'''Mazar-e Sharif''' (???? ????), officially called '''Mazari Sharif''' and also '''Mazar-i-Sharif''', '''Mazar-e Sharif''', '''Mazar-e-Sharif''', even '''Mazar Sharif''' or just '''Mazar''' is a city in Afghanistan and the capital of Balkh Province. It has a population of nearly 200,000 people.
Understand
With a population of more than 300,000, Mazar-e Sharif is the 4th largest city in Afghanistan. It was founded in the 12th century after a local mullah dreamt of the secret site where Ali bin Talib, the Prophet's cousin and the fourth caliph of Islam, had been buried (outside of Afghanistan most Muslims believe that Ali is buried in Najaf, Iraq). A shrine, which was later rebuilt as the Blue Mosque, was constructed on the site and the town of Mazar grew around it. The town, however, continued to live in the shadow of its larger neighbor, Balkh, until that city was abandoned due to disease in the mid 19th century. As a result, Mazar assumed the role of capital of the region - a position it has maintained ever since.
Get in
By road
From Kabul can take as little as 5 hours, via the Salang Pass. The road has been improved and is possible with a normal car. Mercedes buses leave Kabul around 4 to 5AM, arriving in Mazar around 1 to 3PM, and cost 400 Afg.
It is also possible from Sheberghan, Kunduz and neighbouring Uzbekistan.
The back road from Herat via Maimana is a very rough 3 day journey in a landcruiser, and is no longer considered safe.
By air
'''Mazar-e Sharif Airport''' ({{IATA|MZR}}) is located 9km east of the city, a journey of 15 minutes by taxi.
[http://www.flykamair.com Kam Air] flies on Sundays and Thursdays to/from Kabul (leaving Kabul at 9AM, returning at 2:30PM) and have ceased direct flights to Herat. The [http://www.flyariana.com/ Ariana] flights between Kabul and Mazar have been suspended due to low demand.
Get around
'''Taxis''' are plentiful and should cost 30 Afg or less around town. Negotiate a price before setting off.
See
'''Shrine of Hazrat Ali''' (the Blue Mosque) marks the burial site of Ali bin Talib, the Prophet Mohammad's cousin and the fourth caliph of Islam. At night the mosque is lit by coloured lights. However, due to many homeless sleeping in the surrounding park, it is not advisable to walk around at this time.
'''Ancient Greek''' relics.
Do
The mosque is open for daily prayers.
Buy
Hand woven Persian rugs
Money
'''Afghanistan International Bank (AIB)''' [http://www.aib.af/] has a branch in Mazari Sharif.
'''Kabul Bank''' [http://www.kabulbank.af/] has a branch in Mazari Sharif.
'''Azizi Bank''' [http://www.azizibank.com/] has a branch in Mazari Sharif.
'''Western Union''' [http://www.westernunion.com/] has several branches in Mazar-e Sharif.
Eat
Between the Farhat Hotel and the Blue Mosque there are food stalls on both sides of the road. Bagels with green vegetables, tomato and french fries are especially good. Fruit shakes, soft drinks and tea are also available. Stalls close around sun set.
'''Kefyat Hotel''' has a large restaurant serving tasty meals
'''Delhi Darbar''' [http://www.delhidarbar.in] ''about 1 km north of the shrine, on a side street opposite the military hospital''. Serves good Indian food, and alcohol is available to non-Afghans. It's known locally as the 'Indian Hotel'.
Drink
Freshly made fruit slushies. Banana shakes with almonds and dates are delicious, and the persimmon version looks equally alluring. Several stands are set up near the Aamo Hotel, as well as other spots around the shrine.
Alcoholic drinks are available at the Indian hotel (Delhi Darbar), for non-Afghans only.
Sleep
Budget
Local hotels offer multi-bed rooms from $10-20 with common bathroom and toilet. Cheaper rooms have worse toilet facilities.
'''Aamo Hotel''' ''on the south side of the shrine'', 050-2478, has okay rooms with 3 or more beds starting at $15 (can be bargained down to $10) with shared toilets and showers.
Mid range
'''Farhat hotel''', Darwaza-ye Balkh, (two blocks west of the shrine). Tel:''+93 70'' 503-177 - rooms from $40USD (negotiate) with attached bathroom and television (CNN, BBC World).
'''Barat hotel''', (east of the shrine). Tel:''+93 70'' 502-235 - a modern hotel with nice rooms and shared bathrooms - from $30USD.
Splurge
Royal Oak. $70 bed and breakfast.
Get out
By plane
'''Kam Air''' [http://www.flykamair.com] flies to Kabul on Thursdays at 2pm and to Herat on Mondays and Thursdays at 11am. All flights costs 2500 Afg ($50 USD). They have an office 1 block north of the shrine on jad-e Maulana Jalaluddin Balkhi, or a travel agent east of the Aamo Hotel books tickets for the same price.
'''Ariana''' [http://www.flyariana.com] also has an office next door to Kam Air, but all of their Mazar flights are currently suspended due to low demand.
Contact
Internet
'''Dunya Internet Cafe''' on the first floor of Aamo Hotel (''on the south side of the shrine''), has a reasonable connection and costs 50 Afg per hour.
Stay safe
Aside from the inherent risks faced by coming to Afghanistan in such a time of turmoil, Mazar remains relatively peaceful and safe for travelers. Bearing in mind that things can change very quickly, avoid walking at night if possible, always remain friendly and upbeat, and keep aware of your surroundings. Treat police with kindness and smiles even if they aren't showing you the same respect - unfriendly passport checks are not unheard of.
Respect
Show respect for the religion, culture and people's customs. Humility is appreciated.