'''Somalia''' is located on the Horn of Africa, and is bordered by Ethiopia to the west, Djibouti to the north-west, and Kenya on its south-west. This is a country with a troubled past. Civil war, military coups, border disputes and warlordism are the general course of events here. But things are starting to improve with the withdrawal of Ethiopian army.

History

The history of the Somali people dates back many centuries. The first time the word Somali was mentioned in a history book was 3500 years ago, when the queen of Egypt Hatshepsut sent a fleet of 5 large ships and a crew of 250 men to Somalia which the Egyptians called The Land of Punt. Punt means _gthe land of spices_h from the aromatic plants that grow there. The Egyptians wanted to trade and they brought jewels and glass beads that they exchanged for gold, elephant tusks, myrrh, ostrich feathers, spices and different beads. Some of these items, especially the aromatic ones, were used by the Egyptians in their religious festivals and celebrations.

Between the 7th and 9th Cent. immigrant Muslim Arabs and Persians established trading posts along the Somali coast. In the 14th century Ibn Battuta, the great Berber traveller, visited Mogadishu and wrote about the people, their food and clothing and how they ruled themselves. In his book he mentioned that the people in the city were very fat and everybody ate as much as they could. The Mogadishans wore very nice white clothes and turbans and their sultan was very powerful.

Somalia was an unknown country for European explorers until the Portuguese explorers reached the coastal cities of Somalia on their way to India. They called it Terra Incognita, which means the unknown land. These new discoveries encouraged many other European navigators to sail on the Somali coasts.

The colonial era

British, Italian and French imperialism all played an active role in the region in the 19th century. In 1884 at the European powers' conference in Berlin, Somalia was divided into five parts to dilute the homogeneity imposed by its language, religion, and race.

The colonial powers divided Somalia into British Somaliland in the north, Italian Somalia in the south, the French Somali coast in Djibouti, Ogaden in the west and NFD. In the early 20th century a Somali resistance against these colonial powers started, led by Sayed Mohammed Abdullah Hassan, whom the British gave the nickname "Mad Mullah." He began his opposition after returning from Mecca and established his own army, which he called the Dervishes. He recruited from the local people and built his own headquarters in Taleex. In 1901 the fighting started between British and local Somali forces and it was the beginning of a long struggle that resulted in Somali independence.

Region

  • '''Gedo'''
  • '''Somaliland''' - the most stable of the states with an ongoing effort to become independent
  • '''Puntland''' is not a place to be relied on for safety.
  • '''Galmudug''' - in the central region
  • Cities

  • Mogadishu - the capital, and generally considered the most lawless city in the world.
  • Hargeisa - the capital of Somaliland and, by Somalian standards, a fairly safe place.
  • Kismayo - a port city in the south of the country
  • Climate

    Somalia is principally desert. Major climatic factors are a year-round hot climate, seasonal monsoon winds, and irregular rainfall with recurring droughts. Mean daily maximum temperatures range from 30 __C to 40 __C (85?105 __F), except at higher elevations and along the east coast. Mean daily minimums usually vary from about 15 __C to 30 __C (60?85 __F). The southwest monsoon, a sea breeze, makes the period from about May to October the mildest season at Mogadishu. The December-February period of the northeast monsoon is also relatively mild, although prevailing climatic conditions in Mogadishu are rarely pleasant. The "tangambili" periods that intervene between the two monsoons (October?November and March?May) are hot and humid.

    Get in

    By plane

    There are two options regarding plane travel to/from Somalia, though operations may be spotty or non-existent due to the recent bombings of the airport by Ethiopian forces.

  • '''Daallo Airlines''' [http://www.daallo.com/] is the only international carrier to fly to Somalia. They operate 2-3 services per week from Djibouti using an Ilyushin-18 aircraft.
  • '''Jubba Airways''' [http://www.jubba-airways.com] is a Somali airline that operates from Mogadishu to/from: Dubai, Bossaso and Jeddah. Flights also may be available to/from: Galkayo, Hargeisa and Sharjah. Their aircraft is also IL-18.
  • Both Daallo Airlines and Jubba Airways use Aaden Cabdulle Cismaan International Airport which re-opened in August 2006. Prior to this, both airlines used an airport many miles from the Mogadishu due to security fears over the city's main airport.

    By car

    Don't. Though this '''may''' be possible if you wish to cross into Somaliland, borders are generally sealed, and always dangerous.

