'''Krasnoyarsk''' (_K___p___~_________{) is a city in Eastern Siberia, Russia. It's located on both banks of the Yenisey River.

Understand

Get in

There are few direct flights to Krasnoyarsk from abroad, mostly from Asia, so one is adviced to get to Moscow, Novosibirsk or Irkutsk first.

By plane

There are several flights every day going from and to Moscow (airp. Domodedovo) to the local airport Emelyanovo (_E_}_u_|_____~___r__). There are also flights from most of the largest Russian cities, and a few regular flights from abroad: Beijing, Tianjin, Harbin, the major cities of the nearest ex-USSR countries (Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan). The major local airline company is Krasair (_K___p___~_________{_y_u _p_r_y_p_|_y_~_y_y), you can check its web-site [http://www.krasair.ru www.krasair.ru] for currently available flights. In 2006 KrasAir suffered from financial difficulties but since then the situation has stabilized. In Moscow you can also choose the Aeroflot[http://www.aeroflot.com] company(airp. Sheryemetyevo).

A smaller airport Cheremshanka (_X_u___u_}___p_~_{_p) serves regional flights only, usually between Krasnoyarsk and the northern parts of the Krasnoyarsk Krai.

By train

Krasnoyarsk is located on the Trans-Siberian Railway, so every day dozens of trains pass the Krasnoyarsk central railway station. It takes about 12-14 hours to get to Krasnoyarsk from Novosibirsk or Irkutsk and minimum 60 hours from Moscow or Vladivostok.

By car

The road connecting Vladivostok and Moscow, semi-officially called ''Moskovskyy Trakt'' (_M_____{___r___{_y_z _____p_{__, Russian for the ''Moscow Way'') passes through Krasnoyarsk. However, Russian automobile roads are not very suitable for long-distance travels: motels and road cafes are very rare there, though you can find a dirty hotel and cafeteria in every town.

By bus

Buses are available only from the nearest cities in the region and from the neighbouring Khakassia region. They arrive to the main bus station, located in the northern part of the city known as Vzlyetka (_B_x_|_v___{_p, short for ''Airstrip'', called so because the main airport was located there until the end of the 1980's). A slightly outdated schedule is available online: [http://spravka.newslab.ru/autom.aspx]. A usual price for a trip up to 400 km is about 200-300 rubles (8-12 USD).

Get around

There is a good network of public buses, which are indeed very cheap (11 roubles since September 2008, per trip, regardless the distance). In large buses the conductor walks among the passengers and gets paid once he (or, more often, she) comes by a recently entered passenger. In a minibus (''marshrutka'', _}_p___________{_p, means the ''route bus'') the conductor sits near the driver and gets paid before passengers exit (because of this the hind door is rarely opened). In a large bus the conductor can be determined by a roll of tickets in a hand, a belt purse and, if a bus is crowded, loud demands for payment. However, without a local consultant it's rather difficult to plan a way because route maps are not usually available at bus stops, though there is a very comprehensive [http://www.yarmap.ru software map of Krasnoyarsk] (in Russian) which is able to plan a complex route automatically.

The taxi companies are numerous and phone booking is very easy but the chance of that your English will be understood is very small. It is a very common case in Russia that a driver who wants to earn some money stops near your holdout hand, but in Krasnoyarsk you're strongly advised to use only authorized carriers, it is a very safe city but there is no need to risk without necessity, there are very many licensed drivers available. The licensed cars always have a yellow lamp on the roof with the chessboard-like ornament and advertisements with phone numbers on the sides.

Usually taxis are rather cheap (even if not using a meter) and rather honest, however, seeing that you're a foreigner, some drivers may try to make you pay through the nose. Half-a-city drive should not be more than 300 rubles (11 USD), if you suspect too dirty cheating, you may demonstrate your intent to complain to the driver's boss.

See

Krasnoyarsk is a very old beautiful city, established by Russian Cossacks (military servants) in 1628. It's name consists of two words — Krasnyi (red, because of clay reddish soil) and Yar (steep bank). Views of Yenisey River and the nearby Sayan Mountains covered by taiga forest are quite picturesque.

