'''Maputo''' is the capital city of Mozambique.

Understand

Maputo has been the capital of Mozambique since 1898. The name of the city was Lourenco Marques until the independence of the country, in 1975. It is the largest city of Mozambique also with the country's most important harbour. It is situated at the mouth of the Santo River in the extreme south 90 km from the border to South Africa.

Compared to some other sub-Saharan African cities the urban area feels small and concentrated with wide avenues and old trees. People are generally out and about in the streets, walking driving and getting on with life. The vibe is healthy and active, with little begging and lots of street vendors and markets. There is no heavy presence of police during the day.

There are few tourists or white people to be seen and at times the atmosphere is as much South American as African. Buildings range from new high-rise construction to old colonial palaces, but the dominant architecture leans toward anonymous Stalinist-looking concrete-walled boxes of various heights, generally with badly eroded paint and lots of security bars in one or more stages of rusting. Fortunately, these tend to fade into the background as non-descript and uninteresting, and there are enough buildings with old charm or high style and lush enough gardens (cycads, coleus, flamboyant, jacaranda, bouganvillea, etc.) to give an overall pleasing if shabby feel.

The city provides a range of accommodation, from many-star hotels (Polana, Cardoso, Holiday Inn, etc.) to comfortable backpackers (Base and Fatima's) and reasonable options in between (Mozaic Guest House).

Get In

By plane

Most international flights are from/to Maputo's airport. See the the Mozambique page for more. Local airlines LAM [http://www.lam.co.mz] and Air Corridor [http://www.flyaircorridor.com/] operate a high number of domestic flights within Mozambique. TAP flies nonstop from Lisbon.

Taxis from the airport to town should be around 350 Metecais (approx $12). Hotels generally send their buses to meet flights, but only if they have passengers on the flight with bookings at their hotel. Local SIM cards can be bought at the shop near the exit from the terminal and there is also a bank.

By train

By car

The highway from Johannesburg to Maputo is very good. From Johannesburg, take the N4 towards Nelspruit (about 400 km). From Nelspruit, continue following the N4 to Komatipoort, the last town on the South African side (about 100 km). Just past Komatipoort is the Komatipoort/Ressano Garcia border post. NB: current car registration papers (or good facsimile thereof) are required to get a car past the border. On the Mozambican side, just follow the N4 (now called EN4) for a further 100 km or so to reach Maputo.

Also easy access from Manzini in Swaziland, around 186 km. With minivan/taxi the cost from Manzini to Maputo is around USD 8 with luggage (price per October 2006). The drive time, including getting visa at the Namaacha border post, is 4 hours. The price for visa is USD 25.

From Durban, on the KwaZulu Natal coast (South Africa), Maputo is 600 km away and best approached via the Golele border post into Swaziland. The shortest route from Golele into Mozambique is at the newly opened Goba border post.

Komatipoort/ Ressano Garcia Border Control The border control can be very intimidating to new (and even returning) visitors to Mozambique. As you drive into the Mozambican side of the border, you will have many people rushing to your vehicle (some even looking quite official) and then directing you to perform this or that activity. The goal is probably to intimidate you so that you use their services (expertise) to expedite the border crossing, which they do. They will then suggest that you pay them a fee that you believe is fair for all this. In essence, the role of these helpers is to "fast track" your queue through the border control, meaning that they kinda bump the ordinary traveller out of the queue. This is done with the tacit approval of the border officials--implying that they are part of the tactic, and they quite possibly also receive some gain from it.

Depending on your standpoint, it may be viewed as encouraging an activity that is nor entirely legal but expedites your passage, or something you are vehemently opposed to.

By bus

From Johannesburg

By Bicycle

If you are a little adventurous, it is possible to cycle by means of a mountain bike from Maputo to Ponta do Ouro. But be warned that you will have to push your bicycle for about 30km through thick sand. The trip is well worth it, and the look on the locals faces when they find out where you are going is not to be missed.

By boat

Get around

Walk center city by day.

