'''Harbin''' (__?? H?'?rb?n) [http://www.harbin.gov.cn/english/index.php] is the capital of Heilongjiang Province in north east China.
Understand
Harbin is China's northernmost major city, with a population in excess of 10 million, and over 4 million in the city center alone. Historically, the city has had a lot of Russian influence, in particular after the Russian Civil War of 1918, when White (Monarchist) refugees escaped the newly formed Soviet Union. The influence remains clearly visible in the building styles and foods. The city was founded in 1897 as a camp for Russian engineers surveying the Trans-Siberian Railway. Labor demands brought in a collection of outcasts from across Russia, Poland and even from within Manchuria. The city eventually was captured by the Japanese during World War II and later captured by the Chinese in 1946. Once nothing more than a Russian-built outpost of the railway, Harbin has managed to become a major player in her own right as well as capital of Heilongjiang Province.
Recent History
Northeastern China was originally built up as an industrial center using pre-existing Soviet and Japanese factories. By the 1980s these outdated and inefficient factories could not keep up. To further complicate matters, starting in the early 1990s, large portions of China's state owned enterprise workers were laid off. Thus, like many other cities in this region, contemporary Harbin is struggling with an aging work force and unemployment. Private enterprise is mostly centered in the service sector, retail, restaurants, etc. with most large scale enterprises still state owned. However, the province has thousands of state-owned enterprises up for sale, and many have been purchased since the late 1990s. Numerous universities in Harbin also play a vital role in the economy in education, research and through their subsidiary companies.
In 2005 there was a major pollution spill on the Songhua river.
Climate
Harbin is infamous for its very cold winters ? it is at the same latitude as Montreal, and winter temperatures as low as -38.1__C have been recorded. Bring more clothes than you will think you will need so that you can layer. Average daytime summer temperatures are in the mid 20s(__C) with a few weeks reaching low 30s, while the coldest part of winter averages a chilly -17__C.
The winter can become dreary if you are a longterm resident, as the entire city uses coal for heat the air quality rapidly decreases during these months.
''Harbin can be a great place to visit in the summer.'' The weather is cool and it seems to be perpetually breezy, and most of Harbin's streets are lined with trees. Because the city is so cold all winter, life almost explodes and people crowd the streets until late at night eating kabobs, playing poker, and drinking Hapi (Harbin Beer). This is a great escape from the heat of Beijing. A trip up to the border regions this time of year would be nice as well.
Get in
By plane
'''Harbin Airport''' ({{IATA|HRB}}) has services to Beijing, Changsha, Chaoyang, Chengdu, Chongqing, Dalian, Fuzhou, Guangzhou, Haikou, Hangzhou, Hong Kong, Jiamusi, Jinan, Kunming, Nanjing, Ningbo, Qingdao, Shanghai, Shenyang, Shenzhen, Tianjin, Urumqi, Wenzhou, Wuhan, Xiamen, Xian, Yantai, and Zhengzhou.
International services are available to Khabarovsk and Vladivostok, Russia, Niigata, Japan, Seoul, South Korea and Los Angeles, USA.
The airport is not located in the city center and is about a 45 minute drive outside of the city in the middle of soybean fields. If you are flying out of Harbin most ticket agencies can arrange transportation to be included in the cost of the ticket. Another option is to take a taxi, which costs around __100-120. Always negotiate this price before the ride, though. Drivers will make their meters read more for the ride otherwise or try to get you to pay for the highway ticket in addition.
The airport is small, but there is a small restaurant and snack bar selling local delicacies, Chinese and western food, and a nearby hotel if you happen to get stranded.
By train (Haerbin Zhan)
Taking a train to Harbin is very easy and most are overnight trains, including a new rapid service from Beijing. Different ways to travel include chair, "hard berth", or "soft berth". Hard berth compartments generally have six sleeping bunks which open onto the main passageway going through the car; soft berth usually has a four person compartment, softer mattresses, and a compartment door you can close. Hard berth is roughly 55% of the price of a soft berth ticket. The bottom bunk is where all your neighbors will want to sit and eat with you when you are not sleeping.
The main station is located at Tielu Jie, between Nangang and Daoli districts. When leaving the train, make sure to keep your ticket stub as you need it to exit the train station.
When you get out of the train station there are literally dozens of taxis waiting. Make sure to take a cab that is in the official waiting line and have them turn their meter on. In some cases these drivers have been waiting all day here and want to get as much money as they can.
There are several hotels right around the square in front of the station and most are fairly cheap. There is also a KFC and a Russian restaurant (open 24 hours) called Breznev that has decent food.
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By car
Harbin is connected to the rest of China via the China Highway 102 via Changchun. Harbin is also connected via road to Inner Mongolia, Russia, and Jilin.
By bus
The main long-distance bus station (Changtu Keyun Zhan) is located across the square from main train station.
The majority of cities in Heilongjiang can be reached via bus.
'''Beijing''' - takes about 13 hours
'''Mudanjiang''' - takes about 4 hours
'''Qiqihar''' - takes about 5 hours
'''Changchun''' - takes about 4 hours
'''Jilin''' - takes about 6 hours
'''Dalian''' - takes about 10 hrs
'''Shenyang''' - takes about 8 hours
'''Wudailanchi''' - takes about 6 hours
'''Yanji''' - takes about 9 hrs
Get around
Taxis are inexpensive and convenient. However, always ask them to run the meter (qing3 da3 biao3) instead of attempting to negotiate a price in order avoid possible conflicts.
Taxi drivers in Harbin are known to be reckless — running red lights, driving into oncoming traffic, etc. — so buckle up!
If you plan to live in Harbin for a while, it's recommended that you figure out the basic bus routes around your home. Note that during the winter months the buses stop running earlier. Hawkers on the street will sell a map of greater Haerbin including bus routes for about 5RMB.
Here is a link to a '''map''' [http://www.maps-of-china.net/city/harbinm.htm] for reference and orientation.
