The '''Southwest Side''' of Chicago is far off the beaten path in Chicago. Plenty of visitors know Midway Airport, but never see anything beyond. Truth be told, there ''isn't'' a lot to see. But the Southwest Side does hold some interest as the former home to the infamous '''Union Stockyards''' as well as a few hidden culinary gems well worth the trek.
Understand
The Southwest Side is large enough where you cannot understand it without understanding its neighborhoods.
The '''Back of the Yards''' is a loose term encompassing the community areas of McKinley Park, Brighton Park, and New City, referring to the area's history as the home to the vast hordes of immigrant laborers in the Union Stockyards of Upton Sinclair's ''The Jungle''. Though the stockyards are long gone, the blue-collar character remains. The actual stockyards themselves were located in the heart of New City between Ashland Ave and Halsted from Pershing Rd (39th St) to 47th St. Today they are marked by the '''Union Stock Yard Gate''' and a large industrial park. The area surrounding the industrial park is comprised of predominantly Mexican-American neighborhoods and has some good food on offer. '''Canaryville''' (between Halsted and Wentworth from Pershing to 49th) is an Irish-American neighborhood with a notorious reputation for violence over the past century. '''McKinley Park''', on the other hand, is experiencing a rapid gentrification as younger Chicagoans are priced out of "hipper" neighborhoods.
'''Marquette Park''' is an ethnically mixed neighborhood divided between mostly African-Americans, primarily concentrated to the east of the park and Mexican-Americans, primarily concentrated in the area immediately west of the park; along with some Polish and Lithuanian-Americans, centered around one very large and fabulous park. Further west, the area becomes more ethnically inclusive, with median income playing a more prominent role in residency. Aside from the park (and its golf course), the neighborhood is alluring mostly just for its great Mexican food, as well its rare-in-America Lithuanian dining. This neighborhood was once dominated by a big, wealthy, Lithuanian-American community, but its demographic began to shift dramatically following Martin Luther King Jr's anti-segregation marches (which at the time met with violence from residents). Accompanying desegregation in this neighborhood was characteristic "white flight," which put an end to the "Lithuanian Gold Coast" and heralded a more open neighborhood which most recently has become a major destination in the United States for Mexican immigrants.
Around Midway, you'll find Chicago's second airport, surrounded by an ethnically diverse collection of neighborhoods. This section of town is home to a large, established Polish community, as well as more recently arrived Mexican communities. The neighborhoods of Archer Heights, Garfield Ridge, and Clearing are important centers of Polish culture in the United States; you are likely to hear as much Polish as English while walking around these neighborhoods. Points of interest are pretty spread out, but the food and nightlife sure beats the airport hotels. And you don't have to venture ''too'' far to find one-in-a-million pizza, or some Croatian baked goods.
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In the southeast are a couple of far-flung African-American neighborhoods. '''Auburn Gresham''' and '''Washington Heights''' have far less of interest to travelers, aside from the Obama family's now famous church, but both are nice enough neighborhoods and have some good places to eat if you find yourself in the area.
'''Englewood''' <!--PRINT, the neighborhood between 55th, the Dan Ryan, 74th, and Western,PRINT--> also deserves a mention, but mostly as a warning — it is a large, impoverished, and relatively violent neighborhood with just about nothing to offer a traveler. It is generally best to just roll through on one of the main roads (e.g., 55th St) or to avoid the area altogether.
Get in
By plane
'''Midway Airport''' ({{IATA|MDW}}) plays second fiddle to the Chicago giant that is O'Hare International, but it nonetheless services a lot of domestic flights and is a more convenient point of entry. Just about everyone coming into this part of Chicago goes through this airport, which primarily serves domestic flights on low-cost carriers — it is the hub for Southwest Airlines.
'''Parking rates'''
Hourly Parking: $4 for the first hour and $2 for each additional hour
Daily Parking: $4 for the first hour, each day is $25.
Economy Parking: $2 for the first hour, $5 for two hours, and 12$ per day (or just over 2 hours!)
''Note: parking charges are incurred after 10 minutes in all lots, save the cell phone waiting area.''
