It's a small town, easy to get most places by foot. The old town is a compact area of mud brick houses and narrow lanes directly to the east of Main Bazar. Changspa is the agricultural "suburb" northwest of the center, with many guesthouses.
Its elevation is approximately 3500 meters (11,490 feet), so take it easy on your first few days there or risk possible altitude sickness. Even experienced high altitude travellers (Andes) might have some trouble.
There are two roads in to Leh, one from Manali in Himachal Pradesh in the south, and one from Srinagar in the west. Both routes are equally spectacular in different ways, and both are time consuming with winding, narrow roads, and numerous military checkpoints.
The main advantage of taking the road from Srinagar, covering a distance of 434 km (270 mi), is that it runs at a lower altitude, and thereby reduces the risk and severity of altitude sickness. It is also open longer - normally from the beginning of June to October - and follows the traditional trade route between Ladakh and Kashmir, which passes through many picturesque villages and farmlands. The disadvantage is that it passes through areas of higher risk of militant troubles. It takes two long days, with an overnight stop in Kargil. Tickets cost Rupees 370/470 on ordinary/deluxe buses.
The route from Manali to Leh, covering a distance of 473 km (294 mi), is one more commonly taken by tourists. It takes two days, normally with an overnight stop either in Kyelong (alt. 3096) or in tent accommodation in Sarchu (4253) or Pang (4500). Making the first stop in Keylong reduces the risk of altitude sickness (AMS). It traverses one of the highest road passes in the world and is surrounded by wild rugged mountains. The scenery is fantastic, though it is definitely not for the faint hearted. This historical trade route was linked to Yarkhand and was severed by the India-China war in 1962, and later was transformed in to military supply road. Reliable access is limited from mid-June to end-September, as it is blocked by snow for rest of the year.
State buses run from Srinagar and also privately operated deluxe buses.From Manali HPTDC , Himachal Pradesh Tourist Development Corporation, operate Volvo buses that stop overnight in Keylong , between July and September. Costs Rs 1600, including tent accommodation and breakfast in Keylong.HRTC , Himachal Road Transport Corporation, the state run buses ply the road during the officially open period, allowing you to stop in a number of places along the way. Cost in the order of Rs. 400 for the whole stretch. Private buses stop in Keylong , Darcha or Sarchu - the last alternative (eight hundred meters higher than Leh )involving a high incidence of altitude sickness. It is possible to book tickets direct Leh-Delhi, but it is recommended to spend a few days in Manali resting.
The fastest way to get to Leh from Manali is by 'jeep'. Shared jeeps are similar in comfort to the bus, but do the trip in one long day (of about 20-24 hours) as opposed to two short ones on the bus, as such buses are recommended for those who can afford to spend an extra day to enjoy the trip. The journey costs about 1000 rupees for a seat on a shared jeep. During the high season tickets for the jeep rides must be bought in advance of the day of departure and the main street in old Manali is full of ticket touts, you won't have to find them for yourself.
Leaving Manali before dawn, arrival in Leh is sometime after sunset. Although this is the longest and most uncomfortable car journey you will ever take it's an experience unparalleled in India. Crossing over the second highest road in the world affords views of stunning and the bizarre territory. It is advised to take a front seat in the jeep and by NO MEANS allow yourself to be seated in the boot. These seats (in the boot) are inward facing and 24 hours sitting on one of those will take all the pleasure out of the trip.
Privately hired jeep allows the luxury of stopping wherever you like, and allow you to decide on how many people you will travel in your group.
If you are coming from Srinagar, go to #1 taxi stand in town. Book only your seat on sumo taxi jeep to Kargil for Rs. 500. Stay overnight. Book your seat for Leh from Kargil and pay 400 rupees upon arrival in Leh. Get them to drop you at Fort Road which is the heart of the tourist area and accommodation is close by. Make sure you ask for middle seat in the taxi. Too crowded in the front and too uncomfortable in the back. Fantastic scenery for whole two days.
It is also possible to travel between Leh and Manali by truck. These trucks ply the route when it opens in summer and they will be no new sight for anyone who has been in India for even a few days. Making the 490 km (304 mi) journey in the cab of one of these trucks is an experience; they are not as comfortable as the jeeps, nor do they give as good visibility as either jeeps or buses, and take anywhere up to 3 days to complete; but sleeping in the cab and eating the same food as the locals is worth it. You can pre-arrange truck drivers in Manali by going to the main truck stop in the new town. Here the drivers stop on their way from Delhi to Leh and will be more than happy to give you a ride for 500 rupees. Make sure you don't pay before you travel. In Leh there is a similar truck park. Try to pick a truck with the least amount of passengers already otherwise your trip will be even less comfortable. Travelers staying longer in Ladakh are likely to find themselves traveling by truck at some point, and probably don't need to go out of their way to take one.