  • '''Stolby Nature Reserve''' (_H_p_____r_u_t_~_y_{ _R_____|_q__, or Pillars in English ) is famous among alpinists all over the world. Stolby covers an area of 470km2 (181 square miles) with numerous giant granite rocks formations up to 100 m high, many of very extraordinary shapes: Ded (_D_u_t, Russian for ''Grandfather''), Babka (_A_p_q_{_p, Russian for ''Grandmother''), Slon (_R_|___~, Russian for ''Elephant''), Peria (_P_u______, Russian for ''Feathers''). The last one is the most dangerous rock, which has already taken dosens of climbers' lives. Stolby is a major rock climbing location, many local climbers intentionally do not use any belaying equipment and call their extreme sport "stolbizm", which is known around the world as free solo climbing. To get there you should take a bus to 'Turbaza' (_S_____q_p_x_p, Russian acronym for ''Tourist Base''), in the autumn 2008 it was #19 and #30, then you need to walk for 7 km on the asphalted road through the forest until you reach the Pervyy Stolb rock (_P_u___r___z _R_____|_q, Russian for ''The First Pillar''). Most of the distance goes upwards, the last 400m of the way is rather steep, that's why tourists has called this road "Pykhtun" (_P_________~, Russian for ''Panter'').
  • There is also a cable car that travels to the Reserve. Check the web-site[http://www.stolby.ru/eng/] for more details.

  • '''Divnogorsk city''' (_D_y_r_~___s_______{, means "The Town of Wondrous Mountains") — 40 km West, half an hour on the jet-boat (only in summer) or by train from the central railway station (_w_u_|_u_x_~___t_______w_~___z _r___{_x_p_|). The views to the river and the mountains are excellent. A major hydroelectric dam is located there, during the water discharge in summer it looks fantastic. If you choose train then please note that there are few trains (elektrichkas) per day going there: at 6:37 AM (except Saturday and Sunday in winter), at 3:42 PM, at 6:00 PM plus an additional summer weekend train at 10:38 AM. Trains back to Krasnoyarsk are at 6:00 AM, at 8:28 AM (except Saturday and Sunday in winter), at 5:22 PM plus an additional summer weekend train at 12:18 AM. The schedule may be temporarily changed at any time.
  • '''Karaulnaya Gora''' (_K_p___p___|___~_p__ _s_____p, Russian for 'The Watch Hill') — a large hill with the Paraskeva Pyatnitsa Chapel (_X_p_____r_~__ _P_p___p___{_u_r__ _P_____~_y____) on its top is a symbol of the city depicted on the 10-ruble banknote. To get there you can take a bus, in the autumn 2008 the suitable bus numbers were #32, #64, #74 and #88, and ride to ''Ploschad Pobyedy'' (_P_|_____p_t__ _P___q_u_t__, Russian for ''The Victory Plaza''), from there walk the Stepana Razina Str. until you see the chapel. In the village-type surrounding area you can easily come upon criminals and drug traders, so you should better not try to walk there.
  • '''Vasily Surikov Museums''' (Lenina Str. 98 and Karla Marksa Str. 36) are the museums of the one of the greatest Russian painters who was born and lived in Krasnoyarsk until he moved to Moscow to become a member of the National Academy of Arts. The first is a two-storey wooden house built in 1830 by the painter's father, Vasiliy Surikov was born and lived for many years in that house, the second is a later-built one-storey house holding many of his works.
  • '''Krasnoyarsk Regional Museum''' (Dubrovinskogo Str. 84) is a recently restored monumental building in an ancient Egyptian style. It holds a lot of good exhibitions on the history of the Krasnoyarsk Krai as well as many archeological artifacts.
  • '''Andrey Dubensky Monument''' (near Partizana Zheleznyaka Str. 1) located at the top of the Krasnyy Yar hill after which the city was named is a monument to the Cossack leader Andrey Dubensky who has founded the stockaded fort of Krasnyy Yar in 1628 by the order of Michael I. The monument was erected in 2003 to honour the 375th anniversary of the city.
  • '''Flower monuments''' are located all over the city. Large figures (2–5m) made of flowers can be seen only in summer. The first figure is a Bear, it stands near the mayoralty building known for its modernist Big Ben-like clock, a family of Giraffes on the Lenina str. behind the Regional Government building knows as the ''Grey House'' (_R_u_____z _t___}), a Rooster near the Theater of Musical Comedy (_S_u_p____ _M___x___{_p_|___~___z _K___}_u_t_y_y), a family of Elephants on the Kopylova (_K_______|___r_p) str.
  • '''Roev Ruchey Zoo''' (_Q___u_r _______u_z, Russian for ''Royev's Brook'')[http://www.roev.ru/chey/] is located westward of the entrance to the Stolby Nature Reserve (one bus stop further). It is a very good zoo, where animals live in good conditions, the city children and adults love to visit it throughout the whole year. Its animal collection is one of the richest in Russia. The most famous inhabitant is a polar bear called Sedov who was gifted to the zoo by the governor Alexander Khloponin in 2003.
  • Do

