The center of contemporary Paris and the site of such landmarks as the Louvre and of the Tuileries and Palais-Royal, the 1st Arrondissement [http://www.mairie1.paris.fr] is full of attractions for travelers of all inclinations, including some of the finest parks, museums, shops, and bars in the city. The 1st occupies the Right Bank of the River Seine and extends onto the western section of the ''Ile de la Cite'' in the midst of the river.

For occupying such a compact space, however the 1st feels remarkably different from one end to the other. The almost incredibly upscale western end of the arrondissement gives way to the hustle and bustle of the big city east of the '''Palais Royal''', and then further east to the pedestrian (and tourist) dominated area around '''Les Halles''' and the (currently shuttered) '''Samaritaine''', where tourists mix with (especially young) Parisiens and Parisiennes in ''huge'' numbers (on the order of 800,000 unique visitors per day according to the Mayor's office).

Understand

Paris was historically centered on the ''Ile de la cite'', but by the time Baron von Hausmann was given the task of carving up the city, the center had shifted somewhat to the previously suburban Royal Quarter surrounding the Louvre and the Palais Royal.

Get in

Travelers arriving at one of the airports will probably get in via the RER-B line at the formidable ''Metro'' station ''Chatelet/Les Halles'', read on for details.

By ''Metro''

'''Chatelet/Les Halles''', the hub for the 1 and D lines is the largest and busiest of all ''Metro'' stations. There exists a total of seven entrances/exits scattered around the eastern end of the 1st Arrondissement, concentrated (not surprisingly) between ''Les Halles'' and ''Place du Chatelet'', and also accessing the basement of the ''Les Halles'' shopping mall itself. If you are in a hurry?or have never used this station previously?it might be better to alight one Metro stop earlier or later. Of course, if you are transferring to or traveling on one of the RER lines, brace yourself. Chatelet/Les Halles is a French equivalent for New York City's Grand Central Station.

Line 1 line crosses travels the length of the arrondissement, arriving from '''Chateau de Vincinnes'''in the east via Gare de Lyon, and '''La Defence''' in the west. Most of the stations are fairly easy to use with the exception of Chatelet/Les-Halles. If you have a choice go for '''Palais-Royale/Musee-de-Louvre''' or '''Tuileries'''.

Line 14 line is the newest metro line, and probably the best way to arrive from '''Gare de Lyon''', and thus from Switzerland or the South of France since it is a fully automated express train. Think of it as a sort of a horizontal elevator. It stops at Chatelet/Les-Halles and '''Pyramides'''.

Line 7 cuts diagonally across from the northwest to the southeast or the other way depending on how you look at it. Entering from the southwest (perhaps '''Gare d Austerlitz''') you'll want to get off at '''Pont Neuf'''.

Line 4 runs north and south through the east end of the arrondissement, mostly under Chatelet. Again, we prefer the '''Cite''' or '''Etienne-Marcel''' stops to the Chatelet madness.

All four RER lines cross the arrondissement and stop at '''Chatelet/Les-Halles'''.

Get Around

Having arrived in the 1st arrondissement walking will most likely suffice for transport. That said, Paris cabs are quite cheap. Still, even they don't have access to much of the carfree eastern end of the arrondissement.

If traveling from east to west by ''Metro'' you are probably best off using any other stations than ''Chatelet/Les Halles'' unless you have to connect there. Although the ''Metro'' trains themselves are fast and frequent, the crowded labyrinth at ''Chatelet'' can make getting ''to'' the trains an adventure.

