Do
Festivals
Flower Festival. ttp://www.hiroshima-ff.com/. irst weekend of May. dmission is free. This is Hiroshima's biggest festival, begun in 1975 to celebrate the Carp's first baseball championship. There are food vendors and things for sale, but live performances now dominate the program, with comedians and J-pop bands on stages along Heiwa-odori. It's the smaller performances that make the Flower Festival worthwhile, though, particularly in the stalls near Jizo-dori, where you might stumble across a phenomenal Cincinnati Reds-style logo. Red is intended to symbolize a never-ending fighting spirit.
The 1978-80 '''''Akaheru''''' (Red Helmets) team was almost certainly the team's apex, setting league records for home runs and winning two championships.
However, the Carp's last pennant was 1991, giving them the longest title drought in Japanese baseball.
Slugger '''Koji Yamamoto''' is '''Mr. Red Helmet''', the team's all-time great (now retired). The cream of the recent crop are outfielder '''Shigenobu Shima''', the '''Red Godzilla'''; outfielder '''Tomonori Maeda''', the '''arrogant samurai'''; and pitcher '''Hiroki Kuroda''', a recent export to the Los Angeles Dodgers.
Cash has been a recurrent problem throughout the team's history, with local citizens pitching in to keep the team afloat on more than one occasion. Today, '''Mazda''' is the team's largest minority owner, but without a deep-pocketed sponsor like Tokyo's Yomiuri Giants or even Sapporo's Hokkaido Nippon Ham Fighters, the Carp struggle to hang on to free agents.
The Carp's mascot, '''Slyly''', bears a striking resemblance to the Philly Phanatic because he was designed by the same firm.
In 2006, American-born manager '''Marty Brown''' caused a local sensation by throwing a base while arguing a call; t-shirts with the phrase "My Manager Throws Bases" immediately became ''the'' must-have item for Carp fans.}}
Chuo-koen Family Pool. -41 Motomachi, Naka-ku. 82-228-0811. AM-6PM. yen;670 adults, ¥340 kids. Open from July 1st-August 31st every year, right when it's needed most, this huge, open-air pool/water park is a popular place for kids and families to beat the heat. And it's easy to find, right in the center of the city.
Big Wave. stram to Ushita. 82-222-1860. ttp://www.sports-or.city.hiroshima.jp/locate/02/gaiyou.html. AM-9PM daily, except 8:30AM-9:30PM July-early September. wimming ¥260 kids, ¥530 adults; ice-skating ¥910 kids, ¥1520 adults. On the other hand, if you're a serious swimmer, Big Wave offers longer hours and an Olympic-size 50 meter swim lanes from July to early September. Then, from November to April, it turns into an ice-skating rink. (Rental skates are available, although people with big feet may not manage.)
Hiroshima Toyo Carp Baseball. azda Zoom Zoom Stadium, 2-3-1 Minami-Kaniya, Minami-ku. 0 minute walk west from the south exit of JR Hiroshima Station. 82-223-2141. ttp://www.carp.co.jp/. The much-beloved and much-bemoaned Carp are Hiroshima's entry in the Central League of '''Nippon Professional Baseball''' [http://www.npb.or.jp/]. After more than fifty years in a stadium across the street from the Peace Park, the Carp moved to the new '''Mazda Zoom Zoom Stadium''' to begin the 2009 season. While the team doesn't win much, the enthusiasm of the fans can hardly be faulted, and Hiroshima is as good a place as any to witness the fervor of Japanese baseball fandom. Tickets range from ¥1800 to ¥3500. Ask for the ¥1800 Carp Performance (_J_[_v _p_t_H_[_}___X) tickets — that's where the drums, chants, and excitement are. Tickets are on sale at the stadium starting at 10AM, the "Green Window" at JR Hiroshima Station, and a number of convenience stores.
Hiroshima Sanfrecce Soccer. ig Arch Stadium, 5-1-1 Ozukanishi, Numata-cho, Asa-Minami-ku. stram to Koiki Koen-mae. 82-233-3233. ttp://www.sanfrecce.co.jp/. ickets are available at most convenience stores. Reserved seats ¥3000-4500 in advance, ¥500 more at the stadium; unreserved ¥2300 in advance, ¥300 more at the stadium. Sanfrecce (Japanese/Italian for "three arrows", from a Japanese folk tale) are Hiroshima's entry in the '''J-League''' [http://www.j-league.or.jp/eng/], although they date back to 1938 as a semi-pro team. As such, they're thoroughly grounded in the local athletic tradition of rarely playing well yet never badly enough to be remarkable about it. But the fans are great, and the quality of play in the J-League is all right, although obviously not comparable to the major European leagues.
