'''Freetown''' is the capital city of Sierra Leone and is the heart of the Western region. It is located on a peninsula on the south bank of the estuary of the Sierra Leone River. The city lies at the foot of the peninsula mountains and faces one of the best natural harbours on the west coast of Africa. The peninsula is home to some of the finest beaches in Africa - Lumley beach, Lakka beach, No. 2 river beach and Toke beach are some examples.

Understand

Freetown, like the rest of Sierra Leone has endured some very difficult times during the civil war. It was occupied by rebels twice and the resident population and infrastructure suffered badly. As stability returned to Freetown, many Sierra Leoneans fled the rural areas to the city to escape the carnage. Though the country has been peaceful since 2002, the population of the city is still much higher than it was prior to the war. This has put pressure on land and local services. Many areas of jungle have been cleared to house the new residents. Some claim that the US government has not helped the situation with their new embassy development at Leicester. Some blame the new developments for severe flooding of the city during the rainy season. Deforestation has also been blamed for a shortage of water in the city.

Get in

By plane

'''Freetown International Airport''' ({{IATA|FNA}}) ({{ICAO|GFLL}}), in Lungi (''on the other side of the estuary from Freetown''), Tel: (232-22)-338405,[http://www.freetownairport.com/]. Getting from the airport to Freetown can be a challenge and the safety of the various operators has been questioned. A short helicopter ride can be taken with UTair to the Aberdeen part of Freetown (Le225,000/70USD December 2008). An alternative (if the sea is not rough) is the hovercraft service to Aberdeen (Le155,000/$50 From October 2008). Pelican Water Taxis operate small boats from Mahera Hotel to the Aberdeen bridge for Le120,000. The hovercraft, Pelcan and helicopter are convenient for most foreign travellers as they avoid the slow route through the crowded east end of Freetown.

Another possibility is on the overloaded ferry which runs to the main part of Freetown. A seat on a bus which uses the ferry costs Le60,000. The bus takes passengers to Rawdon Street in the center of Freetown. This trip can take 3+ hours and has been known to take 8 hours. By road it is 4+ hours to the city, via Port Loko using some poor roads.

Finally, some private boats cross the estuary. This is not recommended at night.

By train

Sierra Leone's public railway service was closed in 1974. A new railway museum is due to open during 2005 at Cline Town. Many of the original railway buildings and signs can still be seen in and around Freetown, particularly at Hill Station and Congo Cross. It is also possible to walk along much of the track bed, starting near the Hill Station Club [http://www.capitalradio.sl/hsc.htm] and dropping down the hill via Congo Cross into Freetown.

By car

By bus

By boat

Get around

Local taxis, which run fixed routes. One can approach a Taxi driver and Hire him/Her for a few hours or days or even a day if one wished. In some cases you can also have a shared often with several people which keeps cost as low as 700 leones. These vehicles tend to be old. One can identify the local taxis due to their yellow stripes. Taxis can be hired for a complete journey, which could cost Le5000-10000 and the drivers do expect to be negotiated with so don't be scared be cheeky and negotiate.

if you do feel that this isn't the route for you however, Hotel taxis are usually available in much better condition and are regulated. These will also cost up to Le10000.

Car hire is possible and can normally be arranged through the hotels or local car dealerships. They will normally come with a driver. Journeys outside of Freetown may require a 4 wheel drive vehicle and will cost more.

However if you wish to mingle with the locals, which is encouraged as it creates more social inclusion, you may be surprised. They can help you find your way around town, hire taxi's for you, introduce you to their friends and families and in some cases ceremonies taking place. They can also cook for you as Sierra Leoneans are very hospitable people. Many tourist tend to fall in a trap where they visit and hang around with only familiar people. It's better to see visiting Sierra Leone as a social/ cultural holiday allowing visitors and locals to exchange customs and at the same time experience the diamond in the rough. Seeing the good and bad parts is what makes visiting Sierra Leone an experience to remember.

