'''Lyon''' [http://www.en.lyon-france.com/], also written '''Lyons''' in English, is the second largest city in France. It is the capital of the Rhone-Alpes region and the Rhone ''departement'' and located some 450 km south of Paris. Lyon is known as a gastronomic and historical city with a vibrant cultural scene.
Understand
Founded by the Romans, with many preserved historical areas, Lyon is the archetype of the heritage city, as recognised by UNESCO. Long seen as a dreary, grey city, partly because of urban planning errors such as building motorways right through the city centre, Lyon is now a vibrant metropolis which starts to make the most out of its unique architectural, cultural and gastronomic heritage, its dynamic demographics and economy and its strategic location between Northern and Southern Europe. It is more and more open to the world, with an increasing number of students and international events.
The city itself has about 470,000 inhabitants. However, the direct influence of the city extends well over its administrative borders. The figure which should be compared to the population of other major metropolises is the population of Greater Lyon (which includes 57 towns or ''communes''): about 1,200,000. Lyon and its metropolitan area are rapidly growing and getting younger, because of their economic attractivity.
Districts
Lyon is shaped by its two rivers, the Rhone (to the East) and the Saone (to the West), which both run North-South. The main areas of interest are:
Among the other districts:
'''The left bank of the Rhone''' is a more residential area (neighbourhoods of Brotteaux, Guillotiere, Montchat, Monplaisir, etc.), with the notable exceptions of the business area of Part-Dieu and industrial zones in the south. The main attraction is Tete d'Or park.
'''Vaise and St Rambert''', to the northwest, are two rapidly developing areas, both for residency and high-tech industries.
Fourviere, Vieux Lyon, Croix-Rousse and a large part of Presqu'ile are classified as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Lyon has nine administrative subdivisions called ''arrondissements'', which are designated by numbers. They correspond approximately to the following neighbourhoods:
1st ''arrondissement'' (centre): North of Presqu'ile and slopes of the Croix-Rousse hill; home of the ''canuts'' (silk workers), and still a 'rebel' neighbourhood.
2nd ''arrondissement'' (centre): Most of Presqu'ile; basically, this is where the action is.
3rd ''arrondissement'' (East): Part-Dieu, North of Guillotiere, Montchat, North of Monplaisir; the most populated ''arrondissement'' with wealthy and popular neighbourhoods, former industrial or military sites and a modern business district.
4th ''arrondissement'' (North): Plateau of the Croix-Rousse hill; historical area with a "village" mood.
5th ''arrondissement'' (West): Vieux Lyon, Fourviere, Saint-Just, Point du Jour; historical sites and quiet residential neighbourhoods.
6th ''arrondissement'' (Northeast): Brotteaux; the wealthiest part of the city.
7th ''arrondissement'' (South): South of Guillotiere, Gerland; from popular neighbourhoods to high-tech industrial zones.
8th ''arrondissement'' (Southeast): South of Monplaisir, Etats-Unis, industrial and popular neighbourhoods built mainly in the 1920s-1930s.
9th ''arrondissement'' (Northwest): Vaise, La Duchere, St Rambert; some of the areas which have evolved the most in recent years.
Zip codes for Lyon begin with 69 for the Rhone ''departement'' and end with the number of the ''arrondissement'': 69004 is therefore the zip code for the 4th ''arrondissement''. Special zip codes may be used for businesses.
History
All periods of Lyon's 2000-year history have left visible traces in the city's architectural and cultural heritage, from Roman ruins to Renaissance palaces to contemporary skyscrapers. Very few cities in the world boast such diversity in their urban structure and architecture.
Early traces of settlement date back to 12,000 BC but there is no evidence of continuous occupation prior to the Roman era. Lugdunum, the Roman name of the city, was officially '''founded in 43 BC''' by Lucius Munatius Plancus, then Governor of Gaul. The first Roman settlements were on Fourviere hill, and the first inhabitants were probably veterans of Caesar's war campaigns. The development of the city was boosted by its strategic location and it was promoted '''Capital of Gauls''' in 27 BC by General Agrippa, emperor Augustus's son-in-law and minister. Large carriageways were then built, providing easy access from all parts of Gaul. Lugdunum became one of the most prominent administrative, economic and financial centres in Gaul, along with Narbonne. The main period of peace and prosperity of the Roman city was between 69 and 192 AD. The population at that time is estimated between 50,000 and 80,000. Lugdunum consisted of four populated areas: the top of Fourviere hill, the slopes of Croix-Rousse around the Amphitheatre des Trois Gaules, the ''Canabae'' (around where Place Bellecour is today) and the right bank of the Saone river, mainly in what is today St Georges neighbourhood.
Lugdunum was the place where the '''first Christian communities''' of Gaul appeared. It was also where the first martyrdoms took place, most notably in 177 AD when the young slave Blandine was killed in the Amphitheatre des Trois Gaules, along with 47 other martyrs.
The city lost its status of Capital of Gauls in 297 AD. Then, in the early years of the 4th century, the aqueducts which brought water to the top of Fourviere suddenly stopped functioning. This was due to a lack of funds for their maintenance and security; the lead pipes which carried the water were stolen and could not be replaced. The city was completely deprived of water overnight. This triggered the end of the Roman Lugdunum, which lost a large part of its population and was reorganised around the Saone.
In the '''Middle Ages''', the city developed on both banks of the Saone. The name "Lion" or "Lyon" appeared in the 13th century. The early Middle Ages were very troubled politically. Since the political geography of France kept changing, the city belonged successively to multiple provinces. It then belonged to the Holy Roman Empire from 1018 to 1312, when it was given to France at the Vienna Council. At that time, the city was still of limited size but had a large religious influence; in 1078, Pope Gregory VII made the Archbishop of Lyon the highest Catholic dignitary in the former Gaul (''Primat des Gaules'').
In the '''Renaissance''', fiscal advantages and the organisation of numerous trade fairs attracted bankers from Florence and merchants from all over Europe; the city became more and more prosperous and experienced a second golden age. The main industries were silk weaving, introduced in 1536, and printing. Lyon became one of Europe's largest cities and its first financial place, helped by the advantages given by King Francois I who even considered, at one time, making Lyon the capital of France. Around 1530, the population of Lyon reached 50,000.
In the following centuries, Lyon was hurt by the religious wars but remained a major industrial and intellectual centre, while the financial activity moved to Geneva and Switzerland. In the 18th century, half of the inhabitants were silk workers (''canuts'').
The eastern bank of the Rhone was not urbanised before the 18th century, when the swamps (called Brotteaux) were dried out to allow construction. Those massive works were led by engineer Morand. In the meantime, works conducted by Perrache doubled the area of the Presqu'ile. The extension works were halted by the French revolution but started again in the early 19th century.
During the Revolution, in 1793, Lyon took sides against the central power of the ''Convention'' (Parliament), which caused a severe repression from the army. Over 2,000 people were executed.
In the early '''19th century''', the silk industry was still developing, notably thanks to Jacquard's loom which made the weaving work more efficient. Social crises, however, occurred: in 1831, the first revolt of the ''canuts'' was harshly repressed. The workers were protesting against the introduction of new technology, which was likely to cause unemployment. Other riots took place in 1834, 1848 and 1849, especially in the Croix-Rousse neighbourhood. From 1848, the Presqu'ile area was redesigned in a way similar to Haussmann's works in Paris. In 1852, the neighbouring towns of Vaise, Croix-Rousse and Guillotiere were made districts of Lyon. The traditional silk industry disappeared at the end of the century because of diseases affecting the French silk worms and the opening of the Suez Canal which reduced the price of imported silk from Asia.
'''Edouard Herriot''' was elected mayor in 1905 and governed the city until his death in 1957. He initiated a number of important urban projects, most notably in partnership with his favourite architect Tony Garnier: Grange Blanche hospital (today named after Herriot), Gerland slaughterhouses (now Halle Tony Garnier) and stadium, the Etats-Unis neighbourhood, etc.
During '''World War II''', Lyon was close to the border between the "free zone" and the occupied zone and was therefore a key strategic place for the Germans and the French Resistance alike. Jean Moulin, head of the Resistance, was arrested in Caluire (North suburb of Lyon). On May 26, 1944, Lyon was bombed by the Allied aviation. The Liberation of Lyon occurred on September 3.
In the 1960s, the construction of the business district of Part-Dieu began; its symbol is the "pencil" tower, the tallest building in Lyon. Meanwhile, the association "Renaissance du Vieux Lyon" (Rebirth of the Old Lyon) managed to have this Renaissance area classified by the government as the first preserved landmark in France, while it was threatened by a highway project defended by mayor Louis Pradel. Pradel was a convinced "modernist" and supporter of the automobile. He also backed the construction of the Fourviere tunnel, opened in 1971 and of the A6/A7 freeway through Presqu'ile, near Perrache station, a decision later described as "the screw-up of the century" by mayor Michel Noir, in the 1990s. In 1974, the first line of the metro was opened. In 1981, Lyon was linked to Paris by the first TGV (high speed train) line. In the 1980s and 1990s, a huge number of buildings in Vieux Lyon and Croix-Rousse were renovated. The landscape of Lyon is still evolving, notably with the new Rhone banks promenade or the construction of new skyscrapers in Part-Dieu.
In the future, the banks of the Saone should also be given a second youth. The completion of the Lyon beltway on the western side should relieve the central areas from some of the traffic. A high-performance train network serving exurban areas (like the RER around Paris) is also planned.
Politics
A city of merchants and industry, Lyon has a long tradition of centre-right governments and mayors, even if some neighbourhoods, most notably Croix-Rousse, have a very strong left-wing inclination. In 2001, however, Gerard Collomb, a member of the moderate left-wing Socialist party, was elected mayor. He completed several successful projects such as the Velo'v shared bike system or the Rhone banks promenade; many of these had actually been initiated by previous city governments. He was re-elected triumphantly in 2008; his main right-wing opponent was Dominique Perben, whose campaign was quite bad.
Economy
The silk industry was the main activity for centuries. Since the end of the 19th century, it has been successfully replaced by a number of others. Feyzin, a southern suburb, is home to a major oil refinery and a large number of chemical plants are also located along the Rhone river south of Lyon. Pharmaceutics and biotechnology are also important; they was historically fueled by Lyon's prominence in medical research, and the local authorities are trying to maintain an international leadership in these industries. The southeastern suburbs of Venissieux and St Priest host large automotive plants, such as Renault's truck and bus factories. But as in most Western metropolises, the service industry is now dominant. Many large banking and insurance companies have important offices in Lyon, and the IT services industry is also well developed. From an economic point of view, Lyon is the most attractive and dynamic city in France. This may be explained by the easy access from all over Europe (probably second only to Paris in the country), the availability of qualified workforce and research centres, and cheaper real estate prices compared to the capital.
Climate
Lyon has a "semi-continental" climate. Winters are cold but temperatures under -5__C remain rare. You can, however, experience an awful freezing sensation when northerly winds blow. Snowfalls happen but snow-covered streets are quite exceptional. Summers can be hot; temperatures around 35__C are not exceptional in July and August. Precipitations are moderate and happen throughout the year; the mountains to the west (Massif central) protect the area against perturbations from the Atlantic. During the summer, especially in August, precipitations often take the form of thunderstorms whereas in winter, lighter but more continuous rain is more common. Spring and early autumn are usually enjoyable.
