'''Nan''' (????) is a town in the remote valley of the Nan river in Northern Thailand, bordering Laos. The area is heavily forested with arable land used mainly for agriculture. It is an ancient city steeped in history with its long association with the Lannathai culture and the Sukhothai kingdom.

Understand

Little-known Nan goes back to the depths of the history of Thailand. For centuries it was an separate, autonomous kingdom with few relationship with the outside world.

There are many evidence of prehistoric habitation, but it wasn't until several small ''meuang'' united to form Nanthaburi on the Nan river in the mid-14th century - contemporary with the creation of Luang Prabang and the Lan Xang (Million Elephants) kingdom in Laos - that the city became a power to be taken into account. Associated with the mighty Sukhothai kingdom, the ''meuang'' took the title Wara Nakhon and played a significant part in the development of early Thai nationalism.

By the end of the 14th_century Nan was one of the nine northern Thai-Lao principalities that comprised Lan Na Thai (now Lanna) and the city state flourished throughout the 15th century under the name Chiang Klang (Middle City), a reference to its position roughly midway between Chiang Mai (New City) and Chiang Thong (''Golden City'', which is today's Luang Prabang. The Burmese took control of the kingdom in 1558 and deported many of the inhabitants to Burma as slaves; the city was completely deserted until western Thailand was retaken from the Burmese in 1786. The local dynasty then regained local sovereignty and it remained semi-autonomous until 1931 when Nan finally accepted full Bangkok dominion. Parts of the old city wall and several early wat dating from the Lanna period can be seen in contemporary Nan. The city of Nan's wats are distinctive: some temple structures show Lanna influence, while others belong to the Tai Lu language, a legacy brought from Xishuangbanna in China, where the Tai Lu's came from.

Orientation

The city spreads out along around 4 km, between the ''' airport ''' at the North end of the town and the Bus station at the Southern one but its '''historical and commercial centre''' is more compact. Its area follows roughly a North-South direction, along the right bank of the river Nan. The two main axes of the town, more or less parallel, are the ''Th Sumonthewarat'' (the easternmost one and the closest to the river) and the ''Th Mahayot''. The city_fs '''main monuments''' are located at the junction of the three parallel axes, the ''Th Pha Kong'' (West), the ''Th Mahayot'' (middle) and the ''Th Sumonthewarat'' (East) and the ''Th Suriyapong'' which is perpendicular to them. As to the main '''shops''', they can be found along the ''Th Sumonthewarat'' and its perpendicular, the ''Th Anantaworattidet''.

In the town, three '''bridges''' connect the right bank to the left bank of the river Nan : the southernmost, the ''Sriboonruang bridge'', the middle one, the ''Pattana Paknue bridge'', under which are held the boat racing and the northernmost, the ''Nakorn Nan Pattana bridge'', seriously damaged during the August 2006 floods but fixed since the beginning of July 2007.

Get in

Nan is connected by plane and by bus to the rest of the country.

  • [http://www.pbair.com PB Air] connects Nan to Bangkok four times a week (Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday). The '''airport''' is located at the northern end of the town, on the Pua road, about 1.5 km from downtown.
  • By '''road''', it takes from 10 to 13 hours, according to the type of bus, to travel from Nan to Bangkok. Regular buses also run from Nan to Chiang Mai (6-7 hours), Chiang Rai (6-7 hours), Phrae (2 hours) and Phitsanulok (5 hours). The '''main bus station''' (Baw Khaw Saw) is located at the southern edge of the town, at the end of a road perpendicular (turning left when arriving from Bangkok) to the ''Wiangsa/Phrae/Bangkok road''.
  • Get around

    The local means of transport include ''sawngthaews'', motorbike-taxis and trishaws.

