'''Dar es Salaam''' (''Haven of Peace'' in Arabic) was founded in 1862 by Sultan Seyyid Majid of Zanzibar on the site of the village of Mzizima. Mzizima's history dates back to the time when the Barawa people started to settle and cultivate the area around Mbwa Maji, Magogoni, Mjimwema, Gezaulole and Kibonde Maji Mbagara.

Present day Dar es Salaam's origins have been influenced by myriad of Sultans, the Germans and the British. The city started as a fishing village in the mid 19th century, is now Tanzania's largest city, and has become one of East Africa_fs most important ports and trading centers.

With its great atmosphere, mix of African, Muslim, and South Asian influences, picturesque harbour, beaches, chaotic markets, and historical buildings, it is well worth extending your stay beyond the time between flights.

Dar es Salaam is Tanzania's financial and political hub despite having lost its status as official capital to Dodoma in 1973.

Understand

Dar es Salaam is certainly not at the top of the list of places to see for most visitors to Tanzania. It's often a necessary stop on their way to Zanzibar, the northern safari circuit or home. That being said, Dar has its charm. Walks around the city center are a great way to get a feel for the culture and Kariakoo market can be an interesting place for the more adventurous. It can also be a good base for visiting some of the nearby sites such as Bagamoyo, Bongoyo and Mbudja Islands, as well as learn to scuba dive or go deep sea fishing. For those looking for something more humanitarian, most international organizations are based in Dar and may be a good starting point if you wish to volunteer.

Geography

Most visitors to Dar arrive via Julius K. Nyerere International Airport, about 10 km west of the city center. Dar is flat and is bordered on the east by the Indian Ocean.

Climate

Dar es Salaam has a very humid climate and relatively stable temperatures, both in terms of night-to-day, and summer-to-winter. The driest and coolest season is June through early October. Short rains occur November through February (especially December), and long rains occur March through May, with monsoon season peaking in April. Temperatures are high November through May, highest in January.

janlow=25|feblow=25|marlow=24|aprlow=23|maylow=22|junlow=20|jullow=19|auglow=19|seplow=19|octlow=21|novlow=22|declow=24| janhigh=31|febhigh=31|marhigh=31|aprhigh=30|mayhigh=29|junhigh=29|julhigh=28|aughigh=28|sephigh=28|octhigh=29|novhigh=30|dechigh=31

Between December and February, in the dry season, temperatures can rise to the mid-30s (__C); due to the high humidity, discomfort can be very high. You should seek shelter from the sun during the midday heat and use copious amounts of sunblock.

Best times to visit are: June-Sept, after the rainy season, with milder temperatures and lower relative humidity.

Get in

Visa

North Americans and Europeans can obtain tourist visas upon landing in Dar es Salaam at a cost of US$50 (US$100 for US passport holders) paid in US dollars. However, some may prefer to get a visa before arriving. A visa can be obtained from the Tanzanian High Commission/Embassy. Fees are US$50 and you will need a passport sized photograph. Normally ready same day.

If you want or need a business visa, you will have to go to the Immigration Headquarter within 5 working days and pay another US$100. You will also need no less than four passport sized photos. If the secretary at your company offers to take care of the procedure, do not forget to ask about the status. They might forget to tell you if something is missing.

At the airport, stand in the visa line, which is on the right hand side of the queue for passport control. It can get a bit hectic because several international flights arrive almost simultaneously, so ask others where the queue starts. Once you've received your visa, there's no need to stop at passport control; they issue the visa and stamp you in at the same time, so just walk through to the baggage claim area.

By plane

Tanzania's main airport is located in Dar es Salaam, '''Julius Nyerere International Airport - (IATA:DAR)''' (formerly known as Mwalimu Julius K. Nyerere International Airport and Dar es Salaam International Airport).

The airport is 10 km from the city center and 20 km from the Msasani Peninsula. Most large hotels offer a pick-up and drop-off service upon request. A taxi from the airport to the city center should cost between 10,000TSh and 20,000TSh, but many will ask for as much as US$40. Prices will be higher at night. If you can't get a decent price, walk to the main road and flag a taxi, it may be cheaper. Do not do this at night. As of June 2008, petrol is about US$1.50/liter and climbing, this in a country where people earn less than $1 a day. Fares may rise quickly. Daladalas are also available if you walk out the the main road. Look for those marked '''POSTA''', which is the main Post Office in the city center. Hitchhiking is uncommon and most drivers will expect some form of payment from foreigners.

Dar es Salaam is served '''Internationally''' from:

Europe by:

  • '''KLM Royal Dutch Airlines''' (Amsterdam), +255 22 213 9790, [http://www.klm.com], daily flights with a stopover in Kilimanjaro.
  • '''British Airways''' (London-Heathrow), +255 22 211 3820, [http://www.ba.com], 3 flights a week (Tuesday, Friday and Sunday) flights.
  • '''Swiss International Airlines''' (Zurich), +255 22 211 8870, [http://www.swiss.com], 5 flights a week (Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday) with a stopover in Nairobi, Kenya.
  • Middle East and Asia by:

  • '''Emirates''' (Dubai), +255 22 211 6100, [http://www.emirates.com], Daily flights.
  • '''Qatar Airways''' (Doha), +255 22 284 2675, [http://www.qatarairways.com], 1019, Julius Nyerere International Airport, Dar es Salaam, Tanzania, Daily flights.
  • '''Air India''' (Mumbai), +255 22 215 2642, [http://www.airindia.com], 3 flights a week (Monday, Wednesday and Friday)
  • Africa by

  • '''South African Airways''' (Johannesburg), +255 22 211 7044, [http://www.flysaa.com], Twice daily flights.
  • '''Ethiopian Airlines''' (Addis Ababa), +255 22 211 7063, [http://www.flyethiopian.com], Daily flights (except on Monday) with a stopover in Kilimanjaro.
  • '''Kenya Airways''' (Nairobi), +255 22 211 9376 (Dar) & +255 24 223 8355 (Zanzibar), [http://www.kenya-airways.com], 3 daily flights with some stopping in Kilimanjaro.
  • '''Air Malawi''' (Blantyre & Lilongwe), +255 22 212 7746 / 2043, [http://www.airmalawi.com], 3 flights a week (Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday)
  • '''Mozambique Airlines a.k.a. LAM ? Linhas Aereas de Mocambique''', (Maputo), +255 22 213 4600, [http://www.lam.co.mz/en] e-mail: info@fasttracktanzania.com, 3 flights a week (Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday)
  • '''Air Zimbabwe''', (Harare), [http://www.airzimbabwe.com], 2 flights a week (Friday and Sunday)
  • '''Air Uganda''', (Entebbe), +256 41 216 5555, [http://www.air-uganda.com], 3 flights a week (Monday, Friday and Sunday) to Dar es Salaam, with flights to Kilimanjaro and Zanzibar also.
  • And '''Domestically''' by:

    These airlines provide almost daily service to and from Dar es Salaam to all major cities including Arusha, Mwanza, Mbeya, Zanzibar, Kilimanjaro and most national parks.