    By bus

    By boat

    There are ports in Boosaaso, Berbera, Kismaayo, and Mogadishu. The waters outside of Somalia, especially the Gulf of Aden, are unsafe due to pirates.

    Get around

    Somalia has not had an effective government for 15 years; as one can imagine this has had a negative effect on the roads. There are two different modes of public transportation that you can use in Somalia: buses and taxis. The only rule of the road that seems to still be in force is that Somalians ''generally'' drive on the right or centre.

    See

    The Somali beach near Mogadishu is very beautiful. Families usually go on weekends.It is important to be aware that women must swim fully clothed. This is because they follow the sharia which prevents women to mingle with men. It is not clear as what the situation is like currently. However it would make a great tourist attraction.

    Talk

    Somali is the official language in Somalia. However, Arabic is spoken by many and represents a secondary language. As the Somalis are almost exclusively Sunni Muslims, Somali has borrowed much religious terminology from Arabic, although there are also Persian or Arabic loan words for everyday objects (e.g. Somali albab-ka (the door), from the Arabic ????? al baab). While the southern part of the country was a former protectorate and colony of Italy, it is unclear just how much Italian is still spoken. Many Somalis speak English to communicate with the people who generally handle all of the menial jobs in their country. If you can learn a few words of Somali, your hosts and any other locals you may meet, will be very impressed and appreciative.

    Buy

    The currency used in Somalia is the Somali Shilling (sos). Currently only the 1000 shilling note is used, and doesn't go far... a glass of (unpottable) water will cost 1000sos. The current exchange rate of 100 US dollars to Somali shilling is 3,300,000 as of May 2008. Much more useful is goods with which you could barter

    The Bakaara Market (Somali: Suuqa Bakaaraha) is a Mogadishu open market and the largest in Somalia.

    Bakaara Market in the heart of Mogadishu. In the absence of government regulation, Somali marketplaces have thrived.The market was created in late 1972 during the reign of Siad Barre regime. Proprietors sold and still sell daily essentials (including staples such as maize, sorghum, beans, peanuts, sesame, wheat and rice), petrol and medicine.

    There are many things to buy here but be wary of cheap pearls as they may not be real. There are many good tailors in Somalia and it is a good place to have clothes made to measure and copied.

    Eat

    Somali meals are meat driven, vegetarianism is relatively rare. Goat, beef, lamb and sometimes chicken is fried in ghee, or grilled or broiled. It is spiced with turmeric, coriander, cumin and curry and eaten with basmati rice for lunch, dinner and sometimes breakfast.

    Vegetables appear to largely be side dishes, and often are woven into a meat dish, such as combining potatoes, carrots and peas with meat and making a stew. Green peppers, spinach and garlic were also noted as the types of vegetables most commonly eaten. Bananas, dates, apples, oranges, pears and grapes are among some of the more popular fruits (a raw, sliced banana is often eaten with rice). But in Somalia, Somalis had a much larger selection of fruits - like mango and guava - from which they would make fresh juice. Somali stores, therefore, carry among the widest selection of fruit juices, both Kern1s juices as well as imports from India and Canada. And there is also a selection of instant juice: frozen or available as a powder.

    The overriding characteristic of the Somali diet is that it consists of ''halal'' foods (Arabic for "allowable" as opposed to ''haram'': "prohibited"). Somalis are Muslims and under Islamic Law (or Shar'1ah), they are prohibited from eating pork, drinking alcohol, or smoking cigarettes (Although in practice, there is unlikely a serious aversion to tobacco smoking in Somalia).

    Other common foods include a type of homemade bread called ''injera'' (like a large, spongy pancake) and ''sambusas'' (like the Indian ''samosas''), which are deep-fried triangular-shaped pastries filled with meat or vegetables.

    The Cuisine of Somalia varies from region to region and consists of an exotic mixture of native Somali,Yemeni, Persian, Turkish, Indian and Italian influences. It is the product of Somalia's rich tradition of trade and commerce. Despite the variety, there remains one thing that unites the various regional cuisines: all food is served halal.

    Drink

    Somalis adore spiced tea. A minority of Somalis drink a tea similar to Turkish tea which they brought from Middle eastern countries to their homeland. However, the majority drink a traditional and cultural tea known as Shah Hawaash because it is made of cardamom (in Somali, Xawaash or Hayle} and cinnamon bark (in Somali, Qoronfil).