    See

    Nan National Museum

    The '''Nan National Museum''' is located in the original palace of the last two Feudal Lords of Nan. The building was originally constructed, in 1903 by ''Phra Chao Suriyapnong Phalidet'', the last but one Lord of Nan to replace his former wooden residence. After the death of the ''Chao Maha Brahma Surathada'', the last Lord of Nan, his heirs donated this palace to the government in 1931 in order to be used as the provincial hall. The museum (''Th Pha Kong; admission 30B; 9AM-4PM Mon-Sat'') was inaugurated in 1973 after the new provincial hall building had been erected. Thanks to relatively recent renovations, it is one of Thailand's most up-to-date provincial museums, contrary to many of them, it also has English labels for many items on display. The ground level is divided into six exhibition rooms with ethnological exhibits dealing with the various ethnic groups round in the province, including the northern Thais, Thai Lu, Htin, Khamu, Mabri, Hmong and Mien. Silver work, textiles, folk utensils and tribal costumes can be found on display . Exhibits on Nan history, archeology, local architecture, royal regalia, weapons, ceramics and religious art are shown on the second floor, divided into two sections. The first is the main hal whic used ro be the throne hall of the Feudal Lord. The second consists of the rooms in the north and south wings. The museum exhibits a wide collection of Buddha images which includes some rare Lanna styles as well as the floppy-eared local styles. Usually made from wood, these standing images are in the 'calling for rain' posture (with hands at the sides, pointing down) and they show an obvious Luang Prabang influence. Also on display on the 2nd floor is a rare black (in fact reddish-brown) elephant tusk said to have been offered to a Nan king over 300 years ago by the ''Khun'' lord of Chiang Tung (Kengtung). Held aloft by a wooden Garuda (mythical bird) sculpture, the tusk measures 97 cm long and 47 cm in circumference. Books on Thai art and archeology are sold in a building adjacent to the museum.

    King of Nan_fs Teak House

    Built in 1866 with golden teak and reconstructed in 1941, this large house (''Th Mahaprom'', opposite the backwards entrance of the '''Wat Phra That Chang Kham''') is now the residence of ''Chao Sompradhana Na Nan''. It exhibits heritage antiques such as ancient weapons, war elephant ivory and photographs by King Rama V. Contact the owner for visiting (Tel. 0 5471 0605).

    The Old Wall

    Constructed in 1885 by ''Chao Anantavorarittidet'', Nan_fs ruler, the wall was built in place of an old log wall destroyed by flood in 1817. Remnants of the wall - around 400 m out of the original 3 600 m - can be seen at the junction of the ''Th Mahawong'' and the ''Th Rob Muang'', at the South-West end of the town.

    Wat Phumin

    '''Nan''''s most famous wat is renowned for its cruciform ''bot'' that was constructed in 1596 and restored during the reign of '' Chao Ananta Vora Ritthi Det '' (1867-74). It is the only built temple as if it were on the backs of two immense snakes (or Naga). Each of the four entries is preceded by a small corridor surmounted by a point shaped finely decorated (underlining the royal origin of the temple) structure and is equipped with smoothly carved doors, with Chinese demon guards in the East, flowers in the North and forest life motives of Lanna style in the West and the South. The wat_fs interior is impressive. It is also a good example of Thai Lue architecture. The structure of the roof is supported by twelve teak pillars decorated with gold on black and red lacquer and elephants motives. The ceiling is also finely decorated. The flowered altar resting in the center of the'' bot'' supports four Buddhas of Sukhothai style in the Bhumisparsha-Mudra (_gBuddha Invoking Mother-Earth, Bhumi to be His Witness _h or _gvictory over Mara_h - the hand pointed down to the earth with the fingers touching the ground), facing the four directions. The shape of their ears and of their nose shows a Lao influence. Aside to the altar, sits a splendid '' thammdat '' (a ''dhamma seat'' used by teaching monks). Murals of great value and well preserved illustrating tales from the Jataka are on the northern and the Western walls as well as scenes of the local life of the time when they were painted (Europeans can even been noticed - a probable reference to the arrival of the French to which the East of the Nan valley area was yielded in 1893. ) Thai Lue were carried out during the restoration of the temple by artists at the end of the 19th century. The style is rather distinctive quite far from the traditional style and is close to the murals of the ''' Wat Phra Singh ''' of Chiangmai. The setting is however, here, that of the culture and the everyday life of Thai Lue. The two most famous scenes are of greater dimensions than the majority of the other paintings: a man whispering to the ear of a woman (on the Southern side of the Western door) and the portrait painted on the side of the Southern door, which could be the king '' Chao Ananta Vora Ritthi Det''_fs. Other natural size paintings on each side of the main entry are of Chinese influence which can be explained by the origins of Thai Lue.

