'''Rogers Park''' is the northern border of Chicago — the wild-eyed inheritor of uninhibited lakefront, swamps become beaches, and the beauty of Chicago bricks. There may be no better place to experience the casual riches the city has to offer, with several miles of parks and beaches, and quiet blocks of breathtaking apartments and homes.

This article also includes '''Edgewater''', the more reasonable counterbalance to its neighbor (fewer calamities, and a few terrific bars), and '''West Ridge''', home to several ethnic communities, including nearly a mile of great Indian restaurants and stores.

Understand

When Philip Rogers arrived in Chicago for the first time in 1834, he immediately began making plans to leave. There was mud everywhere, the narrow streets were choked and chaotic, and the winters were brutal. But he was stuck in Chicago because the waterways back to New York were frozen, so Rogers had to wait out the winter; by the spring, he had a line on a pretty good team of oxen, so he headed as far north as he could, past the limits of the city and its fringe settlements, out to wild swampland where Indian villages were still resident — and there began '''Rogers Park'''.

The nature of Rogers Park is calamity amid beauty and the equality of impulse toward each. In this way, many of the neighborhood's key events can be understood: the secession of the '''West Ridge''' area (sometimes called West Rogers Park) over whether to incorporate as a village (which they did anyway); the 1894 "Home-Made Transfer War," in which Rogers Park residents stuck it to railroad tycoon Charles Yerkes by refusing to pay extra to ride the northern extension of his streetcar line, and tried to pass off the transfers they'd made at home on the conductors; and the "Cabbage Head War" of 1896, in which a Rogers Park politician gave unsophisticated West Ridge farmers an unflattering nickname, and they proved him wrong by putting cabbages on poles and marching on his house.

With regular floods from the wild and swampy beaches to the east, annexation to Chicago and its sewage services proved a strong temptation. As the city surged north, a building boom followed, and Rogers Park was blessed with a gorgeous stock of residential and commercial buildings; West Ridge wound up with long blocks of lovely, modest Prairie-style bungalows. Only one famous name is still in the area (Frank Lloyd Wright's '''Emil Bach House'''), but the routine beauty of the architecture in Rogers Park and West Ridge is still incredible.

The diversity, too, is unrivaled in a notoriously segregated city. Rogers Park has always been the most beautiful place in Chicago where basically anyone could afford to live — silent Irish generations still fighting the Cabbage Head War in their sleep, and immigrants newly arrived from Serbia, from Jamaica, from the Sudan. For a visitor, special mention has to go to the Indian community on '''Devon Avenue'''. Between roughly 2200 W and 2700 W Devon, among thriving import stores that specialize in saris, spices, and the latest Bollywood dreams, there are a number of amazing Indian and Pakistani restaurants that will almost certainly spoil you for the stuff back home (assuming "back home" is anywhere but the Indian subcontinent). The only day ''not'' to go is Tuesday, when many businesses and restaurants are closed.

'''Edgewater''', on the other hand, is remarkably laid-back. It was originally demarcated as part of the Uptown community area, but when that area went into economic decline, Edgewater residents swiftly seceded and established their own neighborhood. Today, it segues neatly into Andersonville to the south, with a few gay cultural institutions and several nice restaurants, coffee shops and bars.

Get in

By train

The CTA '''Red Line''' runs from the Loop to Edgewater (Bryn Mawr, Thorndale, Granville) and Rogers Park (Loyola, Morse, Jarvis), eventually terminating at Howard Street on the border of Evanston. (There is a major bus terminal adjacent to the Howard station — see below.) The dilapidated, urine-soaked Morse and Jarvis are two of the worst stations on the CTA map. Travelers with disabilities should plan to disembark at Howard, Loyola or Granville and use a bus to cover any remaining distance to their destinations.

The CTA '''Purple Line''' runs from Evanston to Howard, continuing non-stop southward to the Belmont station in Lakeview during weekday rush periods. The CTA Yellow Line from Skokie ends at Howard.

The Metra [http://www.metrarail.com] '''Union Pacific North Line''' stops in Rogers Park (at Lunt Ave) before moving on to Evanston. Not every train serves that station, though, so check signs or schedules before boarding.

