'''Kodaiji Temple'''. This temple was built for Toyotomi Hideyoshi's widow by Tokugawa Ieyasu and is located right next to the Ryozen Kannon temple. If you really like temples this is a very nice one. It's got a nice bamboo grove that you walk through on the way out. If you're in the area it's a good sight to see.
'''Gion district''' (____). The flagstone-paved streets and traditional buildings of the Gion district, located to the north-west of Kiyomizu, are where you're most likely to see geishas in Kyoto, scurrying between buildings or slipping into a taxi. The area just to the north of Shijo-dori, to the west of Yasaka Shrine, is particularly photogenic - particularly around Shinbashi-dori and Hanami-koji. Sannen-zaka ("three-year-slope") and Ninen-zaka ("two-year-slope"), two stepped streets leading off from Kiyomizu-zaka, are also very picturesque - but watch your step, slipping over on these streets brings three or two years' bad luck respectively. At the northern end of Ninen-zaka is '''Ryozen Kannon''', a memorial to the unknown Japanese soldiers who died in World War II, with a 24-meter-tall statue of Kannon. Admission is ¥200, including a lit incense stick to place in front of the shrine.
'''Kenninji Temple''', Japan's oldest Zen temple, has handsome halls and sand and moss gardens, and is of particular interest to art lovers. Sotatsu's famed Edo-period screens of the Wind and Thunder Gods are on display. And on the high ceiling of the Hatto Dharma Hall writhe Koizumi Junsaku's splendid Twin Dragons, painted and installed in 2002. Admission is ¥500. Open daily, 10am-4pm.
'''Yasaka Shrine''' at the eastern end of Shijo-dori, at the edge of Gion, is the shrine responsible for Kyoto's main festival - the Gion Matsuri, which takes place in July. The shrine is small in comparison with many in Kyoto, but it boasts an impressive display of lanterns. Admission is free. ''Nearest bus stop: Gion''.
'''Maruyama Park''' is the main center for cherry blossom viewing in Kyoto, and can get extremely crowded at that time of year. The park's star attraction is a weeping cherry tree (''shidarezakura''). Main entrance to the park is through Yasaka Shrine. Admission is free.
'''Nanzenji Temple''', with its distinctive two-story entrance gate (''sanmon'') and aqueduct, is another popular temple in Kyoto, but its larger size means that it doesn't seem as crowded as many of the others. ''Nearest bus stop: Nanzenji, Eikando-michi. Nearest subway station: Keage''. Open daily, 8.30am-5pm. Walking around the temple complex is free, including the unusual Meiji-era aqueduct that wouldn't look out of place in Italy. There are three regions of Nanzenji that you can pay to enter: '''Sanmon''' - the two-story main gate to Nanzenji Temple charges ¥500 for admission, and offers pleasant views over the surrounding area of the city. '''Nanzen-in Zen Temple''' - a small, but relaxing temple and moss garden behind the aqueduct, dating back to the 13th century, charges ¥300 for admission, and is probably only worth it if you have a particular interest in Zen Buddhism. '''Hojo''' - the abbot's quarters, is a more interesting building, with a small raked gravel garden and some impressive paintings on the sliding doors of the buildings. Admission is ¥500.
'''The Philosopher's Walk''' (_N_w____ ''tetsugaku-no-michi'') is the name given to a 2km-long path through north-eastern Kyoto, along which a philosophy professor, Kitaro Nishida, used to frequently walk. It is a surprisingly pleasant and relaxing walk even today, though you will undoubtedly share it with more tourists than Kitaro did. The walk runs south from '''Ginkakuji''' beside an aqueduct to '''Nyakuoji Shrine''', many guidebooks suggest that the walk continues further south from there to '''Nanzenji''', but this southerly section of the walk is less consistently signposted. The route passes several temples ''en route'', notably '''Honen-in''', a beautiful secluded temple with a thatched gate. '''Ginkakuji''' (___t__, the Silver Pavilion) is at the northern end of the Philosopher's Walk. Much like its golden counterpart at Kinkakuji, the Silver Pavilion is often choked with tourists, shuffling past a scrupulously-maintained dry landscape Zen garden and the surrounding moss garden, before posing for pictures in front of the Pavilion across a pond. Do note, however, that major restoration works are being done on the pavilion, which is now surrounded by metal scaffolding. This is not expected to be completed until after 2010. ''Unlike'' its counterpart, however, the Silver Pavilion was never actually covered in silver; only the name had been applied before the plans fell apart. Be sure not to miss the display of ''Very Important Mosses''! Admission ¥500. ''Nearest bus stop: Ginkakuji-michi''.
'''Mount Daimonji''' isn't much more than a hill, but it provides a breathtaking (and perhaps the best) view of the city. So if you're in the mood for a hike, this is a pleasant forest walk, taking a little less than an hour. At the summit, you can take a breather and check out the views over the city, or climb the steps and keep hiking through the forest at the top for hours, as long as you don't mind winding up far away from where you started. There's a clearly marked path up the mountain that begins near Ginkakuji. To reach the trailhead, turn left when facing the gates of Ginkakuji, and, before the stone torii (the iconic gate found throughout Japan), turn right and follow the path upwards. You'll soon be greeted with a map of the hill. If you don't know Japanese, don't worry, just follow everyone up the very-obvious path to the summit.
Yoshida Shrine.
Heian Shrine. 75-761-0221. ttp://www.heianjingu.or.jp/index_e.html.
Ginkakuji Temple.
Kyoto Municipal Museum of Art. 75-771-4107. ttp://www.city.kyoto.jp/bunshi/kmma/en/index.html. pen 9 AM to 5 PM. Closed Mondays.
Eikando Temple. ttp://www.eikando.or.jp/English/index_eng.htm.
Kyoto National Museum of Modern Art. 75-761-4111. ttp://www.momak.go.jp/English/. :30 AM to 5:00 PM (on Fridays during special exhibitions, hours may be extended to 8:00 PM). Closed Mondays. 420. (college students receive a discount and special exhibitions require additional costs). An interesting museum featuring works from famous, as well as up-and-coming modern artists. Exhibits change frequently, so its best to call or visit the webisite to see exactly what will featured during your visit. You may also want to make sure they will not be changing exhibitions, as they often close an entire floor of the museum during the transition.
Rokuharamitsuji Temple. ttp://www.rokuhara.or.jp/.
Ryozen Kannon Statue. ttp://www.ryozen-kwannon.jp/.
Back near Kiyomizu-dera and further to the southeast, along the Kamo River, are a few more sights:
'''Sanjusangen-do''' is definitely worth a visit. It was founded in 1164 and became famous for its 1001 beautiful wooden and gold-leaf covered statues of Kannon, goddess of mercy, housed in thirty-three bays (sanjusan = thirty-three, gendo = bays) in the main hall.
'''Kyoto National Museum''' [http://www.kyohaku.go.jp/eng/index_top.html] (9:30am - 5:00pm, closed Mondays; admission ¥500) is near Sanjusangen-do, and has a large collection of ancient Japanese sculpture, ceramics, metalwork, painting, and other artifacts. (It's quite similar to the Tokyo National Museum in Tokyo/Ueno.) The Museum building is fairly grand, but the statue of Rodin's ''The Thinker'' out front is a bit out of place, as there's no Western art inside. It's seven minutes east of Shichijo Keihan.
