'''Mui Ne''' is a nice resort area near Ho Chi Minh City in the south of Vietnam.

Understand

Northeast of Phan Thiet the coastal road climbs over the slope of a Cham-Tower-topped hill and descends onto the long, sandy crescent of Mui Ne Bay. The formerly little-inhabited beach south of the fishing village of Mui Ne proper has seen some serious development in the last 15 years. Now it's a 15-km long strip of resorts that line up like pearls on Nguyen Dinh Chieu street, shaded by coconut palms. The main resort strip lies between the addresses of 2 and 90 Nguyen Dinh Chieu and is actually named Ham Tien.

Given the choice, nature would move the sand around, much to the dismay of some developers. Beach sand tends to migrate southward, leaving some (but not all) spots above 90 Nguyen Dinh Chieu with just a concrete breakwater rather than sandy beach. Accommodations at higher addresses tend to be smaller and less expensive, somewhat removed from the main tourist section and more mixed in more with local life. If a sandy beach is important to you, some research is called for before booking in that area.

A few bargain hotels have popped up on the inland side of the road, across from the beach-side resorts. If you stay on the inland side, you will need to pass though one of the resorts to reach the beach, which might or might not result in some hassle from the guards. The resorts jealously guard their lounge chairs and palapas, though the beach itself is open to everyone. If all else fails, you can always access a nice sandy stretch of beach via the Wax Bar at 68 Nguyen Dinh Chieu.

Get in

By bus

Most overseas visitors reach Mui Ne via "Open Tour" buses that run between Ho Chi Minh City and Nha Trang. Most depart from HMC between 7:30 and 9:00AM (7.30AM for Sinh Cafe in air-conditioned bus and arrive at Mui Ne at about 1 PM). In the opposite direction, buses typically depart from Mui Ne around 2PM and arrive in HCMC at 7PM. Outside HCMC, the coach will stop at a petrol station with a pretty large shop and stalls selling snacks, drinks and fruit. The buses stop in the heart of the tourist strip in Mui Ne, so there is no need to take a taxi. The cost is about US$6 each way, and tickets are sold all over the tourist districts of both HCMC and Nha Trang. If you are traveling to HCMC from Mui Ne, you will most likely be put on an already full bus traveling from Nha Trang. Since you are not assigned a seat you may not be able to sit with any traveling companions, and at some of the less scrupulous travel agents you may not even get a real seat (we were put on a mat at the back of the bus with four other people).

Public buses from both destinations also travel to Mui Ne, though finding the departure stations and figuring out the schedule is difficult for visitors. It's not worth the trouble unless you have a strong need to depart at a different time of day than when the Open Tour bus leaves. Travel agencies play dumb because they don't earn anything from helping you find a public bus.

By train

A train runs daily from HCMC to Phan Thiet, departing around 6:30AM and arriving five hours later. The return trip leaves Phan Thiet around 1PM. The cost is quite modest at around 60,000 dong per person each way (similar to the bus). The train station in HCMC (Ga Sai Gon) is in District 3, about 3 km from the center. The train station in Phan Thiet is about five km (80,000-dong taxi ride) from the beginning of the Mui Ne resort strip, and taxis are abundant to take you there. The railway also sometimes runs a mid-sized bus from the station to Mui Ne for 25,000 dong per person. Tickets are sold on the train, though the announcement might be made in Vietnamese only, and you need to watch carefully for the ticket sellers to pass by.

The train has regular carriages operated by the state railways, and sometimes other carriages booked and operated by private companies. The latter have somewhat larger seats for a higher price, but fall short of luxury. The regular carriages are a bit cramped for the western-sized body. When the train is not full, railway staff usually pack everyone into one carriage, leaving another one empty, and then run a side business selling "upgrades" to the quiet, empty carriage. The entire train will be jammed on on holidays.

Overall, the train is probably less comfortable and convenient than the open-tour bus, though it has some advantages -- you get a better view of the countryside and avoid the endless honking of horns and lunatic driving of the bus drivers.