Events
The '''Festival of Lights''' (''Fete des Lumieres'') [http://www.lumieres.lyon.fr/lumieres/sections/en] is by far the most important event of the year. It lasts four days around the 8th of December. It was initially a traditional religious celebration: on December 8th, 1852, the people of Lyon spontaneously illuminated their windows with candles to celebrate the inauguration of the golden statue of the Virgin Mary (the Virgin had been the saint patron of Lyon since she allegedly saved the city from the plague in 1643). The same ritual was then repeated every year.<br>In the last decade or so, the celebration turned into an international event, with light shows by professional artists from all over the world. Those range from tiny installations in remote neighbourhoods to massive sound-and-light shows, the largest one traditionally taking place on Place des Terreaux. The traditional celebration lives on, though: during the weeks preceding December 8th, the traditional candles and glasses are sold by shops all over town. This festival attracts around 4 million visitors every year; it now compares, in terms of attendance, to the Oktoberfest in Munich for example. Needless to say, accommodation for this period should be booked months in advance. You will also need good shoes (to avoid the crowd in the metro) and very warm clothes (it can be very cold at this time of year).
The '''Nuits de Fourviere''' festival [http://www.nuitsdefourviere.fr/]: From June to early August, the Roman theatres host various shows such as concerts (popular music, jazz, classical), dancing, theatre and cinema. International artists who usually fill up much larger venues are often seduced by the special atmosphere of the theatres.
'''Nuits sonores''' [http://www.nuits-sonores.com/]: an increasingly popular festival dedicated to electronic music, every year in May.
The '''Biennals''' [http://www.biennale-de-lyon.org/]: Lyon alternatively hosts a dancing (even years) and a contemporary art (odd years) biennals from September to December/January. The dancing biennal is traditionally opened by a street parade in which inhabitants of the Greater Lyon take part through neighbourhood associations. If you are in town at this moment, do not miss this colourful and funny event.
Language
The language of the city is French. The local dialect (''patois'', basically French with a number of typical local words or expressions) has practically disappeared since one out of two inhabitants were born outside the Rhone ''departement''.
Hotels, tourist attractions and restaurants in popular areas generally have staff capable of working in English. You could, however, experience difficulties in more remote areas. The transportation system also has little information written in English. On the street, many people (especially young people) speak at least basic English, but they will appreciate a little effort in French. Using basic words like ''bonjour'' (hello), ''s'il vous plait'' (please), ''merci'' (thank you) or ''excusez-moi'' (excuse me) will certainly make people even more friendly and willing to help you.
Smoking
As everywhere in France, smoking is prohibited in all closed public places, including bars, restaurants and night clubs.
Tourist information
Tourist office. lace Bellecour, 69002 Lyon. : Bellecour. 4 72 77 69 69. ttp://www.en.lyon-france.com/. on-Sun 9AM-6PM, open 9AM-8PM during the Festival of Lights. The office is in the southeast corner of Place Bellecour.
Get in
By plane
Lyon's Saint-Exupery Airport [http://www.lyon.aeroport.fr/] (old name: Satolas, IATA code: LYS), some 25 km east of Lyon, is a rapidly developing airport. It still hosts few intercontinental flights (the Lyon-New York service was reopened in 2008 though), but can easily be reached via a European hub (Paris, London, Frankfurt...). Air France serves most airports in France and major European airports. EasyJet serves a number of destinations in Europe, including London and Berlin, along with a few domestic destinations which are not easily reached by train (Bordeaux, Toulouse). Most other major European airlines also operate flights between Lyon and their respective hubs.
The connection between the city and the airport is definitely to be improved, which should be achieved by the construction of a tram line due to open in August 2010. Until then, there is only a bus service called Satobus [http://www.satobus.com/]. It will take you from the airport to central Lyon in 30-50 minutes and costs ?8.60 (?6.50 if you are under 24). Buses depart every 20 minutes outside Terminal 1. If returning, save yourself time and money by asking for a return at the Satobus desk in the airport (buy before you board). A tip: if you are going somewhere around the metro line D, is will probably be faster to get off the bus at Mermoz-Pinel (first stop) than to go all the way to Part-Dieu or Perrache. When going to the airport, allow extra time because the service is frequently delayed by traffic jams. Taxis to Lyon from the airport cost around ?75.
Grenoble airport is actually about midway between Lyon and Grenoble and is served by some low-cost airlines. There are bus services to Lyon from there [http://www.agbus.fr].
Another possibility is to fly to Geneva, which can save money by using low-cost airlines. Then Lyon can be reached by train, but it takes about two hours.
By train
From the rest of France, train is generally the most convenient way to reach the city, except for some regions, the Southwest for example. Lyon has three main train stations serving national and regional destinations:
'''Perrache''' (''M/T: Perrache'') is the historical station. It is just a short walk away from Place Bellecour and generally more handy if you are staying in the city centre.
'''Part-Dieu station''' (''M/T: Part-Dieu'') was opened with the first TGV line in 1981. It is in the heart of Lyon's main business district.
'''Saint-Exupery''' (the station is outside the city and serves the airport).
There are also three smaller stations serving suburban and regional destinations: '''St Paul''' (''B: C3-Gare St Paul''), '''Vaise''' (''M: Gare de Vaise'') and '''Gorge de Loup''' (''M: Gorge de Loup'').
Lyon is linked by TGV (fast trains) to Paris (two hours) and Marseille (1 hr 45 min). Many other domestic destinations are served directly, and there are several direct services to Brussels every day (4 hours). TGVs to and from Paris serve both Perrache and Part-Dieu stations; other TGVs generally serve only Part-Dieu.
Coming to Lyon from London by Eurostar may be interesting given the bad quality of the city-airport link. It is highly preferrable to change trains in Lille rather than Paris, for the connection is much faster and easier.
For schedules, fares and bookings, see the SNCF website [http://www.voyages-sncf.com].
By bus
International bus services are operated by Eurolines to and from Perrache station [http://www.eurolines.com].
By car
Lyon is a major automotive hub for central and southern France:
A6 to the north ? Paris.
A7 to the south ? Marseille, Nice, Spain, Italy.
A43 to the east ? Grenoble, the Alps, Northern Italy.
A47 to the west ? Saint-Etienne, Clermont-Ferrand, Massif Central, west of France.
A42 to the northeast ? Bourg-en-Bresse, Geneva (Switzerland), Germany.
Get around
On foot
The city centre is not so big and most attractions can be reached from each other on foot. The walk from Place des Terreaux to Place Bellecour, for example, is about 20 minutes. The rule of thumb is that metro stations are generally about 10 minutes walk apart.
Be careful when crossing major axes: traffic is dense and running red lights is a very popular sport.
By public transport
Lyon's public transportation system, known as TCL [http://www.tcl.fr/], is regarded as one of the most efficient in the country. Central areas are very well served; so are the campuses and eastern suburbs, where many jobs are concentrated. The western suburbs are more residential and can be difficult to reach. As everywhere in France, the network can be perturbed by strikes from time to time.
There are four metro (subway) lines (A to D). The first line of the network was line... C in 1974 (lines A and B were already planned but line C took less time to complete because it used an existing funicular tunnel). Line A opened in 1978. Trains generally run every 2 to 10 minutes, depending on the line and the time. Line D, the busiest of the four lines, is entirely automated; this allows good frequency in off-peak hours, especially at night and on Sundays. The metro is generally reliable, clean and comfortable. Besides the classical metro, two funiculars run from Vieux Lyon metro station to Saint-Just and Fourviere respectively.
There are also four tram lines (T1 to T4 - this last one opens in April 2009). They are not very interesting if you stay within the city centre; they are most useful to reach campuses and suburban areas.
With more than 100 bus lines, you should be able to go virtually anywhere reasonably far away from the centre. Some of them use trolley (electric) buses; Lyon is one of the few cities in France which still use this system. There are two special bus lines: C1 and C3, where you will find big articulated trolley buses which run very frequently. These are sometimes referred to as ''Cristalis'' (actually the brand name of the vehicles) but people do not really use, or even know about this name.
Metros and trams run approximately from 5AM to midnight. Some bus lines do not run after 9PM. Check the TCL website for details.
Maps can be found online:
Simple map: [http://www.tcl.fr/documents/pdf/metro_tram.pdf]
Detailed map: [http://www.tcl.fr/documents/pdf/lyon_villeurbanne.pdf]. You can ask for a copy of this one in the main metro stations.
The prices are: ?1.60 for a single journey (valid for 1 hour after the first use on buses, trams, metro and funiculars, unlimited number of transfers, no return), ?4.40 for a daily pass. Group tickets are available from the tourist office.
By bicyle
Lyon has an increasing number of safe cycling routes. Problematic points remain, especially when it comes to crossing major roads. Also keep in mind that there are two hills with steep slopes! A map of cycling routes is available online: [http://www.grandlyon.com/fileadmin/user_upload/Pdf/activites/deplacements/pistescyclables_lyon2006.pdf].
Since May 2005, Lyon has also had a public bicycle service called Velo'v [http://www.velov.grandlyon.com/Index.1.0.html?&L=1] which allows travellers, after registering a credit card, to pick up, and drop cycles to and from over 300 points around the city. You need a credit card (Visa/MC/French CB) to make use of the service. It is very cheap:
'''1-day ticket:''' ?1, then free for the first 30 minutes of each ride, ?1 for 30 to 60 minutes, then ?2 every 30 minutes.
'''7-day ticket:''' ?3, then same fares as the 1-day ticket.
30 minutes is generally more than enough is you stay close to the city centre.
If you have taken a bike and realize that it has a problem (broken chains, warped wheels, flat tires or even missing pedals are commonplace), just put it back into its place and repeat the procedure to take another one. Recent improvements to the system have made this operation fast and easy.
Note that the system only works with a European credit/debit card. Otherwise the transaction is aborted, no explanations given on the terminal. It is supposed to accept all cards with a chip, but those with foreign cards could experience difficulties. The terminals have very limited English and that makes it a rough start, but once you get to know the system, it is a great way to move around the city. There are so many bikes that it can sometimes be a problem to return them.
By car
Traffic is dense, parking is either very difficult or quite expensive, and there are quite few directional signs. Avoid driving within the city if you can. For the city center, look for signs reading "Presqu'ile". In the Presqu'ile and other central neighbourhoods, it is strongly advised not to park in 'prohibited parking' areas; you could be towed. Tickets for unpaid parking are also commonplace; a specific brigade of the city police is in charge of checking parking payments in the city centre. The penalty for unpaid parking is ?11 (you might get several tickets in the same day in central neighbourhoods); the penalty for parking in a prohibited area is ?35. If you park in a dangerous place (e.g., you block an emergency exit), the penalty can be up to ?90.
The minimum age to rent a car is 21 and an additional charge may be required for drivers under 25 years old. Major rental companies have offices at Part-Dieu and Perrache railway stations, and at the airport. Best to hire from Part-Dieu, as the subsequent navigation is much easier.
Taxis
Taxis are quite pricey. The fares are fixed by the authorities: ?2 when you board, then per km: ?1.34 (daytime, 7AM-7PM) or ?2.02 (night, Sundays, holidays). The driver may charge a minimum of ?6 for any trip. There are also a number of possible extra charges: ?1.41 for the 4th passenger, ?0.91 per animal or large piece of luggage, ?1.41 for a pickup at a train station or airport.