See

  • '''National Rail museum''', Cline Town. The museum has several steam/diesel locomotives and carriages which include one used by HM Queen Elizabeth II during her state visit. All have been restored. A guide will usually show guests around. Entry is free, but donations are gratefully received. Open Monday-Saturday 1030-1700.
  • '''Bunce Island'''
  • '''Tacugama Chimpanzee Sanctuary''', 40 minutes outside Freetown, tel: +232-76-611211, (''email: [mailto:info@tacugama.com info@tacugama.com]'') [http://www.tacugama.com/]. Open twice daily at 10:30AM & 4:00PM 7 days a week by appointment. Le 30,000 (approx. 10 USD), Le 15,000 for children.
  • '''Charlotte falls'''
  • '''Sierra Leone Museum''', Cotton Tree, Freetown.
  • '''Hill Station Club''', [http://www.capitalradio.sl/hsc.htm]. Gentleman's club dating from colonial times.
  • '''Colonial houses on stilts''' at Hill Station. Most are in a poor state but offer an insight into how people lived in the past.
  • A visit to the '''Aberdeen''' part of Freetown will give a break from the busy city center. It's a short drive from any part of Freetown by car/taxi. The roads are good but watch the speed bumps on the beach road and Sir Samuel Lewis road. There are small stalls outside of Alex' bar selling 'tourist' fare. There is a fashion boutique at Family Kingdom. Various other stalls can be found on the Lumley beach road and in the area of the Mammy Yoko heliport. There are plenty of hawkers on the beach selling sunglasses, fruit, peanuts, clothes etc.
  • '''The beaches''' are beautiful and unspoiled. Driving to the more remote ones such as Lakka and No. 2 river beach will require a good vehicle because the road is bad.
  • '''Lakka Beach''' takes about 20 minutes. Here there are some bars - Pierre's (formally the Cotton Club) is popular for food and drink.
  • Driving further, for another 20 minutes will get you to '''No. 2 River Beach'''. The local villagers have set up a management company to look after this stunning beach and river outfall. There are some small craft shops and a bar serving cold drinks and fresh fish/lobster.
  • '''Toke Beach''' is best reached by driving the other way round the Freetown peninsular along the new road.
  • '''Lumley Beach''' Directly on the front of Freetown itself facing the Atlantic is beautiful with white sandy beach, shops, restaurants, hotels, golf course as well local clubs.
  • Do

  • A round of golf at the club just off the beach at Lumley.
  • Gamble at the Casino in Aberdeen.
  • Walk along the route of the old railway line, from Hill Station, via Congo Cross to the center of Freetown.
  • Take a boat from Toke to Banana Island and a bbq on Jonobo beach
  • Learn

    Work

    Buy

    Local crafts are inexpensive, some are unique in that they are made from scrap gathered after the war.

    Eat

    Freetown has a few high quality restaurants but very little in the tier below that. Being on the Atlantic coast, some excellent seafood is on offer. Barracuda, grouppa and lobster are readily available. Freetown has a large Lebanese community. Consequently, some very good Lebanese food is available at most restaurants.

    Budget

  • '''Fresh peanuts''' from the local sellers on Lumley beach.
  • Mid-range

  • '''Alex's Beach Bar and Restaurant''', 64 Cape Road, Man o' War bay, Aberdeen, +23222 272957.
  • '''Angels Delight''', Family Kingdom, Aberdeen, +23222 273257.
  • '''Cape Club''', Cape Road, Man o' War bay, Aberdeen, +23222 272949.
  • '''Crown Bakery Restaurant''', Freetown Centre.
  • '''Diaspora''', 2 Pricilla Street (off Shiaka Stevens)
  • '''Paddy's bar''', Aberdeen Road.
  • '''Prince's pizza''' (take-away), 125 Wilkinson Road, +23222 239114.
  • Splurge

  • '''Country Lodge Hotel Restaurant''', HS 51 Hill Station, tel: 00232 22 235589 (''fax: 00232 22 235688 ''), [http://www.countrylodgesl.com/].
  • '''Mamba Point Restaurant''' (also does take-away pizza/delivery), 4 Regent Rd, Wilberforce, +23222 232872.
  • '''Sierra Lighthouse Restaurant''', 5 Man of War bay, tel +232 22 236676.
  • '''Atlantic Restaurant''', Beach Road, Lumley, +232 76667677.
  • '''Indochine Restaurant''', 64 Sir Samuel Lewis Rd, Aberdeen, +23222 2733452. Particularly good Chinese/Thai food in a smart air-conditioned restaurant. They have another restaurant in Conakry.
  • '''Balmaya Arts Restaurant''', 32B Main Motor, Congo Cross, +23222 230055.
  • '''Bamboo Hut Bar and Restaurant''', 70A Wilkinson Road, +23222 230462, [http://www.bamboohutsl.com/].
  • '''The Solar Hotel restaurant''', near Man o' War Bay, tel +232 22 272531. is currently offering some of the best food in Freetown.
  • Drink

