'''Wroclaw''' in Polish, formerly known as '''Breslau''' in German, is a large undiscovered gem of a city in southwestern Poland in the historic region of Silesia. It boasts fascinating architecture, many rivers and bridges, and a lively and metropolitan cultural scene. It is a city with a troubled past, having seen much violence and devastation. Prior to the Second World War, Breslau was the capital of the German province of Lower Silesia. It became Polish territory when, after the War, the Soviets moved the German/Polish border westward to the Oder/Neisse Line. It was almost completely destroyed during the end of the War as the Red Army fought its way into Germany, being declared a "Fortress City" by Hitler. However, it has been wonderfully restored and can now be counted amongst the highlights of Poland and of all Central Europe. As Poland rushes headlong into further integration with the rest of Europe, now is the time to visit before the tourist hordes (and high prices) arrive. Right now, most tourists are Polish and German. There are also many Japanese and Korean businessmen and their families living there now.
Wroclaw is served by an international airport [http://www.airport.wroclaw.pl/en/index.php]. LOT [http://www.lot.com/] flies here from Warsaw (8 times a day except Sundays when there are only 6 flights), and together with Lufthansa to Frankfurt Main, Munich and Dusseldorf . Jetair [http://www.jetair.pl/] flies to Gda?sk three times a week.SAS [http://www.scandinavian.net/] flies here from Copenhagen and Wizzair [http://wizzair.com/] from London Luton. Ryanair [http://www.ryanair.com/] flies from London Stansted, Liverpool, Glasgow Prestwick, Edinburgh, Bristol, East Midlands, Frankfurt Hahn, Dusseldorf Weeze, Barcelona Girona, Alicante, Dublin, Shannon, Brussels Charleroi, Stockholm Skavsta with fares from __15 one-way all-inclusive. Norwegian [http://www.norwegian.no/] flies to Oslo twice a week.
From the airport, bus 406 operates from the terminal building to central Wroc?aw between 5am and 11pm (schedule: [http://www.wroclaw.pl/zdik/0406/0406t015.htm]). There is also a night bus 249 (tickets: 2,80 PLN; 1,40 with student discount) which operates from the same bus stop but departs only twice during night, at 0.02am and 4.23am.
Wroclaw is a major hub in the Polish rail network, with several trains a day to all large Polish cities (route planner [http://rozklad.pkp.pl/bin/query.exe/en?]). There are about 10 daily departures to Warsaw (travel time varies from 5h by a ''InterCity'' train, up to almost 7h with a ''pospieszny'' (fast) train) as well as quite a lot of trains to Pozna? (from there you can go to Warsaw or Berlin). Several trains a day go to Krakow.
Wroclaw is a stop on the Eurolines [http://www.eurolines.com] international coach network. All international and national buses stop at the PKS Centrum station which is located directly behind the main train station.
To use the system, you must buy a ticket before you board from a ticket machine or any shop with a sign saying "Ruch" or "Bilety". Tickets can also be bought in most newspaper stores.
'''Ticket prices''':
One ride ticket: Normal 2.40z?/1.20z?, students (with ISIC identification) pay half. Express or night bus - 2.80z?. You must validate your ticket on board, or face a 120z? fine if caught by an inspector (100z? if paid within 7 days). Tickets are not time-based or route-based — you must pay each time you enter a different vehicle.
One day ticket (jednodniowy), valid for all lines: 8z?/4z? (urban), 10z?/5z? (suburban).
Period tickets:
7-day in city borders: 26.00/13.00 (only normal lines), 30.00/15.00 (also express)
30-day in city borders: 80.00/40.00 (normal), 98.00/49.00 (also express)
If you travel with large bags (such as backpacks) you must buy a 1.20z? ticket for the bag. Owner of a period-ticket can travel with one child (up to 13 years old) for free on Sat. Sun. and holidays.
It's also possible to obtain a 30-day non-transferable ticket which is a bit cheaper. All prices are listed here (PL): [http://www.wroclaw.pl/m70276]
Watch out! The "bars" listed below are in fact self-service canteens, offering inexpensive and traditional Polish meals. They are a gastronomic and cultural experience. See Bar Mleczny [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bar_mleczny] - literally translating, "Milk Bar". They should be open even at National Holidays. Expect short queues.
'''Bar Mi?''', 48 Ku?nicza Street, 700 ft. north of Rynek (Market Place or central square). M-F 7-18 and Sa 8-17. Offers an ample and diversified menu, including meat-based dishes. Students, staff and professors of the University of Wroclaw usually eat there, together with homeless people, elderly and pensioners. After entering go to the cash desk (at the left corner) and order your meal (Polish only). Turn right, go to the food counter and handle your receipt to the person serving the meals. Mains 1.50-4.50 zl.
'''Bar Bazylia''', Ku?nicza Street / corner of Universytecki Square, 300 ft. after bar "Mi?", inside the building of University's Law Department. Very clean and fast service. Offers a more stylish ambient. Mains 3-9 zl.
'''Bar Mewa''', Dubois Ttreet, 7 minutes walk north from Rynek through University Main Building and Pomorski Bridge. M-F 8-18, Sa & Su 9-16. The cheapest. Offers some dishes only at specific hours: pirogi - 13h, pancakes - 14h, pirogi with cabbage - 15h, potato pancakes - 16h. You pay directly at the food delivery counter (Polish only).