See

Landmarks

  • Le Louvre. he Louvre. etro: Palais Royal/Louvre. 33 1 40 20 53 17. ttp://www.louvre.fr/louvrea.htm. Open daily except Tuesdays and certain public holidays. Permanent collections 9 am to 6 pm (Wed and Fri til 10 pm). Under the pyramid is open 9 am to 10 pm. The primary landmark of the 1st arrondissement: as well as housing one of the world's great museums since 1793, the former palace offers some dazzling architecture, wide public spaces and the glass pyramid of I M Pei. Of course there's also quite a bit to see ''inside'' the building; see our coverage under '''Museums''' below.
  • Jardin des Tuileries. etro: Tuileries. Originally adjoining the now-disappeared royal palace of the Tuileries, these gardens lying immediately west of the Louvre offer a central open space for Parisians and visitors with semi-formal gardens (an outdoor gallery for modern sculpture), various cafes, ice-cream and crepe stalls and a summer fun fair. The gardens are frequently home to a giant ferris wheel and enclose the ''Musee de la Orangerie'' and the ''Jeu de Paume'' (see below).
  • Colonne Vendome. etro: Opera. The centerpiece of a magnificent 8-sided square first laid out in 1699 to show off an equestrian statue of the Sun King, Louis XIV. The statue was removed amidst Revolutionary fervor in 1792 and replaced in 1806 with the ''Colonne de la Grande Armee''. This was modeled on Trajan's column in Eglise Saint-Eustache. ocated near Les Halles and the Bourse de Commerce. ttp://www.classictic.com/venues/55.html. This massive church is one of the best standing examples of the early Gothic style.
  • Sainte Chapelle. blvd du Palais. etro: Cite. 33 (0)1 53 73 8 51. Soaring stained glass windows beaming ample light onto the rich primary colors of the tile mosaics on the floor, this photogenic church was built by the French kings to house the relics of the Crown of Thorns - far more beautiful than the famous, but gloomy, Notre Dame which is nearby. Make sure you go on a sunny day, as the highlight of this small chapel in Rayonnante Gothic style are the large stained-glass windows which soar up to near the vaulted ceiling. Also of interest is the extremely ornate lower level. If it happens to be rainy or cloudy, give Sainte Chappelle a miss, as the play of colored lights on the floor are well worth the wait for a sunnier day. The chapelle is located inside the Courts of Justice, there will thus be a security check.
  • La Conciergerie. etro: Cite. 33 1 53 73 78 50. ttp://www.monum.fr/. open daily 9.30am - 6.30pm April - September; daily 10 am - 5 pm October - March, entry ?6.10, concessions and guided tours available, under-18s free - the ancient medieval fortress and prison of the city's island, site of some remarkable medieval royal architecture and the scene of Marie Antoinette's imprisonment in the period leading to her execution in 1793 - lots of Revolutionary associations.

    Museums and Galleries

  • Musee du Louvre. lace du Carrousel. etro: Louvre. 33 1 40 20 53 17. ttp://www.louvre.fr/. open daily 10am-6pm, closed Tuesdays and some public holidays, evening openings We and Fr until 9.45pm, 1st Su of the month. Free admission for all, general admission (not including special exhibitions) adults ?8.50, evening openings adults ?6, special exhibition ?8.50; combined ticket (museum + special exhibition) adults ?13, evening openings ?11 ''Carte Musee''. On a par with A number of Paris theaters are located in the eastern end of the 1st. English language productions are not unheard of, but the opera is likely to be in Italian anyhow. Your best bet if you are interested in finding a show in either language is to pick up a copy of ''Pariscope'' which you can find at any newsstand for around 0.50?. There are ticket outlets at '''Forum Les Halles''' (FNAC) among other locations.

    Buy

  • Forum les Halles. etro: Les Halles. Open daily from 9am to 7pm. In the late 1960s what was Paris' primary farmers' market moved out to the suburbs to be replaced by a park above ground, and a sprawling underground shopping center below. The interior design is strikingly period (think ''Logan's Run''). The place is showing its age now, but still draws nearly a half-million ''parisien/ennes'' per day, mostly teenagers. There's a movie theater and a media library too.
  • Rue Montorgueil. etro: Les Halles or Etienne-Marcel. To the north and west of Les Halles almost all of the streets are car-free including this one, on which you can find a wide range of food shops including two great bakers, a fish market, and a bio organic foods store.
  • Le Carrousel du Louvre. A diverse underground shopping precinct adjoining the Louvre Museum. Open daily including Sundays. There is also a direct access into the Louvre.
  • W.H. Smith. 48 rue de Rivoli. etro: Concorde. 33 1 44 77 88 99. ttp://www.whsmith.fr/. Monday through Saturday 9:00am to 7:30pm, Sunday 1:00pm to 7:30pm. The largest English language bookshop in Paris carries many of the newest releases.
  • Colette. 13 rue Saint-Honore. ontact@colette.fr. etro: Tuileries. 33 1 55 35 33 90. 33 1 55 35 33 99. ttp://www.colette.fr/. Monday through Saturday 11:00am to 7:00pm. One of the most interesting shopping experiences anywhere, an eclectic collection of design, fashion, gadgets and music
  • Librairie Galignani. etro : Concorde. 24 rue Rivoli. 33 1 42 60 76. ttp://www.galignani.com. British & American bookshop, specialized in fine arts.

