'''Wenchuan''' (?__) is a small town in Sichuan_fs Aba Tibetan-Qiang Autonomous Prefecture, which straddles the confluence of the Min and Zagunao Rivers. Wenchuan county is one of only 4 counties that are the main location of China_fs Qiang (__) ethnic group ? the others being Lixian, Maoxian and Beichuan.

Understand

Being on the main route from Chengdu to Jiuzhaigou National Park, Wenchuan has until recently been a _epassing through_f place where tourist groups stop off for meals or visit the traditional Qiang village of Taoping (____) in neighbouring Lixian county. However, this whole Qiang area is gradually becoming a destination in its own right, being much more accessible from Chengdu for a long week-end, and will become more so once the new road from Chengdu is completed. It is less crowded than the more well-known destinations in Ngawa Prefecture and has some good _eoff-the-beaten-track_f areas to explore. Wenchuan is also known as one of the most important giant panda reservations located in the south-western China.

History

The Qiang people have traditionally lived between the Tibetans to the north and the Han to the south and for centuries Wenchuan has been a place where ethnic groups overlap. The remains of defensive walls from the Three Kingdoms period (220-265 AD) and from the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) are still visible on the hills above the town. Further back in the mists of history, legend has it that Yu the Great, one of China_fs famous ancestors, was born in this area, and a temple in his honour is situated near the Three Kingdoms wall remains. Other evidence of inter-ethnic encounters are the striking watchtowers and fortress-like style of some of the local Qiang villages, built high up on the mountain tops, e.g. the three towers of Buwa village which can be seen high above Wenchuan.

Get in

Wenchuan is easily accessible by bus from Chengdu. Buses coming down from Jiuzhaigou/Songpan and from Hongyuan/Ma_ferkang to Chengdu also stop in Wenchuan. All Chengdu buses depart from/arrive in Chadianzi bus station in the west of Chengdu. At the moment (April 2008) the journey is about 3? hours and should be shorter once the new road is completed. The ticket price is about 40 RMB and there are several buses a day. Unfortunately they don_ft travel on the toll-road from Dujianyan to Chengdu, which slows the journey. If you want to do take the toll road ? get a bus from Wenchuan to Dujiangyan (c.21 RMB) and then get the toll-road bus (gaosu lu) to Chengdu. These are very frequent and leave from the main bus station in Dujiangyan, which is where the Wenchuan-Dujiangyan bus drops you.

Get around

Unless you have your own vehicle you will need to hire taxis or minivans for local travel, although there are local walks directly out from Wenchuan. Taxis out to the tourist villages of Taoping and Luobozhai should be about 40-60Y. Minivans can be hired for around the same price unless you find one with locals already heading to your destination, then the price should be about 5Y per person. A Chinese map of Aba Prefecture can be bought at the small shop inside the bus station (4.5Y).

See

The Qiang villages and natural scenery are the biggest draws of the area.

'''Luobozhai village''' (?_m__), which is about 20 minutes by hired van or taxi from Wenchuan towards Songpan/Jiuzhigou(c.60 RMB), is in a marvellous location on a small plateau near the top of a mountain. It has a stunning view of the main Min River valley. There is an entrance fee of 60 RMB which is very overpriced for local Chinese, but worth it for tourists and helpful for the local economy.

'''Taoping village''' (____) is in Lixian rather than Wenchuan county, but is roughly the same distance as Luobozhai, going north on the Ma'erkang/Hongyuan road, and well worth a visit (also 60Y entrance fee). It has 3 towers and is very fortress-like with an inner maze of winding alleyways and an underground water system to sustain them in times of siege. There is a small museum in the corner of the main square. Many tourists come in tour groups which just stop for an hour, _edo the villages_f and then move on. This means the countryside beyond the villages is often quiet and uncrowded, with locals just going about their daily work in the fields.

'''Yanmen village''' and beauty spot is about 15 minutes by taxi/minivan from Wenchuan on the road north to Songpan/Jiuzhaigou. This has tea houses, good walks and places to picnic.

'''Qi Pan Gou''' Travelling south about 15 minutes from Wenchuan on the Chengdu road, there is a village called Qi Pan Gou and a left turn takes you up an unsurfaced road along a stream to a good walking area.

