'''Big Bend National Park''' [http://www.nps.gov/bibe/] is a United States National Park in southwest Texas along the border of Mexico. Vast, rugged, and one of the least visited continental National Parks, Big Bend's three distinct ecosystems, endless views, and powerful landscapes may leave you feeling like you've stumbled onto a well-kept secret.
Understand
Big Bend National Park is named for the giant left-turn that the Rio Grande makes as it snakes through the desert - a natural boundary that gives Texas' bottom its distinct shape. Covering 1252 sq. miles but with only 350-400K visitors a year, Big Bend is one of the largest national parks in the lower 48 states yet one of the least visited. Due to the large distances that must be traversed to get to the park, as well as within it, Big Bend does not make a good day trip. For the optimal experience, spend at least one ''full'' day in the park (though two or three are better) and plan on at least one activity outside of the car, such as hiking or a guided float trip on the river, to get the full experience.
The busy season is from around mid-November to the first of week of January (especially Thanksgiving weekend and the weeks of Christmas and New Year's Day) and also during Spring Break (varies, usually a week in mid-March). Lodgings and campgrounds in the park fill up quickly during those times, so reservations should be made as far in advance as possible. Most of the park is backcountry and the brunt of activity is clustered around a few popular, developed areas, so even during the busiest times hitting a desert trail or exploring a back road is all that's needed to find solitude. The rest of the year is so uncrowded you'll often feel like you have the park to yourself.
Consider leaving your pet at home as they are not allowed on trails, off the road, or on the river. There are no kennels in the park and the temperatures and wildlife are potentially dangerous.
History
Big Bend National Park has a fascinating geological and human history that spans millenniums, the effects of which can be seen everywhere you turn. From about 300 to 100 million years ago, the entire area was covered and re-covered by receding oceans teeming with sea life, the decayed remains of which slowly built up and formed the limestone rock of which most of the park is composed. Numerous fossils from this period and the years afterward have been unearthed, such as hard-shelled sea creatures like the ammonites, giant ancient crocodiles, petrified wood, and dinosaurs such as hadrosaurs (the "duck-billed" type) and pterosaurs. In fact, the first ever intact ''Quetzalcoatlus'' specimen was discovered here in 1971; a replica of the 33ft-long beast is displayed at the Panther Junction Visitor Center. Since that time and after, a combination of major geological events causing massive uplifts, folding, and drops, volcanic activity, and erosion have shaped the park's topography into what is seen today.
The park has a history of human presence dating back to more than 10,000 years ago; for much of this time the park saw Native American tribes such as the Chisos, about which little is still known, and more recently Comanche and Mescalero Apache, who lived on or passed through these lands. In their stead they left pictographs and artifacts that can still be found throughout the park. Since the mid-1500's, Spain and then Mexico had established a presence in the area, building forts, missions, and farms nearby. In the 1800s settlers from the United States increasingly set roots here, engaging in farming, mining, and ranching, some of which persisted until as recently as the 1960s. In the 1920s the U.S. Military established a camp at Castolon to protect the area during the Mexican Civil War. Buildings and other structures from these periods still exist, whether in the forms of ruins or some that are still in use (such as the Harmonia Camp Store).
Due to the persistent lobbying of locals and others who recognized the unique nature of the land (of note is frontiersman Everett Townsend, the "father of the Big Bend National Park"), the state of Texas established Texas Canyons State Park in 1933 and renamed it later that year to Big Bend State Park. At first there were no paved roads, telephones, or other services in the park but through the efforts of many, including the Civilian Conservation Corps (a project conceived by President Franklin D. Roosevelt) some of who's efforts are still in use today, the infrastructure was slowly built up. In 1944, the land formally became Big Bend National Park and it has been slowly growing ever since. Tracts of land thousands of acres large are still being purchased and integrated into the park, including the Harte and Fay Ranch in 1989 and 1994. There are tentative plans to integrate the park more with its neighbor to the west, Big Bend Ranch State Park, including establishing trails that may connect the two.
Landscape
Big Bend National Park is a land of seemingly endless desert landscapes and rolling hills, punctuated by striking rock formations, canyons, and dominating mountains that loom near and far. Along with the ever-present winding green ribbon of the Rio Grande, Big Bend's geography forms an imposing, beautiful natural boundary between Texas and Mexico. The park's geography can be categorized into three distinct environments: desert, mountain, and river.
The majority of Big Bend National Park encompasses '''Chihuahuan Desert''', of which the lechuguilla is a major indicator species (if you see it, you're in the Chihuahuan Desert). Although arid, a variety of flora and fauna live here. Crisscrossing the desert are many arroyos (dry creek beds), washes and the occasional spring. These water sources are usually dry, so water is a very precious resource - where ever it exists, small oases of green vegetation flourish. Sprouting from the desert are numerous hills, mountains, and bodies of rock, most of which are composed of limestone but some are of volcanic origin.
The dominant water source is of course the '''Rio Grande''' (Spanish for "Big River" although in Mexico it may be referred to as "Rio Bravo del Norte" or just "Rio Bravo"), flowing south and east from its origin in Colorado and eventually passing through the park before emptying into the Gulf of Mexico after a journey of 1885 miles. Here the river forms the southern boundary of the park (118 miles long), passing through three major canyons (Santa Elena, Mariscal, and Boquillas) and through the desert, where green stands of trees, tall grasses and other Riparian life cling to its banks.
On every other side besides the southwest and a small gap in the north, '''mountains''' and other high terrain form a natural barrier around the rest of the park, including the Sierra Del Carmen to the east and the Rosillos and Santiago Mountains to the north. Within the south-central heart of the park lies the Chisos Mountains, the third tallest range in Texas (the meaning of "Chisos" is unclear - usually said to be either an American Indian word for "ghost" or "spirit", or derived from an old Castilian word for "enchanted"); the highest point in the park is Emory Peak, at 7832 ft. Behind the forbidding facade of the Chisos, the mountains form a circular wall that preserves an ancient, delicate ecosystem within the Chisos Basin, sheltering forests of rare trees and other wildlife.
Flora and fauna
Big Bend National Park has an exceptional array of wildlife and flora, including some endangered species and others that can be found nowhere else in the United States. In the desert you will find a variety of '''plant life''', including succulents such as lechuguilla (a type of agave), yuccas like the impressive giant dagger yucca (you can find a "forest" of them at the end of the Dagger Flat Auto Trail), and numerous types of cacti such as prickly pear. You will also find numerous grasses and shrubs such as ocotillo, candellila, cenizo, creosote, chilicote, and sotol. Cacti and may of the other plants have gorgeous blooms; the best time of year to see them is in April. The mountains shelter a number of "relic" species, leftover from a time when the area was cooler and wetter but now can only be found in more northern regions and here in the Chisos. Visitors may be pleasantly surprised to find forests of juniper, ponderosa pines, pinon pine, douglas fir, Texas madrone, quaking aspen, the unique Chisos Oak (one of five Oak species here) and many more. Also in the mountains the famous century plant (or Havard agave) can be found, which only bloom once in a lifetime and then die. The mountains are also a great place to see wildflowers bloom in March and April. Along the river grows numerous tall grasses such as willows and pleasant stands of trees including cottonwood and mesquite.
