'''Esplanade''' is the heart of Kolkata. It consists of the region just north of the Maidan and includes Dalhousie Square with all its colonial British buildings. The district takes a visitor back to the Raj-era with nostalgic overtones. Many of the city's important buildings are located here.
Get In
By bus
Esplanade Bus Station is the city's main station for inter-state and inter-city buses.
'''Bangladesh'''. Tickets for buses running to the border and Dhaka can be reserved at '''Shyamoli Yatri Paribahan''', 6/1 Marquis St (parallel to and one block south of Sudder Street, and just west of Mirza Ghalib St, next door to DHL), 2252 0693. 2-3 buses per day leave this office on Tu, Th and Sa, usually at 5:30AM, 8:30AM and 12:30PM. The fare is Rs 86 to the Haridaspur border post (about 2.5 hrs). All the way to Dhaka (with a bus change at the border) will cost Rs 550 (about 12 hrs). Beware that several travel agencies around this area also sell tickets for these buses, but at very inflated prices. At the border it's best to change money on the Indian side, but count it carefully and double-check the math on their calculator. On the Bangladesh side you can catch a flat-bed cycle-rickshaw for Tk5 for the 2km trip to the bus stand for onward travel - or you can walk, but expect the hopeful rickshaw-wallahs to follow you at least half way!
'''Bhutan'''. Tucked away in the corner of the bus station is a small Bhutan Government kiosk selling tickets for buses running to the Bhutanese border town of Phuentsholing. Buses depart at 7PM on Tu, Th and Sa and the 18 hr journey costs Rs 300.
By metro
You have 3 stations to choose from.
''Esplanade''. Located on the Northern tip of Chowringhee, near the Oberoi hotel. Convenient for visiting the Birla museum.
''Chandni Chowk''. Good access to Dalhousie Square.
''Central''. Located just outside College Street and the Calcutta University.
See
Calcutta was once nicknamed the City of Palaces. This comes from the numerous palatial mansions built all over the city. During the British colonial era from 1700-1912, when Calcutta was the capital of British India, Calcutta witnessed a spate of frenzied construction activity of buildings largely influenced by the conscious intermingling of Gothic, Baroque, Roman, Oriental and Islamic schools of design. Unlike many north Indian cities, whose construction stresses minimalism, the layout of much of the architectural variety in Calcutta owes its origins to European styles and tastes imported by the British and, to a much lesser extent, the Portuguese and French. The buildings were designed, and inspired by the tastes of the English gentleman around and the aspiring Bengali Babu (literally a nouveau riche Bengali who aspired to cultivation of English etiquette, manners and custom as such practices were favorable to monetary gains from the British). Today many of these structures are in various stages of decay. Some of the major buildings of this period are well maintained and several buildings have been declared as heritage structures. Conservation efforts are often affected by problems of litigation, tenant troubles, ownership disputes, old tenancy laws and a lack of funds.
'''Indian Museum''', J.L. Nehru Road. Tel:''+91 33'' 2249-5699/9902, Fax:''+91 33'' 249-5696. [http://www.indianmuseumkolkata.org/] Established in 1814, this was the first such museum in Asia. Among its famous collection is the urn that held the ashes of the Buddha (though this is generally not on display), an Ashoka pillar (the three-lion symbol from which became the official emblem of the Republic of India) and numerous rare antiques. Closed on Mondays. Admission: Rs 10 (for Indians) Rs 150 (for non-Indians).
'''BBD Bagh'''. Government House, Calcutta, built in the early 19th century, is modelled on Kedleston Hall. The House was once the seat of the Viceroys of India; later, when the Government moved to New Delhi, it became the residence of the Governor of Bengal, a function that it fulfills to this day. While the basic features of Kedleston have been faithfully copied (the Palladian Front, the Dome etc.), Government House is a much larger, three storied structure. Also, the Government of India evidently did not have the funding constraints that forced the Curzons to leave their house incomplete: Government House has all four wings originally conceived for Kedleston. So today, a 'complete', brick built Kedleston, on a much grander scale, is located in its acres of gardens at the heart of the Calcutta business district.
