'''Setagaya''' (___c_J) is in western Tokyo, and is the largest of the city's 23 wards.
Understand
Setagaya has a reputation as an upscale residential district, and features many areas of greenery. The funky shopping and nightlife area of '''Shimokitazawa''' (___k__), popular with students and young adults, is also located in Setagaya. The '''Sangenjaya''' (_O______) shopping district is also in Setagaya.
Get in
'''Shimokitazawa''' is on the Odakyu and Keio Inokashira train lines, just a quick hop from Shinjuku and Shibuya respectively. Most of the action is around the South Exit.
'''Sangenjaya''' is on the Tokyu Den-en-Toshi train line from Shibuya.
'''Komazawa-Daigaku''' is on the Tokyu Den-en-Toshi train line and near Sangenjaya. Komazawa University is a few minutes from the station.
Get around
By train
The main train lines serving Setagaya are the '''Odakyu''' from Shinjuku to Odawara and the Keio '''Inokashira''', Tokyu '''Toyoko''', and Tokyu '''Denentoshi''', all originating in Shibuya. Since all of these lines run generally westward from hubs on the Yamanote line, it can be somewhat difficult to travel north-south without going in to a hub and back out.
The Tokyu '''Setagaya''' line between Sangenjaya and Shimo-takaido is one of only two remaining streetcar lines in Tokyo.
See
'''Carrot Tower''' (_L_____b_g_^___[). Located in Sangenjaya, this is the tallest building in Setagaya and contains a free observation deck on the 26th floor.
'''Gotokuji''' temple (______) is the origin of the ''maneki-neko'' or beckoning-cat statuettes that bring good fortune to Japanese merchants the world over. Gotokuji station is on the odakyu line. However, the temple is also a short walk from Miyanozaka on the Setagaya line.
'''Kinuta Koen''' (_m_____j is a public park with a museum of modern art.
'''Komazawa Olympic Koen''' is a large public park, built for the 1964 Tokyo Olympics. It is about a 15-minute walk from Komazawa-Daigaku station, on the Tokyu Den-en-Toshi train line.
'''Setagaya Art Museum''' houses works by artists from the Primitivist School, such as Henri Rousseau. 17-minute walk from Yoga Station on the Den-en Toshi Line.
'''Tamagawa Daishi''' (_______t) is a Buddhist temple, and a branch of Kawasaki Daishi. It isn't very large and the location is in a nondescript residential area, but its curious attraction is hidden: an underground passageway that snakes its way under the building. There are statues and altars with lighting at various points, but much of the tunnel is in absolute darkness. It symbolizes a passage through the intestines of the Buddha (better not to dwell too much on the symbolism!) while the 88 Buddha statues in one of the chambers also symbolize the famous 88 Temple Pilgrimage in Shikoku. To get to Tamagawa Daishi, get off at Futako-Tamagawa on the Tokyu Den-en-Toshi Line (from Shibuya), and walk 10 minutes along the highway from Takashimaya department store.
'''Todoroki Keikoku''' is a natural canyon nestled in urban surroundings. With a small river and lush vegetation, it offers a pleasant natural environment. Todoroki station is on the Tokyu Ooimachi line.
'''Setagaya Koen''' is a public park with a pool, tennis court, baseball ground and so on. Ikeziri 1-5-27.
Do
'''Tollywood''', Daizawa 5-32-5 2F (''Three minutes from Shimokitazawa south exit''), ''03''-3414-0433, [http://homepage1.nifty.com/tollywood/]. This small theater (46 seats) specializes in independent short films, mostly Japanese. The films aren't dubbed or subtitled of course, but they're so offbeat and often bizarre that you're sure to have a good time anyway.
'''Okuraland''', Sakura 3-24-1,_@''03''-3420-0271. 15 minutes from Kamimachi station of Tokyu-Setagaya line. Here you can go bowling or practice your golf swing. There are also batting cages.
Buy
'''Shimokitazawa''' has many quirky shops.
* '''Ex''' shop sells artistic designed stuff like photo stands, postcards, clocks, accessories and so on.
* '''Yellow Pop''' shop carries an eclectic and well-stocked inventory of vinyl including punk, reggae, electronic, and hip-hop.
The '''Setagaya Boro-Ichi''' (___c_J_{___s) is a flea market that's held on the 15th and 16th of December and January each year. It's been drawing shoppers from all over Tokyo since it started in 1578. The main attraction is used clothing (such as kimonos) and antiques. Take the Setagaya line to Setagaya or Kamimachi and follow the crowds.