    Eat

    The 1st provides rather a wide range of eating possibilities, considering its central location and overall poshness. A large variety of inexpensive food is sold out of windows and stalls, especially on the car-free east end of the arrondissement near Les Halles. You'll always pay a bit more to sit down, of course.

    On the other hand if you are looking for a nice posh place to take your mom or a date there are plenty, and some of them actually have food that is good enough to be worth the considerable prices.

    Budget

  • La Crypte Polska. lace Maurice Barres. etro: Concorde. 33 1 42 60 43 33. Noon-3pm and 7pm to 10pm. Closed Monday. Believe it or not this little Polish restaurant is in the crypt under the church of Our Lady of the Assumption, and the Catholic-mystic decor alone makes a visit worthwhile. Plus the pirogies are about as good as you are going to find in Paris. Expect to pay 12 to 20? per person for the whole meal.
  • Lemoni Cafe. st, 5 Rue Herold. etro: Palais Royal. 33 1 45 08 49 84. losed Sundays.
  • Universal Resto. ezzanine level, Le Carrousel du Louvre . etro: Palais Royal. 33 1 40 20 04 04. ttp://www.universal-resto.com. aily 8.30 AM - 10.00 PM. ffordable prices starting from 10?. arlest.sa@wanadoo.fr. 33 1 40 20 93 93. A food court where some 13 stalls offer a variety of international cuisine including Lebanese, Mexican, Moroccan, Chinese and Japanese.

    Mid-Range

  • Cafe Marly. 3 rue de Rivoli / cour Napoleon du Louvre. etro: Palais Royal. 33 1 49 26 06 60. Open daily 8 am - 2 pm. Part of the ''Grand Louvre'' redevelopment, Cafe Marly was opened in 1994 and is situated within the balcony on the northern terrace of the Cour Napoleon. Patrons can enjoy the direct views of the Louvre Pyramid whilst sitting back in comfortable chairs, watching tourists stroll by whilst supping on slightly / not outrageously above-average-price brasserie selections (you're paying a premium for the location!)-- ''Especially recommended'' : Sunday morning Brunch! Stunning view in the rising sun.
  • Aux Trois Oliviers. 7 bis rue de Montpensier. etro: Palais Royal-Louvre. 33 1 40 20 03 02. This colorful and non-pretentious restaurant offers a range of dishes from throughout France and around the world. The mojitos are said to be quite good, as is the wine list. There's live entertainment (''chansons francais'') each Friday night. Expect to spend around 15? per person at lunch or 20? at night.
  • Chez Denise. rue Prouvaires. etro: Les Halles. 33 1 42 36 21 82. Tues-Sun: noon-2:15pm & 7pm-11pm Mon: 7pm-11pm This little owner-operated bistro presents traditional French country food in a nearly rustic setting. As such it's not exactly veggie-friendly, but it is open for dinner until an incredible 5:00am. Starters are from 10-12? and main courses are 18-25?, then there's the wine.
  • La Robe et le Palais. 3 rue des Lavandieres Sainte Opportune. 33 1 45 08 07 41. ttp://www.larobeetlepalais.com/. Mon-Sat: noon-14:40 & 19:30-23:00. A small restaurant serving mostly tasty Basque food. Fantastic choice of wines.

    Splurge

  • Point Bar. 0 Place du Marche Saint-Honore. etro: Opera or Pyramides. 33 1 42 61 76 28. Alice Bardet, the daughter of a famous French ''chef de cuisine'', Jean Bardet, has provided a prime example of great French restauranteering for the rest of us as a way of making her own name in the business. She is said to have grown up in her parent's restaurant, and has brought the style, the techniques, and a feeling for quality ingredients along. Lunchtime ''Menus'' start at just 15?, but the prices move toward the splurge category at night when you'll spend around 40? per person ordering ''a la carte''.
  • Maceo. 5, rue des Petits Champs. etro: Pyramides. 33 1 42 96 98 89. ttp://maceorestaurant.com/. What was once just a great wine bar with decent food has become a must-visit restaurant with the addition of star chef Thierry Bourbonnais. The second-empire atmosphere sets the stage for the fantastic food, making this a great value for a not terribly pricey splurge. Starters run 13-18? and main courses are 25-28?. There's even a '''Vegetarian''' menu for around 30?.