Not only is the animal life in Big Band National Park plentiful, but it is also one of the best '''bird-watching''' areas in the country as many birds pass through here on their yearly migratory routes - more than 450 species. Big Bend is the only place in the United States where you can spot the colima warbler (check Boot Canyon along the South Rim trail from mid-April to mid-September). In general, the Chisos Basin is a great place for birdwatching but the best place is considered to be at the Rio Grande Village and Cottonwood Campground. Among the countless species you can find in the park include roadrunners, woodpeckers, cardinals, quail, flycatchers, herons, hummingbirds, wrens, cliff swallows, owls, hawks, golden eagles, vultures, and peregrine falcons.
In the desert and in the mountains you will find many other '''animals''' such as javelinas (which look like wild pigs but are actually not related), mule deer, jackrabbits, skunks, raccoons, rock squirrels, kangaroo rats, coyote, foxes, and, exclusively in the mountains, black bears, mountain lions (or "panthers" around these parts), and white-tailed deer. In fact, there's a good chance you'll see some of them while driving along the road or even in the developed areas (especially starting at twilight and on until mid-morning). You will also find snakes such as the "red racer" (western coachwhip), garter snakes, huge bull snakes (which have a rattle like a rattlesnake but are not dangerous), and, very rarely, a small variety of venomous rattlesnakes. Lizards include the common whiptails, crevice spiny lizards, and earless lizards, although rarer species including the Texas horned lizard and large leopard and collared lizards might also be seen. Around the river live turtles such as the Big Bend slider, amphibians such as the leopard toad, mammals such as beavers, and fish such as catfish and garfish. The endangered Mexican long-nosed bat is found only in the Chisos Mountains in the United States, while the entire world's population of Big Bend mosquitofish (or Gambusia) exists in only one pond near the Rio Grande Village.
Climate
Being a desert, expect the weather to be mostly hot and dry, with low humidity. In the Chisos Basin and other high areas temperatures are about 10__F cooler; likewise, in the lowest areas such as along the river (especially within the river canyons) it may be 10__F warmer. The temperature can drop significantly at night. Summer is considered the rainy season, where sudden downpours, spectacular lightning displays, and flash flooding are all possible, though rain does not usually last long and the water drains away quickly. Thunderstorms can make for an epic spectacle and the wet weather gives visitors the chance to see rare sights, such as Pine Canyon Falls. The weather at Big Bend National Park is often significantly different from nearby areas; it can be overcast and rainy in nearby Alpine but clear and sunny in the park, so don't get too discouraged by conditions in other parts of Texas.
'''Spring and Fall''': These are the seasons most travelers visit; the weather is mild and temperatures are more bearable. It can get quite windy in the spring, while the fall experiences rain until around September-October. Temperatures range from the 50s__F to the 80s__F.
'''Winter''': Early winter (especially December) is another popular time for visitors; expect cool weather interspersed with pleasant warm spells and occasional cold snaps - light snow is not unheard of. Nights can be particularly cold. Average temperatures range from the 30s__F to the 60s__F.
'''Summer''': This is the least busy season for travelers as temperatures can be brutal, often topping 100__F. May and June are the hottest months. Temperatures range from the high 80s__F to the 110s__F.
Get in
Big Bend National Park is one of the most remote parks in the United States. There is no public transportation into the park so a car or bike is required. Services between towns are limited to non-existent and distances are vast, so be sure to be stocked up on gas, water, and other essentials before setting out. However, roads are in good condition and points of interest are well-marked (qualities generally shared throughout the Texas highway system).
Driving in the area, especially during non-peak seasons, may make you feel like you're the last person on Earth but don't let that lull you into thinking it's safe to speed -- the roads are regularly patrolled by cops. Also, the roads are scenic and sometimes quite curvy so it pays to take it easy.
All major routes now have Border Patrol checkpoints, although they are not always manned. If there is a flashing light, you'll have to stop and you may get asked a few questions or inspected but it's generally not a hassle if you've got nothing to hide.
There are two entrances to the park and three main routes to reach them:
'''US-385''' south from Marathon. This is the fastest route when approaching from points east. This route leads to the north entrance of the park at Persimmon Gap after about 40 miles, then another 30 miles south to park headquarters.
'''TX-118''' south from Alpine. This is the quickest route from the west. There is a bit more development along this stretch compared to the Marathon route but they are equally scenic. The small communities of Study Butte-Terlinqua lie near the end of the route. Shortly afterwards the west entrance to the park is reached at Maverick Junction (about 75 miles to this point, then another 25 miles east to park headquarters).
'''Ranch Road 170''' east from Presidio. This is arguably the most scenic approach and the quickest route to Big Bend if coming from Mexico or if you're already in Presidio; otherwise, it's the slowest route. Also called the River Road (not to be confused with the River Road located within Big Bend National Park), this route follows the Rio Grande River along the bottom edge of Big Bend Ranch State Park, hemmed in by foreboding mountains. In sections it's akin to a roller coaster ride and can get very steep; not recommended for the faint of heart or those driving RVs or other long vehicles. Towards the end you'll pass Lajitas and then join up with Tex. 118 near Study Butte-Terlingua, for a distance of about 65 miles to that junction, then another 30 or so to park headquarters.
Big Bend National Park can be a challenge to get to since it's not really near anything. To reach the gateway towns of Marathon or Alpine, there are several options. The nearest commercial airports are:
'''Midland International Airport (MAF)''' [http://www.midlandinternational.com/] at Midland, considered the gateway to the Big Bend region. From Midland-Odessa, take I-20 west then TX-18 south to Fort Stockton. From there take U.S. 385 south to Marathon (~230 miles total).
'''Del Rio International Airport (DRT)''' [http://www.cityofdelrio.com/index.asp?nid=58] at Del Rio. From Del Rio simply take US-90 west to Marathon (~240 miles total).
'''San Angelo Regional Airport (SJT)''' [http://www.mathisfield.com/] at San Angelo. From San Angelo take US-67 south to I-10, then head west until Fort Stockton and take US-385 south to Marathon (~300 miles total).
'''El Paso International Airport (ELP)''' [http://www.elpasointernationalairport.com/] at El Paso, which is also the nearest large city. From El Paso, take I-10 east to Van Horn, then take US-90 southeast through Marfa then to Alpine - it will turn into US-67 en route (~330 miles total).
There is also a small airport at Lajitas but it does not appear to be open to the public yet.
It is also feasible to drive from one of the other major cities of Texas. If you're attempting the drive from points further afield, simply plot your course to one of these gateways first then follow the route as described.
From San Antonio, you have two options. The fastest route is to take I-10 west to Fort Stockton then take US-385 south to Marathon (~440 miles total). The other option is technically shorter, less crowded, and much more scenic, but is slower due to lower speed limits. From San Antonio, take US-90 west through [{Del Rio then continue to Marathon (~397 miles total). Also keep in mind on this route, there are no services after Del Rio until you reach tiny Sanderson (a drive of about 120 miles).
From Austin, take U.S. 290 west until you reach I-10, then continue west until Fort Stockton, as on the San Antonio route (~465 miles total).
From Dallas/Fort Worth, take I-20 west to Midland-Odessa then take TX-18 south to Fort Stockton. From there take US-385 south to Marathon (~570 miles total).
Fees/Permits
Vehicle: $20 for a seven day pass good at any park entrance.
Individual (by bicycle, motorcycle, or on foot): $10 for a seven day pass.
Children (15 and under): Free
Group fees are also available, contact the park for details.