Get around

You can't get lost in Mui Ne, since the whole place consists of one long strip along a main street, Nguyen Dinh Chieu. Xe oms are everywhere and their drivers will bug you each time you leave the hotel. Bargain hard to get appropriate prices (10,000 to 15,000 dong is more than enough to pay for a ride from one place to another along the main strip.) Taxis are also abundant, with fares slightly higher than HCMC but still reasonable (starting at 12,000 dong and going to around 20,000 dong). The local

You can also rent motorbikes and bicycles at many resorts and tour agencies. Since traffic is light, motorbikes or bicycles are a pleasant way to explore the surroundings. Motorbikes cost anywhere from 60,000 to 150,000 dong per day depending on how late in the day you start, how many hours you need, and age / type of motorbike (automatics can cost 230,000 dong). The locals say it's getting harder to rent because of bike thefts and police enforcement of Vietnamese driving license. Your hotel may rent to you, which may be a bit more convenient since they already have your passport.

Even-numbered addresses are on the sea-side of the street, and odd numbers on the inland side. Even and odd addresses do not line up closely in the main resort strip, so (for example), 39 on the odd side is several hundred meters from 40 on the even side.

See

  • '''Po Shanu''' tower is a derelict remainder of the ancient Cham culture that was built in the 8th century.
  • '''Fish Sauce Plants''', where the famous nuoc mam is produced. Big jars harbour the concoction that, after months in the blazing sun, is sold all over Vietnam to add some spice to the food.
  • The famous '''Sand Dunes''', on the main coastal road a short distance north of the fishing town at the north end of Mui Ne bay, about 10 km from the main resort strip. The whole region is fairly sandy, with orange sand threatening to blow onto the coastal road in some spots. The dunes that visitors visit are about two square km of open sand on a hillside with ten-meter undulations, staffed by dusty children with plastic slides, who will offer instruction and assistance if you want to slide on the sand (and be somewhat pesky and disappointed if you don't.) For their services, the children will be happy with 20,000 dong, or grudgingly content with 10,000. The dunes also offer nice views of the sea coast to the north. In all, it's worth a half-hour visit, especially if you have rented your own motorbike for the day. On the opposite side of the road are a series of small cafes, where you can park your motorbike for a small fee if you ride there on your own. Most day tours sold by local tour operators include a stop at the dunes. The trip by taxi from the main resort strip would be about 150,000 dong each way, and less by xe om.
  • '''Mui Ne market and fishing harbour'''. Don't miss out on an excursion to this quiet little village, at the north end of Mui Ne bay. The coastal road leads straight into the town (with a left turn required to continue up the coast). At the entrance to town is an overlook with a splendid view of hundreds of colorful fishing boats moored in the bay. Further along into town, just off the main road, there is a small but colorful market. If you take your transport just down to the water, you will reach the fishing harbour, where you can purchase fresh seafood (if you have any means to cook it) or purchase steamed crabs, shellfish, etc. to eat on the spot from local vendors. Walking along the beach, you'll pass by fishermen sorting out their catch, ship-wharfs and, at the southern end of town, a section where clams have been ridded of their shells for many years, so the sand on the beach is by now substituted with littered shells.
  • The '''Fairy Stream''' is a little river that winds its way through bamboo forests, boulders and the dunes behind the village, in parts resembling a miniature version of the grand canyon. You can walk up via the sandy hills overlooking the oasis-like valley and return by wading in the waters.
  • Do

  • '''Swimming'''. The sea is wonderfully warm, but it can be quite rough, with large waves and a strong rip tide. When the tide is in, there isn't much of a beach to speak of. The area between kilometer markers 11 and 13 has the largest stretch of enduring sandy beach. Most mid-range and top-end resorts have swimming pools for their guests. Some are open for day users starting at 80,000 dong per day.
  • '''Wind and kite surfing''' is offered by several outfitters and hotels. Kite surfing instruction is available, starting at $70USD/hour.
  • '''Water Sports'''. Wind and kite surfing are the most popular sports, but most outfitters also offer a host of other water sports including kayaking, paddle surfing, and jet ski rental.
  • '''Day Tours'''. Travel agents and restaurants abound with day tour offerings. The standard half day tour ($10-13 USD) takes in the fishing village, fairy stream, and the red and while sand dunes. Tours normally start at either 5:00AM or 2:30PM so you can watch the sunrise/sunset over the sand dunes.
  • Buy

    Along the Mui Ne strip are several small nameless shops; all selling the same sundries and souvenirs. You can find packaged snacks (Oreos, cakes, biscuits, ice cream, etc), liquor, clothing, and souvenirs.