  • '''Air Tanzania''', +255 22 211 8411, [http://www.airtanzania.com], email: bookings@airtanzania.com. Also fly internationally to '''Johannesburg''' daily.
  • '''Precision Air''', +255 22 212 1718, [http://www.precisionairtz.com], Along Nyerere/Pugu Road, P.O Box 70770, Dar es Salaam, Tanzania, email: info@precisionairtz.com or pwreservations@precisionairtz.com. Internationally to '''Nairobi''' daily.
  • '''Coastal Aviation''', +255 22 211 7959, [http://www.coastal.cc], P. O. Box 3052, 107 Upanga Road, Dar es Salaam, Tanzania, email: safari@coastal.cc
  • '''ZanAir''', +255 24 223 3670, [http://www.zanair.com], P.O.Box 2113, Zanzibar, Tanzania, email: reservations@zanair.com.
  • '''Warning:''' Domestic flights are often late but generally reliable.

    '''Buying Tickets:''' When purchasing tickets for domestic flights with a credit card, travel agents will add-on a fee ranging anywhere from 3-6% of the ticket price. To avoid the fee, pay for your tickets in cash. There are no additional fees when purchasing tickets for international destinations.

    By train

    There are two trains running out of Dar Es Salaam from different stations. '''Tanzania Railroad''' is a train that travels through the center of Tanzania to Dodoma and further West, even up to Mwanza; however, the train tends to be unreliable, not terribly pleasant, and full of thieves. Tourists should try to travel in groups, and/or buy out a first class cabin. Keep the doors and windows locked, especially when sleeping. The train travels at walking pace much of the time, so it is possible to buy fresh fruit, eggs, and other items out of the windows all along the way.

    '''Tazara''' runs a much nicer, though not much more on-time train to the south, which goes through part of the Selous Game Reserve, through Mbeya, and down to Kapiri Mposhi in Zambia (about 2 to 3 hours from Lusaka). Tazara has a large train station just out on the edge of town. Visas for Zambia are available on the train. This is a nice but slow way to travel, as it takes about 2 days.

    By bus

    Bus travel is generally reliable if you pick the right company. It can be somewhat scary as Tanzanians seem to value arriving quickly more than arriving safely ('Mungu akipenda, tutafika' - If god wants it, we shall arrive).

    '''Scandinavia Express''' [http://www.scandinaviagroup.com/Scandinavia%20Express/index.htm] used to be quite reliable but has fallen on hard times of late. However, they do travel on a schedule (when in good order) and provide a comfortable ride: some of the buses have air conditioning, and many are 4 seats across instead of the usual 5. Scandinavia run their own bus station in Dar Es Salaam, and tickets should be purchased ahead of time. Note that their cityterminal is far closer to town than central bus station. You can save a few dollars in taxi fares going to hotels in city centre, like those of Libya street area, by using Scandinavian.

    If you're traveling to Arusha, '''Royal Coach''' is perhaps an even better option. The buses are very nice, have a/c (when working), a bathroom, and travel at 80kph for safety. The Royal Coach ticket office is located downtown near the Jambo Inn and Econolodge: buses leave from here early in the morning as well, although they then wait at the main bus stand for at least an hour.

    All other buses leave from Dar Es Salaam's central bus station in '''Ubungo''', just west of the city (TSh5,000 taxi ride from downtown [or more, depending on your negotiation skills]). Here you can find buses to the majority of other cities. Although there are many touts outside of Ubungo's ticket area, they are mostly harmless. If you are put off by them, ask the taxi to take you inside the station for a small extra fee. The ticket offices are located just outside the station, though you can buy the tickets from the bus if you have entered already. This might be a better idea regardless, as you cannot tell the state of the bus from outside, nor how full the bus is (buses will only leave when completely full).

    '''Warning:''' Some of the cheaper lines run buses which are remarkably dilapidated, uncomfortable, will take a very long time to fill up, and will likely have to stop more often on the way, assuming they make it at all. Bus travel by night is not allowed, so most buses except for those to nearby cities will leave early in the morning.

    The nearest dala-dala stand is also called "Ubungo", just down the road: Leaving the bus stand, head right on Morogoro Road, going away from the city; cross Sam Njoma Road, and it will be on the left. Dala-dalas to downtown will be marked "Posta"; people are typically happy to point them out to you if you ask.

    Taxi prices from Ubungo are highest inside the stand, where there is a fairly strong cartel (similar to the airport). However there are always taxis outside the stand as well, with whom better prices can be negotiated. If you make a deal with a tout, and not directly with the driver (sitting in the car) the price will include a commission for the tout. Your negotiating position will be affected by things like the weather, time of day, traffic, how many other taxis there are, whether you can bargain in kiswahili, whether you have lots of bags, etc. Starting to walk to the daladala stand can show you're serious about negotiating - actually going there and taking a dala will really save you money.

    By car

    See the '''By car''' in the '''Get In''' in the Tanzania article.

    Fax, Internet and Telecom Services

    There are quite a number of Internet Cafes in Dar located in Different places, But this particular one is the most popular especially for visitors '''CybeBase Internet Cafe'''' Located along Shekilango Road in '''Sinza''' +255-787-000157 OR +255-719-924389, cybebase@gmail.com

    Get around

    By foot

    Walking around central Dar is a nice way to see the city and probably the best way to get around. In general people will leave you alone except for the occasional greeting. There aren't many sidewalks in Dar so exercise caution when walking along busy roads.

    Cycling

    Cycling around Dar is possible but can be difficult and scary. You should be comfortable with cycling in high-congestion areas where cyclist are often low in the food chain. Tanzanians have little patience when driving and in their mind any vehicle smaller than theirs is responsible for getting out the way. Wear a helmet and hone your defensive cycling skills.

