A local entrepreneur has wisely opened a shop with gatorade and snacks about 10 minutes before you find another shop. Apologize to the nice lady for having already bought your snacks at the first store. Just past a gate is the top and you are rewarded with the first views of the Incan site and a nice bench to eat lunch at. Hike another hour or so and stake out your campsite. Explore the lower site that day and then see the rest of the sites on the following day. Unless you are in great shape, the relaxing day of exploring the site is necessary and must be done to truly enjoy the Site.
There is an 11 sol fee (may 2006) that someone will collect from you. There is generally no tourism and the park worker becomes your personal tour guide. Much of the site is rebuilt poorly. Concrete and markings on the stones are eyesores. Whenever you decide to leave, turn back for cachora or continue down the trail into another city below, another two days is required.
Total time with a 50lb pack, no guide, no mules: 5 days. Excellent scenery and a great alternative to the Incan trail at Machu picchu. You may see only three other tourists in the five days on the trail and at the site.