See
'''Russian Buildings'''. Harbin's old quarter which covers a wide area of the city near the Songhua River is still today mostly made up of buildings that were constructed by the Russians at the turn of the 19th century. Most of them are built in baroque or byzantine style with spires and cupolas and interesting shades of yellow, white, green, or red. While St. Sophia is known as the main architectural attraction to the city, areas of the city such as Harbin's old quarter are made up of buildings that have been left untouched since the Russians left. While most of these streets are fairly decrepit and in need of repair, at least the area has been free from the wrecking ball like many other historical districts in China. Only due to the fact that Harbin has yet to attract the world's investment.
'''Zhongyang Dajie''' (_______X). Literally meaning "central avenue". This cobblestone lined street is a pedestrian only street that could serve as a perfect remnant of the bustling international business activities at the turn of the 20th century. The 1.4-km long street is a veritable museum of European architectural styles, including Baroque and Byzantine facades, Jewish architectural wonders, a Russian resteraunt, French fashion houses (Fake Chinese Brands), American snack food outlets (Mcdonalds and KFC and a Chinese owned "American Bar"), and a Japanese restaurant. It runs from Jingwei Jie to Stalin Park at the river. In winter, one can walk out onto the ice or take a dog sledge or horse sledge ride. It is the prettiest site in Harbin as far as the city itself is concerned, however, if you go mid-day during the weekend be prepared to push through the crowds. Pretty much closes by 10 p.m. (Weekend nights included)
'''Flood Control Monument''' (_h_^?__?_O__) Built to commemorate the several floods of the Songhua River. It is at the riverside end of the Zhongyang Dajie.
Stalin Park. uns parallel to the Songhua River. (_z______?) Long tree covered walkway that stretches the city-side banks of the Songhua river, a really nice and pleasant walk.
'''St. Sophia Cathedral''' (?____?____) located in Daoli District on the corner of Zhaolin Street and Toulong Street. One of the few still standing Orthodox churches in the city. It is now converted into a Harbin Museum of Architecture. Inside there are exhibitions of many photographs from old times. Definitely worth going into, however, if you are used to European Churches do not expect the quality.
'''Harbin Jewish New Synagogue''' (__??_____V____) has been restored and contains an impressive collection detailing the history of Jews in Harbin. There were 20,000 at one point and the synagogue (25 RMB, 162 Jing Wei Jie) is well worth a visit. Further up Tong Jiang Jie is the old synagogue that is now a hotel and cafe, with the old Jewish school next door -both worth a detour to look at from the outside.
'''Unit 731 Museum''' (_N?__?_n731__??__) A grim reminder of what happened during the Japanese occupation to over 2,000 prisoners of war. The museum, located out in the suburbs, tells the story of these individuals although its displays are limited. It's about an hourlong bus ride from the city center (Bus 338 or the slower 343 from near the train station on Tielu Jie -get off at _o?_H and walk around the corner to the right), but be warned: the museum closes at 4pm (last entry is at 3pm), is closed from 11am-1pm for lunch and the museum is completely closed on Mondays.
'''Siberian Tiger Preserve''' (_V____?) This is without a doubt Harbin's "must see". Just a 40 kuai cab ride from the city center (Don't have them wait for you, you will always be able to find a ride home) Not for the faint hearted or obsessive animal lovers. There are literally hundreds of tigers in multiple huge pens. For just 70 kuai you can ride in an open bus with metal caging around it. The ride is about an hour long and while on the bus you can purchase strips of meat (10 kuai) to hand feed the tigers. Live chickens (40 kuai), pheasants (100), ducks (100), goats (600) and even cows (somewhere around 200 USD).
Zhaolin Park. ouyi Lu and Shangzhi Jie. (______?) During the winter this park houses ice sculptures for the festivals, but during the off season, it's a pleasant stroll as well
'''Dragon TV Tower''' (?__). Tallest steel structure in northeastern Asia. Only built for the Chinese need of having something as the biggest and the best. Somewhere along the way they forgot to add any pleasant looking qualities to it. There is a revolving restaurant on top and views of the city. You can walk outside at the top and even strap on a harness for a thrill.
'''Old Quarter''' A section of the city just west of Zhongyang Dajie is still dominated by Russian buildings built around the turn of the century. Not well maintained but an interesting walk and you can maybe find Russian antiques in some of the thrift stores.
'''Grape Kingdom''' (________). A live operating "organic farm" that has expansive grape and corn fields. In the fall you can enter the fields and pick as many fresh grapes as you want and watch how the Chinese process corn. Located near the Tiger Park.
'''Sun Island''' (__??). Park located on the banks of the Songhua River and can be reached by ferry boat (5 rmb). Pleasant to stroll during the warmer months and on the weekends newly married couples can be seen taking pictures. In the winter it becomes part of the snow sculpture festivities. However, as with everything in Harbin, the park itself is still very chinese with a cage full of squirrels, a petting deer area (just have to buy them some food), go carts, a pond that is just full of turtles, and newly weds sporting bright colored dresses.
Gondola ride over Songhua River. ccess point is the Sun Island Park. 5-50RMB. A nice way to work your way back from Sun Island in a gondola car that takes you over the banks of the Songhua.
'''Temple of Heavenly Bliss''' (??__) Large and active Buddhist temple on Dongdazhi Jie (?_____X), in the eastern part of the city.
Heilongjiang Provincial Museum. 0 Hong Jun Jie. (_K?_]______?) Built in 1922 and claims to have over 14,000 pieces of relics, but it's not well kept.
Do
'''Harbin International Snow and Ice Festivals'''. By far Harbin's biggest claim to fame, these month-long festivals are held yearly from January 5th until warm weather erodes the constructions (exact dates vary yearly).There are two distinct festivals on display in three separate locations: The Snow and Ice Festival (_u_______E) and two versions of the Ice Lantern Festival (_u___X). The former is famous for massive and beautifully carved sculptures of snow while the latter is famous for large ice buildings and statues constructed with lights inside that make them glow. The Snow Festival is located on Sun Island, across the river from the main city sites. The Ice Lantern Festival operates in a city park that is centrally located (Zhaolin Park) as well as at an out-lying assembly ground along the Songhua River (not far from Sun Island). Be forewarned that the Snow Festival closes before sunset so arrive early while the two Ice Lantern Festivals are best after dark so arrive just before dusk. There is a separate admission fee of \100-150 for all three (students get in half-price).