South Eastern Kyoto
<see name="Fushimi Inari Shrine" alt="____________ Fushimi-Inari-taisha" directions="Keihan Main Line train to Fushimi-Inari Station or JR Nara Line to Inari Station" phone="+81-075-641-7331" url="http://inari.jp/" price="Admission is free" lat="34.967222" long="135.772778">
Another of Kyoto's often-overlooked jewels, about twenty-minutes to the south of Kyoto. Dedicated to Inari, the Japanese fox goddess, Fushimi-Inari-taisha is the head shrine (''taisha'') for 40,000 Inari shrines across Japan. Stretching 230 meters up the hill behind it are hundreds of bright red ''torii'' (gates). A visitor could easily spend several hours walking up the hillside, taking in the beautiful views of the city of Kyoto and walking through the ''torii'', which appear luminescent in the late afternoon sun. Countless stone foxes, also referred to as Inari, are also dotted along the path.
Local delicacies are sold at the roadside approaching the shrine, including barbecued sparrow (__/______/''suzume'') and ''inari-sushi'' (sweetened sushi rice wrapped in fried tofu), which is said to be the favourite food of the fox. The ''suzume'' is still in a form that resembles the animal (essentially a barbecued bird on a skewer), so those not accustomed may be a bit squeamish. Watch your fingers as you go - the fox spirits are said to be able to possess people by slipping through their fingernails.
Admission is free. From the city center, take the Keihan line to the Fushimi Inari station, and the foxes will point you in the right direction. Be warned, the shrine is located close to ''Fushimi Inari'' and ''Inari'' stations, but is nowhere near ''Fushimi'' station! You can also take the JR Nara line from Kyoto station to Inari station, which exits immediately opposite the entrance to the shrine.
</see>
Fushimi Momoyama Castle. This castle was once a favorite of Toyotomi Hideyoshi. The original was dismantled in 1623, but a 1964 reconstruction went up in its memory with a small museum and gold-lined tea room.
Tofukuji Temple. ttp://www.tofukuji.jp/english.html. A large temple complex with many small and beautiful gardens nearby. Hordes of Japanese tourists visit during the fall months, when the leaves show a dazzling array of colors, but it's not as well known to foreigners.
Jonangu Shrine. ttp://www.jonangu.com/.
Daigoji Temple. 2 Higashioji-cho, Daigo. 75-571-0002. ttp://www.daigoji.or.jp/index_e.html. he Garan and Sanboin are open from 9 AM to 5 PM from March through November, and 9 AM to 4 PM from December through February. The museum is open from 9 AM to 4 PM. ach part costs \600 to enter however discount tickets can be purchased to see two (\1000) or all three (\1500). Daigoji is a large temple complex consisting of the garan (main complex), Sanboin Garden, and Reihokan Museum. The size and position of the temple, slightly removed from the city, creates a more peaceful, serene setting. As a registered World Heritage Site, the temple has a lot of history, with the oldest remaining structure being the five-story pagoda built in 951. The Sanboin is the temple's garden, and despite being rather pricey is truly beautiful. The museum houses many of the temple's treasures. Daigoji Temple is famous for being one of Kyoto's best places to view cherry blossoms in the spring and the leaves in the fall. Although the main temple complex is always worth visiting, those visiting in the autumn should consider paying the extra fee to see the Sanboin garden, as it becomes especially beautiful with the vivid colors of the leaves (sadly pictures are not allowed in the Sanboin).
Zuishin-in Temple. ttp://www.zuishinin.or.jp/.
Video game giant '''Nintendo''' has its world headquarters in southern Kyoto. Sad to say, tours are not offered, and visitors are unlikely even to make it into the lobby; the best you'll be able to do is pose for a photo with the company logo on the plaza in front of the otherwise anonymous building.
Southwestern Kyoto
The Southwestern part of the city is often divided into the Matsuo area, which borders Arashiyama, and the Oharano area, which is further south.
Matsuo Shrine. ttp://www1.neweb.ne.jp/wa/matsuo/index-1/index.html.
Katsura Imperial Villa.
Umenomiya Shrine. ttp://www.umenomiya.or.jp/.
Suzumushi-dera Temple. ttp://www.suzutera.or.jp/.
Kokedera Temple.
The Oharano area is named after Oharano Shrine, one of the most famous sites in the area. While it is not really so far from the bustling inner city, it does not reflect any of the stereotypical images one has when they think of Kyoto. The area feels as though the nearest city is hundreds of miles away, as it is extremely rural. Most tourists are not even aware this area exists, so it can be a nice change of pace for those who have the time to explore the outer regions.
Oharano Shrine. ttp://www.kyoto-web.com/oharano/.
Shoji-ji Temple.
Yoshimine-dera Temple. ttp://www.yoshiminedera.com/.
Nagaoka Tenmangu Shrine. ttp://www.nagaokatenmangu.or.jp/.
Imperial Gardens & Teahouses
Stroll through the regal retreats of the 3 imperial gardens intersperse with traditional teahouses on its grounds managed by the Imperial Household Agency. These are the Sento Imperial Palace (________) , Katsura Imperial Villa (_j___{), and Shugakuin Imperial Villa (_C_w_@___{), gardens of tranquility for successive imperial families. All 3 gardens are open to the public by obtaining a free entry pass through application. The gardens are at its most scenic during spring, cherry blossom season and autumn where a riot of colors enchant visitors. All 3 gardens are from time to time used as venues for official state functions or for private visits by the current royal family members.
The Imperial Household Agency maintains a quota on the number of visitors to each site per day. Admission is free. Guided tours are conducted in Japanese only. Overseas visitors can apply online to the Imperial Household Agency in English here[http://sankan.kunaicho.go.jp/english/index.html]. On its website are write ups and videos in English for interested visitors to gauge which ones they would like to visit before making an online application. Please note that advanced applications are necessary on the first day of the month, 3 months in advance of the applicant's preferred tour dates. For example, if your preferred date of visit falls in the month of April, you need to submit your online application by 1 January latest. As these visits are over subscribed by the Japanese and overseas visitors, the Imperial Household Agency has to draw lots to pick the successful applicants. All applicants are notified on the status of their applications whether they are successful or otherwise within a week after closing date.
If an applicant is not successful, they can still go direct in person to the Imperial Household Agency Kyoto Office to enquire whether there are vacancies in the event of withdrawals but chances may be slim. Address: Imperial household Agency Kyoto Office, 3 Kyotogyoen, Kamigyo-ku, Kyoto, 602-8611, tel: +81-75-211-1215.
Do
A highly-recommended walking tour is the "Walk in Kyoto, Talk in English" tour (16/over ¥2000; 13-15 ¥1000; under 13 free; no reservations, cash only). The tour is given by Hajime Hirooka, better known to the tourists as Johnny Hillwalker. During the five-hour English-speaking tour, Hillwalker shows tourists a large Buddhist temple, a few Shinto shrines, and workshops in the back alleys of the city. The tour operates rain or shine on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays between March and November, excluding public holidays. Departure time is 10:15 AM sharp outside the main (north) entrance of Kyoto station. See [http://web.kyoto-inet.or.jp/people/h-s-love/ Johnnie's Kyoto Walking] for more information.
Riraku Spa. yatt Regency Kyoto Hotel, 644-2 Sanjusangendo-mawari, Higashiyama-ku. 81 75 541 1234. ttp://kyoto.regency.hyatt.com/hyatt/pure/spas/. nfo@hyattregencykyoto.com. Seemingly expensive. I would advise going to Takayama for a luxurious yet affordable spa experience (10,000Yen)!
Shunkoin Temple. t___@. 2 Myoshiji-cho, Hanazono, Ukyo-ku. 81 75 462 5488. ev.taka.kawakami@gmail.com. ttp://www.shunkoin.com. -10:30 AM, 10:40 AM-12:10 PM, 1:30-3 PM daily. ccommodations: ¥4000-5000; Tour: ¥2000, including ''matcha'' green tea and sweet. The temple's American-educated vice abbot, Rev. Taka Kawakami, offers a detailed English tour of temple and leads Zen meditation lessons. The temple hosts many important artistic and cultural properties related to Zen Buddhism and also connected to Shinto and Christianity, and also offers accommodation for ¥5000/night.
