'''Udon Thani''' (????????, also ''Udorn Thanee'') is the provincial capital of Udon Thani Province in the north-eastern Isaan region of Thailand. Often referred to as simply '''Udon''' (????), the city should not be confused with Ubon (Ubon Ratchathani) to the southeast.
Understand
Udon was a U.S. air base during the Vietnam War and grew rapidly at that time. After several decades of snoozing, Udon's tourism industry has been given by the dual boost of the archaeological site at Ban Chiang and the new bridge to Laos from nearby Nong Khai.
Get in
By plane
'''Udon Thani International Airport (UTH)''', newly refurbished in 2006, has lots of flights to Bangkok (50 min) and a few to Chiang Mai and Loei. (Tiger Airways' flights to Singapore have been suspended.) To Bangkok, THAI's rack rates are closer to 2300 baht, but Air Asia will fly you for 700 baht and Nok for 1250 if you book well in advance. The sole scheduled international flight is operated by [http://www.laoairlines.com/ Lao Airlines] to Luang Prabang several times a week.
There are four daily buses direct to Nong Khai's Friendship Bridge to Laos from the airport, roughly synchronized with flight arrivals. Buy tickets (150 baht) at the taxi desk. Note that these buses will drop you off into a pit of tuk-tuks, which will try to convince you that you need their services at 20 baht a shot; unless you have baggage, you can ignore them and just walk out to the road, from where you can see the Thai checkpoint less than 500 metres away.
By bus
Buses from Bangkok, an 8-hour ride, arrive at the '''BKS station''' to the north of the city.
Buses depart at least once per hour after 11AM to Nong Khai (20 baht, 1 hour, non-airconditioned 3rd class) on the Lao border. Buses from Nong Khai may drop you off north of the city. Follow the locals and hop on the waiting #6 songthaew for the ride to the bus station, or be left at the tender mercies of the tuk-tuk mafia.
There are six express buses a day direct to the Morning Market in Vientiane (80 baht, 2 hours, air-con 1st class departures at 8AM, 10:30AM, 11:30AM, 2PM, 4PM, 6PM). These cross-border buses will carry passengers who have not obtained their Lao visas in advance, but may not wait long enough at the border for a visa on arrival to be applied for and issued. This isn't a problem when the queues are short, but at busy times passengers who don't already have their visas may be left behind and have to continue by local bus or tuk-tuk.
By train
Daily trains connect to Bangkok and Nong Khai, the journey takes up to 14 hours if you take the night sleeper. Second class sleepers are a comfortable compromise, although you'll probably want 1st class aircon in the hot season (April).
Get around
Navigation around Udon Thani is made easier by three large roundabouts in the central roads - a clocktower, a fountain, and a statue. It's also possible to orient yourself with Robinsons or Nong-Prajack park. Street names are next to useless.
By bicycle taxi
Udon Thani has one of Thailand's largest ''samlor'' (three-wheeled bicycle taxi) fleets, although as elsewhere they are slowly succumbing to the pressure of internal combustion.
By tuk-tuk
Tuk-tuks, the noxious vanquishers of the samlor, prowl the streets on the lookout for tourists to rip off. Try to keep the negotiated price in the 30-40 baht range, unless the trip is quite long.
By songthaew
Udon Thani has a bus-like network of numbered songthaews; cost is 8 or 10 baht per trip (10 baht outside ringroad).
By bicycle
Bicycles are available for rent at the northeast corner of Nong Prajack park for 20 baht/hour.
See
Udon has a variety of sights although most visitors make a beeline for Laos or the bronze age excavations east of Udon at Ban Chiang.
'''Udon Sunshine Orchid Farm'''. Famous for a variety of orchids, orchid derived perfumes, and plants that "dance to music".
'''Nong Prajack Park'''. A large recreational area within the city and the primary site for locals to exercise and chill out. Consisting of a large lake/reservoir with several small islands, it features pleasant grass areas and activities such as nightly aerobics (to Thai pop music) and feeding bread crumbs to the fish. For the more active, it's also popular for jogging around the outside of the lake.
'''Nong Bua'''. Another park with a lake just to the east of the railway line. It is noted for its Chinese pagodas over the lake and the dragon pole.
'''Ban Nakha''', 15 km north of Udon along Route 2. A village famous for selling home woven silk and cotton garments. It is somewhat commercialized but a walk back from the highway into the village can net some great bargains on silks and cottons.
'''Phu Phrabat National Park''', 60 km north-west of Udon near the Amphoe of Ban Phue. A marvelous ridgeline with numerous sandstone edifices several thousand years old. Bronze age cave paintings are also within the park.
'''Pu Foi Lom Eco-Park''', 40 km south-west of Udon, located high on a ridgeline. Numerous trails and rainy season water falls are within the park. South of Udon is a large wetlands area/lake called Khumpawapi. In the October time frame traditional dragon boat races are held on the lake. Within Khumpahawapi is a city park with a large troupe of monkeys that have been living there for over a hundred years.
Do
Buy
There is a large Night Market that opens from about 5PM to 10:30PM next to the train station.
'''Chareonsri Center''' is Udon Thani's biggest and fanciest shopping mall, featuring five floors of shopping, including a large '''Robinson's''' department store and a '''TOPS Supermarket'''.
Further out east from the centre is a '''Makro''' store, cheap for bulk purchases) and a '''Big C''' shopping complex (both groceries and assorted goods) with much cheaper pricing than Robinson's.
On the ring road east-side are several large home improvement stores; Home Mart, Global House, and Tool Pro. Also on the east-side ring road is the new Bo Bei Clothing Market.
On the ring road north-side is a Tesco Lotus superstore.
Within the city itself are numerous 7-11's as well as many mini-marts with western snacks and goods.