'''Sauna/bath houses''' (_______S). Literally all over the city. Many local people don't shower in their own apartments but these public shower houses instead. There are several upscale ones around the city such as Shanghai Tan (___C?) and Jiannianhua (___N?) where you can relax in a '''sauna,''' get an hour long '''massage,''' eat at a all you can eat '''buffet''' and '''sleep''' for 24 hours in their comfy beds for around \40-90.
'''Harbin International Beer Festival''' (__??__??__?). [http://www.hrbbeer.com] Held in late August of every year the city takes a break and honors the cities most famous export "Harbin Beer" for a week. A whole public square is cordoned off and there are stages that host music concerts, dance contests. Most of the beer drunk is the local Harbin brew, but there is a tent for international beers. In the summer of 2005 a number of the foreigners in the city assembled a "drinking team" and ended up getting in a drunken brawl with some locals and got hauled away by the police.
Harbin Summer Music Festival. _??_V____??. ttp://www.harbinsummermusicconcert.cn/. Held every two years in July (Next will be in 2008), this festival is organized by the city and brings in famous Chinese bands for free concerts held in the city square. In 2006 for the "year of Russia" there were various Russian groups in attendance and a concert that featured over 1,000 pianists playing at once.
WB International Movie Theatre. _?__??_e__. hongyang Dajie Wal-mart. 50 plus for tickets.
Exercise and Fitness
'''Skiing''' Yabuli (?_z__) is one of the largest skiing areas in China and venue for the 1996 Asian Winter Games. Located within 2 hours of the city.
'''Yangge Traditional Chinese Dance''' You'll notice that during the warmer months (and even sometimes in the winter) there will be legions of senior citizens out on the street doing a group dance complete with drumming and costumes. This is called ''niu yang ge'' and if you are adventurous just jump in and dance along!
'''Bowling''' is very popular among the Chinese in Harbin. Most of the larger hotels have a bowling alley. There is also a bowling club located behind the Sino Way hotel with 2 separate floors and pool tables as well.
'''Swimming''' Believe it or not, people actually swim in the Songhua during the winter, but after all the pollution spills, it's probably not even safe to swim during the summer. If you are looking for a clean pool to swim in, try the pool at the Shangri-La Hotel or Heilongjiang University.
'''Golf''' (__?_v__?). Yes Harbin has a golf course in the development zone, and is \300 per round and \20 to use the driving range. Obviously not open during the winter_B Located directly behind the Heilongjiang TV Station (_K?_]??__), it's the giant glass building with a oversize red glass diamond.
'''Haerbin Grecism International Health Club''' (__??_P?__?___g??__). 95 Hayao Jie (________?_H95__), one of Harbin's nicest health clubs that includes a full pool, American work out equipment, sauna and hot tub, indoor track and cafe. Membership is expensive.
'''Fitness Ark Health Club''' (__?___M___g??__). 3rd floor of Hate Mall, 118 Xidazhi Jie (__?_________X118______), located right near HIT, this is a great and cheap health club. A number of foreign students and teachers hang out here.
Work
For foreigners, pretty much the only employment is teaching English, where depending on your qualifications and experience, you can make anywhere from \2,000 to \10,000 a month. There are positions at both public and private schools. If you are in the city and don't already have employment check out the bulletin board at Hamama's Kofi House.
There are some foreign enterprises in the city such as Budweiser Beer, John Deere, and a large Brazilian Embraer aircraft assembly plant south of the city, but these companies rarely hire from inside China.
Learn
Harbin is the center for higher education in Northeast China, and has several leading universities, with the most famous being Harbin Institute of Technology. The universities make up a large portion of the cities economy and employ a large part of the population. Many of these schools were founded by the Russians and still retain the architectural charm of their predecessors. There are also several medical universities in the city that support the local hospitals.
Studying Chinese
Harbin is famous for its standard Mandarin pronunciation. It can be a pleasant and cheap alternative to Beijing for the study of Mandarin Chinese. Most universities have lots of Korean and Russian students. There are a couple cheap western cafes and a small but lively foreign student social scene at the local expat hangouts on the weekends, such as Blues and The Box. Many schools in Harbin offer Chinese language programs:
'''Harbin Institute of Technology''' (__??_H?___w) [http://studyathit.hit.edu.cn/hypx.asp] About 300 foreign Mandarin Chinese students a semester. Good facilities. Large Russian and Korean population. Home to the '''American CET Harbin program''' [http://www.cetacademicprograms.com] with 5-30 students a semester, which is probably the best program in Harbin but expensive — US$10,000 a semester — and the students can only speak Chinese while they are in Harbin.
'''Harbin University of Science and Technology''' (__??___H___w) [http://www1.hrbust.edu.cn/zuzhijigou/hustfao/fao/lhlx.html] Nice campus.
'''Harbin Normal University''' (__???_____w) [http://www.hrbnu.edu.cn/gjjl/gjjlgk.htm]
'''Haerbin Engineering University''' (__??_H_____w) [http://www.hrbeu.edu.cn/xxgk2/jigousz/wsc/lhlx.htm]
'''Heilongjiang University''' (_K?_]___w) [http://www.hlju.edu.cn/international]Claims to be the biggest Chinese learning center in the province.
'''Northeast Agricultural University''' (?_k??___w) [http://gjxy.neau.edu.cn/wglxs.asp?typeid=37&BigClassid=60&newsid=513] dairy and food research center
'''Northeast Forest University''' (?_k__?___w) [http://www.nefu.edu.cn/ico/english.htm]
'''Harbin University of Commerce'''(__??__?___w)
Also, the city offers the opportunity to learn Chinese one to one:
'''Mandarin Workshop''' [http://www.1to1mandarinworkshop.com]Encourages a complete immersion in the study of Mandarin, thereby imparting a unique understanding of the need for fluency and nature of a subject while building skills in listening, speaking, reading and writing.
Studying TESOL
'''Will-Excel TESOL Institute''' [http://www.WillExcelTESOL.com]
The Will-Excel TESOL Diploma program is a combination of a 160 hour TESOL course and a 6-month work-term.