'''Mahabodhi Society of India''', 4A Bankim Chatterjee Street (near College Street). Tel''+91 33'' 2219-9294. A small, but interesting Theravedan Buddhist temple located in an historic building. There is a library and shrine room on the second floor. Meditation classes are held every 1st and 3rd Sunday of the month.
'''Bauddha Dharmankur Sabha''', 1 Buddhist Temple Street (near the Indian Airways head office). Tel:''+91 33'' 2211-7138. A Buddhist monastery established in 1892 and run by the Bengal Buddhist Association. The distinct red building mostly consists of a school and a guest house. There is a very small Buddhist shrine tucked away on the 1st floor.
'''General Post Office''' (GPO) Building
'''The Reserve Bank of India'''
'''The Raj Bhavan''' (the Governor's Residence), [http://rajbhavankolkata.gov.in].
'''Zoological Gardens''', '''Calcutta Race Course'''
'''National Library''' [http://www.nlindia.org]
'''Vidyasagar Setu''' (popularly known as second hooghly Bridge).
'''Eden Gardens'''. These pleasant gardens are located to the north of the Maidan and are the venue for international cricket matches. They were designed by Emily and Fanny Eden in 1841. At the northern corner lies the '''Burmese Pavilion''' set in a small lake, which was brought from Burma by Lord Dalhousie in 1854.
Do
Buy
'''Sir Stuart Hogg Market''', more commonly called '''New Market''', is a good place to sample Indian sweet delicacies and generally soak up the atmosphere of Kolkata. There are also a few handicraft stalls inside. The market is located in a large red brick building on Lindsay Street (the road parallel with Sudder Street to the north). You'll know when you are getting close to the market when approached by the very persistent touts employed by the market handicraft stalls.
'''Park Street''' is a busy and popular shopping district with upscale shops and bookstores and some international brands such as Levi's, Nike and Adidas among others.
'''Oxford Book Store''', 15 Park Street, ''+91 33'' 2229 5455, [http://www.oxfordbookstore.com]. A large and well organized bookstore. Great selection of books on India and by Indian writers. Check out the discount books and cafe (Cha Bar - see Drink section) on the second floor.
'''Handicrafts''' Jawaharal Nehru Street between Sudder Street and Surendra Road, has several stores selling handicrafts. The largest is on the corner of Surendra Nath Banerjee Road.
'''Free School Street''' (Mirza Ghalib Street) is famous for its second hand bookshops and second hand record stalls. Rummage through the LPs for sale on the street and you'll find some real gems from the Jazz Age!
'''Eagle''', 12/2 Undsay Street (in front on New Market). Tel: ''+91 33'' 9802-36663. A good place to pick up Indian art movies.
'''Music World''', 18G, Park Street. Good place to pick up audio CDs and DVDs - everything from Indian classical to Hindi pop and independents to Bollywood.
Eat
Budget
'''Blue Sky Cafe''' Just off of Sudder St. The food is cheap, the place is clean and service is incredible. Great if you are on an extended stay as they offer both Indian and some Western food. You will not find nicer waiters anywhere. Try the fresh squeezed juices.
'''Jyoti Vihar''', Ho Chi Min Sarani, tel: ''+91'' 33 2282 9791. Offers clean, tasty and cheap South Indian food. It is completely vegetarian. It is on the same street as the US Consulate.
'''Nizam's''' in New Market, a Calcutta institution for over a 100 yrs, is an unpretentious place that is famous for 'Muslim' food. It lays claim to be the place where Kathi Rolls were invented and is still considered to make the best ones.
'''Chung-Wah''' on Chittaranjan Avenue is one of the oldest and best places to sample Indian/Chinese food.
'''Fresh & Juicy''', 2/1 Sudder Street. Offers tasty and cheap Indian, Italian, Chinese meals and Western style breakfasts.
'''Khalsa''', Madge Lane (''on left side when entering Madge Lane from Sudder Street'') offers excellent and cheap Punjabi food.
'''Zurich''' on Sudder Street is popular with Westerners - the food is cheap, though nothing special.