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By bus

  • '''11 Lincoln/Sedgwick''' travels Lincoln Avenue and then cuts over to Kedzie through West Ridge, passing by the Lincoln Village shopping mall.
  • '''22 Clark''' runs all night along on Clark Street through Rogers Park and Edgewater, and on to Andersonville, Lakeview, and the rest of the North Side.
  • '''36 Broadway''' runs through Edgewater and on to Uptown, connecting with the Red Line at Granville.
  • '''49 Western''' stops on Devon in the midst of the Indian restaurants and stores and continues all the way up to Howard Street and the Evanston border.
  • '''96 Lunt''' connects with the Morse Red Line near the lake and the Rogers Park Metra station further west.
  • '''97 Skokie''' runs from the Howard CTA Station through south Evanston & Skokie, connecting with the CTA Yellow Line and ending at the Old Orchard Shopping Center.
  • '''147 Outer Drive Express''' runs express on Lake Shore Drive to and from the Magnificent Mile, becoming all-stops for Edgewater and Rogers Park.
  • '''151 Sheridan''' is also an express from downtown, running all-stops down Sheridan Road. It's an all-night route.
  • '''155 Devon''' connects with both the Morse and Loyola Red Line stations, and travels through the length of the Indian neighborhood on Devon.
  • Several PACE suburban routes depart from the Howard Street bus terminal.

  • '''215 Crawford-Howard''' runs west down Howard Street, ending up at the Old Orchard shopping complex in Skokie.
  • '''290 Touhy''' travels through the Orthodox Jewish community in West Ridge, crossing into the suburbs and later back to the Far Northwest Side.
  • By car

    The best way to reach Edgewater and Rogers Park by car is the fabled '''Lake Shore Drive''', which ends at Sheridan and Hollywood in Edgewater. The '''Edens Expressway''' has exits at Peterson and Touhy just west of the two neighborhoods.

    The intersection of Sheridan and Devon can be confusing if you're trying to follow directions. Coming from Rogers Park, although it looks as though Sheridan continues south past Devon, that's where it becomes Broadway; Sheridan actually veers left at that point and then right along the lake. From the other direction, this is the eastern border of Devon Avenue, even though it looks like it continues further east — that's where the Sheridan name has taken over.

    Parking is generally no problem in Edgewater and West Ridge, but Rogers Park is never easy. Watch for permit-only streets near Loyola University, and check street signs on Sheridan before parking overnight there. They're usually full, but there are meter parking lots near the beach at the end of Touhy and between Lunt & Greeleaf, and on the western side of the L tracks on Glenwood.

    See

    The '''Glenwood Avenue Arts District''' is a nice idea that someone had at some point, and it's still optimistically advertised by banners up and down the street (between Pratt and Touhy), but there isn't much going on. Most of the storefronts are vacant (or appear to be). Occasional group shows are held at the '''Eidolon Art Studio''' [http://www.eidolonartstudio.com] (7001 N Glenwood Ave) and the '''Greenleaf Art Center''' [http://www.greenleafartcenter.com/] (1836 W Greenleaf).

    For a better check on the artistic pulse of Rogers Park, check out the block-long concrete bench between Pratt Beach and Loyola Beach (facing the lake and the jogging trail), which is divided up into short segments and re-painted every year by members of the community and a few local businesses, musing on the neighborhood, the city, outer space, and whatever else is on their minds — a good mix of the memorable and the inexplicable.

  • Emil Bach House. 415 N Sheridan Rd. arvis Red Line. This is the only survivor of the two homes Frank Lloyd Wright built in Rogers Park, commissioned by a local brick magnate. (And Chicago is a good place to be in the brick business.) After years of neglect, a new owner has scrupulously restored the house, but it's not open for tours — you'll have to content yourself with exterior views of the home's late Prairie School style, and the ingenuity of Wright's design that copes with the small lot and the busy street facing the house.

  • Gerber/Hart Library. 127 W Granville Ave. ranville Red Line. 1 773 381-8030. nfo@gerberhart.org. ttp://www.gerberhart.org/. -Th 6-9PM, F-Su noon-4PM. ree. A private, non-profit library spanning a couple of storefronts next to the train station, with 14,000 books, 800 periodicals, and extensive archives on GLBT issues. Reading groups for men and women are held here, as is Cinema Lesbiana and other events. Call or write ahead for access to the archives or special research requests.