Studying other subjects
If your Chinese is good enough you can enroll in most of the schools in Harbin. Many Pakistani students study Medicine at the Heilongjiang Medical University. Tuition is cheap.
Buy
Imported Russian goods of all types and qualities are available from tourist shops around town. Look out for vodka, Russian dolls, chocolate and much more. The local Chinese appeared to have picked up some aspects of Russian cuisine, with western style bread and sausage available around town. Beyond this, the shopping is much like any other city in China.
'''Zhongyang Dajie''' The main shopping district is along Zhongyang Dajie where there is a Wal-Mart near the flood control monument and another shopping district along Guogeli Jie where you can find clothing, food and more. Along this street are huge new shopping malls such as the Euro Plaza, Parksons, and Lane Crawford that carry international brands and are expensive. There are Nike stores, KFC and interesting Russian thrift stores. The street is lined with beer gardens during the summer.
'''Guogeli Dajie''' (___e_____X). Harbin's second biggest shopping district after Zhongyang Dajie (bigger in size). The area around here is dotted with Russian buildings and HUGE shopping complexes. At night there are numerous night markets, a small scale Russian church where people dance, and a small and lively "bar lake."
'''Indian Street''' (___x_____X). A commercial side street located right off Guogele Dajie. If you're facing the East, it's past the giant castle and on your right. Used to be complete with Indian thrift stores, clothing, and food, but now offers only Russian items, including dolls, pocketknives and toys.
Money
Most ATM's around the city work with international cards, such as the Bank of China and the China Merchants Bank.
<listing name="Western Union" address="Located in almost every China Post ____?__ ''zhongguo youzheng'' and Agricultural Bank ???_s ''nongye yinhang'', look for the yellow western union sign" phone="" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url="">__??__ ''xilian huikuan'' in Chinese</listing>
<listing name="Bank of China Heilongjiang Branch" address=" No.19, Hongjun Jie" phone="0451-3633518-8111" email="" fax="0451-3646455" hours="" price="" url="">This is the only bank in the city where you can exchange Travelers Checks.</listing>
Unique Items
'''The Hongbo Shichang,''' at the intersection of Dong Dazhi Jie and Hongjun Jie, is an enormous underground shopping centers -- if they don't have it, you don't need it.
'''Harbin Sex Store/Museum''' on Guogeli Dajie sells all sorts of sex materials and toys. Kind of unexpected.
'''Biggest DVD Market in China''' A DVD market bigger than Blockbuster video is located in the basement of the Jiaohua Electronics Market (____?_q_s?). All DVD's are __5 - __6 and arranged alphabetically. Across from the Harbin Institute of Technology's main gate (___H____??__).
Clothing
'''Sofia Jintaiyang Fashion City''' (____?____?___i__) around the corner from St. Sophia Church (_______n_i_X) is Haerbin's answer to Beijing's Xidan. Multi story fashion market lined with small stalls selling the hottest fashions from China at cheap prices.
'''Hongbo Century Square''' (?____?__?) not to be confused with the underground market, this is a huge mall in the basement of the Harbin exhibition center. There is also a Carrefour, McDonalds, KFC, Pizza Hut, and a fried chicken chain from Texas. There are daily fashion model shows.
'''Chinese Military Surplus Clothing''' Looking for a comfy cold weather jacket like the Chinese wear? There are a number of stores around the city. One is towards the end of Xidazhi Jie near the Harbin Institute of Technology.
'''Western Brands''' The shopping malls at Hongbo and Zhongyang Dajie have everything from Gucci, Brooks Brothers, and Zegna to Timberland and Adidas. Items are internationally priced.
Everyday Needs
'''Walmart and Carrefour''' the Walmart is located at the end of Zhongyang Dajie by the river. Its just like any other Walmart. There are several other Walmarts and Carrefours located in the city.
'''Watsons''' right on Zhongyang Dajie this small convenient store has every health care product you can think of including western deodorants and shampoo.
'''Metro German Supermarket''' (____?) near Maidelong Chaoshi (____________?_H?_H_X1__). German run supermarket with the cities biggest selection of western food, a huge imported wine, alcohol and beer section, cheeses, pastas and ice cream. It's all there.
'''Scholars Bookstore''' (_w_{?_X) Harbin's largest bookstore is located near Heilongjiang University on Xuefu Lu (_w_{_H).
'''Flower, Bird and Fish Market''' (__??_H?_i____?) Miaopu Road (_______c___X), huge assortment of fresh plants, birds and tropical fish.
Eat
If there is one thing special about Harbin, it has to be the food. Taking influences from Russia, Mongolia, Korea and of course China, the food in Harbin is much "heartier" than you can find anywhere in China, and stews and other ''duncai'' are popular dishes. Because the winters are long here you'll find less exotic ingredients and heavy use of vegetables like cabbage, potatoes, cucumber and corn. Chinese BBQ or ''shaokao'' and Hot Pot is also equally popular in Harbin and is a must eat once you get into town.
One thing you will notice is that Dongbei people love to eat, and its not just for the food, but for getting all their friends together at one table and drinking/eating the night away. Thus this city is dominated by restaurants with large tables that seat groups of people. Besides small food stalls, only near the Universities and busy shopping areas will you find cozy little restaurants. In Harbin, liveliness (''renao'') attracts customers and much as the food; some restaurants are so loud you may need earplugs!
Budget
Street Snacks
thumb|Street food
'''Hotpot and Harbin beer''' (__? hu?gu? and __???__ Haerbin pijiu) can be found anywhere in Harbin.
'''Assorted Meats on a Stick''' (___X chuan'er) sold on every street, try asking for grilled bread buns (_l?? kao mantou), its really good. Finish everything off with a egg and tomato Gala Tang (soup) No more than 10__ for 6-7 kabobs and soup.
'''Harbin Smoked Sausage''' (__????) A treat only known to Harbin, you see stores selling it everywhere, it is REALLY good.
'''Russian Breads''' lots of Bread and pastry stores around the city, including Zhongyang Dajie.
'''Haws''' hawthorn fruit stacked on sticks and served covered with a sweet sauce.