    Wat Phra That Chae Haeng

    Two kilometers past the bridge that spans the Nan River, heading southeast out of town, this temple dating from 1355 , under the reign of ''Pray Kan Muang'', is the most sacred wat in Nan Province. It's set in a square, walled enclosure on top of a hill with a view of Nan and the valley. The Thai Lue influenced ''bot'' features a triple-tiered roof with carved wooden eaves and dragon reliefs over the doors. A gilded Lanna-style stupa sits on a large square base next to the ''bot'' with sides 22.5m long; the entire stupa is 55.5m high.

    Wat Phra That Chang Kham

    After '''Wat Phra That Chae Haeng''', this wat is the second-most important temple (''Th Pha Kong'') in the city. The main vihara, reconstructed in 1458, has a huge seated Buddha image and faint murals. Also in the vihara is a set of Lanna-period scrolls inscribed (in Lanna script) not only with the usual Buddhist scriptures but also with the history, law and astrology of the time. A ''thammdat'' (a ''dhamma seat'' used by monks when teaching) sits to one side. The magnificent stupa behind the vihara dates from the 14th century, probably around the same time the temple was founded, It features 24 elephant supports similar to those seen in Sukhothai and Si Satchanalai. Next to the stupa is a small, insignificant ''bot'' from the same era. '''Wat Phra That Chang Kham''' is also eminent by having the largest ''haw trai'' (Tripitaka library) in Thailand, but it is now empty.

    Wat Hua Khuang

    This small wat diagonally opposite '''Wat Phra That Chang Kham''' comprises a distinctive Lanna / Lan Xang-style stupa with four Buddha niches, a wooden ''haw trai'' - now used as a ''kuti'' (monk cell) - and a noteworthy ''bot'' with a Luang Prabang-style carved wooden veranda. A carved wooden ceiling and a huge naga altar can be found inside. Stylistic cues suggest this may be one of the city's oldest wats though the temple's founding date is unknown

    Wat Suan Tan

    Supposedly established in 1456, the ''' Wat Suan Tan ''' (''Palm Grove Monastery; Th Suan Tan'') comprises an interesting stupa of the 15th century (40 m high) which combines Hindu/Khmer style motives (stupa in form of ''prang'') and, surmounting it, an obviously Sukhothai style motive in the shape of a lotus bud, modified in its current form in 1914. The heavily restored vihara contains the Phra Chao Thong Thipun, out of of early Sukhothai style bronze sitting Buddha in Bhumisparsha-Mudra. It measures 4,10 meters and could have been ordered by the Chiangmai sovereign Tilokaraj following its conquest of ''' Nan ''' in 1449.

    Wat Min Muang

    This temple is located close to the '''Wat Phumin''' on the same side of the ''Th Suriyaphong'', further west. Its ubosoth's exterior is embellished with elegant bas-relief stucco while its interior is adorned with mural paintings depicting Nan people's way of life, painted by present-day local artists. The Holy City Pillar is enshrined in the four-sided Thai styled pavilion in front of the ubosoth. This pillar is 3 meters high, stands on a carved gilded wooden base and is topped with a four-faced Brahma, representing the four virtues on Buddhism. It is an ancient Thai totem that is still very significant. The city pillars were probably erected as a ritual centre for agrarian fertility rites in ancient Thai towns and kingdoms, in the heart of the old cities and just next to the seat of power of a king or a chief.

    Wat Phaya Phu

    Located in the ''Th. Phaya Phu'', west from the Main Police Station, this '''wat''' was built during the reign of ''Pra Chao Phukheng'' and is about six centuries old. There is a big ''chedi'' behind the ''vihara'' whare are enshrined two ancient Buddha images. The vihara's door are carved with image of mythical giant guards.