    Islam forbids alcohol and Somalia follows this rather strictly. If you do find some, don't show it or drink it in public, as there's a strong chance that you could offend, cause a scene and may even be punished!

    As for the coffee (kahwa) itself, try mirra, made in the Somali style. Sometimes spiced with cardamom, it's strong and tastes great, particularly drunk with fresh dates. Tea (chai) usually comes with dollops of sugar and perhaps a few mint leaves (na'ana).

    Sleep

    Bosaso and Hargeisa have some Western-level hotels.

    Work

    Stay safe

    At the risk of sounding like a broken record, the easiest method for staying safe in Somalia is '''''not to go in the first place''''', as it is a dangerous country. Kidnappings and warlordism are all common in this country.

    Driving is on the right. While Somali drivers have something of a reputation for bad driving, the reality is slightly more nuanced. Risks are taken, particularly in Mogadishu, which would not normally be taken in other places, but the locals expect this to happen and compensate accordingly.

    Stay healthy

    Water is contaminated as a rule of thumb, stick to sealed, preferably non-Somalian bottled fluids.

    Respect

    This is a Muslim country. As such, be sensitive about where you point your camera. There are many great photo opportunities around every corner (the question is usually what to leave out of each image), but when photographing people, always ask first. Don't ever, '''''ever''''' try to take pictures of women, even if you're a woman yourself. This is considered a great offense and can even result in more than a few harsh words. Also don't try to take pictures of anything that looks as if it could be of any strategic importance (''i.e.'', has at least one soldier or policeman guarding it).

    Respect the Islamic beliefs of Somali people: Women shouldn't wear tube tops or skimpy outfits. It is absolutely acceptable for any nationality to wear the traditional Somali clothes

    Do not eat in public during the holy month of Ramadan -- you may be fined or even go to jail.

    Alcohol is prohibited in Somalia and possessing alcohol will get you into a lot of trouble -- and '''''never''''' drink and drive.

    If you're dining with a Somali, don't expose the bottoms of your feet to him/her. Don't eat with your left hand either, since the left hand is seen as the 'dirty hand'. Similarly, don't attempt to shake hands or hand a package with your left hand.

    If your Somali friend insists on buying you something - a meal or a gift - let him! Somalis are extremely hospitable, and typically there are no strings attached. It is generally a custom to argue for the bill.

    Never discuss religion from an atheistic or similar point of view. Even highly-educated Somalis who studied abroad won't appreciate it and doors will close for you. Also be aware that the Islamic "call to prayer" happens five times daily and can be heard loudly almost anywhere you go. Just understand that most Somali people are used to it and enjoy it as part of the cultural experience.

    Staring is quite common in Somalia; children, men and women are likely to stare at you simply for being a foreigner, especially if you travel off-season and in out-of-the-way places. This is not meant as an insult; it rather shows an interest, and a friendly smile will leave the kids giggling and showing off, and the adults happily trying out their few English phrases.

    Men

    Men wear western pants or a flowing plaid ma'awis (kilt} western shirts, and shawls.On their heads they may wrap a colorful turban or wear a koofiyad (embroidered cap).

    Due to its Islamic heritage, many Somalis wear long dresses known in the Arab and Islamic worlds as khameez/thobe. Recent years, many men in Somalia choose to wear suits and ties to look more modern. This western dress code is dominant amongst members of the Somali upper class and the government.

    '''Homosexuality is punishable by death.''' It is common for Somali men to walk hand in hand as a sign of friendship, but it would be unwise for Western men to attempt the same. Sharing a hotel room as a way of cutting costs is normal, but don't even ''think'' about asking for one bed for two.

    Women

    Women usually wear one of the following dress: ''Direh'', a long, billowing dress worn over petticoats; ''coantino'', a four-yard cloth tied over shoulder and draped around the waist. They also wear an ''abaya'', a long and loose black robe.

    Internet

    Wireless service and Internet cafes are available.

    Contact

    The public telecommunications system was almost completely destroyed or dismantled by the civil war factions. Local cellular telephone systems have been established in Mogadishu and in several other population centers. International connections are available from Mogadishu by satellite. International outgoing connections also work from the cellular infrastructure. There is dialup internet access in Mogadishu, although visiting one of the internet cafes. Somalia has the cheapest cellular calling rates on the continent, with some companies charging less than a cent per minute.[62] Competing phone companies have agreed on interconnection standards, which were brokered by the United Nations funded Somali Telecom Association.

    There are no embassies in Mogadishu nor Hargeisa.