'''Geisha walking lecture'''[http://www.kyotosightsandnights.com/walking.html]If your are interested about the world of the Geisha, you shouldn't miss the walking lecture by Peter MacIntosh . The walk will have you tour the Gion district where Peter, will give you an insider's view into the past, present and future of this unique and exotic world. If you're lucky you might see a Geisha walking by to one of her appointments. Reservation is to be made by phone: +81 090-5169-1654
During warmer months, Japanese and foreigners alike gather on the banks of the Kamo River to drink, set off fireworks, and make merry. The area around the Sanjo Bridge is the most popular. It's a friendly, welcoming scene. In summer months, on Fridays and Saturdays, a group of fire dancers and drum players occasionally hold free performances.
Photo session as Maiko/Geiko. F Ouka Bldg., 576 Gion-cho Minamigawa Shijo-tori Hanamikoji Nishi-iru Higashiyama-ku. ion. 75-661-0858. ttp://www.yumekoubou.info/english/index.html. 0:00am - 8:00pm. ,975yen. If you are interested in having a photo session dressed up as a Maiko or Geiko (geisha) or, for men, as a samurai, several studios in Kyoto provide this service at affordable price. The session includes full make up and dress in a kimono and normally lasts for 1.5-2 hours. Options include indoor or outdoor shots (strolling in Gion dressed up as a geisha!), plus at Yumekoubou they will take a few photos with your own camera while they dress you up, for free. It is recommended to select a plan and make reservation online - in some studios they speak very limited English. More links: http://www.yumeyakata.com/eng/index.html, http://www.maica.net/e/index.html
Buy
There is a nice selection of reassuringly non-tacky traditional souvenir shops around Arashiyama station in Western Kyoto, selling fans and traditional sweets. More tacky stores can be found in Gion and the approach to Kiyomizu Temple, selling keyrings, cuddly toys, and garish ornaments. Other traditional souvenirs from Kyoto include parasols and carved wooden dolls.
More unconventional but colorful (and relatively cheap) souvenirs are the wooden votive tablets produced by temples, which bear an image relevant to the temple on the reverse. Visitors to the temples write their prayers on the tablets, and hang them up within the temple.
Manga and anime enthusiasts should visit Teramachi Street, a covered shopping street off the main Shijo-dori, which boasts a large manga store on two floors, as well as a two-story branch of Gamers (a chain of anime stores), and a small two-story anime and collectables store.
Many ATMs in Kyoto do not allow non-domestic credit cards to be used, but ATMs in post offices and Seven-Eleven usually do, so if you find your card rejected or invalid in an ATM then try and get to a post office (_X____ / ''yuubinkyoku'') to use their ATMs instead. Look for the PLUS or Cirrus logos, whichever you find printed on the back of your ATM card. Another option is Citibank, which should work, too. There is an old standby international ATM at the top floor of Takashimaya Department Store at Shijo/Kawaramachi in the "Cash Corner." The bank of ATMs in the basement of the Kyoto Tower shopping center (across the street from JR Kyoto Station) also includes one machine where international cards may be used.
'''Gallery Gado''' 27 Miyashiki-cho Hirano, Kitaku (''on Kinukake no Michi, near Kinkakuji''). 075-464-1655. Open everyday, 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM. Gallery Gado sells modern woodblock prints (''ukiyo-e'') with traditional themes. The gallery also has catalogs of the work of artists who are maintaining this art form. All prints are authentic woodblock prints; postcard-sized prints are available for ¥800, medium-sized prints for ¥2000-3000, and large prints for a few ten thousand yen. [http://www.gado.jp]
Books
'''Junkudo''' (''8th floor of BAL building on Kawaramachi-dori between Shijo and Sanjo streets''). +81 075-253-6460. Open daily 11 AM to 8 PM. Huge bookstore with big selection of English books and magazines.
Splurge
In the shopping areas adjacent to Kiyomizudera (on the other side of the Kamo River), it is possible to purchase samurai swords and top of the line kimonos. Do not be surprised if the prices for either item exceed ¥3,000,000.
Kyoto incense is also famous. It usually has a very delicate yet fragrant bouquet. Incense is relatively agreeable in price (¥400-2000). You will be able to find it between Nishi and Higashi Hongwanji.
Eat
If you've just stepped off the train and the first thing on your mind is a bite to eat, there are several restaurants on the tenth and eleventh floors of the Isetan department store attached to Kyoto station. Most of the offerings are Japanese, including a veritable Ramen village, with a few casual Italian cafes as well.
'''Local specialties''' include: hamo (a white fish served with ume as sushi), tofu (try places around Nanzenji temple), suppon (an expensive turtle dish), vegetarian dishes (thanks to the abundance of temples), and kaiseki-ryori (multi-course chef's choice that can be extremely expensive).
Budget
'''Musashi Sushi''' one of the oldest kaitenzushiya (conveyor belt sushi) restaurants in Kyoto, it is located directly across chain Kappa Sushi at the corner of Sanjo/Kawaramachi. All of the sushi is handmade, though it may take a while to see something new float by. Fortunately, the seats surround the chefs, so you can request whatever you want if you don't see something you like. Price: ¥137 per plate (usually 2 pieces per plate).
'''Mikoan''' - Owned by a female Joudou Shinshu priestess. Go here for some good, cheap vegetarian food, as well as to pet her two cats. From Teramachi, go across Shijo and walk down the street for a few blocks. There will be a very small alley with a sign on it that advertises the restaurant on the right hand side.
'''Kappa Sushi''' is a chain kaitenzushiya (conveyor belt sushi) restaurant on the corner of Sanjo and Kawaramachi at the entrance to the Shinkyogoku/Teramachi covered mall. Lots of variety and cheap prices, but the sushi isn't handmade — machines are used to cut the rice and fish. Price: ¥100 per plate (usually 2 pieces per plate).
'''Kick-up Bar''' is a tiki-themed bar & grill outside the Keage Tozai line subway station (nearest Exit 1) and on the opposite side of the street from the Westin Miyako Hotel. They have the best meatball sandwich in Japan for ¥800 and loaded pizza made from homemade dough (medium for ¥1500). It's a small place, but the food is good, and the owner and his son are American and speak English.
'''Santouka Ramen''' is a Hokkaido style ramen shop in the Sanjo-Keihan above-ground plaza & bus station. For about ¥900 they have excellent pork broth ramen. Don't forget the broth-boiled egg for ¥200. Look for the line outside.
'''Mr. Young Men''' is a pleasantly grubby okonomiyaki restaurant downtown, at the corner of Shijo and the covered shopping street of Teramachi. Basic English menus are available. A basic dish of Osaka-style okonomiyaki will run about ¥800, although a few variations (including a bizarre cheese and potato version) are available for about the same price.
'''Hati Hati''' is an Indonesian restaurant on Kiyamachi, near Takoyakushi. It has great food and atmosphere, but it's occasionally converted into a bar and a performance space for local bands and DJs at night on weekends. For really late night food on Kiyamachi, there is a cheap, open-air '''falafel''' cafe a couple doors down from Hati Hati that never seems to close.
'''Donguri''' is a cheap yet very nice okonomiyaki restaurant on the Northwest corner of Kawaramachi and Shijo. It's a sub-level place so it might take a bit to find it. It's next to the OPA department store. It's about ¥500 yen for an okonomiyaki and about ¥300-500 for a namachuu (mid sized mug of beer). Great place for a date or nicer evening.
Mid-range
'''Kappa Sushi (on Pontocho)''' is a reasonably-priced (for fresh sushi) restaurant. They have an English menu which is, unfortunately, inferior to the Japanese menu. Specials change daily, but are generally on the pricey side. Sit at the sushi bar, and eat well-apportioned nigiri off of banana leaves with your fingers. Not a bad place to try real o-toro for ¥800 a plate.