    Wat Phra That Khao Noi

    This '''wat''' is located on the top of ''Khao Noi'' hill, two kilometers west of the town. The hill is 800 feet high. The recent temple buildings are nothing special but from the top of the hill, easily accessed by a road, one can see, side by side with a giant Buddha statue, the entire Nan town

    Do

    '''Boat racing'''

    For centuries, long-boat racing have been held annually in provinces with a major waterway running through. Long-boat racing is one of the traditional rites which commemorates the end of the Buddhist Rains Retreat. It takes place mainly in the 10th and/or 11th lunar months (around September/October) when the water level is at its peak. At present, long-boat racing is considered as a national sport. Its history can be traced back to Ayutthaya period, some 600 years ago. In that time, boat racing however was only a way to keep boat means fit for national defense.

    Racing boats are usually made from dugout tree trunks and can accommodate up to 60 oarsmen (commonly dressed in the same colour) in a double row. The festival event attracts several hundreds of spectators. Trophies and prizes are given to the winning teams at the end The races on the Nan river are colourful and unequaled because the racing boats are brightly adorned with imaginatively designed prows. The cheering squads on the river bank are usually rumbustious and joyful..

    Buy

    Handicraft

    Good buys include local textiles, especially the Thai Lu weaving styles. Typical Thai Lu fabrics feature red and black designs on white cotton in floral, geometric and animal designs and also indigo and red on white. The ''lai naam lai'' (flowing-water design) shows stepped patterns representing streams, rivers and waterfalls. Other excellent quality textiles are the local Hmong applique and the Mien embroidery.

    Htin grass-and-bamboo baskets and mats and hmong silverware are also available.

  • '''Hill Tribe House''' Hill Tribe Silver _ ''436, Th. Sumonthewarat'' _ Website : [http://www.hilltribehouse.com Hill Tribe House] E-mail: hilltribehouse@yahoo.com _ Mobile : 6601 472434 / Fax : 66054 750691.
  • '''Pongparn''' _ [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/One_Tambon_One_Product OTOP] shop _ ''10/4 Suriyapong'' _ Tel : 66547 5733 Portable : 01595 5777 _ E-mail : pongparn@pongparn.com
  • '''Lan Nan Som Noek''' (no English sign) _ ''347/7 Th. Sumonthewarat''
  • '''Jaangtrakoon''' ''Th. Sumonthewarat'' _ Mainly clothes..
  • Others

  • '''7/11''' _ ''32/4, Th. Khao Luang'', ''_Th. Anataworarithidej'', ''_Th. Worrawichai (Opposite to Nan Hospital)''
  • '''Nara Department Store''' or '''Old Nara''' _ ''400/1, Th. Sumonthewarat''
  • '''Nara Hyper mark''' or '''New Nara''' (The biggest department store inside the town, with a parking lot), ''Th. Sumonthewarat'' (Opposite to Soi Aranyawat 2) _ A big sign points it out.
  • '''Tesco Lotus''' (The biggest department store in town) _ ''Wiangsa/Phrae road'', about 2 km from the town..
  • '''Easyintersoft''' (software and hardware) _ ''345/8, Th. Sumonthewarat'' _
  • '''KODAK''' (processing, passport photos, batteries...) _ ''347/4, Th. Sumonthewarat''.
  • '''Drugstore''' (the best wine cellar of Nan, many vintage ? end of the 80_fs, beginning of the 90_fs -French wine, " moderate" prices) _ ''347/6, Th. Sumonthewarat''
  • Eat

