'''Cha das Calderias''' - literally the Plateau of the Crater - is the area inside the original crater that created the island of Fogo 100000 years ago. The villages of Portela and Bangaeria are effectively joined as they sprawl for a kilometer or two on the main road that crosses the crater.
The villagers live from the agriculture in the rich volcanic soil of the crater. Grapes are used to made the excellent Fogo wine which must be tried. Apples, pears, peaches and figs are also grown.
Understand
Get in
Alguers leave from Sao Filipe. You can also get a lift with Patrick, the proprietor of Pousada Pedra Brabo from his office above the market in Sao Filipe. The pickup leaves from his downtown office around 11:00 for the 2-hour journey (500$).
Aluguers are around the same price but take around three hours due to frequent stops.
Getting back to Sao Filipe is similar with Patrick's pickup leaving at 08:30. Aluguers leave earlier.
Stay
Pousada Pedra Brabo. pposite the concrete soccer pitch. +238) 282 15 21. ttp://www.pedrabrabo.net/. 200$ double with breakfast. 4.966297. 24.369736. edrabrabo@cvtelecom.cv. A very pleasant guesthouse with 12 rooms surrounding a central courtyard. Run by Patrick, a very friendly Frenchman who has lived in the volcano for almost a decade. Rooms are clean and simple. Bathrooms are shared.
Casa Marysa. Associated with Pousada Pedra Brabo. Accomodation is slighly simpler.
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See
Itineraries
Do
The highlight of a trip to Fogo is climbing the Pico de Fogo. Despite the imposing slopes, the climb is possible for anyone of moderate fitness who doesn't mind a bit a rock scrambling.
A sturdy pair of sneakers is essential - no sandals. High-top hiking shoes or even walking sticks are not required but might be appreciated. Don't forget sunscreen and water.
Ideally you will want to spend two nights in Cha das Caldeiras. Take a short walk in the afternoon and arrange a guide for the trip up the peak the following day.
Guides charge around 4500$ for a group, so you might want to ask around to share the cost.
Eat
Pousada Pedra Brabo. is the finest place to eat and is open to non-residents.
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There is a restaurant next to the tourist office which serves good fare.
Drink
Casa Ramires. n the bend in the road near the tourist office. This mini-market serves drinks in the evenings and is the place to hear local music. Try the locally brewed red wine.
Stay safe
Get out