'''Bissau''' is the largest city in and capital of Guinea-Bissau.

Get in

By plane

There are direct flights Lisbon-Bissau with TAP [http://www.flytap.com/] every friday, returning same day. There is a daily Air Senegal [http://www.air-senegal-international.com/] flight from Dakar, Senegal to Bissau and back. The schedule is published on the Air Senegal website.

Get around

Shared taxis are cheap and plentiful. Stop taxis and tell them where you want to go (or tell the passing taxis by pointing), and they will either accept "na bai" (I'm going), or decline if people, already in the taxi, are going to another part of the city. Prices are fixed, and you'll normally not get cheated, except when you're an obvious foreigner and taking a taxi from the airport or Hotel Bissau Palace.

There's a system of prices making every second passenger in a group go for free, example:

1 person 300 FCFA, 2 persons 300 FCFA, 3 persons 600 FCFA, 4 persons 600 FCFA

There are also minibuses "toca-tocas" going on fixed routes, you'll pay 100 FCFA a person for the ride, but the buses are often very crowded!

See

  • '''The presidential palace''' - bombed-out during the civil war, but still standing, though now only inhabited by bats.
  • '''Bissau Velho''' - the old Portuguese colonial centre. Not much life there nowadays, but still a nice place to walk around. Don't miss the '''prison with pink flowers''' painted on its front (At the corner of the fort, close to the harbour).
  • '''Porto Pidjiguiti''' - walk out the little port and talk to the fishermen, watch the pelicans and see the city from a distance. The Pidjiguiti port was the site of the Pidjiguiti massacre on 3rd of august 1959, where police shot down some 50 striking dockworkers. This became the beginning of the active resistance against the Portuguese colonial power. There is a monument shaped as a gigantic black fist commemorating the massacre.
  • '''Mercado de Bandim''' - Bissaus main market.
  • '''Fortaleza d'Amura''' - old Portuguese fort, containing the mausoleum of national hero Amilcar Cabral and tombs of other revolutionaries. Inside is also Amilcar Cabral's car and a statue of him, given by Cuba some 20 years ago, but never raised, hard to explain why. Can be hard to get in, but possible, if you make friends with the soldiers or get a permission.
  • '''Museu Etnografico Nacional''' (National Ethnographic Museum), on the university campus, opposite "Lenox de Bairro". Open mornings only, it has a small collection of Bissau-Guinean wooden masks and statues, baskets, cloths etc. The staff is very helpful and good at explaining the purpose of the different items, and connecting it to traditional spiritual beliefs.
  • Do

  • The '''French Cultural Center''' in the Bayana roundabout often features concerts, movies, dance classes, french classes etc. Programme on their webpage [http://www.ambafrance-gw.org/rubrique.php3?id_rubrique=54]
  • The '''Portuguese Cultural Center''' (next to the Portuguese embassy, behind "Benfica") also hosts concerts, but in slightly less inviting surroundings.
  • '''Swim''' at Bissau Palace (5000 FCFA), Hotel Azalai 24 de Setembro or Campo Sueco (3000 FCFA - somewhat more noisy and crowded, but more African atmosphere).
  • '''Exercise''' on the running lanes or in the gym in Estadio 24 de Setembro.
  • '''Play tennis''' in the tennis club at the Bandim Harbour (close to Estadio 24 de Setembro) or in Campo Sueco.
  • Buy

  • '''Wood carvings''' Try the Centro Artistico Juvenil, close to "Chapa de Bissau" with fixed prices and no need to bargain - or the market in front of Pensao Central (here you'll need to bargain).
  • '''Hand woven textiles''' Good shop underneith Pensao Central selling textiles from NGO [http://www.artissal.org/ '''Artiss@l'''] in Quinhamel - or at the Bandim Market.
  • '''Batik''' Next to the Post Office.
  • '''Cashew nuts'''
  • '''Bissau-Guinean CDs'''
  • '''TINIGUENA''' in Bairro de Belem is an NGO working for sustainable community development, food and income security as well as a greater control over the natural resources on which the local population is depending. It has a little shop selling high-quality wall-calendars and postcards with Guinea Bissau motives as well as locally produced baskets, marmalade, rice, spices, palm oil etc.
  • '''Ponto de Encontro''' has a large selection of quality DVDs, that can be ordered from Portugal and picked up the following Friday.
  • Eat

