'''Sucre''' is in the Department of Chuquisaca, Bolivia. The city centre is on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Understand

Famed throughout Bolivia for its pretty, well-kept centre, and for its agreeable climate, Sucre ? _ela ciudad blanca_f or white city ? is probably the most tranquila city in Bolivia (or perhaps South America). While it offers specific attractions in the form of historic buildings and renowned theatre as well as indigenous culture and prehistoric sites in the surrounding towns and countryside, the highlight of Sucre might be its relaxed atmosphere, which detains many travellers for far longer than expected.

Sucre_fs history has always been closely tied to that of Potosi. The city rose to prominence as an attractive retreat for wealthy and influential figures connected with Potosi_fs silver mines. Although Sucre can be considered a _ecolonial_f city, its architecture is more an example of later, neo-classical style. The dishevelled, crooked streets of Potosi better reflect the chaotic urban planning of early colonialism and the silver rush, while orderly, elegant Sucre is a result of the wealth later spawned by the silver trade. Sucre_fs original name, Ciudad de la Plata de la Nueva Toledo (city of the silver of New Toledo) reflects the huge significance silver played in the city_fs development.

In the mid sixteenth century the Spanish King Philip II established an Audiencia in Sucre with a jurisdiction covering what was then known as Upper Peru, that is, the land spanning south and east of Cusco and encompassing what is today Bolivia, Paraguay, and northern Chile and Argentina. Although the Audiencia conferred a degree of autonomy on Sucre, it was still a subdivision of the Viceroyalty of Peru. In the early seventeenth century Sucre grew, with the founding of a bishopric, as well as monasteries belonging to various religious orders. Today Sucre is still a centre for the Catholic church in Bolivia.

In 1624 St. Francis Xavier College of Chuquisaca was founded in the city. This university is still operating, and is considered one of the finest in the country, as well as being the second oldest university in the Americas. Sucre_fs football team in the Bolivian league is Universitario, and originates from St. Francis Xavier College.

Sucre has long been known as a centre for progressive thought, and in 1809 it was from here that one of the first independence movements in South America began. Despite this Bolivia was one of the last South American countries to gain independence, in 1825. When independence was finally established in Bolivia Sucre became the capital of the new nation.

As the silver industry waned in importance, power shifted from Sucre to La Paz, and at the end of the nineteenth century the seat of Bolivian government was moved to La Paz. Sucre remains the constitutional capital of Bolivia, but only the judicial branch of government is based here. This remains a contentious issue for Sucrenas.

Sucre today has become a more conservative city, as the old wealth and power of the city is threatened by the Evo Morales government and its plans for reform and wealth redistribution. During the 2009 referendum Sucre voted emphatically against Morales_f proposed new constitution. Morales remains a very unpopular figure in the city.

Get in

By Bus

The bus terminal is about 2 kilometers from the city center. A taxi to the centre should cost 4 Bs. This is per person not per vehicle. If you are not comfortable sharing a taxi, you should make this clear.

  • The official prices for buses to and from Sucre are as follows.
  • La Paz - Sucre: minimum 45Bs, normal bus 69Bs, semi-cama 90 Bs, full cama 135Bs.

    Oruro - Sucre: minimum 30Bs, normal bus 50Bs, semi-cama 60Bs, full cama 95Bs.

    Potosi - Sucre: minimum 10Bs, normal bus 17Bs, semi-cama 25Bs, full cama 35Bs.

    Santa Cruz - Sucre: minimum 35Bs, normal bus 80Bs, semi-cama 90Bs, full cama 110Bs.

    Cochabamba - Sucre: minimum 30Bs, normal bus 52Bs, semi-cama 60Bs, full cama 100Bs.

    Tarija - Sucre: minimum 60Bs, normal bus 83Bs.

  • For buses to Uyuni, Tupiza and the Southwest, change in Potosi.
  • Buses leave hourly for Potosi and take 3-4 hours (you can also take a taxi for about 35Bs per person, it will take about two hours and the driver will go very very fast).
  • All other destinations are an overnight ride away. Buses to La Paz or Cochabamba take about 12 hours. Buses to Santa Cruz take about 14 hours and pass through Samaipata.
  • The roads out of Sucre are fairly rough, with the exception of the road to Potosi, which you also take to reach Oruro or La Paz. For this reason think hard about upgrading to a semi-cama or full cama bus. The overnight normal bus to Cochabamba is definitely not fun.
  • Tickets generally only go on sale the day that the bus will depart, so to be sure of getting a seat you need to arrive at the terminal before midday. Many tour agencies will offer to book tickets ahead for you, but understand that this is not how things are normally done in Sucre, so expect to pay more, and make sure you check whether you need to redeem the ticket from the agency for a ticket from the bus line.
  • Whichever route you take or level of bus you opt for, do not expect to find a toilet on board. Do expect the bus to stop in the middle of the night somewhere close to a cheese vendor.
  • By Plane

    Since the government of Bolivia pulled the plug on the national carrier, Lloyd Aero Boliviano, no international airlines currenlty serve Sucre's Lajas Tambo airport. Aerosur, a domestic carrier, operates flights to Santa Cruz, La Paz, and Cochabama. Aerosur Route Map [http://www.aerosur.com/Pages/pgSeccion.aspx?id=205].

