'''Hagi''' (__) [http://www.hagishi.com/] is one of Japan's most beautiful castle towns, with many old streets and residences that have survived untouched to the present day.

Located on the coast of the Sea of Japan in northwestern Yamaguchi, Hagi is also known as the birthplace of several Japanese statesmen who played important roles in Meiji Restoration, and ''hagi-yaki'', a prized form of pottery.

Understand

The first castle in Hagi was built by the Yoshimi clan. But it was not until 1608 when the Mori clan, exiled here after a humiliating defeat by the Tokugawa shogunate, established the Choshu Domain (''Choshu-han'') and built the imposing structure now known as Hagi Castle at the foot of Mt. Shizuki. The Mori clan transferred the capital of Choshu from Hiroshima to Hagi at the same time, where it remained the political center of the region for over 250 years. In the middle of the 19th century, Choshu allied with the Satsuma Domain to deliver some long-awaited payback for Tokugawa, toppling the shogunate and thereby playing a major role in spurring the Meiji Restoration that went on to modernize feudal Japan in rapid fashion. Many future statesmen were born and raised in Hagi, such as Hirobumi Ito, the first Japanese Prime Minister.

Tourist information

  • <listing name="JR Hagi Station" alt="" directions="" address="" phone="0838-25-1750" email="" fax="" url="" hours="9AM-5:45PM, to 5PM Dec-Jan" price=""></listing>
  • <listing name="JR Higashi-Hagi Station" alt="" directions="" address="" phone="0838-25-3145" email="" fax="" url="" hours="9AM-5PM, to 5:30PM summer" price=""> Left-luggage services are available; if you're staying overnight, they can arrange delivery to your hotel while you explore the city.</listing>
  • Get in

    By plane

  • '''Hagi-Iwami Airport (IWJ)''' [http://www.iwami.or.jp/airport/] has one flight per day from Haneda (Tokyo) and Itami (Osaka) on ANA. Shuttle buses run from the airport to the city (80 minutes).
  • '''Yamaguchi Ube Airport (UBJ)''' [http://www.yamaguchiube-airport.jp/] in Ube is the prefecture's largest airport, with regular flights to Haneda Airport in Tokyo on JAL and ANA (about 90 minutes). From Ube, take a bus to Shin-Yamaguchi Station in Yamaguchi and connect via bus from there (see below).
  • By train

    The closest ''shinkansen'' station is '''Shin-Yamaguchi''' in Yamaguchi. Most Hikari and some Nozomi trains stop there. From Shin-Yamaguchi, the "Hagi-go" (______) bus will, appropriately enough, go to Hagi. It's run by Chugoku JR Bus [http://www.chugoku-jrbus.co.jp/].

    The JR San'in Line runs around Hagi and on to the suburbs. The main station is '''JR Higashi-Hagi Station''' (_____w), across the Matsumoto River to the east of the city center. '''JR Hagi Station''' (___w) is a long walk to the south of the city center, while '''JR Tamae Station''' (___]_w) is a short walk south of the castle ruins and Mt. Shizuki.

    By bus

    The main bus station is the '''Hagi Bus Center''' (___o_X_Z___^_[), which is located in the city center. Buses run from Hiroshima (four hours), Umeda and Abeno-bashi in Osaka by Kintetsu [http://www.kintetsu-bus.co.jp/] (10 hours), and Shinagawa in Tokyo by Keikyu [http://www.keikyu-bus.co.jp/] (14 hours).

    Get around

    The city center is on a delta between the Hashimoto River and the Matsumoto River. If you decide to forgo wheeled transportation and walk, you're joining a long tradition — '''Hagi-Oukan''' (______), which connects Hagi and Yamaguchi City, was an important route during the Edo period, traveled frequently by merchants and samurai. It's now a popular trail for history-minded tourists.

    By bus

    The red '''Hagi Junkan Maaru Bus''' (___z_______[___o_X) runs 7AM-7PM to almost all of the tourist sights — most stops are named for the nearest major attraction. There are departures every half-hour or so. Rides of any length cost only ¥100, or ¥500 for a day pass.

    By bicycle

    Most of the major sights can be easily reached by bicycle. You can rent one at several places around town, such as JR Higashi-Hagi Station and Hagi Castle.