'''Abrams' Tower - Resto Bar and Wine Shop''', 14 Krainskiego Street. The first multi-ethnic kitchen in Wroclaw, with delicious dishes influenced by Mexican, Thai, Indian, Spanish, Middle Eastern, Italian and other cultural traditions relying on authentic preparation and ingredients. Also offered are original Fusion dishes. Situated inside a 13th century tower, it's a bit hidden in a courtyard behind old buildings made in the socialist times but a rare jewel worth the effort to find, an alternative to the crowded city's market square. The first floor has a decor of illuminated wine bottles and ethnic music is also played from Caribbean to gypsy to acid jazz and Latin rhythms. Food is served until late evening and it is one of the few non-smoking restaurants in the city.
'''Amalfi''', Wiezienna Street. The only place in southwestern Poland serving authentic thin-slice Italian pizza from a proper, scorching-hot wood oven. Tastes just like in Rome. About 15 zl for a pizza for one person. Italian owners.
'''Oregano''', Igielna Street. Inexpensive restaurant with pizza and a variety of other dishes.
'''Piramida''', Wita Stwosza Street. Egyptian restaurant. Kitschy interior and big portions.
'''Gruzi?skie Chaczapuri''', Mikolaja Street (nearly adjacent to Market Square), a budding franchise originating from Krakow, serves Georgian food (khachapuri [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Khachapuri]). Try "lawasz z ad?apsanda?em" (dough filled with a tasty mix of tomatoes, bell peppers, aubergines, garlic and goat cheese) for about 15 zl.
'''Mexico Bar''', Rzeznicza Street. A favorite of many Wroclavians. As long as you are willing to eat a somewhat modified version of Mexican cuisine, you should enjoy the large, rich portions at Mexico Bar. You might want to order the "hot" ('na ostro') version of your dish, as the regular dishes are surprisingly mild. This is a small, popular place, so you may have to wait for your seat at the bar.
'''Pod papugami'''. At Rynek, next to Spi? Cellar (see above). Offers good meals and a good selection of salads.
There's quite a significant number of different clubs and pubs in Wroclaw. Most of them are located in the centre of the old town, many good ones however, are situated a few crossings from the Town Square, not within its very borders. The Town Square mostly contains some not very specific, quite expensive restaurants, although it is definitely needed to mention the '''Spiz Cellar''', an interesting mini-brewery with a few tasty kinds of locally made beer and a unique interior design. There are also two disco's quite popular among fans of house/techno music - '''Daytona''' and '''Zwiazki'''. However, pub-wanderers, who want to meet interesting people and/or get involved in some discussions will probably enjoy places situated in some less obvious locations then the very Town Square. Good examples of such places are:
'''Pracoffnia''', 6 Wiezienna st - 1 or 2 crossings north from the central square in Wiezienna street - a pub located in an old medieval prison, consisting of a basement room, overground room and also a small atmospheric yard during warm days. The dominant kind of music is jazz in it's many forms. The interior design is very unique. It consists of many old architectural tools, books and drawings, as well as some old furniture. There seem to be quite many foreign tourists among the visitors of the place although it is quite difficult to find.
'''Mleczarnia''' (pronounced 'Mletcharnya'), 5 Wlodkowica st - a bit further from the Town Square but still not too far, nearby the main courthouse in a quiet street - quite a large pub occupying the basement and ground level of an old fin-de-siecle building. It has a unique dark, cozy, wooden interiors and a specific atmosphere. Music played is quite specific and varies - among the styles played are: Jewish music, jazz, progressive rock, film music and others. There are often some cultural events, like discussion clubs or film projections taking place in the basement.
'''Rura jazz club''', 4 Lazienna st - a must for a jazz enthusiast or someone who wants to get some jazz experience. Probably the oldest jazz club in Poland. Concerts and jam sessions are held there almost every day. It has been visited by many performers famous in the jazz community. It is also a good place to have a beer and meet some people.
There are also clubs dedicated especially to rock music fans, in Wroclaw. Most popular are:
'''Od zmierzchu do switu music club''', 15 Krupnicza st - located opposite to the main courthouse in a basement. You can regularly hear live music there. On Wednesdays there are concerts of young rock bands, on Thursdays there are jam sessions featuring a bunch of resident performers. Their level varies from great to moderate. On Fridays and Saturdays there are rock parties with a DJ.
'''Liverpool''', 37 Swidnicka st - located in the Swidnicka street, about 1/3 way between Holiday Inn hotel and the Town Square - rock/metal/goth club, especially popular among gothic and industrial music fans. Known for its thematic parties held mostly in weekends. The kinds of music played at these parties depend on the certain DJ.
There's also a plenty of other clubs and pubs in Wroclaw. It's a great adventure to explore them because most have their own specific style and atmosphere.
The most popular bars and night clubs are situated in the old town, main square:
PRICES:
Wroclaw, like most of Poland, is a very safe city but you should exercise the usual caution and keep guard of your valuables especially around crowded places or places popular with tourists like the main train station or the town square (Rynek).
Because international tourism has not quite hit Wroclaw yet, English is not as universally spoken as in the tourist areas of Krakow. You'll still be able to get around and pantomime, or find someone who speaks English, but is easiest to know at least a few Polish phrases.