Backcountry Permits
Depending on your planned activities, you may need to obtain a backcountry permit before venturing out. Certain types of day-use, such as floating the river or traveling by horse, necessitate a permit but it's free of cost. However, for any overnight backcountry use the required permit is $10. There's no reason not to get one; it goes to a good cause (maintaining the backcountry for future visitor use) and helps keep you safe. The park will record your itinerary and other information, such as your shoe print, that will make you easier to find in case of an emergency plus give you critical information on current trail and road conditions.
Backcountry permits are good for up to 14 consecutive nights. The permit can be obtained up to 24 hours in advance at any park visitor center ''during business hours'' (at park headquarters at Panther Junction, the hours are 8AM-6PM - other visitor centers have variable hours). '''If you arrive after business hours, you are not allowed to camp in the backcountry'''. In addition, they can only purchased in person, on-site. If you arrive by car, you must have a license plate. Camping at developed campgrounds and day hiking do not require a permit; if you're unsure whether you need one or not, inquire at the park.
Get around
There are two main roads in the park: '''TX-118''', which travels from the park's '''west entrance''' near Maverick Junction (no visitor center here) eastbound 23 miles until it meets the other main road, '''US-385''', in a T-junction. This intersection is called '''Panther Junction'''; the park headquarters are located here, as well as a visitor center and gas station. TX-118 continues southeast past Panther Junction and ends after 20 miles at '''Rio Grande Village''', which also has a visitor center, campgrounds, gas, as well as other services. Back at the junction, US-385 begins here and heads northwards for 26 miles to the '''north entrance''', where there is another visitor center, near '''Persimmon Gap'''. TX-118 to US-385 (and vice-versa) form the shortest route through the park.
One of the two other important paved roads to know is the '''Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive''', which branches off southwards from TX-118 about 13 miles west from Panther Junction and 10 miles east of the western entrance. The curve-filled drive passes through '''Castolon''' after 22 miles, where a visitor center, campgrounds, and other services are found, and ends after another 8 miles at '''Santa Elena Canyon'''.
The other is the '''Chisos Basin Road'''; which branches southward from TX-118 20 miles east of the west entrance, 10 miles east of the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive turn-off, and 3 miles west of Panther Junction. This steep, curvy road climbs for 6 miles into the Chisos Basin and ends at the '''Chisos Mountains Lodge''', where a visitor center is located as well as dining, lodging, campgrounds, and other services.
By car
This is the most common (and often only) option for the majority of travelers and it's a good way to negotiate the vast expanses. The park speed limit is 45 mph/72 kph and it's a good idea to follow it, as the road is often shared by cyclists, wildlife, and, unfortunately, the occasional drunk driver (accidents involving them constitute the number one cause of fatalities in the park). The paved roads are well-marked and maintained; however, even some of the busy roads are steep and have blind curves, so caution should always be exercised. The '''Chisos Basin Road''' is not recommended for trailers longer than 20 feet or RVs longer than 24 feet. The network of unpaved backroads hold some routes suitable for any car but many require a high-clearance or 4-WD vehicle to drive safely; always inquire at the park about current road conditions. Note that all-terrain vehicles (ATVs) are not allowed in the park.
By bicycle
Biking is a good (but strenuous) way to see the park at a slower pace and be totally engulfed by your surroundings. However, exercise caution on the main roads (especially in the busier seasons); blind curves and careless drivers are some of the obstacles you will face. Bicycles are only allowed on park roads (paved or unpaved). Traveling by bicycle, like hiking, requires ample preparation and fitness; be sure to carry plenty of water, a repair kit, a first aid kit, and maps (especially if traveling the unpaved back roads). '''Desert Sports''' offers bike rentals and tours (see Do).
By horse
Although there are currently no outfitters renting out horses, visitors are permitted to travel through the park on their own horse (yes, B.Y.O.H.). A backcountry permit is required and horses are not permitted on paved roads (or on the shoulder). Many of the developed trails and certain areas of the Chisos Mountains are off-limits and grazing is not permitted; contact the park for more details. Camping is restricted to backcountry sites; a worthwhile spot is the '''Government Springs Campsite''', which has a corral and lies about 3 miles north of Panther Junction.
On foot
Although many of the park's features can only be reached on foot via one of the many excellent hiking trails, traveling by foot as a general means to get around the park at large should only be attempted by the well-prepared and very fit.
See
Anyone picturing some sort of fantasia-in-stone like Utah's national parks or an austere desolation like Death Valley may come away disappointed. Rather, Big Bend's sprawling desert vistas and rocky outcrops and peaks are the type of landscape that at first remind you how seemingly small and puny we are in the big scheme of things; that is, until you round a corner and stumble onto hidden pockets of life, diverse and vibrant, often where you least suspect it. That, coupled with the park's uncommonly rich natural and human history, leaves Big Bend National Park in a class all its own.
It is possible to see the major sections of Big Bend in a day's worth of driving but that would be missing the point; Big Bend rewards the patient traveler. It is well worth the effort to hang around a bit longer, venture off the paved roads, and let the grandiosity of it all sink in. Afterward, after a bit of pondering, you may come to realize (as many others have) that there is really no other place like it on earth.
'''Santa Elena Canyon''', via the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive
'''Chisos Mountains Basin'''
'''Castolon Historic District'''
Do
You may hear it again and again from locals and Big Bend National Park veterans: the best way to truly experience the park is to step out of the car and do something. And it's true! Driving through the park can give you a good feel for the park, but it's not until you stop, take a breath, and engulf yourself in the desert environment before the park's true beauty and hidden treasures reveal themselves. There are activities to fit any age or physical condition, from short day hikes to multi-week affairs floating the river. To make things really easy, go on a (free!) daily ranger-led program or arrange a guided tour with any of the excellent local outfitters. The important thing is to get out there!
Driving the Backroads
Here, sometimes driving Big Bend's network of rugged, unpaved backroads is an adventure unto itself. They can take you to historical sites, trails, and other remote areas of the park that are otherwise inaccessible. No matter which road you take, expect a bumpy ride; come prepared and be sure to take it slow. Road signage is generally very good in the park.
Improved Roads
In optimal conditions, these dirt roads are passable to any vehicle. Weather can significantly degrade their condition, sometimes making them impassable to sedans and the like; always be sure to ask about road conditions first.
'''Croton Spring Road''' (2 miles round-trip). This short road leads to two backcountry campsites; the turn-off is 9 miles west of Panther Junction on TX-118 and heads north.
'''Dagger Flat Auto Trail''' (14 miles round-trip). An intriguing "trail" that winds eastwards to a forest of otherwise-rare giant dagger yucca. They can potentially bloom anytime of year but March and April are generally a good time to see flowers blooming in the park in general. The park also offers a trail-guide for $1 at visitor centers. The turn-off is on US-385 about midway between Panther Junction and Persimmon Gap; the road is narrow and takes about 2 hours total.
'''Grapevine Hills Road''' (15.4 miles round-trip). Most significantly, a road that leads to the Grapevine Hills trail-head (about 7 miles). The road continues a bit further to a backcountry campsite but may be too rough for sedans. The turn-off is about 3 miles west of Panther Junction on TX-118 and heads north.
'''Hot Springs Road''' (4 miles round-trip). A narrow road that leads most of the way to the Hot Springs (there's another half-mile hike after that). This road is not recommended for RVs and other overly large vehicles. The well-marked turn-off is near Rio Grande Village on the southwestern leg of TX-118.