  • Leather Archives and Museum. 418 N Greenview Ave. oyola Red Line. 1 773 761-9200. ttp://www.leatherarchives.org/. h-F 11AM-7PM, Sa-Su 11AM-5PM. 5. ''Not'' a collection of informational exhibits about making clothes from the hides of cows. This is an adults-only collection of sex and fetish-related books, with S&M artifacts and photo exhibits of gay male erotica by notable names such as Robert Mapplethorpe.

  • Mess Hall. 932 N Glenwood Ave. orse Red Line. 1 773 465-4033. ttp://www.messhall.org/. Sometimes busy nearly every day of the month, and other times silent for weeks on end, the Mess Hall is an "experimental cultural center" that represents a Rogers Park tradition of agitprop eclectica — art exhibits, lectures, films, and people showing up with food. There's a schedule on the website, but you might as well just stop by to see what's going on.

  • Madonna della Strada Chapel. 525 N Sheridan Rd. oyola Red Line. 1 773 508-2200. ttp://www.luc.edu/sacramental_life/Madonna_Della_Strada_Chapel.shtml. -F 7:30AM-8PM, Sa 7:30AM-noon, Su 7:30AM-10PM; masses M-F 8AM & noon, Su 10:30AM, 5PM, 9PM. ree. Art deco style meets religious devotion in the spectacular Madonna della Strada Chapel, built in 1938 on the grounds of Loyola University's campus. Thanks to a recent renovation, the chapel is sparkling like new, but there's still work being done on the pipe organ.

    Do

    '''Loyola University Chicago''' [http://www.luc.edu/] has its flagship campus here, with 15,000 students. In 1991, it absorbed Mundelein College, a pioneering women's school. Loyola University athletics haven't been up to much since the 1963 NCAA basketball championship, but Rogers Park would still go nuts at the first signs of life from the Ramblers — Loyola basketball tickets ($5-10) are a cheap way to catch some local flavor and have fun.

    This area isn't well-known for theater, but it should be — there are some exceptional companies here. The '''Heartland Cafe''' (see Eat) is event-happy, and there are a few great music venues to check out (see Drink).

  • Lifeline Theater. 912 N Glenwood Ave. orse Red Line. 1 773 761-4477. 10 KidSeries, $14-26 other shows. ttp://lifelinetheatre.com/. Performs original work and adaptations of adult ("A Room With A View") and children's ("The Stinky Cheese Man") literature; their motto is "big stories, up close."

  • No Exit Cafe. 970 N Glenwood Ave. orse Red Line. 1 773 743-3355. ttp://www.heartlandcafe.com/nx_index.htm . The No Exit Cafe was first opened here in 1967, going through chess, jazz, Go, and other phases along the way. Today, it has a stage in regular use (mostly weekends) for performances of all kinds, including political dance, theater, and sketch comedy, some of which have been highly acclaimed. It's run by the owners of the Heartland Cafe, which means that food and coffee are available.

  • Raven Theatre. 157 N Clark St. 2 Clark bus. 1 773 338-2177. ttp://www.raventheatre.com/. 15-20. Iconoclasts by default, the resident company at the Raven has the courage to tackle classic American plays ''without'' putting a post-modern spin on the material or thrusting technology into the staging. It's kooky, but it works. Non-resident companies also find room to debut new works on the well-designed stage here.

  • The Side Project. 439 W Jarvis Ave. arvis Red Line. 1 773 973-2150. ttp://www.thesideproject.net/. 10-15. They're new in the neighborhood, but the Side Project is quickly becoming one of Chicago's best storefront theaters. Shows include world premiere dramas and well-chosen revivals of overlooked plays, with committed actors and innovative staging that has the audience in the midst of the action.

    Beaches

    As with the rest of Chicago, the official swim season runs from Memorial Day to Labor Day, 9AM-9:30PM daily. However, the parks along the lakefront are open year-round (6AM-11PM daily), and fill up with picnics at the first sign of spring. And the piers on Pratt Beach are favorites with people taking the "polar plunge" on New Year's.