And if you're on a quest to complete the whole set of Hiroshima professional sports, visit the '''JT Thunders''' [http://www.jti.co.jp/knowledge/thunders/] of the '''V-League''' [http://www.vleague.or.jp/] (volleyball), who hold court at the Nekoda Kinen Gymnasium, and the '''Hiroshima Maple Reds''' [http://www.maplereds.net/] of the '''Japanese Handball League''' [http://www.jhl.handball.jp/eng/], Women's Division, who play at the Hirogin no mori Gymnasium.
Work
Hiroshima features the standard array of English teaching opportunities, with branches of major ''eikaiwa'' like '''Geos''', '''AEON''' and '''ECC''' as well as small, niche language schools. The '''Hiroshima International Center''' (see Contact) is a good place to make inquiries, as is a Saturday night at '''The Shack''' or '''Kemby's''' (see Drink).
'''Mazda''' is largest employer of foreign personnel in the area, due to their relationship with Ford Motors in Detroit and their manufacturing plants in South America. Contract workers from Southeast Asia and the South Pacific are brought in by Hiroshima-based firms for industries such as ship-building, notably in the nearby city of Kure.
Some non-Japanese work legally — or under-the-radar — as bartenders or sell jewelry in Nagarekawa, which motivates occasional visa crackdowns (see Stay safe).
Buy
The city center is packed with shopping areas. Across the street from JR Hiroshima Station is '''Fukuya''', which has a good selection of English language fiction and travel books on the 10th floor. '''DeoDeo''' and '''Best / Yamada Denki''' are the major electronics stores. There's a towering Denki to your left as you exit JR Hiroshima Station, and a big DeoDeo on Aioi-dori close to the Peace Park.
Hiroshima has a few major department stores, including the aforementioned Fukuya and '''SOGO''', which also has a good foreign language book section (6th floor), across the street from the Peace Park. For the latest in Japanese teen fashion, though, '''PARCO''' is the place to look. It's in a towering concrete block - just look up - on Hachobori and Hon-dori. '''Club Quattro''' is on the top floor of PARCO, and it plays host to most touring bands that deign to visit Hiroshima. The covered shopping streets of Hon-dori (_{_____jhave plenty of small shops for all purposes, especially clothing. '''SunMall''', at the far end of Hon-dori, has CDs and '''Uniqlo''', which has good, cheap clothing with larger sizes than most Japanese stores.
A tip for souvenir hunters on a tight budget: check out the fourth floor of the DeoDeo just off Hon-dori, next to the old Hiroshima Mitsui Bank building. There is a 100 yen shop with an improbably excellent selection of distinctively Japanese souvenirs: pottery, sake sets, art, statuettes, signs and cheap ''ukiyo-e''. It's on the left side of the store. Remember, nobody at home knows you only paid 100 yen for it!
Eat
Hiroshima is famous for its style of '''''okonomiyaki''''' (___D______), which literally means "cook it as you like it". Often (and somewhat misleadingly) called "Japanese pizza", it is better described as a type of savory pancake made with egg, cabbage, soba noodles, and meat, seafood or cheese. It is grilled in layers on a hot plate in front of you and slathered liberally with ''okonomiyaki'' sauce, with optional extras such as mayonnaise, pickled ginger, and seaweed. It sounds and looks like a mess, but can be very tasty and filling. To give you a sense of the civic pride involved here, the Hiroshima tourist information office offers a map with a whopping ''97'' shops serving ''okonomiyaki'' within city limits.
Hiroshima style and Osaka style are the two competing types of ''okonomiyaki'', and if you raise the subject of ''okonomiyaki'' with a local, be ready to state your preference between the two! Basically, in Hiroshima the ingredients are layered and pressed together while cooking, while in Osaka the batter is mixed together first. According to local legend, both dishes originate from a cheap snack called ''issen y?shoku'' (___K_m_H) or "one-cent Western meal", which consisted of a wheat and water pancake served with scallions and sauce.
Hiroshima is also famous for its '''oysters''' (available between October and March) and a maple-leaf-shaped pastry called '''''momiji manj?''''' (_______\__). (''Momiji'' is the leaf of a Japanese maple tree.) Momiji manj? are available with a variety of fillings, including the more traditional ''anko'' (______), red bean and ''matcha'' (____), or green tea; it's also available in cream cheese, custard, apple and chocolate flavors. Boxes of ''momiji manj?'' are considered the quintessential Hiroshima souvenir, but Miyajima is the best place to buy it fresh.
If you're pressed for time on your way out of town, the sixth floor of JR Hiroshima Station has a good, cheap ''ramen'' shop, an ''udon'' shop, a decent ''izakaya'', a conveyor belt sushi place, and '''STEP''', a good ''okonomiyaki'' joint with English menus. There are Japanese and American chain restaurants clustered near the station, including '''Starbucks''' on the third floor (south exit), '''McDonald's''' on both sides of the station, and the ultra-cheap (¥180 per bowl) '''Bikkuri Ramen''' (___________[____) just across the river from the south exit.