By train
The CTA '''Orange Line''' runs from downtown through the district on its way from the Loop to Midway Airport, providing quick and easy access to the airport, as well as some northern areas of the Southwest Side from the Loop, but keep in mind that a bus transfer will likely be necessary to get you from the L station to anywhere other than the airport. Travel time is about 25-30 minutes from the Loop to Midway, but you may wait up to 30 minutes between trains during off peak hours.
'''Metra's Rock Island''' commuter rail line serves the southernmost neighborhoods of the district, and can get you to Auburn-Gresham or Washington Heights. But again, keep in mind that you will need to take a bus from the station to your destination. Trains depart from the downtown LaSalle Station. A ride to the Gresham station costs just over $2, to Longwood or Washington Heights, just over $3.
The '''Metra Southwest Service''' goes straight from Union Station in the Near West Side to the Ashburn neighborhood, where it stops twice at "Wrightwood" and "Ashburn." Only take this train if you are going to Ashburn, not if you are going to the airport, as its stops are on the other end of the district.
By bus
CTA bus route #62, which travels along Archer Ave from McCormick Center in the Near South to Midway, is probably the most convenient route into the Southwest Side from downtown Chicago. Other important routes include the city-spanning north south routes along Halsted, Ashland, Western, Pulaski, and Cicero: #8, #9, #49, #54, and #53. The major east west routes are #47, #55, and #63, which as you might expect run the lengths of 47th, 55th, and 63rd streets.
<nowiki>#</nowiki>62 Archer is the one bus that runs directly from downtown to the Midway Area, but it actually doesn't stop at the airport, so if you're coming from that way, the L is a better option. From the West Side, there are convenient and direct routes along Cicero and Pulaski (#53 and #54). Bus route #55 is by far the best way to travel to Midway from the South Side, and there is a #55 express route that leaves from the Museum of Science and Industry in Hyde Park.
By car
The '''Dan Ryan Expressway''' runs down the eastern edge of the district, and heading west on the 55th/Garfield exit will take you directly to the airport. To get to the Union Stockyard Gate, take the Pershing Road exit from the Dan Ryan. The '''Stevenson Expressway''' lacks exits on the main roads leading into the eastern parts of the area, but the Damen Ave exit will get you on Archer, from which you can easily get onto Western, Ashland, or Halsted. For Midway take Cicero; Pulaski is useful for exploring the areas just east of the airport.
Get around
Pretty much the only way to get around the Southwest Side by public transport is by bus, but if this is the route you choose, make a point of it to plan your route ahead of time, as distances are fairly long and the bus routes generally only run along the main streets.
A car is a handy travel companion in the Southwest Side indeed. Attractions, activities, and restaurants are generally spread apart over long distances, and free on-street parking is available just about everywhere. Taxis are also a good option, but do not expect to be able to hail one off the street — you will need to call and arrange rides in advance.
See
The big sights on the Southwest Side are the Union Stockyard Gate. Period. And even that is a pretty small attraction for how out of the way it is. Other sights appeal to narrow sections of society. The Chicago Blues Museum has a magnificent collection for anyone interested in blues history, but it remains to be seen whether it will ever have regular hours. The Balzekas Museum is of obvious interest to Lithuanian-Americans, the Indian Building to ''Wayne's World'' fanatics and perhaps roadside kitsch-seekers, and the Archives to, well, archivists (and to those who want to trace their roots in the Midwest).
Balzekas Museum of Lithuanian Culture. 500 S Pulaski Rd. 1 773 582-6500. ditor@lithuanianmuseum.org. 1 312 582-5133. ttp://www.lithaz.org/museums/balzekas/. 0AM-4PM daily. dults: $4, seniors/students: $3, children: $1, free on Tuesday. The Balzekas museum is a prominent Lithuanian cultural center for the United States, with a fine collection of Lithuanian antiques, folk art, armor, coins, rare historical maps, amber jewelry, and other items exhibited chronologically. The center also includes a state-of-the-art audio-visual center and an impressive research facility for Lithuanian history and genealogy. And the gift shop is a great shopping spot for Lithuanian-related items.
