmentally stable countries on the continent of Africa. They have a good police force, many of what speak English.

    Cope

    In Dakar, you will find many beggars, usually handicapped people or young children (called "talibes"). This can be disconcerting for some tourists at first, and the desire to give money is difficult to overcome. However, there are 300,000 talibes in Dakar, and so it's important to be aware that this can be an uncomfortable situation. One way to handle it is with a simple, polite "ba beneen yoon" ("next time" in Wolof). They may be persistent, but be firm without being rude. Another option is to give the talibes food.

    Get out

    Travelling outside of Dakar can be manic and harrowing, but is definitely worth it.

  • Saint-Louis — The old French capital of Senegal, St. Louis is on the northern border, near Mauritania, and has fantastic colonial architecture and nightlife. Popular destination for travellers. Near many bird parks.
  • Sine Saloum Delta — Just north of the border with the Gambia, the Delta has amazing mangrove forests that you can tour by pirogue (essentially a motored canoe). Negotiate a fair price with a guide, and remember that once you get into the Delta, it's difficult and expensive to get around any way besides by pirogue.
  • Casamance — The southernmost region of Senegal, the Casamance boasts some of the most spectacular beaches and friendliest people in the country. The capital is Ziguinchor -- nice to visit but not much to do. Cap Skirring is the main tourist destination, and there are many hostels as well as a Club Med ("Club Merde" as the locals call it). The Casamance has been involved in a secessionist conflict for years; though the warring factions do not purposely attack tourists, there have been tourist deaths. The overnight ferry from Dakar to Ziguinchor is affordable and comfortable.
  • * Details on the ferry: The boat leaves from Dakar on Tuesdays and Fridays at 8pm and from Zig on Thursdays and Sundays at 3pm, arriving 15-17 hours later. Office hours in Dakar are M-Friday, business hours with a break for lunch. To purchase tickets, you must go to either the port in Dakar or the one in Zig. You cannot buy tickets online, or over the phone. Bring your passport to purchase. Advance purchase is advised, if possible, but not always necessary. Price for a couchette in a two person room is 30,500 and for a four person room is 28,500. Both include private bath and breakfast. Phone # for the Dakar ticket office is +221 33 821 29 00. They will be able to give you information on availability, prices, and office hours.
  • Touba — Senegal's religious center, Touba makes a great day trip. Unfortunately, non-Muslims are no longer allowed inside the actual mosque, which is enormous. Women will be asked to wear long skirts and cover their heads to tour the grounds.