'''Cafe Rue Ribera''' is a new, very beautifully arranged and welcoming petit restaurant and bar that has just been open for a year. Opened by a very nice, welcoming woman who speaks very good English (having spent some time in England). Located just near Enmachi Station on the Sagano Line. Tel/Fax: +81 075-812-2351. Open 11:30am til 1:30am. Lunchtime 11:30am til 2:30pm. Closed Tuesdays.
'''efish''' 798-1 Nishihashizume-cho +81 075-361-3069 (''near the Idemetsu gas station, across the river from Keihan Gogo ________ station''. Open every day, 11 AM to 11 PM (until 10 PM in the winter). This cafe, tucked away down a hidden side street, has a trendy ambiance and river views. For lunch, try the okra curry (¥850) or soup and bread set (¥650). [http://www.shinproducts.com]
'''Siam''' (_V_____jA tiny but wonderful Thai curry restaurant on Marutamachi-dori about 100m east of Nishioji-dori. The food is delicious, reasonably priced and spice levels are indicated on the menu. Relax in a soft-lit room decorated with exotic paintings from Bali, while the friendly staff prepare your meal right in front of you. English menu available. Open: 11:30-15:30 & 18:00-21:00. Closed: Wednesdays.
'''Fuka'''(_n___jLocated west of the Imperial Palace and just a bit south of the Kyoto Prefectural Office, this old shop makes the best nama-fu (wheat gluten filled with sweet bean paste) in Kyoto and supplies many sweet shops and restaurants throughout the city. There might not be enough supplies to sell over the counter, so it is best to arrive early. Open: 9AM-5PM. Closed: Mondays
'''Tengu''' A chain izakaya offering their own beer and good shared food with occasional seasonal specials. One is located underground with an entrance near the corner of Sanjo/Kawaramachi.
'''Anil''' A nice Nepalese restaurant in the Daini Kankou building 6th floor on Kiyamachi. It's got a great atmosphere and awesome food. The dahl, cheese nan and momo dumplings are highly recommended.
'''Vietnam Frog''' Located just above Sanjo-Keihan station this nice little Vietnamese place as pho and other favorites at a moderate price: approx. 800-1500 yen.
Sweets Paradise. otokurosu Hankyu Kawaramachi 6th Floor. 75-212-2234. ttp://www.sweets-paradise.com/shop/shijokawara.html. pen from 10:30 AM to 9:30 PM. 1480. Sweets Paradise is the famed all-you-can-eat cake and dessert restaurant. While they do offer some main dishes, no one comes here for anything but the sweets! After you pay, you can eat as much as you want for 90 minutes.
Splurge
'''Pontoch?''' (___l__) is a narrow lane running from Shijo-dori to Sanjo-dori, one block west of the Kamo River. One of Kyoto's most traditional nightlife districts, the restaurants here run the gamut for super-exclusive geisha houses to common yakitori bars. Many have pleasant open-air riverside terraces. Rule of thumb is, any establishment with a menu and prices outside is OK, but others are best skipped.
'''Mishima-tei:''' If you have a yearning for ''sukiyaki'', and your pockets are deep, you must visit Mishima-tei at the junction of Teramachi-dori and Sanjo-dori. Here you will be bowed in and shown to your own private tatami room by your personal kimono-clad hostess. There, having helped you to order, she will prepare your ''sukiyaki'' feast on the hotplate set between you. Order the "premium beef", and the richly marbled meat will just melt in your mouth, and require almost no chewing whatsoever: it is delectable ? and it should be since two of you will spend around ¥25,000 in less than an hour on 360 grams of beef and a few vegetables! (although there is a 'tourist set' Sukiyaki 150gms on the menu which results in a bill of about ¥13,600 for 2 (probably only americans will leave feeling hungry)
Drink
Kiyamachi, between Shijo and Sanjo, is packed with drinking establishments. There are the inevitable hostess bars with tuxedo-ed touts pacing out front, but there are also plenty of pubs and block-buildings full of idiosyncratic one room bars as well. Near the Sanjo end, keep an eye out for '''Pretty Space''', also known as "Mushroom Bar", and be sure to compliment the owner on committing to the theme with his haircut. Also on that end of Kiyamachi is '''Rub-a-Dub''', a one-room reggae bar in the basement on the main corner that can either be an over-crowded mess or a box of delirious fun, depending on which record is on (and how much you like Red Stripe) either way you must try the jerk chicken.
A good start to the evening would be '''A-bar''', a hard-to-find (on 2nd floor) izakaya close to the Shijo/Kiyamachi corners. Food is good and reasonable - daily sashimi specials and fried goods, especially. You share long tables with foreigners and locals alike; a friendly thing to do would be to pour beers (¥550 Yebisu) for your neighbors and Suei-san, the proprietor.
Nearby is a cafe owned by the photographer Kai Fusayoshi, who created the book "Beautiful Women of Kyoto." It's called '''Hachimonjia.''' Lots of interesting people, from artisans to doctors to people who you can't exactly figure out show up. On Kawaramachi, go north until you see the huge red ball. Look up, and on the third floor, above a blues bar, you'll see a sign for it, although it's in kanji.
Another excellent, and quite hard-to-find, izakaya is '''Ichariba'''. It is on the second alley between Kiyamachi and Pontochiyo if you come from Pontochiyo's north end. They serve excellent food for the price and the drinks are good too.
'''Zen Cafe''' - ¥390 per drink (Spirits, basic cocktails and draught beer) and bar snacks. A place to meet travelers and locals as it is located next to popular hostel "K's House". The staff are friendly and speak good English and are happy to offer advice on what to see and do from a local's point of view.
'''Bar Africa''' - bland, but if there's a football match from home that you need to catch, they have cheap Asahi jugs. Also, their foosball table is very well kept. Across from the Hub, infra.
'''Bar Moonwalk''' [http://www.barmoonwalk.jp/] offers a large selection of drinks for ¥200 each. Also, finger food available. [http://www.barmoonwalk.jp/shopinfomation_rokkakukiyamachi.html This one] located in the city center is a small and cozy place. Use the elevator to get in.
'''Bar This Way''' [http://www.barthisway.com/] is a Dutch owned bar located next to Royal Hotel (between Kawaramachi Sanjo and Oike dori). They offer a large selection of beers especially from The Netherlands and Belgium and many other drinks and food (including handmade gyozasoup). The staff speaking Dutch, English, Japanese, Chinese and German are friendly and prices very reasonable. Bar This Way is on the 3rd Floor (Tanakabld.) and you need to use the elevator to get in.
No night in Kyoto is complete without the requisite after hours visit to all-night '''Ing''' (a.k.a., "Box Bar," or "the office"). Proprietor Hako-san will keep bringing you big bottles of Sapporo (¥600 each shareable bottle), happy to join for a drink when offered. Food there is always an option - tofu salad & potato pizza are good for the price (¥600). Get ready for Rolling Stones, competitive Jenga, sharing tables with odd drunk people, and clothes permanently soaked in smoke. Good luck finding it. If you see '''Hamid's Falafel''' you're on the right track. Ing is on the second floor of a building slightly south of Hamid's.
'''Bar Eclipse''': near The Museum of Kyoto, this snazzily designed basement bar is tucked away at the back of '''Restaurant Crescent''' open 6pm until midnight and closed on Monday. No charge, drinks from ¥800 served by slickly dressed competent bartenders.
The Fushimi district is known for its sake breweries; tours are available at '''Gekkeikan'''.