'''Curd Corner''', next to Zurich on Sudder Street. This small hole in the wall eatery is quite an institution in the area, and a generation of travelers have gorged themselves on the fresh and thick yoghurt. Curd with muesli and mixed fruit is a favorite. Check out the filter coffee and 'mock' cappuccino.
Mid-Range
'''Kathleen's'''. An old favorite on Free School Street (Mirza Ghalib Street) with a pastry shop and an ecelectic mix of cuisines (dominated by Indian and Chinese).
'''Flury's''', 18 Park St, ''+91'' 2229 7664, [http://www.flurysindia.com]. Tu-Su 7AM-8PM, M 10AM-6PM. A popular and stylish cafe serving a good variety of baked goods and various coffees, sandwiches and entrees. A great place for breakfast or lunch. Baked goods Rs 30-50, drinks Rs 30, meals Rs 100-300.
'''Kwality''', 17 Park Street, (''next to Oxford Book Shop'') has been around for years with sharply dressed waiters serving tasty tandoori and north Indian food to well-off locals. Mains from Rs 100. Try their Chhola-bhatura.
'''Peter Cat''', 18 Park Street, ''+33'' 2229 8841. Very popular for its ''chello kababs'', but apparently outside of that there service has not received the best reviews. Serves Indian, tandoori and Continental fare.
Drink
The '''Indian Coffee House''' is a venerable old establishment run by the Indian Coffee Workers Co-op Society. The high ceilings, peeling paintwork, skylights and workers in traditional uniform create an image straight out of a 20 or 30s movie. In addition, the coffee is good and cheap. 1F, 15 Bankim Chatterjee Street (off College Street). Tel:''91 33'' 2241-4869
'''Fruit juice''' is available in the New Market area. Try some of the spicy fruit juices.
'''Cha Bar''', 2nd floor, Oxford Book Store, Park Street (see Buy section). A modern and chic cafe with a great selection of teas, including herbal, smoothies and coffee. A large window offers views of street life below, while the books provide a literary dimension. Cha Bar is an excellent place for a budding writer or a day dreamer.
'''Handicrafts and Coffee Shop''', 1F., 44 Free School Road. A bright and cheerful coffee shop that uses proceeds from sales to fund projects offering vocational training to street kids. Great atmosphere, good cakes, but unfortunately only serving instant coffee. Handicrafts are made by former street kids.
'''T3 Tea Table Shop''', 57A Park Street (corner of Free School Street), A venerable institution dating back to the days of the Raj - heavy, sticky cakes are a specialty. When the Flurry's was renovated and the menu modernized a few years ago, this place was set up by the same owners to preserve some of the old favourites and ambiance from the 'old' Flury's.
'''Rallis''', J.L. Nehru Road. Excellent sherbets.
'''Broadway Hotel''' [Ganesh Chandra Avenue]. Recommended for a glimpse of a bygone era. Also one of the few places which serves beer with a plate of sliced cucumber. Ganesh Chandra exit at Chandni metro station.
'''Streetlife''', entrance to Park Hotel. The universal colors of chic decor, black and red, are used extensively to give this cafe a warm but modern feel. Streetlife has a good selection of coffees and healthy snacks opposed to what the name might make you think. This cafe is about as far from representing Kolkata street life as you could possibly get. Makes a good alternative to the ubiquitous Baristas and Coffee Days.
Sleep
Budget
Hotel Maria. /1 Sudder Street. 91 33 2252 0860. 0/02/09. 0/03/09. s 250. Offers basic rooms with attached bathroom.
Paragon Hotel. Stuart Lane. ff Sudder Street. 91 33 2252 2445.
Hotel Modern Lodge. Stuart Lane. ff Sudder Street. 91 33 2252 4960. s 100-250. Not very modern, but cheap and fairly clean. Rs 150 for single with shared cold-water bathroom.
Salvation Army Guesthouse. udder Street. orm for Rs 70/night. Bag storage for Rs 5/bag/day until 7:30PM.. CLOSED
Mahabodhi Society of India. A Bankim Chatterjee Road. ear College Street. 91 33 2219-9294. s 250 room with private bathroom, Rs 150 for room with communal bathroom. The guesthouse is part of Buddhist Monastery, and although simple has a lot of character.