    Edgewater

  • Osterman Beach. ollywood Beach. 800 N Lake Shore Dr. horndale Red Line. 1 312 747-0832. ttp://www.chicagoparkdistrict.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/parks.detail/object_id/06E4E42E-CEE9-4D90-A6FA-3E33475835FF.cfm. Although the beach earned its original name (Hollywood Beach) from being at the end of Hollywood Avenue, the Lake Shore Drive high-rises in the background give this nice, long beach a slightly

    Events & Festivals

  • <listing name="Glenwood Avenue Arts Fair" alt="" directions="Morse Red Line" address="6900 N Glenwood Ave" phone="+1 773 262-3790" email="" fax="" hours="" price="Free" url="http://www.rogerspark.com/specialfeatures/gaaf/index.php"> Annual festival in August to celebrate the neighborhood and throw some light on the Glenwood Avenue art galleries, food & drink, performances, and events for kids.</listing>
  • Buy

    Outside of Devon Avenue and a couple of cowboy fashion shops on Clark, there are only a few notable places to shop in this part of the city.

  • Apple the Second. 45 W Howard St. 1 847 424-0786. ttp://www.applethesecond.com . -Sa 12-7PM. The apple represents temptation, which in this case is upscale, European-influenced fashion for women at reasonable prices. The Polish-Mexican couple who run the store have unique items and enjoy being here.

  • The Armadillo's Pillow. 753 N Sheridan Rd. 1 773 761-2558. ttp://www.abebooks.com/home/ARMPILL/. u,Tu-Th 12-8PM, F 12-10PM, Sa 10AM-8PM. This is a warm, goofy, cluttered bookstore with an unpredictable collection of used and rare books, guided by laid-back, book-loving staff. The worn, comfortable couches and self-serve coffee make it nice to stick around for a while.

  • Broadway Antique Market. ranville Red Line. 130 N Broadway St. 1 773 743-5444. pen M-Sa 11AM-7PM, Su 12-6PM. ttp://www.bamchicago.com/. Two floors of antiques in Edgewater. The first floor has plenty of interesting Chicago ephemera, but the nifty full-room set-ups on the second floor are fun to explore whether or not you plan to buy anything.

  • Lost Eras. 511 W Howard St. oward Red/Purple/Yellow Line. 1 773 764-7400. ttp://www.losteras.com/. -Sa 10AM-6PM, Su 12-5PM. This cavernous costume shop can, at turns, resemble a collection of haunted antiques — this stretch of Howard Street has several dusty old Jazz Age buildings, and this is one of the few that's open without having been scrubbed clean. Their costume selection is terrific, but it's worth the visit just to have a look around.

  • Rosenblum's World of Judaica. 906 W Devon Ave. 1 773 262-1700. u 10AM-4PM, M-W 9AM-6PM, Th 9AM-7PM, F 9AM-3PM, Jewish holidays closed or limited hours. A few blocks west of the Indian shopping district, this is the premier Jewish bookstore in Chicago, with an unmatched collection of sacred Hebrew texts, books for kids, and gifts like the occasional Chanukah baseball. '''Levinson's Bakery''' is just a block east if you'd like to pore over your purchases with some challa.

  • Taste Food & Wine. 506 W Jarvis Ave. arvis Red Line. 1 773 761-3663. ttp://www.tastefoodandwine.com/. ,W-Sa 11AM-9PM, Su 11AM-6PM. A lovely little wine shoppe, with a nice spread of moderately-priced wines, some beers and ciders, and various tasty nibblies. (Prosciutto? Roasted figs? Cornichons? Oh, yes.) The wines don't favor any one geographical location overmuch, and tend to lean towards a pleasantly high quaffability quotient instead of veering towards either pole of self-pickling (musty snobbery on one end, and "get me loaded up on that box o'vino" on the other). The Monday and Friday tastings are a treat, as are conversations with the friendly staff.

