'''Chiayi''' (___`), also spelled ''Jiayi'', is the main city of Chiayi County, southern Taiwan.

Understand

Chiayi is best known as the access point of the scenic mountain area of Alishan. The city itself has little to recommend: it's a cluster of unremarkable lowrise houses crammed tightly together with uneven pavements.

Get in

HSR Chiayi (Taibao) station is on the high-speed line between Taipei (1:30 hours, $1080) and Kaohsiung. The HSR station is over 15 km out of town, but linked to the city by the Chiayi BRT system.

Chiayi is also served by mainline TRA trains and the scenic narrow-gauge Alishan Forest Railway to Alishan, which both leave from the same station, but have separate ticketing counters. Long-distance buses leave from the terminal immediately outside the station, but local buses (notably those to nearby hot spring town Guanzihling) use the Zhongshan Rd bus terminal a few hundred meters down the street.

Get around

The '''Chiayi Bus Rapid Transit''' (BRT) [http://www.cibus.com.tw/] system has three lines, with the main line linking the HSR and TRA railway stations. The trip between the two takes around 30 minutes ($42, exact change), but note that the BRT stop is on the rear side of the TRA station, so you need to take the pedestrian bridge to cross to the other side. Buses have announcements in English, but signage is only in Chinese.

Taxis are plentiful, especially around the train stations, but no English is spoken.

See

Chiayi Park and Botanical Gardens are a lovely way to spend the afternoon. The Botanical Gardens provide pleasant trails that weave you through a large variety of plants and trees native to the area. Ponds hold koi, turtles, and frogs. You can even see hints of a traditional cemetery through the trees in some places. Chiayi park is well-maintained and serves as a center of activity for local adults and children.

Do

Buy

Zhongshan Road (___R_H) is Chiayi's main shopping street. It stretches from the train station to a fountain (____) at Wenhua Road -- although the water is usually turned off.

One specialty chain store that's located on Zhongshang Road is the "Guang Nan" (____), which caters in small electronics and other media-related goods. Catch a good deal on cables and computer accessories here, along with VCDs of Taiwan dramas/Japanese anime/American films (subtitled in traditional Chinese).

There are two night markets in Chiayi. One is the Wenhua night market on Wenhua road. The other is the Carrefour Night Market next to the Carrefour on Bo Ai Road.

Eat

Chiayi is famous in tourist guides for '''turkey rice''' (_{____), a popular dish of turkey strips and a savory sauce ladled on the rice. Most people call it "chicken rice" but it's really turkey meat. Go figure. At any rate, it's available in practically every eatery town, at prices starting from $20.

  • Fountain Turkey Rice. ____{____. 25 Zhongshan Rd (___R_H325_j). 50-100. One of the most popular turkey rice joints in town, with a number of franchises. But the joint on Culture Road, around the corner, is the real deal. Don't go to this tourist trap at No. 325.

    Drink

    Chiayi has countless tea stalls and quite a few KTV lounges, but virtually no bars in the Western sense.

  • Cha-no-Michi. _____. hongshan Rd 505-1. 15-40. Pleasant little modern tea shop right next to the Zhongshan Rd bus terminal, offering up a vast range of strange Taiwanese drinks like milk tea with pudding chunks (_z__?__) as well as more traditional fruit juices.

    Sleep

    There are a large number of mostly identical motels just outside the TRA Chiayi station.

  • Chiayi Dream Hotel. _______. hongzheng Rd 750 (_____H730_j. ouble/twin $600/750>Recently renovated clean but no-frills motel just around the corner from the station. Beds are small and the bathrooms could do with a bit of polishing.

  • New Alishan Hot Spring Motel. V_____R?___D______. iwei Rd 269 (_l___H269_j). 5-2314046. tandard rooms from $1200, spa rooms from $1680. ttp://www.minmen.com/w17.htm. Modern motel about 2km west of the station, offering fancy spa bathrooms in most (but not all) rooms.

    Get out

  • Alishan — one of Taiwan's best known scenic mountain areas
  • Guanziling — muddy hot spring resort