'''Sumida-ku''' (_n_c__, Sumida Ward) lies east of central Tokyo. It is home to a famous cherry blossom viewing area (along the Sumida River near Asakusa Station) in spring, the Sumida River Fireworks Festival (Hanabi Matsuri) in summer, and Tokyo's main sumo stadium (Ryogoku Kokugikan) where tournaments are held three times a year.
The area is considered "shitamachi" (roughly translated as "old town"), though it has recently become a kind of bedroom community for Tokyoites, which has meant the building of many high-rise apartment buildings. Despite the boom in construction, the area retains its pre-WWII charm, with many small businesses and small neighborhood feel to it.
The '''Ry?goku''' (____) neighborhood, in the southwest portion of the ward, is nearly synonymous with '''sum? wrestling''', one of Japan's most famous sports, where the human behemoths grapple and attempt to hoist each other out of the ring. The '''Edo-Tokyo Museum''', an excellent and large museum on the history of Tokyo, is here, as well as a collection of quirky special-interest museums.
Get in
The '''JR Sobu Line''' (local service) runs east-west through Sumida, connecting to the Yamanote line across the river in Akihabara. Via subway, the '''Toei Oedo Line''' loops past the western edge of the ward with connections to both Ueno in the north and Shiodome to the south. On both lines, Ryogoku Station is the closest connection to all of the ward's main attractions.
See & Do
Sumo
Ry?goku Kokugikan. ______Z__. -3-28 Yokoami. 3-3623-5111 (Japanese). ttp://www.sumo.or.jp/eng/. 35.69694. 39.79333. The largest sumo arena in Japan with a capacity for 10,000 spectators, this is where grand tournaments or ''basho'' are held in January, May and September, starting on the second Sunday of the month. These tournaments last for 15 days, and are filled with ceremony and ritual which observe strict hierarchies not just for the wrestlers, but also for the referees and callers. The competition each day begins around 9:00 AM with the amateurs, and from there, wrestlers compete in progressing order of seniority. The professional wrestlers start around 2:35 PM, but the excitement begins when the top division ''makuuchi'' enter the ring in the ''dohyo-iri'' ceremony at 3:50 PM. The tournament culminates when the high-rank ''yokuzuna'' and ''ozeki'' have their bouts, around 6:00 PM. If you have seats far from the ring, but arrive early, it is possible to borrow some seats close to the ring until mid-afternoon, when most spectators begin to arrive. English pamphlets describing the day's program and sumo in general are available. Food is available inside, at somewhat inflated prices. There are now signs prohibiting you from bringing in outside food and drink, but it seems that enforcement is spotty. Advance-booking Western-style chairs on the second floor are ¥3,600, 4,900 and 8,400; Japanese-style box seats on the first floor are ¥9,200, 10,300 and 11,300. These can be purchased at ticket outlets and convenience stores, starting the month before the match. You can buy unsold seats on the day of the tournament for ¥2,100, but only at the Kokugikan box office.
:*<do name="Sumo Museum" alt="" address="first floor of the Ryogoku Kokugikan" directions="" phone="03-3622-0366 (Japanese)" url="http://www.sumo.or.jp/eng/museum/" hours="10:00 AM - 4:30 PM weekdays only; closed weekends and holidays" price="Free" lat="" long="">A small, quirky museum tucked inside the arena's first floor, dedicated to the history of sumo, particularly artifacts and ceremonial clothing — unfortunately, almost entirely in Japanese only. The collection rotates several times a year. During sumo tournaments, it is open daily, but only to tournament ticketholders.</do>
Instead of peering at wrestlers through binoculars from the cheap seats at Kokugikan, you can see sumo up close and personal by visiting a '''sumo stable''' (''beya'') to watch the morning training, generally held from 6:00 AM to 10:00 AM daily (and no, you don't have to stick around for the whole time). Advance arrangements will be necessary, preferably with the help of a Japanese speaker, and a "donation" of around ¥1,500 is expected. While watching the training, keep quiet and do not take flash photos. Note that many stables — particularly those with very famous wrestlers — do not permit visits.
* '''Isenoumi Stable''' [http://omochi.cup.com/isenoumi/index-e.html] has an informative (although increasingly outdated) English home page and is happy to arrange visits.
Sumo Photo Museum. __o___^______. -13-2 Ryogoku. 3-3631-2150. Open Tuesday only, but every day during sumo tournaments.
Museums
Edo-Tokyo Museum. ]____________ Edo-T?ky?-hakubutsukan. -4-1 Yokoami. ear subway exits A3/A4. 3-3626-9974. ttp://www.edo-tokyo-museum.or.jp/english/. :30 AM-5:30 PM Tue-Sun; Saturdays until 7:30 PM. yen;600. One of the best museums in Tokyo, and that's saying something, this bizarre multi-story edifice suspended in midair and bearing not a small resemblance to a Star Wars Imperial Walker (meant to be a replica of an old raised warehouse) covers the history of the metropolis, starting from 1590 when it was selected as Japan's new capital Edo, all the way through the Kanto earthquake and firebombings of World War II. The museum is built with the latest technology including life-size replicas of entire buildings and the Nihombashi Bridge. Free, informative tours are available in several languages, depending on which volunteers are around; audio guides in several languages always available.
<do name="Paulownia Wood Furniture Museum" alt="__________ kiri no hakubutsukan" address="4-1-3 Ryogoku" directions="" phone="03-3632-0341" url="" hours="10:00 AM to 6:00 PM, closed Wednesday" price="" lat="" long=""></do>
<do name="Ryogoku Fireworks Museum" alt="______________" address="2-10-8 Ryogoku" directions="" phone="03-5608-6181" url="" hours="Noon to 4:00 PM Thu, Fri, Sat. Open everyday in July and August" price="Free" lat="" long=""></do>
<do name="Tabi (Japanese socks) Museum" alt="__________ tabi shiryokan" address="1-9-3 Midori" directions="" phone="03-3631-0092" url="" hours="9:00 AM to 5:00 PM, closed Sunday" price="" lat="" long=""></do>
Buy
Eat
While in sumo town the thing to do is eat sumo food, namely the hearty '''chanko-nabe''' (__________) stew that forms the bulk of a ''rikishi'' 's diet. Many a sumo wrestler sets up a ''chanko'' restaurant when they retire, and many of those establishments can be found here. Be warned that this is usually fairly expensive, with sets starting around ¥2,500 for two.
Drink
'''Popeye Beer Club''' 2-18-7 Ryogoku (3633-2120). 5:00 PM to 1:00 AM, until 2:00 AM on Sat. Closed Sun. [http://www.40beersontap.com/]. Popeye's is arguably the best place in Tokyo, if not the world, to try Japanese microbrews. There are 40 beers on tap, which cover the full range of beers from familiar ales to barley wines and rauchbiers. The food menu is interesting, try the avocado and blue cheese. English menus are available. Pints of beer are around ¥900, half pints and a sampler set are available.
Sleep
Accommodations are few, especially for non-Japanese speakers. Sleeping elsewhere in Tokyo and taking the train in for the day is the typical approach.
Contact