  • Unan Imports. 971 N Sheridan Rd. orse Red Line. 1 773 274-4022. -Sa 11AM-7PM. This tiny, wonderful shop stocks African imports ranging from clothing, jewelry and masks to beauty products and djembe (drums from Mali). Dr. Alphonsus Ntamere, a
  • Capt'n Nemo's. 367 N. Clark St. oward Red Line. 1 773 973-0570. ttp://chicagobestitalianbeefsoupscateringrestaurants.com/index.html" price= "$4-$8. One of Chicago's best sandwich and soup deals. Wide variety of fresh made toasted subs and soups - including their famous chili. Every person entering is immediately offered a taste sampling of any of the day's soups.

  • Caribbean American Baking Company. 547 W Howard St. oward Red Line. 1 773 761-0700. ttp://www.caribbeanamericanbakery.com/. -Sa 8AM-9PM, Su 10AM-5PM. 2-7. Take-out only, but Howard Beach is right down the block — sun, surf, Jamaican bread and Jerk chicken patties are what the north pole of Chicago is all about. (Vegetable patties are available, too.)

  • The Dagel and Beli. 400 N Greenview Ave. arvis Red Line. 1 773 743-2354. -F 7AM-8PM, Sa-Su 6AM-8PM. 5-7. Steamed bagel sandwiches with free Spoonerisms. Attached to Charmers Cafe, from which drinks can be ordered.

  • Deta's Cafe. 555 N Ridge Blvd. 1 773 973-1505. 0AM-11PM daily. 2-8. The culinary diversity of Rogers Park extends as far as
  • Harold's Chicken Shack #44. 952 N Clark St. 2 Clark bus. 1 773 465-2300. -Th 11AM-1:30AM, F-Sa 11AM-2AM. Hark! Harold's has come to Rogers Park!

  • Noon Hour Grill. 930 N Glenwood Ave. orse Red Line. 1 773 338-9494. u-M 8AM-3PM, W-Sa 8AM-7PM. 5-8. It doesn't look like much from the outside, but where else are you going to have to choose between a hearty diner breakfast (bacon, sausage, eggs), Korean home cooking (bi bim bop, Yook Gue Jung soup), or the point at which they meet (Korean spaghetti, bulgogi and kimchee omelettes)?

  • Wolfy's. 734 W Peterson Ave. 9 Western bus, 84 Peterson bus. 1 773 743-0207. -Sa 10:30AM-9PM, Su 11AM-8PM. Hot dogs and Polish sausages are a powerful, ancient tradition in West Ridge, and while there are still plenty of fast food shacks in the area, Wolfy's is the last of the old-school, pilgrimage-worthy hot dog proprietors. For a bit of hot dog history, sneak a peek at the hot dog sculptures behind the now-closed U Lucky Dawg (formerly Fluky's) a short distance east at 6821 N Western.

    Mid-range

    Devon

    Most restaurants on Devon specialize in cuisine from specific regions of India, which can vary quite a bit. Southern Indian cooking will be less familiar to most, but it's also remarkably friendly to vegetarians.

  • Arya Bhavan. 508 W Devon Ave. 1 773 274-5800. ttp://www.aryabhavan.com/. -Th 2-3PM,5-9PM, F 12-3PM,5-9:30PM, Sa-Su 12-9:30PM. 6-12. The first thing you notice is the pink handkerchiefs, floating over the tables like butterflies. Arya Bhavan has a small but lovely dining room, serving mostly northern Indian food (and a weekend buffet) for vegetarians ''and'' vegans. As a bonus, it's open most major holidays.

  • Khan BBQ. 401 W Devon Ave. 1 773 338-2800. a-Th 12:30PM-11PM, F 2-11PM. 8-12. If you're had it with vegetarians, this is where to get some meat on your plate. Khan BBQ serves Pakistani food, charcoal-fired and caramelized, and they're busy from open to close.

  • Mysore Woodlands. 548 W Devon Ave. 1 773 338-8160. u-Th 11:30AM-9:30PM, F-Sa 11:30AM-10PM. 8-10. Purely vegetarian Southern Indian cooking, with a spacious dining room. If you've never tried dosai, which is somewhere between a burrito, a crepe, and a horn-of-plenty, they have several cheap, filling varieties here.

  • Sabri Nehari. 502 1/2 W Devon Ave. 1 773 743-6200. ttp://www.sabrinihari.com/. 0AM-midnight daily. 9-13. This Pakistani restaurant is one of the busiest on Devon, filled with local families. They do wonders with chicken, especially the monumental chicken charga, in which an entire bird is deep-fried and marinated with secret spices.