Taxis cannot be hailed on the street; you need to go to a taxi station or to call for one. The major taxi companies are:
Allo Taxi. 4 78 28 23 23?.
Taxi-Radio. 4 72 10 86 86?.
Cabtaxi. 4 78 750 750.
See
Lyon may not have world-famous monuments such as the Eiffel tower or the Statue of Liberty, but it offers very diverse neighbourhoods which are interesting to walk around and hide architectural marvels. As time goes by, the city also becomes more and more welcoming for pedestrians and cyclists. So a good way to explore it may be to get lost somewhere and enjoy what comes up, and not to always follow the guide...
A good point for visitors is that most attractions will not cost you a cent: churches, ''traboules'', parks, etc. For those intending to visit several museums (which are almost the only attractions you cannot see for free), the '''Lyon City Card''' may be interesting. Available from the Tourist office, it costs ?18 for one day, ?27 for 2 days and ?36 for 3 days. It includes unlimited rides on the public transport network, free or reduced entry fee to major museums and exhibitions and one guided tour per day per person (Vieux Lyon, Croix-Rousse, etc.). The price is still a bit high, so count before you buy to see if this is a good deal considering your plans.
Do not hesitate to buy a detailed map with a street index from a book shop or a newsagent; many places of interest or good restaurants are located in small streets you will not find on simplified maps, such as the ones you can get from the Tourist office.
Whatever the time of year (except for the ''Fete des Lumieres''), tourists are not very numerous yet, but they concentrate in a few small areas, especially Fourviere and Vieux Lyon, where the pedestrian streets are just as crowded as the Champs-Elysees sidewalks on sunny weekends.
Highlights
'''The classics:'''
The view from Fourviere basilica.
Streets and traboules in Vieux Lyon.
Traboules in Croix-Rousse.
Parc de la Tete d'Or.
The astronomical clock in St Jean cathedral.
'''Off the beaten path:'''
Musee urbain Tony Garnier and Etats-Unis neighbourhood.
St Irenee church, Montee du Gourguillon, St Georges neighbourhood.
A drink on Place Sathonay.
St Bruno church.
Parc de Gerland.
Vieux Lyon
After Venice, the '''Old Lyon''', a narrow strip along the right bank of the Saone, is the largest Renaissance area in Europe. Its current organization, with narrow streets mainly parallel to the river Saone, dates back to the Middle Ages. The buildings were erected between the 15th and the 17th centuries, notably by wealthy Italian, Flemish and German merchants who settled in Lyon where 4 fairs were held each year. At that time, the buildings of Lyon were said to be the highest in Europe. The area was entirely refurbished in the 1980s and 1990s. It now offers the visitor colorful, narrow cobblestoned streets; there are some interesting craftmen's shops but also many tourist traps!
It is divided into three parts which are named after their respective churches:
'''St Paul''', north of Place du Change, was the commercial area during the Renaissance;
'''St Jean''', between Place du Change and St Jean cathedral, was home to most wealthy families: aristocrats, public officers, etc;
'''St Georges''', south of St Jean, was a craftsmen's district.
The area is generally crowded in the afternoon, especially at weekends. To really enjoy its architectural beauties, the best time is therefore the morning. Around lunchtime, the streets somewhat disappear behind restaurant terraces, postcard racks and the crowd of tourists.
Guided tours in several languages, including English, are available from the tourist office (?9, [http://www.en.lyon-france.com/page/p-1074/art_id-/]).
St Jean Cathedral. lace St Jean, 69005 Lyon. : Vieux Lyon. on-Fri 8:15AM-12PM/1:45PM-7:30PM, Sat-Sun 8:15AM-12PM/1:45PM-7PM; services (no visits) Mon-Fri 9AM and 7PM, Sat 9AM, Sun 8:30AM and 10:30AM (high mass). ree admission, appropriate dress required. Officially, the cathedral is dedicated to both St John the Baptist (''St Jean-Baptiste'') and St Stephen (''St Etienne'') and has the title of ''primatiale'' because the Bishop of Lyon has the honorary title of ''Primat des Gaules''. Built between 1180 and 1480, it is mostly of Gothic style with Romanesque elements; the oldest parts are the chancel and the lateral chapels, and as one goes towards the facade, the style becomes more and more Gothic. The cathedral hosts an spectacular astronomical clock originally built in the 14th century but modified later. It is especially worth seeing when the bells ring, every day at 12PM, 2PM, 3PM and 4PM. Over the main door, the rose window, known as the "Lamb rose window", is an admirable work of art depicting the life of St Stephen and St John the Baptist.
St Jean archaeological garden. ue de la Bombarde/Rue Mandelot/Rue des Estrees, 69005 Lyon. : Vieux Lyon. ree. Next to St Jean cathedral (on the northern side), this small garden shows the remains of the religious buildings which occupied the site before the cathedral was erected. The oldest remains date back to the 4th century (baptistery of the former St Etienne church).
Traboules. 9005 Lyon. : Vieux Lyon. losed at night. ree. The ''traboules'' are a typical architectural feature of Lyon's historical buildings. They are corridors which link two streets through a building, and usually a courtyard. Their origin is not very clear. In the early 4th century, the Roman aqueducts were ruined and the inhabitants had to move closer to the Saone; the first ''traboules'' may have been built to carry water from wells or from the river. Later, they were used to move pieces of fabric (silk) from workshop to workshop. They were very useful to the Resistance members under the German occupation: the Germans did not know them well and one person could enter a ''traboule'' from either side in order to exchange information, weapons, etc. Many ''traboules'' are unique architectural masterpieces, largely influenced by Italy and especially Florence.<br>Some of them are officially open to the public. They link the following addresses:<br>- 54 rue St Jean <> 27 rue du Boeuf (the longest in Lyon)<br>- 27 rue St Jean <> 56 rue des Trois Maries<br>- 2 place du Gouvernement <> quai Romain Rolland.<br>To open the doors, just press the service button next to the door code keyboard. In the morning, many other doors are open for service (mail, garbage collecting), so more ''traboules'' are accessible. Just push buttons and see what is behind the doors! There are ''traboules'' in almost all buildings between Quai Romain Rolland and Rue St Jean/Rue des Trois Maries, and others between Rue St Jean and Rue du Boeuf.{{disclaimerbox|'''The buildings are inhabited.''' As everybody, people who live there like to sleep on Sunday mornings, or may work at night, or simply prefer not being disturbed, so '''please be as quiet as possible''', regardless of whether you are in an 'officially open' or in a 'normally closed' ''traboule''. It is best to whisper when talking because the small courtyards amplify the sound of voices, and even normal conversation can be quite disturbing for the inhabitants.}}
Renaissance courtyards. 9005 Lyon. : Vieux Lyon. losed at night. ree. Besides the buildings cited above, some have very beautiful courtyards but no real ''traboules'' (that is to say, no crossing from one street to another). The most outstanding are: Maison du Chamarier (37 rue St Jean) and Maison du Crible (16 rue du Boeuf), in which stands the famous "Pink Tower".
Rue St Jean. 9005 Lyon. : Vieux Lyon. This cobblestoned pedestrian street is the main axis of the area. It is full of souvenir shops and restaurants mainly intended for tourists. Local people are aware that real good ''bouchons'' are extremely rare here! On a sunny Sunday afternoon, it may be hard to walk because of the crowd of both locals and tourists. You can also check out the more quiet '''Rue des Trois Maries''' which runs parallel to Rue St Jean, between Place de la Baleine and Rue du Palais de Justice.
Rue du Boeuf. 9005. : Vieux Lyon. Parallel to Rue St Jean, this street is much more quiet and just as beautiful. It also has a number of restaurants, more expensive than in Rue St Jean but, on average, much more worth the money.
Place du Change. 9005 Lyon. : C3-Gare St Paul. The largest square in the area has two remarkable buildings. The '''Loge du Change''', on the west side, was partially built by the great architect Soufflot. It was originally home to bankers and merchants. It was given to the Reformed church in the 19th century and is now a Protestant church known as ''Temple du Change''. It can be visited on Saturdays. Religious services on Sundays, 10:30AM. Opposite is the '''Maison Thomassin''', with its Gothic-style 14th-century facade. The Thomassins were a powerful merchant family in the Renaissance. Above the 2nd floor windows are the arms of the King of France, of the Dauphin (heir of the Kingdom) and of Duchess Anne of Brittany. Unfortunately, the courtyard is closed to the public.
Rue Juiverie. 9005 Lyon. : C3-Gare St Paul. Another typical street of Vieux Lyon. It is named after the Jews who originally settled there but were expelled in the 14th century. Check out the back courtyard at Hotel Builloud (number 8); it has a magnificent gallery on the first floor, designed by Philibert Delorme who was one of the most prominent local architects during the Renaissance.
St Paul church. ue St Paul, 69005 Lyon. : C3-Gare St Paul. A very nice church, with mixed Romanesque and Gothic styles. The oldest parts are from the 10th century.
St Georges neighbourhood. ue St Georges, rue du Doyenne and other smaller streets, 69005 Lyon. : Vieux Lyon. St Georges is the name given to the south part of the Vieux Lyon. It is very picturesque, with nice Renaissance buildings which, however, do not really compare to the palaces of St Jean; on the other hand, it is much more quiet than the St Jean area.
Montee du Gourguillon. 9005 Lyon. : Vieux Lyon/F: Minimes. This picturesque ''montee'' (sloping street on hillside) starts behind Vieux Lyon metro station and ends quite close to the Roman theatres of Fourviere. It was the main link between the river Saone and the top of Fourviere throughout the Roman era, Middle Ages and Renaissance. Nowadays it keeps a medieval spirit. Around numbers 5-7 is '''Impasse Turquet''', a small cul-de-sac named after Etienne Turquet, an Italian who is said to have founded the silk industry in Lyon in 1536. In this small passageway are the oldest houses of the city, dating back to the 13th or 14th century, with wooden balconies.
Palais de Justice. uai Romain Rolland, 69005 Lyon. : Vieux Lyon. The historical court house, also named "the 24 columns", was built between 1835 and 1842 by architect Louis-Pierre Baltard. It is a fine example of French "neo-classical" architecture. It now hosts only the criminal court (''Cour d'Assises'') and the court of appeal. The other jurisdictions moved to a new building in Part-Dieu in 1995. The most famous trial held there was that of the former head of the Lyon Gestapo, Klaus Barbie, in 1987. The building is currently undergoing major refurbishment works.
Fourviere, Saint-Just
Take the funicular up the hill from Vieux Lyon metro station, or if you are fit, walk up Montee des Chazeaux (starts at the southern end of Rue du Boeuf), Montee St Barthelemy (from St Paul station) or Montee du Gourguillon (from the northern end of Rue St Georges, behind Vieux Lyon metro station). This is a 150-meter vertical ascent approximately.
Fourviere basilica. lace de Fourviere, 69005 Lyon. : Fourviere. 4 78 25 86 19. ttp://www.fourviere.org/. 0AM-5PM. ree admission. Built in 1872 and dedicated to the Virgin Mary, saint patron of Lyon, this massive church made of white marble has been compared to an elephant with its feet up. It is a typical example of the 19th-century "eclectic" style, with architectural elements recalling antique, classical and Gothic eras. The Byzantine-style interior decoration is extremely exuberant, too much so for some people.