    Anything beyond very basic '''neccessities''' should be brought with you. There is a small pharmacy, but it would be wise to bring your own first aid kit.

    Standard '''souvenirs''' offered include wooden and laquered bowls, wooden statues, snake whiskey, and pearl necklaces. Compared with Ho Chi Minh City, souvenirs are almost five times more expensive in Mui Ne. The same small wooden bowl selling for $3USD in HCMC is priced at $14USD in Mui Ne.

    Several travel agencies along the strip also double as '''used book stores'''. Most have a few shelves of English books, along with a small selection in German and French. Books cost 80,000 - 100,000 dong and most shops will cut the cost in half if you trade in a book.

  • Coop Mart. han Thiet. orner of Nguyen Tat Thanh and Tran Hung Dao. A large, Western-style grocery store that also sells books, jewelry, and necessities. If you can't find what you're looking for in Mui Ne, you may have better luck here.

    Eat

    Every resort area is surrounded by restaurants specializing in seafood. The food is invariably fresh, well-prepared, and served in friendly and interesting surroundings. By all means get out of your hotel and try one of the local restaurants.

  • '''Eden Bar and Restaurant''', 39A Nguyen Dinh Chieu Street, ''opposite SeaHorse Resort''. 9AM-Midnight. Already famous from its branches in Saigon and Phu Quoc, has just set up shop in Mui Ne. Serving delicious International, as well as Vietnamese cuisine and boasting a cocktail selection of over 50 favourites, it's one of the only places in Mui Ne where you really get your money's worth and get to enjoy delicious food. Seafood is cooked in the BBQ area by the trained chefs. Look for the beautifully lit up tree outside the bar at night.
  • '''Lâm Tòng''', 92 Nguy?n ?inh Chieu, T:062-3847598. is right on the beach next to Jibes under some shady palms. You can even sit at tables in the sand. There's a little hut with hammocks strung. Try one of the pancakes (banh xeo) with condensed milk (s?a ??c), the fried fish with lemon, and the chicken fried in fish sauce.
  • '''Smoky House''', 125 Nguyen Dinh Chieu Street. Offers large, high-quality meals, and offers all customers free ice cream.
  • Joe's - The Arts Cafe. cross from Shades Resort. :00 AM - 1:00 AM. rinks 10,000 - 60,000 dong, meals 50,000 - 120,000 dong. Cozy cafe offering Western fare. A Canadian developed the menu, and the pancakes with maple syrup (50,000 dong including coffee) are great. The sandwiches (60,000 dong) are also recommended. Two movies are shown each evening in the pillow-filled loft. Free WiFi.

    Drink

    If you're in the middle of the Mui Ne strand and want to wring out as much of the day and night as you can then you might consider the Wax Bar if you're a beach party type or The Club if you like casino, disco, karaoke, billiards etc.

  • '''Wax Bar''', on the beach at 68 Nguyen Dinh Chieu (beside Rach Dua Tropico Resort; take the alley on the NE side to the beach, pool on your right, bar on your left). By day, it's a fairly empty spot for hanging out in the shade, watching the kite surfers, playing a little sand soccer or beach ultimate, and enjoying the pool or waves if you are not attached to a resort. It's a delightful spot at sundown, with pleasant breeze and pastel sky and your choice of beach-side tables, since the cool crowd does not arrive until late. After 10 pm it's one of the "places to be" in Mui Ne, with a large young party crowd. Mats, pillows and torches are set out on the beach below with a pleasant mix of music coming from above. Those evenings are bliss. Located north of Coco Beach Resort.
  • '''The Club''', 56-97 Nguyen Dinh Chieu across from Saigon Mui Ne Resort. For the casino, discotheque, billiard, karaoke suite type. Has all the casual elegance you could want.
  • '''DJ Station''', 120C Nguyen Dinh Chieu (300 m right when facing Sinh Cafe). Open 9AM-3AM. It's the newest bar/club to open in Mui Ne. With an ocean view terrace area, dining area and large dancefloor, it's the perfect place to relax and get something to eat by day, and the hottest place to party at night. Featuring a PRO DJ from HCMC every night, ice cold Saigon beers for just a dollar, cheap but delicious food, friendly welcoming staff and an unrivalled sound system, it's quickly becoming the number one backpacker bar in Mui Ne. Happy hour 6-9 means selected cocktails are just 30,000 dong, and regular priced cocktails are all buy one get one free.
  • Sleep