    Some local tour groups offer guide bicycling tours around the city. This is a good way to get further a field and interact with the locals.

    For a countryside cycle trip, the Pugu Hills Nature Centre 12 km. from the international airport (0754 565 498) is a good opportunity, but you need to come with your own bike and make a booking if you plan to visit the place ([http://www.puguhills.com]).

    By car

    Car hires can be organized through most hotels. Tanzanians drive on the left. Like many developing countries, driving in Dar can be stressful, difficult and dangerous. In addition to potholes, drivers must contend with aggressive taxis and dalla-dallas (see below), poor driving skills by western standards, large potholes, uncovered manholes, few if any streetlights at night, and thieves who remove any exterior part of your vehicle while you_fre stopped at traffic lights. During the rainy season you must also navigate through water covered roads that may hide deep potholes and around Tanzanians who dart out into traffic in an effort to get out of the rain, often with little children in tow. In conclusion, driving in Dar should be left to those with driving experience in developing countries.

    '''Choice of vehicle'''

  • If you're only driving in Dar, you can opt for a sedan which will be cheaper on gas and easier to park. You'll still have to go slowly when you're taking secondary roads, many of which aren't sealed.
  • '''Navigation'''

    '''Driving in the city'''

  • Dar's city center is extremely congested from 9AM-6PM from Monday to Friday. There are few traffic lights and the streets are very narrow. It's dog-eat-dog, so offensive driving skills are a must as no one will let you pass if you just sit and wait at stops signs. Streets are crowded with parked and moving cars, SUVs, lorries, scooters, and very muscular men pulling insanely overload carts. People can spend hours stuck in traffic jams, especially around Kariakoo Market.
  • There are a few roundabouts in the downtown, which the locals call "keeplefties" because they thought that the sign advising drivers to "Keep Left" when entering the roundabouts was the name of this fascinating Mzungu invention. '''Mzungu''' is the Swahili word for "white" foreigners. It is not derogatory; more along the lines of calling a white person a Caucasian.
  • When parking on the street in Dar, find a spot to park, then lock your doors and leave. When you return, a parking attendant wearing a yellow florescent vest will approach you for payment. The fee is 300 Tzs for two hours. The attendant should either hand you a ticket or it will already be on your windshield. '''DO NOT''' leave without paying if there is a ticket on your windshield, because the attendant will been forced to make up for the missing money, and probably only earns 3000 Tzs a day at best.
  • '''Note:''' Carjackings are uncommon but opening doors or jumping through open windows to steal valuables is not. Keep your windows closed and doors locked. As of February 2008, reports have arisen of thieves aiming for golden and silver earrings at traffic lights, simply ripping them out. When stopped at traffic lights or parked in unattended locations, thieves have been known to steal mirrors, paneling, spare tires and anything that is not either engraved with the license plate number of bolted to the vehicle's body. Choose your parking spots carefully and don't leave valuables in plain sight. You can either offer the parking attendant a small tip to watch your vehicle, 500 to 1000 Tzs, or find a secured parking lot, especially if your leaving the vehicle overnight. Hotels often provide such parking areas.

    '''Routes'''

    '''Dangers and annoyances'''

  • Tanzanians drive very fast and won't hesitate to overtake in a blind curve or even when there are oncoming vehicles. Always be vigilant.
  • The number of drunk drivers involved in serious vehicular accidents has dramatically increased in recent months. Although there are laws against driving under the influence, like many other laws they are poorly enforced, especially at night. Exercise caution when driving at night and around popular nightspots.
  • Anytime a dignitary or senior government official is traveling in Dar, police will stop traffic in all directions to ensure the path from their departure point to destination is clear. This can result in extremely long waits and serious traffic congestion that can take hours to clear. Whether you are driving or taking a taxi, ensure that have factored in these frequent road blocks which could easily add one hour to your travel time to the airport.
  • '''NOTE:''' A senior government official has suggested that the Government purchase helicopters to ferry officials and dignitaries to and from the airport and around town in a bid to reduce traffic congestion. Needless to say that this request was not well received by representatives from the various donor countries and international aid agencies.

  • If you are involved in an accident with a pedestrian, drive to the nearest police station and advise them. '''DO NOT''' exit your vehicle and attempt to resolve the situation even if you are sure it was not your fault. Tanzanians are some of the nicest people you will meet in Africa, but they have been known to take matters, like most of Africans, into their own hands. This is largely due to their mistrust of the police and the belief that anyone with money, e.g. rich foreigners, can buy their way out of a problem.
  • By taxi

    Taxi fares are not fixed. Dar's taxi drivers consider almost all trips within the (poorly defined) city center to be worth a minimum of 2000 Tzs. This can actually be a good deal (one side of the city to the other in peak hour) or a bad deal (when it is a couple of blocks).

    A price must be negotiated before your begin traveling, or the price will be considerably higher once you reach your destination. It is not customary to tip your driver. While there are many friendly and honest drivers, some will try their luck and quote an outrageous price to anyone who looks wealthy. Even if you can't see another taxi around, don't agree to it. Another taxi is sure to be just around the corner. It is quite practical to begin walking in the direction you want to go. You'll either find one on the side of the road or one will drive past. Cars owned by drivers are often maintained at a high level; taking a smooth air-conditioned trip around Dar is entirely possible if you know the right driver!

    If you plan on hiring a taxi for a long journey, inspect the quality of the tires, which are often extremely worn.

    Don't hesitate to tell the driver to slow down. "Pole Pole" in Swahili.

    '''To/from the airport to/from the city center''' - the average price is 15000 Tzs. This can sometimes be negotiated down, especially if you pay in USD.

    '''To/from city center to/from Msasani Peninsula''' - should run about 7,000 Tzs.

    For a small premium, you can reserve a taxi for the whole day. This can convenient if your visiting a number of places and doing some shopping. You should be able to get it for 30000 Tzs.

    Daladala

    The most common form of public transportation in Dar are mini-vans which go by the name "daladala". These vans ply a specific route with the start and ending point clearly marked on the front of the vehicle.

    You can jump on and off anywhere along the route by simply yelling out, "Shusha!" (pronounced SHOO-sha).

    Their popularity is due to the low cost, TSh300/= per ride (as of Aug 2008), and sheer numbers. However, tourists should be aware that drivers will pile in as many people as possible, there is no a/c, some drive like maniacs, and the overall condition of the vehicles is poor, with many frequently breaking down along the way. That being said, travelers should not hesitate to use them for getting around. Watch out for pickpockets as you get into and leave crowded vehicles.