    Drink

  • Bar Hemingway. 5 Place Vendome. etro: Pyramides. 33 1 43 16 33 65. 33 1 43 16 33 75. 8.8690130. .3276673. Hemingway tried to drink here once per week even before he made it. Afterwords it was his favorite: when in August of 1944 Hemingway made a booze-powered drive into Paris ''ahead'' of the advancing Free French 2nd tank division it was to "liberate the Ritz", and specifically the bar which was shortly thereafter re-named in his honor. Today the bar is considered by many to be one of the best bars in the world, in no small part due to the bar-tending skills of Colin Field, who creates elaborate cocktails as a fine art, and with the rest of the staff is skilled at bringing his guests together in conversation.
  • Le Comptoir Paris-Marrakech. 7, rue Berger. etro: Les Halles. 33 1 40 26 26 66. 8.8617962. .3435712. A swank drinking and people watching spot on a corner across from the park above ''Les Halles''. There are nice stuffed couches all over the room, and meze snacks are served. The place picks up speed a bit in the evening, attracting quite a mixed crowd.
  • Le Cab. , Place du Palais Royal. 33 1 58 62 56 40. etro: Palais Royal/Louvre. 33 1 58 62 56 25. ttp://www.caberet.fr. Featuring several spaces for divergent tastes, '''the Cab'''aret has an all white Easy-Listener space, a tropical cabana, a gigantic dance floor and more. The sounds vary from hip-hop to house to R'n'B. Expect to pay 8? for beer and 13? for a mixed drink, assuming the bouncers let you in.
  • Cafe Oz. 8, rue Saint Denis. 33 1 40 39 00 18. ttp://cafe-oz.com. You probably didn't think you were coming to Paris to sample Australian culture, but if after a long day of strolling from one end of the city to another you would just like to let go a bit and meet up with some fellow Anglophones then you could do a lot worse than this almost legendarily hard-partying Aussie joint (ask the neighbors). Warning: as with other Aussie places in Paris for some reason, weekend nights here tend to bring out hoards of young single Frenchmen looking to chat up some (any) visiting anglophonette. This has been known to lead to, um, confrontations. ~7? Pints.
  • Juvenile's. 7 rue Richelieu. 33 1 42 97 46 49. Nice wine + tapas bar ''cum'' wine shop : nice food, nice wines from around the world, & you can buy a bottle to take home if you like it!
  • Willi's Wine Bar. 3 rue des Petits Champs. 33 1 42 61 05 09. ttp://www.williswinebar.com. 20.50-?35.00. It's actually a restaurant and is more upscale than 'Juveniles', serving good food and good to great bottles of wine with a focus on the Rhone valley, but including many from Burgundy, the Loire, as well as Italians and "Atlantic crossing" Califorians. The dinner menu by chef Francois Yon Great won the "Bib Gourmet 2009" award, and there are cheeses & deserts (yummy crumble)) for after. Reservation recommended.

    Sleep

    Some of the most opulent hotels in the world are located either in or very close to the 1st arrondissement, and there's some choice in the mid-range. Budget travelers, on the other hand are probably better off in other, less central parts of town.

    Budget

  • Centre International BVJ Paris-Louvre. 0 Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau. etro: Louvre. 33 1 53 00 90 90. 33 1 53 00 90 91. 8.8625381. .3410622. With beds starting at 26? this is just about as cheap as it's going to get in the 1st. If you are here to study the art at the Louvre, and want to stay focused it has a location which can't be beat, just across rue Rivoli.
  • Hotel de Rouen. 2, Rue Croix des Petits Champs. etro: Louvre. 33 1 42 61 38 21. ttp://www.hotelderouen.net/. oubles start at 55?, singles at 45?. Breakfast is 6?.. 8.8643861. .3404551. eservation@hotelderouen.net. 3 minutes walk from the louvre.
  • Hotel Saint-Honore. 5 Rue Saint-Honore. etro: Louvre. 33 1 42 36 20 38. ttp://hotelsthonore.com. 8.8611083. .3433014. This is as cheap as it gets for a hotel in this most central of locations, very close to the Louvre. The place was renovated in the last few years, so the comfort level is pretty good considering it hasn't received a star rating yet.
  • Hotel Montpensier. 2 Rue de Richelieu. 33 1 42 96 28 50. ttp://www.hotelmontpensierparis.com/langues/FrenchHotel-English/pages/. 33 01 42 86 02 70. 8.8643457. .3363679. Another semi-cheapie right in the middle of everything.

