The Agion Oros (Holy Mountain) is a self-governed part of the Greek state, politically subject to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and to the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople as regards its religious aspect. The mountain is dedicated to the Holy Mother of God, and by an imperial document (typicon) the ''avaton'' was established and no female may set foot on the peninsula. Most of its inhabitants are Orthodox monks living in monasteries, sketae (cloisters), cells and hermitages, and those who are not members of the clergy, such as employees, workers, but also the numerous visitors to the Agion Oros, who come for the purposes of meditation, prayer and study.
Of the 20 monasteries, one is Russian, one is Bulgarian, one is Serbian and the rest are Greek. There is also a Romanian sketae. The foreign monasteries are supported by their respective countries.
These monasteries posses holy relics, icons, frescoes and mosaics of great value. Liturgical vestments, historical texts, rare documents and manuscripts - all historical heirlooms - are kept in their libraries. Many, of course, have been lost and others were stolen during various raids.
The first to settle here were iconodules, members of the clergy fleeing from the persecution of the iconoclasts. They came and lived as anchorites, unknown, and literally alone inside the caves. Later, monasteries were built and then they were organised in a monastic state. The Agion Oros became a refuge for those seeking to save their souls through fasting and praying. Even Byzantine emperors came and lived as monks here.
The right of autonomy of the Agion Orhos was granted gradually, initially by the Byzantine emperors Nikiforos Fokas and Ioannis Tsimiskis. This persisted throughout the Turkish Occupation up to this day.
During the years of enslavement it was a centre of the National Movement, and many who were wanted by the Turks took refuge there.
The common visitor can stay for free at each monastery for two days. Those who want to carry out studies can stay for as long as they want.
An entire civilisation, different from modern civilisation, is preserved not only in the libraries, but throughout this special state and its people, in peace and quiet.
A fair bit of advance preparation and battling with bureaucracy is necessary to visit Mount Athos, since only 100 Orthodox and 10 non-Orthodox visitors per day are permitted.
# A permit (''diamonetirion'') is required for both individuals and groups. This is issued by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Directorate of Churches (at No 2, Zalokosta Street, in Athens, tel: 3626.894) or by the Ministry of Northern Greece, Directorate of Civil Affairs at Diikitiriou Square in Thessaloniki, tel. 031/270.092. # Women are not admitted into the territory. # Overnight stay is forbidden to those under 18.
''Diamonetiria'' (permits to stay as a pilgrim) are issued by the offices of Mount Athos, at Ouranoupolis (on the right side of the port). In order to get their ''diamonetirion'' visitors must show their identity cards and pay the sum of €18 (Orthodox visitors), €30 (non-Orthodox) or €10 (non-Orthodox but student). Foreign visitors also need a passport; if you are Orthodox but not Greek, you will need to prove this (a letter from a priest or a baptismal certificate will do).
First contact the Pilgrims' Bureau (address below). They will need plenty of notice of your proposed visit - up to six months if you plan to visit during the summer months of June, July, and August when the monasteries are full to over-flowing with Greek and Orthodox pilgrims, but as little as a few days outside the peak season.
Contact: The Holy Executive of the Holy Mount Athos Pilgrims' Bureau 109 EGNATIA STR. 546 22, Thessaloniki, Greece Tel. +30 2310 252578, Fax +30 2310 222424
Once you have gained permission from the Pilgrims' Bureau you must contact each monastery where you plan to stay. Without their consent you will be turned away. A good site for further details of monasteries and how to contact each one by phone or fax is [http://abacus.bates.edu/~rallison/friends/friendsguide.html here]
The "general diamonetirion" usually granted to visitors allows you to stay a maximum of three days, visiting monasteries at will. The more rare "special diamonetirion" allows an unlimited stay at only one monastery.
It is possible to walk from monastery to monastery. The longest walk is from Agia Anna to The Great Lavra (six to seven hours). Many of the original footpaths are still clear but from time to time it will be necessary to walk on the roads.
Upon arrival at a monastery, the visitor may ask the guest-master if and when they may see and venerate the relics and miraculous icons and may receive a kind of guided tour and information about the history of the monastery.
Highlights include the old church of '''Protaton''', which has exceptional murals and a famous icon of the Virgin Mary, called ''Axion Esti'', which is the household icon of the patron saint of the Holy Mountain.
It is a good idea to take additional supplies with you, to supplement the meagre diet. Energy bars, fruit, treats are good to take.
'''No meat''' is allowed on Mount Athos as the monks don't eat meat. As a visitor, you will be expected to respect this and not bring any meat products to the peninsula.
No payment is expected for stays of one night, but donations are usually accepted, especially if you request and receive permission to stay longer.