Budget
Jupiter Import Foods. R Hiroshima Station (north exit). 82-242-7371. ttp://www.jupiter-coffee.com/. AM-9:30PM. If you're making dinner at your hotel or missing a certain snack, Jupiter packs a lot of imported foods and alcohol into a pretty small space, with a good selection of standard Western fare and others, particularly Thai and curries. They tend to have a basket or two of free dessert samples near the entrance. There's an entrance right outside the ''shinkansen'' ticket machines and outside the station as well.
Okonomi-mura. __D____. -3 Nakamachi, Naka-ku. 82-241-2210. ttp://www.okonomimura.jp/. he shops keep their own hours, but most will be open around 11AM, and a few stay open until 2-3AM. igure on ¥700-1500 for a meal. Three floors packed with no less than 27 ''okonomiyaki'' shops. This, indeed, is Hiroshima culinary nirvana. They all serve beer and ''okonomiyaki'' with some variations (''kim-chee'' oysters, etc), and they'll all start clamoring for your business as soon as you walk through the door. It's right behind PARCO, with a distinctive 'Okonomi-mura' arch out front.
Okonomi Monogatari Ekimae-Hiroba. __D______ _w_O_L__. 0-1 Matsubara-cho, Minami-ku. iroshima Full Focus Building, 6th floor. 82-568-7890. 0AM-11PM. eals run about ¥900. Another ''okonomiyaki'' village, with almost twenty shops sharing the same floor, in a vaguely Edo-ish atmosphere. This one is across the street from JR Hiroshima station, next to the Fukuya department store and across from the central post office. (You'll see a banner sign outside.)
Organ-za. -4-32 Tokaichi-machi, Naka-ku. orimoto Building, 2nd floor. 82-295-1553. ttp://organ-za.com/. -F 5:30PM-2AM, Sa 11:30AM-2AM, Su 11:30AM-midnight. ost entrees ¥850, with dessert sets and drinks ¥500. If you and your companion have completely different tastes in mind, Organ-za offers dishes from India, Japan, Thailand, Vietnam, and others direct from the imagination of a capable and creative chef. English menus are available. There's also a full bar (tended sometimes by Chie from the late, lamented '''Alcoholiday''') and frequent live music.
Otis!. -20 Kako-machi, Naka-ku. 82-249-3885. ttp://homepage2.nifty.com/live-otis/. -Sa 12PM-11PM, Su 5PM-11PM. ost meals ¥700-1200, shows ¥2300-4500 including a drink. Serving Tex-Mex in Hiroshima for more than twenty years, Otis! is the most vegetarian and organic-friendly restaurant in town. They also have a fairly busy schedule of live music, both Japanese and international.
Sankanou. O____. 1-2 ?suga, Higashi-ku. ttp://okonomiyakisankanou.seesaa.net. ood and a cold draught beer for about ¥900. A tiny ''okonomi'' shop in a little back alley near the railroad tracks and beside Hiroshima Station. The shopkeep speaks English and is a friendly, enthusiastic young manga fan. He's decorated his shop with Gundam models, moe-moe figurines, manga posters and baseball and wrestling action figures. This shop serves ''okonomiyaki'' in the traditional method, directly on the hot griddle built into the table in front of you. Highly recommended for a visiting anime/manga nerd in search of true Hiroshima ''okonomiyaki'' (the same way Ukyo serves it in ''Ranma ?''!)
Tachikoma. _______. -9 Dambara 1-chome, Minami-ku. ambara 1-chome tram stop. 82-262-7635. igure on ¥1000 for a meal. A small ''okonomiyaki'' restaurant about 300m coming from Hijiyama Park towards the main JR Station on the right. At least as good as the Okonomi-mura restaurants. You can also take-away your ''okonomiyaki''.
Mid-range
Cusco Cafe. -23 Hachobori, Naka-ku. 82-502-7366. ttp://barco.ftw.jp/u4737.html. u-Th 11AM-midnight, F-Sa 11AM-1AM. ulti-course set meals from ¥1500-3500; burgers, chicken, and other dishes from ¥590-950; ''tapas'' from ¥390 each. South American food (served by Peruvians) with the occasional Japanese twist — care for some squid ink on your ''paella''? There's a pleasant, eclectic ambiance to the decor and the menu, and a full bar if you're not in a hurry.
J Cafe. -20 Fujimi-cho. 82-242-1234. u-Th 12PM-2AM, F-Sa 3AM. yen;1100-1700. A stylish cafe with a menu of lighter fare such as waffles, sandwiches, and crepes. The comfy red couches make it a place to hang out for a while, which locals do — note the late hours. It's just off the intersection of Heiwa-odori and Jizo-dori. (The circle 'J' logo is easily mistaken for an @ sign.)