'''Old Maverick Road''' (14 miles one-way). A long, flat road that connects TX-118 near the park's west entrance to the Ross Maxwell Scenic Road near Santa Elena Canyon. En route there are a few backcountry campsites, the trail-head for one end of the Chimneys Trail, as well as some historical sites such as Luna's Jacal (worth a look). Plan on about an hour of driving.
'''Paint Gap Road''' (5 miles round-trip). This road heads towards the Paint Gap Hills to several backcountry campsites, eventually entering the Gap itself where it is very rough. Vehicles that are not high-clearance should turn back after the PG-3 campsite. The turn-off is about 6 miles west of Panther Junction on TX-118 and heads north.
Primitive Dirt Roads
For true adventure, driving the more remote and less maintained "primitive" dirt roads are the way to go - with the right vehicle and preparation. These roads are rough, bumpy, sandy, rocky, or worse and require a high-clearance vehicle; sometimes four-wheel drive (4WD) is also required (and is always optimal). Like the Improved Roads, weather can significantly degrade their condition, sometimes making them impassable for any vehicle; always be sure to ask about road conditions first.
'''Black Gap Road''' (8.5 miles one-way). Driving Black Gap Road really is an adventure unto itself; this road is totally unmaintained and crosses extremely rugged country (and is scenic to boot). Not only is a 4WD vehicle mandatory, but 4WD experience is also necessary. Black Gap Road connects Glenn Spring Road (about 7 miles from its north entrance or 8.5 miles from its south entrance) to the River Road East, about 21 miles from its entrance near Rio Grande Village. A backcountry campsite is found along the way.
'''Glenn Springs Road''' (16 miles one-way). This road winds its way between the Chisos and Chilicotal Mountains towards the ruins of the small village that serves as the road's namesake. The north end of the road intersects with TX-118 about 4.5 miles east of Panther Junction (just west of the Dugout Wells turn-off) and ends at the River Road, 9.6 miles from its eastern start point. Glenn Springs Road also serves as a connector to several other roads, including the 4 mile-long Pine Canyon Road (the turn-off lies 2.3 miles from the TX-118 northern start point) which leads to the Pine Canyon trail-head and the 5.3 mile-long Juniper Canyon Road (4.5 miles south of the Pine Canyon Road turn-off; 4WD required) which leads to the Dodson and Juniper Canyon trail-heads. Along the way are several backcountry campsites as well, including the Pine Canyon and Juniper Canyon side roads.
'''Old Ore Road''' (26 miles one-way). A long, scenic road that provides close-up views of the hills and mountains to the east and was once a mining transport route. Several backcountry campsites and trail-heads lie along the way, including the Ernst Tinaja Trail near the southern terminus. The north end of Old Ore Road begins at the Dagger Flat Auto Trail (about 2 miles from its entrance) and heads southward before ending at TX-118 near Rio Grande Village. 4WD is recommended; allow a half-day or more.
'''The River Road''' (51 miles one-way). An epically long road that spans the remote southern portion of the park, generally (sometimes only vaguely) following the course of the Rio Grande. For some Big Bend adventurers, driving the length of the road is a rite of passage. Along the way are many side roads, backcountry campsites, trail-heads to some of the park's most isolated areas (including the Mariscal Canyon Trail), and sections of the park most visitors never see. The east end of the River Road lies off of TX-118 near Rio Grande Village, just west of the Hot Springs Road turn-off while the west end intersects with at the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive near Tuff Canyon, about 2.5 miles east of Castolon (both turn-offs are marked). The western portion is less traveled and more rugged; allow at least a day to travel the entire length.
Floating the River
One of the quintessential Big Bend experiences is floating the Rio Grande through one of its marvelous canyons, whether it be on a raft, by canoe, or by kayak. Side canyons and hikes await for the adventurous, and a variety of trip lengths are possible, from half a day to more than a week. You can bring in your own equipment or rent from a tour operator. For novices and those who don't want to bother with the logistics, a guided river trip is highly recommended. Travelers of any age can participate; with raft tours, they all do the work while you sit back and relax. Self-paddled kayaking and canoeing are easy enough here for even first-timers to pick up and offer satisfying freedom.
Be sure to have essential safety equipment: life vests, extra oars/paddles, first aid kit, and patch kit/pump (for inflatable watercraft). Tour operators provide most or all of these for free. Water levels affect what is possible on your trip, so be sure to inquire about it at the park or with your tour company. Generally, the higher the water level is, the faster the river is flowing and certain sections may become rougher. Low levels might make it impractical to float by raft, for example, but make paddling upriver (so-called "boomerang" trips) a possibility. A backcountry permit is also required for any river-use; they can be obtained at the Panther Junction Visitor Center. There are many park guidelines to be followed and certain take-outs are on private land and require permission, so be sure to inquire ahead.
'''Boquillas Canyon'''. 33 miles (2-4 days). This route offers the longest but most gentle journey, rated as a Class I-II. Like all sections, there are plenty of sights and possible hikes along the way. The customary put-in is at Rio Grande Village with a take-out outside of the park at Heath Canyon near La Linda, Mexico - reached by following FM-2627 southeast for 28 miles (the turn-off is just north of the Persimmon Gap park entrance).
'''Mariscal Canyon'''. 10 miles (1-2 days). The shortest canyon and also the most remote, Mariscal offers the most solitude. Depending on the water level this trip is considered Class II-III, with one small rapid called The Tight Squeeze. The put-in (Talley) and take-out (Solis) are both reached from the unpaved River Road; count on a rough 2 to 2.5 hour drive requiring a high-clearance, preferably 4-wheel drive vehicle. The little-traveled section between Santa Elena Canyon and Mariscal is sometimes called "The Great Unknown".
'''Santa Elena Canyon'''. 20 miles (1-3 days). Undoubtedly the most popular trip (and some say most spectacular). This section is usually Class II-III, except during high-water levels where a rapid called Rock Slide can be Class IV. Fern Canyon, about 3 miles downstream from Rock Slide (or 2 miles upstream from the other end of the canyon), is a popular stop for exploring. The usual put-in is at Lajitas, outside of the park, and the take-out is near Castolon, off of the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive.
'''The Lower Canyons'''. 83-115 miles (10-15 days). For the truly adventurous, this marathon trip offers a scenic yet little seen section of Big Bend country. Although not inside park boundaries, this section of the Rio Grande (69 miles of which is designated by the government as Wild & Scenic River) is administered by Big Bend National Park. This trip requires lots of preparation: the take-outs require permission, some sections may need to portaged, special camping restrictions exist, and release forms must be filled out for this trip (not to mention the logistics of food, water, and shuttling) - beginners should definitely consider going with a tour operator. The put-in is at Heath Canyon near La Linda, Mexico (see the Boquillas Canyon entry) and there are multiple take-outs - Dryden Crossing (south of Dryden, TX) or Foster's Ranch (between Dryden and Langtry, TX) are the most common and both are on private land.
Hiking
Hiking is one of the best ways to experience Big Bend National Park. First-time visitors should try to work in at least one mountain trail and one desert trail to fully understand the park's diversity. For those on a very tight schedule or with limited mobility, there are several very short "nature trails" that are recommended, including the Window View mountain trail and the Chihuahuan and Rio Grande Village desert trails. For something a little more involved, the Lost Mine and Window Trails are popular in the mountains while the Santa Elena Canyon Trail is almost a no-brainer destination for the desert. Although they are a bit more involved to reach, the Grapevine Trail, Pine Canyon Trail, and Ernst Tinaja are also popular desert destinations.