    Mui Ne has dozens of properties to choose from, in every price category (US$15-200), along the main ocean strip.

    Accommodations at higher addresses tend to be smaller and less expensive, somewhat removed from the main tourist section and more mixed in more with local life. If a sandy beach is important to you, some research is called for before booking in that area. Many "beach side" resorts are actually against a sloping cement wall that leads into the sea.

    A few bargain hotels have popped up on the inland side of the road, across from the beach-side resorts. If you stay on the inland side, you will need to pass though one of the resorts to reach the beach, which might or might not result in some hassle from the guards. The resorts jealously guard their lounge chairs and palapas, though the beach itself is open to everyone. If all else fails, you can always access a nice sandy stretch of beach via the Wax Bar at 68 Nguyen Dinh Chieu.

    Remember that during Tet (Vietnamese New Year), hotels are booked way in advance.

    NOTE: Beware, mosquitoes are a big nuisance in Mui Ne. So bring either insect repellent or long-sleeved shirts and pants for the evening. You may also consider bringing/buying the fun mosquito-killing racket (maybe 50,000 dong) to "sanitize" your room before sleeping soundly to the break of ocean waves.

    Budget

  • '''Hon Di Bungalows''', 70 Nguyen Dinh Chieu (km 13), Trl: 062-847014, hdhongdi@yahoo.com. Has simple but nice bungalows with fan and attached bath for US$10-12. There is a shady courtyard strung with hammocks, and four of the bungalows are directly facing the beachfront. A small restaurant and Internet-access cater for your needs.
  • '''BAO TRANG''' A nice small bungalow with a beach frontage a few doors away from Sinh Cafe ( turn right when exiting from Sinh Cafe office) Rooms are US$10 and $15 for fan and air-conditioned rooms respectively.
  • Mid-Range

  • '''Ngoc Suong Marina Hotel''', directly across the road from TM Brothers Cafe, beside Tien Dat Resort. On the beach, with an excellent swimming pool. Rooms have mosquito nets, A/C, satellite tv, and ensuite bathroom. Seaside room with private balcony is $40USD including an excellent breakfast.
  • Contact

    Free '''WiFi''' connections can be found in several resorts and restaurants. Joe's - The Arts Cafe has a good WiFi connection.

    There are a few '''Internet Cafes''' along the strip with ASDL connections and charging 5,000 dong/hour.

    Cope

    '''Laundry''' services are offered by several restaurants and hotels. Upscale hotels charge 1,000 - 5,000 dong per piece of clothing. Budget hotels and restaurants charge 15,000 dong/kg. Confirm they will machine wash and dry your clothes (and if not, go elsewhere). Be sure to check your clothes immediately when you pick them up: t-shirts have gone missing and if you don't realize until the next day it is almost pointless to go back and ask.

    There are a couple '''ATM machines''' along the strip. Vietcombank has a 24hr ATM near 12.3km marker, with another ATM located just past it.

    Get out

    <!-- This section is for places to visit next or on day trips.-->

    There are dozens of small travel agencies along the Mui Ne strip that sell daily excursions around Mui Ne, as well as airline, rail, or open tour bus tickets to other cities. Be sure to shop around since some unscrupulous agents will often overcharge the unwary buyer.

    The bus journey to Nha Trang takes about 5 hours.Departure for Nha Trang is at about 1 PM and 1AM.

    Sinh Cafe buses stop right inside the compound of a large guest house in Nha Trang. The beach is just across the road. Air-conditioned rooms are US10. Rooms are spotless and even at this rate, rooms are cleaned daily.