Capital Cigar Store Inc. he Indian Building. 258 S Pulaski Rd. Forget the store, this place is famous for the giant stereotypical-looking Indian statue of Wayne's World fame on the roof. In the movie, his hand is raised in greeting, but he has an arrow through his back. More recently, however, the Midwest Eye Clinic has usurped the cigar sellers, and adopted the Indian as a billboard — the arrow is gone, he now wears large glasses, and bears an odd sign reading "Eye can see now."
Chicago Blues Museum. 636 S Iron St. 1 773 828-8118. losed temporarily. This museum is ''huge'' and has an excellent collection of blues paraphernalia and exhibits related to blues in Chicago today and in history. The museum also has exhibits pertaining to Chicago's African-American history in general, especially about the Bronzeville district in the 1920s and 30s. But the collection is on tour, and the museum will therefore be closed at least until the fall.
La Loteria. 100 S Ashland Ave. The largest mural in the city (500 ft), painted by Hector Duarte and Mariah de Forest, on the south wall of the Swap-O-Rama building. You can't really see it from the street — you'll need to wander deep into the parking lot for a good look.
National Archives & Records Administration. 358 S Pulaski Rd. 1 773 948-9050. ttp://www.archives.gov/great-lakes/archives/. , W-F 8AM-4:15PM, T 8AM-8PM. hicago.archives@nara.gov. 1 773 948-9050. The enormous Midwest branch of the National Archives is hidden away in the middle of nowhere, but its collection of records is enormous. The public has free and instant access to the census records, for those interested in their family genealogy, while historic federal documents are searchable only by researchers who have applied for a pass in advance.
The Union Stock Yard Gate. 200 S Peoria St. This limestone structure marks the entrance to the now defunct Union Stockyards that dominated this section of Chicago (and the meatpacking industry of the country) in the late 19th-early 20th centuries. The current stone gate replaced an original wooden gate of the same design.
Do
Marquette Park. 734 S Kedzie Ave. 1 312 747-6469. AM-11PM daily. Marquette Park is huge and is a good place to get away from the urban commotion of the city. Ice skating (on the lagoon) and cross-country skiing are both possibilities during the winter. During the summer, it's likely the South Side's favorite place for a picnic or a pick-up game of soccer (or more accurately in these parts, futbol). The park is also home to the Ashburn Prairie, a fine specimen of the native plant species of the area.
:* <do name="Marquette Park Golf Course" alt="" address="6734 S Kedzie Ave" directions="" phone="+1 312 747-2761" email="" fax="" url="" hours="Sunrise-sunset daily" price="Weekdays: $8-12, Weekends: $9-13">The hidden gem that is Marquette's public golf course is considered one of Chicago's most beautiful. You will feel miles away from the city. Nine holes, 3,187 yards.</do>
Sherman Park. 301 W 52nd St. Although lesser known than Marquette Park, this 60 acre park is historically and aesthetically its equal. Designed by Daniel Burnham & Co (architects) and the Olmsted Brothers (landscape artists) and located on (a rather unsafe stretch of) historic Garfield Boulevard, this park not only provides open green space and a beautiful lagoon, but also classically designed architecture, and a glimpse into the past (as well as the future) of the Back of the Yards area.
Buy
The Southwest Side is not an enticing shopping destination, unless the endless strip malls on Cicero are your thing. Even Midway Airport lacks a duty free shop, as it only serves a few international flights to Mexico. There really is no reason to ''come'' to the Southwest Side to go shopping, but if you find yourself here, and need to get something, you can almost certainly find it on Cicero.
Ford City Mall. 3rd St & Cicero Ave. 1 773 767-6400. ttp://ford-city.mallsite.us/. -F 10AM-9PM, Sa 10AM-7PM, Su 10AM-6PM. This mall, by the way, has a bit of history to its name. In its former life it produced engines for bomber planes during World War II under Ford Company management, and later car engines. If the mall fails to satisfy your needs, rest assured the Cicero Avenue strip malls extending endlessly to the south will.