  • Krasnoyarsk has a lot of huge '''trade-and-entertainment centers''' where you can find cinema theaters, restaurants, cafeterias and numerous large and small shops. The major centers are: Torgovyy Kvartal (_S_____s___r___z _K_r_p_____p_|, Russian for ''Trade Block'') at Televizornaya Str. 1, Planeta (_P_|_p_~_u___p, Russian for ''Planet'') at Dyevyatogo Maya Str. 77 and Luch (_L____, Russian for ''Ray'') at Karla Marksa Str. 149. Other large trading centers are Kvant (_K_r_p_~__, Russian for ''Quant'') at Krasnoy Armii Str. 10, Yevraziya (_E_r___p_x_y__, Russian for ''Eurasia'') at Karla Marksa Str. 95-1 and Krasnoyarye (_K___p___~_________u, Russian for ''Places of Krasnoyarsk'') at Krasnoyarskiy Rabochiy Str. 120.
  • '''The City Day''' is celebrated every year in June, it is a spectacular show with a street carnival of different topics each year and everning fireworks.
  • '''The Night of Ad Eaters''' is held every year in June in the Opera and Ballet Theater (Perensona Str. 2). The collection of advertisement trailers by Jean Marie Boursicot is presented to the local elite. The tickets are usually quite expensive (100+ USD), but the event is worth it.
  • The '''Culture and History Center''' (former ''Lenin Museum'') constantly presents various local and international exhibitions and events, all open to the public and sometimes free: fine art and photography by modern artists, art-house and independent movie festivals, ''museum nights'' with performances by young local artists, wax figure exhibitions, moving exhibitions from other cities, etc. The very building of the center itself is an incredibly interesting place to visit due to its original and atmospheric inside architecture.
  • The summer of 2006 has been very interesting due to the '''overflow of water in the Yenisey river''' caused by the drop of water from the Divnogorsk Hydroelectric Power Station dam. Every year the Power Station drops amounts of water from its reservoir producing a large waterfall, of course it very rarely causes a flood like in the 2006 but still it is a spectacular view.
  • You can also visit '''beautiful forests''' surrounding Krasnoyarsk, including the much-less-known Mininskiye Stolby rocks, which are similar to the Stolby rocks but lesser in quantity, as well as numerous ''vidovkas'' (_r_y_t___r_{_p, Siberian tourist slang meaning ''place of view''). For such a route it is strongly recommended to find a good guide since there are no special hiking roads made, ways to get there are usually limited to train and foot, there is a possibility to meet wild beasts and you must be ready to walk for 10-20 miles without a rest, often uphill. You can cut some dry wood to make fire freely but be sure to take all the needed precautions not to ignite the forest, especially in windy days of autumn and spring, when grass is dry. Incredible memories are guaranteed.
  • Learn

    Next to Novosibirsk and Tomsk, Krasnoyarsk is the most prominent scientific and educational center of Siberia with more than 30 higher education facilities, many of which are the branches of the Russian Academy of Science, and about 200 high schools. The most notable higher education institutes are:

  • Krasnoyarsk State University (Russian abbreviation is KGU), founded in 1963 as a division of Novosibirsk State University, became a standalone university in 1969
  • Krasnoyarsk State Technical University (Russian abbreviation is KGTU), founded in 1956
  • Krasnoyarsk State University of Education (Russian abbreviation is KGPU), founded in 1932
  • Siberian State Technological University (Russian abbreviation is SibGTU), the oldest in the city, founded in 1930 as the Siberian Institute of the Forest
  • Siberian State Aerospace University (Russian abbreviation is SibGAU), founded in 1960
  • Krasnoyarsk State Medical Academy (Russian abbreviation is KrasGMA), founded in 1942
  • Similarly to Novosibirsk and Tomsk, Krasnoyarsk has a special city district called Akademgorodok (Academic Town in Russian) where many of the institutes are located. There, in the Institute of Biophysics, the experiment on ecological isolation of human beings called "Bios", similar to the US experiment Biosphere 2, has been successfully held in 1973-1985.

    Work

    Like any industrial center, Krasnoyarsk has a large number of employment opportunities. However, salaries are low (up to 500 USD/month is 'good', 1000+USD/month is 'very good'; higher salaries are availble for top-managers or business owners only).

    Buy

    If you want to buy Siberian souvenirs or paintings of the Krasnoyarsk artists you can visit the '''Diana''' (_D_y_p_~_p) art salon at Mira St. (___|. _M_y___p) 51. You may try to speak English with merchants here. Another place to look for paintings of the local artists is the '''Khingan''' (_V_y_~_s_p_~) galleries at Mira St. (___|. _M_y___p) 3, Vzlyotnaya St. (___|. _B_x_|_v___~_p__) 2 and Totmina St. (___|. _S_____}_y_~_p) 6. Siberian souvenirs are also sold in the '''Sibir-Etno''' (_R_y_q_y____-_____~__) galleries, the first of them is in the Krasnoyarsk railway station, the second is at Aviatorov St. (___|. _@_r_y_p_________r) 19.

    The one unique thing you're advised to buy is '''cedar nuts''', because the Siberian region is the only region where the authentic variety of this delicacy can be purchased. Throughout the rest of the world cedar nuts are extremely expensive.

    Other goods are the same as all over Russia. Chinese clothes could be slightly cheaper on the '''Chinese market'''.

    Eat

    Well, it's difficult to stay hungry in Krasnoyarsk. There's no McDonald's, but KFC/Rosticks is now available in several locations.

    The only places you're strongly adviced NOT to visit - any restaurants near the Railroad Station, and the local Market-Place ('_K___|_____x_~___z _____~___{', which is located at the end of Diktatury _D_y_{___p________ street), because they are traditionally occupied by local and visiting criminals — that is unless, of course, you yourself are a criminal looking to socialize.

    Budget

    A number of cheap bars serving sandwiches served are spread all over the city. Just stop in any one and you'll find hospitable people (you will, however, need to understand some Russian to get very far in these venues).

  • '''Venezia''', Mira (_M_y___p) street crossing Surikova _R_____y_{___r_p street. One of the best restaurants serving Italian cuisine. To the left of a large shopping mall called Dom Byta (_D___} _q_____p). Be careful not to miss the well hidden small door.
  • Mid-range

  • '''100 Povarov''' (100 _____r_p_____r), on Mira (_M_y___p) street. Russian for "100 Cooks", this is the place to eat a lot for an average price.
  • Also there are a number of excellent Chinese restaurants on Mira street near the Theater of Musical Comedy, where real Northern Chinese Cuisine can be found.

    Splurge

  • '''Center''' (_W_u_~____), Mira street (''near the Technological University campus''). Serves European food.
  • '''Bavaria'''' (_A_p_r_p___y__), on the Square near the Opera Theater. German cuisine.
  • '''Balkan Grill''' (_A_p_|_{_p_~ _C___y_|__) is behind Krasnoyarsk Opera theater, serves delicious authentic! cuisine of South-Eastern Europe.
  • Drink

    Numerous nightclubs can be found in all parts of Krasnoyarsk, but it's better to avoid those located in suburbs (the clientele can be unpleasant), or very expensive luxury clubs and restaurants (frequented by local criminals). The prominent nightclubs are:

  • '''Planet Krasnoyarsk''' (_P_|_p_~_u___p _K___p___~_________{) on Predmostnaya Ploschad is the most famous (and actually the largest) night club.
  • '''Nirvana''' (_N_y___r_p_~_p) is to date the best night club with famous DJs and pop-star visitors. It is a 15 minute drive from downtown (15 Kirenskogo st. ___|. _K_y___u_~___{___s__ 15) and surrounding areas may not be very pleasant to walk at night.
  • '''Che Guevara Bar''' (_A_p__ _X_u _C_u_r_p___p), Profsoyuzov St. (___|. _P_____________x___r) 3, building 1/35, near the Krasnoyarsk railway station.
  • '''Gagarin''' (_C_p_s_p___y_~), Mayerchaka St. (___|. _M_p_u_____p_{_p) 7_s.
  • Most cinemas have night clubs as well. Actually, it quite difficult to find several adjacent blocks without at least one night club or disco.

    NOTE: if you get in any night club, either luxury or inferior, watch out for drug traffickers! They can be found in ALL night clubs, but usually don't disturb those who don't want to contact them.

    Sleep

    Generally speaking, the closer to the center, the safer. Although Krasnoyarsk is a very safe place, you're not advised to look for accommodation in the suburbs; local lumpens won't make your stay pleasant. The right (southern) bank is mostly "lumpenized" except for the Predmostnaya Ploshchad' (Bridge Square, or _P___u_t_}_______~_p__ ___|_____p_t__); on the contrary, the left (northern) bank is nice except for the most distant districts.

    You're strongly advised to book your accommodation beforehand (better by phone, and don't expect to find any English-speaking staff), because there are not many hotels in Krasnoyarsk, most with no on-line booking service and no English-speaking personnel. Don't expect to find Internet and hair-dryers, but be ready to meet insects and to go without hot water, unless you choose the most expensive hotels.

    Budget

    There is no budget accommodation in the city. The cheapest hotels are from 50USD per night, which is hardly a budget level. On the Railway station, some elderly women can suggest rooms in their own flats for ~10USD per night—accept at your own risk (elderly women may have young sons). They will not be able to register your visa for you - for that you will need a hotel.

    Mid-range

  • Yakhont Hotel (_s_______y_~_y___p _`_____~__). 4-a Telman street (___|. _S_u_|___}_p_~_p 44-_p). ocated 15 min drive from the Center. 566767. ttp://www.yahont.ru. ahont_mail@mail.ru.

  • Ogni Eniseya Hotel (_s_______y_~_y___p _O_s_~_y _E_~_y___u__). 0 Dubrovinskogo street (___|. _D___q_____r_y_~___{___s__ 80). ocated on the embankment of the Yenisey River, near the Regional Museum. 275262.

  • Tourist Hotel (_s_______y_~_y___p _S_____y____). Gladkova street (___|. _C_|_p_t_{___r_p 2). ocated on the embankment of the Yenisey River, Predmostnaya square (_P___u_t_}_______~_p__ ___|_____p_t__). 761900. ttp://www.krastour.ru.

    Splurge

    Krasnoyarsk's two luxury hotels cost from 130 USD per night, which is hardly worth it. However, you're safe from insects, and their location is quite convenient.

  • Krasnoyarsk Hotel (_s_______y_~_y___p _K___p___~_________{). 4 Uritskogo street (___|. _T___y___{___s__ 94). ocated on the Square at the Opera Theatre. 273769. ttp://www.hotelkrs.ru.
  • Oktyabr'skaya Hotel (_s_______y_~_y___p _O_{_____q_______{_p__). 5 Mira street (___|. _M_y___p 15). ocated on the Square at the Opera Theatre, the best hotel of the city. 277508. ttp://www.hoteloctober.ru. .

    Contact

    The international code for Russia is +7, the code for Krasnoyarsk is 391 (since 6 Sept. 2008). On September the 6th 2008 all Krasnoyarsk numbers had a 2 added to the beginning.

    Public phones are not very common. International phones can be found in the post offices, where you prepay your talk to a cashier (English is very unlikely to be understood).