Trail maps and topographic maps (for backcountry trails) can be purchased at the various visitor centers; certain popular trails have booklets that go into great detail about the trail for $1 or less which can either be purchased at the nearby visitor center or sometimes from little boxes near the trail-head. Some of the paths on the desert hikes are marked by rock cairns (piles of rocks). Most of the trails, desert or mountain, offer minimal to no shade. Always make sure to bring plenty of water and dress smartly!
Chisos Basin Hikes
'''Window View Trail'''. Easy (0.3 miles round-trip). Flat, paved and wheelchair-accessible. A good, short introductory hike that offers good sunset views. Trail-head can be found at the Chisos Basin Lodge.
'''Window Trail'''. Moderate (There are two trail-heads: From the Chisos Basin Lodge it is 5.6 miles round-trip. From the Basin Campground - Site 52 it is 4.4 miles round-trip). Among the more popular trails. Descends to a gap in the Chisos Basin Mountains ("The Window"), revealing a stupendous view down to the desert far below framed by enormous cliffs. There is some rock-scrambling at the very end and you may get your feet wet. The end point is a water pour-off; it is likely not safe to hike this trail during or after a rain. Keep in mind the descent is easier and quicker than the ascent all the way back.
'''Lost Mine Trail'''. Moderate (4.8 miles round-trip). Among the more popular trails. Climbs higher and higher along ridges, offering spectacular views of the surrounding mountains and the desert starting about 1/3 of the way through (you can even turn around about this point to make a good, shorter day-hike). A hike to the very end rewards you with the highest vantage points and a chance to scramble on some precipitous and unusual rock faces. The trail-head is on a marked pull-off on the way towards the Chisos Mountain Lodge.
'''Emory Peak Trail'''. Strenuous (9.0 miles round-trip). Leads to the highest point in Big Bend National Park with (of course) spectacular views as your reward. The trail-head begins at the Chisos Basin Lodge. Take the Pinnacle Trails up 3.5 miles, at which point you'll see the side trail to Emory Peak. The last part requires a rock-scramble up a steep wall (but it's worth it).
'''The South Rim'''. Strenuous (~12 miles round-trip). The South Rim is somewhat of a classic for those ready to take it to the next level; this trail leads to wide, stunning views down to the desert and far off into the distance. Can be done in a day if you're fit and start early, but best as a 1-night backpacking trek. There are multiple route options here; the trail-heads are at the Chisos Basin Lodge; start either at the Pinnacles Trail or Laguna Meadow Trail (both form part of a big loop). If you have the time and stamina, you can also add the Emory Peak Trail to your itinerary since it's along the way (add 2 miles total, 1 purely vertical). Another option is to explore the East Rim Trail sections to get the full Rim Experience (tack on an extra 3.3 miles total). The turn-offs are marked along the way on the main trail; however, know that a portion of the East Rim Trail (the Southeast Rim Trail) is closed to hiking during the peregrine falcon breeding season (February 1st to July 15th).
North Desert Hikes
'''Panther Path'''. Easy (0.1 miles round-trip). A pleasant, short hike in front of the Panther Junction visitor center.
'''Grapevine Hills Trail'''. Easy (2.2 miles round-trip). Requires driving a dirt road to the trail-head, but is usually suitable even for sedans. Take the Grapevine Hills Road turn-off 3.3 miles west of Panther Junction and follow it for about 7 miles. A neat balanced-rock formation is at the end (you may have seen it in various Texas guidebooks and brochures).
'''Dog Canyon Trail'''. Moderate (4.0 miles round-trip). Leads into Dog Canyon from the trail-head about 3.5 miles south of the Persimmon Gap visitor center. There is an exhibit at the trail-head, you'll be able to see Dog Canyon in the distance. Requires some path-finding, a map may be a good idea.
'''Devil's Den '''. Moderate to Strenuous (6.0 miles round-trip). This actually shares the same trail-head and part of the path with Dog Canyon Trail. About 1.5 miles in there will be a fork in the trail (and a sign) that will point the way. Requires some path-finding, a map may be a good idea.
West Desert Hikes
'''Tuff Canyon Trail'''. Easy (0.75 miles round-trip). Take the well-marked turn-off before Castolon (headed towards Santa Elena Canyon). There are viewpoints here but you can also hike down into the canyon; just follow the signs.
'''Bottom of the Burro Mesa Pour-Off Trail'''. Easy (1.0 miles round-trip). You'll see a turn-off for the Burro Mesa Pour-Off between the Sotol Vista Overlook and the Mule Ears Viewpoint along the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive. Follow the road 1.5 miles to get to the trail-head. Requires a bit of path finding - rock cairns mark which way to go through the washes. Along the way you'll notice a giant rock formation that looks quite like a sideways sandwich and of course the enormous pour-off at the end. A different trail will take you to the top (see entry).
'''Santa Elena Canyon Trail'''. Easy to Moderate (1.7 miles round-trip). Among the more popular trails - a definite must-see. Follow the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive to the end, past Castolon. Near the parking area you can get great views of the canyon but to get the best views, cross the creek (Terlingua Creek) towards the right-hand wall of the canyon. You'll likely see other people already doing so; just follow them (it is possible for the creek to become too high to cross; if there's any doubt at all, do not attempt). Requires a fair amount of stair climbing initially, then the trail descends and finally ends within the canyon, by the river side.
'''Red Rocks (Blue Creek) Canyon'''. Moderate (3.0 miles round-trip). A scenic trail through a large canyon; the eponymous red rocks can be seen at the end. The trail continues after that very steeply up into the Chisos Basin but this is only for hardcore backpackers. The trail-head is at the Homer Wilson (Blue Creek) Ranch Overlook turn-off from the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive.
'''Upper Burro Mesa Pour-Off Trail'''. Moderate (3.6 miles round-trip). A very scenic trail that leads to the top of the Burro Mesa Pour-Off (a different trail will take you to the bottom - see entry). The trail-head is found 6.9 miles south of the beginning of the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive. Requires some path-finding and rock-scrambling. Do not attempt during or just after rains.
'''Ward Spring Trail'''. Moderate (3.6 miles round-trip). Leads through the desert to a pleasant spring. The trail-head can be found at mile-marker 5.5 along the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive. Requires some path-finding.
'''Mule Ears Spring Trail'''. Moderate (3.8 miles round-trip). A trail with great views of the Mule Ears formation that leads to a spring. The trail-head starts at the well-marked Mule Ears Overlook turn-off along the Maxwell Scenic Drive. Requires some path-finding.
'''The Chimneys Trail'''. Moderate to Strenuous (4.8 miles round-trip). Leads to a series of "chimneys"; rock pinnacles formed through volcanic activity. There's also Indian art on the chimneys. The trail continues far past the chimneys and eventually leads to the unpaved Old Maverick Road which becomes an extremely long hike, instead just go back the way you came after visiting the chimneys. The trail-head is marked, about 1.2 miles south of the Burro Mesa Pour-Off turnoff on the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive.
East Desert Hikes
'''Chihuahuan Desert Nature Trail'''. Easy (0.5 miles round-trip). A pleasant jaunt through the desert with several old man-made structures nearby, including a windmill. Located at the end of the Dugout Wells turn-off, about 5 miles east of Panther Junction.