    Budget

  • The '''Ratchaphatsadu market''', between the ''Th Sumonthewarat'' and the ''Th Khao Luang'' close to the ''Dhevaraj Hotel''. _ For take-away dishes (chicken or fish BBQ, Thai curries_c) and fresh fruits.
  • '''Yota Vegetarian Restaurant''' ''Th Mahawong 10-30B 7am-3pm'' Thai food
  • '''Fresh Noodles stall'''_ ''90/3 Th Anantaworarittidet'' (between the 7/11 and the Ayudhya bank) ''20-25B _ 5h30pm-10pm'' _ Thai food
  • '''Night Market ''' _ ''Th Pha Kong'' just after the crossroads with Th Anantaworarittidet (towards the Wat Suan Tan) _ ''20-50B _ 5h30pm-2am'' _ Thai food_ Many stalls, among which '''the first one on the right-hand''', heading towards the ''Wat Suan Tan'', good value and still on the right-hand but further on, closer to the ''Wat'', Luang_fs stall, a charming man who speaks French, as the sign : '''"Ici on parle francais"''' shows it.
  • '''Restaurant''' (no roman sign) ''Th Mahayot'' (heading north from the Wat Suan Tan , before the Elephant Crossroads, on the right side of the road, after the Mitsubishi dealer _ ''30-60B _ 11am-2pm'' _ Thai food ( very good ''kai yang'', roasted chicken and ''som tam'', papaya salad)
  • '''Tanaya Kitchen''' ''75/23-24 Th Anantaworarittidet 30-60B 10am-3h30pm 5-8pm'' Thai , Chinese, Vegeterian food _ English menu.
  • '''Jan Paa Lap pet''' ''57 Th Sumonthewarat'' (opposite Ampron GH, before Wat Pranete) ''40-70B 11am-8pm'' Thai food (Isaan)
  • Mid range

  • '''Suan Isan''' ''Th Sumonthewarat'' turn left at the lane next to Rung Thip Sawoei ''30-90B llam-llpm'' Thai food
  • '''Pizza ''' ''Wiangsa-Phrae Road'', 2km from the city, opposite side of Tesco Lotus ''40-120B'' _ Western and Thai food _ English menu
  • ''' Poom 3 (ex Da Dario''' ''Th Anantaworarittidet'' (near Hotel Sukasem) ''50-150B'' Western Thai and Chinese food _ English menu
  • '''DoReMi''' ('''__ Hot Pot Suki Shabu __''' sign in English on the Sumonthewart road) ''Th Sumonthewarat'', inside the '''__ New Nara __''' parking lot, on the right hand Korean BBQ _ ''5pm-10pm'' _ All-you-can-eat Dinner Buffet 69B _ Musical show from 7.30pm on.
  • '''KFC''' ''Wiangsa/Phrae Road'' Tesco Lotus "Mall"_ ''M-F 11:00am-10:00pm / S 10:00am - 9:00pm'' _ ''40-100B'' _ English menu
  • '''Boat Restaurant''' ''21/1 Th Suan Tan _ 11am-10pm'' _ Main dishes 40-120B / Ice-creams 30-130B Western and Thai food and Ice-creams English menu.
  • '''Dhevee Coffee Shop''' inside the '''Dhevaraj Hotel''', ''466 Th Sumonthewarat _ 6am-2am'' Bfast Buffet : 100B Lunch Buffet : 59B _ Western and Thai food _ English menu.
  • Drink

    Sleep

    Budget

  • '''Sabai Dee Guest House''' _ Tel 0 83868 1982 _ ''Th Chao Fa / Soi Aryawung 2'' (close to the bus station) _ Rooms 100/150B (shared bathroom / private bathroom)
  • '''Nan Guest House'''_ Tel 0 5477 1849 ''57/16 Th Mahaphrom''_ Rooms 180/230B (without/with private bathroom) _ Internet 1h : 35B
  • '''Amazing Guest House''' _ Tel 0 5471 0893 23/7 _ ''Th Rat Amnuay '' _ 5 Rooms with sh.bath. 100-120B/160-200B / 5 Bungalows 200/250B
  • '''Ampron Guest House''' _ Tel 0 5477 2291 ''42/4 Th Sumonthewarat '' _ 180B(fan)/280B(aircon)
  • '''P.K. Guest House''' _ Tel 0 5477 1999 33/12 _ ''33/12 Th Premprajarat'' _ 150B(s/fan)/ 250B(d/fan)/350B(aircon) _ Bike/motob rental per day 30/180B
  • Mid range