    It helps if you know a little Kiswahili and are at least a little familiar with the city when using daladalas. If you_fre trying to get to the city center, hop onto any daladala marked 'posta'. They all go to the central post office on Maktaba/Azikiwe St. Since they tend to be very crowded, you should guard your belongings. This is especially true when you are at large bus stations such as Mwenge.

    The best part is that locals will often strike up friendly conversations and are always willing to help you with your Kiswahili. Travel by daladala can be quite enjoyable so long as you are on the correct route.

    See

  • '''The Zoological Gardens'''
  • '''National Museum'''
  • '''Village Museum'''
  • '''Beaches'''
  • Bahari Beach hotel, is about 20km to the north of Dar es Salaam along New Bagamoyo Road. The hotel charges a small fee for non-guests.

    '''Kigamboni''' and '''Kipepeo''', also called "South Beach", are situated across the channel from the Zanzibar ferry. You can get to the other side by ferry, not the same as for Zanzibar. The ferry station is north of the Zanzibar ferry past the Kilimanjaro Kempinski Hotel near the main fish market. You walk onto the ferry which costs 100Tsh. The crossing takes about 5 minutes. Once across, you can hire a taxi to take you to the beaches, most of which are accessed through the various hotels along the coast. Public beaches have all been sold to developers. Hotels, such as the Sunrise, will charge a 5,000Tsh entry fee. 3,000TSh of which is returned to you in the form of food vouchers. Most hotels are about 5km from the ferry and you should be able to get there for 10,000 to 15,000Tsh depending on your negotiating skills. There are also daladalas which ply the road to the beaches.

    Further south from Kipepeo, 35 km, are '''Amani''' [http://www.amanibeach.com] and '''Ras Kutani''' [http://www.selous.com/raskutani/rasoverview.htm] resorts. These are upscale resorts popular with locals and the ex-pat community. Ras Kutani does not accept children under 6.

    Do

    For a great day trip, head out to '''Bongoyo Island'''. Bongoyo is a small, uninhabited island just off the coast. The boat to Bongoyo leaves from Slipway, the upscale set of shops and markets on the Msasani Peninsula, just north of Dar es Salaam. A taxi from the city center should run you 7,000 Tsh. The first boat leaves at 9:30AM, with others at 11:30AM, 1:30PM and 3:30PM, with a minimum of four people. The ferry cost 11,000Tsh and another US$5 for the marine park fee. The return ferries are at 12:30PM, 2:30PM and the last one at 17:00. There is a small restaurant on the island which serves a variety of foods and drinks (chips, fish and chips, egg and chips, beer etc.). Another option is to buy food at the Shoprite at Slipway. You can relax without having to worry about anyone stealing your things. Take a hike around the island, or just relax under a banda on the beach. Bandas are free but a chair cost 1,500Tsh for the day. On the weekend, be sure to get on the first ferry if you want a banda, it gets very busy on Saturday and Sunday. When you come back, you can get ice cream or meal at several of the Slipway restaurants and watch the sun set. You can also check out the Tinga Tinga paintings at the market.

    There are quite a number of night clubs in Dar es Salaam. Probably the most popular is Bilicanas, which is lively and sometimes not quite as full of prostitutes as the other clubs. It is popular with locals and ex-pats alike. Music is varied, depending on the night, from local to Congolese to dance to hip-hop. (The only time I've ever heard hip-hop played right before Aqua's "Barbie Girl"; the place goes nuts when they play the cheesy songs). California Dreamers is another club, but it is too full of prostitutes to recommend. There are numerous other smaller clubs that can be fun, but harder to get to.

    '''Hiking''' is possible in the Pugu Hills, some 12 KM west of the airport. Selected villagers can assist as guide for a hike around the Pugu Hills or to the major cattle market of Dar es Salaam. Arrangements are through the '''Pugu Hills Nature Centre''' ([http://www.puguhills.com]). For directions to Pugu Hills see web site.

    If you like to have a chillout evening, the '''Mediterraneo Lounge''' has a large collection of chill-out music. At the '''Mediterraneo Hotel & Restaurant Lounge''' you can enjoy the fantastic view of the Indian Ocean while sipping your favourite drink, and listening to the best lounge & chill-out music in Dar Es Salaam.

    Buy

    Kangas

    For kangas (or khangas), colorful, sarong-like pieces of cloth with Swahili sayings along the bottom, try Kariakoo market or the cloth market on the streets around it. The market has moved a bit recently, but check around south end of Jamhuri St., where there are many textile shops. Here you can also buy kitenge, twice the length of kangas and usually cut in half to form a complete outfit, for around Tzs 4000 each. Try asking in here if you want something like a dress made to measure. Kariakoo is also a good place for fresh food. Watch out for pickpockets.

    The wholesale textile markets are on Uhuru St. in the Mnazi Mmoja district near Kariakoo, although the number of people and the attention can be overwhelming for some visitors.

  • Afro Fashion. amora Avenue, Opposite Extelecom Building (Celtel Point). amora Avenue. 124066/0784243735. am-5pm. T shirts, Batiks, Khanga, Masai Material,Kikoy, Tye & Dye Clothings,Arts & Crafts, Masai Beads, and other popular souvenirs.

    Carvings/Crafts

    Carvings and other touristy souvenirs can be found all over Dar. Remember that haggling is expected.

    There is a fantastic craft market in Mwenge, the Mwenge Carvers' Market. Here you can watch many of the artists make the crafts that are sold throughout the country (although some crafts sold in Tanzania are imported from Kenya). Prices range from expensive to extremely cheap. There are many stalls selling similar things, and if you are savvy, you might be able to pit the vendors against each other. The perk of the Mwenge market is the sheer volume of crafts to choose from. If you like the style of something at a specific store (they tend to carry items made by one or two artists), and you have some time, you can meet the artist and have them custom make something for you. The market closes at dusk. Shopping around this time gets you the best deals.

    There is a smaller market at Slipway, which is a good place to get Tinga Tinga paintings and large batiks as well.

    Tinga-Tinga Paintings

    Local paintings are often executed in a style unique to Tanzania, "tinga-tinga", named after the artist who founded the style, Edward Said Tinga Tinga. Some good places to find them are at the Slipway market, and in the alley off of Haille Selassie Road on the Peninsula, next to QBar.