  • Tiffin. 536 W Devon Ave. 1 773 338-2143. ttp://www.tiffinrestaurant.com/. 1:30AM-3PM, 5-10PM. 10-20. Possibly the fanciest restaurant on Devon, with a space-age ceiling and decor that calls to mind an expensive hotel lobby. Tandoori dishes are the specialty, and there's a lunch buffet seven days a week.

  • Udupi Palace. 543 W Devon Ave. 1 773 338-2152. ttp://www.udupipalace.com/. 9-12. This is one of the most popular restaurants with visitors on Devon, offering a Southern Indian-style vegetarian menu that packs its fair share of spice.

  • Uru-Swati. 629 W Devon Ave. 1 773 262-5280. ttp://www.uru-swati.net/. u-M,W-Th 11AM-9PM, F-Sa 11AM-10PM. 9-12. The aqua walls and cafe-like atmosphere make Uru-Swati a relaxing place to stay, and their vegetarian menu covers a lot of range — you can pair standbys like naan with new finds from northern and southern India.

  • Viceroy of India. 518 W Devon Ave. 1 773 743-4100. ttp://www.viceroyofindia.com/. 1:30AM-2:30PM daily, Su-Th 5-10PM, F-Sa 5-10:30PM. 12-20. It's currently covered in scaffolding with no sign, but visitors and locals still seek out the Viceroy for its mighty chicken, lunch buffet ($8-9), and long wine list. The menu is primarily northern Indian. This is a great place to go with a big party.

    Others

  • African Harambee. 537 N Clark St. oward Red/Yellow/Purple Line. 1 773 764-2200. u-Th 12-10PM, F-Sa 12-11PM. Pan-African food and flavors with seafood, meat, and vegetarian options on the menu. Plenty of African beers and wines, too.

  • Broadway Cellars. 900 N Broadway St. horndale Red Line. 1 773 944-1208. ttp://www.broadwaycellars.net/. -Th 5-10PM, F 5-11PM, Sa 11:30AM-9PM, Su 10:30AM-3PM. 10-19. Neighborhood bistro in Edgewater with plenty of wine to sample, either while splashing out on dishes like the duck lasagna or keeping calm with a simple nosh platter.

  • Ethiopian Diamond Restaurant & Lounge. 120 N Broadway St. ranville Red Line. 1 773 338-6100. -Th noon-10PM, F noon-10:30PM, Sa-Su 11AM-11:30PM. 11-20. ttp://www.ethiopiandiamond.com/. Ethiopian cuisine in Edgewater, equally friendly to carnivores and vegetarians and best enjoyed with a group to share a platter.

  • Gino's North. 111 W Granville Ave. ranville Red Line. 1 773 465-1616. PM-2AM bar, 4-11PM kitchen daily. Virtually unknown in the annals of Chicago pizza lore, Gino's North — not East, as in the famous city-wide chain — is, nevertheless, a great love of all who know it. The key is to confirm that Peggy is working that day; if she's in the kitchen, make tracks to enjoy the work of one of the finest pizza auteurs of our time.

  • Heartland Cafe. 000 N Glenwood Ave. orse Red Line. itchen M-Th 7AM-10PM, F 7AM-11PM, Sa 8AM-11PM, Su 8AM-10PM; bar M-Th 7AM-midnight, F-Sa 8AM-2AM, Su 11AM-midnight. 10-18. ttp://www.heartlandcafe.com/. There's almost always something going on at the hippie-friendly Heartland Cafe: open mic nights, live rock/jazz/blues, plays, and art/photo exhibits. While vegetarian-friendly, the menu is a bit overpriced — you are paying for the ambiance. The outdoor seating is a pleasure in the summer. Check out the "kozmic" bookstore (and the photobooth) while you're waiting for a table.

  • Jamaica Jerk. 631 W Howard St. oward Red/Purple/Yellow Line. 1 773 764-1546. u-Th 11AM-9PM, F-Sa 11AM-10PM, Su 12-8PM. ttp://www.jamaicajerk-il.com/. Jamaican and Caribbean cuisine, with free parking and kid's menus to boot. It's right outside the Howard CTA station, fronted by the facade of the old Howard Theater. If it's too crowded, try '''Good to Go''' three blocks west.