    Mid-Range

  • Hotel Victoria Chatelet. 7 Avenue Victoria. etro: Chatelet. 33 1 40 26 90 17. ttp://www.hovicha.com. +33) 1 40 26 35 61. 8.8580327. .3460262. A cozy, competitivly priced 24 room hotel with a friendly Art Deco atmosphere. It is located next to the Chatelet Theatre in the very centre of Paris across Notre Dame. It is close to Bus, Taxi, Metro and RER stations: Chatelet les Halles, as well as three nearby monitored parking garages. Basic rooms start at 89? and double at 90?.
  • Hotel Louvre Bon Enfants. otel le Loiret. , rue des Bons-Enfants. etro: Palais-Royal. 33 1 42 61 47 31. ttp://paris.parishotels.com/Hotel_le_Loiret_star_en.html. 8.8627944. .3381080. Most reviewers give the hotel formerly known as Loiret very high marks for cleanliness and comfort, but the real draw is the location: only steps from the ''Palais Royal/Louvre'' stop on ''Metro'' Line 1. Apparently the construction site across the street is quite active during the day, so perhaps it's not a good place for the jet-lagged. Single rooms start at 90?, with doubles around 110?.
  • Hotel Britannique. 0 Avenue Victoria. etro: Chatelet. 33 1 42 33 74 59. ttp://www.hotel-britannique.fr. 33 1 42 33 82 65. 8.8583295. .3461341. Anglophiles in Paris could do worse than to stay at this most Anglophile of French hotels. The location is good, at the very east end of the 1st, within an easy walk of Notre Dame, Les Halles, and above the central hub ''metro'' station. Basic rooms start at 130?, 157 for a double.

    Splurge

  • Hotel Vendome. , Place Vendome. etro: Pyramides. 33 1 55 04 55 00. 8.8670031. .3287060. Occupying a building which was once the site of the Embassy of the Republic of Texas the Hotel Vendome is one of the most exclusive addresses anywhere, much like the neighboring '''Ritz'''. The 29 rooms each have been decorated in the style of a different period, such as Classic, Baroque, or Deco. Singles start at only 350?, and suites can be as much as 4000?. Hey, compared to the '''Ritz''' it's a bargain!
  • Hotel Costes. 39 Rue Saint-Honore. etro: Concorde. 33 1 42 44 50 00. ttp://hotelcostes.com. 33 1 42 55 50 01. 8.8664365. .3286655. When the Costes brothers who made their fortune in the Paris cafe trade opened this designer hotel a couple of years ago it became an instant hit with the rich and famous, especially of Hollywood. Whether it's worth the price for the exquisite interior decoration and the chance to rub elbows with a few movie stars is up to you to decide. A basic room starts at 500? in the off season. Be warned: they don't pay travel agents commissions, so either book it yourself, or pony up the extra 50? the agent would normally get.
  • Hotel Ritz. 5 Place Vendome. etro: Pyramides. 33 1 43 16 30 70. ttp://www.ritzparis.com/. 33 1 43 16 36 68. esa@ritzparis.com. 8.8683694. .3282338. If there is any one hotel in the world which is not merely "putting on" the Ritz it would be this one, whose very name has entered the English language as a generic word for luxury (or the appearance thereof). The Ritz may not in fact be the fanciest hotel in Paris anymore, but it's always in the running. Rooms start at 650? per night, and run right up to 8500? (350x the price of our budget entry in the neighborhood), but heck, maybe it's your honeymoon.

    Contact

    The 1st arrondissement postal code is 75001.

    Internet Cafes

    <listing name="La Baguenaude" address="30, rue Grande-Truanderie" directions="Metro: Les Halles" url="http://www.baguenaude-cafe.com">This all SUSE Linux shop offers 1/2 hour (2.30?), hour (3.80?), and 2 hour (6.10?) time slots. They also offer courses in the use of KDE and the Gimp (in French of course).</listing>

    Wireless Hotspots

    There are a number of cafes in each arrondissement which offer '''Free''' wireless for drinking customers (for 20 minutes at a time). Here are a couple in the first:

  • <listing name="Le Commerce" address="12, rue Coquillere" directions="Metro: Etienne Marcel"></listing>
  • <listing name="Chez Flottes" address="2, rue Cambon" directions="Metro: Concorde"></listing>
  • <listing name="Tabac du Chatelet" address="8, rue Saint Denis" directions="Metro: Chatelet"></listing>
  • <listing name="Cafe du Pont Neuf" address="14, quai du Louvre" directions="Metro: Pont Neuf"></listing>
  • A complete listing is available from the company which provides the service:

  • <listing name="HotCafe" address="56, rue du Temple" phone="+33 1 42 77 35 63" url="http://www.hotcafe.fr">Phone support available from 9am to 10pm.</listing>
  • Of course many hotels also offer wireless connectivity, but usually for a fee.