Panoramic viewpoint. lace de Fourviere, 69005 Lyon. : Fourviere. Next to the basilica is the panoramic viewpoint, with the best view over the city. If the weather is clear, the Mont Blanc can be seen in the distance. This is a very good point to start your visit of the city because you can really see its general layout.
To go down from there, you can take Rue du Cardinal Decourtray, then Rue Cleberg and Rue de l'Antiquaille which lead to the Roman theatres, or walk down through the '''Jardins du Rosaire''', a nice garden; then stairways lead to Rue du Boeuf in Vieux Lyon. Of course, you can also take the funicular.
Metal tower. : Fourviere. Next to the basilica stands a smaller (86 m) replica of the Eiffel tower, completed in 1894. Its construction was supported by anticlerical people in order to have a non-religious building as the highest point in Lyon, which it actually is with an altitude of 372 m at the top. It now serves as a radio and TV antenna and is closed to the public.
Roman theatres. ree. These two well-preserved theatres are the most important remnant of the Roman city of Lugdunum. The Gallo-Roman museum was built next to them. The summer festival "Nuits de Fourviere" takes place here every year.
'''Saint-Just''' neighbourhood, south-west of the Roman theatres, has less famous but also interesting historical sites.
St Irenee church. 1 rue des Macchabees, 69005 Lyon. : St Just. 4 78 25 43 26. ttp://www.lyon-st-irenee.org/. hurch Mon-Sun 8:30AM-6PM, crypt Sat 2:30PM-5PM, closed in August. ree. The oldest church in Lyon, and one of the oldest in France. The site is built on a Gallo-Roman necropolis which was in use for centuries, until the Middle Ages. Some sarcophaguses from the 5th or 6th century are visible in the courtyard. The crypt dates back to the 9th century and was renovated in the 19th century. Early Christian remains (from the 4th to 6th centuries) are kept inside. The church was rebuilt in the 19th century in a neo-classical style with a Byzantine influence. An arch from the 5th century remains. Behind the church, the calvary built in 1687 is also a great viewpoint.
Croix-Rousse
The area, especially the traboules, may be worth taking a guided tour (available from the tourist office).
Croix-Rousse is known as the "working hill" but for centuries, it had been as much of a "praying hill" as Fourviere. On the slopes was the Roman Federal Sanctuary of the Three Gauls, which comprised the amphitheatre (built in 19) and an altar (built in 12 BC). This sanctuary was abandoned at the end of the 2nd century. In the Middle Ages, the hill, then called Montagne St Sebastien, was not part of the free town of Lyon but of the Franc-Lyonnais province, which was independent and protected by the King. The slopes were then dedicated to agriculture, mostly vineyards. In 1512, a fortified wall was built at the top of the hill, approximately where Boulevard de la Croix-Rousse is today. The ''pentes'' (slopes) and the plateau were therefore separated. The slopes became then part of Lyon while the plateau was outside the borders of the city. Up to thirteen religious congregations then settled on the slopes and acquired vast pieces of land. Their possessions were seized and many buildings destroyed during the French Revolution.
Croix-Rousse is known as the main silk production area, but the industry did not exist on the hill until the early 19th century and the introduction of new weaving technology; at that time, silk had already been produced in Lyon for over 250 years. The industry gave birth to a unique architecture: the ''canuts''' apartments had very high ceilings to accommodate the newly introduced Jacquard looms, which were up to 4 metres high; high windows gave the necessary natural lighting for the delicate work; and mezzanines provided space for family life. The neighbourhood is still one of the most densely populated in Europe. The first revolt of the ''canuts'' in 1831 is regarded as one of the first social conflicts of the industrial era. It gave the hill its reputation of a "rebel" neighbourhood. In 1852, the Croix-Rousse ''commune'' (the plateau) was made a district of Lyon. Local people still talk about "going to Lyon" when they go down to the city centre. Then important works were undertaken, such as the construction of the first funicular in the world, linking the plateau to central Lyon (it started in Rue Terme; the tunnel is now a road tunnel), or the creation of the Croix-Rousse hospital.
Nowadays the plateau keeps a "village" mood, the slopes still have a "rebel" spirit, with many artists and associations based there, but the sociology of the neighbourhood has considerably evolved with the renovation works and the subsequent rise in real estate prices and massive arrival of upper-middle-class families (''bobos''). Local authorities, however, are committed to preserving social diversity.
The name "Croix-Rousse" comes from a limestone cross which was erected at the top of the hill in the beginning of the 16th century. It was then destroyed and rebuilt several times. A replica installed in 1994 can be seen on Place Joannes Ambre (between the hospital and Croix-Rousse theatre).
Amphitheatre des Trois Gaules. ue Lucien Sportisse, 69001 Lyon. : Hotel de Ville. This Roman theatre is the place where the first Christian martyrs of Gaul were killed. Documents say that it was the largest theatre in Gaul at that time, but nobody knows exactly how far it extends under the neighbouring buildings, nor what remains from the Roman era after centuries of construction. After the recent closing of the old Fine Arts school (the grey building overlooking the theatre), a debate was initiated about what should be done with this exceptional archaeological site. The theatre can be seen from the street but is not open to the public for safety reasons.
Montee de la Grande Cote. 9001 Lyon. : Hotel de Ville/Croix-Rousse. This steep street has Renaissance buildings and offers a very beautiful view over the city from its top.
'''Croix-Rousse traboules''': Look for the lanterns over the doors and the specific signs.
:* 7 rue Mottet-de-Gerando <> 8 rue Bodin
:* 9 place Colbert <> 14 bis montee St Sebastien: the beautiful Cour des Voraces.
:* 14 bis montee Saint-Sebastien <> 29 rue Imbert-Colomes
:* 20 rue Imbert Colomes <> 55 rue Tables Claudiennes
:* 30 bis rue Burdeau <> 17 rue Rene Leynaud (passage Thiaffait)
:* 6 rue des Capucins <> 1 rue Sainte Marie des Terreaux
:* 12 rue Sainte-Catherine <> 6 place des Terreaux
Mur des Canuts. oulevard des Canuts. : Henon. This painted wall is dedicated to the history and typical architecture of the Croix-Rousse hill.
St Bruno church. impasse des Chartreux, 69001 Lyon. : 2/13/18/45-Clos Jouve. ttp://pagesperso-orange.fr/paroissesaintbruno/. on-Sat 3PM-5PM. ree. The only Baroque church in Lyon. The interior is magnificent, especially the altar (by Servandoni, modified by Soufflot, 18th century) and the canopy (by Servandoni).
Jardin Rosa Mir. 7 grande rue de la Croix-Rousse, 69004 Lyon. : Henon. ttp://rosa.mir.free.fr. pr 1-Nov 30, Sat 3PM-6PM. ree. This amazing garden was built by a Spanish refugee, Jules Senis, and dedicated to his mother. Senis had cancer and had made the vow of building this garden if he ever came out of the hospital; fortunately, he did. The garden is a fine mixture of mineral and vegetal elements, in a style influenced by Gaudi's works in Barcelona.
Presqu'ile
For the people of Lyon, Presqu'ile is the place to go for shopping, dining or clubbing. It also represents a large part of the city's economic activity.
This peninsula between the Rhone and Saone rivers was largely shaped by man. When the first inhabitants settled on what was then called ''Canabae'', the junction of the river was located near the current site of St Martin d'Ainay basilica. South of this point was an island. From 1772, titanic works led by engineer Antoine-Michel Perrache reunited the island to the mainland. The swamps which existed there were then dried out, which allowed the construction of Perrache station, opened in 1846. Northern Presqu'ile was largely redesigned from 1848; the only remaining Renaissance part is around Rue Merciere.
Most of the action on Presqu'ile actually takes place between Terreaux and Bellecour. Between Bellecour and Perrache, the neighbourhood of Ainay is traditionally home to the Catholic bourgeoisie. Perrache station and its "exchange centre" (freeway interchange, car parks, metro and bus station) are a very important border; going from one side to the other is a challenge, be it on foot or by car. In the area south of Perrache, there were until very recently two prisons (closing down in April 2009), a wholesale food market (recently moved to Corbas in the southern suburbs) and large warehouses and workshops belonging the the national railway company SNCF. A massive renovation plan was put under way a few years ago with the construction of a new tram line and the opening of a cultural centre (''La Sucriere''). In the next years, a huge number of new housing, office and administrative buildings should appear, including new headquarters for the Rhone-Alpes region. A new museum is under construction (''Musee des Confluences'') as well as a "nautical plaza".
Place des Terreaux. 9001 Lyon. : Hotel de Ville. This large square was completely redesigned in the 1990s by the artist Daniel Buren. On the East side stands the City Hall. On the North side, you will find the fountain sculpted by Bartholdi, the 'father' of the Statue of Liberty; this fountain was moved from the West side when the square was renovated. It now faces Palais St Pierre, which hosts the Museum of Fine Arts.
Hotel de Ville. ity Hall. lace des Terreaux and Place de la Comedie, 69001 Lyon. : Hotel de Ville. The city hall, built in the 17th century, has a very beautiful facade on Place des Terreaux. The most notable feature of this facade is the sculpture representing King Henri IV on horseback (in the middle of the upper part). Unfortunately, it is impossible to visit the building except during the "Heritage days" (''Journees du patrimoine'') in mid-September.
Opera house. lace de la Comedie. : Hotel de Ville. Opposite the City Hall stands the opera house. The 1826 theatre built by Chenavard and Pollet was completely redesigned by Jean Nouvel who kept only the facades and the foyer on the first floor. The building was reopened in 1993. The history of these works was epic: a lot of technical problems occurred and the final cost of the project was 6 times the initial estimate. Today, the glass top has become a classical landmark of the city but the interior design is criticised, for both aesthetic and functional reasons.
Mur des Lyonnais. ue de la Martiniere, 69001 Lyon. : Hotel de Ville. This impressive painted wall portraits some of the most famous people who were born in Lyon, from Renaissance poet Louise Labe to the Lumiere brothers, the inventors of cinema, to chef Paul Bocuse.
Place Sathonay. 9001 Lyon. : Hotel de Ville. A charming neighbourhood square planted with old plane trees. Just sit at a terrace, watch the locals playing ''petanque'' and enjoy the mood.
St Nizier church. lace St Nizier, 69001 Lyon. : Hotel de Ville. Very nice church of flaming Gothic style.
Rue Merciere. 9002 Lyon. : Cordeliers. This cobblestoned pedestrian street is the only significant remain from the Renaissance in Presqu'ile. The name of the street refers to the clothing industry. There are ''traboules'' connecting the street to the buldings on the Saone bank. The street hosts very numerous restaurants which are far from being all good!
Place des Jacobins. 9002 Lyon. : Cordeliers/Bellecour. The state of this square is typical of the "automobile-friendly" urban planning of the 1960s: it is covered with tarmac, too much so given the reasonable traffic around it. A renovation project is under way, which should give the square a greener aspect. The main interest is the central '''fountain''' (1885) by architect Gaspard Andre and sculptor Degeorges. The four statues portrait Lyon-born artists: painter Hippolyte Flandrin (1809-1864), engraver Gerard Audran (1640-1703), sculptor Guillaume Coustou (1677-1746) and architect Philibert Delorme (1510-1570).