  • Lake Side Cafe. 418 W Howard St. oward Red/Purple/Yellow Line. 1 773 262-9503. ttp://www.lake-side-cafe.com/. u,Tu-F 5PM-9PM, Sa 12-9PM. Close to the lake and the train, serving organic vegetarian food — things that look like meat (fake Polish dogs) and things that don't (soups, salads, pizzas).

  • Leona's. 935 N Sheridan. orse Red Line. 1 773 764-5757. -Th 11AM-11PM, F 11AM-12:30AM, Sa 11:30AM-12:30PM, Su 10:30AM-10:30PM. 12-18. Good all-around Italian and American fare; plenty of meat, but vegetarian-friendly as well, including the terrific big vegan burger. This location has a big, padded kids room with animated movies to keep them occupied during Sunday brunch.

  • Moody's Pub. 910 N Broadway St. horndale Red Line. 910 N Broadway St. -Sa 11:30AM-1AM, Su noon-1AM. 9-12. ttp://www.moodyspub.com. An Edgewater institution since 1959, serving beer and monster Moodyburgers. The dark, cave-like interior is a great refuge in the winter, while the sizable beer garden takes equal advantage of summer.

    Splurge

  • Amphora. 547 N Clark St. oward Red/Purple/Yellow Line. 1 773 262-5767. -Sa 11AM-4PM,5PM-10:30PM,Su 4-10:30PM; bar to 1AM Tu-Th, to 2AM F-Sa, to 10PM Su. 16-28. Carnivorous Mediterranean pleasures in Rogers Park, at the
  • Red Line Tap. 006 N Glenwood Ave. orse Red Line. 1 773 274-5463. -F 4PM-2AM, Sa noon-3AM, Su 2PM-2AM. ometimes $5 cover for live music. A solid place for a beer, not far from the lake. Food is available from the Heartland Cafe next door.

  • The Sovereign. ranville Red Line. 205 N Broadway St. 1 773 764-8900. ttp://www.thesovereignchicago.com. Super friendly, comfortable establishment in Edgewater. A place where the jukebox is just the right volume and you'll never feel uncomfortable. For cheap beer and generous mixed drinks, this a friendly neighborhood bet.

  • Uncommon Ground. 401 W Devon Ave. oyola Red Line. 1 773 465-9801. ttp://www.uncommonground.com/. -Th 9AM-midnight, F-Sa 9AM-2AM, Su 9AM-10PM. A new second branch of the Lakeview bar promises great things for the Rogers Park music scene, with the former program director of the jazz landmark '''The HotHouse''' on board to set the schedule. There's a full menu of organic food and eco-friendly touches like solar panels on the roof.

    Sleep

    Budget

  • Chicago International Hostel. 318 N Winthrop Ave. oyola Red Line. 1 773 262-1011. ooms $25.50. ttp://www.hostelinchicago.com. A very basic hostel with kitchen facilities, safebox rental, lockers, common room with TV/Internet access. The minimum age is 16 and reservations are required, but there's no curfew. It's one block from Loyola University, close to the lake.

  • Lincoln Inn. 952 N Lincoln Ave. 1 773 784-1118. ooms from $42 1-10 hours, $52 all night. This cousin of the Sin Strip motels is missing the over-the-top neon, but it's in a sedate location within a close walk of the Indian community on Devon Avenue and a shopping center.

    Mid-range

    The notorious motels of Lincoln Avenue have been listed in Lincoln Square, although some are located close to West Ridge.

  • Ardmore House. 248 W Ardmore Ave. 1 773 728-5414. ooms from $99. Garage parking available for $20. ttp://www.ardmorehousebb.com/. Bed & breakfast for GLBT travelers in a century-old Victorian home, not far from Hollywood Beach.

  • Heart O' Chicago Motel. 990 N Ridge Ave. 1 773 271-9181. 1 773 271-6804. 1am. ooms from $79. ttp://www.heartochicago.com/. Want to impress a local? Generations of north-siders have driven past the Heart O' Chicago's famous sign without seeing what's inside — 45 basic motel rooms, as it turns out. Continental breakfast and wireless internet are included. You'll probably want a car if you're staying here, though..

