'''Astana''' (formerly Aqmola and Tselinograd), in the north of Kazakhstan, is the second largest city in the country. It took over the role of capital city from Almaty (the largest city) in December 1998. Now, it is undergoing a transformation costing billions of dollars, where top international architects assist in trying to make Astana a worthy capital - not only of Kazakhstan but of all Central Asia.
Get in
By plane
'''Astana International Airport'''[http://www.astanaairport.kz/] ({{IATA|TSE}} {{ICAO|UACC}}) is about 15 kilometers south of central Astana. It serves Moscow, Beijing, Delhi, Seoul, Bangkok, Istanbul, Dubai, London, Amsterdam, Hannover and Frankfurt, as well as several domestic destinations.
'''Air Astana'''[http://www.airastana.com/], the flag carrier of Kazakhstan, flies to Almaty, Delhi, Dubai, Frankfurt, Hanover, Istanbul-Ataturk, Moscow-Sheremetyevo, and Urumqi from Astana Airport.
'''Bus 10''' connects the airport and the city centre twice hourly, price is 50 KZT. A '''taxi''' from the airport to the city centre is about USD20.
Get around
There are plenty of taxis around: expect to pay between KZT300 and 1000 for a trip within the city.
See
'''Baiterek Tower''' is one example of the futuristic architecture in the newborn city. Nicknamed "Chupa Chups" by the locals due to its similarity to a giant lollipop, this 97 meter high building offers a great view of the city as well as an art gallery, an aquarium and a restaurant. In the center of the top sphere, the ever so humble President Nazarbayev has made a golden palm print where visitors may put their own hands.
'''Khan Shatyry'''[http://www.khanshatyry.com/] is a giant transparent tent currently under construction. The 150m-high tent has a 200m elliptical base covering an area larger than 10 football stadiums, and will contain a park, a shopping and entertainment area with squares and cobbled streets, a boating river, minigolf and an indoor beach resort. While Astana is one of the world's coldest capitals with temperatures down to -40__C in the cold season, the transparent material will let sunshine in and help to keep temperatures comfortable all year.
'''The President's Museum of Kazakhstan''', Barayev 3, is built like a yurt with a dome resembling a mosque. It contains exhibitions about the history of the country. The main attraction is a replica of the Golden Man costume, a warrior's suit that was found in a tomb east of Almaty. It contains of more than 4000 gold pieces, and the original was considered too fragile to be put on display (it is now kept safe in the national bank).
'''Atameken Map of Kazakhstan''' is an outdoor museum giving you an overview of the entire country in a miniature version. This 1.7-hectare exhibit features more than 200 mock-up pieces, creating Kazakh cities and historical memorials. During the summer months at least, there are normally English speaking guides available (optional obviously), should you wish to learn a little about the models, and there is a covered section which focuses on the newer constructions within the city of Astana itself. Taking photos sometimes requires an extra payment to be made - you may want to keep cameras in your bag until you pass out of sight of the front ticket office.
'''Palace of Peace and Reconciliation''' The pyramid portion of the building is 62 m high which sits on a 15 m high earth covered block. All of this construction is above ground level. Though the landscaping of the park rises up to cover the lower levels, these are not in fact basements.This building offers a great view of the city as well as two art gallery, a arceologic and ethnografic museum, opera hall, and a cafe.
Do
Nightlife
There are two discos (night clubs) that are frequently referenced by locals: Chocolate [http://www.tamak.kz/en/catalog/details/shokolad-lounge-bar/] and Ice. Chocolate is in the same building as the SAS Radisson hotel, but may only be open on selected days (I tried it on a Thursday night and it was closed). "Ice" (centrally located - ask locals for the address) has a nice atmosphere and is on two floors with a large dance area. Prices are towards the high end, no entrance fee on Thursday night.
Buy
With China relatively close, you can find many electronic gadgets in the shops, just remember that returns policies are not as customer-friendly as in the West.
Eat
'''Beshbarmak''' - a horse meat and pasta dish. Most restaurants that serve it will present a portion enough for two or three people
'''Boursaky''' - bread best served piping hot. A little like an unsweetened doughnut
'''Shashliq''' - unless you have a sturdy stomach, best to avoid unknown street vendors, but these kebabs are often cheap, and a good 'safe bet' if you recognise little else on the menu
Drink
'''Kumis''' - different varities are available of this mare's milk, some are a little salty. Slightly fermented.
'''Vodka''' - supermarkets stock a huge variety, ranging from $2 bottles that will strip your throat to $115 bottles that are more for giving as a present or showing off your wealth. Shots tend to be drunk, rather than utilising mixers - don't feel obliged to down each and every one if at a celebration.
'''Cognac''' - what we would refer to as brandy, again a wide range in the shops and restaurants. Same rules apply re. shots - with all the toasts made at parties and other gatherings, you may want to pace yourself.
'''Cafe Shimkent''' - If you want a greasy spoon style meal, with cheap prices, and a mixture of makes in the car park, rather than 4x4s, Hummers and Mercedes, head over here. Found hidden near Cinema City, just off Prospekt Respublik
Sleep
'''Okan InterContinental Astana''', 113 Abaya Avenue +7 (7172) 391-000, [http://www.ichotelsgroup.com/h/d/ic/1/en/hotel/tseha]. The first luxury hotel in Astana, the service is very good and the room quality is consistent. Singles/doubles from KZT 46000. A very good breakfast bar is included, and there are is a popular Italian restaurant (Pucchini's) and an eastern-style (Turkish) restaurant, as well as a pub on the mezzanine floor. Expensive (but fast, reliable) wireless internet, and a nicely equipped business center. A nice range of conference facilities. Unfortunately, the once nicely equipped gym (pool, exercise room/equipment, saunas) is closed through the end of 2007 for a full renovation. Located in the old area of town, within walking distance from many restaurants, it is a long way from the government buildings on the other side of the river now that the government has moved.
'''Rixos Presidents Hotel Astana'''. Make no mistake about it, this is the most luxurious hotel in Astana. For starters, standard rooms come with heated tiled floors in the bathroom, step in showers and jaccuzi tubs, LCD wide-screen television, and ''free'' wireless internet (although it is not very consistent). The service is friendly and professional. There is a bar, a cafe, and two restaurants, and the best conference facilities in Astana. The spa has the best exercise equipment in Astana, and the pool is lovely. It is in walking distance to the ministries and the better restaurants, and the breakfast buffet is more than fantastic (they've been known to put out caviar!) complete with a harpist. The main drawback? So many VIPs prefer to stay in this hotel (visiting presidents, prime ministers, and other big-wigs) that you often have to fight security to get in and out! Rooms start around $350/night.
'''Radisson SAS Hotel Astana''', Sary Arka 4, +7 (7172) 99 0000,
[http://astana.radissonsas.com/cs/Satellite/Page/RadissonSAS/Page/rsasHotelDescription/1122276561726/en/hotelCode--tsezh/]. New hotel, just north of Ishim river with 180 rooms. Singles/doubles at USD 480 including breakfast, access to fitess center but excluding current VAT. Rooms are modern design, with flat-screen TV and free internet. Wifi in the rooms can be dodgy, but there is a cable alternative, and wifi works fine in the lobby/lounge. Hotel has a reliable Italian restaurant, and a sports club/spa.
Get out