Hotel-Dieu. lace de l'Hopital, 69002 Lyon. : Bellecour. The oldest hospital in Lyon and one of the largest buildings in Presqu'ile. The facade along the river Rhone is over 300 metres long. The first hospital was built in 1184-1185; it was modified several times before Soufflot designed the current building, built from 1741 to 1761. The large dome was completed in 1765. The reputation of the hospital was very good throughout the 18th and 19th centuries and in the beginning of the 20th. The newly built Grange Blanche hospital (today Edouard Herriot) then became the main medical centre in the city. Hotel-Dieu doctors were pioneers in numerous specialties, including radiology (Etienne Destot), oncology (Leon Berard), surgery (Joseph Gensoul, Matthieu Jaboulay) and orthopedics (Louis Leopold Ollier); they contributed in making Lyon the second medical centre in the country after Paris. The building no longer fits the needs of modern medicine, therefore the hospital will close down in 2010. The future use of the building in still unclear.<br>Hotel-Dieu hosts the '''Lyon hospitals museum''' (''Musee des Hospices civils de Lyon'').
Theatre des Celestins. lace des Celestins, 69002 Lyon. : Bellecour. Designed by Gaspard Andre and opened in 1877, the building has a beautiful Italian-style facade. In the middle of the quiet plaza outside the theatre stands a strange periscope in which you can see rotating geometric shapes, like a kaleidoscope. Those were actually painted in the car park beneath the plaza by the famous artist Daniel Buren and they are reflected by a rotating mirror. To enter the car park and see the other side, take the stairway on your right when looking at the theatre.
Place Bellecour. 9002 Lyon. : Bellecour. The largest clear square in Europe. In the center stands the equestrian statue of Louis XIV ("under the horse's tail" is a usual meeting point for locals). Apart from this, it is rather empty, windy and not so pleasant. A renovation project is under way. Between the southeast corner of Place Bellecour and the river Rhone is Place Antonin Poncet. There was a hospital there (''Hopital de la Charite''), built in 1622 and demolished in 1934. The only remain is the bell tower ('''Clocher de la Charite''') built in 1667.
Basilique St Martin d'Ainay. ue de l'Abbaye d'Ainay, 69002 Lyon. : Ampere Victor Hugo. 4 72 40 02 50. ttp://abbayeainay.free.fr. on-Sat 8:30AM-12PM/2:30PM-6PM, Sun 8:30AM-12PM. ree. The only entirely Romanesque church in Lyon, dating back to the 11th-12th centuries. The abbey of Ainay was one of the most powerful in France between the 13th and the 16th centuries. A must-see for its very nice atmosphere.
Boat trips on the Saone. avig'Inter company. uai des Celestins, near Passerelle du Palais de Justice, 69002 Lyon. : Cordeliers/Bellecour. 4 78 42 96 81. ttp://www.naviginter.fr. ar 28-Nov 8, Tue-Fri 2PM-6PM, Sat-Sun 11AM-6PM. dult ?9, child ?6. A boat trip can be a good way to see Lyon from a different point of view. Boats will take you either upstream to Ile Barbe or downstream to the Confluence. Night trips available on Fridays and Saturdays.
Other areas
Cite Internationale. uai Charles de Gaulle, 69006 Lyon. : C1. This business and residential area is the most important urban project Lyon has seen in recent years. Designed by the famous Italian architect Renzo Piano (also known for Beaubourg modern art centre in Paris and part of the Potsdamer Platz area in Berlin), it comprises a convention centre, hotels and luxury apartments just between the Rhone and Parc de la Tete d'Or.
Etats-Unis neighbourhood. oulevard des Etats-Unis, 69008 Lyon. : Etats-Unis-Musee Tony Garnier. This neighbourhood was built by the famous local architect Tony Garnier in the 1920s to house industry workers. Along with Edouard Herriot hospital, it is one of the masterpieces of this visionary architect. The main axis of the neighbourhood, Boulevard des Etats-Unis, was named to honour the United States, who had just entered World War I when the street was opened in 1917. 25 wall paintings made in the 1980s and 1990s show examples of Garnier's work and his "ideal city projects"; see also "Musee urbain Tony Garnier" in the museums section.
Ile Barbe. 9009 Lyon. : 31/40/43-Ile Barbe. This charming island on the river Saone is the only inhabited island in Lyon. In the 5th century, one of the first monasteries in Gaul was founded there. It became a powerful Benedictine abbey (from the 9th century) but was finally ruined in 1526 by Protestants, during the religious wars. Of the three churches that existed on the island, only the Romanesque '''Notre-Dame''' remains. The island also has other old buildings in a quiet and green environment. The suspension bridge was built in 1827.
Museums and Galleries
Palais Saint-Pierre / Musee des Beaux Arts. useum of Fine Arts. 0 place des Terreaux, 69001 Lyon. : Hotel de Ville. 4 72 10 17 40. ttp://www.mba-lyon.fr/mba/. pen daily 10AM-6PM, except Tue and public holidays, Fri open 10:30AM-6PM, partial closures 12PM-2:15PM (see website for details), ticket office closes 5:30PM. dult ?6, reduced ?4, under 18 and some others free, audioguide ?3.
Musee d'Art contemporain. useum of Contemporary Art. 1 quai Charles de Gaulle, 69006 Lyon. : C1-Musee d'Art contemporain. 4 72 69 17 18. ttp://mac-lyon.com/mac/sections/en. ed-Sun 12PM-7PM. ees vary depending on the exhibition. Holds only temporary exhibitions which are often very interesting and popular.
Institut Lumiere - Musee vivant du Cinema. 5 rue du Premier Film, 69008 Lyon. : Monplaisir-Lumiere. 4 78 78 18 95. ttp://www.institut-lumiere.org/. ue-Sun 11AM-6:30PM. Closed Jan 1, May 1, and Dec 25. Open on bank holiday Mondays. dult ?6, under 18 and students ?5. Located in the Lumiere brothers' house, this museum presents an interesting history of cinema through various items and film excerpts. Also worth seeing for the lovely architecture.
Musee urbain Tony Garnier. rue des Serpollieres, 69008 Lyon. : Etats-Unis-Musee Tony Garnier. 4 78 75 16 75. ttp://www.museeurbaintonygarnier.com/. isitor centre: Tue-Sat 2PM-6PM, guided tours Sat at 2:30PM or by appointment for groups of 10 or more. uided tours: adult ?6, under 18 ?4, children under 5 free; audioguide: adult ?5, under 18 ?3, children under 5 free. This museum was created during the renovation of the Etats-Unis neighbourhood in the 1980s and 1990s, and the inhabitants were strongly involved in the project. The museum comprises a recreated apartment of the 1930s, which shows how life was like in these very modern housing units, and the 25 wall paintings depicting Garnier's work and ideals. You can also see the walls on your own but you will miss the interesting comments on the history of the area and the social project behind it.
Centre d'Histoire de la Resistance et de la Deportation. useum of the Resistance during World War II. 4 avenue Berthelot, 69007 Lyon. : Centre Berthelot. 4 72 73 33 54. ttp://www.chrd.lyon.fr. ed-Sun 9AM-5:30PM. Closed on holidays. dult ?3. Free for children under 18. Located in the former Gestapo regional headquarters, this museum depicts the daily life in Lyon under the German occupation and keeps memories of this tragic period. Often holds exhibitions (mostly photography).
Musee des Arts Decoratifs / Musee des Tissus. ecorative Arts museum / Fabrics museum. 4 rue de la Charite, 69002 Lyon. : Ampere Victor Hugo. 4 78 38 42 00. usees@lyon.cci.fr. ttp://www.musee-des-tissus.com. ue-Sun 10AM-12PM and 2PM-5:30PM. Closed on holidays. dults: ?4.58, groups (10 adults minimum) ?3.81, students ?2.29, free for children under 18.
Musee historique de Lyon et Musee de la Marionnette (aka Musee Gadagne). 4 rue de Gadagne, 69005 Lyon. : Vieux Lyon. 4 78 42 03 61. ttp://www.museegadagne.com/. After 10 years of major refurbishment works, this museum dedicated to the history of the city and to puppets (like the famous Guignol from Lyon) is due to reopen on June 12, 2009.
Musee gallo-romain de Fourviere. 7 rue Cleberg, 69005 Lyon. : Minimes-Theatres Romains. 4 72 38 49 30. ttp://www.musees-gallo-romains.com. ue-Sun 10AM-6PM, closed Jan 1, May 1, Nov 1 and Dec 25. dult ?4, reduced fee ?2.50, under 18 and disabled free; free for all on Thursdays. The second largest museum in France, it has all kinds of things relating to Rhone-Alps history. A free visit to the Roman theatres may be just as interesting for those not into the details.
Musee de la Miniature et des Decors de cinema. iniature and Movie scenery Museum. 0 rue St Jean, 69005 Lyon. : Vieux Lyon. 4 72 00 24 77. ttp://www.mimlyon.com. on 2PM-6:30PM, Tue-Fri 10AM-6:30PM, Sat-Sun 10AM-7PM. dult ?7, under 15/student ?5.50. Created by artist Dan Ohlmann, this private gallery shows about 120 miniature models of all kinds of scenes: houses, restaurants, workshops, schools, etc., from Lyon or elsewhere, historical or contemporary. The accuracy of the models is astonishing and some sections will be real fun for children. Movie sceneries are also presented. The gallery is in a large 16th-century building called ''Maison des Avocats'' (Lawyers' house).
Musee des Hospices civils de Lyon. yon hospitals museum. place de l'Hopital, 69002 Lyon. : Bellecour. 4 72 41 30 42. ttp://www.chu-lyon.fr/internet/chu/musee/musee_presentation.htm. on-Fri 1PM-6PM except public holidays. ull fee ?4, student ?2. This museum recreates the rich history of medicine in Lyon; it also exhibits art works donated to the hospitals by their benefactors (paintings, sculptures, pieces of furniture). A number of items come from the former Hopital de la Charite, demolished in 1934.
Musee de l'Imprimerie. rinting museum. 3 rue de la Poulaillerie, 69002 Lyon. : Cordeliers. 4 78 37 65 98. useeimp@lyon.asi.fr. ttp://www.imprimerie.lyon.fr. ed-Sun 9:30AM-12PM and 2PM-6PM. Closed on holidays. dult ?3.80, students in groups: ?2. Visit it only if you're a printing specialist, the collection is important, but it is presented in a totally outdated way. To avoid.
Parks and Gardens
Parc de la Tete d'Or. etween Boulevard des Belges, Quai Charles de Gaulle and Boulevard de Stalingrad, 69006 Lyon. : Massena / B: C1-several stops around the park. ct 15-Apr 14: 6:30AM-8:30PM, Apr 15-Oct 14: 6:30AM-10:30PM. Completed in 1862, this 105-hectare English-style garden is one of the largest and arguably one of the most beautiful urban parks in France. It is a popular place for families as well as joggers. The highlights of the park include the large greenhouses, the botanical garden, the rose garden and the recently added "African plain" in which animals wander in a natural-style environment ? perfect for children.
Rhone banks. uai Charles de Gaulle, av de Grande-Bretagne, quai de Serbie, quai Sarrail, quai Augagneur, quai Claude Bernard, avenue Leclerc, 69006/69003/69007 Lyon. : Foch, Guillotiere, Stade de Gerland. The right bank of the river Rhone has recently been turned from an ugly car park into a 5-km promenade with various landscapes and great views over the Croix-Rousse and Presqu'Ile areas. The place had immediate success among locals. A bicycle is perfect to enjoy it, except on sunny weekends, when it is too crowded to ride safely.