  • '''Nan Fah Hotel''' Tel 0 5471 0284 438-440 ''Th Sumonthewarat'' 350(double)/600(quadr.)/700(sex.) _ Cable TV _ Bike/motob. rental 50/200
  • '''Grand Mansion Hotel''' Tel 0 5475 0510 5471 1505 ''Th Mahayot'' (heading north, just after the Wat Suan tan) '' 500(VIP) 350(Standard) ''_ TV UBC
  • '''Sukasem Hotel''' 05471 0141 ''Th Anantaworanttidet 210/300B(fan) 320/400(aircon)'' _ TV UBC; (March 2009 update: seriously substandard, especially sanitation, hygienne; not recommended).
  • '''Fahthanin Hotel''' Tel 0 5475 7321-4 ''303/5 Th Anantaworarittidet 450/600B''
  • Splurge

  • '''Dhevaraj Hotel''' Tel 0 5471 0094 Fax 0 5477 1365 inq@dhevarajhotel.com [http://www.dhevarajhotel.com Dhevaraj Hotel ''466 Th Sumonthewarat'' _ Standard : 400-800B / Deluxe :1 200B _ Bike/day 70 (1 speed) 120 (6 speeds) _ Internet ?h : 40B / 1h : 80B _ Swimming Pool [Guests : free / Outsiders:40B (children) & 60B (adults)]
  • '''City Park Hotel''' Tel (054) 741-343-52,Fax (054) 773135 E-mail: booking@thecityparkhotel.com [http://www.thecityparkhotel.com/ City Park Hotel] _ 99 Yantrakitkosol Rd. [Wiangsa-Phrae road],Tambon Dootai, Amphur Muang, Nan 55000 _ 1000/3000B _ Swimming Pool [Guests: free / Outsiders: 50B]
  • Cope

    Banks with ATM

  • '''Bangkok Bank''' (Near Nan Fah Hotel) _ ''Th. Sumonthewarat''
  • '''Kasikorn Thai Bank (KTB)''' (idem) _ ''Th. Sumonthewarat''
  • '''Government Savings Bank''' (Near Dhevaraj Hotel) _ ''478-476 Th. Sumonthewarat''
  • '''Bank of Ayudhya''' _ ''88 Th. Anantaworattidet''
  • '''Siam Commercial Bank (SCB)''' _ ''79/2 Th. Anantaworattidet''
  • '''Krung Thai Bank (KTB)''' _ Sumon Thevarat Rd.''
  • '''Thai Military Bank (TMB)''' _ Sumon Thevarat Rd.''
  • Others

  • '''Tourist Information Centre''' - ''Th. Pha Kong, opposite the Wat Phumin'' _ Hours : 8.00 am - 5.00 pm.
  • '''Fhu Travel Service''' - Tel 0 8471 0636 _ [http://www.fhutravel.com Fhutravel] _ '' 433/4, Th. Sumonthewarat'' _ For two or three days excursions into the mountains and the Hilltribe villages.
  • '''Main Post Office''' - ''Th Mahawong'' _ Hours : M-F 8.30am-4.30pm / S : 9.00am-12.00am
  • '''Internet cafes''' - Many in town (around 20B/hour).
  • '''Police Station''' - ''Th Suriyaphong'' (between the ''Th Sumonthewarat'' and the '' Th Mahayot''), not far from the ''Wat Phumin''.
  • '''Public Hospital''' - ''Th Worawichai'' (near the northernmost bridge, ''Nakorn Nan Pattana'').
  • '''Immigration Office''' - ''117/4, Motorway 1091''. A 15 minute walk from the bus station. Opening time is 08:00. (Directions from bus station: Walk back along the road your bus came in on, 30m past the 24 hour mini-mart, and turn left (the 1st left). Continue straight to the main road at the end (''Rop Meuang'') and turn left again. Follow this curved road until you reach the motorway. Cross the motorway easily at the narrow section here and walk left 200m to the immigration office - a small building fronting directly onto the motorway. [http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=thailand+nan+bus+station&sll=19.077693,100.206299&sspn=0.012228,0.026135&ie=UTF8&t=h&ll=18.77528,100.764241&spn=0.006125,0.013068&z=17&iwloc=A Google Maps]
  • Get out