Kurobutaya. _____. -5-14 Funairi-dori, Naka-ku. obashi-cho tram stop. 82-295-9510. 1:30AM-2PM, 5:30PM-11PM. xpect —2000 with a drink. Offers an English menu and a variety of small dishes. Perfect to have a taste of many things. Nice ''izakaya''-like ambiance with jazzy tunes and friendly staff.
Nanak. -2 Fukuromachi, Naka-ku. 82-243-7900. 0AM-3PM, 5PM-10PM. unch sets from ¥700, dinner from ¥2300. Probably the biggest of Hiroshima's many good Indian restaurants. Individual sets are available, but ordering as a group is the best value. It's easily recognized by the uniformed fellow in the window booth facing the street, hard at work on the day's curry and oblivious to the passersby. English menus are available.
Nono Budo. 8-6 Motomachi. ogo-Pacela Credo Building, 7th floor. 82-502-3340. 1AM-3PM, 5:30PM-9PM. yen;1575 for lunch (¥2100 for dinner); for ''nomih?dai'' (_________j(all you can drink), add another ¥1900. A non-smoking, healthy "viking" buffet style restaurant with a wide selection of curries, tempura, and other Japanese dishes, some of which are made with locally-grown and organic ingredients. They have a great selection of juices, tea, and coffee, too.
Roopali. 4-32 Wakakusa-cho, Higashi-ku. 82-264-1333. -Sa 11:30AM-2:30PM, 5PM-9:30PM; Su 11:30AM-9:30PM. ets from ¥2000. The best food in the under-developed area on the ''shinkansen'' side of JR Hiroshima station — coming out of the gates, head up to the main street and turn right. It's about three blocks away. A wide range of curries are on offer, and there is plenty to eat for vegetarians. The ''thali'' sets are good and filling. Comprehensive English menus are available, and it's kid-friendly to boot. If you're just arriving in Hiroshima on an empty stomach, you can't do much better than this.
Shichida Life Cafe. -3 Mikawa-cho, Naka-ku. 82-246-0700. -Th 11AM-10:30PM, F-Sa 11AM-11:30PM, Su 11AM-9:30PM. ttp://shichida.co.jp/english/. unch sets from ¥1200, dinner courses ¥2800. Offers numerous organic and vegetarian options, such as salads, sandwiches, veggie burger, rice and noodle dishes; also a good selection of teas, coffee, and other beverages.
Spicy Bar Lal's. -12 Tatemachi, Naka-ku. 82-504-6328. 1AM-2:30PM, 5PM-10PM. unch sets from ¥880, dinner sets from ¥1700. Indian and Nepali cuisine, with several good course dinners for individuals and pairs. Befitting the name, they're specific about their spiciness: you can choose a strength from 1-100. Basic English menus are available. It's just off Hon-dori, near the post office.
Splurge
Kanawa (Oyster Boat). cross from the Otemachi Building, Naka-ku. 82-241-7416. ttp://www.kanawa.co.jp/. -Sa 11AM-2PM, 5PM-9PM; Su to 8:30PM. unch sets from ¥3100; dinner ¥7000-¥15,000, not including drinks. Docked just south of the Peace Park, this floating restaurant offers some of the tastiest oysters in Hiroshima, along with lovely traditional decor and nice river views (moreso at night). There's plenty of room aboard, but it does fill up, so reservations are suggested.
Shabuchin Shabu Shabu. -1-6 Kokutai-ji, Naka-ku. 82-246-7327. 1:30AM-2PM, 5PM-10PM. xpect to pay from ¥3,000-5,000, including drinks. Small, friendly, family run ''shabu shabu'' restaurant in the fashionable Jizo-dori area. They make their own sauces, and all the ingredients are fresh; dip fresh meat and vegetables in a hot sauce to lightly cook it before dipping it in a savory sauce to eat.
Sumojaya Takabayama. cross from Nobori-machi Park, Naka-ku. bisu-cho tram stop. 82-223-0400. ttp://takabayama.co.jp/menu/menu/menu041015e01.html. -Sa 11:30AM-1:30PM, 5PM-11PM. yen;3000 per person for dinner; lunch specials around ¥1000. ''Chanko nabe'', the food of sumo wrestlers, is a filling, fun, and healthy dish for anyone to enjoy, especially on colder days.
Drink
'''Nagarekawa''' has the highest concentration of bars in Hiroshima — the good, the bad, and the hostess — but there are a number of good, quiet wine bars on Hakushima-dori, and plenty of foreigner-friendly pubs clustered around the giant PARCO building [http://www.net-flyer.com/]. Yagenbori-dori is full of bars and clubs that are spread across floors of the various high-rise buildings.