'''Rio Grande Village Natural Trail'''. Easy (0.75 miles round-trip). Short and easy; an excellent showcase of one of Big Bend's 3 major ecosystems - the river. The trail-head is located near the Rio Grande Village visitor center; keep going a bit and find campsite #18 (there should be signs). May be temporarily closed if there has been recent heavy flooding.
'''Boquillas Canyon Trail'''. Easy (1.4 miles round-trip). A great, relatively short and easy hike that goes into the mouth of Boquillas Canyon. There is a short hike up a hill and then a descent towards the river and the canyon, through sand and lots of rocks (trail may be washed out after flooding; no problem, just find your own trail towards the canyon). Although impressive, it is perhaps less wow-inducing than the more popular Santa Elena Canyon so you may want to consider hiking this trail first if you plan on doing both (or skip this one entirely if you're short on time). On the road towards Rio Grande Village, there will be a well-marked side-road that leads to the trailhead.
'''Ernst Tinaja'''. Easy (1.4 miles round-trip). Another relatively short and easy hike that takes you on a scenic journey to a large tinaja; a large natural hole in the rocks that holds water. This is definitely a great hike to take if you can make it to the trail-head; a high-clearance vehicle is required. On the way to the Rio Grande Village there will be a well-marked turn-off for Old Ore Road (unpaved), take it and drive until you see the Ernst Tinaja turn-off (there is also a primitive campsite there) - this is the fastest route.
'''Hot Springs Canyon Trail'''. Easy to Moderate depending on trail-head (1.0 miles round-trip from Hot Springs Road or 3.0 miles round-trip from Rio Grande Village). A pretty trail that follows the tree-lined Rio Grande to the historic Hot Springs. Note there are two trail-heads; one at either end of the trail with the Springs in between. The shorter is at the end of Hot Springs Road and is preferred if you are more interested in the springs themselves than the hiking. The trail-head for the longer hike is in the Rio Grande Village area (right at the '''Daniels Ranch''') and can be a bit rough in the warmer months. See the separate Hot Springs entry for information on the springs themselves.
'''Pine Canyon Trail'''. Moderate (4.0 miles round-trip). A scenic, moderately difficult hike that leads from the desert to Pine Canyon where, if there's been any rain, you'll find the crowd-pleasing Pine Canyon Falls. A high-clearance vehicle is required to reach trail-head; on the main road towards Rio Grande Village, there will be a well-marked turn-off for Pine Canyon Road (unpaved). Take the turn and follow it to the end to get to the trail-head (ignore the turn-off for Glenn Spring Road en route). There also several primitive camping sites along the way.
'''Ore Terminal Trail'''. Strenuous (8.0 miles round-trip). A tough trail that showcases many impressive old mining ruins. The marked trail-head can be found along the Boquillas Canyon road, near the Boquillas Canyon Overlook turn-off (the Marufo Vega trail-head is also found here). Path-finding required.
'''Marufo Vega Trail'''. Strenuous (14.0 miles round-trip). An even tougher trail through truly breathtaking desert scenery. The marked trail-head can be found along the Boquillas Canyon road, near the Boquillas Canyon Overlook turn-off (the Ore Terminal trail-head is also found here). As with any long desert trail, it's a bad (and potentially deadly) idea to hike it in the summer. Path-finding required. See here[http://www.nps.gov/bibe/planyourvisit/bc_marufovega.htm] before attempting.
Other Desert Hikes
'''Mariscal Canyon Rim Trail'''. Strenuous (6.6 miles round-trip). Requires a high-clearance vehicle to reach the trail-head (take the Talley Road spur off of the River Road), located on the remote, extreme south-side of the park. Rugged terrain, path-finding required.
'''The Mesa de Anguila'''. Strenuous. Very rugged, remote, and primitive with expansive views from the extreme southwest-side of the park. See here[http://www.nps.gov/bibe/planyourvisit/bc_mda.htm] before attempting. Trail-head is accessed from nearby Lajitas (behind the golf course). The Resort there also offers a guided tour along a section of this route.
'''Outer Mountain Loop'''. Strenuous (30.0 miles round-trip). A somewhat notorious trek for the hardcore backpacker, involving hiking through the desert up into the Chisos Basin mountains and then back down into the desert again to form a huge loop. Needless to say, rugged and extremely challenging. As with any long desert trail, it's a bad (and potentially deadly) idea to hike it in the summer. Preparation is a must, inquire at the park before undertaking (also see here[http://www.nps.gov/bibe/planyourvisit/oml-itinerary.htm]).
Soaking in the Hot Springs
A reminder of the park's past volcanic turmoil, the '''Langford Hot Springs''' (or just say "hot springs"; everyone will know what you're talking about) is a small, jacuzzi-sized pool of naturally occuring 105__F water from deep below the earth. The spring had been long known locally for its supposed healing powers and became somewhat of a tourist site in the early 20th century due to the entrepreneurial efforts of one J.O. Langford. All that's left is the foundations, but it still makes for a fine place to soak after a long day (especially underneath the stars).
The springs lie in the southwestern region of the park off of TX-118 near Rio Grande Village. There are two ways to reach it: Hot Springs Road or the Hot Springs Canyon Trail; both involve at least some hiking, so be sure to come dressed appropriately. The springs are literally right next to the Rio Grande and can be completely engulfed by the river if it floods. After a flood, the springs can be filled with sand and other debris. In addition, the spring waters contain several trace elements from its source underground; although the healing powers of the spring are often attributed to this fact, it is probably best not to drink the spring water and some people may find their skin sensitive to it.
Tour Operators / Outfitters
For Big Bend novices or anyone who doesn't want to deal with the hassle, going with a local tour operator is highly recommended. They each have years of experience and not only love their jobs, but also the Big Bend region. They can show you places and give you factual tidbits that only locals would know. For tours, it's good to inquire ahead as far in advance as possible, especially about what supplies they provide (safety equipment and meals are a definite) but also what they ''do not'' provide (i.e. what you have to bring in). Not only can tours be arranged, but equipment rentals are also offered for those with an independent streak, along with very useful shuttling services to just about any destination.
'''Big Bend River Tours'''[http://www.bigbendrivertours.com/], 800-545-4240. The oldest tour operator; they offer guided river (natch), hiking, and backroad tours. They also have fun specials on river trips during holidays and other times of the year.
'''Desert Sports'''[http://www.desertsportstx.com/], 888-989-6900. Desert Sports offers guided river and hiking trips and are unique in that they also specialize in nifty mountain bike tours, rental, and repair.
'''Far Flung Outdoor Center'''[http://www.farflungoutdoorcenter.com/], 800-839-7238. This company offers guided river trips and jeep tours (and ATV tours, but not in the park due to restricted use). They also offer specialty river tours, which may include gourmet dining, wine tasting, live local music, family tours, stargazing and more.
The resort at Lajitas also offers various guided tours through the park via '''Red Rock Outfitters''' (among many other activities), although the services are provided to guests only.
In addition, the park provides daily ranger-led programs for free, which can include a variety of activities and topics. The schedule is constantly changing and often-times a flashlight is required (one can be purchased at the park if need be). It's also possible to hire a park ranger for a personal tour although you must arrange transportation yourself. The going rate is $35/hour with a 4 hour minimum and reservations must be made in advance at 432-477-1108.