The road from Manali to Leh is often known as a Biker's Paradise. Bikes (motorcycles) are available for rent at Manali. A popular place is Hardev Motors - located behind the Private Bus Parking Ground. Also Into Himalayas, near Manali mall road is a great place for bikes, especially Enfields.
When biking to Leh it is advisable to travel at a slow pace to allow acclimatization. A suggested itinerary is: Day 1 Manali - Jispa (110 km; 68 mi), Day 2 Jispa - Pang (130 km; 81 mi), and Day 3 Pang -Leh (130 km; 81 mi). Essential supplies include: puncture repair kit, spare clutch cables and some good carriers (to hold luggage). The next bike workshop after Manali is Keylong (110 km; 68 mi) and then at Leh (400 km; 249 mi).
Planes fly year round, and are the only option in the winter. Book early and give yourself at least a few days of flexibility as flights are often delayed due to weather conditions. Air India and Kingfisher Red have daily flights from Delhi. Flights go to/from Delhi, Srinagar, and Jammu.
Those arriving by air are strongly advised to rest for at least one day in order to acclimatize to the high altitude. (See article on altitude sickness)
The closest train stations are Pathankot or Chandigarh, both at least three days away by bus. A new station added recently is Udhampur which is linked by rail to Jammu. Please check the Train schedule as trains may not run on daily basis.
Leh is small enough to walk most places, most notable exception being the airport, for which it's advisable to take a taxi for around 100 to 150 Rupees, although you could even walk there if you really wanted to save the money.
Most travellers use Leh as a base to visit the numerous Gompas Buddhist monistaries ([http://www.visitladakh.com/ps-monasteries.html]) of Ladakh.
There are half a dozen good '''book shops''' with an excellent range of books on the Himalayas, including guidebooks, phrasebooks, books on history, and on Buddhism, as well as novels.
People needing to pick up some warm clothing shouldn't miss out on the '''second hand clothing bazaar''' near the jeep stand. Quality used clothing from first world countries goes for next to nothing here, especially handy if you are only in the cooler climate for a little while.
Leh also has the best selection of '''food for trekking''' albeit not all that different from normal instant noodles, biscuits, powdered milk and chocolate that's available in any village with a shop, but with the addition of fresh and dry fruit and veggies, and a few other luxury foods.
Leh is a good place to pick up Pashmina shawls. On a good day, you can pick up one for about Rs. 3500 or less.
You can enjoy some great fresh baked breads with honey and cheese in the main market of Leh.
There are a few springs scattered around Leh that provide a natural and plastic free alternative to using bottled water.
Most of the guest houses [http://www.visitladakh.com/hotels-guesthouse.html] are located in Leh's northern suburbs in Changspa, Karzoo and surrounding areas, a 5 to 30 minute walk from the center. In fact it seems as though most of the houses in Changspa have been converted to guest houses. Surrounded by farmers fields and often with excellent views, they make wonderful place to spend a couple weeks unwinding. It's easy to wander around this area stopping at the numerous small guest houses to find something that suits your budget and needs.
Carry a torch (flashlight) at night, as there is next to no street lighting, and there are some very deep drainage ditches also beware of the stray street dogs, literally ruling the streets in the night, especially in the inner alleys and around eateries.
If you are traveling from Delhi to Leh by road, best route which enables better acclimatization can be via Shimla, Jalori Pass (Aprox. 10000 Ft), Manali and then an excursion to Rohtang Pass (13500 Ft) and coming back to Manali to sleep, one can then proceed for a high altitude drive to Leh.
If arriving by flight, rest for atleast first 24 hours before starting sightseeing, consider visiting Alchi first since it is lower than Leh and there are no high passes on the way to Alchi.
Unfortunately the Leh bus station is far from a highlight, it's chaotic and poorly organised. There are two sections, one for local transportation within Ladakh, and one for the state run buses.
The local buses get exceptionally crowded, times of departure fluctuate greatly, and there is no ticket office (just board the bus, and pay to the conductor). When planing a trip to a destination in Ladakh ask around to find when the departure time roughly is, and show up at the station half an hour early; ask people there what bus to take, don't trust the destinations marked on the buses; take a seat and wait for the bus to depart. Then expect to spend at least an hour at the bus station.
The state buses run to Srinagar, Manali, and even a direct service to Delhi (3 days away), there is a ticket office, and bookings are taken days in advance. The process here is more straight forward and less time consuming.
Taxis have fixed prices (updated every 2 years) and can be arranged from the Taxi Stand along Fort Road. When available, you may also purchase a copy of the fare-booklet for Rs 20.
Explore the Leh district.