    The airport is about 10 km from the center, and the only reliable transportation to the center is by taxi. The airport is notorious for closures in inclement weather. Sometimes no flights arrive or depart for several days! It is always worth checking ahead before arriving as the airport has limited waiting areas. It does have several shops, including a shop selling the chocolate the city is locally famous for.

    Get around

    Sucre is a small town with regular hop-on buses and plentiful taxis. A tourist bus or private transport is needed to visit some of the attractions outside of Sucre, such as Tarabuco market and the dinosaur footprints. Mostly you will not move more than five blocks from Plaza 25 de Mayo, the main square.

    See

  • '''Cal Orkco''' is a collection of ''dinosaur footprints'' impressioned on a 70 degree wall of a cement quarry, which used to be a lake floor. To visit it take the Dino Truck at 9:30am, 12:00am or 2:30pm from the corner of Plaza 25 de Mayo. The guided visit takes about 2 hours and cost 30 Bs.
  • '''La Casa de la Libertad''' on the Central Plaza is housed in a well restored and maintained convent from the colonial era. The chapel was the meeting hall where Bolivian independence was declared on 25 May 1825. The museum includes a number of paintings and objects related to Bolivian history, especially to the independence movement and the struggles breaking away from Spanish domination.
  • Museo Textil Etnografico ASUR. alle San Alberto 413. ttp://www.bolivianet.com/asur/museoin.htm. on- Sat 0830- 1200; 1430 - 1800. 6 Bs. Regional textiles, some works for sale.

    Do

    Sucre is generally known as a great city to kick back in. It is a popular place for people to study Spanish or volunteer, and many who visit end up staying for far longer than expected. While the city centre can be seen in a day (add another day or two if you like museums, churches, cafes, or moving slowly), the surrounding countryside is rich is other attractions, from traditional villages to dinosaur footprints to trekking through the mountains of the Cordillera de las Frailes.

  • Plaza 25 de Mayo is the heart of Sucre, surrounded by the Cathedral, the office of Prefecture, the town hall, the historic Case de la Libertad, as well as a swag of restaurants and bars. Get a shoe shine (don't think by wearing flip-flops you will deter the shoe-shine kids), use the free wifi, grab some snacks, or just watch the world go by. The lion-flanked statue is of Mariscal Jose Antonio Sucre, Simon Bolivar's right hand man and the first president of Bolivia.
  • Sucre is a popular place to learn Spanish and to volunteer. There are many Spanish schools and volunteer projects including the Fox Language Academy[http://www.foxacademysucre.com], which is a useful place to learn Spanish, or volunteer as an English teacher. Fifty percent of the study fee at Fox goes towards paying for Bolivians to learn English. Fox are well connected and can also put people in touch with other language schools and other volunteer projects, such as orphanages and hospitals.
  • Walk up calle Dalence, Grau or Calvo from the central plaza to la Recoleta. Although there are often events here, as well as a church and museum, the main attraction is definitely the view of Sucre from the Mirador cafe. The drinks and food here are better than most and not overly expensive. Adjacent Hotel Kolping also has excellent views and a lunch buffet.
  • Take a stroll in '''Parque Bolivar''', the city_Ls favourite lovers_L hangout. Just don't step on the grass. At the upper end of Parque Bolivar stands Bolivia's supreme court At the lower end is estacion Aniceto Arce, Sucre train station which is currently not in use. If you don't get your fill of old trains in Uyuni, there is another one within the station precinct. Ask permission from the token security guard before you enter, as there is a guard dog here (although she is usually playing with her puppy).
  • Several agencies offer tandem paragliding at Bs 450 - 900 (depending on the size of the group). It is a 2 hour very bumpy ride each way to the take off spot. In essence, you will spend the whole day for a 10 minutes flight. Contact Joy Ride Cafe or Locot's (under 'Eat' and 'Drink') if interested.
  • Condortrekkers is a tour agency that offers city tours, as well as single or multi-day treks into the surrounding countryside. All profits from tours are used to support other local NGOs and communities. Treks into the countryside focus on understanding the local cultures and ecology and offer the chance to stay with local communities. It is also possible to volunteer with Condortrekkers. For more information visit [http://www.condortrekkers.org/ Condortrekkers].
  • Buy