    Apart from the hotels and restaurants there are many bars on the beaches. Particularly at the Aberdeen end of Lumley beach. However, as of October 2008, the government has closed and demolished most of the bars on the beach. Also a "must see" for any visitor is Paddy's on the road into Aberdeen. This bar is famous and was the only place to be consistently open during the war. Get a cold Star and enjoy the atmosphere. Star beer is now available on tap in better bars. Also worthy of a visit is the Hill Station Club [http://www.capitalradio.sl/hsc.htm] at Hill Station. This old gentleman's drinking club was looted during the war but the building itself survived and the bar will be opened for visitors. If you are lucky you will be allowed to see the snooker room, where the tables appear untouched for many years and old champions names are still on the sign boards. On Sir Samuel Lewis (same as Paddy's) there is also a small local pub, called Tribes, with a pool table.

    Sleep

    Freetown has some high standard hotels. All in the splurge section will offer air conditioned rooms with power available 24 hours per day. Most will also have Internet access, with some providing high speed wireless access too. Hotels in the Aberdeen area are closest to Lumley beach. During the busiest time of the year (December-March) it can be hard to find a room, especially with the closure of the Cape Sierra Hotel. Booking ahead is advised.

    Budget

  • '''Ohio 99''' Regent Street, Freetown. Small, well run guest house with flushing toilets, showers and small drinks bar. Conveniently close to town centre and clean. From around $8 per night.
  • Mid-range

  • '''Blackheath Guest House''', Wilkinson Road, Tel:(UK) +44(0)7946 886849.
  • Splurge

  • '''Bintumani Hotel''', Aberdeen
  • ''' Cabenda Hotel''', 14 Signal Hill Road, Tel: +232:22:230544 (''Fax: +232:22:233109''), [http://www.hotelcabenda.com/]. The hotel has wireless Internet but not 24 hour power. Rooms from $86/night. From January 2009, the UN has exclusive use of the hotel.
  • ''' Hotel Barmoi''', Aberdeen (behind the Cape Sierra Hotel), Tel: 232-22-234933 (''Fax: 232-22-236702 Email: enquiries@hotelbarmoi.com''), [http://www.hotelbarmoi.com/]. Well run hotel with good views of the Atlantic Ocean.
  • '''Cape Sierra Hotel''', Aberdeen. Closed before Christmas 2008 for refurbishment. It is not expected to reopen for more than 2 years.
  • '''Country Lodge Hotel''', Hill Station, 00232 22 235589 (''Fax: 00232 22 235688''), [http://www.countrylodgesl.com/]. Well located hotel overlooking Freetown. Has a pool, fitness room and good bar/restaurants.
  • Family Kingdom, Aberdeen
  • '''Kimbima Hotel''', near Man o' War bay, Aberdeen, [http://www.hotelkimbima.com/].. Overlooking the Atlantic. Take the road to the Bintumani Hotel and turn right just before the hotel entrance. Good rooms from $110/night.
  • '''Lacs Villa''', Brookfields
  • '''Mamba Point''', Wilberforce. They have one of the best restaurants in town.
  • ''' Sierra Lighthouse Inn''', Man of War bay, Aberdeen, tel +232 22 236676, [http://www.sierralighthouse.com/]. Also has a fine restaurant offering Lebanese and local cuisine. The grilled fish is highly recommended.
  • '''Solar Hotel''', Aberdeen. Has one of the best restaurants in Freetown.
  • Contact

  • British Embassy (also provides assistance to citizens of France), Spur Road. Tel +232(22)232961
  • Serbian Consulate, at DSTV office, Wilkinson Road.
  • US Embassy, Leicester. Tel +232(22)515000 or +232(76)515000
  • A full list of embassies and consuls can be found here [http://www.visitsierraleone.org/diplomaticmissionsinSL.asp]

    Stay safe

    Violent crime is very rare in Freetown. However, petty crime is common. Take care of possessions and be wary of leaving valuables in rooms.

    Cope

    The unrelenting heat and humidity can make life very unpleasant. For anyone not used to this, an air-conditioned room to sleep in will be almost essential. BBC World Service can be heard on 94.3MHz (FM) and Western style commercial station Capital Radio [http://www.capitalradio.sl] on 104.9MHz.

    Get out