Buy
Supplies and groceries, though available, are often limited in selection. The nearest town with chain retailers is Alpine.
'''La Harmonia Store''', 432-477-2222. Built in 1902, it's a historic establishment that sells groceries, supplies, and souvenirs. Located in the Castolon Historic District, near the end of the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive on the southwestern side of the park. Requires driving a curvy and occasionally steep road (22 miles).
'''Chisos Mountains Lodge''', 432-477-2291. Here you'll find a camp store with supplies and groceries, and a dedicated gift shop (along with dining and lodging in the same complex). Located at the end of the Chisos Basin Drive near the central section of the park. Requires driving up an often very steep, curvy road into the mountains (6 miles).
'''Rio Grande Village Store''', 432-477-2293. Carries supplies, groceries, and gifts. Coin-operated showers are also nearby. Located at the Rio Grande Village complex; a 20 miles drive southeast from Panther Junction (i.e. the eastern terminus of TX-118).
Gas/Petrol
Expect gas in the area to be pricier than the national average. Always remember to fill up before setting out as distances between services are large.
'''Panther Junction Service Station''', 432-477-2294. Sells gas (including diesel), limited groceries, and can even do minor repairs. Conveniently located on the main road at Panther Junction which is the crossroads of TX-118 to Alpine/Presidio and US-385 north to Marathon, just north of the Chisos Basin.
'''Rio Grande Village Service Station''', 432-477-2293. Sells gas, diesel, and propane and is located in the same area as the Rio Grande Village Store (see above). In fact, gas is purchased in the store.
Outside of the park
'''Stillwell Store'''[http://stillwellstore.com/], 432-376-2244. Sells groceries and supplies as well as gas (but not diesel). Also offers lodging (see Sleep). From the park's North Entrance (Persimmon Gap) drive north on U.S. 385 for about a mile then turn east on FM 2627 (well-marked) and drive another six miles. About 39 miles if driving south from Marathon.
Gas can also be purchased from Study Butte-Terlingua just outside the western entrance of the park.
Eat
'''Chisos Mountains Lodge Restaurant''', Chisos Mountains Lodge, 432-477-2292. Open every day 7AM-10PM. Serves up surprisingly decent Tex-Mex with what may be arguably the best view from any building in the park. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are available, as well as wine; they also have a soup and salad bar. They even offer a take-out lunch for hikes or picnics. Try the "Texas Toothpicks" (battered and fried strings of onion and jalapenos with dipping sauce). $8-$20.
Just outside of the park there are dining options in nearby Study Butte-Terlingua and Lajitas.
Drink
There are no bars as such in the park, however alcoholic beverages can be purchased at the '''Chisos Mountains Lodge Restaurant''' (see Eat) but may only be consumed there. In fact, drinking in any other public space in the park (trails, buildings, or otherwise) is prohibited.
Outside of the park, there is at least one bar in the nearby Study Butte-Terlingua area.
Sleep
Lodging
Chisos Mountains Lodge. asin Rural Station, Big Bend National Park, TX 79834. t the end of the Chisos Basin Drive near the central section of the park; signs are numerous.. 77-386-4383"
checkin="" checkout="" price="$106-$136" url="http://www.chisosmountainslodge.com/">For convenience as well as mind-blowing views, this can't be beat. Although far from luxurious, you are basically at the hub of park activity with numerous guest services just steps away. Various motel-style units are available (the "Casa Grande" rooms are newest and cost the same as the older rooms) as well as pricier stone cottages that can sleep up to 6. TVs are not included but can be rented (with movies) at a reasonable price - but why would you need one?
</sleep>
Camping
Three vehicle-accessible campsites are available with a self-pay fee of $14/night. Certain park passes will get you a discounted rate of $7/night. Camping at developed sites is limited to 14 consecutive days, with a maximum of 28 days in any given year. A limited number of sites are reservable at 1-877-444-6777 or the government reservations website [http://www.recreation.gov].
'''Chisos Basin Campground''' - A large high-country campground with flush toilets and a dump station. Several trailheads are nearby.
'''Cottonwood''' - A shady riverside campground with pit toilets. No generators.
'''Rio Grande Village''' - The park's largest campground, with flush toilets, dump station, laundry facilities and showers.
Backcountry
A backcountry permit is required for any overnight use (see Fees/Permits). There are about 30 backcountry camping sites scattered throughout the park, mostly off of the "primitive" back roads which require a high-clearance 4-wheel drive vehicle. Camping in the Chisos Mountains is permitted only at designated sites. Essential maps and information should be obtained at any of the park visitor centers. In the spirit of park preservation, there are many necessary regulations they can familiarize you with as well.
Outside of the park
Stillwell Store. C 65 - Box 430, Alpine, Texas 79830"
directions="From the North Entrance (Persimmon Gap) drive north on U.S. 385 for about a mile then turn east on FM 2627 (well-marked) and drive another six miles. About 39 miles if driving south from Marathon." phone="432-376-2244" email="stillwell@stillwellstore.com" fax="" checkin="" checkout="" price="$5 (primitive camping)-$18.50 (full RV hook-up)" url="http://stillwellstore.com/">A nice, close alternative to staying in the park that offers full RV-hookups or cheap primitive camping (with amenities on-site). The listed address is the mailing address; be sure to follow the driving directions.
</sleep>
There are several nice lodging options in the nearby Study Butte-Terlingua area, including some secluded getaways, as well as luxury accommodations in Lajitas (the poshest place to stay in the area); all of which are relatively very close to the park.
If you don't mind the drive, your lodging options expand even more if you consider staying in the larger towns of Marathon, Alpine, Presidio, Marfa, or Fort Davis. Expect to add ''at least'' an extra hour of driving time one-way if basing yourself in one of these locations (except Marathon, which is about a 40-50 minute drive).
Stay safe
'''The number to call in an emergency is the general park dispatch at 432-477-2251. Do NOT depend on cell phones for communication; coverage is spotty to non-existent. Always have someone you can trust outside of your group who knows where you're going and can contact authorities in case you don't arrive at your destination on time. Failing that, leave a note with your itinerary on the car dashboard. Public phones are located at all visitor centers and developed campgrounds.'''
Be prepared
The isolation and rugged nature of Big Bend National Park is part of the appeal for many visitors here, however it is those same characteristics that can cause problems for the unprepared. No matter what you're planned activity, even if you plan on just driving through the park without stopping or decide to take only a short day hike, bring plenty of '''water'''; it's better to have too much than not enough. The minimum daily requirement is ''at least'' one gallon. Don't rely on thirst as indicator for when your body needs water - it is notoriously unreliable - and don't conserve your water supply, even if you're running low.
'''Dressing properly''' is an often over-looked factor but is critical to your safety. If your plans include any outdoor activities, such as hiking, biking, rafting, just lounging around, or even if planning on driving long distances (especially on the backroads), you must be dressed properly. Desert temperatures can vary dramatically from day to night and it can be much cooler in the mountains and during winter (there is even occasional snow), so prepare for both heat and cold. Dressing in layers is critical, especially in the mountains; bring a jacket for both cold and rain protection but where lighter clothing underneath for when you (invariably) begin to overheat. For the desert heat, wear light-colored, loose-fitting long-sleeved shirts and pants; breathable fabrics such as cotton are best. Also wear a hat, preferably wide-brimmed, sunscreen, and practical shoes - closed-toed is a good idea and hiking boots are even better.
