The '''20th arrondissement''' of Paris lies to the east of the centre and represents an old working-class area now in rapid transformation. The main draw card here ''for tourists'' is the Pere-Lachaise Cemetery, though for ''travellers'' who are interested in music and culture this relatively gritty area is probably going to be one of your main night-crawling areas.
There are nightclubs and cafes specializing in everything from punk-rock to world music in the Bagnolet neighborhood south of the cemetery, and the Menilmontant neighborhood north of the cemetery. Hopping from one show to the other you'll find lots of little cafes to have a beer at less than nightclub rates, or a pick-me-up coffee.
Get in
''By Metro''
Two main Metro stations on line 3: '''Gambetta''' and '''Pere Lachaise'''.
See
Cimetiere du Pere Lachaise. ere-Lachaise Cemetery. ain entrance: boulevard de Menilmontant. etro: Pere-Lachaise. ttp://www.pere-lachaise.com/. pen 16 March-5 November: Mo-Fr 8 am - 6 pm, Sa 8.30 am - 6 pm, Sunday & holidays 9 am - 6 pm; 5 November-15 March: Mo-Fr 8 am - 5.30 pm, Sa 8.30 am - 5.30 pm, Sunday & holidays 9 am - 5.30 pm. ree. Probably the most visited graveyard in any Western city, the vast Pere-Lachaise features literally thousands of often elaborately-decorated graves separated by narrow lanes and avenues. The roll-call of famous burials includes: Chopin, Champollion, Sarah Bernhardt, Edith Piaf, Oscar Wilde, Delacroix, Bizet, Proust, Balzac, Colette, Moliere and Jim Morrison of ''The Doors''.
Do
Buy
Eat
Lou Pascalou. 4 Rue des Panoyaux. 33 (0)1 4636 7810. Well hidden but worth seeking out, this unassuming restaurant serves happily inexpensive good food.
Aux Becs Fins. 4, boulevard de Menilmontant. 1 47 97 51 52. Good, serious food for those that are looking for a meal with substance. With dishes like stuffed cabbage and calf's head, it's a guarantee that you will leave full to the brim, but satified.
Drink
Fleche d'Or. 02 bis rue de Bagnolet. etro: Porte de Bangnolet. ttp://www.flechedor.com/. An old train station which has been transformed into a hip, popular night club.
La Miroiterie. 8 rue Menilmontant. etro: Menilmontant. ttp://lamiroit.com. A squat that offers interesting concerts and exhibitions. There is also a free shop, where you can both take and bring second-hand clothes, books, toys, and more.
Les Trois Arts. 1, rue des Rigoles. etro: Jourdain. 33 1 43 49 36 27. ttp://les3arts.free.fr/. pm-3am daily. This little corner bar which feels like it's been there for at least a century hosts ethic, folk and jazz music most nights in the basement.
La Maroquinerie. 3, Rue Boyer. etro . 33 1 40 33 35 05. ttp://www.lamaroquinerie.fr. It's a bar/cafe/restaurant upstairs and a music club (mostly indi rock) downstairs. As of this writing the Maroquinerie is one of the most happening indi venues in Paris (along with the Fleche d'Or).
La Belle Villoise. 9,21 rue Boyer. 33 146360707. ttp://www.labellevilloise.com. An underground, and thus hipper alternative to La Maroquinerie next door.
Gambetta. 04 rue de Bagnolet. etro: Alexandre-Dumas or Gambetta. 33 1 43 70 52 01. All things Jamaican: reggae, dub, jazz, etc.
Goguette. 3 rue du Bagnolet. etro: Alexandre-Dumas. 33 1 46 59 00 96. ttp://lagoguette.free.fr/. A mainly Latino-American club which also hosts the up-and-coming of ''chanson francais'' (French song).
Jawad K-Fe. 14 rue de Bagnolet. etro: Alexandre-Dumas or Gambetta. 33 43 67 73 35. World music
Le Lion Indomptable. 6 rue de la Reunion. etro: Alexandre-Dumas. 33 1 44 93 04 09. This Camarouni restaurant hosts touring acts from Africa, and local African artists.
Sleep
Budget
Mid-Range
Hotel Ermitage. 2, Bis rue de l'Ermitage. A small but intimate hotel that showcases some great views from its rooms.
Splurge
Stay safe
The 20th arrondissement is probably the one part of Paris where you should be a little more aware of the possibility of street crime.
Contact