Bauddha Dharmankur Sabha. Buddhist Temple Road. ear Indian Airlines head office. 91 33 2211-7138. s 200 for two bed room, Rs 300 for three bed room - all rooms have shared bathroom facilities. A guesthouse in a Buddhist Monastery - quiet and central location, though there is a school in the same compound.
The Howrah Hotel. ,Mukhram Kanoria Road,Howrah - 711 101=. djacent to the Howrah Railway Station and next to St.Aloysius Church & School. 91 33 26413878/28490240. s 125 for a room with common bath, Rs 280 for double bed with attached toilet, Rs 430 for 3 and 4 bedded rooms, for 24 hr bag storage for guests who have left the hotel Rs 5/bag/day up to 9:30PM the same day.>
Mid range
Hotel Jaapon. 0F Mirza Galib Street. lso called Free School Street (at the end of Sudder Street. 91 33 2252 0657, 2252 0658" email= ". ingles Rs 650, doubles Rs 1200. A bright and cheerful hotel with excellent service. All rooms have attached bathrooms (with good plumbing), cable TV and A/C. Rooms on the right directly face a broad tree that allows a rich dappled light to fill the rooms - especially pleasant at sunrise.
Astoria Hotel. udder Street. 91 33 2252 9679. storia@hotmail.com. s 650-750. Offers clean and large, albeit drab, rooms with private bathrooms.
Fairlawn Hotel. 3/A Sudder Street.. 91 33 2252 1510 / 8767" email= "fairlawn@cal.vsnl.net.in. ttp://www.fairlawnhotel.com/index.html. ingle:USD 50 (full board) USD 45 (with breakfast) Double/Twin:USD 60 (full board) USD 55 (with breakfast). a relic of the British raj and oozing with charm and character.
Hotel Royal Palace" address=30F Mirza Ghalib Street. lso called Free School Street. 91 33 2252 5280,2252 4178. s 350-750. Clean and large AC & Non-AC rooms with private bath, color TV, STD/ISD
YMCA. 5 Jawaharlal Neru Road. ear corner with Sudder Street. 91 (33) 2249-2192. howringheeymca@yahoo.com. ttp://www.calcuttaymca.org. on A/C single Rs 600, with A/C Rs 850 . An extremely drab and dark hotel that appears not to have received a lick of paint since its founding in the mid 19th century. However, in someways, that is the hotel's distinctive charm, and so it may appeal to strict traditionalists. There is a simple restaurant on the second floor. The food is nothing special, but the balcony offers a great view of the buzzing city below.
Splurge
Oberoi Grand Hotel. 5 Jawaharlal Nehru Road (Chowringhee Road). 91 (33) 2249 2323" email= ". ttp://www.oberoikolkata.com. 375-$1375. One of the great hotels of the Raj, the Grand has been the last word in luxury for all of its 125+ years. A surprisingly quiet oasis in one of the busiest streets in the world, stay here if you can afford it!
The Park Hotel. 17 Park Street. 91 (33) 22493121. 91 33 22494000 " email= ". ttp://www.theparkhotels.com. The unassuming exterior hides an elegant and homely interior - a very pleasant and stylish hotel with Indian features.
Cope
'''A&A Travel Zone''', 13 Chowringhee Lane (enter from Sudder Street on corner with Fresh & Juicy). Tel: ''+91 33'' 2217-2792. e-mail: travel_zone@yahoo.co.in - An extremely efficient and helpful travel agency.
Contact
'''Hotline Services''', 7 Sudder Street, (''near the Astoria Hotel, at the back of the parking lot between Roop Shringar clothing shop and Metro Beauty Parlour. Identified with a large illuminated sign in red'') has a room jam packed with high speed computers, and charges Rs 15/hr. They also sell CDs of various styles of Indian music for around Rs 150/each, and have a selection of hand-woven material and cotton clothing from all over India. Hotline also provides a coffee and snack service.
There are other smaller internet cafes on Sudder Street such as '''Net Freaks''', but they are often very busy.