  • Inn on Early. 241 W Early Ave. 1 773 334-4666. ooms from $95, plus $25 for more than single occupancy. ttp://www.innonearly.com/. Bed & breakfast with three guest rooms in Edgewater, close to the lakefront.

  • Super 8 Chicago/Rogers Park. 300 N Sheridan Rd. orse Red Line. 1 773 973-7440. ooms from $120. ttp://www.super8.com/Super8/control/Booking/check_avail?brandCode=SE,MQ,DI,HJ,KG,RA,TL,BU&searchWithinMiles=25&areaType=1&destination=chicago&stateName=Illinois&state=IL&countryName=United%20States&country=US. Right down the street from the beach. Many amenities including parking, internet, and facilities for long-term stays.

    Contact

    Libraries

  • <listing name="Edgewater Branch Library" alt="" directions="Thorndale Red Line" address="1210 W Elmdale Ave" phone="+1 312 744-0718" email="" fax="" url="http://www.chipublib.org/002branches/edgewater/edgewater.html" hours="M-Th 9AM-9PM, F-Sa 9AM-5PM" price=""> Free public internet access at a classic 1970s branch, just off Broadway.</listing>
  • <listing name="Northtown Branch Library" alt="" directions="155 Devon bus" address="6435 N California Ave" phone="+1 312 744-2292" email="" fax="" url="http://www.chipublib.org/002branches/northtown/northtown.html" hours="M-Th 9AM-9PM, F-Sa 9AM-5PM" price=""> Free public internet access, near the culinary glories of Devon Avenue.</listing>
  • <listing name="Rogers Park Branch Library" alt="" directions="Morse Red Line/22 Clark bus" address="6907 N Clark St" phone="+1 312 744-0156" email="" fax="" url="http://www.chipublib.org/002branches/rogers/rogers.html" hours="M-Th 9AM-9PM, F-Sa 9AM-5PM" price=""> New library with free public internet access, a few blocks west of the CTA station (or east of the Metra station).</listing>
  • Internet cafes

  • <listing name="La Bella Cafe & Internet" alt="" directions="22 Clark bus" address="6624 N Clark St" phone="+1 773 856-7000" email="" fax="" url="" hours="10AM-10PM daily" price="$4/hour"> Internet access, fax and full-service printing, and webcams/microphones for chats back home. There's coffee, tea, juice, and some basic food.</listing>
  • <listing name="Quest Network Services" alt="" directions="Jarvis Red Line" address="7301 N Sheridan Rd" phone="+1 773 761-3555" email="" fax="206-337-1097" hours="M-F 11AM-10PM, Sa 11AM-11PM, Su 1-9PM" price="" url="http://www.Questpcs.com/"> Conveniently located internet cafe, just a block from the beach.</listing>
  • Stay safe

    Edgewater and West Ridge are low crime areas, with common sense applied. Rogers Park, on the other hand, can be trouble by night. Chicagoans tend to overstate the crime rate there, largely because it's surrounded by neighborhoods where crime is comparatively unknown. By overall city standards, it's not particularly dangerous, but don't carry anything irreplaceable on your person (or in your car) if you plan to go roaming after dark. (That said, trouble by day is virtually non-existent.)

    Campus police can be relied upon to patrol the area near Loyola University around the clock, extending as far as Devon, but some visitors may feel uncomfortable walking alone on Morse, Jarvis, Glenwood, Howard, and their side-streets late at night. There are police cameras on the streetlights at Morse, so wave and say 'hello'.

    Wandering the beaches and parks is fine after dark, but don't go swimming after hours, particularly at the smaller beaches — certain property owners thrive on calling the cops on late swimmers. Climbing the breakwater rocks between beaches can be a lot of fun, but is not allowed by the Chicago Park District lifeguards.

    Get out

  • Evanston is the next city north, offering more beaches, lovely tree-lined residential areas and a thriving downtown.
  • Many visitors continue down Sheridan Avenue through Evanston to Wilmette in order to see the spectacular '''Baha'i Temple'''.