The 1,997-meter-tall mountain, true to its reputation as the "most precipitious mountain under heaven", is a cluster of five peaks with breathtaking cliff faces and a tough challenge to mountaineers. Hua was historically the location of several influential Taoist monasteries, and was known as a centre for the practise of traditional Chinese martial arts. It is also one of the five holy mountains of China.
Leaving from Xi'an: buses (coaches or minibuses) leave from the eastern side of the train station regularly during daylight hours. These take about two hours and should cost under 30 yuan. You'll be dropped off on Yuquan Lu, where a short walk uphill brings you to the western entrance.
Be aware these are independent private companies, or just two guys with a bus. They don't operate on a schedule, but will leave when full of passengers. So For the quickest departure, find a bus already mostly full of people, since if you choose an empty bus you could be sitting in the parking lot a while.
1) Climb the North Peak--main route from the West Gate. Plan for more than four hours to reach the North Peak.
2) Take the cable car to the North Peak. Buy a ticket and take a bus to the lower station (mandatory) from the East Gate.
3) Climb the North Peak--alternate route below the cable car. Take the bus to the cable car station from the East Gate. This takes an estimated 2 hours, and is nothing but steps.
The bus will let you off down the street the West Gate. You can take a taxi (less than 5 minutes and less than 5 kuai) to the East Gate, which is the ticket office for the cable car and bus to the cable car station.
These three routes meet up again just below the North Peak summit.
From this area, there is one route to the other peaks. This passes through the area known as the "Heavenly Steps" (___V___Cliterally "ascend heaven ladder", "Sun and Moon Cliff" and "Black Dragon Mountain," the latter called that because it looks like a dragon's wavy back. The route is no more than a meter wide at places. This should take about 2 hours.
At the top of this section is the "Gold Lock Pass." Here the route branches. Paths lead towards the East, South, Center and West Peaks, as well as other points of interest. As most of the climbing is done, the final assent to each of the peaks is not too severe. You can only one (probably the South, the highest) or walk a circuit. In this are there are temples, lodges and other sites. This includes the infamous Changkong Boardwalk.
A gold or bronze medal that you can inscribe with your name to commemorate your ascent of the mountain.
In Huashan village, minibuses leave from the intersection of Yuquan Lu and Xitong Gonglu, as well as the East Gate that gives access to the cable car station, on a frequent basis. Although some guides say they stop at 7:00, unlicensed transportation continues. In a worst-case scenario a rickety village taxi could surely be persuaded to make the trip back to Xi'an for 300-500 RMB (about 50-75 USD).