'''Qiangfeng Village.''' Further south and across a plank suspension bridge on the right of the main Chengdu road you can walk up to the Qiang village of Qiangfeng. There were plans to develop this as a tourist village but they never really took off so it is less _etouristy_f than Taoping and Luobozhai.

'''Buwa Village''' high up on the mountains with its three watchtowers is visible from the main street of Wenchuan. If you can make it to Buwa, it's worth going further up to the plateau area at the top.

Do

Wenchuan is not very tourist-orientated as a town but there are plenty of restaurants and shops, a couple of vegetable markets, and a pleasant small-town atmosphere. In the evening some of the locals do Qiang and Tibetan dancing outside the biggest supermarket on the main street. It is a good centre to stay in and then go out to the neighbouring villages and valleys. If you stay in Luobozhai or Taoping, they sometimes have traditional Qiang dancing and singing in the evenings, with a bonfire, and ? if visitors orders it ? a goat-roast. This is more frequent at week-ends and on national or Qiang holidays.

The mountains are steep around Wenchuan, with narrow valleys and rushing streams. These valleys are not always easily visible from the main road but some of them are well worth exploring. Because Taoping gets much of the tourist traffic, many other villages are definitely still off the beaten track. Longxi (?__) valley is about 20 minutes by minivan or taxi from Wenchuan and is a right turn across a narrow bridge a few kilometres before Taoping. It is an attractive valley and if you make the 3 hour trek along the Longxi road to the village of A_fer, the landscape changes from steep mountain to open walking country and virgin forest. One or two small groups of intrepid explorers have camped here.

Buy

Qiang handicrafts and specialty foods are on sale in the town and in the more tourist-orientated local villages (predominantly Taoping and Luobozhai at present). It_fs definitely worth bargaining if you want a fair price ? although an unfair price will help the locals more. The region is famous for its fruit and, in season, has apples, pears, plums, peaches, walnuts, cherries...

Eat

The Qiang are famous for collecting wild vegetables and also for their cured ham so it_fs well worth having a Qiang meal ? very healthy and full of flavor. Their staple food used to be maize although rice has largely replaced this in many areas. Another simple but good traditional food is small potatoes cooked in their skins and dipped in a chilli and salt mix.

Drink

The Qiang have a traditional mild alcohol called _eza jiu_f(?__) or _esucking wine_f. At festivals this is drunk through communal long bamboo straws from a single, large jar. However, it can also be requested at meals as a bottled drink. Other standard drinks are generally available (water, Coke, etc). Chinese tea is often served with meals.

Sleep

There are several hotels in Wenchuan. Foreign tourists mainly stay either at the International Travel Hotel (turn left out of the main entrance at the bus station and keep walking until you reach a 3-way broad junction - the hotel is across the junction on your left) or at the Ying Binguan which is at the northern end of town on the road which leads to Luobozhai and towards Songpan and Jiuzhaigou. To reach the Ying Binguan follow the main shopping street almost to the end of the shops. Turn left opposite a large government building and the hotel is set back behind the main road, overlooking the river. These two hotels have twin rooms with shower for about 200 RMB. If you go up the main shopping street and cross the river via the traffic bridge in the centre of town you come to the Kaiyi Hotel which is a relatively upmarket new hotel with rooms at around 220 RMB. Near the Kaiyi Hotel, the Sang Ping Hotel has rooms from around 100 RMB. These are in a good central location. There is a more basic hostel up an alley to the right of the vegetable market on Jiaochang Street (_Z?_X) which should be cheaper but they quoted me 100 RMB ? try bargaining!

In the villages of Taoping and Luobozhai there is accommodation available in fairly basic guest rooms which are extensions to family homes. Prices start from around 50RMB for bed, breakfast and evening meal. Luobozhai also has a fairly basic purpose built guest house with great views of the mountains. (This had had a fire in a couple of rooms so was out of action in September 07, but probably not for long.) A new guest house complex should be ready in 2008 adjacent to the traditional Taoping village, which will offer more comfortable rooms and possibly a good base for exploring the wider region. These guest houses are partially owned by the locals in Taoping.

Contact

Get out

There are buses going north on the route to Ma'erkang and Hongyuan or to Songpan and Jiuzhaigou and buses south to Dujiangyan and Chengdu. It is possible to hire a taxi or minivan for the journey but not much point as the buses are very convenient.