Mtskheta is small enough that it is possible to see the entire town on foot. The one exception to this rule is Jvari monastery, which is far from the town center and located on top of a mountain. As there is no public transport to Jvari, it may be best to hire a cab in town.
Svetitskhoveli is one of the most sacred places in Georgia and, along with Jvari Monastery, the clear highlight of a trip to Mtskheta. It was founded in 1010, built on the site of Georgia's first church, and contains the graves of the ancient Georgian kings, including Sidonia, who was said to have been buried holding Christ's robe. There are many (unaggressive) beggars at the entrance gate.
'''Jvari Monastery'''
The 6th century monastery of Jvari is situated on a cliff above Mtskheta. It is the culmination of a number of artistic and architectural aspiration in early Christian Georgian architecture. The view from above is great.
Be sure you travel there when there's clear weather and before dusk.
'''Samtavro (Place of the Ruler)'''
Samtavro is located to the north up the main road, within easy walking distance from the Svetitskhoveli complex. According to legend, St. Nino actually lived on this site and prayed within the smaller of its two extant churches. This small church dates from the 4th century. The larger church on this site was built in the 11th century and contains the graves of Mirian, the Georgian king who adopted Christianity, and his wife.
'''Bebris Tsikhe (The Elder's Fortress)'''
Located further up the main road from Samtavro, the ruins of Bebris Tsikhe are fun, if a bit dangerous, to climb on for views overlooking Mtskheta and the valley formed around the Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers.
There are several cafes in Mtskheta, but one deserves special recognition: Cafe Guga. Cafe Guga has indoor and outdoor seating--the outdoor seating is especially nice in warm weather as each party will have their own private dining "hut." The Georgian cuisine available is outstanding and costs far less than a comparable meal in Tbilisi. It's almost worth it to come from Tbilisi to Mtskheta just for dinner here! Another extremely popular place is "Salobie" on the way to Mtzkheta to Tbilisi. It's a large restaurant with both outdoor and indoor seating areas and the food is exceptionally good.
There is also a relatively large grocery store ("?????????" or "_T_~_y_r_u___}_p_s") located north of Samtavro on the main road (between Samtavro and Bebris Tsikhe) where you can buy cheap basic foods and drinks.
The best sleeping options for a visit to Mtskheta are in nearby Tbilisi. Mtskheta is an easy and exceptionally rewarding day trip.
Again, taxis or the marshrutka are the main options. Taxis are a bit more convenient, albeit occasionally difficult to find within Mtskheta; the marshrutka is cramped, but cheap. To be on a safer side get a phone number of a cab company while still in Tbilisi, they will always send a car to pick you up on the way back.