'''''Sake''''' enthusiasts should not miss the chance to visit the breweries of '''Saijo''', particularly during the annual festival in October — see above.
Barcos. -9 Yagenbori-dori, Naka-ku. anwa Building, 2nd floor. 82-246-5800. ttp://barco.ftw.jp/u4720.html. PM-5AM. All races and creeds are in attendance on an average night at Barcos — from the locals to the international community (and not just English teachers), from fashionistas and lunkheads to lost souls and chatterboxes. If you come on a weekend or a holiday, be prepared for a massive crowd. The DJs play a wide range of music, including soul, techno, R&B, and Latin, but they're happy to take requests.
Fukuya Beer Garden. -1 Matsubara-cho. ukuya Department Store, 11th floor. 82-568-3111. pen 6-10PM, varies by season. Many of the department stores have beer gardens on their roofs, and this is a nice one, directly across from JR Hiroshima Station — just you and a few hundred of your closest friends under the stars, sharing a terrific city view. Regardless of the crowds, though, there's plenty of room and the lines are well-managed. Admission varies from ¥1000 to ¥2500 by day of the week and season, which includes all you can drink, some desserts, and a ''ton'' of Western and Japanese fried food.
Kemby's. -9-1 Ote-machi, Naka-ku. 82-249-6201. ttp://www.kembys.com/k-top-e.html. u-Th 6PM-1AM, F-Sa 6PM-2AM. A big, friendly bar that's a favorite with locals for watching major sporting events. There's plenty of seating, and pool & darts as well. The English menu offers enough food (mostly Italian, Mexican) to make this a valid dinner spot (and Happy Hour is at dinner time, 6PM). The same folks run the smaller '''Kemby's AM''' [http://www.kembys.com/a-top-e.html] at 8-27 Nagarekawa, open 10PM-6AM daily.
Kulcha. -45 Fukuro-machi, Naka-ku. 82-543-5006. pens 6PM daily, closes late. A popular bar just off Hon-dori, frequented mainly by ex-pats. It's known for monthly theme parties and televised rugby and soccer games. If you're walking towards Parco from Rijo-dori, take a right at Andersens. Walk one block down (past Daiei supermarket) and turn left. The bar is on the right.
Mac Bar. -18 Nagarekawa-cho, Naka-ku. 82-243-0343. -Sa open 6PM, close varies — as late as 6AM. A friendly, venerable hole-in-the-wall owned by a chatty fellow with a ''massive'' collection of rock CDs. He's happy to take requests or just talk about music.
Molly Malone's. -20 Shintenchi, Naka-ku. eigeki Building, 4th floor. 82-244-2554. ttp://www.mollymalones.jp/. pen 11:30AM daily, close late. appy Hour M-Sa 5-7PM. Another popular foreigner hang-out. It's a reliable source for rugby and soccer games, but arrive early if you want a good viewing spot. The Irish food is just all right (¥1000-1800), but the desserts (¥500) are quite good with a beer.
Mugen 5610. -3 Yagenbori-dori, Naka-ku. tsuma Bulding, 2nd & 3rd floor. 82-240-7788. ttp://mugen5610.com/. 0PM-4AM. over is usually around ¥1200, which may include a drink or two. Local and traveling DJs spin quality dubstep, reggae, and drum 'n bass with the aid of a great sound system. The two floors are split between a big dance space and a more laid-back bar area.
Sacred Spirits. -3 Tate-machi, Naka-ku. pex Building, lower level. 82-240-0505. u-Th 7PM-2AM, F-Sa 7PM-5AM. over varies — usually ¥1000 or so, with a drink included. In business for years as '''Jamaica''', Sacred Spirits has a long, narrow basement space devoted to mostly decent, occasionally great dance music, at least until it's too crowded to move any more. Foreigners should be sure to bring an ID, as they do check. It's on a side street just off the Hon-dori arcade — there will inevitably be people milling around outside, despite the owners' best efforts at neighborly noise control.
The Shack. -10 Shintenchi, Naka-ku. akarazuka Building, 6th floor. 82-504-4170. ttp://www.kembys.com/s-top-e.html. u-Th 6PM-1AM, F-Sa 6PM-4AM. appy Hour 6PM, and again at midnight. Probably the most spacious bar in Hiroshima, with separate areas to chat around the bar, settle into restaurant-size tables, or play darts & pool. The bar food is all right, but the salad bar is the best deal if you're hungry. It's a popular meeting spot and a good place to start (but not finish) a night out.