'''Lamb''' with spices grilled over coals served with sesame flat bread. 5__ will buy you a good meal from the nice Uighur guys (from Xinjiang province) on a street between Hong Bo Shopping Center and Guogeli Dajie.
'''Harbin Spring Rolls''' (_t? or __?) a tasty wrap of potato strips, cucumber, sausage and egg all with a spicy sauce. Sold on the street or in most markets (even Walmart) for 2__ - 5__. If you want a real spring roll experience go to Lao Changs on Zhongyang Dajie (mentioned below).
Restaurants
'''Oriental Dumplings King''' (?__?_q__) 38 Zhongyang Dajie (_____________X39__), unbelievable dumplings at a great price.
'''Old Sandpot House''' (_V______?__) 98 Zhongyang Dajie (_____________X98__), delicious small Dongbei snacks like dumplings, grilled breads.
'''Little Seven Fish''' (____??) 81 Hongwei Lu (___O___G?_H81-4__), spicy grill Sichuan style.
Western
'''Hamama's Kofi House''' - A little Cafe near Harbin Institute of Technology run by a Papua New Guninean and his Taiwanese wife. Great and ''cheap'' western food like burgers, milkshakes and an omelet breakfast.
'''KFC and McDonalds''' There are literally dozens of KFC around the city and the McDonalds near Hongbo Guangchang is open 24 hours.
Mid-range
Chinese
'''Xiang E Meishi''' (_______H) 140 Guangmang Jie (__?_______X140__), great Hunan and Hubei style restaurant in a nice atmosphere.
'''Hans Beer BBQ''' (__?_z?__?__) 254 Zhongshan Lu, near Wal-mart (__?_____R_H254__, ____??) Great draft beer that is all you can drink during lunchtime. The food is Chinese BBQ with assorted and spiced meat kabobs.
'''Big Harvest''' (__?__) 283 Yiman Street __?_______X283__ Traditional Donbgei cuisine in a unique enviroment. The only tea in the house is made from wheat.
'''Fucheng Hotpot''' (________) 47 Wenchang Jie (__?_______X47__) Great Hotpot restaurant always bustling with Dongbei atmosphere.
'''Old Changs Spring Cakes''' (_V___t?) 178 Zhongyang Dajie (_____________X178__) Pancake like food stuffed with vegetables and meat, a staple of the northeast and tasty as hell!
'''Wuji Rib House''' (???__?__?) 208 XiDazhi Jie (?_________X208__) and 57 Gongcheng Jie (__?___H___X57__) Dongbei style ribs that are simply amazing! You eat them with your hands and are given plastic gloves to keep things clean. The other dishes are great too and its always packed and full of energy.
'''Daquan BBQ''' (___S??) 86 Beixing Jiaoyu yuan (_k?____?86__) the locals call this the best BBQ joint in town. Always packed, really good.
'''Xiaozi Zai Xianxin HK Cafe''' (__?__?_V_h_`___`?) 350 Dongdazhi Jie (?_____X350__) Harbin's trendiest restaurant in terms of design and the people who go there. Fairly good HK style food.
Korean
'''Qianlima Baihe Liaoli''' (____?_S______), 777 Xianfeng Lu (__?____?_H777__), affordable Korean food in an upscale environment, packed with Chinese families and businessmen out on the town for a dinner
'''Gaoliyuan''' (__??), a chain found all over Harbin that is consistently good.
Western
'''Marhaba Arabian''' (??___b), near Harbin Institute of Technology on Hanguang Street 1-19. This is a great mom and pop sized restaurant which has some low and medium priced dishes. If you don't know Arabian food, the dishes are similar to many Indian and Lebanese dishes. They also have hookahs with flavored tobacco if desired.
'''Cafe Russia'''(_I__?___`?), near the Flood Control Monument of Zhongyang Dajie. The owner is half Chinese, half Russian, and has created a fantastic atmosphere that feels like a high-class cafe in London or Paris. Elegant furniture, tasteful music, a working grandfather clock (with chimes) and a display to commemorate one of the last White Russians who lived in Harbin make this a place well worth visiting. Service is good too. The name in Chinese is 'Luxiya' i.e. Lucia -> 'Rossiya' (Russia).
'''Pizza Hut''' (_K?_q), Zhongyang Dajie near the Flood Monument. Real pizza. Another Pizza Hut is on Guogeli Dajie.
'''Katusha'''. A genuine Russian restaurant right beside the Flood Monument of Zhongyang Dajie. Its owners are from Yakutsk and most patrons are Russian. It can be a problem if you can't read Russian or Chinese but if you can, you can get some of the best Russian food available in China, not to mention genuine bread and butter imported from Russia.
Splurge
Western
'''Shanggrila Hotel Buffet''' upscale hotel dining with a huge assortment of western foods. Managed by a western head chef. Around \150 - \200 per person. The quality of this buffet is reasonable. Look out for the live silk worms in the chef station.
'''Holiday Inn Buffett''' also known as "Little Brazil" (__?_______b_t___`?), 90 Jingwei Jie (______??_X90__) same as above but around \100 per person.
'''Portman's''' (_g_______`?), 12 Xidazhijie right off of Hongbo Square (__?_________X12__), mentioned in almost all of the guidebooks but its really nothing more than a Chinese version of western food. You are better off going to Hamama's or a Russian cafe. However they do have steak, fillet mignon, and goose liver pate, if you want to spend the money.
Japanese
'''Japanese Teppenyaki''' (__??__? jingqiao tiebanshao) 93 Hanshui Lu (__?__?___H393__) ''expensive'' Japanese BBQ where you are seated in private rooms and real Japanese cook your food right in front of you! Meals start at \200.
'''Upscale Sushi and Tempura''' (??___{____) 458 Hanshui Lu (??__?___H458__) Another but less expensive Japanese restaurant. Full menu of sushi, tempura, Japanese curry etc. can be had here. Seating is in cozy bamboo paper rooms with heated seats! Atmosphere is very good. You can order affordable packages at around \100 per person that includes all-you-can-drink Kirin beer.
Thai
'''Thai Restaurant''' (_V?____?___H_`?) 183 Changjiang Lu across from the Dragon tower (?_]_H183__) Thai dishes cooked by Indian chefs. You can buy alligator meat here and listen to a singing Thai dance troupe.