Metered (yellow-roofed) taxi longer distances or at night but agree to a fare beforehand as many don't have meters. Ask hotel desks or locals for guidance on reasonable fares (e.g., Hotel Cardoso to Feira Popular or Mercado Central is around Mts 80 - 90,000 (USD 4 - 5).

A very inexpensive way to get around is by mini-bus or "Chapa" (pronounced SHA-PAA). They work like small busses and have routes that criss-cross the city. All major routes begin and end in the downtown core/market area called "Baixa" (pronounced BAA-SHAA). If you can speak Portuguese, then this is an excellent way to travel, or if you have a local friend to take you. Prices are low, around Mts 5,000 (US$0.20) for most trips and Mts 10,000 (US$0.40) for longer ones (all one way). Even if you don't know which Chapa to take, it's a great way to explore the city, and to get back to the core market area just find a Chapa that goes to "Baixa." Generally asking the navigator (usually hanging out of the passenger side door) if they go to "Baixa" will either result in them motioning you to jump on, or them pointing to where you need to go. Drivers usually cannot get away with overcharging you because you can easily see what the locals are paying, or the locals themselves will object.

While chapas are an interesting and authentic form of transport, they are not particularly safe. Even locals suffer from frequent pickpocketings on chapas, or while waiting for chapa stops. The minibuses are always packed far beyond their originally intended capacity, seats are frequently broken, and many travelers have to stand up while riding, though there are no handrails or appropriate places to hang on like in a larger bus.

Chapa drivers are notorious for disrespecting traffic rules and taking unnecessary risks with passenger safety to cut a few mintues off the journey.

Beware of the safety issues regarding chapas when you decide whether or not to experience this form of transport as a tourist (or resident).

See

  • The '''Railway Station''' on Praca dos Trabalhadores was designed by Gustave Eiffel (after his fall from grace in the Panama canal scandal), and bears the mark of his genius.
  • The '''National Art Museum''' has a small but good collection of Mozambican art, including several large canvases by the world-renowned Malangatana.
  • The '''Jardim Tunduru''' is a very pretty (albeit small) botanical garden.
  • The '''Museum of the Revolution''' chronicles Mozambique's fight for indepedence from Portuguese colonialism.
  • The '''Mercado Central''' in the Baixa district has fresh fish, crabs, calamari, fruits and vegetables, and many household staples. Safe, lively and recommended, especially if cooking for yourself.
  • Walk up '''Avenida Julius Nyerere'''. Start from the Hotel Cardoso or Natural History Museum along R Mutemba to Nyerere then left (north) to the Polana Hotel. Boutiques, restaurants, curio vendors, video stores, etc. to be seen in the relatively upscale Polana neighborhood.
  • '''Praca dos Trabalhadores''' is a building built by Gustave Eiffel.
  • Museu de Historia Natural. raca Travessia de Zambezi. lose to Cardoso Hotel. tn 50. Enjoyable little museum. Lots of stuffed animals, birds and reptiles with full-size models of elephants. Interesting collection of wooden carvings, including a selection of traditional and very uncomfortable looking wooden pillows.

    Do

  • Visit some beautiful beaches, such as Catembe and Ponta d'Ouro. It is very jovial in these atmospheres and are generally safe, but beware of pickpocketing and avoid bringing valuables with you on a beach stroll .Ponta D'Ouro and Ponta Malongane have some beautiful scuba-diving spots, with either campsites or chalets right on the beach.
  • Take in a wedding. Beautiful tribal singing and women ululating. Civil ceremonies next door to Avenida Hotel. Several weddings on Saturday morning.
  • Learn

    Work

    Work is now available to the locals, but if you are a foreigner and thinking about taking a sabbatical, it is a perfectly safe and comfortable place to do it. However, new regulations on expat workers in Mozambique have imposed quotas on the number of foreigners a business can employ, and it is getting increasingly difficult to obtain work permits as a foreigner in Mozambique, in particular with small companies or organizations.