    Restaurants

  • '''Recidencial Coimbra''' has a good buffet every night at 20.00 - 7500 FCFA including starters, main courses, desserts, wine and water.
  • '''Hotel Bissau Palace''' [http://www.bissaupalacehotel.com/en/html/0102_restaurante.html] - probably the best restaurant in town. Has a swimmingpool that non-guests can use for 5000 FCFA (eat lunch at the pool) - and wireless internet.
  • '''Hotel Malaika''' [http://malaikahotel.com/ing/index.php] - has a nice restaurant inside, but also a roof top restaurant for drinks and fast food style meals.
  • '''O Bistro''' - Belgian owned restaurant next to Mavegro, delicious food.
  • '''Hotel 24 de setembro''' [http://www.azalaihotels.com/septembre.php] - good restaurant, and excellent service, but somewhat overpriced.
  • '''Papa Louca''' Favorite place for pizzas and shawarmas. Very fair prices!
  • '''Le Grimaldi''' Restaurant of Hotel Kalliste in the Bayana roundabout, very tasty food and nice atmosphere.
  • '''Centre Culturel Franco Bissau-Guineen''' open for lunch, has a nice courtyard for eating your morning croissants and espresso, or a good lunch.
  • '''Bate Papo''' very good for breakfast with croissants, pastries and sandwiches, coffee, natural juices etc. Located next to "meteorologia".
  • '''Dom Bifana''' good steak-restaurant next to the parlament, having a live gazelle and a crowned crane in the restaurant.
  • '''Dragon''' Chinese Restaurant uphill from the Bayana roundabout. It is a nice change, once you get tired of portuguese and libanese style food.
  • '''Fernandas''' in Santa Lucia - famous for her Bica (Carpe Rouge).
  • '''Campo Sueco''' in Alto Bandim - good for lunch and a swim in the pool, while you wait for the food.
  • '''Ta Mar''' in Bissau Velho - nice place with outdoor serving in the street in the dry season.
  • '''Pensao Central''' - Fixed menu with soup, fish, meat and dessert for about 5000 FCFA for lunch or dinner
  • '''A Padeira Africana''' - Portuguese style food
  • '''Ponto de Encontro''' - same owner as "A Padeira Africana" - good for a beer and a snack on the sidewalk
  • '''Restaurante bar maroquino "Sara"''' - Moroccan restaurant close to Aparthotel Lobato, good fish, shawarma etc.
  • '''Lenox - Bairro de Ajuda''' Popular local place with internet cafe, loud music, beer, shawarma, pizza, goats meat, sandwiches and other fast food.
  • '''Lenox - Luanda''' Same concept, but without the loud music.
  • '''Phoenicia''' Libanese place for good sandwiches, shawarmas, burgers, pizzas, softice and wireless internet. No alcohol sold.
  • '''Ali Baba''' - libanese fast food and soft ice, no alcohol.
  • '''Bayana''' - a classic, nicely located, but food is nothing special.
  • '''A Creola''' - next to Bayana.
  • '''Magui''' - senegalese place above the closed cinema.
  • '''Monte Carlo - Hotel Jordani''' - food is nothing special.
  • '''Dom Bifana - airport''' located in the very airport, it is fancy looking, but not good value for money.
  • '''Adega do Loureiro''' on a sidestreet between Baiana and Benfica. Nice place with good and innovative portuguese food, but the service varies quite a bit.
  • '''Casa Santos''' in Santa Luzia
  • '''Cantinho da Mana M'Butcha''' Rua Domingos Ramos
  • '''Ruby''' Restaurant of the ApartHotel Ruby, next to the UN building
  • '''Chez Ami''' Rua Eduardo Mondelane
  • Supermarkets

  • '''Darling''' - many Spanish brands, good value. One in the center, one in Estrada de Bor and one on the Airport Road, opposite Mercado de Bandim.
  • '''Bon Jour''' - tends to be somewhat expensiver than the others - with a big section of tableware, kitchen utensils, linen etc.
  • '''Mavegro''' - Dutch supermarket, northern european food, wall-calendars and postcards from "Tiniguena", creole books and cartoons, historic books on Guinea Bissau.
  • '''Bodem''' - supermarket with a big section of shoes and clothes.
  • '''Mini Marche Alvalade''' - opposite Dragon chinese restaurant - is the best place in Bissau to buy cheese and frozen meat.
  • Drink

    There are quite a few discos and nightclubs, one nightclub popular with expats is '''X-Klub''' [http://xklub.blogspot.com/]. <!--THIS HOMEPAGE IS IN BLOG FORMAT, HOWEVER IT'S THE PAGE, THE CLUB USES AS ITS OFFICIAL HOMEPAGE--> The club has pool tables and a small dance floor.

    Discos include Plack, Bambu, Sonhos, Orio etc.