Chinese
'''New Heaven Food City''' (_V_V_n_S____?_H) 311 Hongqi Dajie (?_____X311__) ''expensive'' \400 per person, extravagant. Maybe a place to close out a business deal.
'''Tiantian Fish Village''' (_V_V?__) 2 Gongcheng Jie (_______H___X2__) ''expensive'' upscale Chinese seafood dining. You can mingle with Harbin's moneyed and enjoy exotic fish. When you walk in you can pick which fish you want from the giant tanks.
Drink
Just because Harbin is below freezing a good amount of the year, doesn't mean it's devoid of a nightlife. In fact, Harbin is one of the more "rowdier" cities in China. Just don't expect Shanghai or even Beijing "quality" establishments. Most places in Harbin have puke stains on the toilets that are months old. With a good amount of foreigners living in the city studying and working, the weekends are always bustling around 2-3 locations such as Blues, The Box, Pacers, or the small bars around the Universities. Dongbei people are ''reqing'' (?___j_@or very lively and seem to drink with almost every meal! Often times at restaurants you'll see drunk men singing away and then lighting up their cigarettes to signal the night is coming to an end. And of course what would be better than to spend the wee hours of the night singing away to the tune of Titanic and Michael Jackon at one of the KTV's that can be found at almost every street corner!
In Harbin, people often start off the night at a cheap ''shaokao'' or Hotpot restaurant washed down with 1.5rmb bottles of Hapi. After a long dinner its usually to one of Harbin's clubs or bars to spend the rest of the night. If you are not a fan of the drinking scene, Harbin may not be for you as there isn't much else to do. That being said, there are dozens of small bars and a few cafes, so if you are not one for dancing and loud discos there are plenty of options.
Some non-drinking activities include bowling, pool, or a tea house.
Clubs
Many discos that cater mainly to Chinese have table minimums. That is, each table has a different minimum purchase to sit there and you must purchase at least that much as soon as you sit down. They won't trust that you will eventually purchase enough over the course of the evening. Some even have the price of the table on a tent card sitting on the table. You can try and get around this sales tactic by saying you want to just have a look around (wo yao xian kan kan) and hope that they forget about you.
'''The Box''' (BOX______?) 82 Xidazhi Jie _______X82__, current expat hangout of Harbin. Join the debauchery on the weekends.
'''Babyface''' Youzheng Jie and Hongjun Jie intersection (__?__?___X_a??_X____) the newest addition to Harbin's club scene its nothing like its sister in Beijing or Shanghai, seems to have lost its popularity to Tanghui, lots of rich people. A Long Island is 40 kuai. Not much dancing.
'''Kiss Disco''' 150 Dongdazhi Jie (?_____X150__) The biggest disco in Harbin, can fit a couple thousand people, lots of young people. If you enter, you will be the only foreigner. Can be fun but there is a Chinese mafia presence here. Expensive drinks, beers are 25+. Wed is ladies night and it is packed
'''SOS Club''' (______???__) 110 Zhongshan Lu (___R_H111__) currently the most popular disco with the Chinese. Plays Hip Hop.
'''Banana''' (__?__??_X?_Z?_X_n____?) In the basement of the Sino-Way hotel, expensive, smallish, and pushy waiters that make you buy expensive drinks. Overall, not fun.
'''Blue's''' (_z?_z__?) 100 Diduan Jie (_n_i_X100__) everything that is Harbin, Russians, Mongolians, Turks, Canadians, Brazilians, Koreans. Frequent staging ground for fights between Koreans and Mongolians or Russians fighting with Russians. Friday nights 10:30pm and afterward get really crazy when about 80% of Harbin's international students head out to Blues to party. Also, at 11pm you can buy a bottle of Vodka for 10 kuai, but its devil water from Anhui has made many people go nuts and dance on the pole for hours. During the week it's full of Chinese.
'''CoCo Club''' Changjiang Street and Yushan Street intersection (?_]_H_^___R_H__??) Newly opened flashy disco.
'''New Las Vegas''' (_V_f_z?___z__?) Fushun Tiantian Hotel (__?_V_V_____X) out in the development district (kaifaqu), its not big but not small, lots of dancing, drinks are expensive, lots of flashing lights, usually dead after 11:30pm.
'''Pacers''' (?_s____?__?_`?) 102 Xidazhi Jie (_______X102__) Full of the seediest foreign teachers and Russians, a big drug scene, really sketchy foreigners. Scantily clad dancers on poles.
'''No. One Disco'' Pearl River Hotel Zhujiang Bingguan (___]_H___]??) Another big flashy disco as big as Kiss, lots of go-go dancers who are also prostitutes. Pushy bartenders who don't let you sit down without buying a drink. Can be packed sometimes. Worth a try.
'''Jinhao Disco''' (______?) 161 Heping (Lu _a___H161__) one of the oldest discos in Harbin, kind of run-down now, frequent bar fights. As the cab drivers say, "Don't go there, that's where the poor people go."
'''Yes''' (___z) near Blues, yet another flashy disco with pounding techno; it's okay.
'''__??______?__???__''' (___________X21__) A large club with lots of singing and performances. Mostly tables but there are people dancing.
'''Dijie Manyao Bar''' (___X__??) 2 Manzhouli Jie (?_F___X2__) Another bar with scantily clad dancers
'''Camp David''' (__??), Guogeli Da Jie, looks like a giant castle, used to be the expat hangout in Harbin before Blues. Full of people nonetheless.
'''Guang Zai''' (Near Yi man Street) Frequented mostly by young people-- atmosphere is good.
Bars
Most bars in the city are clustered around the universities and tourist districts. The Development Zone has some bars as well but they are more expensive.
'''Harbin Institute of Technology vicinity''' (_{?____). The campus of HIT is surrounded with a number of small and cozy bars. HIT itself has a number of foreign teachers and hundreds of foreign students. Some notable bars are '''Red Rose''' (??__), '''Sculpting in Time''' (____?__) and the '''HIT Bar'''.