Parc de Gerland. venue Jean Jaures, 69007 Lyon. : Stade de Gerland. The Rhone banks promenade ends here. This recent park does not have the majesty of Parc de la Tete d'Or but it is far less crowded and boasts some nice examples of modern landscaping. Still under development, it should cover 80 hectares when completed.
Parc des Hauteurs. lace de Fourviere/Montee Nicolas de Lange, 69005 Lyon. : Fourviere. Located between the metal tower of Fourviere and the Loyasse cemetery, this is rather a promenade with a nice footbridge offering great views towards the Monts d'Or and Beaujolais. There is an aerial adventure course and a skiing and moutain bike slope.
Jardin des Curiosites. arden of Curiosities. assage des Hauts de St Just, 69005 Lyon. : Minimes/St Just. Small garden hidden in the bottom of a street/car park, behind a metallic door. It was designed by Canadian artists in a surrealistic spirit (recalls Magritte or Dali). Also a very nice viewpoint over the southern part of Lyon.
Do
Cultural events are listed by two weekly magazines: ''Le Petit Bulletin'' (free, available in cinemas, theatres, some bars, etc. and online [http://www.petit-bulletin.fr/]) and ''Lyon Poche'' (from newsagents or online [http://www.lyonpoche.com]).
Music, dancing and opera
Auditorium. 4 rue de Bonnel, 69003 Lyon. : Part-Dieu. 4 78 95 95 95. ttp://www.auditoriumlyon.com. The Lyon National Orchestra plays in this impressive, modern concert hall which also hosts some jazz and world music concerts.
Opera house. place de la Comedie, 69001 Lyon. : Hotel de Ville. 4 72 00 45 00. ttp://www.opera-lyon.com. The old opera house was completely redesigned by Jean Nouvel in the 1990s and hosts opera and dancing shows, along with a few other concerts (especially jazz) in the smaller "Amphitheatre" room.
Transbordeur. d Stalingrad, 69100 Villeurbanne. : C1-Palais des Congres. 4 78 93 08 33. ttp://www.transbordeur.fr. The medium-sized hall (capacity 1,500) for rock or popular music concerts.
Ninkasi. 67 rue Marcel Merieux, 69007 Lyon. : Stade de Gerland. 4 72 76 89 00. ttp://www.ninkasi.fr. This is a modern-day institution in Lyon. Ninkasi has two places for live music: Kafe (free shows, essentially electronic music) and Kao (a concert hall dedicated to rock and electronic music). It is also a beer brewery and has bars all over the Presqu'ile, and also in Villeurbanne.
Maison de la Danse. avenue Jean Mermoz. : Bachut. 4 72 78 18 18. ttp://www.maisondeladanse.com. A theatre dedicated to modern dancing. Also a fine example of architecture of the 1960s.
Theatre
Lyon has a large number of theatres ranging from tiny "cafes-theatres" to big municipal institutions. You can enjoy any type of show from comedy to classical drama to avant-garde productions.
There is a '''half-price ticket booth''', recently opened on Place des Terreaux (in the museum building, with a separate entrance). They sell tickets for shows of the day. You have to go there (no online or telephone sales).
Theatre des Celestins. lace des Celestins, 69002 Lyon. : Bellecour. 4 72 77 40 00. ttp://www.celestins-lyon.org. The historical theatre, in a beautiful 19th century building by Gaspard Andre, recently refurbished. Serious programme.
Theatre de la Croix-Rousse. lace Joannes Ambre, 69004 Lyon. : Henon. 4 78 27 90 42. ttp://www.croix-rousse.com. 'The other' theatre, with a more avant-garde programme.
TNP. place Lazare Goujon, 69100 Villeurbanne. : Gratte-Ciel. 4 78 03 30 00. ttp://www.tnp-villeurbanne.fr. Jean Vilar's spirit of 'popular theatre' lives on in the historically left-wing Villeurbanne. As of April, 2009, the theatre is undergoing major refurbishment works and the shows have moved (see website)..
Theatre Tete d'Or. 0 av du Marechal de Saxe, 69003 Lyon. : C3-Saxe-Lafayette / T: Saxe-Prefecture / M: Place Guichard. 4 78 62 96 73. ttp://www.theatretetedor.com. This is the only theatre in Lyon showing popular comedies in the Parisian "boulevard" style.
There are also a number of small independent theatres. Check out '''Les Ateliers''', '''Espace 44''', '''Theatre des Clochards Celestes'''.
"Cafe-theatre" is a very nice way to spend an evening with a show (usually comedy), drinks and food. Here is a small selection:
Complexe du Rire. rue des Capucins, 69001 Lyon. : Hotel de Ville. 4 78 27 23 59. ttp://www.complexedurire.com. Two rooms and talented young comedians.
Espace Gerson. place Gerson, 69005 Lyon. : C3-Gare St Paul. 4 78 27 96 99. ttp://www.espacegerson.com.
The 200-year-old '''Guignol''' is a very famous character of puppet theatre. This irreverent ''canut'' who frequently challenges the law in his adventures was created by Laurent Mourguet, a ''canut'' himself, in 1808. The main side characters in Guignol shows are his wife Madelon, his Beaujolais-drinking friend Gnafron and the policeman, who always ends up being ridiculous. It was only in the 1950s that Guignol became a children's favourite. Nowadays, a few theatres perpetuate the tradition for children and adults.
Theatre le Guignol de Lyon. ompagnie des Zonzons. rue Louis Carrand, 69005 Lyon. : C3-Gare St Paul. 4 78 28 92 57. ttp://www.guignol-lyon.com. dult ?9, child under 15 ?7. The largest Guignol theatre, showing original creations for children and adults.
Veritable Guignol du Vieux Lyon et du Parc. lace de Guignol, Parc de la Tete d'Or. : Massena / B: C1-several stops around the park. 4 78 28 60 41. ttp://www.theatre-guignol.com/. ed, Sat, Sun, bank and school holidays 3PM, 4PM, 5PM, 6PM. Especially intended for children, this theatre is conveniently located within the park, near the lake and the zoo.
Cinemas
Institut Lumiere. ue du Premier Film, 69008 Lyon. : Monplaisir-Lumiere. 4 78 78 18 95. ttp://www.institut-lumiere.org/. The museum also has a theatre showing thematic series of cinema masterpieces (in original version). The theatre is in the former Lumiere factory, which was the scenery of the first movie in history (''La sortie des usines Lumiere'').
Comoedia. 3 avenue Berthelot, 69007 Lyon. : Centre Berthelot. 4 26 99 45 00. ttp://www.cinema-comoedia.com. After a few years of closure followed by refurbishment works, this independent cinema is now very comfortable and has a relatively avant-garde programme. All foreign movies are shown in original version.
CNP. ellecour: 12 rue de la Barre, 69002 Lyon; Odeon: 6 rue Grolee, 69002 Lyon; Terreaux: 40 rue du President Edouard Herriot, 69001 Lyon. : Bellecour, Cordeliers, Hotel de Ville. Three independent cinemas; the Bellecour branch has the most avant-garde programme. All foreign movies in original version.
Pathe. ttp://www.cinemasgaumontpathe.fr. This major national firm has four cinemas in Lyon (Cordeliers, Bellecour, Vaise, Carre de Soie) offering essentially American blockbusters and mainstream French movies. The Cordeliers branch has foreign films in original version.
UGC. ttp://www.ugc.fr. The other major cinema firm, has three cinemas in Lyon (Part-Dieu, Cite Internationale, Astoria). The Astoria (''M: Massena'') has foreign movies in original version.
Sports
Olympique Lyonnais. tade de Gerland, 69007 Lyon. : Stade de Gerland. ttp://www.olweb.fr. The local football (soccer) team have been national champions from 2002 through 2008. Their ladies' team also dominates the championship. They play at Gerland stadium, built by Tony Garnier in the 1930s and renovated for the 1998 World Cup.
ASVEL. stroballe, 69100 Villeurbanne. : Laurent Bonnevay. ttp://www.asvel.com. The Villeurbanne basketball team has a long history as one of the major clubs in the country.
LOU Rugby. tade Vuillermet, av. Paul Santy, 69008 Lyon. : Mermoz-Pinel. ttp://www.lourugby.com. The rugby team of Lyon plays in second division.
CS Bourgoin-Jallieu. tade Pierre Rajon, av. du Professeur Tixier, 38300 Bourgoin-Jallieu. ttp://www.csbj-rugby.fr. Rugby fans have to travel to Bourgoin-Jallieu, about 40 km east of Lyon, to see CSBJ play top league matches.
Learn
Lyon is an important university center. French language courses are available at Inflexyon [http://www.inflexyon.com/ENG], Alliance Francaise [http://www.aflyon.org], Lyon-Bleu [http://www.lyon-bleu.fr], Ecole Interculturelle de Francais [http://www.eife2f.com]. If you look for an immersion program, you can have a look at ESL schools groups Learn French in Lyon with ESL [http://www.esl-schools.org].
Work
Money can be made by giving private English lessons. Most French are keen to speak English. There are some schools which accept non-TEFL qualified teachers, but obviously a qualification helps. Try Berlitz or Demos. There are several anglophone pubs which rely on student servers. Speaking French to a reasonable level is a must, even though bar vocabulary is limited.
There is an ANPE next to the Opera on Rue de la Republique. Just go in, you don't have to book, and there are lots of job vacancies to be found. Also search for a shelf with black folders on it. They contain details of better paid jobs.
Buy
The usual hours for downtown shopping are 10AM-7PM, Monday to Saturday. Some larger places close a bit later (7:30PM). Shops are closed on Sundays, except in December and in Vieux Lyon where Sunday is the busiest day of the week!
La Part-Dieu. oulevard Vivier-Merle, 69003 Lyon. : Part-Dieu. ttp://www.partdieu.com. on-Sat 10AM-8PM. A huge shopping mall (the largest downtown mall in Europe) on four levels, with most major fashion brands. Avoid Saturday afternoons, the place is awfully crowded.
Rue de la Republique. 9002 Lyon. : Cordeliers/Bellecour. This pedestrian street is the main downtown shopping spot. Also check out Rue du President Edouard Herriot (more expensive in general) and Rue de Brest; these three streets run parallel to each other along Presqu'ile.
Rue du President Edouard Herriot, rue Gasparin, rue Emile Zola, rue des Archers. 9002 Lyon. : Bellecour. In the "golden square" between Place Bellecour and Place des Jacobins, you will find a number of famous luxury brands.
Rue Victor Hugo. 9002 Lyon. : Bellecour/Ampere Victor Hugo/Perrache. Brand names and tourist traps south of Bellecour.
Rue Auguste Comte. 9002 Lyon. : Bellecour/Ampere Victor Hugo. Parallel to rue Victor Hugo, this is where you will find most antique shops in Lyon.
Carre de Soie. venue de Bohlen, 69120 Valux-en-Velin. /T: Vaulx-en-Velin La Soie. ttp://www.carredesoie.fr. on-Sat 10AM-7:30PM, some stores open Sun. New shopping mall (opened April 2009) with fashion stores, restaurants and a cinema multiplex, in a developing suburban area.
