'''Bir''' is a town in Himachal Pradesh with a large Tibetan (Khampa) community.
Understand
Bir is a small mountain town in northern Himachal Pradesh with a large, well-established Tibetan community. Set against the backdrop of the Himalayas, the town is picturesque, but the streets are garbage strewn and not well maintained. There is Indian farming community located in the hills behind the town.
Get in
By bus
Bir is two-and-a-half to three hours from Dharamsala.
'''From Dharamsala''': Take a bus to Palampur, then to Baijnath, then to Bir-road. From there, take a bus or taxi to "Bir Tibetan Colony".
'''From Delhi''': From the Inter-state Bus Terminal (ISBT), take bus to either Baijnath or Bir Road - the latter is closer, but many buses only go as far as Baijnath. There are two overnight buses leaving Delhi. Both depart mid evening.
By toy train
There is a morning train from Pathankot to Ahju, which is only 3kms from Bir. Trains from Delhi arrive at Pathankot an hour before the toy train leaves. The ride is long, tiring and often crowded but the stunning scenery more than compensates for any inconveniences.
By taxi
This is the most convenient way of getting to Bir from Pathankot or Dharamsala.
Taxis from Bir Road (the final destination of long distance buses) to the main bazaar or Deer Park should not cost more than 70 to 80rs
Get around
Sherab Ling is a one-and-a-half hour walk from the town.
Upper Bir (or Indian Bir as it is often referred) is within walking distance of the Tibetan community.
See
'''Dzongsar Institute'''. A Buddhist college with several thousand monks.
'''Sherab Ling'''. A Kagyu Monastery headed by Tai Situpa Rinpoche, located in woodland.
'''River pools''' in Upper Bir.
'''Teagardens'''.
Do
'''Paraglide''' from the mountaintop at Billing, but if you take a tandem flight check that the pilot is carrying a reserve parachute & ask him to show you the age sticker of his glider, if it's more that 7 pr 8 years old, think again, there is no maintenance programme or safety check on the equipment
Learn
'''Buddhism'''. Deer Park Institute [http://www.deerpark.in/] (located in the Dzongsar Institute campus) offers courses and workshops to explore various aspects of the Dharma. All classes are taught in English.
Buy
Every day shopping can be done in Bir Tibetan Colony. In upper Bir you'll find a post-office. In nearby Chauntra you can shop for basic kitchenware. In Joginder Nagar and Bajnath are a few pharmacies, hardware stores, shops with decorative items, drugstores, shops with basic domestic appliances. For more choice in clothing and appliances and for garden centres go to Palampur. Go to Dharamsala to buy books, Kashmir shawls and silver jewelry, Tibetan religious items, cheese, curd, pies, ice-cream, pasta, pizza, salads, french fries and sandwiches.
Eat
Emaho Cafe has recently changed hands & no longer offers good food - simple boring "chinese" food is all they now serve - an institution lost. Another possibility is "Friends' Cafe", although their menu promises more variety than they actually can offer, & the owner is always telling westerners how poor she is & asking for help. Try Gang-Chen Cafe on the second floor above the bank. New is the Himalaya cafe, which has some tasty "bif" (cow mutton) dishes
the Joy Cafe is simple & cheap, good paronthas
Drink
'''Buckstars Coffee Shop''', main bazaar. Offers gourmet coffee, tea and muffins.
Sleep
Budget
Dzongsar Guesthouse. 91 (1894) 251-665; 251-787. s.150 for double bed room, Rs.100 for single bed room. An eight room guest house. Big, cold rooms - sometimes solar heated water for showers. No restaurant
Chokling Guesthouse. 91 (1894) 268-334; 94180 17934. s.250 for double bed room, Rs.200 for single bed room. Pleasant rooms. Sometimes solar heated showers. You will be disturbed day and night by roaring motorbikes (monks) and disco music (monks).
Emaho Guesthouse. 91 (1894) 268-197; 9816212678" fax="" price="Rs.220 for double bed room, url=". Recently renovated so all rooms have attached bath , no longer very cheap.
Palden Guesthouse. s.250 for double bed room, Rs.200 for single bed room. Electric heated showers. Nice hostess and husband. Beware of womanizing older son. Very clean.
Bir Resort Hotel. 91 (1894) 268-367; 9810685753. irhotel@rediffmail.com. s.400 for double bedrooms. Electric heated showers.Restaurant facilities,12 bedrooms,www.birresorthotel.com.
Stay healthy
The water in Bir is very clean - it comes from a spring in the mountains above any village, it's drinkable except during the monsoon when the groundwater can pollute the system Check the date on the bottles of soft drinks in all places, including shops.
Tibetan government clinic (regular medicine)(low-price vaccinations, e.g. Hepatitis B).
Tibetan Men-Tse Kang (traditional Tibetan medicine).
Homeopathic clinic, veterinary clinic (extremely cheap), Western medical clinic (low-price vaccinations, e.g. rabies, tetanus), Upper Bir.
Government doctor> cross-roads to Chauntra.
Accupuncture & chinese medecine Dr Norbu, near the main square, very good with sprains & sore backs
Get out
'''Bir''' is two-and-a-half to three hours from Dharamsala.
'''Shiva Temple''' – very old and beautiful, in nearby Baijnath
Tashi Jong – another Tibetan settlement with a monastery and temple