    By rickshaw

  • <listing name="Kurumayado Tenjuppei" alt="___h _V_\__" directions="" address="" phone="0838-26-6474" email="" fax="" url="http://www.haginet.ne.jp/users/kurumayado/" hours="9AM-5PM" price="For two people, expect to pay ¥6000 for 30 minutes, ¥10,000 for one hour, or ¥20,000 two hours."> ''Rickshaw'' tours of the historic sections of the city center. They have standard itineraries to match the tour length, but substitutions can be made.</listing>
  • See

    <br> '''Hirobumi Ito''' - the first Prime Minister of Japan<br> '''Kaoru Inoue''' - the prominent Minster for Foreign Affairs<br> '''Yozo Yamao''' - contributed to the engineering of Japan<br> '''Kinsuke Endo''' - the first head of the new National Mint<br> '''Masaru Inoue''' - known as the "Father of the Japanese Railways"

    Shizuki area

  • Hagi Castle. _____ ''Hagi-jo''. 81 838-251826. AM-4:30PM, from 8:30AM Nov-Feb, to 6PM March. yen;210 adults, ¥100 children. In 1608, the Mori clan built Hagi Castle at the foot of Mt. Shizuki, where it served as the political center of Choshu-han for over 250 years — only to be dismantled when Choshu-han took the lead in modernizing Japan during the Meiji Restoration. (Castles are ''sooo'' feudal era.) Stone walls, the moat, and gardens mark the remains of the castle today. Admission includes the '''Mori House''', which is just south of the park.

  • Shizuki-koen. This park surrounds the castle ruins. It's a popular spot for cherry blossom parties in the spring. Also here are a small shrine, a teahouse, the '''Jozangama pottery kiln''' (___R_q), and a hiking path leading up to the peak of '''Mt. Shizuki''' (about 140 meters).

    Horiuchi area

    The '''Horiuchi area''' (_x__), just southeast of Shizuki-koen, was a residential section for wealthy merchants and the samurai elite. Many old houses, temples, and shrines remain here in good condition, with virtually no modern structures among them. It's well worth a wander.

    Keep an eye out for "bent key" (''kaimagari'' ____) paths, though. These sharp right angles were designed to confuse enemies and make it easy for warriors who knew the terrain to corner them, so plan your invasions accordingly.

    Jokamachi area

    Just to the east of Horiuchi, the '''Jokamachi area''' also has several interesting old houses that are open to the public.

  • Kikuya House. e_____Z__ Kikuya-ke Jutaku. -1 Gofuku. 838-25-8282. ttp://www.haginet.ne.jp/users/kikuyake/. AM-5:30PM. yen;500 adults, ¥300 students, ¥200 kids. The Kikuya merchant family lived in style, with a large house and a lovely garden. Today, their house is open to the public with over 5,000 period items on display, from dolls to a vintage phone booth.

  • Ishii Chawan Museum. 3-3 Minamifuruhagi-machi. 838-22-1211. u-Su 9AM-12PM, 1PM-4:45PM. yen;500. A good place to check out ''hagi-yaki'' (see Buy), with a particular emphasis on tea bowls.

  • Meirin-kan. _____. ku no 1 Emukai. agi Shiyakusho bus stop. 838-25-3139. Established by the Choshu-han, this school for gifted children was originally on the third floor of Hagi Castle, but moved to its own facilities in 1863. The school building is in use as a part of elementary school today. Visitors are free to tour the grounds, but not the school interiors.

    Teramachi area

    Continuing east from Jokamachi, the '''Teramachi area''' features a cluster of old temples that were intended to double as barracks in case of enemy attack. Among the notables is '''Jonen-ji''', whose carved front gate was transported from Kyoto by the Mori clan.

    Shoin-jinja area

    This area is a few minutes southeast of '''JR Higashi-Hagi Station''', across the Matsumoto River from the city center.

  • Shoin-jinja. _______. 537 Matsumotoshi, Chinto. 838-22-4643. :30AM-5PM. ree. A Meiji-era shrine dedicated to Yoshida Shoin, a young samurai who taught many of the students that went on to become major statesmen in Meiji Japan. Yoshida himself would not see it, though; chafing under the policy of ''sakoku'', he tried to persuade Commodore Perry to smuggle him out of Japan, was imprisoned, and was later executed after plotting against the shogunate. Within the grounds of the shrine, his school '''Shoka-sonjuku''' (_______m) is preserved. There is also a hall dedicated to his life story (9AM-5PM, ¥650).

  • Hirobumi Ito House. 0838-25-3139. AM-5PM. ree. The former residence of '''Hirobumi Ito''', the aforementioned first Prime Minister of Japan, and himself a former Shoin student. He served four terms as prime minister and drafted the Meiji constitution, but his involvement in Japan's annexation of Shimonoseki - at the tip of Honshu
  • Yamaguchi city - the capital in medieval times
  • Iwakuni - city with a beautiful wooden bridge
  • Tsuwano - castle town with impressive red roofs
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