'''Chefchaouen''' (??????) is a gorgeous mountain city in northeastern Morocco. It's no wonder that tourists flock here — this humble town is the embodiment of almost every Moroccan cliche. The picturesque medina, set against the dramatic backdrop of the Rif Mountains, is filled with white-washed homes with distinctive, powder-blue accents, and the call to prayer rings out of several mosques around the town in chorus. If you've got a few days to relax from the rigors of travel, this is a good place to do it. Spanish is widely spoken.

Get in

The '''main bus station''' is a fifteen minute walk from the ''medina''. There are usually a couple of ''petit taxis'' waiting for a customer at the entry. Don't pay more than Dh 10 to get to the ''medina''. If it is hot, or, as is very likely, you have just endured a long coach drive to the town, you should seriously consider climbing into one of these taxis. Likewise, coming to Chefchaouen in the middle of the cold season can only make the ascending walkways as punishing as in the summer. With a heavy backpack, the walk up to the hotels of the town can be fairly strenuous!

Get around

There are plenty of '''''petit taxis''''' to ferry you around the outer town (they are not metered, agree on a price ''before'' you start your trip), but most of the town is walkable, and the ''medina'' can only be traversed on foot.

  • <listing name="Chaouen Rural" alt="" directions="" address="" phone="" email="" fax="" url="http://www.chaouenrural.org" hours="" price="">Organizes interesting trips to the rural part of the Chaouen province, customized according to your interests. If you're interested in food they may send you to El Bellouta where you'll have a few meals with a local family.</listing>
  • See

  • The '''''medina''''' is the focal point of interest for most visitors to Chefchaouen. Walking around the town with its whitewashed walls, originally decorated in this style by Jewish immigrants, can be a nice change to the hustle and bustle of the cities of Marrakech, Rabat, and Fez.
  • The '''waterfall''' to the east of the ''medina'' is a meeting point for local residents who come to cool off, chat and do their laundry. The cafe nearby is rather expensive, however it's a nice change from the main square.
  • The ruins of an old '''mosque''', on a hill behind the waterfall, overlook the ''medina'' and its crumbling tower offers great views of the town.
  • The Kasbah. 0 MAD. Looks quite interesting from the outside, but there isn't much to see inside. The place is well preserved. There's the tower and the prison amongst others that's worth a visit, and the courtyard is green and almost alien amdist the mountain setting. Should only be an option if you're either bored or want to get away from the bustle outside.

    Do

  • '''Take a hike''' through the scenic Rif Mountains. There is a pathway leading up into the mountains just behind the waterfall frequented by backpackers. Don't mind the vast marijuana plantations; the farmers and goat herders that work them are used to tourists and will either ignore you or try to sell you hash. See "Stay safe" below.
  • A strenuous hike up '''Jebel al-Kalaa''' (the peak immediately overlooking the town) is fun, but can take up to 9 hours round trip and goes by (and if you're unlucky, through) big marijuana plantations. The route is not well marked (with white and yellow), and you might have to trail blaze for parts of it if you lose the trail. Start by following the road up the southeastern valley, from where you'll get a good view of town, and look for the markings up the mountain. Bring plenty of water, and some snacks.
  • Buy

    All the usuals are on offer in the medina — carpets, leatherwares, spices, metal wares, etc. If you're a seasoned bargainer you can probably get better prices in Fes or Marrakech, but Chefchaouen is undoubtedly a more pleasant place to shop. You'll also find plenty of hippie-wear aimed at budget travelers and marijuana tourists.

    Leather

    Chaouen is particularly renowned for leather artisans, and there are 4 or 5 workshops dotted through the town, whose goods you can find at many of the local stores and in the larger northern cities. Many of the craftsmen in Fes and Tetouan served their apprenticeships here. The choice in local stores is often limited to bags and purses, so if you're up for it take advantage of the workshops where you can tweak a standard design or come up with something entirely your own, even moving beyond traditional leather into snake, crocodile, lizard and more. They can make pretty much anything, from guitar straps and tobacco pouches, to handbags and jackets. It can take a couple of days to make the more complex designs, so head there on your first day, or have it shipped home (__6 within Europe).

  • Hassan's Workshop. n the eastern medina, between the old olive tree and the waterfall. 212 065 00717. -6ish. ariable prices. Run by a tremendously approachable man called Hassan, it can be found towards the eastern end of the medina, between the old olive tree and the waterfall. Once you're in the vicinity, just ask for "El Taller de Hassan" and you'll be pointed in the right direction (or call ahead). He speaks fluent Spanish and good English & French, and is totally amenable to any peculiarities or requests you might have. He doesn't look for sales out of his workshop, as he makes good trade through the various local stores and a few overseas bulk buyers, but he enjoys making one-off's, which makes for wonderful craftsmanship, great prices and no hassle.

    Eat

    The local specialty is ''baissara'', but you'll also find the usual staples such as ''tajines'' (vegetable stew with goat or sheep) and fish ''tagras''. The region is also well known for olives and olive oil.

  • Granada. blocks up from the main square. ains ~ 25 Dh"Great fish tajine, great couscous.>

  • Chez Chouen. pposite Granada. Also do a great fish tajine, and a shrimp tajine that's more Spanish than Moroccan, but great nonetheless.

  • Auberge Dardara. t 9km from Chefchaouen (Road to Bab-Taza and alhoceima. 39 77 07 07. ttp://dardara.olympe-network.com. uberge.dardara@gmail.com. ) Gastronomic Restaurant with local specialties and local farm product

    Drink

    Alcohol is not readily available. Mint tea is prevalent.