    Sucre is famous for it's tapestries, which are sold at Tarabucco market and shops all around the town. Different tribes or family groups from the villages that surround Sucre all have their own unique style, which is shown in their work by using different colours or symbols. Some tapestries can take up to a year for one person to make, depending on size and complexity. Travellers can help support this tradition by purchasing the tapestries from Tarabucco market, or - at a cheaper price - from the many shops in the town. The best tapestries are sold in Fair Trade stores and at the ethnographic museum.

    Locally knitted sweaters, scarves and related items are a good bargain, especially those made from alpaca wool.

    Sucre is also famous for its chocolates, and those sold by Para Ti are probably the best. It will not put the finer chocolate shops of Brussels out of business, but Para Ti chocolates are a tasty souvenir available at several shops near the central plaza and at the airport.

    Eat

    Sucre offers a wide range of eateries from street vendors and stalls in the markets to elegant restaurants. The large numbers of students mean there are many interesting but inexpensive places to get a filling meal. Probably the cheapest lunches are had upstairs in the market.

  • Several small Saltena eateries at the lower end of Calle San Alberto.
  • '''Joy Ride Cafe''' [http://www.joyridebol.com/ Joy Ride Cafe], Calle Nicolas Ortiz 14, + 591 4 64 25544 (Fax + 591 4 691 3600, Cell phone + 591 711 73146, Email info@joyridebol.com ),is an Italian (formerly Dutch) run bar, restaurant and tour operator. International snacks (Try the Bossche Bol), good and big dishes of other international food (good steaks Bs 35-40) and has a good vibe.
  • '''Pizzaria Napolitana''', 25 de Mayo #30, Pastas, pizzas and big sandwiches. A lunch menu cost Bs. 25, -somewhat overpriced, but serves until 5 PM.
  • '''La Taverna''', Acre 835, in the courtyard of the Alliance Francaise. Good French inspired food but using local ingredients and wine.
  • Bohemo_Ls. unin 433. djacent to central market on the former Peatonal. course lunch 15 Bs.
  • El Germen. an Alberto 231. Serves a fusion of delicious Bolivian and German cooking. All lunch specials (16Bs) are vegetarian, but you can order meat dishes from the menu (menu dishes take a lot longer to come). Also has great desserts. The restaurant fills up quickly for lunch, so arrive early.
  • Freya. oa 751. Located within a gym, Freya serves up healthy, tasty vegetarian lunch specials (10Bs). The staff are very friendly and lunch is served until later than other vegetarian options.
  • Florin. olivar 567. Quickly becoming one of Sucre's most popular venues, Florin serves a mix of Bolivian and international dishes, including shwarma and an Indonesian feat for two (or more).
  • Locot's. olivar 465. More bar than restaurant, but with a big menu of Bolivian and international dishes and friendly staff. A tour agency is attached.

    Drink

    Most places on the main square, and down the first block of Calle Nicolas Ortiz, are heavily gringofied, -for better or worse. Sunday is by far the slowest night.
  • In the market there are many stalls selling all kinds of fruit juices and salads. Particularly recommended is the multi-vitaminico, a mix of basically everything in the stall - cereales, fruits, vegetables, and sometimes egg, beer, honey etc - which is a great pre-hike breakfast or a great post-drinking pick-me-up.
  • Alaska. alle Arce 415. Karaoke upstairs, and dance floor down.
  • El Alfarero. rce 262. PM - 10 PM. University students run a cheap and cosy cafe with some board games and pingpong table. Also screens films. Students receive a discount.
  • '''Bibliocafe''', near the Joy Ride Cafe got mixed drinks at moderate prices. Also one of the few places in Sucre to serve Taquina Amber, one of Bolivia's best brews. Plays classic rock and pop. Also serves food. There are actually two Bibliocafes: Bibliocafe is more relaxed and intimate; Bibliocafe 'Concert' has some live music and is more energetic.
  • Florin. olivar 567. Nightly happy hour from 9.30 to 10.30 sees two-for-one drinks and a regular crowd. Has thumping events from time to time. Particularly popular with locals and the resident gringo population.
  • '''Joy Ride Cafe''' [http://www.joyridebol.com/ Joy Ride Cafe], Calle Nicolas Ortiz 14, is also a good place at night. It's popular with the more wealthy Bolivians as well as travellers.
  • Menfis. olivar 650. arge beer 12 Bs. Warm up venue for young locals on weekends.
  • Stigma. alle Bolivar. ntry 10 Bs, small beer 10 Bs. Biggest club in town, -young crowd. Fills up at 2 AM.
  • Tabaco_Ls Soul. alle San Alberto. ever ends.. rinks 15 Bs, 0,6 l beer 11,5 Bs.. Plays rock. Check your bill!
  • Locot's. olivar 465. One of the most popular bars in town. Has a happy hours starting from 10pm with a selection of drinks for 10Bs. Also has a big menu, friendly staff and events such as salsa night from time to time.