Of critical importance is having the right '''equipment''' in case of emergencies. It is always smart to bring a first-aid kit, a flashlight, an emergency signaling device such as a whistle (three blows is standard for emergencies), flare, or a signaling mirror (be sure to know how to use it). Make sure you have the right maps, whether it be road maps, trail maps, or topography maps. Make sure you have emergency equipment for your vehicles as well; a repair-kit for bikes and a properly inflated spare tire and jack for cars along with extras such as coolant, oil, and maybe even gas. Most importantly, don't forget your camera!
Driving
Be sure to note the guidelines in the get around by car section. Always inquire at the park about road conditions before traveling any of the back roads and follow the preparations above. Many roads in the park can be subject to flash flooding, the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive is a well-trafficked example. Flood gauges are often present in flood-prone spots; if there is any doubt at all of crossing safely, wait it out. A car can be swept away in as little as one foot of water. In the event of a breakdown you can't handle yourself, it's best to stay where you are, signal your emergency if possible, and wait for someone to happen along. If you must leave, be absolutely certain of where you are going and make sure to have enough water to safely reach there.
Hiking
Unless you're a very experienced trekker, it's best to start off with easier hikes and work your way up. During the summer, try hiking the Chisos Basin trails where it's often much cooler. Hiking alone is generally not recommended but the most popular trails should be fine. Backcountry hikes should not be taken casually, especially the strenuous desert hikes which require lots of preparation and skills such as knowing how to use a compass and topographical map. Be cautious in creek beds (arroyos), pour-offs, and the like, as they can be prone to flash-flooding even if it hasn't rained nearby. During thunderstorms (or if storms are nearing), avoid exposed areas such as mountains, hills, and ridges; get to lower ground and seek shelter in a building if possible.
Water in the park
Fresh water is a precious and rare resource in the park and should be left to the wildlife - bring in all the water you will need for your trip. Springs and other water sources are often dry; you should never stake your life on their presence. If you do find fresh water and want to drink it, boil it or use another reliable purifying method first to kill any microorganisms. Since the water is shared among all living creatures in this harsh environment, do ''not'' contaminate the water source in any way such as by swimming, bathing, or disposing waste in it.
The '''Rio Grande''' is ''NOT'' safe to drink from; it contains pollutants and other nasties that will make you ill. Swimming in the river is also a bad idea; murky waters hide large rocks and branches, sudden drops, and strong currents.
Wildlife
Big Bend is home to an astonishing variety of wildlife and the key word to remember is "wild". Never feed or try to touch an animal as all of them are potentially dangerous. Some, such as deer or javelinas can cause you serious physical harm (javelinas, cute as they may be, have ''very'' sharp tusks). Others, such as raccoons, rodents, or bats may carry disease. Poisonous snakes, scorpions, spiders, and centipedes also live here and are more active in the summer. They often seek safety in dark places, so check inside unattended shoes and sleeping bags before using them and watch where you step and place your hands when outdoors. Be wary of spines and thorns from cacti and other plants that may conceal them - hiking boots and long pants offer helpful protection.
The park is also mountain lion and black bear country. They live in the Chisos Mountains and are a rare sight; be sure to report any sightings of either animal to a park ranger. '''Black bears''' almost always run from humans; to avoid surprising one, make noise while you travel. Although smaller and less aggressive than the grizzly bear, black bears can be just as dangerous. ''Never'' get between a mother bear and her cubs. If you see a bear nearby and it hasn't already run away, do not approach it, instead calmly back away. It is very important to properly dispose of your trash in the mountains using the bear-proof disposal bins found everywhere. Use the numerous provided food storage lockers as well and keep everything else with strong odors sealed air-tight.
'''Mountain lions''' (sometimes referred to as "panthers" locally) are an even rarer sight than bears. They tend to be active at night and keep to themselves, although a few attacks have occurred in the past (less than you count on one hand in the many years of the park's existence, but it has happened). Stay close together in a group if traveling through an area known for mountain lion activity (usually there will be signs). If a mountain lion approaches you, make yourself seem as big as possible, yell at it in a commanding voice, throw rocks and sticks, and generally raise as much hell as you can. If one does actually attack, fight back with all your might; do not run or play dead. It must be reiterated that the chances of either a bear or mountain lion attack in the park is very, very low.
Fire
'''Wood and ground fires are not permitted in the park''', due to the dry climate. Be mindful of cigarettes, grills, and the like. In a life-or-death situation, you might consider lighting a fire if possible, as the smoke will be very visible, but be sure to control it very carefully as a wildfire will spread quickly and may end up putting your life in greater danger.
Other Concerns
Crime in the park and surrounding areas is low but not unheard of, mostly in the form of unattended cars getting broken into (especially when parked in remote areas). Use common sense; hide valuables from view or in the trunk or, better yet, leave valuable items you don't need somewhere else.
In past years, '''border crossing''' into Mexico over the Rio Grande to visit the various small villages there was a common occurrence but after the events of September 11th, crossing back into the United States through the park became illegal. Technically you can go into Mexico, but you'd have to return to the U.S. via a legal crossing point, the closest of which is Presidio (and that's very far). Violating the law is cause for fines and possible imprisonment and yes, the Border Patrol does have a presence here.
There have been reports of such illegal crossings from the Mexican side and other illicit activities such as stolen items and car break-ins near the '''River Road West''' area. This area is little-traveled by casual visitors (you need a high-clearance vehicle to reach it) and most who stay there have no problem but if there's any cause for discomfort or alarm, consider staying in another area and be sure to report any illegal activities of any kind to the park dispatch at 432-477-2251.
Get out
'''Amistad National Recreation Area''' encompasses a huge, startlingly blue man-made lake in the middle of rugged desert and offers boating, hiking, and camping. Nearby '''Seminole Canyon State Park and Historic Site''' also offers camping and hiking as well as caves and ancient Native American pictographs. If traveling to points further east, this route is a scenic alternative to I-10 - take US-90 east from Marathon.
'''Big Bend Ranch State Park''', a sister park just next door that's somehow even more rugged and remote. Offers hiking, backcountry camping, off-road tours, the '''Barton Warnock Environmental Education Center''', and a spectacular drive down Ranch Road 170 ("The River Road"). From the west entrance, drive north on TX-118 until you see the Ranch Road turn-off on the left after a few miles (well-marked).
'''Fort Davis and environs''', a charming, historic town set amidst gorgeous scenery, just north of Alpine via TX-118. Nearby are '''McDonald Observatory''', '''Balmorhea State Park''' - a huge artesian well you can swim in, and '''Davis Mountains State Park''' (sometimes called the "Texas Alps").
'''Guadalupe Mountains National Park''', Texas' other national park; the Guadalupe Mountains contain the state's highest peak along with great hiking and sites of historical interest. Some argue that '''McKittrick Canyon''' in autumn may very well embody the prettiest scenery in Texas. Take US-90 west from Alpine through Van Horn and continue north on the same road until you reach the park (about 260 miles).
'''Marfa''', a small, quirky town known for the mysterious "Marfa Lights" and a thriving art community; just a relatively short jaunt west of Alpine on US-90.
'''Mexico''' and its many nearby border towns can be explored using the Presidio-Ojinaga border-crossing as a jumping off point. For the adventurous traveler with plenty of time and preparation, other exciting options open up such as stunning '''Peguis Canyon''' and the remote but impressive '''Copper Canyon''' area.