Sake Bar Yoramu. __a_`_q______. ijo-dori east of Karasuma. arutamachi and Karasuma-Oike subway stations. 81-75-213-1512. oram@sakebar-yoramu.com. ttp://www.sakebar-yoramu.com/index_eng.html. pm - 12 am, closed Mondays and first Sunday of the month. From the unusual to the standard, this sake bar has both an impressive selection of traditional Japanese rice wine. Even more impressive is the barkeep and owner, who's from Israel, who can translate your preferences in wine into sake. Well-aged sake is available, busting the myth that sake does not age. Traditionally-brewed sake ranging from slightly cloudy to yogurt-like may also be available.
Nikki's Bar. ishi-Kiyamachi 804 Daini Kankou Building. 000-0500. 00yen. This is a nice little bar ran by a gregarious Nepalese guy named Nikki. It's got a great bunch of regulars and new customers are always warmly welcomed. It's located just north of Hamid's Kebab shop. Mixed drinks and beer run ¥700 per drink and shots are ¥500. It's a little hard to find because it's on the 8th floor. If you can't find it ask the folks working at Hamid's.
'''British and Irish pubs:'''
'''The Hub''': on the small streets connecting Kiyamachi to Kawaramachi, lots of TVs for sports, cheap beer (¥700/pint) (especially with a ¥500 membership) and more expensive imports; food, however, is mediocre. This is basically the headquarters for English-speaking tourists and gaijin residents for happy hour. Avoid the cheap cocktails at Happy Hour - they are mostly ice cubes with little to drink. If you want some inside information about where to go, where to eat, what to see, etc., ask a group here. One of the larger bars in Kyoto, it is a popular spot for happy hours and goodbye parties. The real draw is the foosball, darts tournaments, and, upstairs in the back, the pool table.
'''Pig & Whistle''': underwent a renovation last year, adding a more stylish whiskey bar to its original drinks bar. This is a popular spot, located right above the Sanjo Keihan subway station. If you hear live music, go on up; though it probably won't be great music, it will draw a crowd. Food here is also mediocre.
'''The Gael Irish Pub''': (formerly known as "Tadg's Irish Pub") convenient location if you are downtown (located in Gion at Shijo and Kawabata-dori). Open mic nights can be a mixed bag depending on who comes (always excellent jazz, no longer holding poetry readings apparently). Great portions of food. Definitely go for rugby games.
'''Hill of Tara''': a quiet Irish-style pub with good food. A bit more expensive than the frozen stuff from the Pig or the Hub, but a much mellower scene. In the Spring and Summer, they have a nice, though small, second floor balcony.
'''McLoughlin's''': Is presided over by the most amiable owner/chef Tadg McLoughlin (formerly of Tadg's Irish Pub), located on Kiyamachi between Sanjo and Nijo. Food is reasonably priced, with main course starting at \1,200 and a 5 course special menu which is great value. Great quality beers, domestic and foreign (including microbrews). The staff are friendly and speak English. Live music on weekends. Giant screen TV (Mr McLoughlin being a Rugby fanatic), darts, foosball and a great view of east Kyoto. Happy hour is 5pm-8pm.
'''Kick-Up Pub''': across from the Westin Miyako Hotel, a gaijin-friendly tiki-themed bar with fresh Bass Ale pints (¥800) and ice cold Asahi mugs (¥600). Not a problem if alone because the proprietors, Masuyo and Rick, speak both Japanese and English and are up for a good chat. See the Budget Food section for food information.
Sleep
Kyoto has a wide range of accommodation, much of it geared towards foreign visitors. During peak seasons, when accommodation is difficult to get, consider staying in Osaka. A thirty minute train ride from Kyoto Station to Osaka will cost you \540 one way.
Budget
Temple lodgings
Many temples in Kyoto own and run their own lodging complex known as ''shukub?'' (_h_V), usually located on or near temple grounds. Guests are often invited to participate in morning prayer service (''otsutome'') held at the temple. Unfortunately, most temple lodgings do not have English-speaking receptions, and curfews and check-in/out times tend to be strict.
Hiden-in. __c_@. 5 minutes by foot from Sennyuji-michi Stop on buses #202, #207, and #208. 81 075-561-8781. PM. 0 AM. 4,500 per person with breakfast. In southern Kyoto near Fushimi Inari Shrine and Tofuku-ji Temple. Rooms are separated by sliding doors only; maximum capacity: 20; one shared bath.
My?ren-ji Temple. __@__. eranouchi Omiya Higashi-iru, Horikawa, Kamigyo-ku. hree minutes by foot from Horikawa Teranouchi Stop on Bus #9 and 12 - the former leaves from Kyoto Station, the latter from Shijo Karasuma subway station. 81 075-451-3527. PM. AM. 3,800 per person (including entrance fee to public bath). Facilities: in-room air-conditioner; no bath but a public bath is nearby; guests should bring their own bath towel and shampoo as the public bath only lends out mini-towels and soap.
My?shin-ji Daishin-in. __S_____S_@. 7 Myoshinji-cho, Hanazono, Ukyo-ku. 0 minutes by foot from Hanazono Station on JR Sagano Line or 7 minutes by foot from Myoshin-ji Mae Stop on buses #8, #10, and #26. 81 075-461-5714. 81 075-461-5714. 4,700 with breakfast. 10 rooms with a maximum capacity of 50; in-room air-conditioner, kotatsu heating table in winter, shared bath and toilet. Lights out at 10pm.
My?shin-ji Shunko-in Temple. __S___t___@. 2 Myoshinji-cho, Hanazono, Ukyo-Ku. ive minutes by foot from the JR Hanazono station, 12-15 minutes away from the JR Kyoto station by JR Sagano Line. 81 075-462-5488. ev.taka.kawakami@gmail.com. ttp://www.shunkoin.com/. 5:00 - 19:00. y noon. yen;5,000 per person (including a tour of temple and rental bicycle). Zen meditation & tour: ¥2000 (including a bowl of maccha green tea and Japanese sweet).. The only English available temple accommodation in Kyoto. The guest house has two rooms. A room has a private shower room, toilet, and AC (or a heater). Next to the guest house, there is a fully equipped shared kitchen. The temple hosts many important artistic and cultural properties related to Zen Buddhism, Shinto, and Christianity. One of the properties is the Bell of Nanbanji, which is designated as a national cultural important properties. Call or e-mail for reservation.
My?shin-ji T?rin-in. 9 Myoshinji-cho, Hanazono, Ukyo-ku. 0 minutes by foot from Hanazono Station on JR Sagano Line or 7 minutes by foot from Myoshin-ji Mae Stop on buses #8, #10, and #26. 81 075-463-1334. 4,700 with breakfast; \6,000 with breakfast and dinner; Shojin meal (Buddhist vegetarian) \3,000 - \8,000; Shojin cooking class \3,000. Only accept reservations from foreigners if they are with a Japanese person. 10 rooms with a maximum capacity of 40; shared bath. Curfew at 9pm. Lights out at 10pm.
Roku?-in. ____@. 4 Kitahori-cho, Saga, Ukyo-ku. ear Arashimaya, six minutes by foot from Saga-Arashiyama Station on the JR Sagano Line. 81 075-861-1645. 4,500 per person with breakfast. Only for female visitors. 10 rooms with a maximum capacity of 30; during peak season, guests traveling alone may be asked to share a room with another single guest; towels not provided; one bath. Crowded during autumn foliage season. Curfew at 7:30pm. Closed during New Year's holidays.
Hostels
bAKpAK Gion Hostel. -244 Miyagawa Suji, Higashiyama-ku. 81 75-525-1433. 81 75?525-1433. ixed dorm ¥2500, quad room ¥3500. In the midst of the Gion (geisha district), close to Kaburen-jo Theater, a place for Kyo Odori (Kyoto Dance).
bAKpAK Kyoto Hostel. -234 Miyagawa Suji, Higashiyama-ku. etween Kawaramachi and Gion, next to the Minamiza theater. 81 75-525-3143. ttp://www.kyotohostel.net/. orm ¥2500/person to Japanese-style quad ¥14,000/room.