    Buy

    '''TIP:''' On July 1, 2006 Mozambique officially introduced the second metical, dropping three zeros off the old currency. As a result, all prices you see in this article, or else where on the internet that are in thousands should be converted down by a factor of 1000. As a result Mts. 10,000 would now be MZN 10. The local abbreviation for the new currency is MTn. As of January 1, 2007 only the Bank of Mozambique will convert the old currency, but only until December 31, 2013.

  • '''African fabrics''' both waxprint and woven in the fabric shops along the Avenida de Guerra Popular
  • '''Cashews''' all over the place, roasted, salted, plain, any which way and nearly anywhere. The number two export of the country, selling for about US$3.20 per pound (Mts. 140,000 per kg).
  • '''Wood''' carvings, boxes, picture frames from curio vendors.
  • '''Batik cloth''' ranging from the tacky animal stuff to glorious works of art. Most of what is on offer is on the lower quality end, but persistent searching will yield some gems among the dross.
  • Eat

    The local cuisine is a mixture of Middle Eastern, African, Indian/Pakistani/ Portuguese, Hispanic, and African. All these different cuisnes are served at various areas in the city.

    Budget

    Any number of small cafes serve simple dishes and juices that are affordable. Unless you are adventurous, stay away from most roadside stalls especially if they are serving meat. Safe roadside fare includes cashews (usually fire roasted without salt served in small paper cones), fried bean cakes called Bhajia, uncut and unwashed fruits (cut and wash yourself with bottled water), and soft-serve ice cream. Expect to pay between Mts 5,000 and 20,000 (US$0.20 - $1.00).

    The fruit from roadside stands is usually fine, especially the bananas. They expect to sell the fruit by the kilogram, so be prepared for strange looks if you want just a couple of individual fruits. A couple of bananas should set you back 5 or 10 MTn.

    The smaller cafes will have egg sandwiches, fries, grilled chicken, small pastries, and simple hamburgers. Expect to pay between Mts 15,000 and 75,000 (US$0.60 - $3.00).

  • '''Gelati''' Av. Julius Nyerere 794. Good ice cream, on its own or served with Crepes.
  • Mid-range

    Chicken Piripiri near the corner of Avda. 24 de Julho and Avda. Nyerere serves grilled chicken and also very good prawns.

  • '''Mundo's''' next to Avenida Hotel on Av. Julius Nyerere. Multiracial meeting place with bar and restaurant, including pizza. Lots of televisions tuned to sport from South African channels. Internet free for 30 mins. per day, after that for moderate charge.
  • Waterfront . v. 10 de Novembre. 1301408. Good, mainly seafood, restaurant on the seafront.

    Splurge

  • '''Restaurante Escorpiao''', in the Feira Popular (in the Baixa district). Hhas a huge menu, good wine list and caters to moderate and high-end budgets. Not fancy, frequented by locals. Slightly better than the Costa do Sol.
  • '''Costa do Sol restaurant''', in Costa do Sol (5km north of Maputo by the sea -- take a taxi, they will wait and bring you back). Icon over 50 years old. Great seafood in low-key atmosphere. Great variety too. Excellent service. Booking recommended at weekends and if you want an outdoors table.
  • '''Restaurant Sheik''', part of the Sheik entertainment complex. Offers high-end Chinese and African cuisine in an elegant atmosphere. The disco below has dancing, drinks, and fun until the wee hours of the morning.
  • Drink

    '''Fruit juice''' is (sadly) usually sweetened nectar and not fresh 100% juice. The usual selections of fizzy sugar water in a bottle ('''soft drinks''') can be found too. Pressed '''sugar cane juice''' is available in some markets.

    '''Coca-Cola products''' are also widely available including Cola, Sprite, and Fanta fruit-flavored pop (Orange and Pineapple are most common, Grape is also sometimes available). "Sparletta" brand fruit-flavoured pop is also widely available. Expect to pay between Mts 7,000 and 10,000 (US$0.25 - $0.40). Shop owners are usually very strict when it comes to the empty bottles as they are expensive and reused, do not try and keep one without trying to pay the full price for the bottle first.

