'''Suzdal''' (''_R__?_x_t_p_|__'';[http://suzdal.org/eng/suzdal/info]) is a historic small town in Vladimir Oblast east of Moscow Russia, about 25 km north of Vladimir. It was once the capital of several Russian principalities and has many examples of early Russian architecture. It is probably the most interesting of the Golden Ring cities.

Understand

History

During the time of the Soviet Union, nearly all of Suzdal's economy was planned around its tourist potential. As a result, very few modern buildings were constructed in Suzdal (by law there are no structures more than 2 stories high except cathedrals). Also, a number of wooden structures from other parts of Russia were transported here, and the whole city was converted into an 'open-air museum'. Unfortunately, Suzdal's dependence on tourism also meant its economy nearly came to a standstill when tourists stopped coming after the fall of the USSR. The town's tourist trade now appears to be revitalizing itself however, mostly due to an influx of Russian tourists from Moscow and elsewhere.

Suzdal retains a rustic atmosphere. You will not find any McDonalds restaurants or any trace of Western chain shops or hotels here. Livestock wandering the streets and elderly women washing cloths in the river (and tourists wielding digital cameras) are regular sights in Suzdal.

Get in

There are no trains to Suzdal, so aside from organized bus tours, the only way to reach the city is by bus or car. There is one daily bus from Moscow's Shelkovskaya bus station. However, a more convenient option is to first visit Vladimir, and then take a bus from there. Buses depart from Vladimir to Suzdal every thirty minutes. Special private tour buses to Vladimir and Suzdal also operate from Kursky Train Station (Metro: Kurskaya). Prices and destinations vary.

Trains leave from Moscow to Vladimir from Kurskaya Train Station. Buy tickets at the regional (short-distance) train ticket counter. This is the right wing of the Kurskaya station (Poezda Prigorodnogo Napravleniya - Gorkogo). Tickets cost RUR 260 one way from Moscow to Vladimir. There are several daily departures with the earliest at 8:00am.

From Vladimir train station exit and walk 50 meters across the parking lot to the Vladimir Bus Terminal. Purchase a bus ticket at the ticket counter (approximately RUR 70) and ask for the number of the Platform. The tickets have assigned bus seat number, so pay attention, as somebody may take your seat if you do not claim it.

Get around

See

  • Spaso-Evfimiev Monastery. l. Lenina. 900-1800. The Spaso-Evfimiev Monastery is one of the largest and best preserved monasteries in Suzdal. It is very large and houses more than 10 separate museums, including a museum commemorating the GULAG and Russian historical museums. It is just as impressive (perhaps more) than the Moscow Kremlin. One can spend an entire day touring the museums and churches. It is strongly recommended to purchases a single ticket for all of the constituent museums as the guards strongly enforce admission tickets.

    Do

    July 16 - Day of Cucumber. Funny holiday, based on the fact that Suzdal's cucumber have a reputation as the best cucumber in central Russia. Per se a folks music holiday.
  • Walk on Kamenka River. In winter months, when the river is frozen, do walk the length of the river. This is the lifeline of the city and you will see sleighs being pulled and men ice-fishing in the river. It is a beautiful way to see the city.
  • Carriage/Sleigh Ride. A carriage or sleigh ride through Suzdal is a memorable (though expensive) experience. The young men offering the rides may be found everywhere and start their negotiations with very steep prices (RUR 3,000 / .5 hr). You should be able to negotiate down to RUR 500 or thereabouts, depending on the season. Also, shorter rides can be negotiated.

    Buy

    Eat

  • '''Trapeznaya'''. It's placed in real room of refectory on the territory of Suzdal's Kremlin. It has a traditional russian menu with "bliny" with caviar and something else, but prices are much lower than in Moscow. Try their marinated forest mushrooms - it's beautiful, alone or with cold vodka.
  • Xorchma. l. Lenina. A nice restaurant in the city center with very good Russian food. Try the local liquers -- Susdalskaya Nastoika -- it is a cranberry and groundberry vodka-based liquer.

    Drink

    As usual in Russia - vodka. But, in Suzdal you can test another drink - '''miedovukha'''. It's a russian variant of cider, made from honey. Be careful - don't buy it on the streets - it may be fake, ask your guide where you can buy real medovukha.

    Sleep

    Suzdal maybe is one of the Russian City where you can not just find out a place to stay but have a choice. There are many small hotels with 5-20 rooms. Be sure to book ahead for NY holidays, Day of Independent, and during the summer high season.

  • The biggest hotel is a "Tourist" (not the best name, isn't it?) It's a 3 star hotel, may be the best place for backpackers, also there are "cottages" with garage inside.
  • '''Sokol''', A large hotel recently renovating after fire.
  • Hotel Pushkarskaya Sloboda. l. Lenina 41. 7 (49231) 2-33-03. nfo@slobodahotel.ru. 7 (49231) 2-33-63. rices start at RUR 2,500 for a double or twin room. tp://www.sloboda-gk.ru/.

  • '''Goryachie klyuchi''' aka '''"Bashenki"''' [http://www.parilka.com] Address: ul. Korovniki, 14. Tel. +7 (09231) 24-000, +7 (0922) 42-00-77, fax. +7 (09231) 2-41-01 . A very nice complex of hotels with big wooden rooms, sauna etc., situated in a very quite place, 20 min. walk from the town center and nearly 40 min. walk from the Cremlin. The price start at RUR 3 000.00 for a room
  • Vasilyevsky Monastery. asilyevsky Street. 00. For those interested in a monastic type of stay, the Vasylyevski Monastery offers rooms for hire at RUR 400 per person, or 800 for a room. The rooms are very comfortable, warm and clean. Guests stay in the same building as resident monks, so don't expect conviences. There is no telephone, TV or shared kitchen. Two shared bathrooms are available. Vasilyevski Monastery is located on Vasylyevski Street which is the main road leading from the Suzdal Bus Station to the town centre. It is best to exit at Suzdal Bus Station and walk to the monastery. From the monastery to the town centre is a very pleasant 10 minute walk. Pay for the room inside the church.
  • Molodezhnaya Gostinitzya. olodehnii Hotel. l. Lenina. A hostel in city center. Prices are around RUR 600 per person. Dorm style living.

    Get out

    The Suzdal Bus Terminal is located on Vasylevski Street. It is a 20 minute walk from the city center or a short taxi ride. Regular buses leave from Suzdal to Vladimir at short intervals (30 or so minutes). At least one daily bus to Moscow leaves at 11am (arrives in Moscow 3:30pm - Shelkovskaya Metro - east end of blue line).

    A warning about the Suzdal Bus Station -- there are no bathrooms or snack facilities (under renovation) -- so do/get your things done/bought ahead of time.