'''Apia''' is the capital of Samoa. It is on Upolu.
Understand
As with most Pacific Island capitals, Apia is a little shabby and run down.
Reasonably small in size and lacking in obvious attractions, it is very useful as an initial stop off point for first time visitors to get their bearings, organise tours and accommodation, and recover from jet lag. The vast majority of Samoa's highlights can be found outside this town.
Get in
By plane
Apia is approximately 20 miles from '''Faleolo Airport'''({{IATA|APW}}). Outside the tiny terminal are the normal stream of taxis (especially when an international flight arrives, as it's not a frequent occurrence) which will normally cost in the region of 30-50 tala for a ride into Apia. Some hotels, such as Aggie Greys, operate shuttle buses for guests. Arrange this in advance, as the scrum of arriving passengers and eager taxi drivers can be confusing when a whole plane load of tourists step outside to the small drop off/pick up point.
By boat
Occasional cargo ships dock at Apia port on their way around the world. A twice monthly ferry sails to Tokelau.
Get around
Much of Apia is within walking distance. Although this may not be a comfortable experience on a hot and humid Samoan Day. Another thing to consider is the congregation of aggressive dogs towards dusk and in the evening. A walk from the suburbs into the centre is best avoided at any time for the above reason. Most households have a dog, and even an innocent walk past their driveway could encourage an attack. Culling prior to the South Pacific Games (Aug 2007) has reduced the numbers in the center of town.
Taxis are cheap, safe and easy to hail down but single women are advised to sit in the back seat, particularly if wearing a short skirt.
See
'''Robert Louis Stevenson museum''' about 5 km south of town in the village of Vailima is definitely worth a visit. This was built by RLS during the final years of his life, which he spent in Apia. It is now a very well kept museum with a good collection of items either originally from the home or equivalents. Catch a taxi up and consider walking back in the late afternoon.
'''Robert Louis Stevenson's grave''' on a crest of Mt. Vaea is best visited in the early morning. As long as there has not been a lot of rain the longer and shallower path up takes about an hour and is an easy walk. The steep path down hill is an option if it has been dry recently. Early morning is a good time to do this walk. Take water and snacks and once you are at the grave, you will have good views to the east and across the Pacific.
Do
A walk along the '''sea wall''' is enjoyable. But only on a milder day (i.e. 25 degrees), and not after dusk because of dogs. Many Apians walk along the sea wall in the late afternoon.
'''The fish market''' is worth a visit at 6AM on Sunday morning. This is when the locals go to buy fish for the special meal of the week, Sunday ''tonai''.
'''The flea market''' nearby the fish market, sells a variety of local handicrafts.
'''Mulinu'u peninsula''' holds parliament house, the law and titles court, the historic observatory, and many important tombs.
'''The new market''' or ''marketi fou'' is a traditional market selling all sorts of local produce as well as some handicrafts. One area sells kava by the cup.
'''Apia Museum''' is on the first floor of the courthouse building in beach road. This small museum is worth a visit on a hot day as it is air conditioned.
'''Palolo deep''' at the eastern end of beach road provides snorkeling gear for hire and the deep itself is a safe and easy way to see abundant reef life as long as there has not been recent heavy rain to silt up the water.
Buy
Both the flea market towards the west of town and the new market further inland are host to many interesting stalls and locally made souvenirs.
Eat
Apia has several quite reasonable places to eat. Beer and soft drinks are available at most places.
There are numerous restaurants that cater for locals on a budget and will sell the sort of food that is eaten in the average household. The menu is likely to include chop suey, chicken curry, and mutton flaps. A lot of Samoan food tends to be rather fatty with lots of sauce. ''Umu'' or earth oven cooked local food include roast pig, and the great delicacy, ''palosami''. ''Palosami'' is made of onions, and coconut cream with possibly chicken or prawns, all wrapped in a new taro leaf and baked. This is a "must try" and goes well with taro, which otherwise is as bland as eating a boiled potato.
The restaurants in the big hotels are the only ones open on Sunday. Aggie's has a ''fia fia'' night on Wednesday where you can see a cultural show including fire dancing (''siva afi'') and eat from a buffet. Make sure you keep both your main course and desert tickets.
Top of list is the '''Bistro Tatau''' which offers fine dining for a fine price.The foods ok but the guys running the place are a bit cold and distant.