    The '''wine''' selection is reasonably good, and depending on your budget you can get a range of South African, Portuguese and Chilean wines. Most common are cheap South African and Portuguese wines, but you can find nice wines (for a price) in upper-end restaurants and certain bottle stores or delis. Wine by the glass generally comes from a box.

    '''Beer''' is widely available, with 2M ('dosh-em'), Laurentina (brewed by 2M), Manica, and Raiz being the common selection. Laurentina comes in two varieties, 'Clara' a lager, and 'Preta' a very dark Lager with hints of coffee and chocolate. Locals tend to order the Laurentina varieties simply by saying Clara or Preta, and leaving out Laurentina. Preta is the most expensive beer, followed by Manica and then 2M. Raiz is a newer beer intended for the budget market and is considered a 'cheap' beer. Beer bottles are also expensive and should always be returned or purchased. The beer itself is very inexpensive and reasonably good ranging from Mts 9,000 to 15,000 (US$0.35 - $0.60).

    Drink '''water''' from a bottle, not the tap.

    '''NIGHTLIFE'''

  • '''Xima's''' bar, on Av. Eduardo Mondlane, is popular with the locals and has live music on the weekends.
  • '''Africa Bar''' nightclub is on Av. 24 de Julho near Av. Karl Marx.
  • '''Gil Vicente''' is a bar attached to the Gil Vicente theatre, across from the ''''Jardim Tunduru'''.
  • The '''Centro Cultural Franco-Mozambicain''' has live music and cultural events.
  • The '''Central Train Station''' houses a jazz lounge on weekends.
  • The '''Feira Popular''' is located in the Baixa, and houses many bars and restaurants.
  • '''Dolce Vita''' Av. Julius Nyerere 800. New, upmarket bar with blue lighting.
  • Sleep

    Budget

  • '''Fatima's Place''', 1317 Mao Tse Tung Avenida, Maputo, email fatimas@tvcabo.co.mz, Phone: +258 (0) 82 4145730 - +258 (0) 82 3070870 Fax: (+) 258 1 300 305, [http://www.mozambiquebackpackers.com]. Dorms from US$12. Many people really enjoy this place, but it has more of a part atmosphere and is quite a bit larger than Base Backpackers. Some have found the staff and the other guests to be quite standoffish. It's a bit out of the main part of downtown, but still a very easy and generally safe walk to the business district. Fatima's also offers shuttle service to Fatima's nest in Tofo beach, around 7-8 hours north of Maputo. While this bus is very convenient, it can also be extremely dangerous and the motorist has stolen from expat passengers in the past. Take at your own risk.
  • '''The Base Backpackers''', 545 Avenida Patrice Lumumba (+258) 21 302723, not so great rooms, balcony with a view over the sea, 2 computers with fast internet, a small room with a tv and news, a self-service fridge and kitchen facilities. Members of the staff can be extremely flaky, and told a guest whose laundry was not returned clean as promised, "It's not my problem, it's your problem." The place needs to undergo a total renovation, but its one positive quality is its central location. The dorms become very hot during the spring and summer due to a lack of a fan. For US$9 ( Oct 2006), this is an OK alternative. Base is small, with only two small dorms, so you should call ahead for a reservation.
  • '''Maputo B&B, Backpackers''', at Triunfo, 4 Avenida, House 98, (''look for saure blue sign with yellow letters''), +258824672230. The very affordable alternative for hot city places, at very reasonable prices, like other backpackers, and ultra clean, little bar, free pool table, restaurant with best/freshest home cooked seafood, garden space to sit, secure parking in and outside, meet great travellers get all info on trips to Tofo, diving, culture, and very important '''great location close to the beach'''. Takes long term residents for special conditions and can point you to administrations of government, university, business. '''city tours, Inhaca-Portuguese Island boat trips''', live music bar.
  • Mid-range

  • Pestana Rovuma. ua da Se, 114 Caixa Postal 4376 - Maputo" phone="+55 (21) 254 86 332" email="reservas.africa@pestana.com" phone"(+258) 21 305 000" fax="(+258) 21 305 305" checkin="" checkout="" price="" url="http://www.pestana.com/hotels/en/hotels/africa/MaputoHotels/Rovuma/Home/PestanaRovuma.htm"></sleep>

  • Pestana Inhaca Lodge. estana Inhaca Lodge, Ilha de Inhaca. +258) 21 760 003. eservas.africa@pestana.com" phone"(+258) 21 305 305. +258) 21 305 305. ttp://www.pestana.com/hotels/en/hotels/africa/InhacaHotels/Inhaca/Home/PestanaInhaca.htm.