    Fancy/Import Goods

    In November 2006, the brand new "Mlimani City" shopping complex opened. As of early 2007, a "Shoprite" supermarket and a "Game" department store, both South African chains, are open for business seven days a week. Although it is a fair distance from the city center, it can be reached by taking a Dalla Dalla or taxi to the Mwenge bus terminal, and walking approximately ten minutes further past the craft market (see below).

    If you run out of things to read, there are some surprisingly well stocked English language bookshops called '''A Novel Idea'''. See the Books section a little further down for a list of stores.

    Electronics/Appliances

    There is a good selection of electronics and appliance vendors on Samora Avenue.

    Books

    There are a number of book stores near the Askari monument at Samora Ave & the Posta Road, selling mostly academic texts / school books.

  • A Novel Idea. lipway, SeaCliff Village, Shoppers Plaza, Steers fast food complex on Ohio Road. 255 22 601088 . ttp://www.anovelideatanzania.com. A local chain that sells a wide selection of imported English language books: novels, childrens' books, reference, non-fiction. A pleasant place to spend a few hours.

  • "Mlimani City" has a bookstore as well.
  • Kariakoo

    If you're looking for an authentic shopping experience, a visit to Kariakoo market, especially on Saturday morning, could be just the thing. '''WARNING:''' This is not for everyone. The market is VERY crowded and for some the smells and noises can be overwhelming. If you're keen but hesitating, it might be best to find a Tanzanian friend or person familiar with the market to help you navigate around. '''DO NOT''' bring any valuables and only bring a small amount of money that you wish to spend, as pickpockets work the area and in the commotion your watch, cell phone, mp3, sunglasses and wallet can be expertly removed, or your nice leather handbag slashed with a razor. I_fve been to the market a fair bit and have witnessed many brazen theft attempts and successful thefts. Even seasoned Kariakoo shoppers occasionally fall prey to these sophisticated teams of thieves.

    '''Haggling''': Haggling is expected when purchasing almost anything in Dar. However, on several occasions I've observed unnecessary arrogant and aggressive behaviour from travelers trying to buy carvings and paintings in the various tourist markets. Although it is true that most merchants quote much higher prices to tourists than locals, sometimes three times the price, negotiations should still be undertaken with respect and good humour. Don't expect to pay the same as a local and don't be insulted when you aren't. The reality is that you probably have more money in your pocket than many Tanzanians see in a year. This also applies to backpackers. Remember the extra dollar or two you paid for that carving will most likely be used to buy food for the family. None of these merchants are rich. If you think it's too expensive leave and look elsewhere, don_ft call them thieves. Kariakoo is the cheapest market in Tanzania. If you want to buy cheap souvenirs, this is the place for you. If you're a ''Muzungu'' (i.e. white person) shop owners will try to charge you much more that is worth. But that will be cheaper than what you get in the city or everywhere else in Tanzania. General rules: African necklaces should not be bought for more than 2000 shilings (the correct price is TS1000 but you won't get that price easily), small drums should be bought for as much as TS4-5000 and soft stone products (hearts, plates, small animals, jewelry boxes etc) should not be purchased for more than 10,000 shilings.

    Tanzanite

    When it comes to expensive souvenirs, Tanzania has cornered the market with a gemstone that can only be found (mined) in Tanzania, hence the name Tanzanite. Shops selling this exquisite blue stone are located in all major cities and towns, especially those popular with tourists like Zanzibar, Arusha and Dar. Your biggest problem will be knowing that what you're getting is the real thing and worth the money you're shelling out for it.

    The rule of thumb is the darker the gem the more expensive it is. Light colored Tanzanite is genuine just not as sought after as the darker stones. But like all things there is much more to a stone's value than just its colour so do your homework if you plan on spending a lot on one of them.

    Grading is on a alphabetical scale with AAA being the best and B being the lightest and cheapest. Expect to pay as much as US$850 per carat for AAA. If, like most visitors, you're new to this gem, buying from a reputable shop, such as Lothys at the Kilimanjaro Hotel Kempinski or Tanzanite Dream might be more expensive but you're assured of what you're getting. Nonetheless, there are several other good shops around Dar where you can get nice pieces or simply buy the gems and have them set back home. Like all things, negotiating is key.

    Eat

    You can get all kinds of delicious meals in Dar. With a large native South Asian population, the Indian food is amazing. Although scattered all over the city, some of the best places are found in and around Zanaki Street.

    $ = Cheap (1,000 - 5,000Tsh for a meal for one) $$ = Average (5,000 - 10,000Tsh) $$$ = Moderate (10,000 - 20,000) $$$$ = Expensive (20,000+)

    Tanzanian

    Traditional Tanzanian food can be had on almost any street. From grilled meats (mishikaki) to BBQ corn on the cob, and chips and eggs (chips mayai). If you're looking for something a little more sanitary, there are a number of small hotels and restaurants that serve a buffet style meal at lunch time which offers a variety of Tanzanian stews, deep fried fish and chicken, and vegetables. Some good choices:

  • '''Summy's''' (aka "Street Chicken") ($) Jamhuri Street NE of Morogoro Road. Grilled marinated chicken, mishkaki, Indian food.
  • '''City Garden''' ($$) on Garden Avenue, SE side, between Ohio Street and Pemba Road. Fine outdoor ambience, extensive menu, affordable prices, fast service, free bread, real butter, coconut sauces, death by chocolate.
  • '''New Africa Hotel''' on the corner of Sokoine Drive and Maktaba/Azikiwe Street.
  • '''Chef's Pride''' ($$) Chagga St. A very popular local eatery with Tanzanian food, plus pizza and Indian.
  • Local "hoteli's" or restaurants can be found on just about every major street. Most serve ugali, rice or chapati with beans, meat or fish stews, and mishitaki (grilled kebabs).
  • For something even more upscale, try the Sunday Brunch at the '''Kilimanjaro Hotel'''. The restaurant on the ground floor offers a wide variety of Western dishes but also includes several local favourites taken up a notch. It's not cheap, about 30,000 Tzs per person, but if you're interested in trying Tanzanian cuisine without risking gastrointestinal complications, if you're from the USA(heartburn country), it's your best bet.