'''Sky Bar and Cafe''' (SKY__?), ??_X107_D. Chill, local hangout for westerners in Harbin city, in the HIT vicinity. Good music. Drinks are reasonably priced (e.g., 10__ for Harbin beer, 16__ for mixed drinks). Great place to meet and chat with some english-speaking locals, who have a lot of useful advice for travellers visiting the city. Open daily around 6pm. Its location is on a side-street west of Guixin Jie (?_V_X), south of Xidazhi Dajie (_________X), next to the railroad tracks.
'''Guogeli Dajie''' (_________X). At the middle portion of this road, there is a small man made lake that is surrounded by 10 or so small pubs and a fountain. During the warmer months this small square is packed with people out for a night stroll and is really lively. This also seems to be a place for the trendy teens and college age kids to hang out. If you continue walking down Guogeli Dajie there are a few more small bars dotting the street. Great for people watching! For about 100rmb you can order a "beer tower" (?____ pijiuta), which is a tall plastic tube with a spigot on the bottom. At the other end of the lake there is a restaurant that resembles TGI Friday's, as besides the name being changed to DJ Friday's almost everything else has been copied. What makes this place really stand out from the real TGI Fridays are the scantily clad Russian dancers.
Near Heilongjiang University (_K?_]___w) right across from the main gate are several small bars and pubs to accommodate the huge Korean and Russian student population.
Teahouses and cafes
There are a number of very nice teahouses in the New Development Zone (??__). Most will rent you a room and will charge by the hour, plus whatever tea you decide to drink. Some of the teahouses are located on Hengshan Lu (_t_R_H) such as _N_@_____O_C _______O.
'''Be For Time''' (__?_____O) 18 RMB all you can eat/drink and open 24 hours. Two locations: 102 Xidazhi Jie, under Pacers near HIT (__?_________X102__) and 2 Linxing Lu (__?____?_H2__)
'''UBS Coffee''' (__???___`?) 186 Gongchang Jie (_______H___X186__) closest thing Harbin has to Starbucks.
'''USA Bucks''' a coffee house on Zhonyang Dajie.
Live music
There is a Jazz Bar on GuogeLi Dajie that often has a piano/sax duo playing, and guitar/vocalists can be found at some of the smaller bars around HIT and Hei Da.
Sleep
Budget
Little Fir International Youth Hostel. _??____?___N__. o. 83 Xuefu Road, Nangang District, Harbin, Heilongjiang Province. 6-451-83005008. Owned by a student in Harbin, this is one of the city's only youth hostels. Neither location nor price are the best - try off-the-street-luguans (__?) if you speak Chinese - and it has a dungeon feel, but it's reliable. English by telephone interpreter.
Harbin Institute of Technology Foreign Students Dorm 6. Gongjian Street, Nangang District, HIT Campus. 50 - \100. There are two foreign students dorms at HIT that may have overnight accomdation. Each room has its own bathroom/TV with good heating during the winter. Can be full during the holidays. Central location with good security. Refused accommodation to non-HIT students in October 2007. No English.
'''Bath Houses''' Almost every bath house in the city has a large room with 50-100 plush beds where you can spend up to 24 hours. You can also lock your belongings in a locker and use their shower facilities, most of them have a all you can eat buffet as well. Total around \50 which just can't be beat. Look for signs that say ____ and make sure its fairly big as the smaller ones will not provide these types of services. When you come in pack light as to not look suspicious. ''This is not recommended for inexperienced travelers and it is highly unlikely any of the service staff will speak English.''
Metro Hotel. ___???. ight next to the Metro market (____________?_H?_H_X1__). 6-10-62979009. 100 - \150. Small motor inn besides the Metro Market. A good 15-20 minute taxi ride from the downtown but Harbin taxi's are cheap, also the Metro has a free shuttle service to Zhongyang Dajie and other locations around the city. Quiet and you can get whatever you need at the market nextdoor.
Mid-range
Harbin Overseas Chinese Hotel. 2 Hongjun Street, Nangang. 0451)3641476. 0451)3623439.
Harbin Modern Hotel. 9 Zhongyang St., Daoli. 0451)4615846. 0451)4614997. Fantastic location, right in the middle of the pedestrian mall of Zhongyang Dajie. Very limited English but quite helpful staff, and the history of the hotel makes it an interesting place to stay. There are old artifacts in the lobby such as old movie projectors and silverware. Rooms are comfortable and range from standard to suites.
Gloria Inn Harbin. 57 Zhongyang Avenue, Daoli. (86) 451-8463 8855 . 86) 451-8463 8533. ttp://www.gloriahotels.com/gloria_en/inn/inn_harbin.asp. GREAT location, right on the main street
Sinoway Hotel (Twin Towers). Yiyuan Street, Nangang. 6-451-86291111. Decent hotel with English-speaking staff right in Hongbo square
Splurge
Shangri-La Hotel. __i___f__?_X. 55 Youyi Rd., Daoli. (0451)4858888. 0451)4621777. By far the nicest hotel in town with good service and facilities, far cheaper than other Shangri La's and offers big discounts most of the year except for the ice festival.
Kunlun Hotel. Tielu Street, Nangang. 0451)3606688. 0451)3600888.
Holiday Inn. _?_______X. 0 Jingwei Street, Daoli. 0451)8422-6666. 0451)8422-1661. Their soft, white sheets and helpful, English-speaking staff make this hotel one of the best places for English language visitors to Harbin.
Friendship Hotel. F????. 63 Youyi Rd., Daoli. 86-451-84880668. 6-451-84617132. ttp://www.hrbyyg.com/. GREAT location, walking distance to Zhongyang Dajie and decent rooms.
</sleep>
Sofitel Harbin. _?_____X. 8 Ganshui Lu, Xiangfeng. 451-82336888. 451-82331818. Formerly ''Singapore Hotel'' (_V_________X) and "Wanda Hotel", this is arguably Harbin's only other 5 star hotel, out in the new development zone, so not your best bet, but if you are in town for business and you are looking for something other than the Shangri-La, this is the hotel for you. Newer facilities may mean better conditions than the Shanggrila.