Bola Bola Guest House. 5-17 Horigauchi-cho Uzumasa, Ukyo-ku. ear JR Uzumasa train station on the western part of Kyoto, 15 min. train ride from Kyoto station. 81 75-861-5663. ttp://www.bola-bola.jp/top_english.htm. PM - midnight. 1 AM. yen;2500 dorm, ¥3500 private room (¥2500 each for 2 or more people). A friendly and well kept guest house. The owner speaks English and is very willing to help foreign guests.
Gojo Guest House. -396-2 Gojobashi-higashi, Higashiyama-Ku. min. walk from Keihan Gojo Station. 81 75-525-2299. ttp://www.gojo-guest-house.com/. -10 PM. 1 AM. orm ¥2500/person, twin ¥6000/room, triple ¥9900/room for three people, ¥12,000 for four. A Japanese style hostel with a cozy cafe located in the Higashiyama area.
Guest House - The Earth Ship. 3-15 Naka-Adaticho, Yoshida, Sakyo-ku. ear Kyoto University, 10 min. walk from Keihan Demachiyanagi Station. 81 75-204-0077. ttp://www.eonet.ne.jp/~earthship. ormitory ¥2,500, Private room starts at ¥4,000 for one person, ¥6,000 for two people, ¥7,500 for three, ¥8,000for four. There is an additional discount on these prices for long stays. Friendly shared living room.
Guesthouse Yahata. 44 Yahata-cho, Gojo-agaru, Nishinotoin, Shimogyo-ku. ff Gojo-dori, west of the subway station. 81 75-204-5897 (Japanese only). ttp://yahata-inn.com/. -9 PM. 1 AM. unk beds from ¥2,500, private rooms from ¥8000 (2-4 people), with free breakfast.
Hirano's B&B Kyoto. 8 Nakano-cho Oshikoji-sagaru, Shinmachi-dori, Nakagyo-ku. min. walk west from the Karasuma-Oike subway station. 81 75-256-3081. r_hirohira12@yahoo.co.jp. ttp://www.geocities.jp/hiranosguest_house/. yen;4000 single, ¥3500/person for two, includes breakfast. A quiet and intimate B&B (three guest rooms), near Nijo Castle. Guests experience being at home with a Japanese family.
J-Hoppers Kyoto Guesthouse. 1-2, Nakagoryo-cho, Higashikujo, Minami-ku. min. walk south from Kyoto Station, near Kujo subway station. 81 75-681-2282, SKYPE:jhoppers. ttp://kyoto.j-hoppers.com/. -10 PM. -11 AM. ormitory bed ¥2,500. A new and clean backpackers hostel. Rental bikes ¥500/day, Internet ¥300/hour. No curfew; up-to-date local information by native staff.
K's House Kyoto. 18 Nayacho, Shichijo-agaru, Dotemachi-dori, Shimogyo-ku. min. walk east from JR Kyoto Station along Shichijo-dori, 4 min. walk from Keihan Line Shichijo Station. 81 075-342-2444. nfo@kshouse.jp. 81 075-342-2440. ttp://kshouse.jp/kyoto-e/. -10 PM. 1 AM. ormitory room ¥2500, twin/double/triple room from ¥2900, single room from ¥3500 (prices per person). Opened in November 2003, this foreigner-friendly hostel with English speaking staff, has received favorable reviews for reasonable prices, cleanliness and amenities like internet access and kitchens. The hostel itself can be difficult to find, as it is located down a narrow street off the main road.
Tomato Guesthouse. 35 Shimizu, Nishi-iru Shiokoji-Horikawa, Shimogyou-ku. min. walk west from Kyoto Station. 81 75-203-8228. ttp://pascon.gozaru.jp/enindex.html. -9 PM. ates ¥3900 - ¥2200.
Tour Club. 62 Momijicho, Higashinakasuji, Shomensagaru, Shimogyo-ku. min. walk northwest from Kyoto Station. 81 75-353-6968. ttp://www.kyotojp.com/. ouble en-suite ¥3490 per person, quad en-suite ¥2,930 per person. A friendly, clean hostel with both dorm and private rooms. There is a beautiful zen garden and traditional Japanese-living room. Free wifi, coffee and tea and the chance to try on a kimono. Air-con, bicycle rental and laundry are also available.
Utano Youth Hostel. Nakayama-cho, Uzumasa, Ukyo-ku. ff Kitaoji-dori. 81 75-462-2288. tano@yh-kyoto.or.jp. ttp://www.yh-kyoto.or.jp/utano/. :00-11:30 PM. efore 10 AM. orm room ¥3300, twin ¥4000/person. Near Ryoanji and Kinkakuji in northwestern Kyoto. There are three bus lines that go out there (26 from Kyoto Station, 10 and 59 from Sanjo-Keihan station) and the stop is right in front of the hostel (Utano Youth Hostel Mae). Bicycle rentals are available and guests are welcome to use the kitchen, bath and laundry facilities.
Budget Hotels, Minshuku & Ryokans
Budget Inn. ear Nishi-Honganji, 7 min. walk northwest from Kyoto Station. 81 75-344-1510. ttp://www.budgetinnjp.com/. :00-9:30 PM. 0:30 AM. orm bed ¥2500/night, private rooms ¥10,980 triple through ¥14,980 quad. Under the same management as Tour Club (above). A variety of dorm and private rooms, with elevator access. Kitchen and laundry facilities available. Offers discounts for stays beyond 4 nights.
Crossroads. 5-14 Ebisu Banba-cho, Shimogyo-ku. 0 min. walk west of Kyoto Station, or #205 bus to Ume Koji Koen-mae then 2 min. walk northwest. 81 75-354-3066. 81 75-354-3022. ttp://www.rose.sannet.ne.jp/c-inn/. PM. 0 AM. hree rooms: one person \4000, two persons \7350, three persons \10,400. A ryokan with shared shower & toilet facilities. 11 PM curfew.
Duo Inn. f___I_E_C__. F, 1039-31 Kamiyagawa-cho, Nishi-iru, Onmae, Imakoji-dori, Kamigyo-ku. bout 50 min. from Kyoto Station via #50 bus, or 15 min. walk north from JR Enmachi Station. 81 75-465-8800. 81 75-464-1110. ttp://www.duo-inn.com/eg/. ingles ¥6300, doubles ¥8400—10,500, triples ¥12,600, 2-4 person Japanese-style room ¥14,700. Apartment hotel. Fairly far out in northwest Kyoto but the prices are reasonable. Prices are significantly lower for stays of 7 or more nights. Payment by cash only. No daily cleaning and no bath towels provided. Bus journey from Kyoto Station takes about 50 minutes.
Econo Inn Discount Hotel. 7 Hirai-cho, Kawaramachi-Gojo Sagaru, Shimogyo-ku. 5 min. walk northwest from Kyoto Station, or just south of Kawaramachi-Gojo stop on buses 4, 17, 205. 81 75-343-6660. 81 75-343-6667 . ttp://www.econo-inn-kyoto.com/en/. PM - 11 PM. 1 AM. liding rate scale depending on length of stay: singles go from ¥5880 for one night down to ¥3880 for 21 nights or more; a few small short-term singles range start at ¥3780. 21 Western-style private rooms: singles, doubles, and triples. All rooms have a bath unit, air-conditioner and TV. Caters more to long-term stays.