    Sleep

    Accommodation can be tight in the peak periods (mid-July to September) so it's advisable to arrive early or book ahead in these periods. A stroll through the medina will reveal dozens of cheap hotels, starting from Dh 40 per night for a single. Many of these hotels have roof terraces. '''Pension Castellana''' ''(singles from Dh 50)'' has a lovely roof terrace and is popular with backpackers. On arriving in Chefchaouen, you may be met by touts at the bus station. These will probably try to take you to Pension Castellana - but it is advisable to find the place by yourself, because if you arrive with touts, you'll be charged extra so they can get their commission.

  • Hotel Andaluz. Rue Sidi Salem. n the medina. 212 39-986034. A popular little budget hotel with a nice rooftop terrace and cool (occasionally damp if on the ground floor) rooms. It's not far from the main road in the medina, most locals can point the way.

  • Casa Hassan. 212 39 986153. ttp://www.casahassan.com. h 650/800/1050 single/double/triple. Popular traveler hotel in the medina, often booked, is wise to call ahead. Breakfast is included.

  • Dar Rass El Maa. 90 DH+ (Singles). ttp://www.chefchaouen.ch. A charming Guest House below the water source.

  • Auberge Dardara. 39 77 07 07. ttp://dardara.olympe-network.com. 90 DH+ (Singles). At 9km from Chefchaouen (Road to Bab-Taza and alhoceima)

  • Dar Echchaouen. 90 DH+ (Singles). Near the Medina and Ras El Ma.

  • Hostal Gernika. 150 DH/200 DH (With bathroom/Without bathroom). Inside the medina, difhicult to find, very clean, luminous rooms. Has shared showers, with lots of hot water. Spanish spoken.

  • Casa Perleta. ab Souk- Medina. 0212-59988979. ww.casaperleta.com. 50dh. Inside the medina (Bab Souk entrance), freshly renovated. Most rooms have en suite bathrooms. Run by native Spanish speakers.

  • Hostal Aline. v Sidi Ahmed el Uafi, 2. n the eastern side of the medina, a bit away from the central square. bout 40Dh per night per person, breakfast of a loaf of french bread and jam included. A nice, clean place; catch it during low season and you'll likely end up with a room to yourself. Amenities include a big terrace with a hammock, laundry service, kitchen, and 24 hour hot water. The staff don't speak much English.
  • Dar Meziana. ue Zagdud no7 . 21239987806. ttp://www.morocco-travel.com/morocco/DarMeziana/index.html. A beautiful riad carefully decorated by the owners themselves, giving each bedroom an individual character full of warmth and beauty. The use of Tadlakt in the bathrooms, hammered copper sinks, beautifully painted wooden ceilings and hand crafted doors, modern glass bricks and crooked windows, Moroccan lamps and carpets all come together to give this riad a totally unique feel.

    It also has a beautiful roof terrace with the most amazing views over the city, mountains and surrounding countryside.</sleep>

  • Hotel Madrid. ight behind the Kasbah, just before Hotel Parador if you're coming from the bus station. 00-400 MAD/night for a single depending on the season. Great service staff, always willing to help. They have maps and can give information on the town. The rooms aren't special, and have the "cheap hotel" feel. They have hot water - and one cannot stress enough the importance of hot water during the cold months! Ask the desk for your TV remote. The lobby is quaint, and enjoying breakfast while listening to the hotel canary sing (it's a real bird - not a euphemism for a lounge singer) or watching English channels on the lobby TV is a great way to start the day.

    Stay safe

    As Chefchaouen is located on the edge of Morocco's marijuana growing region, touts desperate to extract money from travelers can be a serious problem. They can often be quite persistent and sometimes even threatening. However, smiling, remaining calm, and politely refusing (repeatedly) will usually work without a problem.

    Travelers hiking in the Rif Mountain area close to the town have had stones thrown at them by armed men to scare them away from areas of marijuana production. While most of the growers may ignore you, some may offer to sell to you as well. While many travelers partake in or even come here specifically for the abundance of marijuana, understand that it is definitely illegal and heavily punishable.

    Get out

    If you go with car, you can park at Parador Hotel open-air parking (10 Dhm / day). Very easy to find. Always pay when you leave to avoid paying twice.

    Regular buses depart from the '''long distance bus station''' (see 'Get Around') to destinations around Morocco:

  • Tetouan - hourly buses until 18:00; Dh 15, 90 minutes.
  • Tangier - two buses daily; Dh 27, 3 hours.
  • Rabat - four buses daily, the last at 13:00; Dh 50, 4 hours.
  • Casablanca - three morning buses, the last at 9:00; Dh 60, 5.5 hours.
  • Meknes - three buses, the last at 15:30; Dh 45, 4 hours.
  • Fez - four buses, the last at 13:30; Dh 50, 4 hours.
  • Berbered and Ketama - daily buses at 08:00; Dh 20, 3 hours.
  • '''''Grand taxis''''' to Tetouan and Tangier depart from a street just off Plaza Mohammed V. Get to Septa (Spanish Ceuta) by taking the bus through Tetouan to Fnidek and then taking a cab to the border. Ignore touts trying to sell you documents at the border, since they are free at the passport window. No CTM buses go to Septa, so you'll have to rely on regional. Don't pay more than 5Dh for a piece of luggage, and don't hand anybody big bills: they'll just walk away with them.