Eat
Udon Thani has a range of buffet restaurants, featuring Korean-style cook it yourself BBQ in a raised dish over a charcoal burner in the centre of your table. Around the outside of the dish, water is placed allowing vegetables to be boiled. An all you can eat buffet ranges from 39 baht to 89 baht.
'''Chareonsri Center''' our Komplek as it is known buy local thais has all the favorite Western and Thai restaurant chains on the 1st floor, and a large food court on the 3rd.
'''Bella Italia''' (1st floor) tel+fax: 042-343134 (mobile: 01-799-7736) [mailto:bellaitalia_restaurant@yahoo.it bellaitalia_restaurant@yahoo.it] [http://udon-thani-bella-italia-restaurant.com] claims to be the first truly authentic Italian restaurant in Udon Thani, featuring ingredients imported from Italy. English menu, indoor and outdoor seating. Private party bookings and tourist reservations welcome.
Drink
Udon Thani has a wide variety of Karaoke bars, go-go bars, nightclubs and English and American styled pubs. The area around the '''Charoen Shopping Complex''' (locally called ''Komplek'') houses the majority of these.
'''Dong Dea Moon'''. With the sea of motorbikes out the front, this a favourite with locals and has regular appearances by some big-name Thai folk acts.
'''Harmony Bar''' [http://www.harmonyudon.com]. Run by a Thai/Dutch female singer. A bar with live music entertainment.
'''Irish Clock''', [http://www.irishclock.com/]. Authentic Irish pub in the middle of Udon. Two pool tables. Lodging also available.
'''Steve's Bar'''. Run by an English ex-pat and his Thai wife, serving Western and Thai food as well as a selection of International beers and spirits. Just around the corner,
'''Tong's Bar'''. Gay-friendly bar, draws Thais and foreigners, with cheesy Thai pop blaring from the speakers.
Beyond this, bars tend to open and close by the month, if not by the week. The club scene is fairly uni-dimensional with a generic crowd going to the 2 or 3 clubs in town. The best are housed in the basements of the Charoen Grand and Napalai hotels.
Sleep
Inexpensive accommodation can be found around town, including hotels for as little as 160 baht/night, and apartment rentals from 1800 baht/month. Private pool villas can be rented for catered stays of two nights or more.
Gecko Villa. ttp://www.geckovilla.com. Out of town; spacious country house with pool offering fully catered & serviced stays. Sleeps 2-6. Free transfers.
Green Gecko. ttp://www.thaivillarent.com. Large traditional Thai house; luxury villa rental with private swimming pool. Fully catered and serviced. Sleeps 2-4. Free transfers
Chareonsri Grand. ext to the main shopping centre. rom 1,300 baht.. The main hotel used by foreigners.
Charoen Hotel. 49 Phosri Road. rom 950 baht.. 250 standard rooms, 3 superior rooms, and 2 suites, on a 10 acre area surrounded by garden and beautifully landscaped with swimming pools. It is only a few hundred metres to the south-west of the central bus station.
Paradise Hotel. Staff are friendly but only speak a little English. Fan rooms with double bed cost 200 baht but smell a bit funny. Free water (2 bottles per day) and maps of the city.
TaNiTa (Lagoon) Resort. 13 Baan Nong Huaw Mue, Nadee, Muang. km from airport. 66 -81-8846334. anita_resort@yahoo.com. ttp://www.tanitaresort.com/lagoon.htm. 9 standard rooms in big area surrounded by nice lagoon and beautiful garden.
Top Mansion. 00m from Robinson Charoensri shopping mall. 66 -42-345015. opmansion@yahoo.com. Convenient for bus and train stations, and Paolo Memorial Hospital. Rooms 350 baht.
Udon Airport Hotel. 4 Moo 1, Udon-Nongbua Lampoo Road. 00m from airport. 6-42-346223-4, 66-42-346513-4" email="udonairport.hotel@gmail.com. 6-42-346514. ttp://www.udonairporthotel.com. rom 800 baht including breakfast.. On a 7 acre area surrounded by garden and beautiful landscape. 115 standard rooms, 3 superior rooms, and 2 suites. Standard rooms are air-con with mini bar, radio, colour TV with domestic and foreign programs, and 24-hour hi-speed Internet access.
Udon Residence. /2 Chert Sombat Road, Maakaeng, Muang, Udon Thani. 00 meters from shopping mall, off Prajak road and behind 3rd circle (clock circle round-about). 66 -89-5778933. nfo@udonmap.com. ttp://www.udonmap.com/udonresidence. Clean and comfortable rooms with air-con, mini-bar fridge, cable TV, free wireless internet, free tea & coffee. Also available self contained apartment for daily rent with kitchen and living room. Prices start from 450bt.
Silver Reef Bed & Breakfast. 38/8 Prajack Rd. Muang. min walk to Robinson Shopping. 6 42 344-081. ttp://www.silverreefudon.com/. rajack. arkhang. don. Brand New Building in the heart of Udon city, 2 steps to Central Bus Station. Convenient for all your business and leisure needs, Every Room Has: 29_h TV and & Local Cable/ Air-con/ Wi-Fi available. Silver Reef is operated by Canadian management.
Contact
Get out
Vientiane, the capital of Laos, is about one and a half hours away across the Mekong. Express Air conditioned buses leave the Udorn Central bus station six times daily for Vientiane. Bus Fare one way as of 04/2008 is 80 baht. A visa on arrival for Laos at the Friendship Bridge costs $35 for 30 days (two passport photos are required or there is an additional $1 charge).
The Ban Chiang archaeological dig is a UNESCO World Heritage site about 35 kilometers east of Udon. Both buses and inter-village songthaews will drop you off at the Ban Chiang turn-off.