GuestHouse Bon. Q_X_g_n_E_X_w_}_x. 3-2 Kamimonzen-cho Murasakino, Kita-ku. min. west of Kita?ji subway station K04, north exit. 81 075-493-2337. ttp://www.guesthouse-bon.com/e-index.html. -10 PM. 1 AM. ingles ¥3800—4500, doubles ¥4500-6000, triples ¥7500. Located in northwest Kyoto, immediately east of Daitokuji. Inexpensive bicycle rentals. The guest house owner has lived in Western countries before and can speak fluent English and a pinch of Spanish. All Japanese-style rooms, but can be converted to dorm style upon request for larger parties.
Hotel Chrysantheme. 1, Hirano Kamihatcho Yanagi-machi, Kita-ku. ear Ritsumeikan University, 30 min. from Kyoto Station via buses #50 or 205. 81 75-462-1540. 81 75-462-1571. ttp://www.chrysantheme.co.jp/english/. -9 PM. 1 AM. ingles ¥4800, doubles ¥9600 (without long-stay discounts). Western-style rooms with shower and bath shared between every two rooms. Also oriented towards the longer-stay market, with discounts starting at 5 days and increasing through 30.
Hotel Iida. z_e_____c. 17 Shiokoji-agaru, Akezu-dori, Shimogyo-ku. min. northeast of Kyoto Station. 81 075-341-3256. 81 075-351-3051. ttp://www.hotel-iida.co.jp/e-menu.html. ingles ¥5250-7875 (Japanese), ¥6300-7875 (Western); doubles ¥8400-14,700; triples ¥12,600-23,625. Mostly Japanese style rooms, with a few Western rooms, both varieties with or without private bath.
Ikoi-no-Ie. e____. 85 Ushitora-cho, Rokujo-dori, Shinmachi Higashi-iru, Shimogyo-ku. 2-15 min. walk northwest from Kyoto Station, 5 min. west from Gojo subway station. 81 075-354-8081. 81 075-354-8068. y arrangement. 1 AM. ingles with shared bath ¥4750, private bath ¥7600; doubles ¥7600-8400 shared, ¥9600-11,000 private; triples ¥9600 shared, ¥12,000-¥13,500 private; quad ¥15,000 private. New facility, opened 2007. All non-smoking rooms, some en-suite. The ground floor rooms near the lobby can be noisy. LAN ports in most rooms.
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'''Kyoto Cheapest Inn''' (''Near Nijo castle, 1-3 min walk from bus stop Horikawa Marutamachi & Marutamachi Chiekoin''), e-mail : kyoto@cheapest-inn.com, [http://kyoto.cheapest-inn.com/]. Dorms from, ¥1,000-2,500/night, private rooms, ¥7,800. Convenient locations with transportation, shopping, banks and a post office close by. Credit cards accepted, English available, sheets included. Long Stay Discount. Special offer with winter price, sometimes : ¥1,000-2,000/night (dormitory), ¥6,200- (private suite).
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Kyoto Travelers Inn. __s_g___x___[_Y_E_C__. 1 Enshojicho, Okazaki, Sakyoku. min. walk northeast from Higashiyama subway station T10, exit 1. 81 075-771-0225. 81 075-771-0226. PM. 0 AM. ingles ¥6825 and up, doubles ¥12,600 and up. One of the fewer hotels in eastern Kyoto, near Heian-jingu.
Palace Side Hotel. arasuma Shimodachiuri Agaru, Kamigyo-ku. min. walk north from Marutamachi subway station K07. 81 (0)75-415-8887. 81 (0)75-415-8889. PM. 1 AM. ingles ¥6000-7000, twin ¥9000-9800, doubles ¥9800. It's exactly where the name suggests: across the street from the Kyoto Imperial Palace and park, on Karasuma (near the intersection with Marutamachi). It's a Western-style hotel reminiscent of a much more expensive hotel that could use a good scrubbing. The staff speak fluent English, and the front desk is always open, as are computers with Internet access in the lobby. It's often used by academic groups from nearby universities, though, so advance reservations should be made. There are discounts for stays of three or more nights.
Ryokan Hiraiwa. _______. 14 Hayao-cho, Kaminokuchi-agaru, Ninomiyacho-dori, Shimogyo-ku. 5 min. walk northeast from Kyoto Station, or take buses #17 or #205 from pier A2 to Kawaramachi-Shomen, the third stop. 81 (0)75-351-6748. ingles ¥4200?5250, doubles ¥8400. A self-proclaimed ryokan (really a minshuku) catering almost entirely to the foreign market, in an old Japanese house plastered with English signs, warnings and tips. All rooms are Japanese style. Traditional breakfast is available for an extra charge. Shared bathrooms or a public bath half a block away. But it's cheap (¥4200 for a single, ¥8400 for a double, breakfast not included) and reasonably friendly, though opinions beyond that vary widely. Slightly inconveniently located halfway between the station and the center of town (it's bit of a hike to either).
Ryokan Kyoraku. 31 Kogawa-cho, Shichijo-agaru, Akezu-dori, Shimogyo-ku. min. walk north from Kyoto Station. 81 075-371-7161. 81 075-371-1260. ttp://www.ryokankyoraku.jp/en.index.html. -10 PM. 0 AM. ingles ¥5200-6000 with shared bath, ¥6000-6600 private; doubles ¥9200-10,200 shared, ¥11,000-12,300 private; triples ¥13,800-15,200 shared, ¥16,000-17,700 private. Recently renovated, with 14 Japanese-style rooms (half with private bath, half without) and two Western-style double rooms (both with private bath). 11 PM curfew.
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Ryokan Nakajimaya. ukkoji-agaru, Takakura-dori, Shimogyo-ku. minutes walk from exit 15 of the Karasuma subway station. 81 075-351-3886. ingle ¥6000. Very friendly Japanese style ryokan, located in downtown Kyoto. Shared bath and toilets. The owner speaks a little English. Can be booked via the Welcome Inn Reservation Center.
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Station Ryokan Seiki. 4-5, Kitakarasuma-cho, Higashikujo, Minami-ku. min. walk south from Kyoto Station. 81 075-682-0444. 81 075-682-0171. ttp://www5.ocn.ne.jp/~seikis/index_e.html. ingles ¥5500, doubles ¥8000-9000, triples ¥12,000-13,000. Shabby building, but the staff is friendly.
Super Hotel Kyoto Karasuma Gojo. arasuma Dori, Gojo Kudaru, Osaka Machi 396-3. 0 min. walk from Kyoto Station, or at exit 8 of Gojo subway station. 81 075-343-9000. 81 075-343-9001. ttp://www.superhotel.co.jp/en/s_hotels/karasuma.html. PM-midnight. 0 AM. ingles ¥6090 (¥5040 off season, ¥7140 peak season); doubles ¥7140-8180-9240. A Japanese budget hotel chain. All rates include tax and breakfast.
Toyoko Inn Kyoto Gojo-Karasuma. 93, Gojo-Karasumasho Karasuma-dori Matsubara-sagaru Shimogyo-ku. 5 min. walk north from Kyoto Station, 3 min. walk from Gojo subway station, exit 2. 81 075-344-1045. 81 075-344-1047. ttp://www.toyoko-inn.com/e_hotel/00040/index.html. PM. 0 AM. ingles ¥6200, doubles ¥7200, triples ¥8200. A Japanese budget hotel chain. Good value for twin rooms. Online reservations showing vacancies & bookings available on all sites, enter as "General Guest" if you do not have membership. Two other locations nearby, at Shijo-Omiya [http://www.toyoko-inn.com/e_hotel/00027/index.html] and Shijo-Karasuma [http://www.toyoko-inn.com/e_hotel/00053/index.html], with similar prices
Midrange
Gimmond Hotel. min. walk east from Karasuma-Oike subway station. akakura-Oike-dori, Nakagyo-ku. 81 (0)75-221-4111. 81 (0)75-221-8250. ttp://www.gimmond.co.jp/kyoto/english/e_index.html. PM. 1 AM. ncluding taxes and fees: Singles ¥9,586–10,741, doubles ¥16,170, twin rooms ¥16,747–23,100. A foreigner-friendly hotel, neat and tidy and located downtown near City Hall. Discount for Internet booking.