Izzy Rizzy's House of Tricks. 034 S Pulaski Rd. 1 773 735-7370. 1 773 581-4626. izzys@aol.com. ttp://www.izzyrizzys.com/. -F 10AM-9PM, Sa 10AM-7PM. You also might want to take a gander at Izzy Rizzy's. The kids will love you if you take them here. Magic kits, fake dog doo, Santa costumes, whoopie cushions galore.
Sanchez Brothers Western Clothes. 942 W 47th St. 1 773 254-4090. ttp://www.sanchez-bros.com/. 0AM-8PM daily. 20-5,000. Live out your mariachi fantasies here. The Sanchez Brothers carry all sorts of specialty clothing for Mexican bands, from cowboy hats to iguana skin boots!
Video Strip. 307 S Archer Ave. 1 773 927-4307. ttp://www.thevideostrip.com. 1AM-midnight daily. A McKinley Park video rentals shop with an eccentric collection of dvds, including special editions, rare movies, and boxed TV seasons. If you are staying anywhere nearby, they will actually deliver the rentals to you.
Eat
The Southwest Side excels in three culinary areas: Mexican, Polish/Bohemian, and Chicago-style fast food. Avoid the airport hotel restaurants like the plague — there are far better (and more fairly priced) places to eat nearby. If you have a car, drop whatever you are doing and head down Pulaski Ave to Vito & Nick's for the "best pizza, anywhere." If stuck at the airport, Gold Coast Dogs will give you a bonafide Chicago Hot Dog.
Budget
Birrieria Zaragoza. 852 S Pulaski Ave. 1 773 523-3700. ,W-F 10AM-7PM, Sa-Su 8AM-4PM. 2-10. This little South Side birrieria has lately found itself featured in just about every major Chicago magazine and newspaper, and while this is surprising, it is not unwarranted. The ''birria tatemada'' on order is shredded goat, first steamed for hours and then oven roasted, coated with a mild mole, served in tacos, or "en plato" in a tomato consomme. The owner is an artist first, business owner second, who has studied his narrow trade on a level unique in the city.
Bobak's Sausage Company. 275 S Archer Ave. 1 773 735-5334. ttp://www.bobak.com. -Sa 8AM-9PM, Su 8AM-7PM. 4.99/lb. of hot food. It's unclear whether the restaurant will ever re-open, but there are tables inside the store for people who like to enjoy sausage at the source, along with other Polish favorites.
Harold's Chicken Shack. 2-5. The great South Side fried chicken chain is cheap, usually a little dirty, and always delicious. Crowded at meal times.
:* <eat name="" alt="" address="917 W 87th St" directions="" phone="+1 773 224-4621" email="" fax="" hours="11AM-3AM daily" price="" url=""></eat>
:* <eat name="" alt="" address="10259 S Halsted St" directions="" phone="+1 773 568-5906" email="" fax="" hours="M-Th 10AM-midnight, F-Sa 10AM-1AM, Su 11AM-10PM" price="" url=""></eat>
:* <eat name="" alt="" address="2521 W 63rd St" directions="" phone="+1 773 778-9659" email="" fax="" url="" hours="Su-Th 11AM-2:30AM, F-Sa 11AM-4AM" price=""></eat>
La Cecina. 934 W 47th St. 1 773 927-9444. AM-10PM daily. 2-10. Come to La Cecina for ''la cecina'' — a Valentina's. 506 W 63rd St. 1 773 284-5529. u-Th 9AM-11PM, F-Sa 9AM-midnight. 8-15. This place, just a few blocks from Midway, serves wonderful taco platters. And the margaritas are just fine too. The decor is light and cheery, on-street parking is plentiful, and service is friendly, all making this a wonderful place to hang out, relax, and have some top-notch Mexican food.
Vito & Nick's. 433 S Pulaski Rd. 1 773 735-2050. -Th 11AM-11PM, F-Sa 11AM-1AM, Su noon-11PM. 6-15. ttp://www.vitoandnick.com/. It's a quiet, family-style eatery with a few older patrons chit-chatting at the bar. Widely regarded on the South Side as serving the best thin crust pizza in the city; it bears the slogan "the best pizza... anywhere," and that may well be true — to be clear, this may be the best pizza in the world. The South Side accents are thick, the decor with its carpeted walls and Christmas lights is South Side chic in its purest form — this is an experience to be had. Cash only, sometimes closes early if things are slow.