Victories Hotel. __?_X. 01 Hongqi Street, Kaifaqu. 6-451-81868888. This hotel is billed as Harbin's 3rd 5 star hotel, but most likely it's 3-4 stars. It's also way out at the edge of the city by the exhibition center, but due to this, prices can drop. If you have business at the expo center, this is the place to be.
Contact
Internet
The city is littered with Net bars (__? wangba) that are usually very cheap and do not require I.D at the door like the ones in Beijing. The biggest Internet cafes are near the universities like Harbin Institute of Technology and Hei Da. Be forewarned that sometimes you may have to wait for a computer depending on what time of day it is (5pm-12pm are the worst, school is out) and that the Internet connection can sometimes be down for days at time in various parts of the city. Also, these places are filled with a haze of smoke and Chinese screaming obscenties after they lost a game of Counter Strike or World of Warcraft.
All of the computers are in Chinese language, but still using windows so its relatively easy to use. You cannot print at Net bars. If you are looking to print something try going to a print or copy station — look for the Chinese characters ?__ (fuyin) or ____ (dayin).
Phones
If you are looking to refill the minutes on your China Mobile/Unicom/Telecom SIM card, you might have trouble, as very few locations in the city sell the refill cards. In Harbin, you have to go to an actual store and pay the money to a teller to have your phone refilled and often times you can refill out of town numbers at China Mobile or China Unicom Branches.
Shipping
FEDEX_CDHL and UPS both deliver to Harbin but through Chinese shipping companies.
<listing name="Heilongjiang Datian International Shipping Company" alt="_K?_]___c__???_L_____i" address="232 Hesong Jie, Daoli Disrict (__??_s___________X232__)" phone="0451 - 8489 7599 FedEx Customer Service Line: 800 988 1888 and 400 886 1888" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url="">Main FEDEX agent in Harbin.</listing>
Stay safe
Harbin is less developed than Beijing or Shanghai and public law and order is much the same. People from Dongbei are known to be extremely heavy drinkers and are easily provoked into violent fights if annoyed. While this may not directly involve you, if you are as a foreigner at the scene you could quickly find yourself becoming the next victim. Most trouble that people run into in Harbin revolves around drinking at the clubs in town. Harbin bars can be rough and there are many barfights on the weekends so be vigilant and don't let your guard down. As a general rule of thumb, don't go around stealing the girlfriend of a huge Russian guy or a Chinese mob boss. And don't go out alone!
Fights are common in bars, and there have been reports of stabbings at night clubs. Don't expect the police to come to the rescue or even the bar security.
Dress plenty warm during the winter months in order to avoid frostbite.
As with any city in the developing world, be vigilant with your personal property and watch out for pick-pockets. Places like Zhongyang Dajie can become very congested.
Avoid fish caught in the Songhua River as it was highly contaminated by benzyne in November 2005, which takes years to dissipate.
Avoid going into bath houses and KTV/Bars alone, as you may end up being forced to pay for a bill you didn't order via the threat of force. While the sex industry in Harbin is tamer than it was 10 years ago, it is still very developed and prevalent. If you choose to go into a bathhouse or KTV, be mindful of what you are getting into and leave at the first sight of any illegal activity. While the local police might not care about the Chinese, they tend to hold foreigners to higher standards. People interested in a "massage" with extras should probably avoid doing it in Harbin since it is much more underground and risky than in more developed cities such as Beijing, Shanghai, Nanjing and Shenzhen. Anyone caught in the act may find themselves being overcharged and possibly arrested by the local police.
Hospitals and Emergency Contacts
<listing name="No. 1 Hospital of Harbin Medical University" address="No. 5 Youzheng St Nangang District" phone="+86-451-364 1918, +86-451-360 7924, +86-451-364 1563" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url=""></listing>
<listing name="No. 2 Hospital of Harbin Medical University" alt="" address="No.247, Xue Fu Rd Nangang District 150086" directions="" phone="(0451) 666-2962" url="" hours="" price="" lat="" long="" email="" fax="">All doctors in Department No. 2 can assist foreigners.</listing>
<listing name="Provincial Hospital" address="No. 82 Zhongshan Rd, Xiangfang District Harbin, Heilongjiang 150036" phone="+86-451-566 2971" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url=""></listing>
<listing name="US Consulate Shenyang 24 Emergency Hotline" address="" phone="137-0988-9307" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url=""></listing>
Cope
Harbin is known for its cruel winter weather. Be sure to have adequate clothing and protect the extremities. Gloves, thick socks, scarves, and ear protections are a must.
If you are in Harbin for the long haul, try to get away to somewhere warm during the winter break such as Hainan or Thailand. Warm weather can do wonders for the soul. Also, an excursion to Beijing is a must for anyone staying in Harbin for any considerable amount of time.
Get out
<listing name="Wudalian Chi" address="" phone="" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url="http://wikitravel.org/en/Wudalianchi_National_Forest_Park">Volcanic lake surrounded by forests and small farming communities a train and bus ride away from Harbin. Take the train to Dedu and then a 2 hour bus ride to the lake.</listing>
<listing name="Mudanjiang and surrounding areas" address="" phone="" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url="">This is a short train ride from Harbin and within short bus rides you can reach '''Mirror Lake''', the '''Underground Forests''', and the '''Yabuli ski resort'''.</listing>
<listing name="Zhalong National Nature Reserve" address="" phone="" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url="http://wikitravel.org/en/Zhalong_National_Nature_Reserve">Huge bird preserve near the city of QiQihaer, can be reached by a short 5 hour train ride from Harbin.</listing>
<listing name="Daqing" address="" phone="" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url="http://wikitravel.org/en/Daqing">2 hour train ride from Harbin, this city is home to China's largest oil fields.</listing>
<listing name="Hulunbeier Grasslands" address="Inner Mongolia" phone="" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url="">Take the train to Hailaer and under 12 hours (overnight) you can find yourself on some of the world's biggest grasslands, stunningly beautiful. Summer is the best time to go.</listing>
<listing name="Dalian" alt="" directions="" address="" phone="" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url="http://wikitravel.org/en/Dalian">Dongbei's most modern and cleanest city, right on the coast. A great weekend getaway if you are in Harbin for an extended period of time and looking to catch some fresh seaside air</listing>