    Sleep

  • '''Hostal Cruz de Popayan''' (also ''Backpackers Sucre Hostel'')[http://www.hotelsucre.com], Calle Loa 881 esq Colon, email popayan@boliviahostels.com, Phone (4)6440889, www.HotelSucre.com. Located in a 17th century colonial house. It has all the services travellers want: laundry service, kitchen use, bookswap, fast internet and breakfast included in the price. Dormbed US$4.00 / Single US$6.00 / Double US$5.00
  • Amigo Hostel. alle Colon 125. wo blocks from main plaza. 4) 6461706. migo@boliviahostels.com. 91 (4) 6461706. ttp://www.hostelsucre.com. 1:00. 0:30. ingle, shared bath 36 Bs, double shared bath 61 Bs, dormbed shared bath 25 Bs. Breakfast Included. Laundry service, Fast internet, spanish lessons one by one basis, lockers, gas powered hot showers, bar.
  • '''Hostal Austria''' (opposite the busterminal), is a good and comfortable place if you're looking for something close to the busterminal. Single with shared bathroom Bs.35 / with private bathroom Bs60.
  • Hostal Charcas. alle Ravelo 62. ne block from the square. 45 3972. ingle, shared bath 40 Bs, with bath 70 Bs, Breakfast 7 Bs. Low pressure on hot water.

    Learn

  • [http://www.foxacademysucre.com/ Fox Language Academy]
  • Cope

  • To extend your visa go to the '''migration office''' on calle Bustillos.
  • There are several small book exchanges around town; try ''Joyride Cafe'' or ''Backpackers Sucre''.
  • Internet is mostly plow. Places on the central plaza are generally over-priced; you should be paying about 2Bs per hour. One of the best places for internet, and one of the few to have serviceable Skype, is on the corner of calle Calvo and calle Padilla.
  • An incomplete list of places with wifi: Joy Ride Cafe, Florin, Locot's, Kulturcafe Berlin, Hotel Kolping, Amsterdam, La Posada. There is also free wifi in the central plaza and in the food court about supermarket SAS.
  • Get out

  • A popular one-day or half-day excursion is to the Sunday market at Tarabuco. Any tour agency can arrange a tour, or there are frequent vans and trucks on the road to and from Tarabuco. It takes about two hours to reach the town. It is important to leave early; the markets are at their best before lunch time, and begin to pack up in the early afternoon.
  • For a far less touristed experience visited Candelaria. This village is further from Sucre than Tarabuco, but a part of the same culture that is renowned nation-wide for its handicrafts. Prices are better than at Tarabuco. Transportation is very limited and people have been stuck out here, so it's best to go with a tour agency.
  • One of the most popular destinations outside of Sucre is Maragua crater, a region of unusual rock formations. The crater is not volcanic (contrary to what some say), but was formed by erosion. Fossils of marine shells are still found in the region and sold by local children. It is possible to spend a night in the village inside the crater. Conditions are basic but the experience unique. Simple meals are available too.
  • There are many other popular destinations that most tour groups can arrange visits to. At Icla there are rubber-tubing tours through a river canyon. The village of Yamparaez, on the road to Tarabuco is a good starting point for condor-spotting treks. There were once natural thermal baths by the river behind Maragua, but an avalanche or ownership dispute that was settled by dynamite (depends who you talk to), destroyed these. It is hoped they will be reconstructed soon.
  • If you are planning on doing much trekking or camping in the mountains around Sucre, it is highly recommended that you take a guide. Conditions change fast, many of the routes are small or hard to find, and it is important to be sensitive to local cultures (also note the language of chocie is Quechua, so don't assume anyone you meet can speak Spanish). For these reasons it is very useful to have a local guide with you.
  • Condortrekkers arranges locally-lead trekking expeditions to most of the above destinations, and are currently the only organisation that offer overnight trips to Tarabuco, staying in a local village before hitting Tarabuco first thing in the morning. For more info see the listing above or visit [http://www.condortrekkers.org/ Condortrekkers].