    Mobile phones are carried by almost everyone, including children. Prepaid SIM cars with Russian federal number are sold for many national and local telecommunication providers: [http://www.krasnoyarsk.beeline.ru BeeLine] (_A_y_|_p_z_~), [http://www.kras.mts.ru MTS] (_M_S_R), [http://www.etk.ru YeniseyTelecom] (_E_~_y___u_z _S_u_|_u_{___}), [http://www.megafonsib.ru Megafon-Krasnoyarsk] (_M_u_s_p_____~-_K___p___~_________{), all around the city. The mobile standard is GSM 900/1800, however some operators still provide the DAMPS service. SMS usually costs around 1 rouble (~5 US cents), one minute of talk is around 5 roubles (~20 US cents). Since July 2006 you cannot be charged for incoming calls (unless you're using the roaming), but sometimes you need to pay a fixed price of 50 US cents for a call. For the beginning of 2008 there was a pretty good coverage from all of the major cellular providers in the city neighborhood, though do not expect the phone to work in deep uninhabited valleys as well as far from relatively large towns.

    Internet cafes are not common, but Mobile GPRS in Russia is usually very cheap — 5-10 roubles (20-50 US cents) per 1 MB. There are many local ISP's who offer high-speed Internet connection via ADSL, Ethernet, Wi-Fi and Wellcom (IMT-MC 450) but they all require signing an end-user agreement and very unlikely accept foreign passports and understand English as well. Modem access (usually 40-56 kbps) are much easier to buy: ''Internet cards'' can be bought in any post office and some supermarkets, they contain login, password and the ISP modem phone number. In the beginning of 2009 there were several free Wi-Fi Internet access points available in the public places:

  • '''Traveller's Coffee''', Mira St. (___|. _M_y___p) 54. Wi-Fi is about 100 rubles per 100 MB. Setting up is not instant, but as long as you get through the instructions, all is OK. Good coffee, some simple cousine and fine lounge music are nice additions to your temporary work environment.
  • '''Luch''' (_L____) theater, Karla Marksa St. (___|. _K_p___|_p _M_p___{___p) 149.
  • '''Mama Roma''' restaurant, Mira St. (___|. _M_y___p) 50a. You should order something (more than a cup of coffee) and ask to turn Wi-Fi on.
  • Stay safe

    Though generally safe for the experienced traveler, Krasnoyarsk can be a tricky destination for someone not familiar with the region and culture. The downtown areas are pretty much safe all night, but in the suburbs it's highly recommended not to walk alone after dark. If you are 15-30 years old, the neighborhood of student dormatories (living blocks without balconies, usually 9-storey), the inside of living districts and street cafees can be dangerous for you even at day due to the chances to meet drunk bullies who can be easily provoked, for example, by your unusual or unathletic look. Other places of higher risk are large marketplaces and the railway station: be sure to keep your cash out of view and out pickpockets' reach.

    Avoid asking the police for help unless it is really necessary. If possible, communicate with the hotel staff and security first, because communication with local policemen may be unpleasant due to both the language barrier and their usual rudeness — or even dangerous, especially for non-European-looking foreigners (although police in Krasnoyarsk is far from being as dangerous as in Moscow and Saint Petersburg). Sadly, this is a national problem in Russia: there is not much difference between police and criminals.

    Get out

    The easiest way to travel from the city is to fly to Moscow first, and then to wherever necessary. However, there are some flights from the local airport Emelianovo to China and the nearest ex-USSR countries, or through Novosibirsk and Irkutsk which can be easily reached by train.

    The neighboring region of Khakassia with its major city Abakan is 400km West, reachable by car (M-54 road) and everyday train from the railway station.

    The next stops of note on the Trans-Siberian Railway are Achinsk to the west towards Novosibirsk and Kansk to the east towards Irkutsk

    During the summer there are 1–2 week cruises to the Northern part of the Krasnoyarsk Krai to the mouth of the Yenisey. Everyday connections exist only for the city of Divnogorsk, located 40km west, near the Krasnoyarsk Hydroelectric Power Station.