Drink
The Southwest Side does not rank prominently in the minds of Chicagoans when they think of city nightlife, but there are a of worthwhile spots, with good live music.
Groucho's. 355 S Pulaski Ave. 1 773 767-4838. ttp://www.grouchosbarandgrill.com/. -F 2PM-4AM, Sa noon-5AM, Su noon-4AM; Kitchen open untill 3AM. dmission: $5, entrees: $5-11. A decent South Side rock club featuring better-known local and regional acts. As an added bonus, the kitchen serves bar food all night.
InnExile. 758 W 65th St. 1 773 582-3510. ttp://www.innexilechicago.com/. u-F 8PM-2AM, Sa 8PM-3AM. Gay nightclub that attracts all sorts of people passing through next-door Midway with occasional live performances.
Linda's Lounge. inda's Place. 044 W 51st St . 1 773 373-2351. A small, cozy neighborhood dive bar offering live blues and soul.
Natasha's Rome. 441 W 69th St. 1 773 842-9816. -F 5PM-2AM, Sa 5PM-3AM, Su 3PM-2AM. This is the nicest club in the Marquette Park neighborhood, with a laid-back bar on each of its two floors. Willie T performs live blues on Fridays, Sundays feature spoken word night, and the rest of the time there is a DJ spinning R&B and other pop music. Locals usually dominate the crowd, except on Fridays and Sundays.
Reese's Lounge. urnside Lounge. 827 W 87th St. 1 773 238-1993. 1AM-2AM daily. inners $5-6. Live DJs W-Su, Sunday nights are all-jazz. Dress nicely, it's a swanky place.
Tina's. 440 S Narragansett Ave. 1 773 586-8767. -Th 4PM-10PM, F-Sa 11AM-11PM, Su 2PM-10PM. A divey neighborhood sports bar that rises above the crowd for its thin-crust and stuffed Chicago style pizzas. Otherwise, cheap drinks and free pool are the draws.
Tony O's Studio 31. 147 S Archer Ave. 1 773 585-7512. u-F 8PM-2AM, Sa 8PM-3AM. o cover. A bar/nightclub that is plenty friendly, packed on weekends, and miles away from the too-cool-to-sweat clubs downtown.
Touch of Class. 058 W 63rd St. 1 773 586-8177. u-F 9AM-4AM. A neighborhood pub just west of Midway that takes pride in turning off the ear-splitting music that kills conversation in bars across the city. The atmosphere is extremely friendly and laid-back (although Notre Dame games can liven the place up a bit).
Sleep
As it is an airport neighborhood, the Midway Area has a ton of hotels, which mostly fall in to two categories: bland, mid-range, three star business/airport hotels and cheap, but not seedy, motels.
Carlton Inn Midway. 944 S Archer Avenue. 1 773 582-0900, +1 877 722-7586. ttp://www.carltoninnmidway.com. 92-159. nfo@carltoninnmidway.com. Carlton Inn Midway is the '''only''' Midway hotel located a short walk (1.5 blocks) to the Orange Line L train stop- all other hotels require cabs, shuttles, or long hikes. Free airport shuttle, free parking, free internet, and free breakfast. AAA approved. Clean, comfortable rooms.
Crossroads Hotel. 300 S Pulaski Rd. 1 773 581-1188. ooms from $50. Extremely tattered but cheap. Just a couple blocks south of the Pulaski Orange Line station.
Four Points Sheraton. 353 S Cicero Ave. 1 773 735-4694. 1 773 581-8421. ttp://www.starwoodhotels.com/fourpoints/property/overview/index.html?propertyID=1319. 100-180. The Sheraton is comfortable enough, recently underwent a big-budget renovation, and the price is a better deal than the Midway Hotel Center offerings.