Sleep
In August 1945, Yamaguchi was sent to Hiroshima on a business trip. With the job done, his co-workers left, but Yamaguchi realized that he had forgotten his personal seal for signing official documents, so he headed back into town to pick it up. That's when the atomic bomb was dropped on Hiroshima. Badly burned, deaf, and partially blind, he spent a night in the ruins of the city, and then found a railway station on the western edge of the city that was back in operation. He managed to catch a train home to Nagasaki, where — as Yamaguchi explained to his disbelieving boss what had happened in Hiroshima — the second atomic bomb was dropped.
In 2009, the Japanese government certified Tsutomu Yamaguchi as the first known person to have been at ground zero of both atomic blasts.}}
Budget
For a short night before an early train, the cheapest digs in town will be to nap in the easy chairs at the two Internet cafes outside the south exit of JR Hiroshima Station (see Contact), or possibly a Nagarekawa karaoke box. You won't be the only one doing it, particularly on weekends.
K's House. -8-9 Matoba-cho, Minami-ku. 82-568-7244. ttp://kshouse.jp/hiroshima-e. yen;2500 for a 6 person dorm, ¥10,800 yen for room for 3 people with private bathroom. Part of the popular "K's House" hostel chain. No curfew or lockout, free wi-fi, computers with internet access available in the lobby for a small fee, and laundry facilities. Take the south exit from JR Hiroshima Station, then follow the tram tracks across the river. K's House is a blue fronted building.
Hana Hostel. -15 Kojin-machi, Minami-ku. minute walk from Hiroshima Station. 82-263-2980. ttp://hiroshimahostel.jp. -6 bed dorm ¥2700, private rooms from ¥3500 per person. A comfortable hostel close to JR Hiroshima station. Every private room has a bathroom or a toilet/washstand. They offer free wifi with your laptop (¥100 per 30 min for hostel computers), and rental bikes at ¥500 per day. There's no curfew or lockout, and they're willing to hold luggage early or after check-out.
J-Hoppers Trad Guesthouse. -16 Dobashi-cho, Naka-ku. obashi-cho tram stop. 82-233-1360. ttp://hiroshima.j-hoppers.com. bed dorm ¥2500, private rooms ¥3000 per person. A lively backpackers hostel with English speaking staff. Every private room is Japanese style. They also offer free wifi with your laptop (¥100 per 30 min for hostel computers) and rental bikes (¥500 per day), with no curfew or lockout and held-luggage services.
Business Ryokan Sansui. -16 Koami-cho, Naka-ku. oami-cho tram stop. 82-293-9051. ansui@ccv.ne.jp. ooms by reservation only, from ¥4200 single, ¥7500 double. Only a few minutes away from the Peace Park. Run by Kato-san and her family, this ''ryokan'' is quiet and clean, with breakfast available at ¥600. An excellent place to stay if you wish to practice your Japanese, meet and mingle with the locals. Kato-san closes the doors at midnight.
Capsule Inn Hiroshima. J_v_Z___C___L__. -6 Yagenbori. 82-248-0101. yen;2300 per capsule, ¥100 per hour for checking in early, and another ¥100 to hold passport/valuables. Available only for male visitors. In the Shintechi Entertainment District. On Aioi-dori, after M5 Kanayama-cho tram stop, turn left at the corner with a post office. Enter the sixth small street on the left. (There are actually two hotels on the both sides of the street.) Has a decent ''sento'' (hot bath) for guests.
Hiroshima Town Hotel. -20 Nishi Hiratuka-cho, Naka-ku. 82-546-0705. ttp://www.townhotel24.co.jp/shop/hiroshima.html. Sort of a hybrid of a business hotel and a love hotel, featuring a bewildering array of cheap rates from the 70 minute "shower" (¥2300) up to 20 hours (¥5900). That said, it is clean, convenient, and comfortable.
Hiroshima Youth Hostel. -13-6 Ushita-Shinmachi, Higashi-ku. 82-221-5343. yen;1930 per night. ttp://www.ttec.co.jp/~hyh/. Off the beaten path, but well worth the savings. Kitchen facilities, Internet, and a swimming pool (summer only) are included in the rate. They do have an 11PM curfew, though. Take Bus #30 from JR Hiroshima Station.
Ikawa Ryokan. -11 Dobashi-cho, Naka-ku. obashi-cho tram stop. 82-231-5058. kawa@go.enjoy.ne.jp. ooms ¥5775-4725 single with/without bath, ¥9450-8400 double. Communal bath is available. Plain but serviceable ''ryokan'' with Japanese and Western-style rooms.
Minshuku Ikedaya. -36 Dobashi-cho, Naka-ku. obashi-cho tram stop. 82-231-3329. ingle rooms with/without bath from ¥4200 to ¥5775; double rooms from ¥7350 to ¥9450. The rooms at this ''minshuku'' are clean, bright, and pleasant. The staff speak enough English to get you checked in, although you may not see a trace of them afterward.