    Sleep

    Hotels in Bissau are generally overpriced. There's hope that prices will lower as new hotels are about to open - the Hotel Kalliste (Former Casino/Galeao), Hotel Libya (Former Hotel Hotti Bissau/Sheraton) and Grande Hotel are all currently undergoing renovation (2007).

    Best (and most expensive) hotels in Bissau would be:

  • '''Bissau Palace'''[http://www.bissaupalacehotel.com/]
  • '''Hotel Malaika''' [http://malaikahotel.com/ing/index.php]
  • '''Recidencial Coimbra''' [http://www.residencialcoimbra.blogspot.com/] <!--THIS HOMEPAGE IS IN BLOG FORMAT, HOWEVER IT'S THE PAGE, THE HOTEL USES AS ITS OFFICIAL HOMEPAGE-->
  • '''Aparthotel Terracos Ruby'''
  • '''Azalai Hotel, 24 de Setembro''' [http://www.azalaihotels.com/septembre.php]
  • There are also cheaper hotels such as the: Pensao Central, Pensao Creola [http://pensaobissau.com/], Aparthotel Lobato, Aparthotel Jordani, Aparthotel Sol Mar and the Ta Mar. Beware of the Aparthotel Lobato, where the price in the morning can be significantly higher than the price they told you when you checked in.

    Cope

  • Brazilian Embassy [http://www.mre.gov.br/portugues/enderecos/embaixadas_detalhe3.asp?cmpNoPosto=Embaixada%20em%20Bissau]
  • Chinese Embassy [http://www.fmprc.gov.cn/eng/wjb/zwjg/2490/2493/t14423.htm]
  • Cuban Embassy
  • French Embassy [http://www.ambafrance-gw.org/]
  • Portuguese embassy [http://www.ipad.mne.gov.pt/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=53&Itemid=84]
  • Russian Embassy [http://www.russianembassy.net/iservice.nsf/1a8c422889db615cc32567d90050dd41/6779ce31aeca0df8c32567f4003bab4d!OpenDocument]
  • Spanish Embassy (opening) [http://www.maec.es/es/MenuPpal/Paises/ArbolPaises/GuineaBissau/Recomendaciones%20de%20viaje/Paginas/recoGuinea-Bissau.aspx]
  • US Embassy [http://www.state.gov/p/af/ci/pu/c3284.htm]
  • British Honorary Consul, Mavegro Int., CP100, Bissau [http://www.fco.gov.uk/servlet/Front?pagename=OpenMarket/Xcelerate/ShowPage&c=Page&cid=1007029395231&a=Collection&aid=1013618515233]
  • Guinea Bissaus main hospital is '''Hospital Nacional Simao Mendes''' ... But if you really need to go to the hospital, probably you should try and get your insurance company to pay for you at least going to Dakar.

    Pharmacies are on every street corner in Bissau, pharmacies '''Rama''' (there are three), '''Rina''' and '''Amilcar Cabral''' are usually well-stocked and the indian owners speak english.

    Get out

    '''Ilheu do Rei''' - a nice get-away for a picnic if you're in Bissau on a longer term. Go to Porto Canoa (behind Mavegro and the cemetery) and ask around for a canoa to take you to the island, it takes about 10 minutes and you should not pay much for the return ticket (1000 FCFA?). Once there, check out the abandoned peanut oil factory, and continue through the little village down to a little "beach" (ask people where it is), from where you can turn left and walk along the coast, if you don't mind climbing a little over trees and rocks. For once there is no mangrove, so you can actually get the feeling of strolling along the coast.

    '''Volta de Bissau''' Starting at the Porto Canoa, this track goes around Bissau, passing rice fields and small suburbs, the big cemetery in Antula, Sao Paulo etc, and eventually you'll end up at the airport road close to Hotel Bissau Palace. A nice sunday walk, some 4 hours, not all stretches are suitable for vehicles.

    '''Hotel Marazul''' [http://www.marazulpeche.com], in Quinhamel. Makes a fine daytrip for swimming and lunch, and maybe a fishing trip. In the town of Quinhamel there's also an interesting weavery, "Artissal" [http://www.artissal.org/], producing handwoven textiles.

    '''Hotel Rural de Uaque''' [http://www.hotelruraldeuaque.com/] is also recommendable, if you need to escape from Bissau for a day, swim and relax.

    '''Praia Suro''' in Prabis is the Guineans favorite weekend get-away in the dry season. The beach is a bit muddy, but there's always good ambient with music, people dancing, barbecuing, playing football and swimming. Just follow Estrada de Bor out of Bissau, continue when it turns into a dirt road, and eventually you'll reach the beach (might be a two-hour drive).