    Indian

    City Center

  • '''The Retreat''' ($$), between Kisutu and Jamhuri Streets, is open from Tuesday to Sunday and serves excellent vegetarian southern Indian and is a popular place with locals and ex-pats. Try a Thali for 6,000Tsh.
  • '''K Tea Shop''' ($) just off of Libya Street, has great kebabs other Indian snacks.
  • '''Alcove''' on Samora avenue is the place for you if you like Indian and Chinese food and especially if you're vegetarian.
  • '''Red Onion''' ($$) across Maktaba Street from the YMCA, in the Haidery Plaza building. Has a wide selection of Indian dishes and a nice rooftop dining area. Very cold beers.
  • Peninsula and around

  • '''Anghiti''' ($$$) (near the US Embassy) on New Bagamoyo road just after the Kawawa intersection is excellent.
  • '''Copper Chimney''' ''+255 22'' 270 1074 (on New Bagamoyo Rd) is also very good.
  • '''Istana''' ''+255 22'' 761 1345, ''+255'' 786 264 858 (Ali Hassan Mwinyi Road) Malaysian and pan-Asian, serves an excellent buffet; cuisines change per day of the week.
  • Chinese, Japanese & South-East Asian

    City Center

  • '''The New Africa Hotel''' has a popular Thai restaurant on the roof. Some nights it serves all-you-can-eat buffet.
  • '''Oriental''' ($$$$) at The Kilimanjaro Hotel serves a variety of Japanese, Thai and Malaysian dishes.
  • Peninsula

  • '''Osaka''' ($$$$) off of Toure, serves Korean and Japanese, including very good sushi, look for the sign on the left when heading towards Sea Cliff.
  • '''Goong''' ($$$) serves authentic Korean food and are on the dirt road just before the Slipway.
  • '''Azuma''' ($$$) at the Slipway. Sushi.
  • '''SweetEazy''' ($$$) at the Oyster Bay Complex on Toure Drive. Roof top as well as inside dining area. Live music some nights. Good bar.
  • Italian

    City Center

  • '''Oliveti''' ($$$$) at the Movenpick serves upscale Italian food with a bit of a twist.
  • Peninsula and surrounding

  • '''Saverio's''' has Italian-style pizza and pasta dishes.
  • '''Trattoria Jan''' ($$$) on Kimwere has excellent food, but is a little hard to get to if you don't have a car.
  • '''Mediterraneo Hotel & Restaurant''' If you like to have a relaxing dinner while viewing the Indian Ocean, this is the is the perfect place, you can find here a wide choice of Italian/Mediterranean dishes, homemade pasta and delicious seafood dishes.
  • '''Shooter's''' Steak & burgers. off Old Bagamoyo Road.
  • '''Noah's Ark''' Italian restaurant. off Old Bagamoyo Road.
  • Ethiopian

  • '''Addis in Dar''' ($$$) (on Ursino Street, in the Regency Estates neighborhood) A little-known and out of way restaurant is superb. This Ethiopian restaurant offers excellent food costing about Tzs 7,000 per dish. They serve chicken, beef, lamb and vegetarian dishes (mostly stews, but some come without sauce) on a bed of injera, a moist and springy Ethiopian flatbread. The decor is fantastic and the atmosphere is excellent as well, with a rooftop dining area. Try the Ethiopian honey wine before your meal and the beautifully-presented coffee after.
  • Middle-Eastern

  • '''Al-Basha''' ($$) is the best middle-eastern food in Dar. They have two locations. City center on the corner of Morogoro and India Street and at the Mayfair Plaza in Mikocheni near the US Embassy.
  • '''Nargila''' ($$) don't go for dinner - go for appetizers (hummus is great), the extensive drinks menu, hookahs and the belly dancer. Oysterbay, near the Ugandan High Commission (you must tell taxi this or he will never find it). Owned by an Israeli woman, apparently the place to go for all the Jewish holidays (see [http://mahlersonsafari.blogspot.com/2006/08/wherever-there-is-coca-cola-there-are.html]). Phone +255756547754.
  • Cafe and Bistros

    Food Courts

    '''SeaCliff Village''' and '''Slipway''' (peninsula), '''Harbor View Suites Mall''' (Samora Ave), and the '''Steer's Complex''' (Ohio Street) have multiple fast-food type restaurants in one place, as well as shopping. Limited menus of pizza, burgers, indian, sandwiches, ice cream, etc.

    Upscale

    For upscale meals, visit the '''Movenpick''' (formerly the Royal Palm Hotel), The '''Holiday Inn''', '''Kilimanjaro Kempenski Hotel''' in the city center.

    All of these hotels offer excellent fixed-price breakfast buffets, which often include sparkling wine, and can be a good value if you are hungry or want to escape for a while.

  • '''Zens Bar & Restaurant''' open every day from 6.30am to 11pm. Located in Mikocheni _gB_h at Exclusive Resort Opposite St. Laureate Int. School, Kwa Warioba, Msikiti street. +255 22 278 0440 EXT.126
  • '''Spurs''' SeaCliff Village. ($$$) Good burgers, steaks, Mexican food, salad bar, milk shakes, ice cream desserts. Play area for children.
  • Budget Eats

  • '''Chef's Pride''' Near the budget hotels in the Indian quarter. It caters mostly to tourists, but is very reasonably priced.
  • '''Milap''' is a vegetarian Indian Restaurant with very cheap prices.
  • '''Subway''' near the YWCA that is air-conditioned, and a nice treat if you're hankering for some food of a western nature.
  • '''YWCA''' near the Cathedral, has a delicious and cheap canteen where you can order a traditional Tanzanian meal for under Tzs 2,000.
  • '''Steers Complex''' on Ohio street has several restaurants in one area. Burgers, pizzas and Chinese stir fry.
  • But the best place to eat, both in terms of price and atmosphere, is on the street. Places to try include the corner of Morogoro road and Jamhuri street, or the large open space in front of the Dar Express bus company ticket office. Chips mayai (chips in an omelet) should be about 700 or 800 shillings.

    Drink

    You should only drink bottled water. A 1.5 liter bottle will cost you only 450 shillings, but you can also drink tap water if you've purified it with iodine tablets or boiled it.

    '''Kilimanjaro''', '''Serengeti''' and '''Safari''' (a stronger beer, 5.5% alcohol) are local beers and popular with Tanzanian's and foreigners.

    Import beer available in Dar include '''Tusker''', '''Ndovu''', '''Stella Artois''', '''Castel Lager''' and '''Heineken'''.