'''Tu-I-Moana''' cafe and bistro in Beach Road near the flea market in the new multi-storey building. Good food and a bar with a live band.
The '''Yacht Club''' on Mulinu'u peninsula has a deck overlooking the harbor and serves good "pub food" for $20-40 a meal.
The '''Hotel Millenia''' just down the road is a favourite meeting place for locals for a drink and a bite to eat in the late afternoon.
The '''Seafood Gourmet''' near the wharf has good food for reasonable prices and provides a view over the harbor.
Further down the street is '''Paddles''' offering more sophisticated lunch and dinners with an Italian touch.
The '''Blue Marlin''' in Fagali'i (about 3 km east of Apia) has a great view and reasonable food.
'''Apaula Heights''' has a deck which affords views across the eastern part of Apia and the Pacific. It is a must for a full-moon night. The food is above average standard for Apia and prices range from $30-70 a main course.
Up Cross Island Road and just before Vailima (the RLS museum) are the '''Indian Curry House''' and '''Koko Banana''', with both offering reasonable food and good views. The Curry House is one of the few restaurants without a liquor licence so bring your own beer etc.
If you are wandering around town and absolutely stuck for a place to eat, the most westerly and remote McDonalds in the world can be found in central Apia. More importantly, it is air conditioned and a place to escape the unwavering heat.
Drink
Alcohol can be bought at almost all restaurants. Soft drinks and bottled water are generally available and safe. While the purity of the tap water is questionable, all factory bought ice is safe. It is only later handling that can contaminate it.
'''Kava''' at the market (see above in "Do").
There is a mall (meaning a pedestrian street) in the centre of town with two coffee shops, the '''Sydney Side Cafe''' and '''Cappuccino Vineyard''' both offering a cafe atmosphere and a great place to sit and watch people passing by.
The '''RSA''' is a local club that tends to be a bit rough and ready but is a great way to meet locals and chat.
There is a string of restaurants and bars in the centre of town between the fire station and the Australian High Commission which is a good area to visit in the late afternoon and early evening but is best left before closing time when things can get a bit troublesome.
'''Le Well''' liquor store sells a good range of spirits and wines that are much cheaper than buying them by the glass from your hotel.
Sleep
Aggie Grey's Lagoon, Beach Resort & Spa. 685) 22880. ggiegreys@aggiegreys.ws. 685) 23626. ttp://www1.aggiegreys.com. Aggie Grey's Hotel (not to be confused with Aggie's Resort out near the airport) is the traditional choice and offers the ultimate South Pacific experience.
Hotel Elisa. each Road. 685) 21116. ontact@hotelelisa.ws. 685) 20536. ttp://www.hotelelisa.ws.
Hotel Millenia. 685) 28284. nfo@hotelmilleniasamoa.com. 685) 28285. ttp://www.hotelmilleniasamoa.com. oubles: 210 WST.
Princess Tui Inn. Vaiala Beach Road. 685) 23342. rincesstui@samoa.ws. 685) 22451. ttp://www.princesstui.ws. oubles: US$42/52 (low/high). The Princess Tui Inn is ideal for budget travellers and only 2 minutes by taxi out of town.
Sinalei Reef Resort. 685) 25191 or 1-800-869-5409. inalei@lesamoa.net. 685) 20285. ttp://www.sinalei.ws. pproximately US$240.
Stay Safe
Samoa is generally very safe. Locals who strike up a conversation are unlikely to have sinister motives. However, don't be complacent.
The major risk in Apia is from dogs. Recent culling has improved this situation in the center of town, however it is far from cured. If confronted by a dog or pack of dogs, back away out of their territory. If you have no means of escape, reach down as if you are picking up a rock. Alternatively, carry a pointed object with you such as an umbrella when out walking.
Nearly all of Samoa's nightlife is centered in Apia, and so, like anywhere in the world around closing time, it can get a bit rowdy. Samoans are, on the whole, extremely friendly and despite their size, remarkably relaxed and gentle people. This does not mean you should let your guard down.
The concept on ownership in Polynesia is different. Locals believe in sharing everything, and this does mean that items can be swiped. Do not leave anything of value lying around.
Get out
Take a local bus, tour or car out and around the Island. Take the ferry to Savaii and spend a week or two staying in beach fale's around each island.