Mid-range
Chisun Hotel Hiroshima. 4-7 Nobori-cho, Naka-ku. 82-511-1333. ttp://www.solarehotels.com/english/chisun/hotel-hiroshima/guestroom/detail.html. conomy to deluxe single rooms for one person range from ¥7500-9500, including "ladies-only" rooms, while a variety of twin rooms cost ¥13-14,000. Bright, new, small rooms in a good location for exploring the city, right outside the Kanayama-cho tram stop. Buffet breakfast is available for ¥1200.
Comfort Inn Hiroshima. R___t_H_[_g_z_e___L__. -17 Komachi, Naka-ku. huden-mae tram stop. 82-541-5555. ttp://www.comfortinn.com/hotel-hiroshima-japan-JP027. ooms from ¥5775 single, ¥8400 double. A branch of the American hotel chain, offering Western-style rooms with plenty of business amenities not far from the Peace Park.
Dormy Inn. -18 Komachi, Naka-ku. huden-mae tram stop. 82-240-1177. ttp://www.hotespa.net/hotels/hiroshima/. ooms from ¥7500 single, ¥9750 double. Centrally located along Heiwa Odori, this is a comfortable and friendly full-service hotel with Western-style rooms, free laundry facilities, bike rentals, and a great ''sento'' bath. There's a complimentary taxi service from JR Hiroshima Station with advance reservation.
Hiroshima Grand Intelligent Hotel. -4 Kyobashi-cho, Minami-ku. 82-263-5111. ooms from ¥6300 single, ¥10,000 double. ttp://www.intelligent-hotel.co.jp/en/. A tall, pleasant Western-style hotel on the other side of the Ekimae bridge from JR Hiroshima Station, with a suitably grand lobby and comparatively modest guest rooms. Breakfast is served for ¥1350 buffet, ¥600 toast set. LAN Internet access is available in every room.
Hiroshima Intelligent Hotel Annex. -27 Inari-machi, Minami-ku. 82-263-7878. ooms from ¥6300 single, ¥10,000 double. Just down the street from the Grand, with comparable facilities.
Toyoko Inn Heiwa Odori. -15 Tanaka-cho, Naka-ku. 82-504-1045. ttp://www.toyoko-inn.com/e_hotel/00083/. ooms from ¥6090 single, ¥8190 double. An affordable business hotel on Heiwa Odori, within walking distance of the Peace Park. Also has a small shuttle from JR Hiroshima Station. There are three Toyoko Inns in Hiroshima, but this one is the most centrally located.
Via Inn. 82-264-5489. ttp://hiroshima.viainn.com. ooms from ¥6195. A tall business hotel with tiny rooms but a fair number of amenities, including Internet access in the lobby. It's tucked away behind the Hiroshima Post Office, outside the south exit of JR Hiroshima Station. Head between the coffee shop and the convenience store to find the front desk.
Splurge
Aioi Ryokan. -3-14 Ote-machi, Naka-ku. 82-247-9331. ooms with private baths from ¥21,000 single, ¥37,800 double. The closest traditional Japanese accommodations to the Peace Park, although only the upper floors have a view. Breakfast and dinner are included in the rate, and their versatile kitchen earns rave reviews for dishes high and low on the elegance scale. All of their tastefully appointed rooms have private baths, but there are communal baths on the seventh floor with a memorable view of the A-Bomb Dome.
ANA Crowne Plaza Hiroshima. -20 Naka-machi, Naka-ku. ukuro-machi tram stop. 82-241-1111. ttp://www.anacrowneplaza-hiroshima.jp/en/. ooms ¥16-20,000 single, ¥24-33,000 twin. Great location near the Peace Park, with multiple restaurants, a health club, free Internet, and all the amenities the price would suggest.
Hotel Granvia. -5 Matsubara-cho, Minami-ku. 82-262-1111. ttp://www.hgh.co.jp/english/. Located right outside the ''shinkansen'' gates (north exit) of JR Hiroshima Station, this will be the most convenient hotel for any late-arriving travelers. The cheapest single rooms with no meals (¥7600) aren't much more than an average business hotel, but spending time at the elegant lounge and restaurant — and splurging on a luxury twin room with a terrific view (¥22,000) — will raise the price tag.
Hotel Sunroute Hiroshima. -3-1 Ote-machi, Naka-ku. 82-249-3600. ttp://www.sunroute.jp/HotelInfoSVE. ooms from ¥8925 single, ¥16,800 twin. Just off Heiwa-odori, the top floors of this tall, modern hotel offer the best views of the Peace Park other than the Rihga Royal (below). There are two restaurants (Italian and Japanese) on-site. The amenities are basic (free Internet), but the location is excellent.