    '''Konyagi''' is a popular local gin, and its variant '''Konyagi Ice''' is comparable to hard lemonade and other sweet drinks.

    '''Krest''', bottled locally by Coca Cola, offer Club Soda, Tonic Water and Bitter Lemon drinks. '''Stoney Tangawizi''' (ginger ale) is one of the more popular soda drinks. Sodas come in glass bottles and you'll usually be asked to return the bottle or pay extra to take it, but they don't usually like that.

    All of the large hotels have full bars with air conditioning. Many offer 2-for-1 happy hour specials in the late afternoon/early evening.

    City Center

  • '''Florida Inn''' near the UN building by the ferry port, offers South African Castle (pronounced "Castel") on tap, as well as nice air conditioning and a pool table.
  • '''New Protein Bar''', down the street from Chef's Pride. Good food and cheap. Sidewalk seating. The only bar in the Indian section of Dar near the budget hotels.
  • Peninsula & Around

  • '''Zens Bar & Restaurant''' Zens Bar has a wide selection of drinks in a tranquil atmosphere. Find us in Mikocheni _gB_hat Exclusive Resort Opposite St. Laureate Int. School, Kwa Warioba, Msikiti street. CALL US AT: +255 2202780440 Ext.126
  • '''Q Bar''', tel +255 22 211 2667, +255 754 282 474, Haille Selassie Road, Oysterbay area. A large bar and restaurant which can get crowded and noisy when major football games are shown on giant screens or on Friday night when there is live music. Daily drink specials.
  • '''O'Willies Irish Whiskey Tavern''' tel ''+255 22'' 260 1273 at the Peninsula Hotel, near the Slipway. Excellent selection of import beers, especially Guinness. Outside deck overlooking the bay. Inside, karaoke & trivia some nights.
  • Sleep

    The cost of accommodation can vary from 1500 Tzs a night for very basic rooms to hundreds of dollars for the '''Movenpick'''. The '''YMCA''' (near Posta daladala stand) is the main place to stay and meet fellow backpackers. It fills up quickly. Items left in locked rooms at the '''Jambo Inn''' near Mnazi Moja have a way of disappearing, which can turn a cheap bed into a very expensive night.

    Budget

  • '''Pop Inn Hotel''', Sofia Kawawa Street, single from 4000 Tsh, double from 6000 Tsh. It might be a dump of a place with tiny, dirty, windowless rooms, but clearly the cheapest in town, and it seldom gets fully booked. Due to the hiking price of oil both Pop Inn and Tamarine have increased the prices per room per night to 10.000 for a single; Double or Triple: 15,000. Same rates apply to Tamarine as well. Also it is important to note that both places are conveniently located only 10 minutes away from the city center, walking distance. Both places have lockpads so bring your locks with you.
  • '''Tamarine Guest House''', Sofia Kawawa Street, single from 4000 Tsh, double from 6000 Tsh. Slightly better than the Pop Inn, but often fully booked.
  • '''Q Bar and Guest House''', tel ''+255 22'' 211 2667, ''+255'' 754 282 474, qbar@hotmail.com, qbar@cats-net.com, Haille Selassie Road, Oysterbay area. A little further out of town in the Oysterbay area. Q Bar and Guest House has very clean rooms starting at USD $35, and a backpacker room for USD$15. Downstairs a large bar and restaurant which can get crowded and noisy when major football games are shown on giant screens or on Friday night when there is live music.
  • '''Transit Motel Ukonga''' [http://www.transitmotels.com], tel ''+255 22'' 2843300. Located close to the Dar Es Salaam International Airport. Handy for guests with early departure flights. Small but clean houses with private showers, split ACs in each room. Rate from US$30.0 per room per night, B&B.
  • '''Transit Motel Airport''' [http://www.transitmotels.com], tel ''+255 22'' 2842177. Also located close to the Dar Es Salaam International Airport. Handy for guests with early departure flights. Clean houses with private showers, split ACs in each room. Rate from US$30.0 per room per night, B&B.
  • '''Heritage Motel''' [http://www.heritagemotel.co.tz], tel ''+255 33'' 211 7471. Located in Bridge street, just off Samora Avenue and near the Zanzibar ferry station. New hotel with very clean, large rooms starting from US$60.
  • If you don't want to spend too much and get a clean room together with a good service the '''CEFA Hostel''' could be the solution you're looking for. Situated in Mikocheni B, on Old Bagamoyo Road, this hostel offers accommodation, including breakfast, starting from $25. The hostel is run by CEFA, an Italian NGO that throughout this activity finances its rural development projects in the inner part of the country. Very kind staff, wi-fi connection available free for guests, a wonderful terrace with view on the sea and the possibilty to eat excellent italian food for less than $4. The place usually packs up quite quickly so it's better to book with some advance.
  • '''Safari Inn''', tel 022-2138101, around Libya Street, has singles with private bathroom from usd 15 per night with simple breakfast. The hotel has an internet cafe, and there are restaurants nearby.
  • '''YWCA''', just next to the YMCA, offers singles with fan for 10 000TSH per night and "family rooms", which can be had by one person, with small fan for 8000TSH.
  • '''Econo Lodge''', tel [+255 22] 211 6048, close to the Safari Inn, has nice single rooms with private bathroom for 18000TSH per night.
  • '''Passionist Fathers House''' is in Mikocheni B situated near to the CEFA hostel, [+255] 27 80 144 cheap, clean rooms are available when Passionist Fathers are not visiting. Rooms have mosquito nets, showers, air conditioning, wireless internet connection and very friendly staff. Contact ajnguma@yahoo.com
  • Dar also has many inexpensive guest houses outside of the city center, particularly in the area south of the university. If you feel like experiencing Dar as most of its residents do, ask for help finding a cheap "gesti" and be prepared to go off the beaten track.