'''Dept''' is a good spot for used men's and women's clothes.
Haight & Ashbury. itazawa2-37-2. 3-5453-4690. ttp://www.rinjazz.com/kirakira/HaightAshbury/HaightAshbury.html. There are vintage clothes for girl. There interior decorations are very cute.
Eat
Shimokitazawa is your best option for restaurants and bars.
'''Buon Sangue''', ___c_J_____q__ 4-20-7 B1F, ''03''-3411-7776?. Excellent italian traditional restaurant, with several different type of pasta, meat, fish. Wood-oven made pizza is available on the ground floor.
'''BOTERO''', Komazawa 1-17-17, ''03''-3410-5922. Regular holiday is Tuesday
'''Cheese Cake Factory''', __158-0097 Yo-ga 4-28-18, ''03''-5716-5401, 10AM-8PM. Just what it says: it's a cheese cake shop.
Dining cafe Tsunami. _154-0012 Komazawa 1-3-1. few minutes from Komazawa station. '03'''-3424-0273. 1:30-1:00 (lunch only). Hawaiian food restaurant near Komazawa Station.
'''KURA''',_@KURA is at Yutenji, and other is at Gotanda, Shibuya, Nakameguro, and Yotsuka-ichi-shi. This is an Italian restaurant - pasta, risotto, pizza, etc. All menu items are very inexpensive.
'''La Befana''', 5-31-3 Daita (30 seconds walk from Shimokitazawa West Exit), ''03''-3411-9500, 12-2PM and 5:30-10:30PM daily. Good pizza from wood-fired stone oven, something you will be missing if you are staying for a long time in Japan. The lunch menu (available 11:30-13:30) is excellent.
'''Mother''', Daizawa 5-36-14 (''3 min from Shimokitazawa South Exit, on the corner just before Gyoza-no-Osho''), ''03''-3421-9519. Multi-ethnic food and an interesting selection of imported beers, in a cave-like, Gaudi-inspired setting. Make sure you have time to kill, as the kitchen works at a rather leisurely pace.
'''Patisserie NAOKI''', Komazawa 1-4-12 1F, ''03''-3422-3167.
'''Setagaya''', Nozawa 2-1-2 1F, ''03''-3418-6938, 11AM-2:30 PM and 6:00PM-3:00AM (closed Thursdays). A famous ramen restaurant.
'''Sunday Brunch''', Kitazawa 2-29-2 2F, ''03''-5453-3366, [http://www.sundaybrunch.co.jp/index.html]. Sunday Brunch is a cafe. Their French toast is very tasty.
'''Trocadero''', Kitazawa 3-30-3 (''North exit''), ''03''-3476-1991. Trocadero is an authentic French bistro. How authentic? The entire store was brought over from France.
'''31 Ice Cream''' Ice cream shop that has many flavors. Discounts on the 31st of each month.
mois cafe. 3-3421-184. itazawa2-21-26. 3-3421-1844. ttp://www.renovationplanning.co.jp/mois/index.html. There are season menu, and very tasty.
Village Vanguard. sagayakita 2-13-4. ttp://www.village-v.co.jp/diner/. 1:30AM_`2:00AM. 60yen_`. Hamburger shop that has many kind of Hamburgers. It's very delicious.
Drink
'''Kura Kura''' (______), 2-20-19 Kitazawa (''One minute walk from Shimokitazawa station south exit''), ''03''-5433-2323, Tu-Fr 5:00-11:30PM; Sa-Su 4:00-11:30PM; closed Monday, [http://www.j-beer.com/kurakura/]. Kura Kura has an excellent selection of beers from Japanese microbreweries served on tap, such as Swan Lake in Niigata and Sanktgallen in Kanagawa. They also have a wide selection of bottled beers, such as offerings from Baird Brewing Company in Shizuoka and Fuji Sakura Kogen in Yamanashi. Some food is also served—try the sausage and beer sampler set for ¥1000.
'''Ushi-Tora''', 2-9-3 Kitazawa, ''03''-3485-9090, 5PM-4AM daily, [http://ushitora.jp/] (in Japanese). Seemingly in direct competition to Kura Kura, Ushi-Tora also offers a wide selection of Japanese and US microbrews on tap. Opened 2006.
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