Food
Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse. 02 cours Lafayette, 69003 Lyon. : C3-Halles Paul Bocuse, M/T: Part-Dieu. ue-Sat 7AM-12PM and 3PM-7PM, Sun 7AM-12PM. Formerly located on Place des Cordeliers, the Halles moved to the Part-Dieu area in 1971. If you want the very best food, this is the place to go. It has a price however...
Croix-Rousse market. oulevard de la Croix-Rousse, 69001 Lyon. : Croix-Rousse. ue-Sun 7AM-1PM. Very popular and typical market mith many local producers. On Tuesdays, also sells non-food items. Very crowded on sunny Sundays, but this is the right time to enjoy the particular mood of the neighbourhood.
St Antoine market. uai St Antoine and Quai des Celestins, 69002 Lyon. : Cordeliers. ue-Sun 7AM-1PM. The other major market, in a wealthier part of town. Also some local fruit and vegetable producers. Eating oysters by the Saone is a very pleasant occupation before Sunday lunch.
Wine
Antic Wine. 8 rue du Boeuf, 69005 Lyon. : Vieux Lyon. 4 78 37 08 96. nticwine@yahoo.fr. ttp://www.anticwine.com. ue-Sun 11AM-8PM. This tiny shop has an exceptional selection of wines from all over the world. Very interesting selection of Rhone valley wines, amazing collection of old Burgundies. Very reasonable prices. Also a must-see for port amateurs, with the largest selection in France and prices ranging from ?12 to ?3,000.
Vercoquin. 3 rue de la Thibaudiere, 69007 Lyon. : Saxe-Gambetta. 4 78 69 43 87. ontact@vercoquin.com. ttp://www.vercoquin.com. ue-Sat 10AM-8PM, Sun 10AM-1PM. This wine store is specialised in organic and "natural" wines. It is also a wine bar, all bottles of the shop can be drunk there with a price supplement of ?6.
Eat
Restaurants have their menus with prices displayed outside. As everywhere in France, the prices '''always''' include service, bread and tap water (ask for a ''carafe'' of water). Tipping has become a rare practice, which contributes to the bad image of French people abroad! You are expected to tip only if you are particularly satisfied with the service. This is especially true in budget or mid-range restaurants, maybe less so in expensive places where a little more generosity can be expected; nothing is compulsory, though. Typical tips depend, of course, on the price of the menu and your level of satisfaction but they are generally not as high as in the US, for example. If you pay by credit card and wish to add a tip, you can tell the person in charge how much he/she should charge your card.
The traditional restaurants in Lyon are called ''bouchons''; the origin of the word is unclear (it literally means "cork"). They appeared at the end of the 19th century, when an economic crisis in the silk industry forced wealthy families to fire their cooks, who opened their own restaurants for a working-class clientele. These women are referred to as ''meres'' (mothers); the most famous of them, Eugenie Brazier, became one of the first chefs to be awarded three stars (the highest ranking) by the famous Michelin gastronomic guide. She also had a young apprentice called Paul Bocuse. Eating in a good ''bouchon'' is certainly a must-do. They serve the typical local dishes:
'''salade lyonnaise''' (Lyon salad): green salad with bacon cubes, croutons and a poached egg;
'''saucisson chaud''': a hot, boiled sausage; can be cooked with red wine (''saucisson beaujolais'') or in a bun (''saucisson brioche'');
'''quenelle de brochet''': dumpling made of flour and egg with pike fish and a crayfish sauce (Nantua sauce);
'''tablier de sapeur''': marinated tripes coated with breadcrumbs then fried, even locals often hesitate before trying it;
'''andouillette''': sausage made with chopped tripes, usually served with a mustard sauce;
'''gratin dauphinois''': the traditional side dish, oven-cooked sliced potatoes with cream;
'''cervelle de canut''' (''canut'' brain): fresh cheese with garlic and herbs.
These dishes are very tasty. They were originally workers' food, so they are generally fat and the portions are usually quite big. The quality is very variable since the ''bouchons'' are one of the main tourist attractions of the city. A good tip: never trust big signs reading "''Veritable bouchon lyonnais''" (genuine ''bouchon'') or with a list of typical dishes on the front window. Those who need to write this are most often tourist traps. And if someone on the street tries to get you into a restaurant, run! A good ''bouchon'', however, offers very good value for money.
In ''bouchons'' and other lower- to mid-range restaurants, basic wines can be served by the ''pot'', a typical bottle containing 46 cl and filled from a cask or wine box. The smaller ''fillette'' (little girl) contains 28 cl. This is definitely cheaper than a 75 cl bottle, but the quality is not always guaranteed...
Lyon was named "capital of gastronomy" by the great gastronomic writer Curnonsky in 1935; at that time there were no exotic restaurants, no diets and nobody was talking about fusion cuisine or ''bistronomy''. Fortunately, the local gastronomy has considerably evolved since then and there is now far more to dining in Lyon than the ''bouchons''. Kebab shops, Asian food, bistros, three-star restaurants: Lyon has them all.
The locals are generally fond of eating out and the best places get known quickly by word of mouth. Moreover, the restaurants are quite small on average. It is strongly advised to book a table, especially for dinner, otherwise you may end up in one of the multiple tourist traps.
Budget
''' Chez Mounier''' ? A traditional ''bouchon'' (restaurant) with good food for a very reasonable price (a complete menu for ?10). Located on the south-east street of the Place Bellecour.
Otherwise, '''kebab shops''' abound, most with the same price: ?4.50 for a kebab, ?5 for a kebab with frites. Look especially near Place des Terreaux (''M: Hotel de Ville'').
'''El Loco Latino''', 15 minutes across the Rhone from Hotel de Ville. Latino bar with low budget food. The day menu is ?7.50 and the empanada is ?4.
'''Wallace Whisky Bar''', five minutes across the Saone from Hotel de Ville. Mixture of French and British food. Fish 'n chips, bacon and egg, etc. Prices from ?7.
Many bakeries offer good quality sandwiches, made with fresh ''baguette'' of course! Try, for example, '''Chez Jules''', 7 rue Octavio Mey, 69005 Lyon (''B: C3-Gare St Paul''), or '''Le Fournil de l'Opera''', Place Louis Pradel, 69001 Lyon (''M: Hotel de Ville'').
Mid-range
Chez Martial. 4 rue Saint Jean. : Vieux Lyon. 4 78 38 31 75. enu ?19. Tiny ''bouchon'', maybe the only acceptable one in a street full of tourist traps.
Le Bistrot de St-Paul. quai de Bondy, 69005 Lyon. : C3-Gare St Paul. 4 78 28 63 19. ttp://www.bistrotdestpaul.fr. unch ?14.50, dinner ?21.50/29.50/33. This restaurant serving mostly specialties from southwestern France (duck, foie gras, cassoulet...) has become locally famous for its "crisis" menu: at lunch, you can decide what the price of your menu should be. Most people, however, pay the normal price or even more because the food is worth it!
Le Layon. 2 rue Merciere. : Cordeliers. 4 78 42 94 08. on-Sun, lunch and dinner. Serves all day (12PM-12AM) on Sat. ull menu ?23.50/27.50. In another street full of tourist traps, this restaurant offers very good, classical local and French cuisine. Try the ''grenouilles'' (frogs)! Very nice terrace. Good wine list at interesting prices.
Les Adrets. 0 rue du Boeuf, 69005 Lyon. : Vieux Lyon. 4 78 38 24 30. unch from ?13, dinner ?23 to ?38. Very good classic French cuisine, made from quality products, in a nice decor. One of the best places in the area.
Le Potager des Halles. rue de la Martiniere, 69001 Lyon. : Hotel de Ville. 4 72 00 24 84. ttp://www.cartesurtables.com/restaurants/restaurant_n-471.htm. losed Sun, Mon. unch ?15, dinner ?32/35. This restaurant serves traditional French cuisine made from very good and very fresh products, with a Mediterranean influence. Very good wine list too. The lunch menu is an absolute steal!
Brasserie Georges. 0, cours de Verdun. ocated behind Perrache Station. 33 (0)4 72565456. ttp://www.brasseriegeorges.com/index.php?idLang=2. rom ?25 to 35. An exceptional traditional Brasserie, serving traditional food with an Alsatian leaning in a fine interior. A real Art Deco treat. Founded in 1836, with a tradition of high quality service. It also contains a brewery and bar and the interior is worth a look even if you don't want to eat.
Le Resto. 0, rue Mulet. ust off rue de la Republique. 33 (0)4 78287715"price=" most entrees under ?20.> Very nice little restaurant with great Lyon food and very lovely decor. Very Reasonable wine prices as well.
Bouchon Chez Paul. 1 rue du Major Martin, 69001 Lyon. : Hotel de Ville. 4 78 28 35 83. estaurantchezpaul@voila.fr. ttp://www.chezpaul.fr. losed Sun, Mon (lunch). ull menu ?25. A very good ''bouchon'' serving huge portions. Noisy and friendly.
L'Ouest. quai du Commerce, 69009 Lyon. : Gare de Vaise. 4 37 64 64 64. ttp://www.nordsudbrasseries.com. ull menu from ?24. A brasserie owned by Paul Bocuse, near the river Saone. The specialties are fish and cuisine of the Caribbean.
L'Art et la Maniere. 02 Grande rue de la Guillotiere, 69007 Lyon. : Saxe-Gambetta. 4 37 27 05 83. ttp://www.art-et-la-maniere.fr. losed Sat, Sun, Mon dinner. unch from ?16, dinner ?26/33. Small no-tourist restaurant in a no-tourist area. Short menu but very creative, high-quality cooking. Good (although short) wine list at reasonable prices.
Espace Le Bec. e Centre, upper level, St Exupery airport. 4 72 22 71 86. -course menu from ?20, 3-course menu from ?25. Before boarding your return flight, you can treat yourself with a last fine meal in Lyon. This place was opened by Nicolas Le Bec, who runs the most trendy gastronomic restaurant in the city and offers quality ''bistronomic'' cuisine.
Splurge
Christian Tetedoie. 4 quai Pierre-Scize, 69005 Lyon. : 19/31/40/44-Homme de la Roche. 4 78 29 40 10. estaurant@tetedoie.com. ttp://www.tetedoie.com. losed Sat (lunch), Mon (lunch), Sun. ull menu from ?50. A "modern/classic" cuisine, served with great professionalism in a very nice decor. A wine list so big they have to carry it around on a trolley. Good value for money.
La Mere Brazier ? Mathieu Viannay. 2 rue Royale, 69001 Lyon. : Hotel de Ville. 4 78 23 17 20. ttp://www.lamerebrazier.fr. unch menu ?35, dinner menus ?55/75/95. The restaurant opened in 1921 by the legendary Eugenie Brazier was recently taken over by the talented young chef Mathieu Vianney and awarded 2 stars by the Michelin guide only a few months after its opening. Revisited all-time classics (Bresse poultry with truffles, artichokes with foie gras).
L'Auberge de l'Ile. lace Notre-Dame, ile Barbe, 69009 Lyon. : 40/43/31-Ile Barbe. ttp://www.aubergedelile.com. enus ?95/125. One of the best places in Lyon, in a 17th century building on a lovely island on the Saone.
Paul Bocuse. uberge du Pont de Collonges. 0 rue de la Plage, 69660 Collonges-au-Mont-d'Or. 4 72 42 90 90. ttp://www.bocuse.fr. rom ?100. The master of all chefs. Taste the legend of "Monsieur Paul", who is over 80 years old and still runs this palace restaurant... and many others!