    Middle Class

    There are plenty of expensive hotels in and around Dar but here are some modern hotels which are reasonably priced:
  • The '''Peacock Hotel''' in Dar center is an air conditioned hotel with a small reception but some luxurious rooms. For $80 (after a small bit of haggling) you will have a double room overlooking the park. The hotel has a restaurant but no swimming pool and wireless internet access.
  • Next door to the Peacock is the '''Starlight Hotel''', which isn't luxurious but very secure. You can get a double room for under $40.
  • About 5 km north of the US Embassy, on New Bagamoyo Road, is the '''Peacock Hotel''' (formerly Millennium Towers Hotel). An a/c room at this 5 star hotel can be had, with a bit of haggling, for $75, including breakfast and internet access. Although this beautiful hotel has a swimming pool, a number of bars and restaurants, a small shopping mall right next door, and the only cinema in town within walking distance, be warned that there is nothing else worth seeing or doing within 5 km, and traffic can get so bad at certain times of the day that going anywhere, especially by dalla dalla, requires Herculean patience, copious amounts of water, and a copy of War and Peace, which should be just about right for the ride to and from the hotel.
  • '''Harbour View Suites''' [http://www.harbourview-suites.com], tel: +255 22 2124040. Harbour View Suites on Samora Avenue occupies the top floors of a modern office building. Rooms are large and very comfortable and have a fully fitted kitchen. Rates start at US$ 110. Excellent breakfast for US$7,50. On the ground floor a well stocked supermarket, an Italian pizza and coffee house for take-outs and a subway sandwich shop. Internet access in all rooms and in the business center. Harbour View is currently (October 2007) fitting out two more floors and should have a restaurant and fitness center soon.
  • '''Mediterraneo Hotel & Restaurant''', is located in Kawe about 15km North of the city center, overlooking the Indian Ocean. Rooms have: air conditions,television, safe locker in the room. The swimming pool is 10 m from the beach, and there is a free Internet Point at the reception, and wireless access around the bar & the lounge area.
  • '''Exclusive Lodge''' is in the heart of Mikocheni situated at Msikiti Street opposite St. Laureate International School, Kwa Warioba, [+255] 22 278 0440 Ext.126. 10km from the Mbezi beaches, 20km from the airport and 10km from the city center. All rooms have a mini-bar, a TV set with Satellite channels, ironing board and mosquito nets.
  • Slipway. 255.22.260.0893. On the peninsula. Rooms for $90. In a small complex of shops and restaurants.

  • '''Pugu Hills''', a 6 hectare Nature Centre, just 12 KM from Dar es Salaam airport. There is a pool and hiking opportunities. The Centre also has a short 1 KM nature trail on the premises. For overnight stay there are 4 lovely elevated bandas in the forested area which cost 80 to 100USD including breakfast for 2 persons. Camping with your own tent is possible for 10USD per person. For visiting '''Pugu Hills''' booking is required by phone +255 (0) 754 565 498 or via the website ([http://www.puguhills.com]).
  • Splurge

    Dar also has its fair share of hotels which cater largely to foreigners traveling here for work.

    City center:

  • '''Kilimanjaro Kempinski''' [http://www.kempinski.com] tel ''+255 22'' 213 1111. On the harbor, located conveniently in city center, this luxury hotel offers rooms for USD$225 and up. Great breakfast buffet, and a world class spa with Thai masseuses.
  • '''Southern Sun''' tel ''+255 22'' 213 7575. A bit far from city center but still fine to walk during the day.
  • '''Movenpick Royal Palm''' ''+255 22'' 211 2416. On Ohio Road at the edge of city center.
  • Msasani Peninsula: In September 2007, the '''Sea Cliff Hotel''' was almost completely gutted by fire. This was a popular upscale hotel on the Peninsula with a beautiful view on the Indian Ocean. It has now resumed operations.

  • '''Alexander's hotel''' [http://www.alexanders-tz.com].
  • If you're wanting to escape the city, there are a few upscale hotels just outside of Dar. Just off the road to Bagamoyo, New Bagamoyo road, about a 45 minute drive from the city center, without traffic of course, there is the '''White Sands Hotel'''. Some people may like this option as there are several scuba diving schools situated in and around the hotel.

    <sleep name="Jangwani Sea Breeze Resort" phone="+255 2647215" email="gmjangwani@eclipsehotelsafrica.com" url="http://jangwaniseabreezeresort.com">Eclipse Group of Hotels</sleep>

    Hannes Prinsloo runs '''Sea Breeze Marine Ltd''' from the water park adjacent to the White Sands Hotel. His staff are professional and friendly. E-mail him at [mailto:info@seabreezemarine.org info@seabreezemarine.org] Information about the diving can be found on the website www.seabreezemarine.org [http://www.seabreezemarine.org]or call +255 754 783 241.

    Get out

  • '''Zanzibar''': There is a ferry to Zanzibar which leaves four times a day. The price varies from $35 to $45 per person and takes 2-3+ hours. The one that costs $45 takes you to Zanzibar in one and a half hour. The cheaper one takes 3 hours and is often overcrowded. Tickets can be bought from the docks near the German church and all tickets for tourists, regardless of which ferry you want to travel on, are bought from the 'flying horse' ticket window. Although it is improving, watch out for touts, scams, and pick-pockets in this area. Buy your tickets only from the ticket windows. Although you might manage to save some money by getting a resident rate, you could also get into a lot of trouble without a resident permit.
  • :'''Watch out for the Ferry scam''': There may be a very well developed scam going on at the ferry dock. The taxi drivers seem to be in on the scam and will purposely take you to the wrong booth where a crew of friendly liars will help with your bag and assure you that you are at the right place. They charge $35 but the ferry is a very slow boat that takes goods and vehicles as well as people and takes over 7 hours to arrive!

  • '''Morogoro''': About three hours from Dar es Salaam, one can visit the NGO APOPO in Morogoro (on the way to Mikumi National Parc). This organization started in 1998 to train giant rats to help remove land mines in Mozambique and recently started investigating the potential use of this low-cost "technology" for the detection of TB pathogens.[http://www.apopo.org/newsite/content/index.htm]
  • '''Organizing safaris or travel out of Dar'''

    You can organize all safaris and travel around Tanzania from Dar es Salaam. There are several good travel agents that can help you organize anything.

    '''Kearleys Travel and Tours''' [http://www.kearsleys.com] which has offices in the Movenpick and at the Sea Cliff Village and '''Emslies Travel Ltd''' [http://www.emsliestravel.com/index.php] across from the Movenpick are excellent. You can also contact many safari lodges directly to arrange accommodation. Be advised that in many cases, lodges and safari tours require cash payment. More and more places are starting to accept credit cards, but do not assume that you can pay with a credit card.

    In the south and around Dar '''Foxes Safari''' [http://tanzaniasafaris.info] run several safari and beach lodges. Mikumi, Ruaha, Sadaani, and Lazy Lagoon, just to name a few places they operate.