Mainway Midway Motel. 849 S Cicero Ave. 1 773 735-0550. ooms from $52 Su-Th, $67 F-Sa. Another "tattered" budget option located about a half mile north from Midway along Cicero Ave, an easy bus ride.
Skylark Motel. 435 S Archer Ave. 1 773 582-2100. ooms from $75. Slightly more expensive than the other budget motels, but the extra cost may be worth it — it really is a good deal nicer.
Midway Hotel Center
The Hotel Center is a hotel campus of seven individual options, located two blocks south of the airport (about a half mile from baggage claim) at 65th St and Cicero Ave. Shuttles run between all the hotels and the airport, although (despite claims to the contrary) you cannot always get a shuttle to/from the L station, so expect to have a long trip if you are heading to the city center. If you're here and looking for food, it would be a travesty of taste to go to the center's chain restaurants. Walk a block north to Giordano's for some quality Chicago-style pizza or solid Italian dishes. Better yet, get a taxi to Vito and Nick's.
Chicago Marriott Midway. 520 S Cicero Ave. 1 708 594-5500, +1 800 228-9292. 1 708 594-5510. ttp://www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/chima-chicago-marriott-midway/. PM. oon. 140-220. A fine business hotel, albeit a small step down from the usual Marriot standards.
Courtyard Chicago Midway Airport. 610 S Cicero Ave. 1 708 563-0200. 1 708 728-2841. ttp://www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/chicm-courtyard-chicago-midway-airport/. PM. oon. 110-220. Recently renovated, but not quite as nice as the Marriott itself.
Fairfield Inn & Suites Chicago Midway Airport. 630 S Cicero Ave. 1 708 594-0090. 1 708 728-2842. ttp://www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/chimd-fairfield-inn-and-suites-chicago-midway-airport/. PM. oon. 110-210. This location is notably nicer than most Fairfield Inns, probably closer to a three-star than a two-star. Free wireless.
Hampton Inn Chicago Midway Airport. 540 S Cicero Ave. 1 708 496-1900. 1 708 496-1997. ttp://www.hamptoninn.com/en/hp/hotels/index.jhtml?ctyhocn=CHIMWHX&adId=Thayer,CHIMWHX. PM. oon. 130-240. Recently renovated, bland three star hotel.
Hilton Garden Inn Midway Airport. 530 S Cicero Ave. 1 708 496-2700. 1 708 496-8820. ttp://www.hiltongardeninn.com/en/gi/hotels/index.jhtml?ctyhocn=MDWAHGI&adId=Thayer,MDWAHGI. PM. oon. 110-200. Three star hotel with free high speed wireless.
Holiday Inn Express. 500 S Cicero Ave. ttp://www.ichotelsgroup.com/h/d/ex/1/en/hotel/chimw?_requestid=117077. PM. oon. 140-210. Probably the best option of the seven (although the differences between them are pretty slight), and has a curious
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Stay safe
As you would expect in such a large district of the city, crime levels ''vary'' throughout. The northern and western neighborhoods, while sometimes looking gritty, should not worry you in the slightest. Marquette Park is quite safe as well, although it deteriorates a bit southeast of the actual park. Englewood, on the other hand, is a huge neighborhood notorious among Chicagoans for murders, random beatings, and what have you. Auburn-Gresham and Washington Heights rest somewhere in the middle, but they're fairly quiet and peaceful — violent crime is not happening on main streets during the day.
Get out
If your flight is not on the departures display, perhaps you were looking for O'Hare International Airport? If so, grab a cab and hope for the best. Most taxis have special rates for the MDW-ORD trip, which should cost about $50-60 at the cheapest and take about an hour. If time is not an issue, you can take the Orange Line to the Loop and transfer to the Blue Line to O'Hare for just $2.25, but it will take two hours or more.
If you are staying downtown and just want to get some authentic Mexican food, there are great options closer by in the West Side's Pilsen neighborhood.
While you are out this far from the city center, why not head even further south to the Far Southwest Side to dig the Irish pubs and brogues.
Hop on the CTA Orange Line and head downtown to the Loop to escape the outskirts and see the city you recognize from the postcards.
For more Polish culture, the motherlode is on Chicago's Far Northwest Side.