Ice cream, pastries, etc.
Nardone. place Ennemond Fousseret/26 quai de Bondy, 69005 Lyon. : C3-Gare St Paul / M: Vieux Lyon. 4 78 28 29 09. ttp://www.glaciernardone.com/. ummer: Mon-Sun 9AM-1AM, winter: Wed-Sun 10AM-7PM, closed Dec 31-Mar 10. rom ?7. Delicious ice cream with very original flavours, served on a very pleasant terrace. Completely overcrowded on sunny weekends, be prepared to queue... but it is worth the wait if you are a real ice cream fan.
Boulangerie du Palais. rue du Palais de Justice, 69005 Lyon. : Vieux Lyon. 4 78 37 09 43. In this small bakery, you will find good ''praline'' tarts, a popular local dessert.
Les Enfants Gates. place Sathonay, 69001 Lyon. : Hotel de Ville. 4 78 30 76 24. ummer: Mon-Sun 12PM-12AM, winter: Tue-Sun 10AM-7PM. Very good ice cream, on a lovely neighbourhood square. Also a good Sunday brunch.
Pain et Cie. 3 rue des Quatre Chapeaux, 69002 Lyon. : Cordeliers. 4 78 38 29 84. on-Sat 7AM-10:30PM. runch ?18. This place is quite popular for its Sunday brunch.
Drink
Lyon offers some nice nightlife. A good starting point is Place des Terreaux and then upwards towards the Croix Rousse. In the streets that climb the hill there are many nice places.
English/Irish pubs
Foreign students often gather in English or Irish pubs, which are more particularly concentrated in the Vieux Lyon area. English-speaking staff everywhere of course...
Albion. 2 rue Sainte Catherine. : Hotel de Ville. 4 78 28 33 00. Beer, whiskey and rock. "The best pub quiz in Lyon" - Special Music Quiz once a month.
Johnny Walsh's. 6 rue St Georges. : Vieux Lyon. 4 78 42 98 76. ttp://www.johnnywalshs.com. ue-Thu 7PM-2AM, Fri-Sun 7PM-3AM. Nice, authentic Irish pub with good music and some live performances.
Wallace. rue Octavio Mey, 69005 Lyon. : C3-Gare St Paul. 4 72 00 23 91. ttp://www.wallacebarlyon.com. on-Sun 11AM-3AM. Comfortable beer and whisky bar with a nice terrace, live sports, pub quiz on Thursdays.
St James's Pub. 9 rue St Jean. : Vieux Lyon. 4 78 37 36 70. Irish pub.
The Smoking Dog. 6 rue Lainerie. : C3-Gare St Paul. 9 64 06 68 90. English pub. Pub quiz on Tuesdays.
Live music
Le Bec de Jazz. 9 rue Burdeau, 69001 Lyon. : Hotel de Ville / Croix Paquet. 6 81 24 37 83. ed-Sat 10PM-5AM. Nice jazz club, with live jazz and a great atmosphere.
Le Phoebus. 2 rue Pouteau, 69001 Lyon. : Hotel de Ville / Croix Paquet. 6 84 62 52 69. ue-Wed 6PM-2AM, Thu 6PM-3AM, Fri-Sat 12PM-3AM. Pub with nice live music (African, reggae).
Others
L'Abreuvoir. 8 rue Ste Catherine, 69001 Lyon. : Hotel de Ville. 4 78 30 17 90. on-Sun 5PM-1AM. There you can join some crazy French listening to crazy French music. Definitely an experience, though not everyone's cup of tea.
'''El Loco Latino''', 32, rue Pasteur, next to the Guillotiere metro station. A small, but lively Latin bar, open daily until 1AM.
'''L'Amsterdam''', 21 Quai Romain Rolland, nice dutch pub.
'''Le Perroquet Bourre''' (The Drunk Parrot), 18 Rue Saint Catherine. Cheap rum, the inside is decorated as a pirate ship.
Boats
At the quai Albert Augagneur is another centre of Lyon nightlife. Along the Rhone river are several out of duty riverboats (peniches) that serve as nightclubs or bars.
'''Sirius''', 21 quai Augagneur. Live events almost every day of the week. The weekends party on two levels. Nice.
'''Q-Boat''', 21 Quai Augagneur. Another boat, here the hype crowd will feel at home.
'''Marquise''' [http://www.marquise.net], Quai Augagneur. Here you get nice alternative hip-hop, retro soul, etc. Sometimes theatre performances.
Wine bars
Wine bars are increasingly popular in Lyon. Here are a few addresses.
La Cave des Voyageurs. place St Paul, 69005 Lyon. : C3-Gare St Paul / M: Hotel de Ville/Vieux Lyon. 4 78 28 92 28. ttp://lacavedesvoyageurs.free.fr. ue-Sat 6PM-1AM. ine by the glass from ?3. a.cavedesvoyageurs@laposte.net. This small and friendly wine bar has a good selection of wines, especially from Beaujolais, Burgundy and the Rhone valley. Also serves some quality food: ham, sausages, cheese.
Georges Five. 2 rue du Boeuf, 69005 Lyon. : Vieux Lyon. 4 72 40 23 30. ttp://www.georgesfive.com. ue-Sat 7PM-1AM. ine by the glass from ?3, bottles ?18-?3,000. This place was recently opened by the owner of the wine shop Antic Wine. It has therefore a very wide selection of wines (2,800 references), ranging from small local producers to the most famous and sought-after names. Also top-quality food: ham, cheese, etc. Be careful: the place is small, very often packed and hosts numerous private events, so a reservation is highly recommended.
Vercoquin. See "Buy".
Sleep
It is generally not difficult to find a hotel room in Lyon, except for the ''Fete des Lumieres'' and during some important professional trade shows like SIRHA (food, hotels and restaurants) and POLLUTEC (environment technology). The dates of those events can be found on the exhibition centre's website [http://www.eurexpo.com].
Budget
Hotel Vaubecour. 8 rue Vaubecour (2nd arrondissement). 4 78 37 44 91. ttp://www.cybevasion.com/hotels/france/hotel_vaubecour_lyon_4163.html. nder ?30. A very simple, but clean and friendly hotel with large rooms and two beds, TV, and washstand. Near Perrache train station and close to just about everything.
Auberge de Jeunesse de Vieux Lyon. outh hostel. Belongs to YHA (international youth hostels association). Bunk bed in a dorm, plus breakfast for ?15 (plus fee, if not member of YHA). Take the metro to Vieux Lyon station then the funicular to Place des Minimes (otherwise a serious hike up a steep hill). Excellent views over city. Tiny kitchen, extremely limited rooms for couples/families. Keeps with the Catholic 1900s tradition of no gender-mixed rooms. No telephone bookings.
'''Hotel Les Carres Pegase''', 31 Rue Chevreul, 04 72 72 08 36. Totally worn down business appart-hotel, in serious need of modernisation - but apart from that with clean sheets and friendly service. Small duplex for four people as low as 60 euro through hostelbookers. But be aware that you get what you pay for. The views for 7th floor is good.
Mid-range
Hotel Victoria. , rue Delandine, Lyon 69002. ehind Perrache Station opposite Brasserie George. 4.78.37.57.61 . ontact@hotelvictorialyon.com. 4.78.42.91.07. 45-55. ttp://hotelvictorialyon.com/. This place is unpretentious and satisfactory. Reasonable value accommodation in a handy location with a friendly welcome.
Splurge
'''Hotel Sofitel Lyon Bellecour''', 20, quai Gailleton (2nd arrondissement), (+33)4 72412020, [http://www.accorhotels.com/accorhotels/fichehotel/gb/sof/0553/fiche_hotel.shtml]. Luxury hotel close to the famous Place Bellecour. Large number of meeting rooms for conventions.
College Hotel. place St Paul, 69005 Lyon. : C3-Gare St Paul / M:Vieux Lyon/Hotel de Ville. 4 72 10 05 05. ontact@college-hotel.com. ttp://www.college-hotel.com. ooms ?116 to ?146 (tax inclusive), breakfast ?12, parking ?15. Conveniently located in the Vieux Lyon area, this 3-star hotel is decorated in the manner of an early 20th century school.
Cour des Loges. -8 rue du Boeuf, 69005 Lyon. : Vieux Lyon. 4 72 77 44 44. ontact@courdesloges.com. ttp://www.courdesloges.com. ooms ?249 to ?620, breakfast ?25. Located in an exceptional 14th-century building in the heart of the old town.
Contact
Main Post Office. 0 place Antonin Poncet, 69002 Lyon. : Bellecour. 4 72 40 65 22. ttp://www.laposte.fr. on-Fri 9AM-7PM, Thu open until 8PM, Sat 9AM-12:30PM.
Terreaux Post Office. rue du President Edouard Herriot. : Hotel de Ville. 4 72 00 58 34. ttp://www.laposte.fr. on-Fri 10AM-7PM, Sat 10AM-5PM.
There are 42 other post offices in all neighbourhoods.
Most internet cafes and call shops are in the Guillotiere neighbourhood (''M: Guillotiere'') and behind Place des Terreaux (Rue Ste Catherine, Rue Romarin, ''M: Hotel de Ville''), because of the large population of immigrants living there.
To call from abroad, omit the first 0 of the phone number. To call abroad from France, dial 00.
Stay safe
Real security problems in the Lyon center are rare, but as in any big city, be on your guard. Pay attention to your surroundings, be aware of pickpockets in crowded places, try not to go out at night alone (especially if you are a woman), etc.
Rue Ste Catherine, behind Place des Terreaux, is locally famous for its bars; on weekend nights there are a lot of drunk people on the street, who might be violent. The police keep a close watch but it is probably better to avoid the area if you are on your own.
In populated places such as Rue de la Republique or outside Part-Dieu station, you may come across people advertising for charities; they can be recognised by their specific, coloured clothing. They will not ask you for money but rather give you information documents which encourage you to donate. Homeless people sell newspapers such as ''Macadam'' or ''Sans-abri'' which help them making some money without begging; they should have an ID card issued by the editors. But there are also people trying to con you and get money for some imaginary charity, sometimes by selling postcards or other items. Never give money directly to someone on the street who claims to be working for charity and does not have official documents, or if the documents look doubtful.
The police can be reached by dialling 17; for the fire brigade, call 18 and for medical emergency, 15. The European emergency number 112 should be used on mobile phones.
Get out
'''The car museum of Rochetaillee''' has a very nice collection of modern and old cars. The main attraction of the museum is Adolf Hitler's armored car. Chateau Rochetaillee, 69270 Rochetaillee-sur-Saone, Tel: 04 78 22 18 80, Fax: 04 78 22 69 60. Open 9AM-7PM daily (EXCEPT Monday) in July and August, 9AM-6PM the rest of the year. Closed on Christmas and New Year. Fees: Adults ?5, free for children under 18.
Perouges is a small village 30 minutes outside of Lyon. Its buildings all date to the middle ages and it's a popular weekend destination for people who live in Lyon.
'''The bird park of Villars-les-Dombes'''.
Vienne and its international jazz festival.
The Swiss border and the city of Geneva are just over two hours away by train.
Annecy, the "Venice of Savoie" with its beautiful lake and canals, is about 2 hours away and makes a nice daytrip.