  • Pestana Bazaruto Lodge. estana Bazaruto Lodge, Arquipelago de Bazaruto, Ilha de Bazaruto. +258) 84 308 3120. eservas.africa@pestana.com" phone"(+258) 21 305 305. +258) 21 305 305. ttp://www.pestana.com/hotels/en/hotels/africa/BazarutoHotels/Bazaruto/Home/PestanaBazaruto.htm.

  • VIP Grand Hotel Maputo is a conference-hotel near the commercial centre of town, the Feira Popular, the ferry to Catembe. The rooms are pleasantly clean and modern, but service is poor, internet non-existent, and food mediocre. Dont stay here unless you have to...
  • Splurge

  • '''Catembe Gallery Hotel''', [http://www.catembe.net/]. 14 luxurious rooms that are individually decorated by leading Mozambican artists. It is situated about 10 minutes by boat from the CBD. It has a bar, beach, library, pool table and swimming pool. Internet access is available. Rates start from about ?200, up to ?380, depending on type of room selected.
  • '''Cardoso Hotel''', [http://www.hotelcardoso.co.mz/]. Opposite the traffic circle from the Natural History Museum. Recently refurbished and is a solid 4-star hotel although things often tend to go wrong. Staff fluent in English. A great garden to have a drink in and watch the sun set over the Baixa and Rio Santo. Doubles with a river view and airconditioning were US$140.00 or more in May 2009.
  • '''Hotel Polana''', [http://www.serenahotels.com/mozambique/polana/home.htm]. The grande dame of Maputo hotels, a colonial era masterpiece by Sir Herbert Baker, famed South African architect (who also did the Mount Nelson Hotel in Cape Town). As close to perfection in service, food, pool, view, etc. as can be found in Maputo. Small casino can be a fun diversion. Doubles start at US$217. Good place to have a drink, or to have lunch in the Tea Room.
  • '''Hotel Avenida''' [http://www.hotelavenida.co.mz]. 5-star hotel on Avenida Julius Nyerere. Has large and fairly comfortable rooms. Rooftop pool and bar for excellent sunsets and a good way of appreciating the rather confusing geography of Maputo. Several restaurants (Thai, Greek, Indian and pub style) within a few minutes. Hotel shuttle to and from the airport available. Free access to the Internet. Rooms from around $170 (April 2009) including good breakfast but really the only thing that is 5-Star about this hotel is the price.
  • Contact

    Stay safe

    Violent crime does not arise to the Joburg level but is a problem. Occasional pickpocketing attempts occur and are almost guaranteed on busy streets. At night, it is better not to walk around alone. Regardless of the hour, be smart when walking around -- don't carry much around in the streets with you, and if you have a bag, keep it close to you. If you have a cell phone, do not flaunt it -- pickpockets have been known to take cellphones right out of people's hands when talking on them.

    The local police are out of control and will target foreigners in the area around popular backpacker hostels, bus stations, etc. Carry a copy of your passport (not your real one), and a copy of your VISA too so that there is no potential problem with the police (you are legally obliged to carry both at all times). Also, very obviously, do not carry drugs or knives (penknives) around with you at all. One backpacker arriving by bus from Tete was detained and taken to the police station where he was robbed. Do not expect the police station to be a sanctuary if police hassle you.

    Stay healthy

  • Malarial prophylaxis is essential in all parts of Mozambique.
  • Do not drink the tap water. As Fatima puts it: "Your stomachs are not used to it."
  • There is high HIV incidence. For your own safety, '''do not have unprotected sex'''.
  • Prostitution is not prudent.
  • Cope

    Get out