Hearton Hotel Kyoto. igashi no Toin Dori Oike Agaru, Nakagyo-ku. min. northeast of Karasuma-Oike subway station, exit 1. 81 (0)75-222-1300. 81 (0)75-222-1313. ttp://www.heartonhotel.com/kyoto/. PM. oon. ingle ¥11,000, twin ¥22,400. Mid range, Western-style hotel located downtown.
Hotel Monterey Kyoto. Jyo Minami Karasuma-dori, Nakagyo-ku. est side of Karusuma, south of Sanjo. 81 (0)75-251-7111. PM. 1 AM. ingles around ¥15,000–18,000, doubles around ¥20,000–23,000. Opened in March 2007 the staff are very keen to please. 15 minute stroll to '''Sanjo Shopping Arcade''' and less than five minute walk from subway station. Rates vary but they have discounts for internet booking and travel agents offer combined JR tickets and room rates. Includes spa and two restaurants (French and Japanese).
Kyoto Garden Hotel. uromachi-dori, Oike Minamiiru, Nakagyo-ku. bout 1 min. west of Karasuma-Oike subway station (Karasuma subway line), exit 4-1. 81 75-255-2000. ttp://www.kyoto-gardenhotel.co.jp/index.html. PM. 0 AM. ingle \9,240, double \12,600-13,650, twin \14,700-16,800, triple \19,950. ffice@kyoto-gardenhotel.co.jp. 81 75-255-2389. Convenient downtown location; a short walk away from the Kyoto International Manga Museum, a long (but manageable) walk away from Nijo Castle. All rooms are non-smoking. Guests with their own LAN-enabled laptops/netbooks can get internet access in their rooms free of charge; just borrow a connection kit from the front desk. Actual rates vary depending on the time of year and discounts/special offers are available for online bookings.
Kyoto Tower Hotel. arasuma-dori Shichijo-sagaru. Shimogyo-ku. min. walk north from JR Kyoto Station, immediately across the street. 81 (0)75-361-3212. 81 (0)75-343-5645. ttp://www.kyoto-tower.co.jp/kyoto_tower_hotel_chain/. PM. 1 AM. yoto Tower: Singles ¥8,000–14,500, twin ¥16,000–31,000. Annex and Dai-Ni: ¥6,500–11,500, twin ¥14,000–¥19,800. Foreigner-friendly hotel, and the location across the street from JR Kyoto Station is impossible to miss. The same company operates two additional hotels nearby: the '''Kyoto Tower Hotel Annex''', a few blocks northwest, and the '''Kyoto Dai-Ni Tower Hotel''', east of the station.
Ryokan Shimizu. 44 Wakamiya Agaru Shichijo, Shimogyo-ku. min. walk northwest from Kyoto Station, near Nishi-Honganji. 81 (0)75-371-5538. 81 (0)75-371-5539. ttp://www.kyoto-shimizu.net/. yen;6,000/person (¥5,000 during winter), higher near holidays. A modern style ryokan which is welcoming to foreign visitors. The owners can speak some English. En-suite facilities are provided and a Japanese style breakfast is available. There is a communal Japanese bath facility.
Splurge
Hyatt Regency Kyoto"
address="644-2 Sanjusangendo-mawari, Higashiyama-ku"
directions="Near Shichi-jo station on the Keihan line, or you can take buses #206, #208, or #100 from JR Kyoto station"
phone="+81 75-541-1234"
email="info@hyattregencykyoto.com"
price="¥43,000 for twin room"
url="http://kyoto.regency.hyatt.com/"
>5 star hotel with contemporary interior design. All its restaurants feature show kitchens, which is a first in Kyoto.</sleep>
Kyoto Hotel Okura. awaramachi-Oike, Nakagyo-ku. t Kyoto Shiyakusho-mae subway station, T12. 81 75-211-5111. 81 75-254-2529. ttp://www.kyotohotel.co.jp/khokura/english/. PM. 1 AM. yen;19,000 for a single, through ¥49,000 for a double-occupancy corner room; top-floor suites climb higher still. A large, modern Western-style hotel located downtown.
New Miyako Hotel. V_s_z_e__. 7 Nishikujo-Inmachi, Minami-ku. cross street from Kyoto Station, Hachijo exit. 81 (0)75-661-7111. 81 (0)75-661-7135. ttp://www.miyakohotels.ne.jp/newmiyako/english/. PM. 1 AM. yen;11,550 singles through ¥57,750 suites, tax included. The largest hotel in Kyoto with over 700 rooms, and the prices to match: starting at ¥10,000 for singles and ¥21,000 for doubles. Located immediately south of Kyoto station. If you get a room facing north, you'll be able to see the bullet trains coming in and out of the station, as well as the glass windows from the exterior of the Isetan department store that seem to reflect the sky if the weather conditions are just right. The new and slightly more expensive south wing opened in late September of 2005.
Ryokan Tamahan. 77 Gion, Shimogawara-cho, Higashiyama-ku. ion District, 10 minutes by taxi from Kyoto Station. 81 75-561-3188. ttp://tamahan.jp/. pm. 1am. 25,000 per person. Traditional Ryokan in quaint Gion district. It's worth the experience for at least one night. The price includes Japanese dinner and a choice of Japanese or Western breakfast. There is free wifi access. Staff are friendly but speak limited English.
Westin Miyako Kyoto. eage, Sanjo, Higashiyama-ku. 81 (0)75-771-7111. 81 (0)75-751-2490. ttp://www.miyakohotels.ne.jp/w_m_kyoto/english/. PM. 1 AM. Established in 1890, this is the oldest Western-style hotel in Kyoto. It has over 400 rooms, starting at ¥33,000 for twins. (If you make a reservation through a travel agency, you may get a lower price.) It has about 30,000 square meters, and a few Japanese gardens, one of which, Aoiden (___a____) was built by Jihei Ogawa (_________q). The gardens can be visited by non-guests. It's near Keage Station (subway - Tozai Line, T09), or you can take a shuttle bus from JR Kyoto Station.
Get out
Amanohashidate - literally "the bridge to heaven", it is considered one of Japan's top three scenic view (along with Matsushima in Miyagi prefecture and Miyajima in Hiroshima prefecture). It forms a thin strip of land straddling the Miyazu Bay in northern Kyoto Prefecture, hence the name. Visitors are asked to turn their backs toward the view, bend over, and look at it between their legs.
Himeji - about an hour by Shinkansen west of Kyoto, Himeji boasts a spectacular traditional castle.
'''Miho Museum''' [http://www.miho.or.jp/english/] - an hour southeast of Kyoto deep in the hills of Shiga prefecture. Building designed by I.M. Pei. Closed in winter.
Mount Hiei - an ancient hilltop temple complex that traditionally guarded (and occasionally raided) Kyoto.
Otsu - home to some great historical temples, Mount Hiei, and one of Lake Biwa's ports.
Lake Biwa - if the summer humidity has drained your will to sightsee, take a day swimming at the underrated beaches of western Lake Biwa. Popular choices include Omi Maiko and Shiga Beach, each about 40 minutes from Kyoto on the JR Kosei Line.
Nara - less than an hour's journey by train on the JR Nara line from Kyoto station, Nara is an even older capital than Kyoto and has a stunning collection of temples in a giant landscaped park
Osaka - about half an hour from Kyoto by JR rapid train, this bustling city offers more retail opportunities and a central castle.
Uji - the best tea in Japan and the Byodo-in temple.
Kurama - less than an hour's journey by a local train from Kyoto Demachi-Yanagi station, small village of Kurama has real ''onsen'' (Japanese natural hot spring).