Kampala, with a population of approximately 1 million, is by far the largest city in Uganda. It is not yet completely overwhelmed with traffic and sprawl like Nairobi and Lagos. Additionally, Kampala is very safe to walk around, even at night, a welcome fact for many a high-strung visitor arriving from Nairobi.
Uganda, as the recipient of massive amounts of Western aid money, hosts large numbers of Non Governmental Organizations (NGOs). Most of those NGOs are based in Kampala, so there is an established expat scene in the city.
You can get from Entebbe to Kampala via taxi (approx 30,000 USh one way) or minibus (approx 2,000Ush one way).
There are three methods of public transportation: boda bodas, matatu, and special hires. The fastest method is the boda bodas; motorcycles that you see all over the city. You won't be in Kampala long before being propositioned by a Boda driver. If you're not interested, a simple 'no' will get them to leave you alone. You can get most anywhere on the back of one for between 1,000 and 2,000 USh, but make sure to agree on the fare before the ride begins. Men usually ride facing forward while women are expected to ride side saddle; very risky. Females can get away with riding facing the front, but may be accused of riding "like a man," though the locals are fairly understanding of female tourists doing this.
Boda Bodas are extremely dangerous as their drivers will do whatever it takes to get you to your destination quickly. Expect to dart in front of and against traffic and even though crowds of pedestrains when necessary. Boda boda accidents account for most of the hospital visits and traffic fatalities in Kampala; you have been warned!
Boda bodas got their name from the bicycle taxis that operated at some of the busy border crossing points. Buses had to discharge their passengers at the exit border control, who then had to walk to the entry border control. The distance across no man's land at some borders can be considerable. Hence the bicycle taxis would cry "boda boda" to the weary travellers. These bicycle taxis can still be found in most smaller Ugandan towns, however, in Kamapala they have been replaced by scooters.
Matatus are a series of minibuses that follow relatively preset routes all over the city and many other parts of the country. Confusingly, they are known taxis in Uganda. Each matatu has a driver and a conductor, both of whom will shout the destinations of their vehicle out the windows. Don't be frightened if you can't understand what they're saying. Ask one of them for your destination and you'll be told yes or no. When you get in, expect to be squeezed. Each vehicle is licensed to carry 14 people, but they will pack in as many will fit (and their belongings). If you don't like this it's a good idea to sit in the back of the vehicle, since usually the squeezing is limited to the first 2 rows. When you reach your destination, tell your conductor "Stage" and they will stop the van. There are also a number of staging points where the driver will stop and wait until they can fill the vehicle. This can take a few seconds or several minutes; just be patient. You pay the conductor when you exit, although some people give the conductor money while the vehicle is moving so that he can make change ahead of time. The normal fare is 300-500 USh per person when driving into the city, 500-1000 Ush when driving outward.
If you aren't up for the thrill of the Bodas and don't have time for a matatu, taxis, also called special hires are readily available at most central locations. A few taxis have meters, but most have not. Be sure to agree on the fare before you get in the car or you may be in for a nasty shock. Don't be afraid to haggle either; most destinations can be reached for 5,000 USh.
There are plans to ban all boda-bodas and matatus from the city centre by January 2007, in an effort to clean up the city before the Commonwealth Heads of Government meeting.
Owino is located near the center of Kampala, and any Boda or taxi driver will know how to get you there. Come prepared for a crowded maze of goods and people. Nakasero market is also interesting, more accessible from Kampala road and better suited for a (relaxed) stroll.
If you're in the market for souvenirs, check out the '''craft market on Buganda Road''' or the slightly larger '''crafts market behind the national theater''' near the Garden City complex. Also on Buganda Rd. across the street from the craft market you find a number of tailors if you are looking to have clothes sewn. And if you're tired from shopping the (upscale) cafe '''1000 Cups of Coffee''' is a relaxing Mzungu hangout.
On the complete opposite end of the spectrum from Owino is Garden City. Garden City is Kampala's upscale mall, and if you are in the market for an Internet cafe, a Forex bureau, coffee shop, an expensive pair of shoes, a western-style grocery store, a travel agent, a cinema, and more under the same roof, then Garden City is for you. Garden City can be a welcome change from the hustle and bustle of the centre of Kampala.
Aside from Garden City, other western-style supermarkets include Shoprite Checkers (in Lugogo, on the Jinja road) and Uchumi (at Garden City).
Next door to the Shoprite is is another huge modern shop called Game which sells DIY stuff, camping chairs, torches, batteries etc. There is also a chicken and chips cafe, a souvenir shop, a couple of banks, a phone shop etc.
Kasumba Square Mall is at the edge of Kampala west at the intersection of Busega Round about and Northern bypass highway, This Mall was developed as to alleviate congestion and to deliver goods and services to the community as Kampala is becoming congested city due to rapid population growth.
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There are a number of dining options in Kampala ranging from the cheap and local to the very fancy (and very expensive).
If you feel like going out, go out, you should be safe, just exercise common sense, Ugandans are very sociable. There are several clubs such as Club Silk and Ange Noir.
Uganda does, however, have a serious drink problem with the U.N. saying it has the highest alcohol comsumption rate in the world[http://earthtrends.wri.org/searchable_db/index.php?step=countries&ccID%5B%5D=0&allcountries=checkbox&theme=4&variable_ID=1186&action=select_years], much of this is sold on backstreets, hence official figures don't rate it so highly. Don't let this put you off, the city is still safe even with this undesired tag.
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'''Protea Hotel Kampala''', Kololo. 35km from Entebbe Airport, the brand new Protea Hotel Kampala offers 4-star luxury and 5-star service. 59 well-appointed rooms and 11 suites, all en-suite and air-conditioned; restaurant, bar, satellite television, air-con. Close to gym, tennis and squash courts etc. Also includes a Business Centre, wireless internet throughout, currency exchange, 24 hour room service and Reception.
Speke Resort at Munyonyo, about 10km from the centre is excellent. The grounds have vervet monkeys running wild along with plaintain eaters, hammerkop and the obligatory marabou storks. On the shore of Lake Victoria it really is worth the money.
Boda-boda motorcycle taxis are notoriously dangerous, but are sometimes so convenient it's difficult not to use them. If you do decide to use them regularly consider buying a helmet (they are not provided by the driver).
Don't plan on using your credit card. If it is accepted, there is a good chance of fraud. Safer is withdrawing money from ATM's using your VISA-card, try Stanbic bank near Speke Hotel. To stay safe, also be aware of the large number of prostitutes in Rock Garden at Speke Hotel. There are several stories about guys being duped, drinking beers laced with rohypnol, ending up short on cash, cell phones, credit cards and bank cheques.