Rihga Royal Hiroshima. -78 Motomachi, Naka-ku. 82-502-1121. ttp://www.rihga.com/hiroshima. ooms start from ¥16,170 single and ¥23,100 double. Found a suitcase full of money? Royal suites clock in at a mere ¥346,500. Overlooking the Peace Park, this luxury hotel is also the tallest building in Hiroshima. There are several restaurants and lounges on premises, and a massive swimming pool/sauna for a fee (¥3150 adults, ¥1575 kids). Baseball fans take note: this is where visiting teams stay when they're in town, so the lobby is a good place to pick up autographs.
Contact
<listing name="Aprecio" alt="" directions="" address="10-3 Matsubara-cho" phone="082-506-1323" email="" fax="" url="http://www.aprecio.co.jp/hiroshima_ekimae/" hours="24 hours" price="¥300 for membership; ¥180 first 30 minutes, and ¥70 every 10 minutes thereafter"> An elegant net cafe with a wide variety of free drinks, ice cream and hot soup included in the price of admission. There's even a pool table and darts (and private showers towards the back). It's on the other side of the street from the south exit of JR Hiroshima Station, on the fifth floor of the building next to Fukuya and directly across the street from the post office.</listing>
<listing name="Futaba@Cafe" alt="" address="2-22 Matsubara-cho" directions="" phone="082-568-4792" email="" fax="" url="http://www.futabatosho.co.jp/net_cafe/" hours="24 hours" price="¥105 for membership; ¥405 first 60 minutes, then ¥94 every 15 minutes thereafter"> Free drinks and soft-serve ice cream are included in the price. Just ask for a "net open seat" (or a "game open seat" to include a PlayStation). Right next to JR Hiroshima Station — on the sixth floor of the GIGA/Futaba Building immediately to your left as you walk out of the station (south exit). </listing>
<listing name="Futaba@Cafe" alt="" directions="" address="2-2-33 Kamiya-cho" phone="082-542-5455" email="" fax="" url="http://www.futabatosho.co.jp/net_cafe/" hours="24 hours" price=""> Same deal as above, but closer to the Peace Park (on Hon-dori) in the Futaba Tosho Building, first floor.</listing>
<listing name="Global Lounge" alt="" address="1-5-17 Kamiya-cho, Naka-ku" directions="" phone="082-244-8145" email="" fax="" url="http://www.hiroshima-no1.com/lounge-eng.html" hours="M-Th 12PM-9PM, F-Sa 12PM-11PM" price=""> Part of a hodge-podge of foreigner-centric businesses — Outsider is a language school, Book Nook sells used books (albeit with a sorry selection), and the Global Lounge offers Internet access (¥200 for 15 min) and a meeting space. Coffee, tea, and soft drinks (¥200) are served, with beer and cocktails on Friday and Saturday nights.</listing>
<listing name="Hiroshima International Center" alt="" address="8-18 Naka-machi" directions="Crystal Plaza Building, 6th floor" phone="082-541-3777" email="" fax="" url="http://hiroshima-ic.or.jp/hice" hours="Tu-Sa 9AM-8:30PM, Su 9:30AM-6PM" price="Entry and basic facilities are free; some events require membership or a small fee"> The HIC offers an English reference library and "friendship lounge" with books, newspapers, and local info. For long-term visitors, there are free Japanese language lessons, cultural events (such as the Saturday Salons), and help with residency issues. Take the tram or bus to the Fukuro-machi stop.</listing>
Stay safe
Hiroshima has a rough reputation among Japanese people from other cities, thanks largely to the ''yakuza'' movies that were filmed in town. In reality, though, it's much safer than any large Western city. As with most places in Japan, petty theft is virtually non-existent. Nagarekawa, the nightlife district, does have its share of prostitutes, sex clubs, and rip-off hostess bars, but to no greater extent than
There have been a few surprise police raids on bars that offer dancing after 1AM, in accordance with a semi-obscure local law about public immorality that Hiroshima occasionally feels compelled to enforce — probably in order to catch people who are in the country illegally. Japanese citizens are generally allowed to leave right away, but foreigners have been made to stand in line to have their paperwork checked. If you find yourself in one of these situations, just stay calm, show the police your passport, and you'll eventually be allowed to leave without any trouble.
The Peace Memorial Park is a very popular school trip destination for Japanese students, and you may be accosted by kids working on school projects, asking you (in halting English) where you're from, what your name is, or whatever else their teacher has assigned them to ask. They travel in packs, so you should be able to see them coming from a distance and avoid (or engage) accordingly.
As mentioned above, visiting the sights related to the atomic bomb can be an '''intense experience'''. If you only have one day set aside for Hiroshima, you'll naturally wind up spending most of it at the atomic bomb memorials. For your own peace of mind, though, try to set aside time to relax and reflect in other parts of the city, such as '''Chuo-koen''' or '''Shukkeien''' (see above), both of which are only a short walk from the Peace Park.